Vaz 2107 DIY body repair

In detail: vaz 2107 do-it-yourself body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

All experienced owners of this car should know how to make a body repair of a VAZ 2107. At the very least, this will give considerable advantages, it will be possible to save good money on services at the service station and significantly extend the life of the car. Do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2107 involves several operations, and all of them are aimed at improving and modernizing the metal frame of the car.

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It will be useful to know that on the VAZ 2107, body repair covers such basic provisions as eliminating distortions and other deformations of the body, correcting deformations of body parts, welding repairs, replacing welded elements, and so on.

What can damage the body of the VAZ 2107 from? As a rule, up to 6 percent of the vehicle fleet in our country is involved in road accidents of various severity. If collisions of a vehicle are considered minor, then they do not imply any significant damage to body parts. But in major accidents, the damage to the body is so strong that the help or advice of a specialist who knows firsthand how to repair is required. In this case, experience plays an important role, as well as having the right equipment.

It will be interesting to know that extremely catastrophic deformations of the car body occur during a front impact, when the front end is experiencing powerful overloads. If you measure the strength of the energy received in a collision with an oncoming car or any obstacle, then it will always be colossal. The energy is partially absorbed by the car body, which deforms in a fraction of a second.

Video (click to play).

It is noteworthy that on the "seven" during a frontal impact, not only the front end suffers, but heavy loads are wavyly thrown onto all nearby elements and face parts of the frame. Of all parts of the body, the spars, which absorb the energy of the impact type, and door openings are the most affected by impacts (due to which the clearances are reduced).

In a word, in the process of deformation, there is a general skew of the skeleton, a change in the location of the checkpoint and internal combustion engine is possible.

It is impossible to leave the car in this state. It needs repair, but the nature of the deformation of the body of the "seven" in this case will depend not only on the force of the impact, but on the age of the car and the zone of impact concentration. The price of the work will also depend on this.

One way or another, the body of a used "seven" will not avoid aging. The supporting structure assumes all constant loads from the weight of the transported cargo and the mass of passengers. There is such a thing as dynamic loads arising from the movement of the vehicle. In addition, bulges and pits in the roadway, vibrations of a functioning engine and other components of the machine negatively affect the body.

Attention. The body is especially badly damaged in the process of fast movement on a bad road.

As a rule, the body of the "seven" is designed for several years of service, or more precisely, for 15-20 thousand km of run. Here are the kinds of changes that occur over time:

Individual body elements are deformed, warping of their surfaces is observed;
Doors sag over time;
The design of the openings is violated;
The integrity of the paintwork and anticorrosive is violated;
The spars are displaced, warping of the wings is observed, especially with frequent body overloads;
Cracks are observed at the joints of the body with the struts;
The weld nuts and bolts are not the same;
Welding parts are detached, resulting in knocks and squeaks;
Individual welding spots are also destroyed.

Note. Deformations of this nature are usually called operational. They are restored along the way.

The most dangerous companion of time is corrosion. It is capable of destroying a metal body when it is interconnected with open air. Corrosion is most severe in tight, inconspicuous parts. Such areas of the car are pockets, cavities, sinuses, etc.

Note. Without special protection, the machine steel sheet loses 0.2-0.3 mm in one year if it is outdoors.

The body of the "seven" has a lot of advantages over the frame of automobiles with a frame structure. First of all, this has to do with a 40-45 percent reduction in weight and lower production costs. The assembly itself does not imply any particular difficulties either: cold-rolled steel sheet is used, as a rule, 08KP with the possibility of drawing and good weldability, as well as paintability.

The parts that are most susceptible to corrosion (the underbody and its elements) are made from a special sheet of steel. So, in the VAZ 2107 of the last years of production, the number of galvanized parts in weight exceeds more than half of the entire body.

The most expensive part of any car is the body. Only for its manufacture it takes about half a ton of sheet metal (it is not cheap) and many other expensive materials.

As a result, special requirements are imposed on the body, which it must meet:

Have visibility in accordance with modern standards;
Have a shape that is optimal in terms of aerodynamics and functionality;
Seats must be securely fastened;
Changes to the front and rear of the body should be within normal limits in case of unexpected accidents;
Salon, engine and luggage compartments must have sufficient volume for a sedan;
Compliance with all standards of painting, manufacturing, etc .;
Finally, good maintainability.

