Uaz hunter hand-out repair do it yourself

I bought myself a new UAZ, and immediately I was annoyed by the strong bounce of the hand-out levers. A man I knew gave me a way.

The bottom line is as follows. The spur gear (let's call it pi2) designed to transfer rotation to the front axle (located on the middle shaft of the transfer case) does not completely disengage from the upper rear gear (the secondary shaft of the transfer case, let's call it pi1) when the “front axle” lever on the transfer case is off. It continues to rotate idle, engaging the edge of the teeth of the pi1 gear due to the fact that the pi1 gear is a few millimeters wider. Since the motor shaft rotates unevenly (acceleration - deceleration after each ignition), the teeth of these two gears, without load, beat against each other and rattle. The engagement is made in order to:

• Oil rose from the bottom of the dispenser and the upper bearings were lubricated.
• Since the pi2 gear rotates at about the same speed as the front axle drive gear, the front axle engages silently.

So, the man advised to cut the butt end (only the toothed part facing the center of the transfer case) of the pi1 gear on a lathe by those very few millimeters, so that these gears mesh only when the front axle is turned on. As a result, we have:

• When driving with the front axle off, NOTHING is spinning in the transfer case, except for the upper coupled shaft.
• In order for the bearings to be lubricated, much more oil must be poured (more on this below).

When I cut the handout in half, the idea came to move the rework technology towards simplification. I did not disassemble the handout completely. I took a powerful grinder (2 kw) with a thick (grinding) disc, fixed it with bricks on the ground so that the axis of rotation of the disc was perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the secondary shaft, which remained on the bearings in the rear cover of the transfer case, turned it on and began to push the gears pi1 to the teeth while rotating the gear with your hand (behind the hand brake drum). Periodically controlled the process (the middle shaft, together with the pi2 gear, also remained in the back cover) so as not to grind off the excess. It turned out perfectly smoothly (I don't remember how much I grinded, but about 5 - 8 mm). Then he washed it with diesel fuel, collected the distributor.

I drew attention to the fact that now there should be more oil, just at the level of the bypass hole between the transfer case and the gearbox (there is such a hole, it is slightly higher than the filler plugs). I fill in the oil and control its level like this: I put the UAZ on a hill at an angle of about 25 degrees (face up) and slowly fill it through the TRANSMISSION plug until it runs back. Now you need to fill in about four liters of oil.

It turned out to be an ABSOLUTELY SILENT razdatka, you drive like on a “Volga”. THE MOST IMPORTANT MINUS - the front axle lever can now be engaged at a speed of no more than 30 km / h. But if it is slower, then everything turns on perfectly.

The transfer case helps distribute engine torque to multiple drives at the same time.

You can do the repair of the UAZ handout box with your own hands, it is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, and besides, you will be able to save on paying for the services of a car service master.

Before starting repairs, of course, it is necessary to find out the cause of the malfunction.

1. There is a lot of noise in the transfer case. This can be the result of loosening the nuts that connect the transfer case to the transmission, or loosening the bolts on the bearing caps.The list of reasons includes wear of the bearings or gears themselves, poor-quality or unsuitable oil, or its low level.
2. Selection and gear shifting poorly. This is usually due to a binding of the clutch on the splines of the hub or front drive shafts. Or, alternatively, the gear selector is deformed.
3. The transmission shuts down spontaneously while the vehicle is in motion. Gear teeth may be worn out. Also, the shutdown can be affected by an increase in the gap in the spline connection or wear of the retainer parts.
4. Oil leaks. Often the problem is caused by wear or mechanical damage to the gaskets, loosening of the nuts on the cover, wear of the oil seals or o-rings of the actuator stems.

The solution to all these problems is either repair or replacement of faulty parts. In some cases, it will be enough just to tighten the nuts or add oil.

Transfer case repair takes place in several stages.

1. Removing and disassembling the box.
2. Troubleshooting.
3. Eliminate these faults by replacing the part or repairing it.
4. Collecting and placing the box in place.

To remove the box and disassemble the distribution box for the UAZ 469, you need to proceed as follows:

• drive the car into the inspection pit;
• lower the parking brake lever, and put the gear levers and transfer cases in neutral;
• then the casing and cladding are unscrewed one by one, the handles and covers are removed, all wires are disconnected.

