Iron braun DIY repair

In detail: iron braun do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Iron Braun SI 6595 FreeStyle has proven itself very well. This model has an automatic shutdown function (with no movement in vertical and horizontal position). So, this is a very convenient and necessary thing, however, it is this automation unit, in the main, that is the cause of the iron malfunction. The main symptoms - first, turn off the iron when ironing, tapping on the body or vigorous shaking is required. Then it stops turning on altogether, while the indicator just blinks. The reason for this is sticking of the motion sensor, possibly burning of relay contacts or malfunction of elements of the automation board.

The first way out is to take it to the service center.
I note that replacing this block will pull at least half the cost of the iron, possibly more. If the iron has served for more than one year, this is a rather expensive pleasure, given that the rest of the parts (rubber cuffs, etc.) are also worn out and there is no confidence in how long the iron will serve you. But the iron itself, if you remove the automation unit, will work normally, turn off by temperature and steam, with the exception of auto-off functions. If you are willing to sacrifice it, then here is how to do it.

Same model, only BRAUN TexStyle 540 it does not have this function initially (not 100% - judging by information from the Internet). When deciding on self-repair, you must understand what you are doing, since the safety of using this model decreases.

So let's start disassembly (repair) of the Braun 540 SI 6595 FreeStyle iron

Video (click to play).

First, remove the back cover by unscrewing two bolts.

Then you need to remove the white cover that goes from the back of the iron to the regulator. About 3-4 centimeters from the back wall, we pry it with a screwdriver (we will see a groove there) and it can be easily removed. Remove the temperature regulator knob (pry it off with a slotted screwdriver, slightly). ATTENTION! There is a spring (for the ratchet), do not lose it when turning the iron. Now we can see the whole economy from behind.

Next, we remove the control unit and the connector on the heating element (it is closed with a white cap, for which, in fact, the control unit is held. We will have to make a little effort, push the heater connector back). Because the conductors of the supply cable are soldered in the block, then after the connector has been slightly moved from its place, they will also be pulled. There is no need to unscrew the screws holding the power cable.

Now you need to remove the indicator along with the power cable. If you look inside, the transparent indicator body is held by two latches from the iron body. We release the latches one by one (for this we squeeze them in depth with a long thin screwdriver) and pull the indicator back. Now you can take out all the electronic stuffing.

The body, in principle, can be further disassembled, for further acquaintance (you need to remove the front cover of the splash guard, remove the tube and unscrew the TORX T20 self-tapping screw, then there are 2 body latches behind the iron, release them and the plastic body is removed completely from the sole of the iron). Or you may not disassemble.

Now why is it disconnecting. If you look at the control unit (filled with compound), then on the left (if you look from the back of the iron) you will see a white parallelepiped. Here it needs to be opened. Dig out the compound and see that the lid is held by the protrusions from the ends. There will be a roller inside, which should move FREELY along the contact rails. It is necessary to remember its position after opening. Then clean it and at the same time the contacts inside the case (this is a horizontal position sensor).

When I took it apart, it turned out that the entire video was covered in some kind of paraffin and the contacts were dirty. The most important thing is its MOBILITY in the body. After that, I put everything in place, put it together, and the iron began to continue working. This is how I managed to do it. Poking around with him for a long time, several hours. Either it’s not the sensor, but the unit, it’s easier to put a new one for repair. Although I dig deeper (I cleaned the entire compound), I found a microcircuit, a relay, several transistors, etc., etc. So I don't recommend picking the compound further, except near the sensor.

This method - picking the compound - is not always and not always successful for everyone. There are easier ways

- bite the white wire closer to the block and connect it to the brown one. Do not bite off the brown one, just peel and connect, then you can wrap it with heat shrink tape. In this case, we do not throw the block away - we use it to operate the LED.

- if the LED does not work or incomprehensible sounds are heard in the unit - breakdown or the relay rattles, bite it off completely. We connect the white and brown wires. Everything will work except for the indicator. We connect the terminals from the indicator board to the leftmost (when viewed from the top from the back of the iron) contact through a 200-300 kOhm series resistor and the second output to the rightmost connector. Without a resistor, the LED will immediately burn out, since we connect it to 220V. Everything, the iron is working, the power indicator too. Resistor and connections can be soldered and packaged in heat shrink tubing. We no longer use the automation unit. We collect Braun SI 6595 FreeStyle iron after repair in reverse order. The iron works fine further, with the exception of the auto-shutdown chip when idle - we sacrifice this - not the most terrible and necessary in the function of the iron.

If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.

Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:

Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.

General device of the electric iron

After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.

For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.

Tools you may need when repairing your iron

All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.

The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches.So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.

Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.

In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.

Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron

As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.

Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.

To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons

Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts. They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.

There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.

If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table) into a bowl with low boron (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.

Cleaning the steam vents on the iron

Put the container with the iron on fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.

Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.

The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains.Cover the sole with tape so that water does not seep out, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour hot water with vinegar or citric acid inside the sole, let it cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.

