Vaz 2107 DIY repair carburetor

The VAZ 2107 sedan has been out of production for several years. However, this circumstance did not reduce its popularity among motorists. Currently, there are still many cars of this family traveling on the roads of many CIS countries. A large number of owners are engaged in the repair and maintenance of the "seven" on their own, so they will be interested in this article.

The principle of operation of internal combustion engines is based on the combustion of fuel, which is used as gasoline for carburetor engines. The engine will not work if gasoline is simply poured into the combustion zone. Its operation is possible only when the fuel mixture enters the combustion chamber, which is formed in a ratio of 15: 1 parts of air and gasoline. The carburetor just forms the composition of the fuel mixture.

New cars today are no longer produced with carburetors in the power system; injectors have replaced them, but the demand among motorists has remained. The production of these devices continues in many countries of the world, including the Russian Federation. During operation, these devices wear out, their adjustments are lost, so they need maintenance, adjustments, repairs. Before starting a conversation about this, you should consider the device of these devices.

There are several types of carburetors, but two of them are most widespread, these are:

The most widespread are models with a float chamber, but although rare, there are products of the bubbling type. In different periods of production of the VAZ 2107, devices of different brands were installed, these could be Solex or Ozone carburetors. Let's try to understand the principle of their work.

The device of these devices is approximately the same, there are only minor differences. The design uses the following nodes:

• Float chamber for gasoline;
• Throttle valves;
• Air intake damper;
• Chambers for mixing fuel with air;
• Idle valve;
• Econostat;
• Compartment for removal of crankcase gases;
• Accelerating pump;
• Jets for air and fuel supply;
• Tubes for obtaining a fuel emulsion.

Also in the device of this device there are several systems, this is a system for starting the engine with its subsequent warming up, a system that controls idle. System for monitoring the fuel level in the float chamber, accelerator pump assembly. Also, the operation of this device is impossible without a mixing chamber and an econostat.

When the pistons move in the combustion chamber, a vacuum is created, which sucks fuel from the float chamber. Gasoline is fed through the channels to the mixing chamber where it is mixed with air. The throughput of the nozzles is selected in such a way that the ratio of the amount of incoming air to the mass of gasoline is approximately 15: 1. This ensures maximum efficiency in the use of the combustion engine.

For various reasons, the factory settings of the carburetor may be violated, which will lead to a loss of the power indicator of the power unit, an increase in fuel consumption. In this case, many motorists turn to the specialists of automobile centers for help in eliminating the problems that have arisen. If desired, this work can be easily done by yourself.

Before starting work, it is advisable to familiarize yourself in more detail with the type of carburetor used on your car.This must be done in order to select the correct repair kit for the device, if necessary. On the body of the middle part of the carburetor there is an attached plate indicating its number, it is needed for the correct selection of spare parts. Adjustments can be made directly on the power unit or after dismantling.

During the operation of the car, various layers of dust, dirt, engine oil accumulate on the carburetor body, so it should be thoroughly cleaned. This procedure will be interfered with by the air filter housing, which will need to be removed. First of all, unscrew the three nuts on the cover of the air filter housing with a 10 wrench. They are removed together with the washers, after which you can remove the cover along with the air filter. The body itself is held in place by four 8-nut wrench nuts.

When the nuts are unscrewed, the housing together with the crankcase gas discharge hoses are removed. The carburetor can be cleaned without removing it from the engine. To do this, you can use chemical agents for cleaning the engine, kerosene, and other detergents. The process will be much faster if the engine is hot. Detergents are usually supplied as aerosols, making them easier to apply to contaminated areas. If kerosene is used, it is poured into a plastic bottle with a small hole in the cork.

Do not use solvents for cleaning, they can damage plastic or technical rubber parts.

The carburetor is adjusted in several stages:

1. Checking the performance of the air damper;
2. Measurement of the fuel level in the float chamber;
3. Checking the performance of the accelerating pump;
4. Cleaning of fuel and air jets;
5. Regulation of engine idle speed.

