Vaz 05 DIY repair

In detail: vaz 05 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This site will help you repair and maintain your VAZ 2109 or VAZ 2108 car on your own without contacting a service station.

In each section you will find a lot of useful information on repair with detailed step-by-step instructions and photo reports of the work performed.

If you have questions in a particular topic, you can ask them in a suitable article, and the readers of the resource will try to help in solving your problem.

This material will be useful to all owners of VAZ 2109, 2108 and 21099 cars with injection engines, since it is on such models that the crankshaft position sensor is installed from the factory. DPKV is the part that you should have in stock ...

In case of sufficiently strong wear or uneven development of the front brake discs, they must be replaced with new ones, since the braking efficiency of the car is significantly reduced. Of course, there are special workshops in which you can grind the surface of the discs if there are scuffs, deep grooves on it ...

Today in car stores you can find a fairly large number of different models of starters. Of course, they can differ both in design and fastening, and in price, depending on the manufacturer. Below will be presented the main models of starters for the VAZ 2109-2108, as well as ...

A fairly common question that covers not only VAZ 2109-2108 cars, but probably all VAZs as a whole, since problems with starting the engine are quite common and similar machines. Of course, the topic is hackneyed, but to get an answer to your question, why ...

Video (click to play).

Another question that worries many owners of the VAZ 2109: why does the engine speed float at idle? There can be no unequivocal answer, like for many other questions. But you can give some recommendations and tips for finding and fixing these problems. On the …

If you have been familiar with cars for a long time and you often had to service them yourself, then you probably know that spark plugs should not be oiled, have black deposits or deposits. Moreover, one can even say that the symptoms listed above may speak ...

Often, the owners of VAZ 2109-2108 cars have problems in which the steering wheel begins to beat. And this can be especially evident at a more or less high speed. For example, at 60 km / h everything is still fine, but closer to 90-100 km / h the steering wheel starts ...

On domestic cars, especially experienced owners have this expression: "The engine eats oil." I think that it is unnecessary to say here once again that increased oil consumption is by no means a normal phenomenon. Of course, if a completely new motor starts to eat ...

Hello everyone. You all know that Grants are aggregated by “automatic machines” into which, according to the operation manual, oil is poured that can serve throughout the entire “life” of Lada Granta. Of course, no one or almost no one believes in this, except those who wrote the manual.

To drive safely is not enough just to have a working car or a lot of driving experience, you must first of all be healthy yourself. Very often, due to poor health or drugs, drivers make big mistakes on the road, which end in terrible accidents.

A working braking system is a guarantee of your safety! I spoke about this for a long time, in one of my previous articles. Today I am no less sure of this, and I want to talk about brake hoses, or rather, how to replace them with

Hello everyone! Today, in the “Tuning” heading, I’ll talk about how not expensive, at home, to improve the appearance of the “six” by installing rear-view mirrors on it from Lada Priora. The work is of medium complexity, therefore, if you have little experience and “direct

It is forbidden to operate a car with a faulty steering system! This is indicated in the traffic rules, and, I think, it is not difficult for yourself to guess what the danger of driving with a faulty steering system. However, it often happens that during operation, car owners do not notice signs of a malfunction,

The roads are full of surprises and in most cases unpleasant. Breakdowns now and then occur at the most inopportune moment. However, the good news is that most of these unpleasant surprises can be repaired and repaired without difficulty, even at home.

The braking system, like any other, requires attention. And if, for example, you have problems with the engine, for example, it does not develop revs, then this is not as bad as, for example, faulty brakes. Because it's one thing to accelerate and

Almost every owner of a VAZ car, be it a VAZ-2101 or a Lada Granta, has at least once faced a breakdown of his car. Of course, the most logical thing is to drive your VAZ-2106 or Lada Kalina to the service station. But sometimes the breakdown is insignificant, or the queue for an "appointment" to a specialist can take several days, and then it is easier for the car owner to try to make DIY VAZ repair.

