Measuring the distances between the test points of the body is the most common way to check the condition of the car. Having completed the measurements, it is required to verify them with the passport data.
Diagonal of the front door opening from the edge of the lower sill to the middle of the roof
Diagonal of the front doorway from the lowest point of the windshield to the middle of the lower sill
Diagonal of the rear door opening from the connection point of the lower sill with the B-pillar to the roof
Body repair skills may be required "due to" various accidents or corrosion.
In this video we will learn how to overhaul the body of a VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 (SAMARA). That is, let's start with disassembling the body, after that correct preparation to painting. How to properly cut rusty spots and weld new metal. We will learn how to completely alter, then assemble the salon.
Obviously, this manual is very useful and will allow you to get a visual idea of how to repair the body of 2109.
Today, do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 body repair is carried out by many owners of this car. And in general, a large part of the fans of the domestic auto industry is faced with body problems. The cost of repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 in car services leaves much to be desired, so you have to do some types of work yourself.
In reality, there is nothing complicated in replacing individual elements of the body of the "nine". If you have the right tools at hand, then it will not be particularly difficult to replace, for example, a rotten arch or the bottom of a car, a threshold or a bumper. From the article you will learn how to do this without wasting a lot of time and effort.
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Before proceeding to the direct instructions for repairing the body of the VAZ 2109, I would like to focus on choosing the right tools. Every professional, master of his craft will confirm that a good tool is half of the successful completion of any repair operation.
So, the list of necessary tools for body repair of the "nine" is quite wide, since the work is by no means simple and will require a considerable number of specific devices:
Note. It is impossible even to put a jack, since the section provided by the manufacturer for it (the jack) comes into disrepair. To work in this place, the car can be lifted using the engine beam instead of the stop.
In general, corrosion is the number one problem for domestic cars. It seems that the level of anti-corrosion protection on them is carried out well, but rust eats everything over time, and there is no getting away from it.
Note. It is imperative to restore the geometry of the body, which takes a lot of time. You will need a slipway machine on which you will have to fix the car. There are special clamps on the slipway that ensure reliable fixation of the machine. You can read more about the control points of the "nine" below.
It is advisable to cover the arches with resin mixed with used oil. This is an excellent anti-rye remedy, but you can't put it on the bottom for obvious reasons.
Do-it-yourself restoration of the correction of the original state of the body and parts involves, as a rule, simple painting and removal of dents. It is not complete without polishing, which protects the surface well from corrosion.
As for the complete restoration of a body that has been involved in an accident, the service of professionals is already required. Only in a car service can the body be properly restored, according to the basic checkpoints. Here, the appropriate equipment is available, and the specific technology of conducting is well known to the masters.
In any case, before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to check the condition of the body. The most famous method of verification involves measuring the distances between control points and then reconciling them with passport indicators.
VIDEO Often the rear and front bumpers on the "nine" are removed to carry out their repair or to restore other parts of the body. You will still have to learn how to remove them correctly and without problems, whatever one may say, if the owner intends to carry out body repairs on his own.
So, in order to remove the rear bumper:
On the side, we find the nuts that fix the bumper to the body, and turn them off (as a rule, there are 2 fasteners on each side);
We find the nuts of the front bumper attachment and now unscrew them (it is recommended to hold the bumper so that it does not fall).
The removal of the front bumper is carried out in a similar way, only here it is also necessary to remove the plastic wheel arch liners.
The preferred color of the bumpers on the "nine" is a perennial topic for discussions between lovers of this car model. Many are on the side of the classic black color, although there are those who believe that the color of the bumper should be in harmony with the color of the car.
Whatever it was, painting and decorative repairs are not difficult to carry out. The bumpers will need to be dismantled, thoroughly inspected for deformations. If there are any, then the elements will have to be aligned, and the rest of the parts will have to be cleaned of old paint and rust.
Attention. If the bumper is plastic, then its defects can be repaired with putty.