This is not to say that these are all types of adjustments, there may be others, it depends on the type of carburetor, its service life, and other reasons.

It's easy to do it yourself. Pull the choke handle towards you until it stops and see what state the choke is in. It should completely cover the diffuser of the primary chamber of the carburetor without gaps. Scroll the engine crankshaft for a few seconds with the starter, if flashes occur in the cylinders, it should deflect and open the air mixture.

Problems with the damper can arise due to improper installation of its drive cable, malfunction of the telescopic rod, oily deposits on the walls of the diffuser.

To perform this operation, you need to remove the top cover of the device. There are two ways to check the level, this is by measuring the distance from the float to the cover, or by using a caliper of the fuel level in the carburetor's float chamber.

We measure the distance from the float to the lid.

The distance from the float to the cover should be within 6-7 mm, while the needle valve should shut off the fuel flow. This can be easily verified by blowing into the nozzle in the top cover. This distance is set by bending the tongue on the float. If the channel does not close, the needle valve must be replaced. The depth gauge measures the fuel level immediately after stopping the engine, it should be at a level equal to about 17 mm. It is also installed by bending the float tab.

This check is carried out with fuel in the carburetor. To do this, you need to make several presses of the gas pedal and at the same time observe the "beak" in the diffuser of the secondary chamber. A stream of gasoline should splash out of it.

If the jet does not appear, the spray should be turned out, as shown in the photo, then blown out. If you press the gas pedal again with the spray gun removed, fuel should appear in its channel. Remove the atomizer carefully so as not to lose the copper gasket.The lack of gasoline in the sprayer channel may be due to a violation of the tightness of the pump diaphragm.

To check it, unscrew the four screws on the cover with a Phillips screwdriver and remove it from the case. Also, be careful not to lose the spring. The diaphragm should not be repaired, it is simply replaced with a new part.

In the photo, arrows show the screws securing the accelerator pump cover.

Using poor quality gasoline can clog the fuel and air jets.

Sometimes when the carburetor top cover is removed, you can see sediment in the float chamber. It can easily get into fuel lines and block the access of gasoline. Using a tire inflator or compressor, they can be blown out. Nozzle spray is available commercially. A tube from a can of aerosol is inserted one by one into the nozzles and washed. When checking the nozzles in the float chamber, they must not be interchanged, this will lead to increased fuel consumption.

If this does not help or there is no aerosol for cleaning the carburetor, the nozzles are turned out of the installation nests for flushing. It is best to use solvents 646 or 647 as flushing liquid. If you dip the nozzles in them for a while, they dissolve all deposits in the holes of these parts. The carburetor emulsion tubes are subjected to the same procedure. You can get them with the handle of a thin file or other rod of a suitable diameter.

The air jets of the primary and secondary chambers are subjected to the cleaning procedure. To do this, use a flat-blade screwdriver on the sides to unscrew the hollow bronze screws. Air jets are inserted into them. They are easily removed from their seats for purging or flushing. They usually have the same calibrated dimensions, so it is impossible to confuse them.

The photo shows one of the two air-jet propellers.

Do not use rags to clean the jets and other carburetor parts. The remaining fluff can cause problems in the future during the operation of the machine.

Most drivers complete the stage of adjustment work with the carburetor with this operation. For this, at the bottom of this device there are two screws that regulate the amount and quality of the fuel mixture. As a rule, the manufacturer makes the device settings, after which the protective sleeves are pressed onto these screws. After installing them, the screw can be turned only slightly. These bushings must be removed to make adjustments. When performing adjustment work at the service station at the end of the work, such bushings are re-installed. There are two screws to adjust the idle speed.

In the photo, a screw for the quality of the fuel mixture is screwed in with a screwdriver, and a screw for the amount of the mixture is visible next to the pipes.