First, the body is diagnosed for compliance with the general requirements:

The points of attachment of the motor, suspension and gearbox are examined. Base points - that's how they are called. If they are in order, or in other words, their location is in accordance with the factory standards, the handling and stability of the machine will be good;

Next, attention should be paid to the frame, which consists of individual components. It is to it (frame) that parts called plumage are attached.

A properly centered body is one on which all factory sizes and shapes are perfectly restored. In other words, the integrity of the body geometry is checked, diagnosed as follows:

The parameters of the clearances of the frame and hinged parts are checked;
The design of the window openings is checked for compliance;
The mutual arrangement of the factory points on the base is checked.

Probably, a rare car owner did not get into an accident during his practice, even if it was small and insignificant. For example, it touched the garage door at the exit or did not quite correctly estimate the distance to the nearest post when turning.
The consequences of such incidents are dents, deep scratches, rarely through holes. And today we will briefly tell you how to carry out body repair of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands.
At first glance, such a serious damage can be repaired in just 2-3 hours of leisurely work in the garage.

First, a little about the car. VAZ 2107 is a four-door "classic" in the body of a "sedan", produced from 1982 until the summer of 2012. The owners of old, Soviet cars were a little more fortunate - the bodies of the "sevens" were made of very strong steel, and it was more difficult to seriously damage them.
With proper care, the body practically does not corrode for a long time, only the thresholds and fenders could be considered a weak point, in the absence of protection.

Front and rear, the body is reliably protected by a solid metal bumper, and therefore almost all minor damage, as a rule, occurs on the side of the fenders or doors.

Useful advice! To carry out the work, you will need to have: a car putty with a hardener, a primer, 2-3 spatulas of different sizes and hardness, paint thinner, sandpaper of various grain sizes, and, of course, paint and varnish that match those with which your car was painted ... It's better to prepare everything in advance, you can look for some paint colors for a long time, and all this time you will have to ride with an ugly spot of putty.

Usually, all damage can be divided into several types:

Scratches... Probably the most common "disease" of bodywork, especially in big cities or among outdoor enthusiasts.
As a rule, they violate the exclusively aesthetic appearance, however deep scratches and paint chips can lead to rust, from which it is much more difficult to get rid of - it requires diligent cleaning with sandpaper, in especially neglected cases it can come to a partial replacement of the element.
Small dents... Usually - an unsuccessfully open door or a sloppy maneuver in the garage. The defect is also more unpleasant to the eye than somehow affects the general condition of the body.
Large dents... A minor accident, a part from a shelf accidentally dropped onto the hood, a blow from an aggressive pedestrian to whom your parked car blocked the road - all this ultimately gives a large dent. Usually, the paint in such places is chipped, and therefore it is necessary to eliminate defects of this kind as soon as possible.
Breakdowns, cracks. Often occur in areas of large dents.
Require immediate elimination, because violate the integrity of the case. They are especially dangerous in the lower part - they will get water and dirt, and if you do not close the hole in time, you will have to fork out much more.
Most often, in such cases, the damaged part of the body is changed.

Small dents and scratches are very easy to remove - just clean the intended place of work from dirt. If the dent is quite deep, we get to the back side of the body wall and, with the help of a mallet and a wooden block-gasket, we try to level the surface as much as possible with accurate and precise blows.
The remaining minor defects can be “refined” with a small light hammer. The hole can be carefully “bent” and putty, in rare cases it is required to weld a small piece of metal from the inside and then treat it with anti-corrosion compounds.
When the surface has become more or less even, proceed to the next stage. We carefully sand the damaged area with large emery.
The size of the area to be treated should be slightly larger than the damaged area. With a soft, lint-free cloth soaked in solvent, we carefully process the cleaned area, removing the remnants of paint, old putty and grease.
The first coarse layer of putty can now be applied. Even for those who are engaged in such a business for the first time, it will take only a couple of minutes and a few movements to understand how to do it correctly. The number of layers is made based on the size and depth of the dent.

