Uaz do-it-yourself repair gearbox

In detail: do-it-yourself uaz gearbox repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If you are the owner of a UAZ and there are suspicions about the failure of the gearbox, then you must definitely take on the repair. The unit fails when the driver has to hold the gearshift lever on the move, when they begin to shift by themselves (to prevent this, the drivers tie them up with ropes). Squeaks are sometimes heard.

To get acquainted with the repair technology, read about the repair of the UAZ 452 gearbox with your own hands. First, you need to determine the type of UAZ box that is on the car. Despite the difference between car models, the same transfer cases are installed on them. Therefore, we can assume that repairs are carried out in almost the same way. This will require a set of keys, some tools and aids (listed below).

On most car models of this type, both parts are one piece. The weight of such a unit reaches 75-82 kg, so you need an assistant. If the car being repaired has a safety cage, then you can use a hand winch to remove the UAZ 452 gearbox for repair on your own.

The car must be parked out of the blue, since later it will have to be moved 0.5 m forward or backward. First, drain the oil. Both boxes have a common volume, but the liquid drain plugs are separate. While the oil is pouring out, you need to remove the front seats and unscrew them, and then remove the halves of the hatch to the floor of the car. Next comes the turn of removing the speedometer rods.

When the oil has drained, screw the drain plugs back into place. There is a frame cross member under the hand brake drum, it must be removed. Disconnect the front axle clutches and unscrew the front universal joint. If you find weakness of the nuts on it, then you need to remove this part.

If the UAZ 3303 gearbox is being repaired, you need to be more careful with the couplings. The car is moved 0.5 m (in any direction) and the rear cardan is removed through the hatch. Disconnect the muffler from the distribution box and loosen the clamp on it. Then, one by one, details such as:

Video (click to play).

clutch pallet;
fasteners for the oiler from the input shaft (it is on the right, on the bell);
4 bolts that hold the clutch cover;
cylinder rod adjustment and fork.

The transfer box is wrapped with rope and hung. The following parts are removed:

pillow bolts;
nuts holding the bell box mount.

With these actions, the engine, when the UAZ 452 gearbox is repaired on its own, must be propped up with a jack. When the box is free, it is lowered and taken out from under the car. The levers must first be removed. The pins on the bell must be replaced with new ones.

If you need to repair the UAZ Patriot checkpoint, then it must be borne in mind that the location of the box and the bell is opposite there. This also applies to the position of the rods. But in general, the technology for repairing the UAZ 452 gearbox on its own is suitable for use.

Unscrew the bolts and nuts, disconnect the gearbox and its transfer case. A gasket reinforced with sealant is installed between them, so you will have to hit the bracket for attaching the assembly to the frame several times.

First you need to remove the input shaft cover and unscrew the left nut, which is located on it (see fig.). Now you need to remove its bearing. If it is out of order, it must be replaced. Its roller "brother" is installed inside the shaft, it also needs to be replaced. Then the circlip is removed from the secondary roll. Unscrew the double-row bearing stopper. The shaft must be knocked out and the part changed.

This is followed by the third gear clutch assembly. Copper synchronizers are replaced along with crackers.Then it is the turn of the reverse gear. Unscrew the intermediate shaft front bearing box. Do not hit it with a hammer or core: it is from silumin and may crack.

Be careful not to damage its rubber pad as it is difficult to reach. On the removed shaft, replace the gears and all bearings. After that, assemble the box in the reverse order. When the roller is installed on the input shaft, it is abundantly lubricated with Litol. All units and parts are put in place one by one so as not to be mistaken.

Loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts, remove them. The hand brake must be checked for operability, if necessary, it must be replaced. Remove all covers and replace the oil seals. Unscrew the drive of the speedometer rods and the breather (it must be replaced). The bearings are checked and replaced if necessary.

