Ulka ep8 DIY repair

The Italian company ULKA produces a number of small-sized vibration pumps for water. Power supply 24 or 220V 50 Hz, outlet pressure, depending on the model, from 1 to 20 bar, productivity 0.3-1 liters per minute. They are used in coffee machines, washing vacuum cleaners, etc.
There is an idea to use such a pump as a metering pump. Since the volume of slurry spat out in one pumping is constant, the amount of alcohol withdrawn can be adjusted by feeding the required number of half-waves of sinus 220V to the pump winding, that is, like a PFM synchronized with the network.
I bought it on the market for 700 rubles. pump ULKA EP77, 220V 50Hz 28 W, outlet pressure 4 bar, productivity 0.9 l / min (this is at 0 bar).
Disassembled to find out what's inside:

Glands - elements of the magnetic circuit
This is actually a pump without a coil and magnetic circuit

Outlet valve

So, only the materials used in the pump confuse:
-Pump body and inlet valve are made of polyamide, capralon or something else similar
-The ring around the stem and the outlet valve are made of some kind of black rubber
Polyamide alcohol will probably withstand, but I'm not sure about heads and tails
The gum can smell in alcohol, or even completely dissolve.

I think, as an option, replace the ring and valve with silicone or fluoroplastic, but how to make them is still unclear.

A dishonest lady from a popular program about apartment renovation, from the time when I was still watching TV, with her insistent recommendation pushed to buy a Thomas TWIN TT aquafilter vacuum cleaner. Almost immediately, he started having problems, here and there pouring water, then there. In the SC they said they say it's a washing vacuum cleaner, they all work like that. Ok, I thought. It is an unacceptable luxury to go to mechanics who understand technology less than you just for the sake of driving around the city. Therefore, one day he just once disassembled and assembled this miracle of the conquered people, setting all the gaskets as they should be and he began to work. perfectly! Moreover, the case is assembled with 6 screws, two of which are in the back.

I came across forgotten uninstalled caps, missing screws, unremoved mounting on 3M, and therefore an unfastened part in the same Audi A8, so I was not particularly surprised when I discovered that one of these screws was missing in the new vacuum cleaner! Although there is a hole for it! This is a stone in the garden of German pedantry.

And now the standard breakdown. The pump is dead. This is not the first purchase and is far from an isolated case, as if shouting to the manufacturer that these pumps are unreliable and the supplier needs to be changed, but Thomas Robert? Robert! Stubbornly installs unusable parts, think just like that? In the SC, the pump costs 2-3000 rubles, but if you turn to the free market, you can easily find it at a more real cost
for only 1100. It is a pity that I am not in the city of Moscow, where they are.

The dispenser, or as they call it, is drin on the handle. the ring on which it is attached breaks, well, make it out of polyamide, for example, and the problem will go away! There are a few more points about this vacuum cleaner, is there any point in talking about them? This MUST be occupied by testers at the enterprise!

I watched their newest model. Women! After all, 99% of you will take care of this vacuum cleaner, just take care of it, think how long and how long it is possible to clean a complex filtration system! I feel sorry for you! Don't get fooled by advertising!

Engineers! In quotes. And again, as the most weighty argument - the mention of the program "Housing Problem" and so on. I wonder when the deputies will come up with the idea of ​​punishing at least the person who agreed to advertise a bad product for false advertising ?! For example, the presenter can be offered two options, the first is to pay compensation to all the victims, or go to the Mausoleum and sit on the count live.

I don’t buy your equipment anymore!

Well, lastly, the Thomas TWIN TT aquafilter pump is also the ULKA 26W 230V Tipe EP8 pump, which is what it consists of. And then I read a lot on the Internet about some fantastic designs.If only someone would have guessed to disassemble it! I will tell you a secret that sometimes replacement of o-rings helps.

In fairness, I note that after I assembled the vacuum cleaner, it performs its function of collecting dust perfectly, although worse than the Moulinex modernized by me, which will never die

giving a lot of money in general and having heard enough about excellent consumer qualities, as well as assurances of German quality, I assume that I get the same thing as. Well, like my Siemens refrigerator, which will make modern coffins in terms of internal volume, quality of work and silence, and even then it was of the highest eonomic degree, so I don’t mind the money. It didn't work out with Thomas, the assembly is rubbish, plus bad components and a number of engineering mistakes that spoil the whole buzz of use for a normal consumer. Of course, I ALREADY already eliminated some of the problems, that it was broken, repaired or replaced with a custom, which is stupidly stronger, although it looks the same) But the pump is already tired of buying the same one.

There are a number of other tricks, for example, the lie about the pump power indicated on the box, the pump manufacturer's website has its real performance and it is 3 times lower! Or for example hemorrhoids with vacuum cleaning. The manufacturer, who has gone berserk with indignation, thinks that there are only mean and idiots around who do not use original bags, and the pumps are burning because they do not monitor the liquid level, and the liquid is poured into the “left” one! So there you go! I'm not a mean, I'm an idiot, because I only poured the original liquid, used bags, my vacuum cleaner looks like new outwardly. but it still breaks.