Plastic bumpers are excellently cleaned of rust and paint using sandpaper with a grain size of 200-400. If there are holes in the bumper, they can be covered with pieces of plastic removed from old bumpers or other plastic parts. As you know, plastic is well glued to each other with a soldering iron with a power of 40-60 watts.
In general, parts of a damaged plastic bumper can be fastened in 4 ways.
By melting the plastic of the bumper itself or additional linings. In this case, the width of the welded seam can be left at 1.5 cm, and as for the depth of the solder, it should depend on the thickness of the bumper.
By joining with parallel seams. In this case, ordinary wire, and nails with the caps removed, and other improvised means will help. You just need to solder these peculiar fasteners from the back of the bumper.
A more complex option involves the use of flexible wire, better than copper. It is already soldered in the same way as in method 3, only in a zigzag, a snake from the inside. If this method is not possible on the back of the bumper, the snake can also be made from the front.
The grille will connect the bumper pieces to each other more firmly than anyone else. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a mesh (a piece of a decorative radiator grill will do).
If you could not find similar pieces of plastic, then you can use other materials:
The same grille, bent over the shape of the bumper. After the mesh is soldered into the bumper, you need to take some plastic, similar in elasticity to the bumper material, and melt it, put it on the mesh. The borders of the standard plastic must be carefully combined with the edges of the superimposed material. After the plastic has hardened, it is necessary to smooth and sand everything;
You can build up the missing part of the plastic with putty. Only it will need to be mixed with "epoxy". Be sure to carry out grinding at the final stage;
The putty is also mixed with fiberglass.
The fixation of the front fenders on the "nine" is done quite successfully, if we mean the ease of removal. Only a few bolts hold them in place. Therefore, no welding is required to dismantle them, but it is enough just to arm yourself with a pair of good curly screwdrivers and an 8-dimensional head with an extension.
Lockers that are held on self-tapping screws are removed;
The wing bolt is unscrewed, holding the body element from below at the threshold;
Two more bolts hold the fender from the inside;
You will have to completely dismantle the bumper or unscrew its side fasteners, and then take it aside to gain access to another bolt that secures the wing;
Finally, it remains to remove a few bolts securing the wing from above.
With a wing, if it is deformed, it is also not customary to tinker. You can easily replace it with a new one, especially since it is inexpensive - 1200 rubles. If you use auto-parsing, then the part can be bought even at half the price.
If, nevertheless, the wing has received small deformations or traces of rust are observed on it, then it is easy to repair the part. Again, it can be removed and then refined at a garage workbench.
If you do not want to remove the wing, then you can repair it right on the car, using straightening hammers, pliers and a jack.
As a rule, after carrying out straightening work, painting of the wings is required:
First, the part is degreased and cleaned to a metallic sheen;
Finished with a putty mixed with fiberglass, minor dents;
Finishing putty is applied and sanded well;
After drying, a primer is applied. Ideally, you should apply 2 coats and then paint;
Put epoxy varnish on top in 1-1.5 layers.
You can read in detail about the repair and restoration of other body parts in other articles on our website. Video reviews and useful photos, diagrams and drawings will only be a plus.
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Fans of domestic cars often stumble upon a problem with the body. For example, they bought a used car of the VAZ 2109 brand.
Rotten sill vaz 2109
Doors; Rear trunk lid; The front fenders are also removable. Dismantling of doors;
Removing the trunk lid;
Removing the hood cover;
Removing the radiator grill;
Removing both bumpers.
Disconnect the door opening limiter. To do this, use the socket wrench to unscrew the bolts securing the doors to the body pillars;
Unscrew the hinge fasteners, hold the door to avoid skewing. Do-it-yourself body repair of a VAZ 2109 is impossible without dismantling the trunk lid;
Therefore, we remove the upholstery by unscrewing the screws from the inside and snapping off the fastening latches. Disconnect the backlight wiring and remove the harnesses from the internal cavities.