Let us consider in more detail the procedure for setting the required engine idle speed. This operation is performed as follows:

1. With a screw that regulates the amount of the mixture, set the tachometer to about 850 - 900 rpm;
2. By rotating the quality screw, the maximum engine speed is achieved;
3. By turning the screw, the amount of the mixture is reduced to 950 - 1035 rpm;
4. Such manipulations with the screws are carried out several times until, when the quality screw rotates, only a decrease in the engine speed will occur;
5. The quality screw is used to achieve the rated speed;
6. The engine is being checked at idle speed, when the gas pedal is pressed sharply. The operation of the power unit must be smooth, without tripping, failures.

It may happen that by turning the screws it is not possible to change the engine speed. This could be due to excessive diffuser to throttle clearance. This gap is adjusted with the screw located next to the fuel mixture quality screw.

A mesh filter is installed in the fuel pipe of the carburetor to clean the incoming gasoline, which should be washed periodically. Some owners install an additional filter before the gas pump, or between the pump and the carburetor.

Sometimes the idle speed "floats", this can be caused by the passage of "excess" air through the gasket in the forced idle economizer, which needs to be replaced. You can use the car for some time if you insert a spring of a suitable diameter between the valve cone and the valve body, and then set the idle speed.

"Loss" of idle speed can occur after failure of the solenoid valve. Often this can happen after clogging of the nozzle of the tip of this valve, after cleaning it, the operability is restored.

I didn't manage to adjust the idle speed anyway. I drove the car to the workshop, it turned out that I knew nothing about the bushings at all) but now there are such workshops that, in principle, do not know how to do this ..

VAZ 2106 and 2107 are classics of the domestic auto industry. But what lover of dashing driving would not like to make his car more powerful and at the same time keep the amount of fuel consumed? Experienced mechanics know that for this it is only necessary to tidy up the car's carburetor and carry out timely repairs.

For any VAZ car, from 2101 to 2107, only certain carburetor models are suitable.

Carburetors DAAZ 2101, 2103, 2106. They were produced at the Dmitrov Avtoagregatny Plant, which bought a license from the Italian company Weber, therefore these carburetors can be indicated under both names. The devices did not differ in the complexity of the design, but they could please their owners with a fast acceleration of the car and good speed. One of the biggest problems in installing these models is that they are virtually unavailable on the market.

In addition to speed and simplicity, Weber carburetors also provided incredibly fast fuel consumption - these "monsters" ate 10-14 liters per 100 km. fuel.

More technologically advanced models, which were already installed in VAZ 2105 and 2107 cars, were also produced at the Dmitrov Avtoagregatny Plant. However, they were not only more advanced and improved, but also more environmentally friendly. It is for this that they received the name "Ozone". This carburetor made it possible to reduce fuel consumption to 7-10 liters. per 100 km, while maintaining the dynamic characteristics of their predecessors. The downside of the device was the complexity of its assembly and constant contamination in one of the chambers, which led to the fact that the acceleration of the car deteriorated noticeably, the speed decreased and the engine began to junk.

A little later, DAAZ 21053 carburetors appeared. They were produced under the license of the French company Solex, hence the name of the models. These carburetors were not much like the previous DAAZ models. An updated design with a fuel return system made it possible to store 400-500 ml of fuel per 100 km. These carburettors were distinguished by good power with low gas mileage. The disadvantage of the device was the narrow fuel and air channels, which very often became clogged.

Solex carburettors came in many variations with various auxiliary systems. In the CIS, the option with an electric idle valve has become the most popular.

Often, inquisitive motorists resorted to independent carburetor replacements. One suitable model turned out to be the Solex 21073, famous for its wide jets and channels. Such a carburetor increased the power of the car, but at the same time raised the fuel consumption - 9-12 liters. for 100 km.

The second non-standard carburetor, which, with some modifications, fits the VAZ 2106 and 2107 models, is the Solex 21083.After expanding the diffusers and installing the jets, this device allows you to significantly increase the dynamics of the car without much fuel consumption. However, the process of upgrading the carburetor is very complicated and time consuming.

