In detail: iron philips do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
An electric iron is one of the most important and simply necessary appliances for life in the house. The progress of human development has stepped forward significantly and now you can quickly and comfortably iron any clothing, regardless of the nature of its material.
But along with this, it happens that problems arise, since the technique may stop working. And therefore you need to know what is the reason, how to fix the malfunction yourself. Experts believe that 80% of problems can be fixed on their own.
First, we will consider and get acquainted with the design of the irons.
So, the main elements are a heating element, a soleplate, an on indicator and a thermostat. Teng is a spiral that heats up when electricity is supplied to the iron. And already this spiral heats up the sole. The indicator is on and indicates that the iron is connected and in working order.
The device heats up to the desired temperature and the indicator automatically turns off and the light of the lamp goes out. There are two lights on the iron: green and red.
How to repair a Philips iron
In this case, green indicates that power is connected to the device. And the red one indicates the operation of the heating element, lit - works, off - off. The thermostat regulates the ironing temperature and can be controlled on the device body.
All devices also have a fuse that turns off the heating element if it happens that the thermostat does not work and the temperature does not fall, but rises. When the temperature drops to a minimum, the thermostat turns on again and the electric current flows to the heating element coil.
Video (click to play).
When your iron malfunctioned and stopped working, it is important not to rush to buy a new one, but throw away the problematic iron as unnecessary. In most cases, the device can be brought back to working order and the breakdown can be corrected. Only if the heating element of the iron burns out, then nothing can be done and you need to buy a new one. But this does not happen often.
What do you need to cook next when repairing the iron? It is good if the house has several screwdrivers and a device called a tester, as well as a work lamp with a good battery. You may need to disassemble the device case.
The first step is to find the screws that hold the chassis and sole in place. The screws are usually located under special plugs, a container where water is. It is important to be careful not to break the latches of the parts.
The first step is to check if the light on the indicator is on. If not, the problem is with the iron cord. To repair it, you need to remove the back cover and check the connection of the power cable, it may be that some contact is poorly connected.
Then you can use a conventional tester and check the cable is working properly. One end to the power plug and the other to the wires inside the chassis. If it doesn't work, then cut off 4-6 centimeters of the wire. Attach one end of the tester and the light bulb to the plug, and to the other end - the battery.
If the light is off, then there is something wrong with the cord. You can still cut it off and try again by connecting the tester. In the end, it may be that the cord is not suitable and needs to be replaced. If the light is on after checking, then this means that the problem is not in the cord and therefore it will be necessary to disassemble the iron further, other parts.
Another popular problem that lies in wait for iron owners is the malfunction of the thermostat. The temperature controller is based on a bimetallic plate. This plate is needed for the operation of the high-speed circuit breaker.
The temperature regulator works like this: the soleplate of the iron heats up the bimetallic plate; Since the heat expansion coefficient of the two metals is different, the bimetallic plate bends and squeezes the contact plate. Thus, the circuit is opened and the heating element is turned off.
In this video, you will be shown how to fix the problem with the cooling of the iron. We watch and remember!
VIDEO When the temperature of the bimetallic plate drops to a certain level, it becomes even again and releases the contact plate. Then the ten is triggered again. It is very important to pay attention to the operation of the thermostat, whether it is broken. You can check this by turning its handle to the extreme positions.
If the contact plates close and open, then he is fine. These plates are the basis of the temperature controller. Otherwise, if you cannot do this, you need to remove the regulator handle by prying it with some sharp object, knife or flat screwdriver. It's not difficult at all. If this tactic fails, it is better to remove the iron body altogether by unscrewing the screws.
When this is done, you can look at the problem from the inside, so it is easier to find a breakdown. Then, use a dial tone to see if the electrical circuit is tripping. One end of the dial is connected to one contact, and the other end to the other. Now, if the light comes on when the regulator is set to the extreme positions, then the thermostat is working properly.
But if not, then you need to clean up the contacts. To do this, you can use a fine-grained emery cloth or even a nail file. Then you need to check the integrity of the thermostat circuit using an electrical tester.
