Hob krone DIY repair

In detail: hob krone do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This article will focus on repairing touch-sensitive hobs. Unfortunately, in most cases, it is not always possible to repair them with your own hands. However, first things first.

In case you have mechanical control, which is usually the case for dependent panels or for stationary electric stoves, then you can read about faults here. Everything else I will divide into two parts: what happens and what cannot be repaired with my own hands.

If the touch control works, you can change the power, turn on and off the hotplate, but at the same time the hotplate either constantly works, and it starts working immediately as soon as you turn on the hob, or it does not work, regardless of the mode that you set through the sensor, then malfunctions of two types can be distinguished:

If the hotplate heats up immediately when the hob is turned on and does not respond to changes in modes, then it is most likely that you have a sticking of the relay contacts, which is responsible for this hotplate. Here you need to check the relay contacts. Relays usually have two pairs of contacts. One pair comes with food. When power is applied, the coil draws in the core, which closes the contacts. The second pair is just the contacts that the relay controls. The most likely reason is the welding of the contacts. In principle, if you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, then you can try to replace the relay with your own hands. You need to check two things: whether the power supply to the relay coil is turned off and whether the relay contacts open. If the coil power appears immediately when the panel is turned on, then you will have to go to a repair shop. If the coil power appears when you turn on the hotplate with the touch panel, then you need to check the control contacts. But in this case, as a rule, they are always closed. If the problem is in the relay, then in any case, a replacement will be required.
If the relay is working properly, but the burner does not work, while the power is supplied to the relay, and the power contacts are closed, then we read here how to determine the malfunction of the burner.

Video (click to play).

If this is a new panel that you installed yourself, or, suddenly, half of the panel stops working, or the sensor works, but the burners do not turn on, then look at the terminal block. In touch panels, the terminals in the block can be distributed in this way: one terminal is responsible for powering the electronics, the other two power the burners. That is, the situation when the electronics is working, the touch panel shows that the power of the burners is regulated, but the burners themselves do not work at the same time.

There may be two repairable problems and one conditionally repairable problem.

The sensor is triggered with some delay. Some manufacturers have deliberately made this delay to prevent accidental pressing. That is, in order for the sensor to trigger, you need to put your finger in the required area and wait a little (usually up to two seconds), after which the sensors will react quickly for some time (sometimes any sensor triggering occurs with a delay - the triggering algorithm is determined by the manufacturer).
Child lock might be worth it. Read the instructions for your panel about the lock or child protection mode.
It is possible that the glass above the touch panel or on the back side is somehow dirty. If wiping the glass does not help, then you will have to contact the service center.

Some hobs have a heating function. Usually, in this case, the display does not show 0, but the crockery icon | _ | (like half zero). In this case, the hotplate does not turn off completely, but goes into heating mode. Water, for example, will not boil in this mode, but will remain very hot until you turn off the hotplate or an automatic shutdown occurs, if provided by the manufacturer.

This is most likely not a malfunction. The cooking temperature in touch-sensitive hobs is adjusted by turning it on and off. The more the power is set, the less frequent shutdowns occur and the longer the turn-on period. At maximum setting, the hotplate works without switching off, except in case of overheating of the hotplate. In this case, the temperature sensor will be triggered. As soon as the hotplate cools down, the temperature sensor is triggered and the hotplate turns on again.

The malfunction can be conditionally removable and not. I wrote about this malfunction here. In this case, replacing the temperature sensor will help.

There may be a malfunction of another kind. The problem may lie in the electronics, then you will have to go to the workshop.

This is where the conditionally repaired malfunctions end, so we turn to the malfunctions that you are unlikely to cope with on your own. Therefore, to eliminate them, you will have to contact a specialized workshop. I do not particularly recommend contacting service centers. High-class specialists rarely sit in them, and often you overpay for some services. Therefore, it is better to contact private companies. Repair can be much cheaper, but you need to carefully approach the choice of the company.

This usually happens with panels that are many years old. This is largely due to electrolytic capacitors, which lose their capacity over time. In theory, you can try to replace them. In practice, such a replacement helps only 50%. In this case, especially if the panels are more than 10 years old, it makes sense to think about buying a new one.

This includes all other faults that have not been considered.

Summarize. The malfunctions of analog elements, that is, non-electronic ones, can be considered conditionally removable. In this case, if you have the necessary skills, you can try to fix the problem yourself. When it comes to electronics, it is unlikely that someone will advise you on the Internet, because when it comes to electronics, it is not always possible to immediately determine the cause, even when the master directly examines the panel. And it's even more difficult to explain what a diode, transistor and other electronic components look like.

