DIY uazik repair

UAZ vehicles are considered the most versatile and practical vehicle. Many residents of our country choose these domestic cars. Cars of this brand have one indisputable advantage - it is really possible to repair the UAZ on your own.

The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant produces off-road vehicles. In wartime, the ZIS-5 was made here, and when the war ended - the "lorry" GAZ AA. Since the mid-1950s, the production of GAZ-69 began, and the first independent development of the plant was the UAZ-450, the founder of the famous "tablet". Then, for a very long time (more than 30 years), the serial production of the "goat" - UAZ-469 was launched. The UAZ-3303 cargo truck also found its admirers among consumers. Almost all of the above machines can be repaired by hand.

The work of a master in a car service

The simplicity and maintainability of UAZ vehicles have always been highly appreciated by those who bought them - rural residents, off-road enthusiasts, army men. Operation of the UAZ 469 is possible at any time of the year, in any climatic and road (or off-road) conditions. The greatest stress is usually placed on the engine, clutch and suspension. Spare parts for these units can be found without problems.

The engine of UAZ vehicles often overheats, especially when driving off-road. This, in turn, leads to the destruction of the pistons and cylinder liners. As a result, many motorists have to change the complete power unit. To make it easier to restore the UAZ 469 with your own hands, you can use the repair manual. So motorists will be confident in the correctness of their actions when replacing damaged vehicle parts.

Usually, UAZ car repair is associated with the replacement of body elements and its alteration. Motorists who decide to repair their car on their own should always remember that such operations require certain calculations and skills, since the rigidity of the body after the repair should be the same. In addition, it is advisable to arm yourself with special electrical circuits, they will always come in handy. Having studied the circuit, it will be possible to understand what wires the equipment is powered by, what wires it connects. If difficulties arise with this, it is better to entrust the restoration of the performance of your car to experienced specialists.

You can always carry out repairs, for example, UAZ 390995, by watching the corresponding video. Competent restoration of UAZ Hunter and other car models of the Ulyanovsk plant will extend the service life of the vehicle.

We should also mention the repair of mufflers for UAZ vehicles. The location of the part is considered very inconvenient. If you have to drive off-road for a long time, the muffler, as a rule, simply pulls out.

UAZ vehicles are reliable, they show themselves excellently in the harsh Russian conditions. Even a primitive-looking UAZ "tablet" is capable of great feats. But he will need frequent repairs, including engine rebuilding.

Some problems can be dealt with on your own. For example, if the engine does not start, you need to flush the fuel tank sump with gasoline and blow it out with compressed air. If the engine overheats, it is necessary to check whether it has enough coolant.

During the operation of UAZ machines, other problems with the engine may occur. It is worth disassembling the motor only if the following factors are present:

• engine power decreases;
• oil consumption increases;
• the lubricant pressure decreases;
• the motor smokes;
• there is a knock or noise;
• fuel consumption increases significantly.

When removing the engine, follow the standard procedure. First, you need to install the car above the inspection pit, fill in oil and coolant. Then you need to remove the air filter and disconnect the exhaust pipe of the muffler. After that, the hoses of the oil cooler, heating and cooling systems should be disconnected. Next, the radiator is removed. Then it is necessary to disconnect the throttle rods from the carburetor and all electrical wires from the engine. The next step is to disconnect the clutch release cylinder, unscrew the mounting bolts. It remains only to disconnect the gearbox, and then remove the engine itself. In this case, the gearbox and transfer case must remain on the frame. When installing the motor, all steps are performed in reverse order.

Some repair work can be done by yourself

You will need special tools to disassemble the engine. The easiest way to disassemble it is on a swivel stand. It is necessary to start work with a thorough cleaning of various contaminants. After the motor is disassembled, it is necessary to degrease and clean all its parts from carbon deposits. This can be done, for example, mechanically. Then the rubbing surfaces must be lubricated with engine oil.

It is advisable to install permanent joints on nitro varnish, and threaded parts on red lead. A torque wrench is best for tightening bolts and nuts.