In order to understand the state of the carburetor in the car, it is enough to carry out a small diagnosis.

Signs of a defective carburetor:

• the car began to consume more gasoline than it previously needed;
• the engine starts to overheat quickly;
• black smoke comes out of the muffler and pops, "sneezing" and "shooting" are heard. These malfunctions appear when the high-voltage wires are incorrectly connected, late ignition, improper operation of the distributor and the ignition system switch, after an unsuccessful repair of the timing belt, with an unsuitable fuel mixture;
• the car began to noticeably lose power when driving;
• the car accelerates much slower;
• failures occur when, when you press the gas pedal, the car does not react instantly, but acceleration occurs gradually and with a delay;
• there are jerks - frequent and short dips;
• swinging occurs - several dips with a small interval.

It is important to remember that before starting to repair the carburetor, you should diagnose the entire engine power system and its technical condition.

Typical carburetor malfunctions:

1. There is no fuel in the float chamber or the fuel mixture is too rich / lean. In this case, the car engine does not start at all or starts, but immediately stalls.
2. Clogged idle channels or nozzles.
3. The solenoid valve is intermittent.
4. Malfunctions have appeared in the control unit or among the elements of the forced idle economizer (EPHH).
5. It starts to malfunction or the rubber O-ring has melted.
6. Fuel "overflows", the level in the float chamber does not hold. The reason is the depressurization of the fuel valve.

If suddenly your carburetor becomes unusable, do not throw it away. Repair of this important "organ" of the car is the fastest possible replacement of faulty parts. In order to determine which parts need to be replaced, you should disassemble, clean the carburetor and carefully inspect the constituent mechanisms.

The carburetor is removed if a malfunction is found in it, but there is no way to do this by partial disassembly. The carburetor is also removed for replacement, adjustment and cleaning.

It is removed as follows:

1. To begin with, all kinds of attachments and cables for the damper drive are removed.
2. The air filter housing is removed from the studs. To do this, unscrew all the nuts on which it is attached to the carburetor. The clamping nut is pushed back and the air damper cable sheath is pulled out of the mounting bracket.
3. The outer surface of the parts is cleaned from contamination.
4. The air damper drive cable is loosened and the fuel supply and crankcase gas discharge hoses are removed.
5. The hose between the economizer and the pneumatic valve and the hose of the vacuum ignition distributor are disconnected.
6. Then the nuts are unscrewed, with which the carburetor is attached to the intake manifold.
7. The carburetor body is removed and the intake manifold opening is plugged with a clean rag to avoid clogging.

Remember to check the integrity of the gasket that is between the carburetor and the intake manifold. Replace it if necessary.

Before you start cleaning the carburetor, you need to carefully prepare: buy a special aerosol cleaner from a car dealer, arm yourself with smooth dry rags, a tire inflation pump, remove the carburetor and disassemble it.

Nozzles - fuel and gas supply channels - are cleaned with compressed air or a liquid pressure cleaner. Mechanical cleaning with any fluffy or metallic objects is prohibited.

When cleaning the nozzles with compressed air (you can use a tire pump for this), the idle nozzle body, the main dosing system (air and fuel), then the valves and channels of the pump sprayer are blown through.

In case of severe contamination, the jets are placed in acetone so that the deposits soften or completely dissolve. Then they should be purged.

Probably, more than one VAZ 2107 driver was faced with such a nuisance as carburetor repair. Despite the fact that models with this type of engine power supply have not been produced for a long time, many motorists still remain loyal to their "carburetor" cars. That is why the problem of disassembling it with your own hands remains relevant to this day.

The carburetor is an irreplaceable part of the VAZ 2107 car. It helps it to start the engine by mixing gasoline and air, controlling their quantity. Thus, there is a control over the fuel content in this mixture, which is called the air-fuel mixture.

The main elements of the carburetor are:

• fuel tank or float chamber;
• float with a special needle shut-off valve;
• spray;
• main body part (mixing chamber);
• narrowing of the air throat of the carburetor - diffuser;
• air and throttle valves;
• fuel and air channels with jet holes.