Thermal fuse for iron
Next, you should pay attention to the thermal fuse. By checking it, you can find another malfunction of the iron. To do this, you need to connect the dial wire to it on both sides. If everything is in order with the fuse, the tester's buzzer will start to make a sound, "beep". If the buzzer still does not "beep", then the thermal fuse is faulty.
In 50-60% of cases of iron malfunction, the problem arises precisely because of the blown thermal fuse. There are two types of thermal fuses: disposable and reusable. Reusable thermal fuses are created on the same principle as bimetal (as well as the main iron regulator).
When the set temperature rises, the contact is broken, and as a result the power supply circuit of the heating element is interrupted. After the iron has cooled down, the bimetallic contact closes the power circuit of the heating element again. So, a reusable thermal fuse protects the iron from overheating (except for those cases when the main thermostat did not work) and completely burn out.
Unlike a reusable thermal fuse, a disposable one can fulfill its purpose only once. When the set temperature is exceeded, a disposable thermal fuse interrupts the power supply to the heating element, thus protecting the iron from overheating and preventing the heating element from burning out.
Here, you can watch an interesting video on refrigerator repair.
In this article, you will find interesting information about which company is the best to choose a water heater.
If a disposable thermal fuse has tripped, then the iron can no longer be used, it must be repaired.
The simplest solution to this problem would be to discard this disposable thermal fuse, and short-circuit the electrical circuit in this place. If the main temperature controller is working properly, then the absence of a thermal fuse will not in any way affect the operation and safety of the iron.
In order to short-circuit the electrical circuit in the place where the thermal fuse is absent, it is necessary to solder another fuse or just a wire in this place.
Having applied a lot of work and having checked the main elements, we come to the conclusion that the heating heating element has stopped working. Often it is simply impossible or very difficult to remove it from the device and replace it. And it may not come out very cheap. Therefore, it is best to dispose of the iron in this case. Parts of the iron that are still working, for example, a cord, may still come in handy at home and you can leave it.
It is better to pour only distilled or boiled water into the iron. This will prevent limescale build-up in the steaming system.
VIDEO If the iron stops heating, you can buy a new one, but often the damage is not very serious and you can fix it yourself. If you know how to work with a screwdriver and a multimeter, you can do it. How to repair the iron with your own hands and we will talk in this article.
Since irons are produced by very different companies, they differ slightly - in shape, heating speed, quality of spare parts, etc. But the overall structure remains the same. Available:
Sole with heating element built into it. If there is a steamer function, the soleplate has a number of holes for steam to escape.
A thermostat with a handle that allows you to set the required heating temperature of the sole.
A container / tank for water that is used for steaming.
There is a nozzle for spraying water, forced steam. There is also a steam regulator. With its help, the frequency of the automatic supply of evaporated water is set.
The iron is connected to the network using an electric cord, which is attached to the terminal block located in the back under the plastic cover.
General device of the electric iron
After you have familiarized yourself with what is where, in general terms, you can start repairing the iron with your own hands.
For work, you need a set of screwdrivers - cross and flat. You will need a wide knife or an unnecessary plastic card - pry the parts of the iron with snaps. To check the integrity of the parts, you will need a multimeter (read how to use it here). You may also need a soldering iron if you have to change any parts.
Tools you may need when repairing your iron
All of the tools, but in the process of work sometimes you need electrical tape or heat shrink tubes, you may need sandpaper, pliers.
The first difficulty faced by those wishing to repair the iron on their own is disassembly. This is far from simple and obvious. The easiest way is to remove the back panel. There are several screws that are visible and which are difficult to unscrew. In addition to screws, there may be latches. So, having unscrewed all the visible fasteners, we pry the cover with the tip of a screwdriver or an old plastic card, separate the cover from the case.
Under it, a terminal block is found to which the cord is attached. If there are problems with the cord, you can not disassemble the iron further. But if everything is fine with the cord, you will have to disassemble it further, and this may cause problems.
In some irons - Philips (Philips), Tefal (Tefal) there are also bolts under the lid. We unscrew them too. In general, if we see fasteners, we remove them.