Useful advice! The thickness of the layer should be within 0.5-2mm, deviations up or down will seriously reduce the final quality and durability of the "patch".

Each layer should dry naturally, and if you do not want to spend the whole day in the garage, it is worth very carefully leveling the dent at the initial stage. As a result of the work, the resulting "patch" should be about half a millimeter above the paint layer.
We are waiting for the last layer to dry and resolutely tackle the fine-grained sandpaper. Carefully, so as not to damage the paintwork, level out the fresh putty and slightly "deepen" the place of work.

This is what the primary result looks like.It remains only to paint in the desired color

It is very simple to assess the result - from a distance of a meter or two, the car body, except for the color, should not differ in any way from its appearance before being damaged. The main thing in the grinding process is not to overdo it, otherwise you will again have to climb behind the spatula.

There are also more difficult situations. For example, you might buy a car whose previous owner did not pay enough attention to following the manufacturer's recommendations for anti-corrosion coating and body care.
Simply put - you got a car with "rotten". Most often, as already mentioned, thresholds and fenders suffer, replacing them in a simple garage is a little more difficult and some specific skills will be required, however, at some stages of work, you can ask for help from an experienced neighbor or invite a familiar master - the price of the work will be 2- 3 times less than even the cheapest service.

Useful advice! For work you will need: a grinder with one or more, depending on the amount of work, discs, a drill and several drills for metal, one, or better two jacks in case of replacing thresholds, a semi-automatic welding machine, a couple of clamps and quite a lot of free time ... All required replacement components are best purchased or prepared in advance.

Significant body defects can be divided into two categories:

Corrosion damage. They usually arise due to inadequate car care, and the microclimate that prevails in the garage where the transport is parked can also affect.
A too humid environment accelerates the decay processes, and after a couple of years of operation, almost the entire body needs to be replaced. The bottom, fenders, sills, engine protection elements suffer the most, and to a slightly lesser extent - the racks and bumpers of the car.
Damage due to minor and medium traffic accidents, wrong work on straightening. They often end in corrosion, but there are times when the replaced part simply "falls off" - the welded seams of the sill or wing may weaken due to too active driving on uneven roads.
In such cases, the body is often overloaded. In addition, the option of destruction of the seams is not excluded precisely after any accident, even a mild one, because the impact energy is transmitted to the entire body and the weakened place may not withstand.

It looks like the body after the end of work

If the part to be replaced was a wing - we carry out the painting process according to the same scheme as shown above, with one exception - the putty will be applied in a relatively thin layer, usually 1-2 passes are enough.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this matter. The simple instructions given above will help the owner of the VAZ 2107 perform body repairs with his own hands, and the price of such a solution will ultimately be very low, especially in comparison with expensive services.
At the same time, quality suffers very rarely. If doubts arise and the recommendations given do not seem very detailed, you can always consult with the most versatile specialist - the Internet.
It is enough just to type in the search bar something like "VAZ 2107 body repair" - several videos with detailed instructions will definitely appear in the results, and the photos will also be useful.
Good luck with your repairs, or better yet - no repairs at all!

Inspection and straightening of parts and body elements in most cases is required in emergency rooms.

Attachment points for chassis assemblies
0 - baseline
1 - upper radiator mount
2 - fastening the steering gear housing and pendulum arm
3 - the axis of the clutch and brake pedals
4 - the center of the steering mechanism
5 - the center of the rear wheel
6 - mount the rear suspension shock absorbers
7 - rear attachment of the muffler
8 - front attachment of the muffler
9 - fastening the transverse rod of the rear suspension
10 - rear wheel axle
11 - fastening the upper longitudinal rods of the rear suspension
12 - fastening the lower longitudinal rods of the rear suspension
13 - the center of the front wheel
14 - attachment points of the cross member of the front suspension
15 - mount the anti-roll bar
16 - lower radiator mount
17 - axis
18 - upper radiator mount
19 - rear mount of the power unit
20 - fastening the driveshaft support
21 - mount the rear suspension shock absorbers

Installation for inspection and repair of bodies VAZ 2105 with a device for straightening
1 - installation frame
2 - body
3 - bracket for fastening the cross member of the front suspension
4 - an anti-roll bar mounting bracket
5 - straightening device with boom and hydraulic device

The control of the geometry of the attachment points of the chassis of the VAZ 2107, as well as the check of the control points of the floor of the body of the VAZ 2104 can be performed at the installation for the control and repair of bodies.