So, you have planned to repair your VAZ-2109 or some other model. The easiest way to carry out all repair work is in the garage or box. The garage must have electricity and heating in winter. Repair of the VAZ-2112 will be faster and more successful if there is an inspection hole in your garage. Do not forget that the room in which you will be repairing the VAZ-2110 must be well ventilated.

In order to comply with technical safety measures, wheel chocks will not interfere. So you will securely fix the car and you can safely repair the VAZ-2104. The garage floor must be non-slip and the electrical area must have a rubber floor covering.

When the garage is ready, you can think about information support for the repair of the VAZ-2107. You can buy a manual for the maintenance and repair of a VAZ in any bookstore. If you have a mobile Internet, then it's generally great. A lot of useful information can be found on the sites, including even video instructions for repairing the VAZ-2102.

When repairing a VAZ-2103 or VAZ-2105, you will need a set of tools, which should include a jack, wrenches and socket wrenches, screwdrivers of different sizes, hammers, pliers, and a pry bar. The list goes on: the required tool depends, among other things, on what exactly happened to your VAZ-2108 or Lada Priora.

When carrying out any repairs to the VAZ-21099, stock up on a sufficient number of rags or rags, also water. Any repair is a "dirty" business.

If one of your friends offers you help in the process of troubleshooting the VAZ-2115, do not refuse. No matter how you equip your repair site, most of the work still requires an assistant. Even a completely unprepared person can be useful: submit a tool, bring a part, shine a flashlight, etc. Well, for safety reasons, it is still better to work together. In addition, in the process of repairing a VAZ-2113 or VAZ-2114, you may need to go to the store for the missing part.

Try not to repair the VAZ-2111 in poor lighting, if you are tired or do not feel well. The quality of your work affects not only the service life of the car, but also your life and the life of your passengers. In such a case as the repair of the VAZ-2113 there is no need to rush. And if you do realize that something is going wrong, it is better to go to the station.

Video on overhaul and assembly of an engine, a VAZ 2112 car, as well as detailed instructions with photo support for disassembling a VAZ 2110 engine.

Repairing the VAZ 2110 engine, like any other model of the car, is not an easy job, but still performed. If you are at least a little versed in the technique, then you will be able to perform it. To carry out repairs, you must at least disassemble the engine. We bring to your attention a hint on how and in what sequence to carry out such work.

3. Remove the tension roller, camshaft drive belt and spacer washer that is installed under the tension roller.

4. Remove the toothed pulley from the camshaft.

5. We unscrew four bolts, three of which are attached to the water pump. We unscrew the fastening nut on the rear cover of the camshaft drive belt and remove the cover.

6. To remove the water pump, insert a screwdriver between the block and the pump casing flange and thus slide it out of its seat. After completing these operations, we remove the water pump.

7. Remove the head from the cylinder block.

8. Unscrew the bolts (16 of them) securing the oil sump, then remove it together with the gasket.

9. Unscrew the bolts (3 of them) fastening the oil receiver and remove it. Note that there are spring washers under the bolt heads.

11. Then rotate the crankshaft so that the piston that is being removed hits the BDC (bottom dead center). It is necessary to unscrew the two fastening nuts to remove the connecting rod cover.

12. Now remove the connecting rod cover. In the case when it is difficult to dismantle the cover, you can first touch it with light hammer blows. It may be that the number of the cylinder on the cover will be invisible, in which case the cover should be marked with the number of the cylinder.

13. Using the hammer handle, push the connecting rod into the cylinder, then carefully remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder. In the process, you need to make sure that the lower head of the connecting rod does not touch the cylinder mirror, as this can damage it. Remove the rest of the pistons in the same way.

14. If it is necessary to remove the piston from the connecting rod, then we mark it with the cylinder number so as not to confuse them during installation. On the connecting rod, the same must be the cylinder number: if it is not visible, then we mark the connecting rod.