Many owners of this model have personal experience in repairing the UAZ 469 body with their own hands. The creation of the automobile plant in Ulyanovsk has long become legendary in the vastness of the post-Soviet space. The UAZ, despite its seeming martyrdom clumsiness, has a lot of positive qualities, among which is increased cross-country ability.

It is known that in Soviet times, the car was used to transport field military commanders, thus, it was endowed with excellent driving qualities - practically unkillable undercarriage. But, like any unit assembled from iron, this car also has problems with the body.

Personal experience of DIY UAZ 469 body repair associates with several factors, the reasons for which it is necessary to carry out the appropriate work. Firstly, it is a rather aggressive operating environment (after all, it is no secret that a car drives mainly on wild off-road conditions). Secondly, it is also important that many of the privately owned copies are already quite old cars, which, with all the strength of their physique, are beginning to age slowly.

Such repairs, as a rule, are subdivided into small ones, carried out even without the help of a welding unit, and global, large ones, requiring rather large costs (when the entire wing is changed, for example, or, even more difficult, the load-bearing parts of the body).

In principle, with certain skills, both of them can be produced in a personal garage, there would be an appropriate tool at hand. But nevertheless, it is recommended for beginners to carry out major repair work under the guidance of an experienced master so as not to violate the geometry of the body (otherwise your car will not look very aesthetically pleasing at the end of the procedures).

Removing the old layers of paint from our fishing and hunting UAZ with a friend (we decided to make a fashionable spotted camouflage paint), we found places of corrosion and even several holes in the body of the body. Of course, we were a little upset. With places where there is rust, it is clear what to do: cleaned to metal, processed, as expected, putty and sanded. Everything turned out smoothly and imperceptibly. But what to do with holes? Not to change the entire wing due to several holes: it is expensive, and, frankly, it was not part of our plans to carry out such global work.

Koum advised that the holes (each one centimeter to two centimeters in diameter) should be repaired with fiberglass and putty.Such repairs, of course, are quite simple to perform, and by their means it is the cheapest, perhaps. But I read somewhere that this method is considered by specialists to be short-lived, something like a temporary firefighting option (although, sometimes we have nothing more permanent than a temporary one). Because, being actively exposed to moisture (and the machine is operated in the field), soon the place begins to bubble, swell, which leads to the expansion of the affected areas. And as a result, the hole is even larger than it was. And who needs it?

After consulting again, we decided to install more durable patches on the bodywork (metal). The metal was taken from the remaining scraps of the sheet, quite good and durable. In thickness - a little even thicker than the standard bodywork (well, just such a cut was found at hand). The patches were cut out with a grinder according to the dimensions measured in advance (with a margin to cover the holes well). At first, the parts were thoroughly sanded and ground them to the places of their dislocation. Then they took a powerful soldering iron and irradiated the joints.

The lapped patch was warmed up with a soldering iron and placed in the planned tinned place. Soldered carefully so that the surfaces do not have protrusions. We slightly adjusted it with a hammer. We waited for a while and checked the strength of the solder. Grabbed tightly! The top was ground again additionally.

So, our patch turned out to be even, and not protruding especially above the general surface of the wing. The same procedure was carried out with the next hole in the body. Everything was done according to the established scheme, so the procedure took even less time.

Then the places where they put the patches degreased, put putty, rubbed, sanded, applied again, tweaked and sanded clean. Further - as according to plan (but before that, they additionally looked more closely at the entire body for possible flaws: pah-pah, in other places everything was fine everywhere) - a primer, painting in a basic tone, overlaying stains of several colors, related in scale. And here is our dream in the flesh: it dries up - let's go fishing right away!

As you can see: everything is not so difficult as it seemed at first glance. So do not be scared right away, but our personal experience in repairing the UAZ 469 body with our own hands, I hope, will help you in gaining self-confidence!

published with permission of the author, source>

Well .. at first I went by car to all kinds of picnics, shalyki, fishing. Everything was cool, if not for some points:

• not everywhere you can go (good places are usually inaccessible for ordinary cars)
• where you can go - there are already whole hordes of vacationers with all the attendant
• you won't load too much
• after almost every trip there was a bill from the service for certain details, a special inconvenience was represented by bushes that scratched the car and its appearance was ditched specifically

I read forums and all kinds of reviews. I decided to buy a booze, tk. a large volume was required, I did not want to bang money into this venture, and in general, I did not know what the hell I needed all this for.