Electric, induction and gas hobs are used for cooking. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and there are also a number of malfunctions that can be eliminated independently if they occur. Do-it-yourself hob repair can be done subject to certain recommendations and if you have the necessary tools.

Glass ceramic hob BOSCH

Hob repair Bosch, in some cases, you can do it yourself.

If, with the power supply connected, one of the burners does not work or the entire device does not work, we carry out the following work:

We check with a multimeter the voltage in the outlet. If it is, then the problem lies with the hob itself. You can check using the indicator, but it only indicates the presence of voltage. A significant change in the current indicators can lead to the operation of protective mechanisms.
We check the condition of the electrical cord and plug. If there is mechanical damage, it will be enough to replace the cord or plug.You can also check the supplied current on the panel itself, since mechanical damage is not always the cause of a malfunction of the cord and plug.
If the cord with a plug, the socket is in good condition, we dismantle the hob.

Removing the hob

If you repair a glass-ceramic hob with your own hands, you should know that the malfunction of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter, by taking measurements in individual sections of the circuit. When considering a Bosh hob, you should pay attention to the following elements:

In the absence of resistance or at low rates, these elements should be replaced.

The work of some structural elements can only be detected with a multimeter.

Another common problem is a broken wire in the hob connection block. Under certain circumstances, they can burn out or, due to poor installation, there may be poor contact. Checking for such a malfunction can be quite simple.

Let's highlight a few more problems that lead to improper operation of the hob:

Some models have fuses that can blow out due to high voltage surges. Their cost is low, the replacement procedure is quite simple. In order to protect expensive equipment from such situations, you should install a surge protection device. If the fuses constantly fail, you should check the operating features of the equipment itself, since the problem may not be in the indicators of the supplied voltage.
The burner may not work due to the fact that the contact on the heating element has disappeared. If the wiring is unsoldered, you can resume work, for which you need to have a soldering iron and be able to use it. The problem may be associated with the power supply, which also often loses contact.

If the heating element is burned out, it must be replaced with a new one

The design of electric hobs is quite complex, but many of its elements are highly reliable.

The principle of operation of an induction hob is to directly heat the contents of the cookware, and not the surface of the stove or the cookware itself. Due to the fact that the hob remains constantly cold, such kitchen appliances are very popular.

There are several problems in which you can repair an induction hob yourself:

If the hob does not turn on or does not turn off immediately, do not panic. Modern models from the manufacturer in question are able to determine the type of cookware, its absence on the hob. Therefore, if the cookware is not suitable for induction heating or if it is not installed, then a protective mechanism is activated. Do not forget that induction cookers do not heat the hob itself.
If the heat is weak, then initially you should check the type of dishes used, whether it fits the recommendations.
Repairing induction hobs, as in the previous case, you need to start by checking the circuit for the presence or absence of contact. Fuses often fail, as there are often power surges in the network. In this case, simply change the fuse.

The rest of the repair of induction hobs is similar to the repair of electrical panels.

Induction hob

To repair the electric and induction hob, you need to have the following tools:

Screwdriver Set. In order to carry out many dismantling work, you need to have several different screwdrivers, which may differ in size and type of tip. In addition to ordinary screwdrivers, you should pay attention to the need for an indicator that detects the presence of voltage.
The mounting knife is often used when carrying out electrical work. As a rule, it is necessary for changing the length, stripping wire strands and other similar work.
Pliers are often used during assembly work. However, they often have a sharp part that can be used to cut the veins.
It is often necessary to have wire cutters.

In addition, a multimeter may be needed to determine the voltage value. It determines various parameters of the supplied current. A soldering iron may be needed when carrying out repair work.

The hob is one of the most important appliances in the kitchen, and, like any other technique, is prone to breakdowns, but making repairs with your own hands is quite simple. If a malfunction is discovered during the warranty period, your stove will be repaired free of charge. But if a breakdown occurs several years later, you can try to repair the hob with your own hands, since contacting specialists can cost a little less than buying a new stove.

In this article, our experts have listed all the malfunctions of the hob and step by step disassembled the process of repairing malfunctions with their own hands.

