In detail: do-it-yourself ural repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Soviet heavy motorcycles Ural are a simple and unpretentious technique. You can even say reliable if you carefully monitor the motor. The boxer engine of this bike has a very primitive design, but it has a very small resource. Therefore, in order to move freely in the city and even at long distances, the engine should be regularly serviced. Below, we will tell you how to carry out troubleshooting, disassemble and replace the main elements of the engine, for the Ural models M-62, M-63, M-66, M-67, etc.
The most popular reason to repair a Ural motorcycle is considered to be insufficient motorcycle dynamics, smoke from the muffler, traction failures at high revs, and a decrease in maximum speed. The reasons that even inexperienced riders can note are the increased fuel and oil consumption. If such problems arise, it is not worth disassembling the engine right away, first you should check the ignition, then the carburetor settings, measure the compression and check the valve adjustment, and after eliminating all other problems, you should climb into the engine and repair the engine of the Ural motorcycle.
You may be interested in how to make tuning a Ural motorcycle. A detailed description of the possible directions for tuning the bike!
More experienced owners may suspect a problem from the sound of the engine. Specific noise gives rise to a number of problems that are determined with high precision.
There are also a number of reasons to repair the motor that are not related to its breakdown. For example, a motor can be sorted out during a long idle period, during restoration, after a long run, and so on.
The process of disassembling the motor is quite complicated, but it is more important that the existing clearances "go away". Thus, if you disassemble the motor and then assemble it without repair, there is a high probability that there will be third-party noises associated with an increase in clearances. Therefore, experienced locksmiths advise, first of all, to assess the condition of the motor without disassembling the main elements, or to carry out a partial analysis, then carry out a troubleshooting and, based on its results, decide whether to make repairs or not.
The malfunction can be identified "by ear" if:
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Video (click to play). |
- The engine sounds loudly during operation, in all speed ranges, and the ringing turns partially into loud noise when the engine is warm and at high speeds.
Cause: piston pin wear and excessive clearance between pin and bushing.
Solution: first of all, you can set a later ignition, in some cases this either completely eliminates the noise, or it becomes insignificant, which allows you to use the motorcycle for some time. If this does not help, then the old fingers are replaced with new ones, as well as the connecting rod bushings with their subsequent development.
The motor is ringing, tapping is slightly audible, the sound is dull, amplifying under load and at high revs.
Cause: the appearance of a gap between the pin and the piston boss.
Solution: replacement of the finger + piston set with new ones of the same group.
The motor knocks metal on metal at idle, and at high speeds there is a strong ringing and vibration.
Cause: clearance between piston and cylinder.
Solution: selection of a new piston of the next overhaul size and cylinder bore for a new piston group.
A dull knock in the crankcase area, clearly audible at idle and when the gas is dumped.
Cause: such a sound may indicate an increase in the gap between the lower head of the connecting rod and the crank pin of the crankshaft.
The behavior of the motorcycle reveals the following problems:
- Heavy oil consumption, loss of power and excessive exhaust fumes.
Cause: wear of piston rings.
Solution: complete replacement of piston rings, and in the presence of damage to the plane of the cylinder - its boring, with subsequent repair.
The owners of the Ural motorcycle most often face such problems. As you can see, most of the problems are diagnosed by craftsmen "by ear", and despite all the primitiveness, the result is very accurate. Assuming the problem of the motor, you should stock up on a set of necessary pullers, keys and repair parts and only then proceed to disassembly.
Repair of the Ural motorcycle should be carried out in stages. The first step is to prepare your garage and the motor itself. All dirt and oil should be washed from the engine so that they do not get inside. The laid film will help to save the garage floor, because it is easier to throw out a piece of cellophane than to remove the remaining grease from the garage floor.
Disassembly process:
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We unscrew the nuts holding the cylinder cover and remove it. Next, we unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder head, remove the rocker arms, rods into the box and pull the head off the studs.