16. Unscrew the bolts (there are 6), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal holder and gasket. Remember that there are spring washers under the bolt heads.

17. From the crankshaft, remove the toothed pulley. In the case when the key does not sit tightly in the groove of the shaft elbows, be sure to take it out so that it does not get lost.

18. Unscrew the six bolts, under the heads of which there are spring washers, and remove the oil pump and gasket.

19. We unscrew the mounting bolts on five caps (each with 2 bolts) of the main bearings.

21. Remove the crankshaft of the VAZ 2110 car.

22. We carry out the removal on the middle support of the persistent half rings of the crankshaft.

23. If it is not planned to replace the liners, then as they are removed, we take them out of the block beds and from the main bearing caps.

24. On the non-working side, we mark the inserts relative to the beds and covers.

25. If there is a need to remove the engine mounts and generator brackets, unscrew the bolts (3 pieces) of their fastening and remove the supply pipe of the water pump by unscrewing its fastening.

26. Remove the piston rings using a special puller. If there is no such device, then remove the rings from the piston, carefully opening the ring locks.

27. Remove the oil scraper ring expander spring from the engine piston.

28. The retaining rings that hold the piston pin are removed from both sides of the piston. Recesses are provided in the piston bosses for easy removal of the rings.

29. Using a suitable mandrel, push the pin out of the piston, then remove the piston from the connecting rod.

30. Take out the inserts from the connecting rod and its cover. If they remain on the crankshaft, remove them from the shaft.If the replacement of the liners is not required, then as they are removed, we mark them with respect to the numbers of caps and connecting rods.

This completes the process of disassembling the VAZ 2110 engine. Successful completion of the renovation.

If the generator fails on the way, it is necessary to disconnect the generator excitation winding to reduce the battery power consumption, remove the fuse No. 10 in the VAZ-2101, -2102, -2103, -2106, No. 9 models in the VAZ-2105 and -2107 models and at the same time disconnect the wire from the terminal "30/51" of the PC702 relay of the battery charge lamp.

If gaps have formed in the conductive strips of the rear window heater of VAZ-2105, -2107 cars, then the electrical contact can be restored with graphite powder mixed with a small amount of epoxy glue. This mixture is carefully smeared with damaged areas.

If the starter does not turn on, then a possible reason is the burning of the contacts for turning on the starter relay in the ignition lock. It is possible to resume the operation of the starter by removing the red wire from the terminal "50" of the ignition switch and connecting it to one of the terminals "16" (they are free).

To prevent the possibility of burning the contacts of the ignition lock, you need to get rid of the induced EMF self-induction that occurs at the moment the starter is turned on. Connect a diode parallel to the starter relay coil in the circuit: D305, D214, D215, D242-D248. Contacts will not burn.

To make it easier to remove the brake drum on VAZ cars, you can try to heat it by pouring boiling water over it; in no case should it be heated with a blowtorch or a gas burner - the drum will warp from local overheating, or even crack. And when it heats up, screw two bolts into the holes provided for this and it is quite easy to separate the drum from the axle shaft flange. When re-installing, lubricate the seats with a thin layer of "Litola-24" or other grease.

During operation, grooves are formed on the working surface of the drum, and a shoulder is formed at the edge. It is necessary, as they say, to grind the drums. This can be done without a lathe, right on the machine. Raise one of the rear wheels and place a secure stand. Remove the wheel and drum. Turn it over and re-fasten it, as if turning it inside out, with the work surface out. Start the engine, engage first gear. The suspended drum will start to rotate. Move the emery stone (or sharp scraper) to the surface to be treated. The correctness of the circumference of the machined surface will hardly change, since the cutting tool is not rigidly fixed (in your hand).

Close the jacks under the jack with champagne plugs, and you will get rid of the need to clean them of accumulated (and also frozen) dirt when replacing a wheel. In addition, mud mixed with snow and salt (sprinkled on the roads in winter) creates pockets of corrosion.