Transfer case assembly is done upside-down. These steps are repeated when working with other types of this car brand (including when repairing the UAZ Hunter gearbox). Install the fastener bracket to the frame. They put the transfer case on the parking brake drum and, holding the gear, lower it into place through the power take-off hatch.Before this, place a lock washer from the intermediate shaft. Tighten the bolts and nuts, put on the cover with levers and check the operation of all gears. They change the release bearing, remove the levers, drag the entire unit under the car and hang it on a rope. Slide the release bearing assembly onto the box and reinforce the spring. Then insert the input shaft and clutch. This is done as follows:

move the box up and down;

turn the engine by the flywheel;

put the knot in place;

fasten pillows.

Attach the oiler of the input shaft splines and the plug in place, put the speedometer drive, cardans, handbrake, covers in place. It is necessary to return the frame cross member to its place and fix the muffler bracket to the transfer case.Adjustment and adjustment of the hand brake, oil change are performed. If the UAZ Hunter checkpoint is being repaired, you may need not only these actions, but also the adjustment of the rods. Screw the hatch on the floor, put the seats. This completes the repair of the UAZ 452 checkpoint on its own. Image - Uaz do-it-yourself gearbox repair

To work you will need:

open-end wrenches from 10 to 22;
bearing puller;
screwdrivers (Phillips and flat);
platypuses (with curved noses and straight);
copper pin;
a piece of pipe as a handle for keys;
chisel and core;
hammer and assembly blade;
small cans for collecting nuts and screws;
socket wrenches 10 to 36;
lithol;
red sealant;
set of gaskets and retaining rings for the car.

In order to properly repair the UAZ 452 gearbox on your own, you must strictly adhere to the sequence of actions described above. Difficulties in repairing other models of this brand may be caused by a different arrangement of the main parts of the machine, for example, rods. The oil change must be carried out in accordance with the technical requirements for this type of vehicle.Do-it-yourself UAZ 469 checkpoint repair is a feasible task for a person who wants to save money. For other owners of UAZs (for example, UAZ loaf), all of the above can be taken into account and the UAZ gearbox can be repaired, taking into account some difference in details and the location of the rods.

The original article is on the site Thanks to Alexander Dorokhov for sending me a lot of pictures of his box. Using these pictures as an example, I wrote this article.This photo shows the cover with the shift forks. Visually, I didn't notice any wear on the forks! But be sure to move your hands forks. If they start to dangle on the rods, then it is necessary to unscrew the wire fixing them and tighten the bolts more tightly! So that visually they look great.
Image - Uaz do-it-yourself gearbox repair

Now looking inside the box. One can only breathe.Here you don't even need a dipstick to see how much the second gear gear is worn out by the end of the output shaft in the area of the coupling teeth. Ideally should be 0.2mm. On the one who worked, of course, a little more. But here you can clearly see that the gap is at least 3.5mm. Such a gear is only ejected. Because her coupling teeth will only grasp halfway. Compare the length of the teeth and the width of the backlash yourself.

When the input shaft is removed, inspect it. The synchronizer is no longer good for anything, since its guide teeth are clogged to dullness. The clutch teeth have already done a good job. From the bottom of the teeth, uniform strips of working are clearly visible. But from above, on the other hand, rust is clearly visible on the far half of the tooth. This suggests that the gear clutch, when the gas was released, became sideways or was squeezed out. So that the input shaft is ejected together with the synchronizer.

We take out the synchronizer sleeve with the hub. Visually. The 4th gear teeth at the clutch look great. Unfortunately, their lateral wear from the teeth of the input shaft is not visible?

I wonder if the retaining ring came out by itself? If so, then the retaining groove on the output shaft broke into a cone and the ring squeezed out of it under load. So you have to go to the turner and he will neatly straighten this red-hot groove with a very strong cutter. Behind the ring you can see a spacer sleeve or washer, whichever you want. It will be necessary to put a new bearing on the shaft at the turner, put the retaining ring back in the groove, and the turner will immediately grind you a new spacer washer. The washer must be so thick that it fits between the bearing and the retaining ring with a slight interference or no more than 0.1 mm in the red. Although it is possible the store sells new circlips and spacer sleeves of different thicknesses. In any case, for a land Rover, this is how it is done. But I hope the retaining ring has been removed.