Before you start disassembling the device, you must wash it and drain all the oil. For the convenience of parsing, it is better to use a special stand where the distributor can be fixed.

When disassembling the differential, it is advisable to note the relative position of the driven gear mounting bolts on its housing, so that later it will be easier to put everything into place.

Before inspection, all parts must be brushed and rinsed.

The UAZ distribution box is assembled in the reverse order to the one in which it was dismantled, and before installing the unit in place, check its operation at the stand. The function must be perfect, the assembly correct and it is important that the oil does not leak. The tests are carried out first in a higher gear, then in a smaller one.

Under load, they check the operation in the second mode, on the rest - without load. The serviceability of the differential is checked in the first mode, while gradually decelerating until it stops completely.

With proper repair and timely replacement of all faulty components of the distribution box, the UAZ will work without jamming, knocking and noise, and the oil will not leak out!

• Features of the UAZ transfer case, diagnostics and repair of the transfer case
• Transfer case UAZ, device
• How to check the handout
• Causes of dispenser malfunction and their elimination
• Transfer case repair
• How to disassemble the transfer case UAZ

The distribution box for UAZ is responsible for the distribution of torque from the car engine to all drive mechanisms, and also allows you to increase the number of gears in the transmission. Moreover, the transfer case is capable of increasing torque when driving on poor road surfaces and is an essential attribute of any 4WD vehicle.

The UAZ transfer case device is a two-stage design without an center differential and with a neutral gear, as well as with a disabled front axle. The design includes a cast-iron crankcase with a cover, which is attached to the rear wall of the gearbox through the holes in the support plate. A parking brake mechanism is also attached to the rear of the transfer case.

The drive, intermediate shafts and drive shafts of the rear and front axles are located in the crankcase, on bearings, between which the speedometer drive gear is located. The top of the transfer case is equipped with a hatch, which is closed with a lid.

It is important to understand how the handout control mechanism works.So, it consists of two rods with forks, which are attached to the cover. These forks lead to the drive gear and the front axle engagement gear. Also, two control levers are connected to the forks, by means of movable rods and levers. There is also a special locking ball that does not allow you to turn on a downshift when the front axle is disabled.

When direct drive is engaged, the drive gear is displaced into the gear bore of the rear axle shaft, thus the torque is transmitted directly.

When the downshift is engaged, the drive gear is displaced in such a way that the torque is transmitted to the intermediate shaft and to both gears of the axle drive shafts. Do not forget that you can only engage a downshift after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

In order for the UAZ transfer case to work reliably and for a long time, it is necessary not only to regularly check it, but also to update it. Like any other part of the car, the transfer case requires some maintenance. The first thing to do is check the oil level in the dispenser.

It is also necessary to regularly check the integrity of the fasteners on which the distributor is held. If you notice that the oil is leaking, you need to quickly find the source of the problem and replace the plug, gasket, or the like.

In this section, we will tell you why the transfer case for UAZ may not work, what malfunctions drivers face, why breakdowns occur and, most importantly, how to fix them.

Increased noise in the transfer case. This may be due to bearing wear caused by insufficient lubrication or contamination of the lubricant, or gear tooth wear caused by loose nuts and bolts. The noise can be eliminated by replacing worn parts, adding oil or cleaning it. If the noise does not disappear, the transfer case will have to be disassembled and the cause of the problem will have to be studied in more detail.

Complicated gear shifting. The reasons for this inconvenience can be jamming in control mechanisms, contamination or corrosion of parts, nicks in the teeth, or unequal tire swing radius. In order to fix the problem, you will need to clean the control mechanisms, replace unusable parts and clean out nicks.

While the vehicle is in motion, the gears are switched off by themselves. Wear of the gear teeth, incomplete engagement of the gear due to deformation of parts or wear of the bearings, which leads to misalignment of the shafts, can provoke the disengagement of the gear. To fix the problem, it is necessary to replace worn gears and bearings, as well as fix or replace deformed parts and clean out nicks.

Oil leak. Oil can leak for many reasons. The most common of them are: loosening of fasteners, wear of gaskets and bearing caps, wear of oil seals, as well as microcracks in the body of the part. As in previous cases, it is necessary to replace all worn out consumables and tighten all nuts and bolts well.