Straightening of deformed bodies can be carried out using straightening devices. The device is fixed to the installation frame from the side of the deformed part of the body.

Deformations are eliminated during installation:

- body floor;
- front and rear side members;
- mud flaps of the front fenders;
- front and center pillars;
- trunk floor;
- panels of the front and rear of the body;
- outer and inner rear wheel arches.

Damage to the body of the VAZ 2105 can be very different. Therefore, the repair rules in each individual case should be different, the most suitable for these damages.

In almost all cases of damage, it is necessary to remove some parts in order to detect damage, straighten and align the body. In cases of serious damage, remove all easily removable interior upholstery parts to facilitate the measurement, control and installation of hydraulic or screw jacks to eliminate distortions and deflections of the fret classic.

Reference linear dimensions of the openings of the wind and rear windows

By editing it is necessary to restore the original linear dimensions of the body frame. The diagonal dimensions of the window openings should be 1375 ± 4 mm for the wind window, and 1322 + 4–2 mm for the rear window. The distances between the flanges of the window openings along the axis should be equal for the wind window 537 + 3 mm, for the rear window - 509 + 3 mm.

The difference in the diagonal dimensions of the openings of the wind and rear windows, as well as the openings of the hood, trunk lid of one body should not exceed 2 mm.

Most often, when repairing the frame, it is necessary to replace the fenders, roof panels, front and rear. The methods of replacing and repairing these parts can be taken as a basis for repairing other body parts of the VAZ 2107. You also need to know the location of the welds.

Over time, the factory paintwork loses its original appearance due to the constant mechanical and chemical effects of various environmental factors. After the destruction of the paint, the same factors begin to directly affect the car body, quickly damaging it. The most destructive among them are considered moisture and chemically active substances that cause metal damage by corrosion. This is especially critical for cars, the body of which has weak anti-corrosion protection. These include the VAZ 2107 model, in which galvanizing is completely absent. In addition, the factory paintwork is considered to be of poor quality, as a result of which it quickly loses its integrity and flakes from the substrate.

For most modern cars, the most critical areas of the body from this point of view are places subject to mechanical or chemical stress, that is, areas where moisture and dirt gets from under the wing, or where water can accumulate. These include doors, namely their lower parts and edges, sections of the wing located near the wheels, sills, places under poorly adhering seals. However, given the lack of anti-corrosion treatment and the poor quality of the paintwork for the VAZ 2107 body, there are much more such places.

As is clear from this, after a short time of operation of such a car, and, possibly, immediately upon purchase, painting will be required. In addition, this procedure is carried out to impart the desired color to the vehicle. This is especially true if it is impossible to choose it when buying.

Do-it-yourself car painting allows you not only to change its color, but also to increase the anti-corrosion protection of the body.

Naturally, painting can be done to order in one of the many workshops. However, having carried out such work with your own hands, you can save a lot. And given that the VAZ 2107 belongs to the segment of the most inexpensive cars, this car does not require complex technologies, expensive equipment and materials. Therefore, among car owners, painting such cars with their own hands is very common.