Here, too, I see a kind of wear on the walls. If yes! That means you need to put a new lock washer of greater thickness. But, if the synchronizer hub also dangles on the shaft splines. It's best to change the shaft too! Although the splines look neat and there are no signs of wear. Most likely the shaft is in good condition.

Addition to the written:
The circlip itself can play along the shaft in the groove. The main thing is that when the gear of the third gear and the synchronizer clutch are mounted on the shaft, the gap between the retaining ring and the synchronizer clutch is minimal. That is, the larger the gap, the more the gear and the clutch dangle on the axle. Therefore, we are trying to ensure that all gears and couplings have the minimum possible backlash. Ideally between 0.1 and 0.2mm. Although I collected boxes in which this backlash was 0.5 mm. But the less the better. If the gap between the lock washer and the synchroniser hub is greater than a millimeter? You need to use a thicker lock washer. Or it is more difficult to act if the backlashes are not removed, because the gear of the third gear is new, and the end of the shaft to which it is pressed is already badly worn. It is necessary to grind this end a little on the shaft against which the gear is pressed. And put there a bronze washer 3.4mm thick. of such a thickness that she would select all the gears of the 3rd gear on the shaft and pulled the synchronizer sleeve up to the retaining ring.

The clutch and teeth facing the 3rd or 4th gear looks good. The edges of the teeth are intact. I do not observe oblique wear. But if the gears change, then the clutch automatically changes together with the hub. Although I would put this part together with the hub, just in case, in stock. And if the money is really not enough, then I would put it. If everything is correctly adjusted, nothing will dangle and the transmission has not been knocked out before. I don't see any crime. The main thing is that the hub fits snugly on the shaft.

The same goes for the hub.

The replacement synchronizer has blunt edges of the teeth.In this case, they will not slide to the side when the clutch teeth go through them, respectively, the gear lever will engage the gear with some difficulty.

The gear of the third gear has teeth clogged to a bluntness, and traces of chips are also visible. It will be difficult to turn on the third gear and even then every other time. She's not a tenant! Replacement only. The former owner obviously did not bother himself to wait until the synchronizers equalize the rotation speeds of the shafts. Moreover, Nigrol contributes to this.

And this is how she looks from behind. The spacer washer which stands behind is strongly worn out. It is necessary to buy a new washer, preferably fitting it in size. As a last resort, carve a new one out of bronze. On my Lada there is a bronze one. The main thing is that the gearwheel of the 3rd gear wobbled on the shaft no more than 0.2mm. And the copper bushing began to crumble. This means that the gear was simply dangling on the shaft. But she has a tolerance of 0.06 mm.

Now comes the tricky part. Yes, you can measure the inner diameter of the gear with an internal gauge or a dijetal caliper. Then measure the shaft neck, subtract one from the other and get the result. Unfortunately, this measuring tool is more expensive than a new shaft, and much more! Therefore, I can offer only two options.

1) The bushing on the new gear is still sized and you can hardly change anything here.

2) Now the way to check the runout of the shafts in the bushings. On fingers. And in the literal sense of the word. The human hand begins to feel the beating of parts in the region of 0.1 mm. Well, if you already feel the beating with a clear thud. This means that the beating is already in the region of 0.2mm. and more.

But the most important thing here is not the beating of the gear on the shaft, but how great is the walk of the gear on the shaft.

The gear should walk as little as possible from the 3rd-4th gear clutch and to the stop end on the shaft. Ideally 0.08. 0.2mm.

And the second gear is out of competition. It has developed to such an extent that the development has consumed the sharp edges of the coupling teeth. And this is about a millimeter. It means that the gear shifted on the secondary shaft at least 3.5 mm (second photo) with a tolerance of 0.2 mm. Such a must to the museum!