The hob does not turn on - the most common malfunction of electrical panels, the device is plugged into the outlet, but does not work at all, or only one of the burners does not heat up. DIY repair can be disassembled into the following steps:

We check the voltage in the outlet; due to heavy loads, the contacts of the outlet often burn out.
We check the plug and cord for mechanical damage - they can simply shorten or even break the chain. Most often, damage is observed at the points where the panel is plugged into the outlet. Found damage - we replace the cord.
We turn off the power, remove the fasteners and dismantle the surface from the tabletop. We disassemble the surface and move on to the next step.
We take a multimeter and check the transformer, the next step is to check the thermal fuse. In the absence of resistance, or if it differs significantly from that declared by the manufacturer, parts must be replaced, they are sold in many electronics stores.
One hotplate on the hob does not work - it is necessary to check all the wires, as well as their connections to the burners, thermostat, switches, control panel for the fact of an open circuit. If the malfunction is not visually visible, all the contacts are in place, we take a multimeter and check each connection.

If you do not have a multimeter, you can use an indicator screwdriver for repairs, with which you can check the presence of voltage on all parts of the circuit. We also recommend watching a video that will help you repair the hobs yourself.

See also - How to install the hob in the worktop with your own hands

The main malfunctions that users of electric hobs may encounter are as follows:

See also - How to connect the hob with your own hands

Although induction panels are the most modern and high-tech devices, they are also not immune to malfunctions. We will analyze the main malfunctions of induction panels, and what repairs you can try to do yourself.

The induction hob does not turn on or turns off immediately - most often this is a feature of this type of panel, and not a malfunction. The induction hob has a protective function, if you use the wrong diameter or material of the cookware, the hob will automatically turn off the power, and the hotplate will not heat up. Also, the hotplate will turn off automatically if you remove the dishes from the surface.
The induction hob heats up for a long time and weakly - again, we read the requirements for the dishes in the instructions.90% of induction hob malfunctions are associated with the wrong cookware.
The induction hob turns on automaticallyalthough there is no cookware on the hotplate. Remove all metal objects and clean the stove from salt, if this does not help, you have a problem in the control unit, it needs to be repaired or replaced. Better to contact the service.
The induction hob does not work... The principle of diagnostics and repair does not change, specialists first of all check the fuse. then they ring the entire chain for an open circuit and replace the burnt-out part.

The last type of cooking appliances is a gas surface. One of the simplest and easiest to repair with your own hands. Less electronics are used, so there are not many faults and everything is easily eliminated.

Gas does not ignite or ignites poorly. We immediately check the electric ignition (piezo) for the presence of blockage or liquid. In 90% of cases, it is enough to wash it thoroughly and dry it. If this does not help, we check the presence of electricity in the circuit leading to the piezo coil.
The gas hob does not turn on because gas does not flow to the burner. Repair of hobs in these cases is not needed, prevention is enough. We check the gas pipe, if the valve is open and there is gas in the system, proceed to check the nozzles. The clogging occurs with fat or food debris, it is enough to clean it. Do not forget to wipe dry after cleaning, moisture should not remain. If moisture remains, the piezo will not ignite.

Modern hobs are equipped with sensors for detecting faults and diagnostic modules, an error code appears on the screen. We find the code in the instructions and follow the specified recommendations to eliminate a specific malfunction. Use the forums, there you can find real reviews and experiences on DIY repair from specialists and other users, namely your model with detailed instructions and photos.

If we analyze all the malfunctions of hobs that may occur during operation, we can say with confidence that most of them can be repaired by hand.

Fuse blown
Contact broke
The chain is broken
Cable damage
Clogged stove, nozzles
The heating element broke
Sensor does not work

All these malfunctions are eliminated by hand, if you are faced with a more complex problem and are not sure of your knowledge and strength, contact the service center.

First, let's talk about how to repair an electric hob and what kind of malfunctions this version of the stove may have. Most often, owners are faced with a situation when the hob does not work or one of the burners does not heat up when the power is connected.

In this case, the repair is reduced to the fact that you need to perform the following steps:

Check the voltage at the outlet, because perhaps it was this electrical point that was out of order, as a result of which there is no power.
Carefully inspect the cord and plug for mechanical damage. Sometimes this is where the repair ends - you just need to replace the electrical plug or cord.
Remove the hob from the worktop by disconnecting all wires and unscrewing the fastening strips.
Use a multimeter to check the thermal fuse (pictured below) and the transformer. If there is no resistance or differs from the nominal, you need to replace the circuit elements with new ones.
Check all wire connections (on the control unit, switches, thermostat, burners) and make sure that there is no trivial open circuit. First, try to visually find the fault, and then use a multimeter to ring all sections of the circuit according to the diagram.