Following this diagram, you can get to the main parts of the motor in order to carry out a full diagnosis of the gaps and, if necessary, replace the parts with new ones. It is worth noting that if the part has a gap close to wear, then it is better to replace it, since most of the new parts lead to an increased load on the entire motor while running in. Such increased pressure on old components can lead to wear and tear, which means the appearance of noise.
We advise you to carry out a comprehensive renovation before the start of the season. This approach will allow you to get rid of all the problems with mismatching gaps and skate several seasons without worries. Otherwise, the motorcycle engine may break down during the high season and permanently deprive you of the ability to move on two wheels.
After the repair, the assembly should be carried out, based on the above described diagram, it is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that not only the repair itself, but also the accuracy of the assembly affects the reliability of the motor. Often, owners complain that the engine works even worse than before the repair, forgetting that the reason for this behavior of the engine was precisely poor-quality repairs.
After the engine is assembled, check the ignition adjustments, carburetor settings and valve clearances. If everything is in order, you can start the engine and make adjustments to the settings at idle and on the move. Remember to run in new parts. Correctly worn-in parts are less likely to fail over the course of the season. If everything was done correctly, then the repair of the Ural motorcycle will pleasantly surprise you, first of all, with improved acceleration, response to gas and maximum speed.
Many motorcycle owners take on the alteration of their iron horses, trying to give them individuality.At the same time, the final result obtained due to the changes introduced is far from always satisfactory. A striking example of this is the legendary Ural motorcycle, tuning of which is fraught with certain difficulties. Due to the significant prices for components, such an operation will cost more than, for example, tuning IZH 5 Jupiter.
The products of the Irbit Motorcycle Plant are well known not only in our country. Various models, whose design originates from the pre-war BMW R71, have retained the parental genes for seventy years. True, the prefix "Ural" appeared in their name a little later. Since 1961, it has been assigned to the following modifications:
- M-62 (1961 - 1963).
- M-63 (1963 - 1971) - this was the so-called Ural-2.
- M-66 (1973 - 1975) received the Ural-3 marking.
Further, it was decided to confine itself to the name Ural, removing the additional digital index and leaving only the factory designation.
- M-67 (1973 - 1976).
- M-67-36 (1976 - 1983).
- IMZ-8 (this model has been produced since 1985 and has many different versions).
And that's not counting special versions and limited editions. But in the process of tuning a motorcycle, any of the listed modifications have a lot in common. Despite the name change, all models are similar in design and have similar technical characteristics.
Alteration of new equipment is not very financially justified. It is cheaper to buy a used, or even out of order, copy, and first restore it. If you get your hands on a rare copy of the Ural motorcycle, restoration and repair of the rarity will pay more dividends than the most advanced tuning. Indeed, in this way, we restore and bring history itself back to life.
If the model is an ordinary one, then there will be nothing wrong with turning an ordinary Ural into a tuned one. In any case, the first step will be to restore the Ural motorcycle to a working condition.
Having set the goal of tuning the Ural motorcycle with your own hands, it is important to understand that there are relatively painless alterations that do not require documentary confirmation to register the vehicle and undergo a technical inspection.
And there are changes that, in order not to conflict with the law, have to be coordinated with the manufacturer or other regulatory authorities. Based on this, tuning for a Ural motorcycle should be divided into two categories:
- Painless, after which there will be no additional paper problems.
- Complex, ideally requiring formal paper approval.
Let's consider each of these categories separately.
It should not be assumed that any painless tuning for a Ural motorcycle will be easily accomplished. But, as they say, hunting is worse than bondage. For clarity, we will divide the possible alterations into external and internal ones. The outer ones are aimed at correcting the veteran's appearance, while the inner ones will affect his driving qualities and technical characteristics.
Classic forms, characteristic of all without changing models, go well with an abundance of chrome details. Since chromium has good anti-corrosion resistance, it is not forbidden to use it even in the most unexpected places. After such processing, many details will look good:
- Front and rear fenders.
- Fuel tank.
- Side panels.
- Crankcase, cylinders and cylinder heads of the engine.
- Frame and suspension elements.
But if there is no opportunity or desire to engage in chrome plating, an alternative can be a high-quality painting of the Ural motorcycle. There will be plenty of room to turn around, especially if you have a stroller modification.