The teeth on the gear of the first gear are also clogged, so that the second gear will turn on will be very problematic.

The intermediate shaft gear had not beaten teeth and not beaten splines. As a rule, this is always the case. If something has not damaged the teeth of the intermediate shaft, then on the shaft, as a rule, only the bearings are changed. The exception is heavily damaged reverse gear teeth.

The teeth on the reverse gear are jammed. Quite a common defect. It also needs to be replaced, since the wear goes to the taper, the gear may start knocking out after some time. Take a closer look at the larger gear - you can see better from below.

The axle on which the reverse gear rotates looks good. I really don't remember ever changing it.

But the bearing needs to be changed since it is already producing. Roller bearings have the main feature: if the roller fell out of the cage, then the bearing has worn out itself.

Judging by the photos. The croutons were removed from the synchronizer clutch. Nothing surprising. With such a large backlash of the gears (along the shafts), the clutch crackers of the 3rd and 4th gears began to crawl out behind the synchronizer clutch when the gears were turned on. After that, they began to bulge outward under the influence of a spring, and as a result, it was impossible to turn off the gear. Precisely, so that this does not happen, I try to choose all the backlash on the shafts of the box and the inclusion forks when repairing.

Verdict. In the box, you need to change the gear 1,2,3, gears. Also replace the input shaft, all bearings, reverse gear. Not strictly necessary, but requires a hub and both synchronizers. If the new gears dangle on the old shaft more than 0.15mm.(The hand perfectly feels the knock above 0.1 mm.) This means that the secondary shaft should also be replaced.

Dismantling the gearshift mechanism
SEQUENCING

Use a narrow slotted screwdriver to knock out the plugs of the gear shift rods.

Using the "17" key, unscrew the plug-plug of the retainer socket.

Using pliers, remove the safety wire of the bolts securing the forks to the rods ...

... and turn off the three bolts with a 10 key.

We knock out the fork rod of the 1st-2nd gear with a beard together with the plug.

We take out the plug and stem.
In order not to confuse the rods, we immediately put the forks on them and fix them with bolts.
Similarly, we knock out the fork rod of III-IV gears), ...

The blocker pin is located in the middle rod.
Knocking out the rod of the reverse gear fork, ...

... take out the ball with a spring.

Using the "10" key, unscrew the three bolts securing the fuse cover.

We take out the ball with a spring (fuse holder).

Sinking the ball with a slotted screwdriver, insert the stem into the hole in the cover.

We put a fork on the stem, tapping on the end of the stem with a soft metal hammer, ...

... and fix it with a locking bolt, aligning the holes in the stem and forks.

Install the plunger into the channel between the reverse gear fork and the III – IV gears.
Similarly, we install the III – IV gears rod with a fork and the second plunger (between the III – IV and I – II gears).
We install the rod of I – II gears, a fork, a ball with a spring and a retainer plug.
Clamping the switching mechanism in a vice and installing a lever on it, we check the correct assembly and operation of the mechanism. The rods should be easy to move and clearly fixed.
Counter bolts of gear shift forks with safety wire.

Orient the oil deflector washer with a protrusion to the inner ring of the bearing.

The bearings are pressed onto the shaft with a piece of pipe of a suitable length and corresponding diameter.
We carry out further assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order, while degreasing the gaskets and bolts of the crankcase covers and applying sealant to them.
We check the gear shift on the assembled box by turning its shafts by hand. Having installed the gearbox on the car and filled with oil, we check its operation in motion. Transmissions should turn on clearly, without jamming and noise. At the same time, make sure that the gears are fully engaged.

ATTENTION
The lever travel when engaging the first gear in a gearbox with synchronizers only in III-IV gears is 2.5 times greater than when engaging the second gear. Failure to engage the first gear causes rapid wear and destruction of the gears.