Often, finding a breakdown of an electric hob with your own hands is not difficult if you know how to handle a multimeter. In the absence of this device, you can use an indicator screwdriver, which will show the presence of voltage in a certain section of the circuit.

In addition, I would like to tell you why the hob may stop working, so that you know the cause of the malfunctions and how to repair each. So, among the main breakdowns, the most common are the following:

The first option is a marriage from the manufacturer, sometimes it happens, as we saw from one of the reviews on the Internet, which said that the Ariston electric hob cracked by itself and the victim was replaced with a new one under warranty. However, another explanation of the malfunction is more common - incorrect operation, which is described in detail in the instructions for the technique. In the latter case, repairing the hob will be expensive and only through your fault.

We immediately recommend watching a visual video instruction, which shows how to properly repair an electrical surface:

If your induction hob does not work, there may also be several reasons for the malfunction. For your attention, an overview of the main faults and methods of repair on your own:

Repair instructions for an induction cooker are provided in the video:

Well, the last option for equipment that can fail is a gas stove. If your gas hob does not work, there are not many reasons for malfunctions. Usually problems arise with the piezoelectric element and the nozzle from which the gas is supplied.

So, to your attention, the causes of breakdowns and how to repair the hob with your own hands:

Pieza ignites poorly. In this case, check the electric ignition of the burner for blockages. If the ignition is really clogged, wash it and wipe it thoroughly with a dry cloth after washing.
Gas does not flow. First check to see if the tap on the gas pipe itself is closed. After that, get to the nozzle and check if it is clean. The reason why the gas can stop flowing or is supplied poorly is most often the contamination of the nozzle with grease or food. Repairing such a malfunction will not be difficult, the main thing is, after washing, thoroughly wipe off the water with a dry cloth.

These are all the main malfunctions of a gas hob. Sometimes incorrect operation can be caused by improper installation of kitchen appliances. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with how to properly connect an electric hob with your own hands!

In addition, it should be noted that most standard failures can be indicated by a code on the display, while an intermittent signal sounds in addition. This code is the name of the error, which can be found in the attached instructions. To repair here or another malfunction on an existing error, you can find it on the thematic forums and read the reviews of those who have already encountered this problem and, perhaps, know why the equipment beeps.

Finally, I would like to summarize that most often the electric hob does not work due to a fuse failure or a broken contact. The least often the control unit breaks down, which is already difficult to repair yourself. We hope that now you know why this technique breaks down and what to do for DIY repair!

Related materials:

Previously, almost all household appliances were detached. However, progress is not out of place: now you can find many built-in items.

Glass ceramic hob

The hob has become a real find for many users - in fact, the same stove, only in a smaller size. This technique can be gas or electric. Among the latest options, users prefer glass-ceramic models, not only powerful, but also with an attractive appearance.

Creative surface design

The gas hob is no different from a conventional stove except for the absence of a built-in oven.To connect it, you only need a constant gas source and a fuel supply hose. The panel is easy to put on a pedestal. It is compact and does not take up much space, which makes the technique indispensable in small kitchens.

Like any household appliance, the hob is susceptible to all sorts of problems. One of the most common are non-working burners. The occurrence of this kind of malfunction is typical for both electrical and gas models. Repairs can be carried out on your own or by calling a mechanic. However, craftsmen can often take a lot of money for generally simple work.

We will figure out why such problems arise and how to repair the hobs with our own hands. Each type has its own characteristics, which will be considered.

Power relays providing power to the heating elements

The situation when the ignition system fails is one of the most common. The situation applies to both electric and gas hobs. It occurs in panels that have been in operation for five years. For new ones, this is more the exception than the rule. The reasons for the failures can be as follows:

Electrical ignition interrupted.
Weak gas control.
The gas burner is clogged. These can be both cleaning agent residues and food residues trapped under the gas burner lid.
The surface of the panel is flooded with water.
The button for turning on the supply of current or gas is faulty.

Next, let's look at the main causes of ignition problems and how to resolve them.