I searched for a long time, found on an ad for 1500 ye in Fryazino the necessary loaf “ideally and not rotten” :).
There was no question about the goat, tk. the car was supposed to be made for an expeditionary campaign with a bunch of junk on board.

At that time, there was no way to participate in the competition. Trips to nature with all that it implies. From 1 to 3 days.

Now trips from 3 to 20 days are a normal scenario.

With you, if necessary, take a satellite dish and a TV 🙂 So that it is not boring in the evening / at night 🙂

When I drove in and began to figure it out, a diagnosis was made - a complete overcooking. Moreover, I wanted to leave it on a standard loaf of rubber.

Then 35x12.5x15 wheels and disks turned up under the arm, and the task expanded beyond recognition. Looking ahead, if I had known how it would all end, I probably would not have taken it.

UAZ cars are very popular in Russia, and in Soviet times the UAZ was out of competition - foreign SUVs were extremely rare in the Soviet Union at that time. But since the machines are often operated in difficult conditions, it is necessary to regularly repair components and assemblies, and repairing the UAZ engine is a relevant topic that interests many.

• motors are not complex;
• spare parts are available and are in stock at many auto dealerships;
• engine parts are inexpensive.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk plant have their own characteristic "diseases", and not all car owners leave their "native" engine - they put internal combustion engines from other car models. In this article, we will consider the features of UAZ engine repair, typical engine malfunctions, as well as possible options for replacing UAZoav power units.

UMP began its history in 1944, when a joint-stock company was created by the order of the People's Commissar. At first, the plant produced small-displacement engines for charging batteries and mobile power plants, and the first automobile internal combustion engine rolled off the assembly line in 1969.

The motor was named UMZ 451, and had a lot in common with the power unit of the Volga GAZ 21. Since 1971, the ICE 451 was modernized, and it received the 451M index, this engine was awarded the “Quality Mark”. In the late 70s and early 80s of the last century, the UMZ-414 ICE was installed on the UAZ 469 ("goat") and UAZ 452 ("loaf") cars, and since 1989, the UMP 417 with a capacity of 90 liters has been produced. With.

Until the mid-90s, all Ulyanovsk engines had a volume of 2.445 liters and a cylinder diameter of 92 mm. In 1996, the production of the UMZ-421 ICE began, this power unit was distinguished by a cylinder diameter increased to 100 mm and a large volume (2.89 liters). Since 1997, the Ulyanovsk plant has been supplying power units for GAZ vehicles, and these are models:

• 4215;
• 4213;
• 4216 in various modifications;
• Evotech 2.7.

The engine of the Ulyanovsk plant, model 417, is produced in various modifications, has an aluminum block and a cylinder head, 4 cylinders in one row, 2 valves per cylinder. "417th" engines have a carburetor fuel system:

• a single-chamber carburetor is installed on modification 417;
• UMZ-4178 is equipped with a two-chamber carburetor.

The technical characteristics of the UMZ-417 are as follows:

• volume - 2445 cm³;
• power - 90 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 92 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 7.1;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• type of fuel used - gasoline A-76.

The UMZ-417 internal combustion engine, in addition to 4178, also has other modifications:

• 4175 - an engine designed to use AI-92 gasoline (98 hp, compression ratio - 8.2);
• 10-10 - ICE with a block head from model 421 and with a rubber rear oil seal.

The UMZ-421 engine has been produced since 1996, it is installed on Ulyanovsk models:

Instead of stuffing box packing, this motor uses a rubber oil seal as the rear crankshaft seal. This motor has the following characteristics:

• volume - 2890 cm³;
• power - 98 liters. With.;
• piston diameter - 100 mm;
• compression ratio (compression in cylinders) - 8.2;
• piston stroke - 92 mm;
• the type of fuel used is AI-92 gasoline.

There is also a version of the internal combustion engine designed for A-76 gasoline fuel, the power of such a power unit is 91 liters. With. (respectively, the compression ratio is 7.0). UMZ-421 motors are equipped with K-151E carburetors.