Yesterday there was such a situation: when the car was moving, there was a crackling and all transmissions stopped working. That is, when you turn on any gear and try to get under way, there is a crunch of gears, and the car does not move. Few people undertake to make these machines, and those who do it have a queue. I'll have to do it myself.

Now I will unscrew the cardan and remove the gearbox. I will try to repair it myself. Unscrewed the box mounting bolts: on one side 2 bolts; on the other side 2 bolts. Put down the pallet. Now I will try to shoot it. So she sagged. That's it, the box is removed. Now I will pull it out and examine it.

I took off the box, now I will disconnect it from the distributor. And immediately that catches the eye - this backlash, the backlash of the input shaft. It still remains a mystery to me how I will put it in its place, but time will tell. I disconnected the box from the distributor, and the second thing that caught my eye was that this nut was unscrewed. And it looks like we have a left-hand thread.

He unscrewed the cover, unscrewed the flange mounting bolts. Now let's see what's inside. I don't see anything dramatic yet. Now I'll see, if anything, I'll tell you. Apparently, this was the problem. This block of gears, this shaft is all shaking, dangling. And here it squeezed out the lid that needs to be screwed on.

Apparently, the problem is in this bearing of the gear block, because the entire shaft sometimes does not mesh, because it dangles. And the synchronizer has practically no teeth.I have a friend, a specialist in VAZ nearby, I will now consult with him and continue the repair.

I consulted with a specialist, they said that both bearings of the intermediate shaft and the bearing of the input shaft are being replaced. They told the ground synchronizer not to touch it, to leave it that way, because there are no rusks or balls. It will work fine. It is also necessary to change the oil sump washer.

I went to the store and bought bearings: 50 208 with a groove on the input shaft; 50 306 to the intermediate shaft. I still need a 305th open bearing without a groove, but there was no open one, I bought a closed one. Then I will remove these rubber things - it will be open. Also, sealant, gaskets for the box, oil squeegees and bolts for the universal joint.

Now we will disassemble the box. To remove the intermediate shaft, these gears must be removed. To do this, I unscrewed this bolt. It must be unscrewed. Now I will knock out the axle. All knocked out.

Now we will knock out the intermediate shaft itself. To do this, we need to unscrew this nut. And you will have to hit the bearing from the other side so that it falls out here. Now let's see how it goes. It was not possible to unscrew this cover, because it was squeezed out, and it did not go along the thread. I just broke it. I don’t know if there are such on sale or not, it is aluminum. Look what happened to the bearing there - practically nothing remained of it.

Now we need to press out the input shaft. Here on the gear there is a place where there are no teeth. It must be placed so that it does not interfere with the exit, so that the teeth do not cling to this gear. We twist, set, now we will press out. I found such an iron screwdriver, now I will put it. This input shaft came out very easily.

Let's go further. We pulled out the primary shaft, now we proceed to the secondary shaft. It is necessary to unscrew these bolts, remove this lock washer, and hit the bearing there so that the bearing comes out. I have already unscrewed these plates, which held the bearing in the groove. Now I remove the lock washer, then remove the lock washer. Now you can hit the bearing to make it come out. Now I will press out the bearing with hammer blows. The bearing needs to be pulled out of here, I'll try now. After removing the bearing and removing (inaudible 09:35) washers, I pull out the output shaft.

To remove the intermediate shaft, you need to unscrew this nut and drive it in there. Now let's try how it will be. I unscrewed the countershaft nut, there was a retainer from the bearing, and now we will pull out the gears. He understands everything here and so he should get out. Putting it together so as not to forget how they stood. Now I will wash, clean and start replacing parts and assembling the box. The box has been disassembled, now I will clean this centuries-old dirt with a scraper. Then I'll try, I have a cutter, you can also use a torch, I'll burn it all to keep it clean. Only then will I collect everything.

We install the intermediate shaft. First we put on the ring, then the small gear, then this one will go, the smaller one. Then we put the big one. Only we will insert all this inside, so we will analyze everything again.