Quite good results can be achieved by installing fenders of a different style and size, a different fuel tank, safety arches and even optics. Improvements loved by many - the installation of a high steering wheel and new control levers, alteration of the seat, without the correct approach, worsen the rider's position, making it less comfortable.Such changes should be made with caution.
Many owners start tuning the Urals for the sake of improving the technical characteristics of the motorcycle. Despite some orthodoxy in the design of the engine and gearbox, there is a lot to turn around here. The following steps can be taken:
- Installation of support bearings of the crankshaft (crank), the quality of which is better than that of the standard ones. It is not recommended to reduce the size of the bearing journals themselves. After all, this removes the thermally treated layer and decreases the strength of critical elements.
- Reduced weight on pistons and connecting rods. The excess mass of these parts leads to an increase in the moment of inertia and a decrease in engine power. Even by simply removing the injection molding, you can significantly reduce the weight and increase the effective output of the power unit.
- Align and sand inlet and outlet ports. Lapping valves. Such procedures will improve the filling of the cylinders with a combustible mixture.
- Manufacturing a new camshaft with a different cam profile, allowing you to change the valve timing. This is a complex engine tuning that requires special knowledge.
- Installing new carburetors. A well-proven measure that allows you to get rid of the overclocking failure characteristic of all IMZ models without exception. This is due to the fact that the manufacturer completes the equipment with variable discharge carburetors, which are poorly suited for four-stroke motorcycle engines.
This can be eliminated by equipping the motorcycle with suitable constant vacuum carburetors. Both Mikuni and Keihin have such models. To optimize the work, it will be necessary to adjust the flow area of the nozzles. Ideally, such revision is carried out at a special stand. In the absence of such, it remains to be content with a fit in road conditions. After such a modernization of the engine, the Ural will accelerate much more confidently.
Whether you make all the upgrades, or just a few, in any case, tuning the Ural motorcycle engine will be fully justified.
As you might guess, external changes are not included in this category. But the internal ones are quite enough. Performing tuning with their own hands, some owners make adjustments to the design of the motorcycle that are unacceptable by law.
- Installation of new mufflers. Despite the seeming simplicity, such modernization requires documentary approval. Otherwise, it will not be possible to officially pass the technical inspection.
- Alteration of the frame. Influencing the strength of the structure, such tuning for a Ural motorcycle requires preliminary calculations, the results of which have been confirmed by specialists.
- Changes to the braking system. In this case, problems during technical inspection will not be limited. For unauthorized alteration of brakes, the law provides not even a fine, but a real term. If you are tuning a Ural motorcycle with your own hands and decide to replace the brake drums with more efficient discs, then you must agree on such changes with IMZ representatives, having received documented permission from them.
If this is your first time rebuilding a motorcycle, you might want to experiment with a simpler model first. For example, to perform tuning Voskhod 3M - an interesting and very popular model at one time, produced in Kovrov. Thus, you will approach work on the Urals with some experience already. This will avoid annoying mistakes.
The Ural motorcycle has been in the garage since 1998. The motorcycle is separate, the engine is separate, the gearbox is generally in a different corner. On this motorcycle, all my childhood passed, after buying a car, they forgot about it. And so I decided to restore it ...
At first it was decided to deal with the engine, as according to the owner - the crankshaft knocked. Therefore, they immediately began to disassemble the engine.
He took off the heads, checked the piston clearances in the cylinders, everything was fine, only there was a rusty emulsion in the right cylinder - apparently moisture got in. Fortunately, the cylinder mirror was not damaged.
I checked the gaps on the fingers - everything is within normal limits. I pressed out the fingers, marked where the right and where the left parts of the cylinders and put them aside.
Then he began to disassemble the clutch to remove the flywheel. A simple screwdriver and hammer blows failed to unscrew the screws the first time. There is no point in buying an impact screwdriver for one time. He turned on ingenuity. And so the engine from the frontal side pressed in the opening of the garage door, and pressed the screwdriver to the bolt with the help of a bar and a jack, with a gas wrench tore off the nakernya influx of metal. And then everything unscrewed without problems. He took off the clutch and proceeded to disassemble the frontal part, since there was no 36 socket wrench at hand to unscrew the flywheel.