Removing the back cover is the first thing to do when disassembling the iron
As each manufacturer develops its own design, and it often changes from model to model. Therefore, difficulties arise. But there are several points that are found in almost any manufacturer.
Immediately you need to remove the temperature regulator dial and the steam supply buttons for which you need to hold them in your fingers and pull them up. The buttons may have latches, so you might need something thin to squeeze them out a little - you can pry them off with a screwdriver.
To disassemble the iron, you need to remove the buttons
Some irons, such as the Rowenta, as in the photo, have bolts on the handle (found in some Scarlet models). If there are any, we unscrew them. A screw is also hidden under the removed buttons, we also unscrew it. Then remove the top plastic parts.They are usually fastened with latches. To make it easier to remove them, you can put a knife blade or a piece of plastic (plastic card) into the lock.
There are usually some bolts under the covers. Having unscrewed them, we continue disassembling until the body and sole are separated. Unfortunately, it is impossible to give more precise recommendations - there are too different designs. What can be advised - to act slowly and carefully. And a few videos on how to disassemble irons of different brands.
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Failure of the electrical cord is a fairly common type of breakdown. With such damage, the iron may not turn on at all or work in fits and starts, the sole may not heat well. The cord can bend, curl, the insulation is damaged at the bend, some wires can be frayed completely or partially. If there is such damage, it is better to replace the cord, regardless of whether it is the cause or not. In any case, all places with damaged insulation must be insulated.
In case of any damage, any repair of the iron begins with an inspection of the cord. To accurately determine whether it is normal or not, you need to ring it. To do this, simply remove the back cover. The terminal block will become available, to which the cord is connected. You will need a tester or multimeter. We put it in the dialing mode, we press one probe to one contact of the plug, with the second we touch one of the wires on the block. When touching the "correct" wire, the multimeter should emit a squeak. This means that the wire is intact.
Checking the integrity of the power cord
The color of the insulation of the conductors can be any, but yellow-green is necessarily grounding (it must be checked by installing the probe on a small metal plate at the bottom of the plug). The other two are connected to the pins of the plug. Here one of these two wires should ring with the pin to which you pressed the multimeter probe. We repeat the same operation with another pin.
For complete confidence in the serviceability of the cord, you need to wrinkle / twist it during the dialing. Especially in places where there are insulation problems. If the squeak from such actions is interrupted, it is better to replace the cord. It also needs to be replaced if one or both pins do not ring. You may be lucky and you will not need further repairs to the iron.
If the iron does not heat up at all, the heating element may have burnt out. If this is the case, then it is worth buying a new iron, as the replacement will cost almost the same amount. But first of all, you need to make sure that it is the heating element that is to blame.
These are the outputs of the heating element of the iron
In order to check the heating element, we get to the very sole of the iron. On it, closer to the back, there are two outputs of the heating element. We transfer the multimeter to the position of resistance measurement (up to 1000 Ohm), we take measurements. If the numbers on the display are of the order of 25o Ohm, then the heating element is normal, if more, it burned out. As already mentioned, if the heating element burns out, it is not worth repairing the iron - it is more profitable to buy a new one.
The thermostat looks like a plate with a group of contacts and a protruding plastic pin, on which the disc is then put on.
This is the thermostat on the iron
Two contacts fit the plate. We install the multimeter probes on them and check the operability (call them). In the "off" position, the sound of the multimeter should disappear; when turned on and turned to any position, it should continue to sound.
The damage may consist in the fact that in the "on" position there is still no contact - then the iron does not heat at all. There may be a different situation - it is not switched off by the regulator and / or does not respond to the position of the regulator. Both reasons are in contacts. And, most likely, they are burnt.
In the first case, carbon deposits can interfere, which can be cleaned off by sticking a piece of sandpaper with a fine grain between the contacts and a couple of times and "sliding" along the contacts. If there is no sandpaper, you can use a nail file, but you must act carefully - the temperature settings depend on the bending of the plates.So you can't bend them too much.
In the second case - if the iron does not turn off - the contacts may have burnt - melted. Repairing the iron in this case consists in trying to separate them. But this trick is rarely successful. The way out is to replace it.