Now we will press in bearing 50 306. We press it in on this side, go to the other side. Now we press in the bearing on the other side. We install the secondary shaft. We stuck the rollers on the grease, now we will insert them into the secondary shaft. That's it, there is nothing interesting here yet. Now we will collect everything, connect it to the distributor. The most interesting thing will begin when we put it in place.

Shock! In UAZ "loaf" invested 2 Llamas! What came of it

To insert the box into the distributor, you need to remove the hatch on the distributor and adjust the gears with your hands. It should line up with the output shaft. Using all kinds of pads, I set up the box like this. Now I will try to push it there. I do the work alone, I don't know if it will work out or not. Until the bottom can not put the box, I stuck it in there, but I have not yet hit the clutch.When I was redoing the floors in the loaf, they all rotted away, I foresaw such a hatch, it is held on by bolts. Now I will try to lift it with ropes from here and insert it.

Also look who is going to alter the body of the loaf, I have such a table. I have it that opens on bearings, and there is access to the rear of the engine. Now I will try to lift the box from here. Everything, as we can see, the box went into its mountings. Luke helped, but only two holes would be enough to stretch the rope. That is, I stretched the rope, tied it in a knot, began to twist it with a crowbar, and the box began to rise. I hope I did everything right. Everything, we collect further.

Having twisted a few turns, I lifted the box to the end, and now you can easily tighten the fasteners of the box pillows. So the hatch passed the test - a necessary thing. That's it, finished the work.

It took me 1,500 rubles for the material: for all the gaskets, oil, bearings. Last time I repaired a box in a car service, the first gear took off, they took 10,000 rubles. Today I had to do it myself, but I saved it.

UAZ-469 belongs to the number of cargo-and-passenger vehicles, which are distinguished by an increased level of cross-country ability. The car was produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant. In addition to UAZ-469, the car plant presented such models as UAZ 452 (loaf), UAZ Patriot.

On the UAZ 469, the gearbox is mechanical, designed for 4-speed. In this case, the 4-speed gearbox is equipped with synchronizers. They are needed to implement speed equalization. There are shafts, while the input shaft is based on two bearings. The intermediate shaft drive gears are helical. To accommodate the occurrence of radial and axial loads during movement, the rear shaft support includes a double-row angular contact ball bearing. Such a checkpoint allows the vehicle to move in reverse. The vehicle is equipped with a transfer case. Transfer case UAZ 469 includes drive axle shafts, gears, which have a long working life.

The advantage of a manual transmission is that it is designed for a long service life. The car, which has off-road qualities and is equipped with a manual transmission, is excellent for cross-country operation.

The vehicle must be diagnosed if its handling has deteriorated. In parallel with this, squeaks can be heard when changing gears. Also, it is necessary to check the state of the box if the transmissions are activated spontaneously. In some cases, it is necessary to replace bearings and gears in order to solve the problem with the occurrence of noise. If the gear shift is tight, the synchronizers are checked. The main reason why there is a need to replace the component parts of the box on an SUV is their natural wear and tear.

One of the signs that the transfer case should be checked is if the grip of the wheels with the road has deteriorated, and noise from its side has begun to build up. Improper use of the vehicle leads to the repair of the gearbox on the UAZ 469. In particular, it is necessary to replace the transmission oil in a timely manner.

Another problem that a UAZ driver may encounter is oil leakage from the gearbox. This manifestation is the result of an increased oil level in the gearbox. Also, if water gets into the system while filling the box with new fuel, the motorist will soon encounter the problem of fluid leakage from the gearbox. However, not only the use of low-quality oil can be the reason that a leak will be noted, since there may be a crack on the crankcase or in the cover of the UAZ 469 gearbox.

Thus, the high-speed box of the UAZ 469 car includes many working units that ensure the optimal functioning of the automotive system. Given this, the owner of the vehicle must subject the car to regular maintenance. This will reduce the risk of premature repair of the UAZ 469 gearbox.

