Vaz 2104 starter DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself vaz 2104 starter repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Welcome!
A starter - it is very important for every car, without it the car would simply not start while standing still and you would simply have to constantly push it in order to somehow revive it and start the engine. But nevertheless, over time, the starter becomes unusable and it will need to be replaced, but why change it if it can be simply repaired, or maybe it only has a faulty starter retractor relay, so it does not start the car, so in order not to run into car shop ahead of time, you can try to disassemble the faulty starter first, see which part has become unusable, then go to the car shop and buy it, and nothing needs to be replaced.

But how to disassemble a starter removed from a car, few know, and therefore, especially for such people, we have prepared this article, in which we described in detail the process of repairing a starter on cars of a classic family.

Note!
To repair an old starter, you will need to stock up on: The main set of wrenches, pliers, as well as two screwdrivers, one of which will be a cross-type and the other flat (Flat type, if possible, take two screwdrivers at once), and you will also need to take vernier calipers, hammer and conventional mandrels with which it will be possible to press and press out the bearings (bushings) that are inside the starter without hindrance!

Summary:

When should the starter be repaired?
Basically, the repair of this unit is everyone's business, so to speak, that is, someone wants to do this, and someone does not at all, that is, a person will go and buy himself a new starter, but nevertheless, in both of these situations, the question will arise, how to understand that that the starter does not work?

Video (click to play).

Before analyzing this question, let's understand what the starter in the car is responsible for. As mentioned earlier, the starter is needed in order to start the car, so if the starter is faulty, the first problem that the car will have is that it will not start, when turning the key in the ignition, various kinds of clicks can occur, but the car will not start will. (In this case, this malfunction can be associated either with the solenoid relay, or with the brushes that are installed in the inside of the starter motor)

The next malfunction is associated with the copper contacts of the starter, it happens that these contacts burn out and, in connection with this, the starter starts to spin the car engine poorly, thereby your car starts up not in 1 second as it was before, but for example in 3-10 seconds, but maybe more, it all depends on how much the contacts are burnt.

And the starter can just as badly spin the engine due to worn bushings, which are also located in the inside of the starter motor.

And the last malfunction is when the starter itself is spinning, but at the same time it does not spin the engine at all. This malfunction can be caused due to the bendix, which you will need to change so that the engine starts to spin normally.

Note!
You can find more details on how to check a starter for serviceability in the article entitled: "Checking a starter for serviceability"!

Note!
Before proceeding with the repair, we note one important detail, this article on repair refers only to the starter model of which is "35.3708"!

Disassembly:
1) At the beginning of the operation, unscrew the nut that is located closer to the starter motor with a wrench, and after unscrewing, remove the starter winding terminal from the pin of the contact bolt, removing the spring and two flat washers.

2) Then unscrew the three screws that secure the retractor relay to the cover, and after unscrewing, carefully remove the relay while holding its armature.

3) After you held the armature thus it did not budge, and the retractor relay was carefully disconnected from it, put the relay aside and grasp the armature thereby remove the spring from it.

4) Next, grasp the anchor with your hand and pull it straight up, and when it comes out of engagement with the lever that holds it, calmly remove the anchor from the cover and thereby completely remove it.

5) Now when the anchor is removed, use a screwdriver to unscrew the two screws that secure the cover to the electric motor and then detach this cover and set it aside.

6) After the cover is removed, continue to hold the electric motor and then remove from its central part, first by prying the shaft retaining ring with a screwdriver, and then the washer indicated by the arrow.

7) Next, unscrew the two tightening bolts with a wrench and then, as shown in the photo in the upper corner, separate the cover together with the main motor, also called the rotor, from the body.

8) Then remove all screws (only one screw is shown in the photo) that hold the stator windings.

9) Next, look into the inside of the stator and remove the insulating tube from there.

10) Now, when the insulating tube is removed, separate the stator itself and the cover in which several stator elements remain, which will later need to be removed as well.

11) Then turn over the cover with the stator elements as shown in the figure, and after turning it over, remove the jumper from the brush holder.

12) Then remove all stator brushes and their springs using a screwdriver.

Note!
When the brushes are removed, check them with a caliper and if their height is less than 12 mm, then replace these brushes with new ones!

13) Next, take a mandrel of a suitable diameter in your hands and use it to press out the rear bearing, some also call this bearing a bushing.

14) Now again take the cover with the rotor in it and then remove the cotter pin of the drive lever shaft with pliers.

Read also: DIY Scarlet Scale Repair

Their advantage lies in the fact that even if the battery is partially discharged, the starter, due to the gearbox, provides a sufficient number of flywheel revolutions to start the engine. The price for such models starts at 3500 rubles. The cost of replacing a starter at a service station is on average 500-600 rubles.

socket wrench for 10;

socket wrench with extension 13;

screwdriver.