Then we disconnect the stops and unscrew the trunk lid by unscrewing the bolts that attach it to the hinges, then remove it from the car.
Now we remove the hood, we start by marking the locations of the bolts on the brackets with respect to the hinges, so that during assembly it is easier to screw it into place.
We disconnect the power wires and dismantle the lighting lamps, be sure to remove the harnesses with wires from the grooves.
Now we unscrew the bolts securing the hood, two on each side, and remove it.
The hood has already been removed, now it is enough to unscrew just a couple of screws on the body that hold the grille.
Using a screwdriver, squeeze the plastic latch and pull the grill towards us, it can be easily removed.
Detaching the radiator grill
The bumpers are made of plastic alloy. When loaded on the bumper, it bends slightly rather than bursting.
Remove the front bumper by unscrewing the fasteners to the bracket and to the body, consisting of a pair of bolts.
Advice: We dismantle the rear bumper with a wrench, pre-lubricate the nuts with a liquid wrench (vd-40) or clean gasoline. In these places, the nuts rust and do not loosen well.
We begin the repair by dismantling the rotten, deformed and rusted parts.
Problem spots in the car:
Our car (which we are repairing in this article) has a completely rotten floor along with jacks and stiffeners. The jack had to be installed under the engine beam.
The floor in the back also rotted. The bottom was practically absent. The wings also required replacement.
The front hood is covered with rust, all the floor and gas tank mountings are missing, as well as the spare wheel mount. The front spar has burst in the area of the gearbox. And in the floor of the trunk above the muffler, a huge hole has formed.
The corners of the doors are corroded.
We have prepared the tool necessary for body repair, we are starting the installation.
We start with the engine compartment: drain the coolant, then remove the radiator. We take out the "TV", if it is completely rotten, then you can tear it off, and then cut off the flanges to which the TV was welded with a grinder.
We cut off completely the tail panel, and the wings. Using welding and patches, we weld holes in the mudguards (if any), insert flanges made of new metal, to which we will subsequently weld the “TV”.
In more detail, you can watch the body repair by typing in the search for a VAZ 2109 body repair video.
We install and weld new reinforcements for mudguards using roofing iron for this purpose.
Tip: I advise you to paint the TV in advance, after fixing it in place, it will not work well to paint it.
We restore the geometry of the car body.
We weld the patches to the front and rear floors using a welding machine. We digest all the jacks, joints and amplifiers of the bottom.
Using a rotary grinder, cover the cavities of the machine with an anti-corrosion mixture.
In the photo, the digested bottom of the VAZ 2109
In our case, the arches are completely rotten. Experts recommend not to suffer, but simply to purchase and install new arches.
At the first stage, pastes containing coarse-grained mechanical additives are used, then pastes that do not contain abrasive substances are applied, beforehand, the car should be thoroughly washed and dried.
Body painting is the final stage. It is produced one hundred percent or independently, if there is a spray gun and the skills to work with it. The body shines as good as new, the price of a DIY repair is many times lower than a hundred work.
Sometimes there are cases when it is much more profitable, both financially and in terms of saving time, to repair your car with your own hands. In this regard, we will consider today how you can easily and quickly restore the front floor of a VAZ 21099 car. As you can see in the photo below, you will have to change the entire square, which is completely rotten, entirely, patches in this case will not help.
- firstly, it is necessary to put the car so that it is convenient to work, that is, so that there is comfortable access to it both from below and from the side of the door;
-It is also recommended to cover the dashboard and seats with foil so that dust does not get on them when you need to cut a piece of the floor. After that, you will need to purchase or, if possible, get a piece of iron for free in order to cut out of it "a piece of the required size for the floor."
You will also need a front jack and a sill connector for repairs. What materials are suitable for processing? The bottom will need to be coated with Body 930, and the floor, after welding, will need to be filled with Body 992 anti-corrosion primer.