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What kind of locksmith tools are needed to repair a gearbox? To carry out repairs, you should acquire a whole repair kit. In particular, you will need open-end wrenches, socket wrenches, a hammer, screwdrivers, and a mounting spade.It should be noted the large weight of the box, all due to the fact that the device has a message with a dispenser. With this in mind, dismantling the box should not be done alone.How to remove the box? To start the procedure for withdrawing the checkpoint, follow these steps:

UAZ stands on the observation hole.

The transmission oil is drained (this will slightly lighten the weight of the box).

The seats are dismantled in the cabin.

The clutch release fork, frame, cardan shaft, speedometer shaft, clutch pan, muffler adjacent to the distributor must be removed. The curtain must be removed.

The transfer case must be disconnected from the main gearbox. As a rule, the distributor is wrapped with rope and hung.

All consumable parts (bolts, nuts, etc.) are unscrewed.

Since the UAZ gearbox is fixed on the fasteners, they must be unscrewed and the box can be removed from the slots.

We unscrew the clutch pan. We unscrew the fastening of the input shaft spline oiler (on the right on the bell) and push the hose inside the bell. We unscrew the four bolts securing the clutch fork cover, remove the spring, twist the adjustment on the slave cylinder rod and pull out the fork.

We wrap the box with the distributor with rope and hang it up. Unscrew and remove the bolts of the pillows, unscrew the nuts securing the box to the bell. Do this gradually, the nuts on the left side will completely unscrew only when the box has already partially moved away from the bell. Help yourself with a montage. In this case, it is better to prop the engine with a jack, otherwise it will remain on two supports and the “rear” part will go down - it will interfere. When the box finally hangs, gently lower it down. It is better to change the studs in the bell - they experience heavy loads, and 50/50 that the thread on them is damaged. If the car is on the ground, the levers must be removed for ease of pulling it out from under the car. When removing the gear lever, the cover must be held - there is a spring under it.

Remove the parking brake lever so that it does not interfere. After unscrewing two bolts and two nuts, we disconnect the gearbox and transfer case. Since the gasket between them is probably on the sealant, they are separated by several blows on the bracket for attaching the unit to the frame. Do not lose the “Countershaft thrust washer”. If it is there and differs from the photo, I beg you to take a photo and send the photo to me, I have never seen it. 🙂 In the photo there is an oil deflector ring out of the box that fits in diameter.

Remove the cover with the gear shift forks. Remove the input shaft cover. Having turned on any gear, we put a copper in the teeth and unscrew the flat nut on the input shaft (it is left!). Now we look inside the box - on the input shaft gear there is a cutout for the large intermediate gear. We put the shaft so that the cutout coincides and neat oblique blows on the shaft we press out the bearing of the input shaft. The main thing is not to rush and beat in a circle, so as not to distort the bearing and spoil the landing one. In the photo, the shaft, which I have already taken out three times, which was before me - I do not know. As you can see, it is hot and does not suffer from blows. If the bearing of the input shaft is worn out, knock down and install a new one. He suffers perhaps the most, so 90% will have to change him. These bearings come with a closed and open cage, I did not understand the difference - it is still under the cover.

Inside the input shaft lives roller bearing without clip. Most likely, it crumbled during disassembly. Collect it. If the last roller gets up easily, you need to change it. With the new set of rollers, the latter can only be inserted with great difficulty and "along". It even seemed to me that they slipped the wrong one :).

Remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft, unscrew the double-row bearing stoppers. We knock out the secondary shaft. By the way, when I needed to replace only the double-row bearing, I contrived to do it without disassembling anything else.He took off the retaining ring and picked it out 🙂 By the way, that box still drives.