Guys tell me how to check the pressure?
Recently, I began to notice that when making Espresso, coffee barely barely runs. Maybe pump wear?
The instructions say that the pressure is 13-15 bar.
The pump is exactly as in the picture: Pompa ULKA EX5 230V.
I found the scheme by part numbers on the Internet.
Or is it necessary to do some kind of prevention?
Thanks in advance.

kraf, first of all, you need to do prevention, and only then think about replacing the pump. to do this, you need to open the manual for your coffee maker or similar.

The pressure question remains at the top!

If you want to know "shikoko?" , then open the coffee maker and hook on the pressure gauge at the exit. just whether it is necessary to do it. It is enough just to carry out high-quality prophylaxis, and then make a decision on replacing the pump.

In principle, a simple coffee maker consists of two parts: a pump and a heater, as I understood from the advice of the Internet, check the line for scale at the outlet, and the pump itself. I thought how to separately check the pump for the presence of the pressure that it should give and then everything else.

Yesterday I went through the pump, everything looks ok, there is nothing to complain about (in appearance), I assembled it. Then I decided to check the grate from the bottom to which the coffee horn is wrapped, and then it will be solved in 6 years as with sandpaper and the holes are barely visible, I cleaned it with a needle. Included everything shakes without problems. I don’t know what pressure it gives at the outlet. We need to make some coffee to see.

And who will tell you the best way to clean, as I understand it, it would be necessary to clean the heating boiler for prevention. Or is it better to disassemble. Is this node something I didn’t begin to disassemble?

You are already ready to make out everything. don't do that. Read about descaling (calcium) in the net. In your case, you can clean it with citric acid - 10g per liter of water. and periodically.

All the same, I disassembled the water preparation unit (heater), There is a rubber gasket, I was afraid to clean it with acid, in a normal state. All the scale that crumbled from the heating element remained inside, the tube going up (I don’t know how to call it correctly) was greenish on top (it began to oxidize). I cleared everything.
But the problem remained.
The coffee brewed a couple of times also flows slowly. I don’t know how to check the pressure!
At least take a pressure gauge, just which one?

Good afternoon, pay attention to how hot water passes through the steam pipe, if there is a weak pressure, definitely a dirty boiler or a filter that stands after the water tank in front of the pump, if normal, see the tubes from the boller to the charger (briver).
Pumps rarely fly, take citric acid, dilute it with warm water and pour it into the tank, turn on hot water first, then steam, then also run the cycle by pressing the riser.
Then fill in with clean water and do it all over again. It will help 100%, every day we do this in the service center)))
Most often:
dirty filter after the tank, before the pump
nose that rests on the briver
just the breever net is heavily clogged

krasutskiy, What are you talking about . about what briver and memory? Look at the photo in the first post. and he has already cleaned everything up to the analysis, but it seems he has nowhere to rush. I think the repair will be successful by the New Year.
You'd better tell him (TC) which pressure gauge to use, Schaub to make sure that the pump is working properly or not. maybe it will go faster.

shov244,)))) really looked in the wrong place))) about the pressure gauge we have like this, but you can use any liquid one with the required working pressure.
In the pump, usually due to wear, the oil seal on the piston or the spring on the valves changes (there are two direct and reverse, both have plastic balls that close the channel)

These pumps work in the presence of water, you should not turn on dry, the coil heats up and parts quickly wear out)

A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of magic wand in case of unforeseen situations. By design, it resembles equipment for the supply of drinking water, but it has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.

Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out if it is possible to repair the drain pump with our own hands, if necessary.

The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large inclusions of sand, organic debris is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.

It is better to get acquainted with the internal filling of the device immediately after purchase in order to imagine which parts may fail in case of clogging or breakdown. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble - it is enough to study the diagram that is attached to the instructions for connecting and maintaining the device.

Apparatuses for private use in summer cottages do not differ in high power or complex filling. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.

The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The motor is housed inside a robust casing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.

Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid to the inside of the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, pick up water from the outside and push it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next - and so on until the mechanism stops.

The float switch regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the level of liquid in a reservoir or natural reservoir, when it drops sharply, it turns off the device in automatic mode.

As you can see, the drainage pump device is quite simple, and if you have ever disassembled and cleaned a submersible well pump, then you can handle this category of equipment as well. The faecal aggregate, which has an additional unit for crushing too large particles, is slightly different.

The submersible is useful for cleaning deep tanks, for example, a well that has just been commissioned. The first liquid that has accumulated in it cannot be called drinking, since there are many large inclusions of sand and clay. During the day, it is necessary to pump out the contaminated liquid so that clean, usable water comes in its place.

Unlike a submersible pump, a surface pump is not used for deep tanks; it is more suitable for pumping water from a pool or basement when it is flooded. A hose for receiving dirty water is placed at the bottom of the container, the second hose is used to drain the drains.

