In detail: the hob do-it-yourself gas repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The hob is one of the most important appliances in the kitchen, and, like any other technique, is prone to breakdowns, but making repairs with your own hands is quite simple. If a malfunction is discovered during the warranty period, your stove will be repaired free of charge. But if a breakdown occurs several years later, you can try to repair the hob with your own hands, since contacting specialists can cost a little less than buying a new stove.
In this article, our experts have listed all the malfunctions of the hob and step by step disassembled the process of repairing the malfunctions with their own hands.
The hob does not turn on - the most common malfunction of electrical panels, the device is plugged into the outlet, but does not work at all, or only one of the burners does not heat up. DIY repair can be disassembled into the following steps:
We check the voltage in the outlet; due to heavy loads, the contacts of the outlet often burn out.
We check the plug and cord for mechanical damage - they can simply shorten or even break the chain. Most often, damage is observed at the points where the panel is plugged into the outlet. Found damage - we replace the cord.
We turn off the power, remove the fasteners and dismantle the surface from the tabletop. We disassemble the surface and move on to the next step.
We take a multimeter and check the transformer, the next step is to check the thermal fuse. In the absence of resistance, or if it differs significantly from that declared by the manufacturer, parts must be replaced, they are sold in many electronics stores.
One hotplate on the hob does not work - it is necessary to check all the wires, as well as their connections to the burners, thermostat, switches, control panel for the fact of an open circuit. If the malfunction is not visually visible, all the contacts are in place, we take a multimeter and check each connection.
Video (click to play).
If you do not have a multimeter, you can use an indicator screwdriver for repairs, with which you can check the presence of voltage on all parts of the circuit. We also recommend watching a video that will help you repair the hobs yourself.
See also - How to install the hob in the worktop with your own hands
The main malfunctions that users of electric hobs may encounter are as follows:
See also - How to connect the hob with your own hands
Although induction panels are the most modern and high-tech devices, they are also not immune to malfunctions. We will analyze the main malfunctions of induction panels, and what repairs you can try to do yourself.
The induction hob does not turn on or turns off immediately - most often this is a feature of this type of panel, and not a malfunction. The induction hob has a protective function, if you use the wrong diameter or material of the cookware, the hob will automatically turn off the power, and the hotplate will not heat up. Also, the hotplate will turn off automatically if you remove the dishes from the surface.
The induction hob heats up for a long time and weakly - again, we read the requirements for the dishes in the instructions. 90% of induction hob malfunctions are associated with the wrong cookware.
The induction hob turns on automaticallyalthough there is no cookware on the hotplate.Remove all metal objects and clean the salt from the stove, if this does not help, you have a problem in the control unit, it needs to be repaired or replaced. Better to contact the service.
The induction hob does not work... The principle of diagnostics and repair does not change, specialists first of all check the fuse. then they ring the entire chain for an open circuit and replace the burnt-out part.
The last type of cooking appliances is a gas surface. One of the simplest and easiest to repair with your own hands. Less electronics are used, so there are not many faults and everything is easily eliminated.
Gas does not ignite or ignites poorly. We immediately check the electric ignition (piezo) for the presence of blockage or liquid. In 90% of cases, it is enough to wash it thoroughly and dry it. If this does not help, we check the presence of electricity in the circuit leading to the piezo coil.
The gas hob does not turn on because gas does not flow to the burner. Repair of hobs in these cases is not needed, prevention is enough. We check the gas pipe, if the valve is open and there is gas in the system, proceed to check the nozzles. The clogging occurs with fat or food debris, it is enough to clean it. Do not forget to wipe dry after cleaning, moisture should not remain. If moisture remains, the piezo will not ignite.
Modern hobs are equipped with sensors for detecting faults and diagnostic modules, an error code appears on the screen. We find the code in the instructions and follow the specified recommendations to eliminate a specific malfunction. Use the forums, there you can find real reviews and experiences on DIY repair from specialists and other users, namely your model with detailed instructions and photos.
If we analyze all the malfunctions of hobs that may occur during operation, we can say with confidence that most of them can be repaired by hand.
Fuse blown
Contact broke
The chain is broken
Cable damage
Clogged stove, nozzles
The heating element broke
Sensor does not work
All these malfunctions are eliminated by hand, if you are faced with a more complex problem and are not sure of your knowledge and strength, contact the service center.
What do you need for daily food preparation? High temperature and the ability to control the heat source. As it turned out, there are not so many types of home "hearth".
a kerosene burner - 5 decades ago it was a staple in any kitchen;
a gas stove is by far the most widespread "hearth";
electric stove - can be a separate element or an integrated component of the kitchen.
Let's consider the last option in more detail. When visiting the kitchen was an exclusively utilitarian affair (that is, the hostess was only interested in the cooking process), no one thought about the appearance of the electric stove.
Accordingly, from a technical point of view, it was a very primitive apparatus:
frame;
heating element (spiral or heating element in its own case);
It was possible to repair such a plate with a screwdriver and pliers in hand. Even the heating coil was easily made by hand: a nichrome wire was wound on a regular pencil. More advanced craftsmen used an electric drill and a wooden frame. The steel bar was inserted into the chuck and the winding process was much faster.
Then fashion trends of modern design came into the kitchen, and simple electric stoves no longer fit into kitchen corners and furniture sets. There are hobs that are built into the worktop.
Such household appliances are not only beautiful, they have extended functionality. The heating element is controlled by electronic controllers, and there are various security systems.Most of the products are equipped with touch control panels; a mechanical handle is not found even in economy class models. To repair a modern hob with your own hands, you must have basic knowledge of electronics.