Everything is easy to understand in the frontal part, the lid is unscrewed, the ignition is removed, the ignition coil is removed, then the lobe is unscrewed. He unscrewed two bolts that hold the camshaft, put two assemblies under the camshaft gear through rags. And pulled out the camshaft with the gear. On examination, the development in the timing gears was not found. The bearing is also in excellent condition. I fixed the pushers with electrical tape so that they would not fall into the crankcase and not get mixed up.
Then I went to a friend and took from him a three-legged puller and a socket wrench for 36. He unscrewed the bolts that hold the crankshaft main bearing in front. And as in the video, I decided to take the pressure washer with the puller, since the puller legs do not fit under the gear. Result - the gear is removed, the hold-down washer is bent and torn. Conclusion, it was necessary to tie the gear with steel wire and pull on it. For the future, it will be a lesson.
After disassembling the timing, he proceeded to the flywheel. For a flywheel, a key is needed so that the working edge is immediately, and not, like most heads, a little deepened, since the flywheel bolt has thin edges. To fix the flywheel, I used a 12 key and inserted one end into the clutch bolt, and the other into the stud securing the box to the engine. I must say right away that it is better not to do this, since I bent the hairpin. It is better to take an open-end wrench for 19, insert one end into the flywheel hole, the other into the bar, which needs to be stuck in the eyes for attaching the engine to the frame. Which was done when assembling the flywheel.
When I unscrewed the flywheel bolt, I pulled off the flywheel using a puller. Then, having unscrewed 9 bolts that hold the rear cover of the main bearing, using the same puller, removed the cover itself. And then the reason for the knocking crankshaft was revealed - the main bearing cage crumbled.
To remove the crankshaft, you need to dismantle the oil pump. To do this, I drained the oil, unscrewed the pan. He unscrewed the top cover of the oil pump, took out the gear. From the bottom of the pallet, I removed the pump mesh and unscrewed it together with the bar, which would not allow removing the crankshaft.
Using a wooden mandrel and a hammer, I removed the front main bearing. To do this, put the engine on the floor with its back side.I put a wooden mandrel against the front shank of the crankshaft and, with gentle and not strong blows of a hammer on the mandrel, knocked the crankshaft out of the front main bearing.
Then, in order to pull the crankshaft out of the engine, I took it by two connecting rods and gave it a position in which the connecting rods were at bottom dead center, then twisted it a little inside, pulled it out through the back cover, and put it in place in the reverse order.
Steel wire was used to clean the front crankshaft oil separator from slag, and from the rear oil separator I took out almost the entire main bearing separator. The crankshaft itself had no excess wear. I washed the engine inside with solarium to remove the chips that formed during operation.
Found bearings 207, and assembly began. First of all, I put the crankshaft inside, I can't explain exactly how it falls through, well, a few manipulations and he's there. It did not work the first time, because the connecting rods did not spread correctly, and the right connecting rod ended up in the left window, and the left in the right, I had to pull it out again and put it back in place.
Then, heating the main bearings with a gas burner, I installed them in place. Finally, they fall into place when you put the pressure washer in place in front (it was replaced with a new one, the old one did not begin to be restored). And behind the back cover. To do this, first they are upset with long bolts, and then native bolts are put in their place. I put the back cover on a sealant so as not to suffer with cutting out a new gasket.
When assembling the back cover, while tightening one of the bolts, it broke off. I had to drill a hole in the broken bolt. I tried to unscrew it first, but it didn’t work, so I drilled out a larger hole and cut a new thread. For the future, these bolts need to be changed to new ones, since they tend to break off when tightened.
After that, I installed the timing gears, do not forget about the lock washers. I did not use the thread lock, but cotted the bolts with wire. Since this is my first assembly and disassembly of the Ural engine, I suddenly have to disassemble it again.