First of all, it is necessary to remove the additional body elements presented for the VAZ 2107 in the form of bumpers, a radiator grill, lighting devices (headlights, side lights, repeaters of direction indicators on the front of the wing).After that, the body is washed with water. Then the exfoliated areas of the coating are removed with a spatula or brush. Next, wet grinding of the prepared surface is carried out with abrasive 55C 4-P or 68C 8-P. In the absence of mechanical damage to the coating and its small thickness, grind it to epoxy primer of factory paint. If the body has areas significantly affected by corrosion, or is painted with nitro enamel, it is necessary to clean it to metal.To remove the complex coating, SP-7 remover is used: it softens the material, after which it can be cleaned off.Then the body is cleaned by washing with water, blowing with compressed air and drying. Then the surface is degreased with BR-1 solvent gasoline or white spirit. The joints of the replaced parts and the welded seams are treated with Plastisol D-4A sealing mastic, and the excess material is removed with a cloth moistened with white spirit. Parts not to be painted are covered.It is recommended to use VL-023 or GF-073. The viscosity at 20 ° C should be 22-24, according to the readings of the VZ-4 viscometer. To achieve this value, the primer is diluted with xylene, and a spray gun is used to apply this material. After 5 minutes, EP-0228 soil is applied on top, diluted with MTT-75 catalyst or NF-1 desiccant in 3-4 or 6-8% of the soil mass, respectively. The shelf life of the material with the catalyst is 7 hours. To bring it to the target viscosity of 23-25, according to the indications of VZ-4, xylene or RE-11V solvent is used. After cooling, wet grinding is carried out with abrasive 55C 4-P. Next, the surface to be treated is washed, blown off and dried.In the case of body defects in the form of dents, they must first be filled with MS-OO-6 diluted with xylene to a convenient viscosity, up to 3 mm thick, or the damaged parts, which are most often presented in the form of a wing, must be replaced. After the treated areas of the body are dried, sanded with abrasive 55C 4-P, washed, blown off and dried again. The surfaces to be painted are degreased with white spirit.First you need to purchase enamel of the required color: materials such as ML-1195 or ML-197 are recommended. Before use, the enamel is diluted by 10% with DGU-70 catalyst. ML-197 can be diluted with 20% maleic anhydride in ethyl acetate. The material is brought to a viscosity of 20 with solvent R-197 and filtered through a mesh No. 015K. Image - Vaz 2107 DIY body repair

The enamel application begins with the interior surfaces to be painted, of which there are a lot of classic VAZ cars due to the lack of trunk lining, soundproofing of the hood and the presence of bare metal in the cabin. Also, these surfaces include the edges of the door. The named areas are treated in 2 layers with an intermediate exposure of 7-10 minutes.
External surfaces are painted in 3 layers with the same intermediate exposure.The coating is dried at 90 ° C for 1 hour and cooled naturally.

As you can see, painting with your own hands is not difficult and within the power of ordinary users.

One of the ways to make your Lada "seven" car unique and striking is airbrushing on a VAZ 2107 car. Body painting using innovative technologies, toning, color renewal, structural changes to the body iron will help to change the car's appearance. The car interior can also be easily made more comfortable and individual. Many types of tuning can be done by hand, which we will tell you about.

VAZ 2107 is famous for its body, the simple geometry of which still attracts motorists today. This car model is a luxury version of the VAZ 2105 and was produced from 1982 to 2012 in various modifications and trim levels, including a pickup body. The body of the car is a four-door sedan with rear wheel drive. The frame has steel parts joined by non-contact welding.

Those parts on which a large load is distributed are additionally strengthened by arc welding. Do-it-yourself body repair VAZ 2107 includes how many operations: modernization of the metal frame of the car, replacement of one or another spare part, painting, welding, etc. Over time, in the process of dynamic loads, the body iron of the "seven" undergoes the following changes:

some parts are deformed;
doors begin to sag;
the structure of the openings is broken;
the integrity of the paintwork is destroyed;
cracks appear at the joints of the body with the struts;
welding points are destroyed, structural elements are disconnected;
corrosion appears.

Replacing parts is not difficult, since spare parts for the "seven" are easy to find. Removable body hardware, such as the hood, front fenders, trunk lid, doors, etc., is much easier to repair with your own hands, since for this you need to unscrew the necessary parts with a key and exchange for other parts.Fixed body iron: rear fenders, inner door panels, grille and other welding elements are much more difficult to repair with your own hands. They must be carefully cut without damaging the structures to which they are welded.To install new parts with your own hands, you will need skills in working with a welding machine.Until now, a spacious comfortable version of a car based on a VAZ 2107 VIS 2345 pickup truck is widely used. This subcompact two-seater car, which has a pickup body type, was produced in different colors. The car provides tremendous opportunities for transporting a large number of things. The pickup is equipped with an injection engine, its speed reaches 110 km / h.Many car owners have in their garages VAZ 2107, which have a sedan or a pickup body type, and despite the fact that these models have been discontinued, it is easy to find parts, spare parts, a hood and other body hardware for them on sale. If the body of your car's pickup truck is in emergency condition, then you can order a new one in the following configurations:

"Assembled": new body, including electrical appliances, wiring, bumpers, glass;

“In metal”: new body with anti-corrosion treatment in the desired color.