Thermostat from a different angle
There may be another point: when falling, the contacts could somehow interlock. When the soleplate of the iron is heated, the bending thermoplate presses on the contact groups, but the contacts cannot open. The result is the same - the iron does not turn off when heated. Repairing the iron is also similar - we are trying to return mobility to the plates, trying not to bend them. If it doesn't work, we change it.
A thermal fuse is installed in approximately the same area as the thermostat. It stands in case of overheating of the sole of the iron - it burns out if the iron heats up to dangerous temperatures. Usually a protective tube is put on this fuse and most often it is white.
Iron repair: fuse and its continuity
Find contacts, call. In the normal state, the fuse "rings", if it is blown out - silence. If desired, you can move the tube, ring it directly - there may be a break / burnout of the connecting wire. If the fuse is blown, you solder it, look for a similar one and install it in place.
It is not worth excluding the thermal fuse from the circuit - it will save you from fire in case of problems with the thermostat: it will simply burn out and the iron will not work. And even though the iron will require repair, your home will be safe.
VIDEO If almost no steam comes out of the iron, and there is water in the container, most likely the holes are clogged with salts. You can restore your performance with a simple trick. Pour water and vinegar (ordinary, table) into a bowl with low boron (a frying pan is suitable). One glass of vinegar per liter of water. The second recipe is for 250 ml of boiling water, 2 teaspoons of citric acid. In the dishes with the prepared liquid, lower the disconnected iron. The liquid should cover the sole.
Cleaning the steam vents on the iron
Put the container with the iron on fire, bring to a boil, turn it off. Wait until it cools down. Warm up again. This can be repeated 3-4 times. Until the salts dissolve.
Sometimes water stops coming out of the spray arm. Most likely, this is due to the fact that the tube is disconnected. In this case, the repair of the iron consists in the fact that it is necessary to disassemble the panel on which the injection buttons are fixed and reinstall all the tubes and wires.
The second way to descale the iron is to disassemble it completely so that only one soleplate remains. Cover the sole with tape so that water does not seep out, but you can also put it in a dish. Pour hot water with vinegar or citric acid inside the sole, let it cool, drain, pour over again. Continue this way until you are satisfied with the result. Then rinse with water and collect.
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To fix an iron with your own hands, you need to know how this device is made. Considering the device of the iron, we can say that it is structurally similar to devices such as a kettle or a heater. The differences lie only in the purpose of the devices and the presence of additional units.
In the iron, regardless of the country and manufacturer, there are four main components:
heater;
plug with cord;
thermal fuse;
Temperature regulator.
In order for the iron to start working, you should apply voltage to the tubular heating element located in the sole of the device. In modern models, such as "Roventa", powerful heating elements from 1000 to 2300 W are used. If you do not interrupt the heating process, then the sole of the appliance will become so hot that it will only be suitable for frying eggs, and not for ironing.
In order to prevent excessive heating, a regulating device is built into the apparatus circuit. The thermal mode depends on the thermostat of the iron, which is selected taking into account the type of fabric: some materials can be ironed at a temperature of 100 C, others need indicators of 200 C.In most models, which include Brown irons, the adjusting wheel is located in the upper part of the body under the handle.
An important unit for ensuring safety is a fuse. When the appliance reaches extreme temperatures resulting from a malfunction, the thermal fuse will open the contacts and the iron will turn off.
Before you repair the iron, you need to check the serviceability of the power cable. Most often, it cracks in places of frequent deformations - at the entrance to the body or near the plug. The malfunction may appear gradually when the indicator lamp flashes during ironing. Such a wink means that there is no normal contact and oxidation of the terminals is possible.
Another malfunction manifests itself more violently. If the wires rub against each other for a long time, the insulating layer may break and a short circuit may occur. Outwardly, this is manifested by a strong clap, shutdown of other devices and a specific smell characteristic of burnt wiring.
For women who are particularly sensitive, situations like this hurt to the core. They perceive the breakdown as a natural disaster and respond with calls to their husbands, to the Emergencies Ministry and house management. The most correct option is the first, because any man whose hands grow from where they should be can make the iron turn on again. Otherwise, you should still contact the strong half so that he handed over the thing for repair.