The timing gears are placed strictly according to the label. Next, a breather is placed, on top of the forehead, I fasten it with bolts. I install the ignition in place, approximately according to the marks as it stood. After that, I installed the rear main bearing oil seal. I installed it at the last moment, only after everything was assembled and checked. In order not to disassemble it once again, rubber products do not like this.
I took an oil seal from a repair kit purchased back in the "dashing 90s", it's good that it survived.
Replaced the oil pump. I installed the flywheel, screwed it up. Assembled the clutch. Since there were no long bolts or studs at hand, in order to install the clutch like a book, I had to press on the disks with my knee and tighten them with my own bolts "cross to cross". This suggests once again that Soviet equipment can be repaired in the field as well.
I installed the pistons and cylinders, the engine was fixed on the motorcycle frame. The iron bushings on the engine mounting studs should be on the left. I started to put the box, it did not climb at first. After the first pushes of the kickstarter, the clutch discs clicked, the gearbox shaft went into both discs and the gearbox fell into place. And dances began with a tambourine to start it.
I think it's not a problem to get spare parts for the Ural motorcycle. Since even Aliexpress has spare parts for our Ural motorcycle. And also, in addition to spare parts, there are a bunch of "goodies" for Soviet motorcycles, thanks to which the scooter will look vintage.
The main advantage of domestic boxer engines is their relative simplicity. The rule here is that the fewer parts, the less the likelihood of breakage and, accordingly, further repair.But even with such a simplicity of the engine device, it is necessary to have basic knowledge of the design and sequence of operations for diagnosing and disassembling and repairing the engine of the Ural motorcycle.
As a rule, the need for repairs is associated with a deterioration in engine performance in various modes, with an increase in oil and gasoline consumption, with overheating, with the appearance of extraneous noise, or with a drop in maximum speed.
The most difficult operation is to diagnose engine malfunctions by differentiating noise and knocking. The most common problems can be identified by the nature of the noise being emitted. A sharp, clear metallic knock occurs when there is excessive clearance between the piston pin and the upper connecting rod head. This defect is eliminated when cleaning accumulated carbon deposits from the cylinder head and determining the actual gap between the defective pin and the connecting rod head hole (the maximum allowable gap is up to 0.03 mm). The defective bushing is replaced with a new one, with drilled holes in the holes in the connecting rod, after which the grooves are stamped, as on the old bushing, then the hole diameter is brought to the required value using a reamer. After that, according to the actual size of the hole made, a finger is selected.
The presence of a gap between the defective pin and the piston block bosses is approximately also manifested. The difference lies in the fact that with such a defect, the knocking is well heard on the most heated engine, and it will sound more dull. The allowable wear gap for this fault must not exceed 1 µm.
The presence of a gap between the piston and the cylinder walls is detected by an abrupt sharp metal knock on a poorly warmed-up engine with idle speed. If, in the process of warming up the engine, the knocking gradually fades away, becomes more muffled and finally disappears, then the gap is within the tolerance range - does not exceed 20 microns.
The process of wear of piston rings, as a rule, is accompanied by a decrease in compression in the engine cylinder, leads to wear of the cylinder walls and increases oil consumption. All this leads to a drop in engine power and the appearance of carbon deposits in the internal combustion chamber, its concentration on the surface of the piston head and accumulation in the grooves. The working life of the piston rings, even with the most extreme operating parameters, exceeds 8 thousand km. The wear of the piston rings is accompanied by an increase in the clearance in the lock. It is recommended to replace all rings with new ones every 15 thousand km in case of removing the cylinder.
A dull, mid-tone knock appears when there is a gap in the junction of the lower connecting rod head and the crankshaft crank pin. It is clearly audible, as a rule, when the engine is idling, in its middle part. The gap normally should not exceed 10 microns at the time of movement of the lower head of the connecting rod along the center line relative to the position of the pin.
A low dull sound occurs on a warm engine with a sharp increase in gas. The reason for this is the wear of the main bearings. The permissible shaft play in the main bearings is no more than 10 microns. The admissibility of further operation of the crankshaft is made taking into account the limiting value of the backlash of the connecting rods in relation to the crank and the nature of the sound of the beating of the trunnions. The increased runout of the trunnions leads to premature wear of the main bearings. This defect can be eliminated with the centers and indicators of the lathe.