What else awaits the masters during their work? You will have to raise the support (pictured below), under which, most likely, you can find rust. The new metal joint will go underneath it.
How to lift it? It is necessary to drill out points, which will then help to orientate, or you can put yourself other marks.
It is imperative to get to the very place where she stood, otherwise there will be problems with the installation of the seat. In the upper part of the threshold, you need to focus on the area where the paint has been preserved and it is along the edge of this area that you need to cut out a rusted piece of the floor.
As for the door, it is better to remove it. This will help create a more comfortable working environment. Of course, it will take a little longer for repairs, but in the future it will not interfere with the restoration work.
If you look at the threshold, you can see that it itself is quite suitable, only the edge has jammed.
What can be done is to replace the amplifier, put a thick plate in the appropriate place (in the photo below) and weld it together in the right places.
What to look for: before starting work, you need to cover the interior (so that dust does not get on the seats and the dashboard, disconnect the battery terminals).
In this particular case, a semiautomatic device and CO2 gas will be used for welding.
At the initial stage of work, you need to drill out the base. The points are marked, then it will need to be put in place.
As you can see, the support was not removed for nothing, there is a lot of rust under it, which must be removed, as well as mark the boundaries of the new plank.
Now let's move on to the spar. If it is in good condition, you can leave it as in our case. The floor is welded to it with dots. They hold the sill joint and the floor itself.
The photo shows the side member and the threshold connection.
It will also be necessary to change the subjack.
You should also take into account one more important nuance: welding will be carried out in the places indicated in the photo.
As a result, the anticorrosive will burn under the arch. To apply a new one, you will need to remove the wheel and wheel arch liner. However, first, when these elements are removed, you need to cut out the rusted section of the floor. In places where you can find points, you just need to drill them, where it will be impossible to find them, you will need to cut off the metal. As one of the options for reducing dust in the cabin, you can water the treatment area with water and cut on an already wetted surface. After the section of the rusted floor has been cut out, you can proceed to the next stage.
Do not forget that under the section, which is shown in the photo, brake pipes and gas lines pass. Therefore, you need to disconnect them, make a spacer so that they are as far from the metal as possible.
Then you can cut off the old floor. Where you can see the points, it is a little easier, in these places you can drill them and separate the metal.
In places where they are not visible (as on a spar), you can cut off the edges or even make an incision in the middle and, prying the incised area, find these points. The main idea is to leave the spar, which will be in good working order after cleaning.
In addition, as you can see from the photo, in the place of the base plank, where there used to be quite a lot of rust, now it is practically a clean place.All that is needed for this is to clean this area with sandpaper, treat it with a rust converter, cover the area with soil and it does not need to be cut off.
The next step is to cut out the front jack, as it is rather rusty, and we also have a new one. As for the sill connector, it is still in good condition and there is no need to do the extra work by cutting it out and replacing it with a new one.
What should be done next? Everything is very simple: the piece of floor that we managed to get out is put into place, the excess parts are cut off, a careful fitting and welding is performed.
When the floor is welded, you will need to weld the cross member on top.
It is necessary to weld the front jack, install the sill joints, cover a new piece of floor with a primer on top, and coat with grease from below, Body 930 will do.
Today, do-it-yourself VAZ 2109 body repair is carried out by many owners of this car. And in general, a large part of the fans of the domestic auto industry is faced with body problems. The cost of repairing the body of a VAZ 2109 in car services leaves much to be desired, so you have to do some types of work yourself.
In reality, there is nothing complicated in replacing individual elements of the body of the "nine". If you have the necessary tools at hand, then it will not be difficult to replace, for example, a rotten arch or the bottom of a car, a threshold or a bumper. From the article you will learn how to do this without wasting a lot of time and effort.
Before proceeding to the direct instructions for repairing the body of the VAZ 2109, I would like to focus on choosing the right tools. Every professional, master of his craft will confirm that a good tool is half of the successful completion of any repair operation.