Why the carburetor broke in your VAZ 2107 car is impossible to determine at a glance. This mechanism is so complex that only with a detailed examination can you understand the cause of the breakdown in order to make repairs. Let's take a look at the most common problems.

• leaky connection of the carburetor with the exhaust pipe;
• insufficient amount of fuel in the float chamber;
• dirty jets and channels;
• the float is out of order.

All this you can easily fix if you do the repair yourself, without the help of professionals.

In order for the engine of your VAZ 2107 to work again like new, it is necessary to repair the carburetor, that is, to disassemble it.

Remove the air filter first. Now nothing gets in the way in order to wipe the carburetor. Do this with a damp cloth, and if it is heavily soiled, use a special engine cleaner. Loosen the choke cable holder a few turns.

Loosen the cable sheath bolt, which can now be easily removed.

Remove the crankcase exhaust hose.

Unscrew the fuel hose and carefully remove it from the fitting. Be sure to plug the hole in the fuel hose. This can be done with an ordinary bolt.

Disconnect the ignition timing vacuum regulator hose.

Disconnect the enrichment economizer from the air valve.

Remove the microswitch from the terminals.

Use a screwdriver to squeeze the tip from the drive rod, which has a throttle valve.

The next step is to remove the return spring of this damper.

Remove the carburetor from the intake manifold pipe.

Unscrew the remaining mount and remove the carburetor.

You should now pay attention to the condition of the gasket. Replace if worn or damaged.

By pulling out the carburetor body, you can completely disassemble it. Since we have already removed the return spring, unscrew the three-arm lever.

Hold its mount while twisting the recoil spring mount bracket.

Now you can remove the lever, its spring and rod. Remove the throttle bodies from the throttle bodies.

The fuel nozzle body must also be unscrewed.

Wash these parts by removing the rubber element from the body. Replace this part if necessary.

In the VAZ 2107 pump (accelerator), unscrew the bolt. Remove the cover complete with diaphragm and spring from the pump.

Wash all parts in acetone solution.

Use a ruler with your hand against the side of the body to check for curvature.

If you find a slight curvature, insert drills into the adapter tubes before fixing it. They must enter the holes with effort, that is, be of a smaller diameter than this hole. Now remove these tubes with regular pliers.

For minor surface distortion, you can use a vise to correct it. Jaws should be put in a vice, under which it is recommended to place plywood sheets. In case of severe deformation, it is recommended to carefully repair the case - tap the case with a carpenter's hammer. Now level the surface with a wide file. In order not to cut too much, control your actions with a ruler - periodically apply it to the body. Now rinse the body in acetone and you can assemble the VAZ 2107 carburetor in the reverse order.

Having done the repair of such a complex mechanism with your own hands, now you are not afraid of any breakdowns in your car.

This article is part of a 9-lesson series on 7 carburetors. For all nine lessons, follow the link: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/718/chto-takoe/karbyurator.html

Most of the VAZ-2107 cars that came off the assembly line were equipped with a carburetor power system, although injection versions were produced for export. "Sevens" with an injector appeared on the domestic market only in the last years of production. Therefore, most of the VAZ-2107 with a carburetor power system, which is already outdated.

But outdated, does not mean bad, according to some criteria, the carburetor "bypasses" the injector. The positive qualities include the minimum amount of electronics, which affects the reliability of the power supply system, high maintainability, unpretentiousness to the quality of gasoline.

But in order to maintain the VAZ-2107 power system in a working condition, some of its nodes require periodic maintenance. This applies primarily to the carburetor.
The VAZ-2107 uses the Ozone carburetor, unlike, for example, the Solex VAZ-2109 carburetor. The Ozone carburetor is distinguished by a relatively simple design and unpretentiousness, which allows the unit to be serviced on its own, without resorting to the services of a service station.
But we note that on the VAZ-2107 of various years of production, which were equipped with a carburetor power system, modifications of "Ozone" were used, although the difference between them is insignificant and it boils down to the use of auxiliary units of different design, but the general design is the same.