Stages of disassembly of the Ural motorcycle engine:
1. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder cover and carefully remove it. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder head, put the rocker arms, rods, remove the head from the studs.
2. Unscrew the nuts securing the cylinder, gradually moving the cylinder along the studs.
3. Remove the retaining rings. Remove the piston pin with a puller.
4.Unscrew the fastening screws at the timing cover and remove the crankcase cover.
5. Remove the screws securing the camshaft flange. Remove the plug of the upper part of the crankcase and remove the oil pump drive gear.
6. Remove the camshaft using the mounting blades.
7. Bend the lock washer, unscrew the camshaft gear fastening screw (on the crankshaft journal). Remove the pinion using the mounting blades.
8. Unscrew the screws from the clutch pack.
9. Mark the clutch discs relative to the flywheel.
10. Remove the bolt securing the flywheel to the crankshaft.
11. Remove the flywheel from the tapered part of the crankshaft.
12. Unscrew the securing bolts of the rear main bearing housing, remove the housing.
13. Remove the retaining bolts and separate the engine tray. Remove strainer and oil pump.
14. Press the crankshaft out of the front bearing and remove it from the crankcase.
Each operation for disassembling the engine and reassembling it is accompanied by the displacement of the worn-in parts, which leads to its premature intensive wear. Therefore, the Ural motorcycle engine should be repaired only if it is really necessary and only after an accurate diagnosis.
Insufficient synchronization in engine operation means that one of the cylinders is showing more intensive work than the other. This can lead to the fact that the cylinder, which shows more powerful work, can very quickly wear out and fail. Do-it-yourself Ural engine repair. The timing of the carburetors is clearly visible when the motorcycle is idling. Synchronization of motorcycle carburettors occurs when the same operation of two cylinders is provided. Simply put, a motorcycle carburetor synchronizer is obtained by raising the throttle, both in the left and in the right carburetor, by switching ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the fork clearance is a fairly simple, but very important task in repair work. You can watch a video on fork repair in the Urals. In view of the fact that the wheel suspension on Dnepr motorcycles is made in the form of a telescopic fork, its correct adjustment will provide the necessary fork outreach for the normal movement of the motorcycle. Dismantling the front fork of the Dnepr motorcycle, like the Dnepr motorcycle, shows that a shock absorber is located inside the fork itself, and the distance between the upper part of the spring and the locknut is approximately 0.4 mm. The motorcycle fork is adjusted as follows: dismantle the front wheel, then unscrew the nut that secures the pipes to the motorcycle structure. We take out of this pipe ... >>> Read more
Adjusting the carburetors of the Ural and Dnepr motorcycle is not difficult, like the repair itself, but important. The brands, appearance, structure and details in motorcycles change from year to year. Including evolution affects carburetors, the constant improvement of which does not take long. I wonder where the carburetor is on the motorcycle?
The carburetor as a structural element is intended for mixing gasoline with air, as well as for the subsequent supply of an appropriate amount of it to the carburetors on the Dnepr motorcycle engine cylinder. The regulation process itself can be ... >>> Read more
During the life of the motorcycle, there is a possibility that the valves will need to be replaced. Lapping the valves in the Ural Motorcycle is an important matter. The question may arise, how to grind valves on a Dnepr motorcycle? The process of replacing the valve itself involves preliminary cleaning the cylinder head to such a state that it is possible to achieve the maximum tightness of its fit to the seat. These early tricks are essential for the correct operation of the engine.