We put the car on a viewing hole or overpass, fix it with a parking brake.

Open the hood, disconnect the ground wire from the battery.

Unscrew the bolt of the lower fastening of the starter heat shield by 10.

We dismantle the air filter housing and the warm air supply hose (for injection rooms - remove the fasteners of the inlet pipeline).

Using a socket wrench with an extension of 13, unscrew the 3 bolts of the starter housing. It is better to unscrew the lower bolt from the inspection hole.

Using a 13 wrench, unscrew the nut (on the injection one - two nuts) securing the starter shield. We extract it.

Using a socket wrench with an extension of 13, unscrew the 3 bolts of the starter housing. It is better to unscrew the lower bolt from the inspection hole.

With the same tool, unscrew the nut that secures the tip of the wire going to the "+" of the battery.

Disconnect the start relay wire.

We remove the starter from the rear wall of the engine compartment.

We install a new starter in its place.

We carry out assembly work in the reverse order.

With a new starter installed, turn on the ignition and start the engine. There should be no extraneous sounds. The starter should turn on when the solenoid relay clicks and stop when the ignition key is pushed back.

Yesterday I decided to disassemble my used starter completely in order to show by an illustrative example how it is disassembled and subsequently repaired. I will also describe the retractor relay, which is often the reason for the inoperability of the starter itself. Perhaps it's worth starting with this.

All this is best done on the removed part, which can be read about here. After that, using a deep head and a wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the cover to the body, as is clearly shown in the photo below:

When all the nuts are unscrewed, it is necessary to press on all the bolts from the same side, and pull them out from the back side:

Now carefully fold the relay cover, but not completely, as the wire will interfere:

Pay attention to the central copper plate: it will definitely need to be cleaned of plaque and carbon deposits, if any. Also, it is necessary to unscrew the pennies themselves (only two pieces) by unscrewing two nuts on the outside of the lid:

And then you can take them out with your hands from there, from the back side:

Also clean them thoroughly with fine sandpaper to a shine:

After completing this simple procedure, you can reinstall everything in the reverse order. If the problem was precisely in burnt dimes, then it will surely disappear!

The brushes on the starter can also wear out and cause unit failure. In this case, they must be replaced. On cars of the "classic" family, starters are slightly different from each other. But there won't be much difference in the replacement of brushes. It will be necessary to either remove the back cover, under which they are located, after unscrewing a couple of bolts. Or, unscrew just one bolt that pulls together the protective bracket, under which the brushes are located:

And this is how everything looks after:

There are 4 brushes in total, each of which is available for removal through a separate window. It is enough just to unscrew one bolt of its fastening:

And then pressing the spring clip, pry it off with a screwdriver, and it can be easily removed:

All the others are removed in the same way, and you need to change them all at once. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

In order to disassemble the starter, we need the following tool:

Socket head 10
Ratchet or crank
Impact or power screwdriver turnkey
Flat screwdriver
Hammer
Power screwdriver wrench (in my case, 19)

First, unscrew the two nuts with a 10 wrench, which are shown below:

Then remove the cover by prying it off with a screwdriver if necessary:

After that, you can remove the housing from the pins along with the winding:

If it is necessary to replace the winding, then this is where we need a power screwdriver. It is necessary to unscrew 4 bolts on the body on each side, as clearly shown below:

After that, the plates pressing the winding fall, and it can be safely removed:

Since the part with the anchor is free, we can begin to dismantle it. To do this, use a thin screwdriver to pry on the plastic bracket, in the photo below it is shown after the shift:

And we take out the anchor from the front cover of the starter housing:

And to remove the coupling with the shaft, you must again remove the retaining ring with a screwdriver:

And after that it is easy to remove it from the rotor shaft:

If it is necessary to repair or replace certain parts, we buy new ones and install them in the reverse order.

So I want to talk about how I went over my old ST-221 starter of Bulgarian production 🙂 Every day he turned the engine worse and worse, at first I sinned on the battery, but when I tested my battery on another car, it turned out that everything was ok with him and he twists that crazy. Then a decision was made - to temporarily remove a whole starter from a friend from a frozen cornfield so that the car would not stand idle and to dismantle its starter to try to restore.