The internet is filled with videos on the topic of ironing repairs. Many plots are devoted to the flaws in the supply wire. If the cord is faulty near the plug, there is no need to disassemble the appliance. In the case when suspicion falls on the part that is hidden by the body, you cannot do without disassembly. To make, for example, repair the Philips iron with your own hands, you should remove the back cover. Behind it, the power cord diverges into three wires. If the insulation is damaged, it must be restored. When oxidizing the terminals, you need to disconnect the wires and clean up problem areas.
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The heating element in modern designs is a reliable unit and rarely breaks. When this trouble occurs, it is better not to buy a new heater. It's easier to get a new iron. But first, you should make sure that the problem is in the heating element.
In all models, the heater contacts are soldered to the device contacts and connected to the indicator lamp. If the lamp is on, and the iron does not heat up, then the malfunction is associated with the heating element.
The most common cause of heating element failure is coil rupture. Another reason may be insufficient contact of the heating element rods with the device terminals at the connection points.
On some models, the thermal fuse is included in one heater circuit and the regulator in the other. If the fuse is faulty, then a false "diagnosis" can be made, suspecting that the heating element is malfunctioning. To find out exactly the reason for the failure of the device, it should be completely disassembled.
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Temperature control is carried out with a round wheel. It is located in the Azur iron and in other models on the body under the handle. When you turn the wheel to the right, the heating temperature increases, to the left, it decreases until the heating element is completely turned off.
The wheel acts on the thermostat by means of a special sleeve or steel angle and is attached to the body with latches. In the Scarlet iron and in other models, it is enough to pick up the adjusting disc with a screwdriver to make it come off.
The operating principle of the thermostat is based on various properties of metals. In the manufacture of this unit, two plates are soldered, made of metals with unequal coefficients of linear expansion. Thanks to these indicators, each plate behaves differently. Outwardly, it looks like this: under the influence of temperature, the common plate bends, causing the circuit to open, and the iron turns on.
To make sure that the temperature regulator is faulty, you will have to disassemble the iron completely.
The handle of the device and the plastic parts of the case are attached to the metal parts with latches or self-tapping screws. Even one manufacturer has many models, and they all have design features. But all species have common points.
To disassemble the iron, it is necessary to examine its sharp part, where there is one attachment point. For example, a Philips iron hides a self-tapping screw under the steam knob. To unscrew the screw, turn the handle all the way to the left and pull up. After removing the adjusting unit, you can unscrew the self-tapping screw. In the Brown model, the screw is hidden under the nozzle cover. You can remove the nozzle by slightly pulling it towards you. After removing it, free access to the screw opens. Other screws or latches are located under the back cover of the device.
After the plastic part of the case has been removed, the iron thermostat should be considered. In cold mode, the contacts must be closed. If there is a special device, it is better to ring the knot. If there is no device, you can clean the contacts with fine sandpaper, and then turn on the iron to the network.
To set up an iron, you can refer to statistics, which say that 50-60% of malfunctions occur due to the fact that a thermal fuse fails. This unit is disposable and reusable. Fuses of the first group, like kamikaze, are triggered only once. The unit is designed so that when the heating element reaches a temperature of 240 ° C, the circuit is broken. Further operation of the device without additional intervention becomes impossible.
More modern technologies involve the use of bimetallic parts. Such a thermal fuse is able to turn off the iron in extreme situations, and then turn it on again. If the iron does not work for this reason, the easiest way is to discard the knot and short the circuit. This can be done in different ways:
by soldering;
by crimping a metal rod;
switching power wires.
In each case, it is necessary to achieve reliable contact.
Another common ailment is a problem with the steaming system. Sometimes in the Bosch iron, the button that starts the process is strongly pressed, and steam is not supplied. Repairing a Bosch iron should begin by unscrewing the screw at the back and removing the back cover. Then you should carefully pull out the two buttons regulating the steam supply up. They are not screwed in and are held onto the bushings by friction. Next, you need to unscrew the screw, after which the plastic handle should be easily removed. There are two pumps under the cover: one supplies water to the sprinkler, the other supplies water to the soleplate to create steam. The steam pump needs to be removed. At the bottom there is a ball that sticks to the bottom of the chamber due to scale. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to push the ball into the chamber and assemble the iron in the reverse order.