So, the list of necessary tools for body repair of the "nine" is quite wide, since the work is by no means simple and will require a considerable number of specific devices:
Special hammers are required, at least 3 types of them with different sizes for straightening work;
Grinder with fitted circles (you need different discs that perfectly remove paintwork and rust);
It is desirable that there is a carbon dioxide cylinder in the garage (about 10 cubic meters);
No welding during bodywork, like no hands (it is better to choose a device with a maximum current of 150 A);
Good chisels with hardened points and several of the same drills for metal;
Lift (it is better to have 2 jacks);
A good brush for metal (you will need it to clean rusty parts of the body);
A standard set of tools for a motorist (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.).
Let's get acquainted with the work process so far in general terms:
First of all, it will be necessary to remove those parts of the body that are rotten or deformed;
On the "nine" over time, the fastest rots are the front floor with sills and amplifiers, the bottom in the rear, doors and fenders.
Note. It is impossible even to put a jack, since the section provided by the manufacturer for it (the jack) comes into disrepair. To work in this place, the car can be lifted using the engine beam instead of the stop.
The hood of the "nine" also cannot boast of endurance. In the place where the battery is located, it becomes covered with rust;
The floor of the fuel tank is also considered a noticeable problem on the "nine";
The same fate befell over time the reflectors of the optics, the muffler and other parts.
In general, corrosion is the number one problem for domestic cars. It seems that the level of anti-corrosion protection on them is carried out well, but rust eats everything over time, and there is no getting away from it.
The engine compartment is being disassembled, the coolant and the radiator must be drained;
Doors are removed;
If a TV (amplifier) is installed in front, then it must be disassembled;
Rotten areas will have to be cut off with a grinder;
Rusty panels and fenders will also have to be cut off;
Holes can be simply welded or patched;
It is recommended to put additional metal pieces on problem areas;
Mudguards must be reinforced with new elements, and then tacked with spot welding;
It is also obligatory to fit new parts to the body so that there are no problems;
It is advisable to fasten the wings, thresholds with self-tapping screws, bolts, followed by welding of parts.
Note. The body is also obligatory, which takes a lot of time. You will need a slipway machine on which you will have to fix the car. There are special clamps on the slipway that ensure reliable fixation of the machine. You can read more about the control points of the "nine" below.
After that, you can start welding the new floor. At this stage of work, patches, amplifiers and connectors are widely used. Be sure to cover all areas with anticorrosive at the end;
It is better to put new arches too, and not bother with their repair.
It is advisable to cover the arches with resin mixed with used oil. This is an excellent anti-rye remedy, but you can't put it on the bottom for obvious reasons.
Do-it-yourself restoration of the correction of the original state of the body and parts involves, as a rule, simple painting and removal of dents. It is not complete without polishing, which protects the surface well from corrosion.
As for the complete restoration of a body that has been involved in an accident, the service of professionals is already required. Only in a car service can the body be properly restored, according to the basic checkpoints. Here, the appropriate equipment is available, and the specific technology of conducting is well known to the masters.
In any case, before carrying out repair work, it is necessary to check the condition of the body. The most famous method of verification involves measuring the distances between control points and then reconciling them with passport indicators.
Specifically, the body is checked as follows:
The dimensions are checked diagonally;
The condition of the car racks is being studied;
The roof is subjected to visual inspection, the dimensions of the diagonals of the door frame and the roof itself are measured;
Particular attention is paid to measuring the front and rear window frames;
Finally, a detailed visual inspection of the car from all angles is required. Maybe where there is a bulge, the gap is larger, and so on.
An interesting video about the repair and straightening of the "nine" body
VIDEO Often the rear and front bumpers on the "nine" are removed to carry out their repair or to restore other parts of the body. You will still have to learn how to remove them correctly and without problems, whatever one may say, if the owner intends to carry out body repairs on his own.