You can lubricate the door lock drive mechanism without disassembling the door trim. Remove the top of the three lock fastening screws (the screws are located at the end of the door) and through this hole apply a little engine oil to the drive mechanism using an oiler. Turning with your fingers, work out the lock rotor and add some more oil. Then the lock and release button will work easily and securely.

It is better not to cut the holes in the synthetic carpet of the car (VAZ-2103, -2106, etc.), but burn it with a soldering iron (for example, to secure the lower ends of the seat belts).

By installing an additional pressure sensor MM-393A (used on PAZ-2103, -2106), you can constantly monitor the oil pressure on VAZ-2101, -21011 cars. A gasoline level indicator can be used as a device for recording oil pressure by connecting it via a toggle switch.Now the pointer will show either the gasoline level or the oil pressure (depending on the position of the toggle switch). With regard to oil pressure, its extreme (maximum) position will correspond to 8 kg / cm2, average 4 kg / cm2.

You can increase the durability of the steering rod joints by eliminating the gaps between the rubber boot and the hinge pin (gaps appear due to aging and stretching of dustproof rubber boots!) To do this, use an O-ring made of porous rubber or foam rubber 10-15 mm thick, which is used to close the gap.

If the charge indicator lamp is constantly on when the engine is running, one of the reasons may be a breakdown of one or more rectifier diodes in the generator. To check the health of the diodes without instruments, turn off the ignition and remove the opening from the battery terminal. If the diode is broken, then both when disconnecting and connecting the wire, the click of the battery charge indicator lamp relay will be clearly heard.

The idle solenoid valve may work due to oxidation of the casing at the contact of the coil slip ring. In this case, use a sharp screwdriver to flare the casing from the side of the plug, remove the coil and clean the oxidized areas with fine sandpaper. If the reason for the failure is the burnout of the defective coil winding, then the winding is removed and a new one is wound from a wire with a diameter of 0.14 mm in enamel insulation. The number of turns is 3000 ± 10, the winding resistance is 150–360 Ohm. One end is soldered to the slip ring, the other to the plug. After installing the coil in place, the casing is rolled up, and the seam is coated with BF-2 glue.

Sometimes the shut-off needle sticks and does not open the valve, causing the engine to stop idling. To eliminate it, the valve is turned out of the carburetor, the jet is removed from it and a little oil is instilled into the hole in the body. This usually helps to completely restore the mobility of the shut-off needle and the functionality of the entire valve.

Loose door hinges can be repaired without removing them from the car (it is very difficult to unscrew the large screws securing the hinges to the body). They knock out the old axles and remove the doors. Then the hinges are reamed so as to eliminate the elliptical working. Grind new axles so that they fit tightly into the drilled holes of the hinges, and hang the doors.

If there is a need to remove the hinges (it is possible to install new ones), then you can try to unscrew them using a screwdriver with a welded nut. A nut of a suitable size is put on a "powerful" screwdriver, welded to the handle. Now, pressing the screwdriver, rotate it with an open-end wrench. If this method does not help, then you can unscrew the screws only by heating them (for example, with a gas burner) and immediately cooling them with water! This operation should be carried out 2-3 times. In a workshop environment, these screws can be loosened with special impact screwdrivers.

It is possible to repair the ball joint with an enlarged pin picket due to wear of the plastic bearing by placing the support, cleaned of dirt, in a vessel with boiling engine oil. The plastic bearing expands and, after cooling, selects a gap between the pin and the housing.

For accurate valve adjustment, the camshaft must be adjusted more accurately. When adjusting the valves, the crankshaft turns 180 ° and the camshaft 90 °. For a more accurate installation (as well as to simplify adjustment work), it is recommended to install additional marks on the camshaft sprocket (each mark will be located at an angle of 90 ° relative to the other). The first mark (main) is located between the 1st and 38th (last) teeth of the sprocket, the second is opposite the 10th tooth of the sprocket, the third is between the 19 and 20 teeth and the fourth is opposite the 29th tooth of the camshaft sprocket. You need to put marks with a sharp punch.