Before carrying out the repair of the RK UAZ with your own hands, it is important to see what kind of box you have, synchronized or not: the set of tools required for the repair will depend on this. In general, the repair of the transfer case at the UAZ is the replacement of worn out parts or the tightening of all nuts, bolts and fasteners. That is why the dismantling and assembly of the box are important processes. With proper disassembly and assembly, you will be able to carry out a quick and high-quality repair of the unit. The first stage is disassembly and troubleshooting, the second stage is the separation of the RK from the checkpoint and the third stage is the repair itself.

It is important to remember that the following components are subject to repair or replacement:

1. Oil seals. They must be changed when disassembling the handout, regardless of whether they are worn out or not;
2. Gears. These parts cannot be repaired, therefore, if they are out of order, be sure to replace the gears.Otherwise, the unit may jam;
3. Forks and Spitz These components are also best replaced if you find wear or tear on them.
4. Bearings. If you find that the bearings are chipped, cracked or broken, be sure to replace the deformed part.
5. Protective case. This part of the device must also be safe and sound, without cracks or gaps.

Before proceeding with dismantling, we strongly advise you to study the description of the UAZ distribution box, in many ways it will answer your questions and greatly simplify the repair process.

Disassembly of the transfer case should be carried out in the following order:

1. Place the car in the inspection pit and provide access to the necessary parts;
2. The dismantling process can only be started when the gearbox and junction box levers are in neutral;
3. Drain the oil completely from the box;
4. Unscrew all bolts and nuts, remove the cover and trim of the part, and also disconnect the wires that fit the device.

After completing these steps, you can safely detect problems and repair the UAZ distributor.

After the transfer case of the UAZ has been fully investigated and a high-quality repair has been carried out, the unit must be installed back. Assembly takes place in the same way as disassembly, only in reverse order. The mechanism is installed in place, all bolts and nuts are carefully tightened, the fasteners are checked, after which oil is poured to a certain level. Remember that the oil must be filled with a new one. As soon as all the procedures have been done, check the correct functioning of the unit. The check of the UAZ “Patriot” distributor takes place in the second mode under load, in other cases the check can be carried out without load.

So, timely response to the slightest changes in the work of the distributor, regular maintenance and respect for the car will help you eliminate minor problems in time and prevent a critical situation on the road. Do not forget that a reliable assistant in disassembling, repairing and assembling the part will be the UAZ distribution diagram, which clearly indicates all the connectors, inputs and outputs.

Removing the transfer case

We work together on a viewing ditch or a lift.

SEQUENCING
We drain the oil from the transfer case.

Removing the left and right floor pads
Disconnect the speedometer drive from the transfer case
Remove the front and rear propeller shafts

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the front pipe clamp to the gearbox bracket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the two bracket mounting bolts ...

Disconnect the lugs of the wires from the parking brake indicator switch.

Using two “19” keys, loosen the tightening of the switch adjusting nuts.

Remove the rubber buffer of the switch.

After unscrewing the nut, remove the switch.

Disconnect the adjusting fork from the parking brake lever and, by unscrewing two bolts, remove the brake lever along with the rods

Holding the eight bolts securing the cross member with a “17” wrench, turn off their nuts with the “19” head.

Using the "17" key, unscrew the two bolts securing the transfer case to the gearbox on the right side ...

... and with a 19 key, two nuts on the left side.

Tapping a hammer across a block of wood ..

… And pressing out with a mounting paddle, remove the transfer case.

Remove the spacer washer.

Install the transfer case in reverse order:
we replace the gasket between the transfer case and the gearbox, applying a layer of sealant to the gasket.
We turn on the direct gear in the transfer case with a lever, directing the drive gear by hand through the hole in the crankcase.
For ease of installation:

with the key "12" we unscrew the four bolts of the switching mechanism.