In this article I will tell you how to disassemble a Brown Texstyle 7 iron that has stopped heating up. The problem may be in the heating element, thermostat, thermal fuse or residual current device.We are trying to disassemble. Remove the rubber plug that hides the two bolts.We see the "tricky PIN-Torx bolts". As you can see, it is not so easy to disassemble textyle 7.I managed to unscrew them with a thin slotted screwdriver. The indicator screwdriver came up in size.It needs to be inserted into the bolt in the way shown in the picture below.And by pressing, trying to unscrew it counterclockwise, sooner or later you will succeed. There is a more expensive option - to buy a special. tool. But I think it's not advisable for the sake of one time. Unscrew and remove the back cover of the iron.
We see a residual current device in front of us, this is a feature of the braun texstyle 7 iron. As stated by the manufacturer, the brown texstyle 7 has an automatic shutdown function (in the horizontal position, the switched on iron will turn off after 30 seconds, in the vertical position it will turn off after 8 minutes). We take it off.
A bolt is also hidden in the spout.Remove the plastic top with a handle. We see metal clamps in front of us, they must be bent in order to remove the plastic casing. Image - Iron braun DIY repair

We take it off. Now everything is visible and accessible.

We call the circuit of the thermostat and thermostat using a multimeter, both of them are in good condition. Now it's the ten's turn, we call the 2 extreme contacts. It should show a small resistance, about 50 ohms, it all depends on the power of the iron. In my case, the tester showed one, this indicates that the ten has burned out.

The new ten is sold with a sole, and is not cheap. It is worth assessing whether it is necessary to change it or whether it is easier to buy a new iron.

Scale is the scourge of steam irons. She does not spare any model. As a result, there is such a need for how to descale the iron. You can, of course, use the advice and pour citric acid or something of that kind inside the device. But no means will give such an effect as disassembling the braun iron in this case and its further preventive cleaning. Moreover, it is not so difficult to perform such an operation on your own. And also this operation and the implementation of preventive work is carried out in such a way that as a result, in addition to scale, the pile in the iron is also removed, which accumulates under the plastic case on the metal parts.

How to disassemble a Brown Freestyle iron

The first step is to unscrew the bolts holding the rear cover. They are star-shaped and have a pin in the center. If you don't have a bit with a hole in the center at hand, you can drill the pin with a drill using a regular star bit.

The back cover can be removed without effort and provides access to the electronic control unit and the terminal block. We take out the entire electrical equipment along with the wire and LED indicators.

To do this, you will have to make some effort, but you definitely do not need to unscrew anything. It is enough to unlock the latches visible to the eye.

When the electronic unit and the contact strip are removed, further disassembly of the brown iron continues by removing the decorative strip on the top of the device. It is fastened with two latches, which are clearly visible in the resulting cavity.

If it is not removed at this stage, assembly will be extremely difficult.

Next, remove the filler cap and the spray bottle on the front of the iron. These parts are simply removed, for which you need to carefully pry them off with a flat screwdriver.

Another bolt is accessible under the sprayer. This is an asterisk again, but without a pin in the center. After unscrewing it, the lower part of the iron is simply and effortlessly detached from the upper part. It has latches, but they open easily.

Then you should separate the metal sole from the lower plastic part. To do this, turn the metal tabs counterclockwise using pliers.

Descaling your iron

The floor is done. How to disassemble a brown iron - understandable! You can start cleaning it. You can prepare the descaling solution yourself. To do this, pour hot water into a plastic or metal ENAMELED container, or a container made of STAINLESS steel, add acetic or citric acid to it. The concentration should be such that when the sole of the iron is immersed in the solution, bubbles of carbon dioxide should start to evolve almost immediately, which indicates a violent reaction. The acid dissolves limescale, it becomes more porous and brittle. The same solution should be poured into the hole at the top of the soleplate of the iron.

After a couple of hours, you can drain the solution and thoroughly rinse the soleplate under running water. It will be seen how limescale flakes are removed from the holes along with water.

Having disassembled the iron to such a state, it is imperative to get rid of the lint that has accumulated on the metal parts inside the iron. For this, the parts should be rinsed with running water, you can use a brush, but most often this is not necessary.

The iron is assembled in the reverse order. The main thing is to make sure that there are no unnecessary details left!

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To fix an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering the device of the iron, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or a heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional units.

In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:

heater;
plug with cord;
thermal fuse;
Temperature regulator.

In order for the iron to start working, you should apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as "Roventa", powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the appliance will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing.

In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermal mode depends on the iron's thermostat, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need values of 200 C. In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.

An important unit for ensuring safety is a fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.

Before you repair the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cable. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.

Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may break and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong clap, shutdown of other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.

For women who are particularly sensitive, situations like this hurt to the core.They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond with calls to their husbands, to the Emergencies Ministry and house management. The most correct option is the first, because any man whose hands grow from where they should be can make the iron turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the thing for repair.

The internet is filled with videos on the topic of ironing repairs. Many plots are devoted to the flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, you cannot do without disassembly. To make, for example, repair the Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean up problem areas.

The heating element in modern designs is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to get a new iron. But first, you should make sure that the problem is in the heating element.In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is associated with the heating element.The most common cause of heating element failure is coil rupture. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device terminals at the connection points.On some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in the other. If the fuse is faulty, then a false "diagnosis" can be made, suspecting that the heating element is malfunctioning. To find out exactly the reason for the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.