The conventional spiral in ceramic insulator holders has long been discontinued. Instead, 3 types of electric heaters are used, both direct and indirect:
Having figured out the design of the heaters, you can repair your own hob.
If one of the burners does not work, you can survive. But the breakdown of the entire plate is already a problem. You can take the equipment to the workshop, but in addition to the cost of spare parts, you will be charged money for the work performed. If you know how to hold a soldering iron in your hands, and have at least a multimeter, you can repair the hob yourself.
Breakage of heating elements: for spiral or halogen burners, this is more a mechanical than an electrical problem, the parts are quite repairable. As a last resort (eg halogen heater) simple replacement. The induction emitter (winding) does not break in principle, the problem may be in the electronics.
Failure of switching elements or conductors. These can be relays, contacts, thyristor switches. They are not the most difficult elements to repair.
Electronic circuits: generator, transformer, controllers, control unit. Without a deep knowledge of electronics, repairing these elements will not work. In the best case, you can dismantle the faulty element and install a new one.
Before starting a complex repair, try to diagnose "problems" that can be eliminated without disassembling the structure.
For example, check the power supply from the incoming circuit breaker, before connecting the direct power cable from the panel (including the outlet, if present). The presence of power is checked with a multimeter on the terminal block of the plate.
If the control panel does not work, check its dryness (if there are movable keys) and cleanliness (in the sensor unit). Oftentimes, a layer of dried spray just prevents the touch buttons from "feeling" your fingers.
Panels that are built into the kitchen worktop are most often used. The appliance has an independent body with a decorative plane, under which the heating elements are located. Carefully take out the panel and place it face down on a flat surface. It is recommended to disconnect the supply wires before starting disassembly. It will not be superfluous to remind you that the wiring must be de-energized in advance.
After carefully dismantling the cover, we get full access to the "internal organs" of the panel. Any design has a similar layout: all electrical elements are located in a so-called working "trough" without separating barriers. The illustration shows a variant where HiLight heaters are installed on all burners.
Already at this stage, it is possible to visually diagnose the integrity of the wiring and spiral (tape) heaters. All blocks and modules are connected using connectors or contact terminals. When the fault is localized, you can easily remove the assembly for replacement or a more detailed check.
For example, you can remove a heater in an insulating housing, apply power to it, and check its functionality with the instrument.
Fault diagnostics is carried out from simple to complex. After the fuse, we check the wiring and the performance of the heating elements. The on-off control of the heating filament is carried out using PWM (pulse width modulation). Don't let this confuse you. All the same, the power supply is supplied by ordinary relays, which are checked with a multimeter.
A burnt-out spiral (tape) is usually replaced entirely; this is not the most expensive element.As a temporary measure, a mechanical connection can be made (rivet or screw for the tape, and the connection with a screw terminal for the spiral). This will allow the stove to work again for some time. Such a "splice" will live for several days, so buy a new spare part in the very near future.
Power relays cannot be restored, definitely - replacement.
The same applies to halogen heaters. Thermal elements are not repaired (in fact, it is an electric lamp), they are replaced with new ones.
As for the burnt wiring, you should pick up a wire with similar characteristics, make the whole harness, and replace it using end switches.
Contact groups are checked for strength and thermal damage before reassembly, cleaned and reassembled.
If after checking it turned out that all power conductors and elements (including heaters) are in order, the electronics remain. Self-repair is possible only if you have specialized skills and a detailed electrical diagram.
If you know for sure that it is the electronic module that does not work, and there is no way to professionally diagnose it, you can take this particular unit to the brand workshop. It will be checked (for a small fee) at the stand, or in a similar model of the hob. You can install a repaired or new unit in place yourself.
Some craftsmen restore the hob to work by changing the control scheme. For example, you can power the heating elements from a homemade manual control unit outside the main body. If the cost of restoring standard modules is too high, and the stove heats up properly with a direct connection, this method has the right to life.
Only experienced electricians can repair induction hobs. Without knowledge of the material, with a simple multimeter and pliers, the operation is doomed to failure. At the same time, many problems are not malfunctions at all: a common violation of the operating mode.
The induction hotplate either does not turn on at all, or the power is lost immediately after starting work. This can be a protective function: if you remove the dishes from the heating plane, or the size does not correspond to the diameter of the hotplate, the automation will block the operation. The same applies to aluminum or copper cookware.
The same problem (wrong cookware) can lead to the induction hob not working at full capacity.
Self-switching on of the heater may be due to contamination of the plate, or the presence of a massive steel (cast iron) object next to it.
Real malfunctions, not related to a violation of the operating mode, manifest themselves in the circuit of the inductive field generator. As we have already noted, the winding fails very rarely.
Typical diagram in the illustration:
In fact, there is no space technology here. The transformer converts the supply voltage, and the generator creates an increased frequency of oscillations of the electromagnetic field. After a visual inspection (for clearly "burnt" radioelements), the generator is checked using a home oscilloscope. If you have such a device, there is no point in explaining the principle of checking the inductor generator, your level is sufficient for repair.
If you do not have enough experience, you will have to contact the masters. In any case, repairing a single unit is not as expensive as buying a new panel.
With the exception of a minimum percentage of real factory faults, most failures occur due to a violation of the connection and operation mode.
unstable mains voltage damages the electronics;
the use of dishes that do not correspond to the dimensions of the heating surface leads to local overheating;
impacts, spilled liquid on a hot surface form cracks, chips through which moisture penetrates into the case.
But still, the main reason for equipment failure is ignoring the requirements of the instructions.