Let's say the hob is connected to the electrical network, but the button for turning on the burners does not work. This happens when the power supplied through the wires is insufficient for operation. This happens in houses with a weak power supply, or when the hob is connected to a tee. In this case, an electric voltage stabilizer comes in handy. When connecting electrical appliances to it, it begins to evenly distribute energy between all equipment. Thus, it is possible to provide the 220 volts necessary for the operation of the panel. Also, a voltage stabilizer will minimize the risk of burning electrical appliances in the event of a voltage surge or short circuit.

Electric voltage stabilizer

The following symptoms may indicate problems:

The hotplate does not turn on when the button is pressed.
The candles spark when switched on, but the cooking zones do not light up.
The panel turns off after releasing the start button.

Repairing a hob powered by electricity is possible in several ways.

Dirt on the hob, especially on the ignition mechanism, is the most common cause of sticking buttons. It occurs after splashing or boiling food during cooking. Over time, the dirt hardens, clogging the mechanism and the burners themselves. The solution to this problem is quite simple: wipe the surface and clean the nozzle with a needle. This will free the burner from burns and other particles that clog it. Once everything is dry, turn on the panel again and check if the hob will work.

Diagram of the structure of the burner from an electric stove

When the spark plugs are sparkling yellow or orange, this is a sure sign that the power supply is broken. If you notice sparking candles, then in this case you should disassemble the panel in order to get to the electronic filling of the device. It is necessary to act as follows:

Disconnect the hob from the mains.
Using a screwdriver and other tools at hand, remove the top cover.
Now disconnect the contacts from the power supply.

Thus, you can replace the block: just take the broken one and show it in the store to sales assistants who will offer a working part.

You can make sure that the problem is with the unit by turning on the hob in the dark.If the spark is blue, it means that the unit is working, if it is yellow or orange, it needs to be replaced.

Sparking yellow or orange light can also be due to oxidation of the candle stem. The problem is solved by replacing the defective part. It is worth noting that such problems are extremely rare and occur only where the concentration of moisture in the air exceeds all necessary standards for a long time.

It can also happen with too frequent transfusions. Particles of water can penetrate the inside of the panel, causing droplets to enter the wires or microcircuits. In this case, fast and high-quality drying will help, otherwise the candle rod may oxidize. Otherwise, the wires will coarse and can easily break, as a result of which you will have to completely replace the electronic filling of the hob.

The interior of the electric hob

Such problems are typical for hobs that have been used for a long time. The burners either light up for too long or go out after releasing the handle. This type of problem is caused by a clogged thermocouple. This mechanism is responsible for supplying gas to the burner. If the burners go out quickly, disassemble the burners, find the thermocouple and clean with the help of the handy items. A regular wire, needle or knife will do.

If the measures taken do not bring the desired effect, then perhaps the reason is a malfunction of the thermocouple itself or the magnetic valve. These parts will have to be replaced.

The induction model is considered one of the most high-tech and advanced on the world market. However, she is also not immune to all kinds of problems. Often, the heating quality of a particular dish depends on its type. So the hotplate does not turn on. Problems can be as follows:

They turned on the panel, but as soon as the button was released, it went out. In this case, the cause is not at all a malfunction of the ignition. Many induction hobs have a safety mechanism that reacts to the diameter or type of cookware on the hotplate. When you remove the cookware from the hotplate, it also turns off, and in this case nothing extraordinary will happen.
Interruptions when switching on the burners. This may be due to surface contamination. Salt is the most common cause of these problems. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth and dry the hob, after which the device will be completely at your disposal.
The hotplate does not turn on. In this case, all that remains is to disassemble the panel and check the contacts. If one of the wires or fuses burns out, then you will have to replace these parts with serviceable ones. The wires, if they are cut off, can be soldered on their own, but it is better to entrust such delicate work to professional craftsmen.

The interior of an induction hob

In this case, you do not have to figure out the reason for the sudden breakdown of the hob for a long time, since gas models have a rather uncomplicated and therefore intuitive design. Here, manufacturers use much less electronics and microcircuits, so repairing a gas hob, if it does not ignite, will be extremely simple.

If the burners do not light up or burn very weakly even at maximum settings, we repair the equipment according to the following scheme:

Check the cooking zones for clogging, especially the electric ignition.
If you find a lot of fluid or debris stagnant, try cleaning with a needle or fine, sharp stick.

In most cases, this will be sufficient. If the measures taken did not lead to the resumption of operation of the equipment, check the electrical circuit for serviceability.

The reason that the hob burners do not light can also be a delay or blockage of the gas flow.In this case, no repairs are required: just check the gas pipe.