Whatever iron you have to repair, you must remember about safety and follow certain rules: turn on the device to the network only when it is necessary; do not try to fix the malfunction with wet hands; during repairs, the iron must be installed on a stable, non-conductive and heat-resistant coating.
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All elements of the electric circuit of the iron are located on the inner side of the sole. The iron device is not complicated and consists of the following elements:
Outsole with built-in heater. If the appliance has steamers, holes are provided for them in the soleplate.
Thermostat heating temperature control function.
A tank that contains water for steaming.
Water spray and steam nozzle. There is also a steaming knob, with which you can adjust the intensity of the steam.
Electrical cord for connecting the device to the network. It attaches to a terminal block located under the plastic cover.
To repair the iron, you need to prepare a set of tools. In the process of work you will need:
Phillips screwdrivers, straight and curved;
a wide knife or unnecessary plastic card to pry on the latches;
multimeter for checking the operation of electrical elements;
soldering iron to replace parts.
To repair the iron, you need to have the skills to work with a multimeter and be able to hold a screwdriver in your hands, as well as to be accurate and consistent.
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One of the most difficult parts of a repair is disassembling the device. To disassemble the Vitek iron and models from other manufacturers, you need to remove the cover from the back panel ... There are screws on it that must be unscrewed, as well as latches that must be wrung out. Having unscrewed all fasteners, remove the cover using a knife or a plastic card.
In Rowenta devices and similar structures, there are bolts on the handles, they need to be unscrewed. There are also screws under the removed buttons; they are also removed. After that, the latches securing the upper plastic parts are squeezed out and removed. The iron is disassembled until the body and sole are separated.
The designs of devices from different manufacturers differ somewhat from each other, so the disassembly process is also different for them. But in any case, the work must be done carefully and slowly.
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The electrical cord is often the cause of poor performance. Breakage can occur due to damage to the insulation at the point where the cord is bent or curled. One or more wires may be partially or completely damaged. Because of this, the iron stops turning on, and the sole does not heat up well.
If the cord is damaged, then in any case it should be replaced, even if the cause of the breakdown is not in it. If this is not possible, then you need to carefully insulate the damaged areas. To check the cord, they call him with a multimeter ... During the test, the cord must be twisted and bent in various places, especially where there is damage to the insulation. If the multimeter stops ringing from this, then the cord must be replaced. It is also replaced if one or both pins of the plug do not ring.
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If the device stops heating, the heating element may have burned out, the replacement of which is expensive. If this happens, it is better to buy a new iron. The two outlets of the heating element are located at the back of the soleplate of the iron. To check, the multimeter must be configured to measure resistance and connected to the terminals of the heating element. If a number close to 250 Ohm appears on the device display, the heating element is in order. If the number is much higher, then the heating element has burned out.
If the thermostat breaks down, the iron may not turn on, even if it is set to “on”. It may be the other way around - the device does not turn off when the thermostat is off. In both cases, the problem is faulty contacts.
If the iron does not turn on, carbon deposits may have appeared on the contacts. It can be cleaned using fine grit sandpaper.If the device does not shut off, the contacts could fuse or bond if dropped. You can try to gently disengage them, being careful not to bend or damage. If this does not work, then you will have to replace the iron.
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There is a fuse in the iron in case of overheating. It is located near the thermostat and in most models is covered with a white tube. If the iron reaches a dangerous temperature, the fuse will blow.
If there is water in the container, but there is no steam, then the cause of the malfunction may be clogged holes in the sole. To clean them you need to prepare one of the following compositions:
1 liter of water is mixed with 200 grams of vinegar;
2 teaspoons of citric acid are added to 1 glass of boiling water.
The liquid is poured into the pan and the unplugged iron is placed there. The compound should cover the sole. Put the frying pan on the fire, bring to a boil and turn it off. They wait for the liquid to cool down, and then put it on the fire again until it boils. This operation is done 3-4 times. In this case, the salts should dissolve.