Dust, dirt and foreign particles that get inside the carburetor with fuel and air settle on the inner walls of the channels, of which there are many in the assembly structure, which leads to malfunctioning. The design of the carburetor includes a number of units, the components of which wear out and become damaged over time, which affects its performance.
Signs indicating a defective carburetor:

• Difficult starting of the motor;
• Drop in the dynamics of acceleration;
• Jerks, dips during acceleration;
• Unstable idle speed;
• Unauthorized stop of the motor;

These signs are also given by other engine systems (the same ignition system), but if the carburetor has not been serviced for a long time, then the reason for the poor performance of the engine lies in this unit.

Maintenance of Ozone carburetors is partial and complete. The first is to flush the assembly without dismantling it from the engine. It is carried out using special cleaning agents such as "Carb Cleaner". We use the product according to the instructions and continue to operate the car. But the effect of partial maintenance is short-lived and does not always help. Ultimately, you will have to perform a full service.

Full tuning of Ozone carburetors comes down to a complete disassembly of the unit, cleaning the channels, checking the performance of hinged units, troubleshooting parts, assembling using spare parts and subsequent adjustment.

To carry out maintenance work, you will need:

• A set of standard keys;
• Screwdrivers;
• Pliers;
• Rags;
• Means for washing the carburetor ("Carb Cleaner" or similar);

You will also need a carburetor repair kit. Various types of repair kits are available, some of which include only gaskets, while others include all parts (jets, screws, emulsion tubes, etc.). It is better to purchase a complete set.

Since the carburetor consists of many small parts, its disassembly into its component parts, washing and troubleshooting and adjustment is carried out in stages so as not to lose sight of anything.

For full service, it is necessary to dismantle the unit from the car. This is done by dismantling the air filter housing, disconnecting the nozzles, pipes, cables and wire of the solenoid valve from the assembly. After that, it remains only to unscrew the 4 nuts securing the carburetor to the intake manifold and remove the assembly.

The Ozone carburetor includes three parts. Work with each of them is better carried out in turn: they removed one - disassembled, cleaned, assembled and move on to the next component.

We start with the lid. Service includes the following stages:

1. We unscrew the screws securing the cover.
2. Disconnect the telescopic air damper control drive.
3. We remove the cover from the body together with the starting device and the float.
4. We unscrew the screws securing the starting device and disconnect the rod from the damper axle lever.
5. We take out the axis of the float and remove the float together with the shut-off needle.
6. We unscrew the plug of the filter installed on the fuel supply connection (if the plug cannot be unscrewed, apply a few gentle blows on it with a key). We remove the filter element (mesh).
7. Remove the gasket.
8. We wash the cover from dirt. We purge the channels in it using a cleaning agent (if the agent is not at hand, it can be purged with compressed air).
9. We rinse and blow through the filter mesh. We put it in place and tighten the cork.
10. We examine the condition of the locking needle (rubber cuff on it). We install the float with the needle in place.
11. We check the position of the float (affects the level in the float chamber). This is done like this - we turn the lid vertically (so that the shut-off needle closes the feed channel) and measure the distance from the float in the lid surface. The distance is 6.5 mm, with this indicator the level is correct. If it does not converge, adjust and adjust the position of the float by bending the tongue.
12. We check the tightness of the shut-off needle. To do this, turn the cover over with a float up and create a vacuum in the inlet fitting with our mouth (we draw air from the fitting). If the shut-off needle "does not hold", we replace it.
13. Using a vacuum, we check the integrity of the diaphragm of the starting device (when creating a vacuum, the rod of the device must move). If necessary, we repair the starting device using a new membrane from the repair kit.
14. We install the starting device on the carburetor cover (replacing the sealing lip of the device), connect the rods and the telescopic drive.

Then we put a new gasket and put the cover aside.

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