Install the intermediate washer. Sealant "glue" the gasket to the gearbox.
Turning the parking brake drum, we put the transfer case on the studs and the secondary shaft of the gearbox. We bait the bolts and nuts of the transfer case. Tightening the bolts and nuts evenly, we achieve the pressing of the outer ring of the bearing into the socket of the transfer case and the tight fit of the units to each other.
Install the removed parts in reverse order.
Fill the transmission oil into the transfer case

Looseness of the nuts of the connection between the transfer case and the gearbox or the bolts of the bearing caps

Bearing wear
Insufficient lubrication level; grease is dirty or fie matches the recommended grease chart

Replace worn parts

Tighten all bolts and nuts. If after this the noise does not stop, disassemble the transfer case and eliminate the malfunction Replace worn bearings Change oil or add. The level should be at the edge of the filling hole and fie lower than 5 mm from it

Jamming in the control mechanisms and gear shifting of the transfer case from bent parts, contamination or corrosion
Jamming in the spline connection of the drive and intermediate shafts

Nickels on the teeth of the small rim of the drive gear and on the inner tooth of the rear axle drive shaft due to engagement with impacts
Fit tires with equal wear. Bring the tire pressure to the recommended

Clean controls and gearshift mechanisms, lubricate or repair. Replace defective parts
Remove burrs, nicks, galls or replace parts

If removing nicks and burrs does not improve the inclusions, the parts should be replaced.

Bearing wear causing misalignment of shafts
Increased clearance in the spline connection of the gear with the shaft

11incomplete engagement of the gear due to the bent parts of the shifting mechanism or nicks on the gears and splines
The work of the retainer is weakened due to wear of parts or loss of spring elasticity

Replace worn gears Replace worn bearings
Match the gear along the splines of the shaft to ensure the minimum clearance during free movement

Replace, if it is impossible to fix, bent parts, clean out nicks, ensure full engagement of gears
Replace defective parts

Loose nuts and bolts securing the bearing caps, crankcase halves and connecting the transfer case to the gearbox
Worn or damaged transfer case shaft seals

Cracks in body parts

Lost or damaged gear shift rod plugs and front intermediate shaft bearing seat plugs

Replace gaskets
Tighten all bolts and nuts where leaks are

Replace oil seals Replace parts
Replace the plugs and stamp in the socket

The ingress of solid particles on the working surfaces of the bearings, causing the destruction of the cage and rings
Seizure of the double-row bearing of the drive shaft (output shaft of the gearbox) of the transfer case

Check the oil level according to the instructions in the vehicle operating instructions
Monitor the purity of the oil, replace it in a timely manner and flush the box

After disassembly and flushing, the bearing must be lubricated with any liquid oil before being installed in the assembly.

Thank you for the video! such an event will be held soon.

We wish you good health and look forward to continuing with impatience!

in helical, a damper is placed inside the gear of the rear axle shaft, for some reason it is not in the spur. strange. thanks for the video

Thank you, we are waiting for the modernization of the bridge. Guys, don't be greedy! Go to the autoditch's website and make financial assistance to the project. Send as much as you can. There are webmoney and payment by Visa and Mastercard cards.

Vasily is great. Pins or a rubber damper must be placed in the rear axle shaft so that the low / high gear does not tighten inward. look at the taper there. otherwise the fork will eat.

Comment.When you install covers with oil seals, the flange itself, along which the edge of the oil seal walks, is necessarily clamped with a nut with the right moment, then slightly tighten the cover bolts - turn the flange from side to side, while the oil seal itself in the cover is centered relative to the flange and then already evenly tighten the oil seal cover bolts. This sequence is very important, the oil seal will not sweat and leak. If you do as you have shown, there are no centering pins on the cover, and in 100% of cases it is not possible to align it evenly without a flange. Sweating guaranteed!

Thanks for the video. It looks like this UAZ is restoring for itself, not for someone else.

Vasily, won't a ball bearing with a metal cage instead of plastic improve the situation? You did a good job with the rollers, I had the same thought, only I thought to make the bead with an electrode on cast iron with dots, then I thought that you could overheat it by accident ..

Thank you so much for your insightful lessons. I have a question, which will be more reliable 2-synchronous or 4-synchronous gearbox UAZ 469. Thank you in advance.

as always sensibly and on the shelves. thank you

I do not have the opportunity to run to the turner for adjustment five times - the stop under the gear and the cuts on the rods will solve this problem.

Thank you for the video! Everything is clear, clear, intelligible.

Why didn't I tell you about the principle of the device.

Vasily, what a pity, honestly, that you are not the Chief Designer (Engineer) of the UAZ. How much more reliable, durable and more comfortable these cars could be thanks to you.