If gas continues to flow when the tap is open, but the burners do not light up, clean the nozzles from debris or moisture. This can be done either with a long needle or with a cotton swab. To do this, follow these steps:

Remove the lid from the hotplate.
Carefully detach the burner from the stove.
We insert the sharp tip of a needle, an unbent paper clip or wire into the nozzle and carefully remove all stagnant debris: food particles, burn marks and other contaminants.

Now it remains to check how well the gas supply works. Remember: you cannot carry out a test without putting the iron cover from the burner in its place. The main thing here is to carry out prophylaxis on time and to prevent over-boiling of the food being cooked, and most importantly, not to fill in the nozzles while washing the stove, when the residues of the cleaning agent, settling under the burners, cause a blockage.

What do you need for daily food preparation? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home "hearth".

a kerosene burner - 5 decades ago it was a staple in any kitchen;
a gas stove is by far the most widespread "hearth";
electric stove - can be a separate element or an integrated component of the kitchen.

Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the cooking process), no one thought about the appearance of the electric stove.

Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive apparatus:

frame;
heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
thermostat (not present in every model);
mechanical heating regulator (spiral resistance switch).

It was possible to repair such a plate with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: a nichrome wire was wound on a regular pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden frame. The steel bar was inserted into the chuck and the winding process was much faster.

Then fashion trends of modern design came to the kitchen, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. There are hobs that are built into the worktop.

Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they have extended functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, and there are various security systems. Most of the products are equipped with touch control panels; a mechanical handle is not found even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.

The conventional spiral in ceramic insulator holders has long been discontinued. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect:

Having figured out the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.

If one of the burners does not work, you can survive. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged money for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.

Breakage of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more a mechanical than an electrical problem, the parts are quite repairable. As a last resort (eg halogen heater) simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
Failure of switching elements or conductors.These can be relays, contacts, thyristor switches. They are not the most difficult elements to repair.
Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, repairing these elements will not work. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.

Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be eliminated without disassembling the structure.

For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the direct power cable from the panel (including the outlet, if present). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the terminal block of the plate.

If the control panel does not work, check its dryness (if there are movable keys) and cleanliness (in the sensor unit). Oftentimes, a layer of dried spray just prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.

Panels that are built into the kitchen worktop are most often used. The appliance has an independent body with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully take out the panel and place it face down on a flat surface. It is recommended to disconnect the supply wires before starting disassembly. It will not be superfluous to remind you that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.

After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in a so-called working "trough" without separating barriers. The illustration shows a variant where HiLight heaters are installed on all burners.

Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When the fault is localized, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.

For example, you can remove a heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its functionality with the instrument.

Fault diagnostics is carried out from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring and the performance of the heating elements. The on-off control of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let this confuse you. All the same, the power supply is supplied by ordinary relays, which are checked with a multimeter.

A burnt-out spiral (tape) is usually replaced entirely; this is not the most expensive element. As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and the connection with a screw terminal for the spiral). This will allow the stove to work again for some time. Such a "splice" will live for several days, so buy a new spare part in the very near future.

Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.

The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, it is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.

As for the burnt wiring, you should pick up a wire with similar characteristics, make the whole harness, and replace it using end switches.

Contact groups are checked for strength and thermal damage before reassembly, cleaned and reassembled.

If after checking it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. Self-repair is possible only if you have specialized skills and a detailed electrical diagram.

If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to the brand workshop.It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar model of the hob. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.

Some craftsmen restore the hob to work by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly with a direct connection, this method has the right to life.

Only experienced electricians can repair induction hobs. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.

The induction hotplate either does not turn on at all, or the power is lost immediately after starting work. This can be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating plane, or the size does not correspond to the diameter of the hotplate, the automation will block the operation. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
The same problem (wrong cookware) can lead to the induction hob not working at full capacity.
Self-switching on of the heater may be due to contamination of the plate, or the presence of a massive steel (cast-iron) object next to it.

Real malfunctions, not related to a violation of the operating mode, manifest themselves in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails very rarely.

Typical diagram in the illustration:

In fact, there is no space technology here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly "burnt" radioelements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, there is no point in explaining the principle of checking the inductor generator, your level is sufficient for repair.

If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.

With the exception of a minimum percentage of real factory faults, most failures occur due to a violation of the connection and operation mode.

unstable mains voltage damages the electronics;
the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips through which moisture penetrates into the case.

But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.

Video (click to play).