Now we take out the 3-4 gear clutch assembly. Remember how it stood - on the contrary, it will put on the shaft, but the input shaft will not stand. Copper synchronizers are likely to be replaced, as well as three croutons with springs and balls (croutons are now sold without balls, with protrusions, it is easier to assemble). When assembling the coupling, do not turn the inside over the outside. We take out the secondary shaft and defect the shaft, double row and gears.

Remove the reverse gear shaft. To do this, unscrew the locking screw from the hole (marked in red in the figure) with a flat screwdriver, and then knock the shaft out of the box. Inside the gear there is a multi-row bearing with a plastic cage, we take out the retaining rings, a metal tube and defect the bearing. The box of the 72nd edition turned out to be intact :).

First, you need to loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts of the transfer case - for this, we insert bolts of suitable diameter into the two holes of the flange and hold them with a mounting. The shaft nuts are hidden under the covers, it is imperative to unscrew them - the shafts can be removed with the nuts, but then it is very difficult to unscrew them. Unscrewing the flanges, remove the handbrake (at the same time, you can check its performance and change the pads). The soured working cylinder is disassembled and soaked in diesel fuel, checked. There are no spare parts for the brake - either pads or all assemblies.

We remove the covers with oil seals and change the oil seals (unless they are completely new), not forgetting to fill the free space with "Litol". Unscrew the bolt by 10 and take out the speedometer drive. Unscrew the breather and replace it with a new one (100% soured). Better yet, a pipe to the salon. Unscrew the stopper for the guide forks.

Now you can “halve” the transfer case - Remove all retaining rings from the bearings, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and remove the large-sized cover. If necessary, we change the roller bearing in this cover, the inner race is pressed onto the shaft. There are two bearings on the rear axle shaft, the second one must be inspected.

The razdatka is assembled in the reverse order. It is necessary to carefully inspect the flanges and replace at the slightest sign of wear on the splines, it progresses very quickly. Wear on the forks is also unacceptable. Do not forget to core the nuts.

Let me extract one detail in your story about the repair of the RK, namely: when you change the roller bearing on the intermediate shaft, you need to knock out the plug in the RK housing that closes it, because the bearing race is pressed in 3 mm from the outer edge of the housing (you cannot catch this without removing the plug). The plug itself is put into place already on the fully assembled RK (so that you can check the bearing preload). Before installing the plug, straighten on the plate, then a thin layer of sealant is applied to the edges of the hole in the RK housing under the plug and the plug is set in place using a mandrel (instead of it, you can use a piece of pipe 6-8 mm smaller in diameter, i.e. a tight fit is achieved due to the uniform indentation of the middle).

We glue the gaskets between the box and the distributor on the sealant. We put in place the bracket for fastening to the frame. We put the transfer case on the hand brake drum, and holding the gear in the transfer case through the “power take-off hatch” we lower the box into place, not forgetting to put the same “intermediate shaft thrust washer”. We take care of our fingers. We tighten two bolts and two nuts, put on covers with levers and check the operation of all gearboxes and handouts. We are glad that it turned out.

We change the release bearing for a pre-welded in nigrol. We remove the levers, drag the unit under the car and hang it on a rope. We put the clutch release assembly on the box, put the spring. Now the most difficult moment is to insert the input shaft into the clutch. Slightly moving the box up and down, turning the engine with a jack and turning the engine by the flywheel, sooner or later we put the box in place.Do not put the box right next to it - first, on the left, insert the growers with nuts into the slot. We pull the unit to the engine, fasten it to the pillows. We install in place the clutch fork and the oiler of the input shaft splines. We put in place the speedometer drive, covers with handles, handbrake, cardan shafts. Please note - in stores, disposable gimbal bolts are often sold. The normal bolt is hardened, with an “X” on the head. The letter "Ч" on the head means the manufacturing plant and does not serve as a guarantee of strength. We put in place the cross member of the frame, we fasten the bracket of the muffler to the distributor. Setting up the handbrake.

Video (click to play).

Fill up with oil, put the hatch in place, the seats and go to check the results of a well-spent weekend 🙂
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