Vasily hello! I have a question for you not on the topic of this video, you will excuse me. Now the collecting head on the engine 2108 looked with interest at your recommendations, but I have such a problem - the head 21083 that was on the engine became unusable. A 76 mm liner block, I found a head marked 21081 with a camshaft 2108. Is it possible to put this head or is there something that does not allow its installation. Best regards, Vladimir

put a hard stop - damper, welded on and adjusted the forks - accuracy up to mm, new bearings, and now I'll go to disassemble on a new one - - my replacement handout

Thanks v for interesting lessons from Balgaria

Fuck. How detailed and understandable. Never, and neither where, nor anything like it, have I seen. It’s lucky someone who has such a master with GOLDEN HANDS in the city. That would be so told about the Niva Vaz 2121 handout, I would be very grateful (and not only me). Thank you so much for the excellent video, and of course I like it. Good luck.

The video is super. All the time racking his brains and thinking how to eliminate the lyuft. Matyukatsya and scolded the designers for the balls. And you dear Vasily decided and showed everything. Thank you for the video and I wish you that the possibilities always coincide with the desires and health allows you to bring them to life.

One caveat!))) It is better to flatten the big plug after assembling the halves. The separator is plastic and fragile at the bearing under the plug. Misalignment + small force and end of bearing! Thank you for the video Vasily! All the best and health!

I have roller bearings on the helical razdatka from the factory, now everything is reliable.

Thank you for your work for the good of many. Question: Are the thrust loads transmitted from the front axle gimbal during the suspension travel? I don't see any other options. the rest are all radial for which the corresponding bearings are designed. Is it not weaker that the radial thrust bearings hold precisely the radial load? and it would not be more expedient to replace ball with roller (not persistent)

A very good video and a very useful modification - tapered bearings. I have a Nissan Navara and ball bearings (703) in the razdatka exit to the front cardan, more than 40,000 km are not nursed. Consideration should be given to installing tapered bearings. Here they wrote about the centering of the oil seals, well, I will add that during installation, you need to put (smear) a grease into the working edge of the oil seal. If put on a dry oil seal, it will burn out quickly.Well, the spring in the oil seal can be shortened immediately by 5-6 mm. It is controversial, but this option takes longer to nurse.

Vasily, is the razdatka already in operation? How did she show herself?

Yes, everything is fine, but there is one comment regarding the gear that meshes with the drive gear. By adjusting the distance, nothing can be done, over time it will be pulled inside the drive gear and the lowering will start flying out again. I got out of the situation by grinding a washer (4mm, I don't think I remember anymore), put it inside the leading one and grabbed it with several welding points. The gear that goes simply rests against this washer. You can also cut this washer out of oil-resistant rubber by fitting it tightly there.

I service the shift fork rollers before pressing. And the end caps - then the sealant is not needed. Video - CLASS.

Hello Vasily. Why are different bearings 306 and 307 used when retrofitting a transfer case?

Thank you for such a detailed video! But since this is too laborious a question arose. What if you take 2 needle bearings and try to grind the outer race under the circlip in one? I think it will be more reliable than ball and a little easier. I would like to receive an answer from you. Thanks in advance!

Late, you threw off a video clip about bearings, I have this handout on my upgraded Willys, a 139 cm propeller shaft without a suspended straight line and also homemade, and these bearings fail almost every year, and I also did almost the same only without turning, took a bar of 10x10 mm, cut it, put it between the clips, inserted a bushing and welded it with a semiautomatic device, it looked like a squirrel wheel, although the speedometer gear had to be removed, since I had this transfer case through the plate docked with the GAZ 24 gearbox and there is for the speedometer (it still does not show correctly) since the gearbox of the axles from GAZ-21 and the rubber is 15 and all this has been working since 2003 in difficult hunting and fishing conditions at the distributor I put one lever for all functions

Vasily, he assembled the box, but there is no neutral, you release the clutch, and the car stalls. What could be the matter?

Thank you. Looked with such interest, like a detective!))) But for some reason not a word was said about the breather of the distributor. And this is a small, but essential detail. Or am I missing something? All the best!

it is possible to buy a restored distribution box from you and what is the price

This is not why it knocks out the lowered one. When the low one is on, the floating gear rotates the flush shaft. And the backlash of the rear axle shaft does not matter. It knocks out the reduced gearbox secondary shaft backlash (it is also the primary shaft of the RK at the UAZ monoblock). For example, in a GAZ-66 distributor, the shafts are fixed relative to each other with a needle bearing, and there is no such problem. As a hint for further improvement of the RK - insert the gearbox shaft into the rear axle shaft through a needle bearing.