In order to remove the anchor with the bendix from the front cover, we need to knock out such a stopper (circled in red) by first removing the cotter pin with which it is fixed so that it does not fly out:

After I took out the cotter pin, I knocked out this stopper with that crap that is circled in blue in the previous photo 😉 Next, calmly take out the anchor with the bendix and get this kind of disassembled version:

So then I started revising the state of the starter. First of all, I drew attention to the condition of the brushes, here is a photo:

As you can see in the photo, the wear of one of the brushes is 100% two percent 80 and one miraculously survived in a more or less decent condition. Next, we remove the protective cover from the back cover (it is made there like a clamp) and we get access to the brushes:

We unscrew the bolts with which the contacts of the brushes are screwed and then we pull back the spring pressing the brush and take it out. and so all four in turn. You can now separate the rear cover from the middle of the starter. Here is her view after I walked over it with a wire brush:

Pay attention to the small cap - you need to remove it in order to knock out the old sleeve and hammer in a new one. I pushed it out simply - I picked up a sword of a suitable diameter and screwed it into the old sleeve, thereby squeezing out the cap (circled in red), like this:

We also see the part circled in blue, as I later learned this is the brake disc of the cover.I had it split and it was decided to replace it. I decided to replace the bushings too, because they were somewhat broken-down 🙂 It was not a problem to knock out the bushings, they come out easily. So here are the new replacement parts - two bushings, four brushes and a stopper:

I will immediately make a reservation about the quality of spare parts. Finding quality bushings was not easy, at least with us. I took the first bushings because their outer diameter was an order of magnitude larger, and my advice to you - if you come across such bushings and there are a lot of them on the market now - DO NOT try to press them in - cripple the starter, nafig will burst. Take them back, take the old ones with you, pick them up. And remember - branded (read factory bushings) are saturated with oil (visually this is not visible, but if you heat them you will see how it stands out) and they are pressed in with a bang, you can just carefully hammer them in with a hammer. Before pressing in the bushings, I recommend that the parts of the starter (cover) be cleaned from the outside and from the inside with a metal brush. Here are the already cleaned parts with bushings pressed in by me before assembling the starter:

Next, we collect everything in the reverse order, do not forget to pin the stopper that holds the fork in the front starter cover. I decided to change the retractor, because the new one was bought a long time ago and the old one sometimes failed, apparently the contacts were burnt, I took a Bulgarian retractor for the complete set, one to one like my old one:

Sobsno, after assembly, install the starter in place and enjoy its performance. For me personally, he began to twist just fine, which is what I wish for you. If you have any questions - ask on the forum! Good luck to everyone and fewer breakdowns.

The article describes in great detail with a photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.

In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter are rare. But if the car has served for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine the malfunction of the starter - the car does not start, uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.

But many motorists do not pay attention to such signals from the car. And they bring the situation to the point that it is no longer possible to "save" the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car, immediately, by the sound of a working car, will determine the malfunction of this part. So how do you fix a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.

1. First, you need to remove the starter from the car. Now we proceed to disassemble the part.

3. Disconnect the tire from the traction relay contact bolt.

4. Carefully remove the two bolts that hold the traction relay.

5. The traction relay must be removed from the starter.

6. Set aside the starter itself and remove the armature from the traction relay. To do this, lift it up and the anchor loop is released from the lever.

7. Now we return to the starter itself. Remove the tie rod nuts.

8. The next step is to remove the cover from the drive end with the gearbox and the same assembly part.

9. The cover must also be removed from the side of the collector with brushes and brush holders.

10. Then remove the gear from the anchor shaft.

11. Pull the anchor itself out of the starter.

12. The anchor shaft has a washer on the drive side (pay special attention to this).

13. Use a screwdriver or other thin object to remove the anchor shaft support.

14. Then use a small screwdriver to remove the two tie rods from the starter cover. In general, it is not necessary to remove them, if you are in a hurry, you can leave them, however, it is more convenient to remove the drive and gearbox without these pins.

15. Then remove the three gears of the reducer. A breakdown of the starter may consist precisely in the fact that these gears have damaged, broken teeth or needle bearings embedded in the gears. If this defect is present, then replace the parts and the starter will work again.

16. But, if the gears are in order, then continue to disassemble and check the starter for damage further.It is necessary to remove the gearbox with the drive from the cover, after pressing on the gear of the starter drive.

17. The support with the seal must be removed from the lever.

19. Use a hammer to knock the stop ring off the retaining ring using a suitable arbor.

20. Carefully remove the retaining ring first and then the stop ring.

21. Remove the actuator assembly from the drive shaft.

22. Unscrew the lever retaining ring.

23. Then remove the lever with washer and leash.

24. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the spring of the lever.

25. Now you can remove the lever from the liner, and separate the halves of the lever.

26. Remove the meshing gear retaining ring.

27. Next, disassemble the internal gear and remove the drive shaft support from the shaft.

28. Carefully remove the o-ring from the pore. Examine it carefully. A damaged, deformed, hardened ring will adversely affect the operation of the entire starter. It must be replaced.

29. The next step is to remove the insert from the support.

30. From the side of the collector, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder.

31. Using a screwdriver, pry off the brush clips.

32. Then remove these clips and their hold-down springs. Again, replace deformed or damaged parts, heavily compressed or bent, broken springs.

33. Pull the brushes out of the brush holder guides.

34. Uninsulated brushes must be removed.