The UAZ Patriot, which is widely popular in Russia, has been produced since 2005, but unlike all other Ulyanovsk-made cars, this model has no "native" engines - the SUV is equipped with ZMZ and Iveco engines. Only one type of gasoline engines is installed on the Patriot as standard - 3MZ 409.10 with a volume of 2.7 liters and a capacity of 128 liters. With. This engine has taken root so well on the UAZ that it is sometimes called the UAZ 409.

The engines of the Ulyanovsk Motor Plant are distinguished by their simplicity of design and high maintainability, and since UMP engines are simple, many drivers repair UAZ engines with their own hands. Overhaul is always carried out with the removal and installation of the power unit, disassembly and assembly of the internal combustion engine, so that the engine works for a long time after repair, it is necessary to correctly troubleshoot.

What to consider when doing self-repair:

We disassemble the removed engine as follows (consider the example of the UMZ-417 engine):

• disconnect the manifold assembly with the carburetor from the block head. The two inner nuts are most difficult to crawl, so you should use a socket wrench (standard nuts are usually 14 mm);
• remove the valve cover (6 screws or bolts);
• dismantle the distributor drive, remove the two side covers of the pushers;
• unscrew the nuts securing the rocker arm axle (4 pcs.), remove the axle. We take out the rods (there are 8 of them), and then the pushers (also 8 pcs.);
• we unscrew the cylinder head fastening nuts, dismantle the block head. The head can sit tightly, but you do not need to apply much effort to remove it, and when removing it, you should try not to damage the surface of the cylinder head;
• why do we remove the crankshaft pulley, turn off the ratchet. It can be unscrewed with sharp hammer blows in a counterclockwise direction;
• then the hub should be dismantled; to remove it, you must use a special factory or homemade puller. When dismantling, it is necessary to secure the crankshaft from rotation;
• the next step is to remove the pallet (oil sump). After unscrewing all the nuts, gently knock on the pallet with a hammer, and if the crankcase does not come off, you can pry it with a screwdriver, pushing it between the block and the plane of the pallet. You should not regret the gasket (it is still a replacement), the main thing is not to damage the surfaces of the parts;
• remove the oil pump, it is supported by four nuts;
• dismantle the camshaft cover (unscrew 7 nuts);
• we turn off the connecting rod nuts, dismantle the connecting rod caps, take out the pistons together with the connecting rods. It is necessary to dismantle one connecting rod at a time and immediately bait the covers in place - the covers should not be confused with each other, they are not interchangeable;
• we unscrew the nuts of the main covers, dismantle the covers, take out the crankshaft assembly with the gear, flywheel and clutch;
• we turn the camshaft so that bolts appear under the holes in the camshaft. With a socket wrench, unscrew the two bolts by 12, dismantle the camshaft together with the gear.

Now it remains to disassemble the details:

• disconnect the manifold from the block head;
• dry up the valve;
• remove the clutch, gear and flywheel from the crankshaft;
• dismantle the gear from the camshaft;
• disconnect the pistons from the connecting rods.

Disassembly is complete, you can start troubleshooting parts.

Often on the old "UAZ" the engine completely depletes its resource, and then the car owners have a very reasonable question - how to replace the old engine. Installing an engine on the UAZ 402 is the most reasonable solution:

• the ZMZ-402 engine is more reliable than the "UAZ" one, and many such used engines in good enough condition are sold by hand;
• a minimum of alterations will be required for replacement - the Zavolzhsky ICE fits all mountings.

The "four hundred and second" engine has another very big plus - it will be the cheapest of all the proposed options that may exist when replacing the engine with a UAZ.

Installation of the ZMZ 406/405/409 engine on the UAZ will be somewhat more expensive. These motors are also suitable for mountings, but you will have to:

• deal with electrical wiring;
• adjust the front exhaust pipe.

In general, there are not very many alterations, but the 406 motors themselves are a little more expensive. There are UAZ car owners who install imported diesel engines on the car, but here you have to make a lot of changes to the design:

• remodel the exhaust system;
• digest motor and gearbox mountings;
• completely throw the wires;
• adjust the water connections in places.