Good day. And how is the razdatka after the alterations? I just after all the alterations that I did, the question arose about the razdatka, since it rattles me. And I want to show it as shown in your video

Thank you for the good advice. The other day I ditched the rear axle, but before that I was repairing the handbrake and noticed the backlash of the transfer case shank. I thought that this unit is arranged in the same way as in the shanks of the axle gearboxes, but when removing the cover I was surprised to find a 306 ball bearing. Why then I thought that replacing the bearings alone would not solve the problem, but here is your video and a simple solution. Cool! And about gaskets, just a sealant without paper and poronite, no less problems?

The design of the UAZ Patriot car has a device such as a transfer case. Its main purpose is the ability to transmit and distribute torque to both axles of the all-wheel drive UAZ Patriot SUV. More details about the transfer case on the UAZ Patriot SUV can be found in this material (link).Today we will pay attention to the question of how its repair is carried out and what are the main units subject to these procedures.

Over time, the transfer case of the UAZ Patriot SUV breaks down and requires repairs, which you can completely freely carry out on your own if you know the technology. This material will tell you about what types of malfunctions can occur in the transfer case on the UAZ Patriot SUV and how you can fix them yourself.

On a UAZ Patriot RK car, it is installed combined with a gearbox, and separately this unit has the following form.

The most popular type of malfunction of the RK off-road vehicle UAZ Patriot is the presence of extraneous noise, which can only increase over time. Noise can be caused by the following factors:

1. Loosening of the nut connectors connecting the gearbox with the RK. The reason for their weakening is the vibration and rattling of these units, therefore, when tightening the nuts, a grover must be used.
2. Worn device bearings. The design of this mechanism contains bearings that eventually deteriorate and must be replaced.
3. Gear wear. The gears of the RK of the UAZ Patriot SUV wear out due to careless use of the unit, as well as in the case of the use of low-quality types of lubricants. Untimely oil change in the RK also accelerates gear wear.
4. If, during the inclusion of a low gear, it spontaneously knocks out (on a mechanically controlled RC), then this indicates wear of the gear teeth. The teeth together with the gear must be replaced.
5. If an oil leak is detected from the transfer case on the UAZ Patriot, then this indicates a faulty operation of the oil seals. Often, over time, the oil seal dries up, loses its sealing properties and then the process of oil leakage begins. Oil leakage can be eliminated by replacing the damaged oil seal.

Of all the above set of faults on the UAZ Patriot SUV, repairs can only be carried out by replacing faulty parts. However, if the nuts are loosened, tighten them all the way and, if no growers are available, install them. What constitutes a repair, we will consider further.

Before proceeding with the repair of the RK on an SUV, it must be dismantled. The box is repaired in stages. At the first stage, the box is dismantled and the main causes of malfunctions are identified. At the second stage, the RK is disassembled, which is the disconnection of the mechanism from the checkpoint. At the third stage, one or another part of the unit is repaired. So, what is the dismantling of the RC on a car, we will consider further:

1. First, you need to install the machine on the inspection pit in order to be able to access the unit.
2. The gearbox and junction box levers must be set to the neutral position and only after that you can start the dismantling process.
3. The next step is to drain the oil from the gearbox and gearbox.
4. All bolted connections can now be unscrewed. The casing and lining of the unit are being removed. Also, wires suitable for the device must be removed.

At the stage of disassembling the RK, it should be cleaned of dirt and oil, and only then disassemble.

So, after the RK was removed from the UAZ Patriot SUV and disassembled, you can proceed to troubleshooting and replacing worn parts.

The following devices and mechanisms of the UAZ Patriot SUV handout structure are subject to repair:

After carrying out repair work with your own hands, the transfer case should be assembled in the reverse order of disassembly and removal. The mechanism is installed in place, filled with oil to a certain level and a check is carried out for proper functioning.

For your information! After repair, it is better to replace the oil with a new one, even if at the same time its production has not reached 60 thousand kilometers.

The transfer case for the UAZ Patriot is checked under load, but only in the second mode, and all the rest are checked without load. If the repairs are carried out in a timely manner and the faulty part is eliminated, then the device will serve for many years and will not give a reason for its replacement as a whole.

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