VAZ has developed a variety of colors for the "seven", each of which has a specific name. For example, red - "viburnum", marsh - "Sochi", yellow - "melon". There is one more type of configuration: you can order a new pickup body of any color.Painting "seven", regardless of what type of body it has, is a simple process, which many car owners carry out with their own hands. This requires a compressor, spray gun. Any painting of a car body begins with cleaning and degreasing the surface. Image - Vaz 2107 DIY body repair

The foci of corrosion are removed with special compounds or you can use a rust primer. After applying the putty, the primer, the final stage follows - painting.If it is necessary to restore the plastic element of the car body, then for this it is necessary to use special plastic compounds.

To get more access to the engine compartment, many car owners mount an alligator on the hood. It's easy enough to do it yourself. To do this, you need the following parts:

loops;
fasteners (bolts M8);
locks;
two pieces of corners 50x30 with a thickness of 1.5 mm.

To mount a part such as an alligator hood, you should follow these steps in sequence.

In the corners, make 2-3 holes for the fasteners, which will hold the hinges.
Weld the bolts on the inside to avoid twisting.
Attach the corners to the body, placing the hooks symmetrically.
Put the new hood in place, marking the areas for the holes.
The place where the hinges are attached, for reliability, it is better to reinforce with metal plates.
Install the locks and the release cable. To install locks in a standard panel, make 2 holes, reinforcing the areas around with metal plates. Cut a hole for the spring retaining fasteners.

The system works in this way: from the passenger compartment, pull the lever towards you, the cable will entail the lock spring, and its cylinder will open the hood. If gaps have formed, use rubber seals.To make their car stand out from the faceless mass, many owners resort to this type of tuning as airbrushing. This is a special technology of drawing a pattern on any type of body of the "seven" using special equipment - an airbrush. With the help of this device, experienced craftsmen transfer various images or whole paintings to the surface of the car body.Among the hinged elements of the car, on which airbrushing is most often applied, such parts are: hood, doors, trunk lid, bumpers. Choosing options for the image, you can embody any of your fantasies in the sketch of the drawing (various elements, images of animals, flowers, etc.). Airbrushing is performed in specialized salons.This "pleasure" is not cheap. Therefore, if you have some skills in working with an airbrush, then you can make a simple stencil image with your own hands. Prepare paints of the required color; for beginners, universal paints are better suited. Stencils of drawings can be chosen independently or ordered in the salon.

Prepare the surface of the car: clean it from dust, dirt, degrease.

Cover with foil those parts of the body surface that will not be airbrushed.

Secure the stencil and, using the airbrush, start applying layers. Painting should take place smoothly, without sudden movements, starting from the main layer, gradually displaying the entire drawing. After one color has dried, you can start applying the next one.

The airbrush should be held at a 90 degree angle to the surface.

Cover the finished image with varnish and polish.

It is important to remember that light colors are applied first, as dark ones will be difficult to paint over.A more modern look will also be given by toning. Today there are many technologies for dimming car windows. The most common method is removable tinting. It can be on a rigid basis, silicone, gel, mesh, hybrid. Each of these types has its own advantages and disadvantages.When choosing a shade so as not to jeopardize traffic safety, remember that the film cannot be cloudy. Removable tinting must have a light transmission that complies with the technical safety regulations.The salon of the legend of the domestic auto industry - Lada "seven" does not meet modern safety and comfort requirements. Therefore, many owners of the VAZ 2107 prefer to modify the car interior by contacting a car service, or do it yourself.Noise isolation "seven" does not provide sound absorption well enough. To correct this defect, remove the door trim, seats, floor covering. Apply insulating compound to the underside of the vehicle.Lay 10 cm thick polyethylene foam on top, securing it with construction glue.Ready-made noise insulation kits are sold for the hood and trunk. Degrease the surface, lay the pieces of vibration-absorbing material using a construction hair dryer. Next is the included sound absorber, which will delay sounds from under the hood. At the same time, the car interior will gain additional comfort.