If, after running 40–45 thousand km, the Zhiguli generator began to work with a whistling sound, it can be assumed that there is no lubrication in the bearing of its shaft.Since the generator cover is made non-separable, to lubricate the bearing, drill a hole with a diameter of 1.2 mm in the center of the cover and insert 3-4 drops of diesel oil with an oiler. Usually this lubricant is enough for 50-60 thousand km. And then the hole must be tightly closed with a wooden cork.

The "ignition" coil 27.3705, used on VAZ-2108 and -2109 cars, cannot be replaced with a conventional B117, as the electronic switch may fail.

The largest part of the failures of the electronic ignition system of VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109 cars falls on the switch. Most often, failures occur:

• due to violation of connections in the circuit;

• formation of parasitic conductive paths in the circuit;

• due to leaks in the housing;

• due to failure of the KD202 diode - in the diagram D7.

If in the VAZ-2108 1-21WI a dead battery does not rotate the crankshaft, and there is no way to start the engine on the move, try to do it like this. Apply the parking brake, jack up the left front wheel, close the carburetor choke, engage fourth or fifth gear. Now, with gloved hands (so as not to injure your hands), rotate the suspended wheel in the direction of travel. When the engine starts running, shift into neutral and remove the jack.

In Zhiguli cars, over time, an oil leak appears from under the cylinder head, which cannot be eliminated by tightening the nuts. In this case, a thin (11 mm) cardboard gasket 3-4 mm wide is inserted into the groove made in the cover of the rubber gasket and the nuts securing the cover are tightened with a force sufficient only for some deformation of the rubber gasket.

After changing the oil (and oil filter) in the engine, the lubrication system after the 1st start remains dry until the filter itself is filled with oil. This can adversely affect the operation of some engine components. Therefore, it is filled with fresh engine oil prior to installation.

If the ignition is too early or too late, the engine does not work properly, as a result of which its power decreases and fuel consumption increases (up to 30%). Therefore, the ignition must be set exactly in accordance with the engine manufacturer's data.

In VAZ-2103 and -2106 cars, the dipped beam threads of the A12.45 + 40 double-filament lamps installed in the internal headlights are not used, so here you can use lamps with a burned-out dipped beam filament from the end headlights, where this thread works more and usually comes out first out of service.

Detailed instructions and guidance for adjusting valves on a VAZ 2109 In this article, a detailed guide is provided on how to properly adjust the valves on a VAZ 2109 carburetor 16 valve engine. How to adjust the valve on a VAZ 2109 carburetor Before you start adjusting, ... Read more →

Why is the transmission to the VAZ 2109 checkpoint turned off? Despite the skepticism about the VAZ family cars, it is safe to say that these are quite reliable cars and, with the proper level of service, serve their owners for a long time and regularly. But, like ... Continue reading →

Instructions and tips for adjusting the carburetor VAZ 2109 This article provides detailed instructions on how to properly adjust the carburetor on a VAZ 2109, Solex. The first thing to start with is setting the level in the float chambers. The manual says that the level in ... Continue reading →

Replacing the VAZ 2109 front hub bearing In order to replace the VAZ 2109 front hub bearing, you need to rip off the hub nut and unscrew it, then rip off the four nuts on the wheel. After jacking up the car (the side on which you are going to change the bearing). Then you need to ... Continue reading →

How to replace the front hub bearing of a VAZ, Detailed step-by-step instructions for replacing the front hub bearing with a VAZ classic. Replacing the bearing on the front hub of a VAZ To replace the bearing on the front hub, you need to rip off the nuts on the wheel.Then jack up that side of the car on ... Continue reading →