If the pump is used in an emergency, it is appropriate to use a float device that will control the critical level of water rise. The plus is that the design of the mechanism allows you to pump liquid with large pieces of dirt - up to 5 cm (less often - 10 cm).

It is clear that the surface type aggregate differs in its structure. A working shaft and a wheel are fixed inside the metal case, and the motor can be different: for centrifugal products - single-phase with external ventilation, for self-priming products - asynchronous two-pole.

Despite the contamination of the pumping medium, do not allow the pump to operate with a liquid in which gasoline, kerosene or other oil products and chemicals are dissolved.

Both new equipment and those that have served for more than one year can break down. A newly purchased device may fail due to a manufacturing defect made during assembly: a damaged piston or an incorrectly connected valve. Often breakdowns occur due to inept installation, if:

• lowered the unit to an insufficient depth;
• allowed air to enter the water intake compartment;
• the water inlet is above the water and is not covered with liquid.

These flaws are easy to fix with a simple check, but it is better not to allow them.

Most often, problems arise during the operation of the equipment. The manufacturer sets the control parameters within which it is necessary to act (they are declared in the technical passport of the product). If the equipment is used incorrectly, not for its intended purpose, it simply will not withstand the load.

For example, it is normal for a drainage device to pump dirty water. This means that problems can arise if you start moving clean drinking water (for which borehole and well models are designed). On the contrary, too coarse dirt clogs the filters, as a result of which the pump stops working.

Also, troubles await if the equipment is idle, in "dry" mode - overheating will surely happen, which cannot always be corrected on your own. As a result of an oversight, the matter can end up in expensive service repairs.

Lack of prevention, rare technical inspections can also cause breakdown. Many troubles can be avoided by preventing them by replacing one of the parts or by elementary cleaning.

There are a number of possibilities to repair the equipment with your own hands, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure (for example, cleaning) can be performed. To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, make diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.

Available actions include replacing a capacitor, impeller or float, repairing an electrical cable, fixing a shock absorber, removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.

If the cast-iron body is cracked, the valve is out of order, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact the service center or think about buying a new pump. Inexpensive Chinese-made drainage devices are inexpensive, so ordering serious professional repairs is impractical.

The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection break, as a result of which the pump power is cut off.

It is necessary to find the break point and make the connection. This operation is easy to carry out if a break occurs near the plug - you just need to strip and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the place of work.

A broken cable in the area where the pump is connected will take longer to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection block. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.

The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or force. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension member, you will be able to see the cable and identify the area of ​​the break. We remove the worn-out piece, mount the cable in its original place, fasten the tensioning element, fix the bolts.

The engine is working properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether, or comes in in small, uneven jerks. There may be several reasons for the strange phenomenon:

• Part of the supply line is clogged. This is a branch pipe or supply pipe. There is a kind of blockage from bundles of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than the manufacturer's recommended length, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.
• The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. It is necessary to disassemble the device, replace parts, to begin with visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.
• The fluid is saturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
• Engine power has noticeably decreased. That can be determined even by the sound. Possible malfunctions in the supply of electricity, failure of bearings, depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to clarify the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.

The most common problem is filter clogging. You can try running some clean water through the pump to clean the sieve and suction port. If this procedure does not help, disassemble the case and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and chips.

When disassembling the unit, be sure to follow the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help to consistently remove parts, quickly find bolt attachment points. In some cases, wear on fasteners or loose nuts will cause parts to move, which will also affect the performance of the machine.

You connect the power supply - and the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Prepare to inspect all equipment. The most common causes of engine failure are:

• Disruption to the electricity supply due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of ​​connection to the pump, proceed as described above.
• The stator winding is out of order. Happens due to dry running. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.
• Seized bearing... We check the part for suitability, according to the results of diagnostics, we clean or replace it.
• The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grate, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.
• The float switch has broken. To check its functionality, it is necessary to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.

If the capacitor is out of order, replacement is required. In some models, special access is provided to it, which is a separate hole in the case.

When the pump is switched on to the network, it starts to work, however, after a while, it stops spontaneously. Most likely, a protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.

A heating cable may be the cause. It is worth checking the correspondence of the mains voltage and the parameters set by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.

Shutdown can also occur due to clogging of the blades with debris. In this case, we recommend that you carry out a complete cleaning procedure, that is, open the housing, clean the inner chambers and impeller, and check the filter.

If blockages occur frequently, re-read the instructions for the product to determine the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding

When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the details directly responsible for the wiring of electricity - the cable or the stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked with a tester; if a worn-out area is found, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the gap is near the end) shorten it.

Winding repair is a laborious task and requires special knowledge. Even with a neatly drawn secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you have no time to fiddle with a burnt-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.

As you can see, both inevitable wear and a violation of the rules for operating the equipment can become the cause of wear of parts. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the body so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not pick up coarse particles.

At least once a year, check the integrity of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventive cleaning, which will increase the life of the parts by several times. Do not confuse a drainage device with a faecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.

Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot yourself.

Overheating of the stator due to violation of the interval operation mode:

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