To carry out this operation - cleaning the cylinder head, a certain algorithm of actions should be followed, step by step following it. First, the spring is put on the valve. The size of the spring is required to be able to cope with ... >>> Read more
The most important point in which the adjustment of the valves of the Dnepr motorcycle and others lies is the correct setting of the clearances. If you overdid it a little and the gap turned out to be large, then there will be a clinking at the heads, if, on the contrary, the gap turned out to be too small, then the rods may begin to bend. The adjustment of the valves on the Dnepr motorcycle should be done after each manipulation of the assembly of the cylinders and heads, which must be securely fastened and tightened. Many people ask themselves how to set the valve to ... >>> Read more
Checking the ignition system, first of all, occurs from the initial check of the breaker performance. It is important to pay attention to the operation of the incendiary advance machine, in which the presence of various complaints is undesirable. The resistance of the primary winding, which is measured by the tester, must be at least 6 ohms. Next, the secondary winding is checked, for which the tester is connected to high voltage connections. The voltage of such a winding must be exactly ... >>> Read more
Repair and adjustment of ignition on a motorcycle Dnipro
Before starting all the manipulations to adjust the candles, you should pay attention to their external condition. They must be clean, without the slightest deposit of carbon deposits. Next, we make adjustments by alternately bending or unbending the candle contacts. With these actions, we reach the desired 0.5 mm in diameter - this is exactly the gap we need.
As in the case with candles, pay attention to the state of the breaker contacts. If there is any dirt on them ... >>> Read more
As soon as you are faced with the problem of lack of charging, you should not rush to dispose of the generator. The implementation of fairly simple, but effective methods will allow you to reanimate the generator without additional financial costs. By adhering to simple rules, you can quite effectively repair the device on your own.
First of all, you will need to dismantle the generator parts and clean them of dirt... This is followed by a check of the condition of the ball-type bearings: a test for the engagement of the armature to the stator. The course of the brushes must be free in the places where the brushes are held. The next stage - the production of rings is checked ... >>> Read more
Often, watching the engine overrun by my friends, it is not uncommon for a problem situation to arise: when I have already coped with the removal of parts from the engine and all that remains is to remove the crankshaft, unfortunately, this cannot be done. In reality, it is really difficult to remove it, and especially when there is no clear idea of how to implement it. In order to avoid this kind of problem, I will try to explain how to cope with the crankshaft.
To remove the crankshaft, you will need the following:
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The quality of the clutch is important for a motorcycle. This will require correct adjustment of the drive train. When the drive cable is taut enough, then the slipping of the clutch will be traced, if on the contrary - therefore the clutch is leading.
In the event of a failure of the functioning of the starting device, as a rule, due to the breakdown of the starting spring or its exit from the place of the sleeve. In this situation, the clutch of a motorcycle Ural lever will not return automatically to its initial position, however, it can easily be resorted to a mechanical method of lifting up ... >>> Read more
Once you are faced with the problem of unsatisfactory gear shifting, then you should be on your guard. Probably, this can be attributed to the breakage of the gears of the box.... When the latter is not a problem, then you can turn to the adjustment of the gearbox with the screws located on the box near the base of the lever.
Here you shouldn't panic and rush to turn the screws.However, checking the condition of the balls and holes for the nature of breakdowns is still worth organizing a gearbox for a Ural motorcycle, do not forget to look at the health of the shift sector. If the situation inspires confidence in the reliability, then ... >>> Read more
As the saying goes, "We are responsible for what we have tamed."
The situation is the same with a motorcycle. Like any other technical device, the vehicle will require service. As a rule, services of this nature will be required every 2 thousand kilometers.
Services of a service nature can be performed, as a rule, at a service station, but it is always possible to perform them yourself. However, for this ... >>> Read more
It is often not uncommon when, during the operation of a two-wheeled friend, problems of various types are noticed in his work, for example, knocking, then you should not be afraid. The best solution in this situation is to carefully read the options below to fix the problem. The knocking pattern can be described as metallic or dry. The appearance of knocking can be triggered by starting the engine of the Dnieper motorcycle and decreasing as it warms up. This knock also appears in a situation where fingers are caught at the top ... >>> Read more
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Video (click to play). |
It is not uncommon for your "iron Horse" does not function as expected by the manufacturing plant, or even worse - refuses to work at all. However, "does not work" - the concept is quite cumulative, or as they say, the motorcycle does not start "every family is unhappy in its own way ...". In this regard, let's analyze problems of various kinds for faults ... >>> Read more