How to remove the engine sump on a VAZ Lada cars, up to the VAZ 2107 brand, the principle of removing the engine sump is the same. Because these machine models have the same pallets. And so, before removing the sump, you need to drain all the oil from the engine. For… Continue reading →

How to remove a support for a VAZ Every motorist has encountered such a problem when, when braking a car, the brakes do not work well or evenly, which leads to unsafe driving and can lead to accidents on the roads. In this… Continue reading →

A step-by-step guide on how to remove an axle shaft on a VAZ 2107 To remove or replace an axle shaft on a VAZ classic, you first need to rip off the nuts from the wheel (just rip off). Next, you need to jack up the car (we raise the side on which the axle shaft will be removed) and then unscrew it completely ... Continue reading →

Dmitry Bubenchikov on How to replace the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2109
Andrey on How to replace the front wheel bearing of a VAZ 2109
Sasha on How to replace the heater tap of a VAZ 2107
vpenzu on How to remove a brake drum on a VAZ classics
Bubenchikov Dmitry on How to remove a gas tank on a VAZ 2107

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Repair of VAZ. On this site we will post information of interest to the owners of cars of all brands of vases. Let's cover the topic of exploitation, VAZ repairtroubleshooting.

After all, the repair of Lada of all brands, as a rule, is caused by necessity. And the reason for this is design flaws, low-quality spare parts, disgusting condition of the road surface. By the way, I will give one example about low-quality spare parts. Once sitting at home in front of the TV and switching channels, I came across a program dedicated to hado technology. Now I will not describe the entire transfer in all details, I will highlight the essence. And the essence is that the developers of hado technology suggested that the AVTOVAZ concern at the assembly stage process some parts with a special lubricant that prolongs the service life of the parts being processed. To which the heads of VAZ replied - That the VAZ concern exists for 75% of the sale of spare parts. I think that says it all! ...

I'll tell you a little more, I myself am the owner of the VAZ troika, produced in 1974, and I am its third owner. More than once, faced with the problem of operating and repairing Zhiguli, I climbed into and-no, in search of various information I needed. I downloaded scanned books in PDF, WinDJVIev-format, visited various forums and sites. Yes, the Internet is just teeming with information about repair of vases and other cars, cars and trucks. But with all the abundance, there are few sites that combine information together, that is, exactly what may be of interest to the immediate owner for troubleshooting a vase, so I will try to collect all the information on repairing a vase of all models, carefully arrange and place on this site. I also plan to make versions for printing (by the way, it's a very convenient thing, you print an A4 page with the information you need on a printer, file it into a transparent polyethylene file and use it). The costs are penny, cheaper than buying a VAZ repair manual, you are not afraid to get dirty, or fill it with oil. And in case of loss or damage it is easily restored, I recommend

The history of the vase and all its modifications, from serial models to experimental ones, will also be described. Perhaps someone will be interested in this too.

In the operation of any car, there comes a time when it is necessary to overhaul the engine. Vaz 2108 and the entire family of these motors have a resource of up to 250,000 km. But, as practice shows, they usually take care of no more than 200,000 km.So, what can be the reasons for the failure, as well as how to carry out a major overhaul with your own hands.

In the operation of any car, there comes a time when it is necessary to overhaul the engine. Vaz 2108 and the entire family of these motors have a resource of up to 250,000 km. But, as practice shows, they usually take care of no more than 200,000 km. So, what can be the reasons for the failure, as well as how to carry out a major overhaul with your own hands.

The reasons for the overhaul of VAZ 2108-2115 engines are quite simple and almost do not differ from the rest of the engines of other cars. The only advantage of Lada is that the power units are easily diagnosed. So, let's consider the main reasons that can serve as the reason that the motor needs "capital":
• Emulsion in the pallet.
• With good fuel and ignition, the car "eats" too much gasoline.
• Increased oil consumption.
• There are extraneous noises in the power unit itself and the block head.
• The engine does not start well at start. This is due to the cranking of the crankshaft.
• Breakdowns on gaskets.
• Understated compression.
• Other reasons.
All these reasons can serve as the fact that the engine needs to be repaired. Some of the processes can be carried out in the garage, but for some you will have to contact a specialized station.