So, in order to remove the rear bumper:
On the side, we find the nuts that fix the bumper to the body, and turn them off (as a rule, there are 2 fasteners on each side);
We find the front nuts and now unscrew them (it is recommended to hold the bumper so that it does not fall).
The removal of the front bumper is carried out in a similar way, only here it is also necessary to remove the plastic wheel arch liners.
The preferred color of the bumpers on the "nine" is a perennial topic for discussions between lovers of this car model. Many are on the side of the classic black color, although there are those who believe that the color of the bumper should be in harmony with the color of the car.
Whatever it was, painting and decorative repairs are not difficult to carry out. The bumpers will need to be dismantled, thoroughly inspected for deformations. If there are any, then the elements will have to be aligned, and the rest of the parts will have to be cleaned of old paint and rust.
Attention. If the bumper is plastic, then its defects can be repaired with putty.
Plastic bumpers are excellently cleaned of rust and paint using sandpaper with a grain size of 200-400. If there are holes in the bumper, they can be covered with pieces of plastic removed from old bumpers or other plastic parts. As you know, plastic is well glued to each other with a soldering iron with a power of 40-60 watts.
In general, parts of a damaged plastic bumper can be fastened in 4 ways.
By melting the plastic of the bumper itself or additional linings. In this case, the width of the welded seam can be left at 1.5 cm, and as for the depth of the solder, it should depend on the thickness of the bumper.
By joining with parallel seams. In this case, ordinary wire, and nails with the caps removed, and other improvised means will help. You just need to solder these peculiar fasteners from the back of the bumper.
A more complex option involves the use of flexible wire, better than copper. It is already soldered in the same way as in method 3, only in a zigzag, a snake from the inside. If this method is not possible on the back of the bumper, the snake can also be made from the front.
The grille will connect the bumper pieces to each other more firmly than anyone else. To do this, you need to arm yourself with a mesh (a piece of decorative will do).
If you could not find similar pieces of plastic, then you can use other materials:
The same grille, bent over the shape of the bumper. After the mesh is soldered into the bumper, you need to take some plastic, similar in elasticity to the bumper material, and melt it, put it on the mesh. The borders of the standard plastic must be carefully combined with the edges of the superimposed material. After the plastic has hardened, it is necessary to smooth and sand everything;
You can build up the missing part of the plastic with putty. Only it will need to be mixed with "epoxy". Be sure to carry out grinding at the final stage;
The putty is also mixed with fiberglass.
The fixation of the front fenders on the "nine" is done quite successfully, if we mean the ease of removal. Only a few bolts hold them in place. Therefore, no welding is required to dismantle them, but it is enough just to arm yourself with a pair of good curly screwdrivers and an 8-dimensional head with an extension.
Lockers that are held on self-tapping screws are removed;
The wing bolt is unscrewed, holding the body element from below at the threshold;
Two more bolts hold the fender from the inside;
You will have to completely dismantle the bumper or unscrew its side fasteners, and then take it aside to gain access to another bolt that secures the wing;
Finally, it remains to remove a few bolts securing the wing from above.
With a wing, if it is deformed, it is also not customary to tinker. You can easily replace it with a new one, especially since it is inexpensive - 1200 rubles. If you use auto-parsing, then the part can be bought even at half the price.
If, nevertheless, the wing has received small deformations or traces of rust are observed on it, then it is easy to repair the part. Again, it can be removed and then refined at a garage workbench.
If you don't want to remove the wing, then you can fix it right on the car, using pliers and a jack.
As a rule, after carrying out straightening work, painting of the wings is required:
First, the part is degreased and cleaned to a metallic sheen;
Finished with a putty mixed with fiberglass, minor dents;
Finishing putty is applied and sanded well;
After drying, a primer is applied. Ideally, apply 2 coats and then paint;
Put epoxy varnish on top in 1-1.5 layers.
Video (click to play).
You can read in detail about the repair and restoration of other body parts in other articles on our website. Video reviews and useful photos, diagrams and drawings will only be a plus.