You can clean the clogged holes of the sole by completely disassembling the device. Then its sole is sealed with tape. Hot water is poured into it several times with the addition of vinegar or citric acid, kept until it cools and drained.
The iron that stopped working do not immediately carry it to the trash heap ... Not too serious damage can be eliminated by hand. If you follow the accuracy and sequence of actions, then this work will not take much time and effort.
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To begin with, you must visually inspect the case for cracks, defects and traces of melting of the case. Perhaps the appearance will immediately show what exactly is the cause of the iron breakdown. If the inspection did not give anything, you need to completely disassemble the case for self-diagnosis of all the constituent elements.
We draw your attention to the fact that it is sometimes quite difficult to disassemble the iron. This is due to the fact that every year manufacturers devote more time to the design of an electrical appliance, creating invisible latches and screw holes. Initially, prepare a set of screwdrivers and a knife that will be useful to you for further actions.
VIDEO One of the main malfunctions of the iron is precisely the power cord, which you, in fact, plug into the outlet.
Get to the point where the contacts are connected to the heating element and if there are no visible faults, use a tester to ring the cord to determine its operability.
For continuity, you can use a homemade control consisting of a piece of wire, a battery and a light bulb. If the light is on when you connect the contacts to both ends of the cord, go ahead.
If the power cord is the cause of a breakdown, you can try to shorten it by 10-15 cm (the problem area may be removed). Iron doesn't work anyway? We replace the cord with a new one!
The second in line is the thermostat. We also check it using a dial tone, which we attach to the contact group.
VIDEO Is the thermostat working, but the iron does not heat up? Let's start checking the thermal fuse!
More often than a power cord, this element of the circuit fails.Its main purpose is to disconnect the electrical circuit if the temperature of the heating element exceeds the nominal value.
Using the dial tone, we determine the performance of the fuse. If the reason for the breakdown of the iron is in it, we replace it with a new one, or even remove it from the circuit altogether. During normal operation of the temperature controller, there is no need for a fuse.
Well, the last of the reasons why the iron does not work is the failure of the heating element. If the equipment turns on, the light is on, but the sole does not heat up to the required temperature, most likely this is the case. As in previous cases, using a homemade tester, we determine the performance of the product. The heating element is fixed to the sole and if the attachment point is one-piece, then most likely you will have to say goodbye to the purchase (if the reason is in it).
In the event that the heating element is connected to the sole with the help of tips, you can try to repair the iron with your own hands by cleaning the contacts with sandpaper. Still not heating up? We send the equipment for recycling, because a new part costs almost the full cost of the device!
We draw your attention to the fact that if you throw the equipment into the trash, it will be more correct to disconnect the power cord and keep it for yourself. Perhaps this element will be useful to you in subsequent repairs, especially since it will not take up much space in the closet!
If the malfunction lies in the fact that the iron steamer does not work, then, most likely, it is necessary to clean the internal vaporization cavities. To do this, we recommend that you use a solution of water and vinegar in a ratio of 1 liter to 1 glass. We install the sole in the container (as shown in the picture), bring the water on the stove to a boil, turn it off and wait until it cools down. After that, we repeat the event 3 more times, which is quite enough for high-quality cleaning of the spray bottle.
In stores, you can see special descaling agents, but we highly do not recommend using them. This is due to the high cost of funds and at the same time low efficiency, in comparison with the folk method! It should also be noted that there are many negative reviews on thematic forums that the iron does not work after cleaning with salt. This is due to the fact that salt crystals clog the holes for the steam supply, as a result of which you have to thoroughly clean the sole.
Another reason why the sprinkler does not work is that the steam button has broken. It can also be called with a tester and replaced if necessary.
That's all the instructions for repairing an iron with your own hands. As you can see, the event is quite simple and even a novice electrician can do it! Finally, I would like to note that if the red indicator on the case flashes, do not panic, because this may indicate a certain operating mode or automatic shutdown after heating. Read the instructions that came with the package to understand the reason for the blinking. We hope that now it became clear to you what to do if the soleplate does not heat up and how to repair the breakage at home!
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