Basically, the same parts will be needed for an engine overhaul. Consider the main spare parts that change during the repair and restoration work of the 2108 motor:
1. Repair kit for engine gaskets.
2. Oil and oil filter.
3. Inserts connecting rod and root, produced by AvtoVAZ. The repair size is determined after diagnosing the crankshaft.
4. Camshaft.
5. Timing kit (belt + roller).
6. Alternator belt.
7. Carburetor repair kit.
8. Valves, guide bushings, seats, valve seals.
9. Piston kit (piston, compression rings, pins).
10. Connecting rod bushings (repair size).
11. Spark plugs and high voltage wires.
These are the main parts that may be needed in order to overhaul an engine of the VAZ 2108 family.

Before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to perform a number of operations that cannot be performed in the garage. To do this, you will have to contact a car service that deals with boring and honing of the cylinder block, as well as the bulkhead of the block head.
So let's start with the cylinder head:
1. The head of the block is washed with hot kerosene. It cleans up dirt and shavings perfectly.
2. Disassembly of the head is as follows.
3. With the help of a special device, we remove the valve crackers, plates, inner and outer springs.

4. Remove the camshaft with the housing. After that, we unscrew the studs.

5. We take out the glasses and adjusting washers.

6. Dismantle the camshaft oil seal.

8. Next, it is necessary to knock out the seats and guide bushings.
9. Grinding of the plane is carried out using a special machine.
10. We make a sweep of the guide bushings for the new valves.
11. Grinding of the valve chamfers and fitting of the seats are carried out simultaneously.
12. Next, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

When the cylinder head has been repaired, you can start boring the engine and assembling.
The cylinder block is bored for a new piston group on a special machine.

The average cost of such an operation is about 2,000 rubles. Also, in parallel, the pistons are adjusted by weight, as well as the chamfer adjustment.
If necessary, grind the surface of the cylinder block. This is done using a special flat grinding machine. Also, it is necessary to fit the size of the crankshaft that is being machined. The most common sizes for the VAZ 2108 are 0.25, 0.5, 0.75.Above these indicators, it is not worth boring to / shaft, because at any moment, it may lose its hardness and then trouble in the form of a rupture may occur, which will entail the replacement of the power unit.
When the crankshaft and block head are repaired, you can start assembling. It is carried out in the reverse order from disassembly. But recall the sequence:
1. Installation of the piston group.
2. Laying the crankshaft.
3. Installing bushings and fixing the crankshaft.
4. Assembling the oil pump and oil scraper.
5. Fixing the pallet.
6. Installation of pulleys.
7. Installation of the cylinder head.
8. Installing the valve cover.
As mentioned earlier, the assembly is carried out back to disassembly.

Running-in becomes an important stage in the overhaul of the engine. This procedure is not complicated, and, as it were, serves as a diagnosis and control of the correct assembly. So, at engine repair shops, this is done at a special stand. But, if repairs are carried out by hand, then it is necessary to install the motor on the car. The assembly sequence is the reverse of disassembly.
When everything is secured and installed, it is necessary to fill in oil, as well as pump the fuel. It is recommended, along the way with a major overhaul of the engine, to sort out the carburetor. Also, new spark plugs and high voltage wires must be installed.
If the engine starts the first time, then you need to look for a leak, with under the gaskets, and also pay attention to the sounds. If there is no extraneous noise, then everything is done, right. If so, you will have to disassemble it and fix the malfunction until it works like new.

Video (click to play).

Thus, it can be seen that the overhaul of the engine of the VAZ 2108 family can really be carried out in the garage. Of course, some operations will have to be done at a car service using special equipment, but everything else can be done by hand.

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