Vaz 2110 DIY repair caliper

In detail: vaz 2110 do-it-yourself repair support from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

With some problems and repairs of the VAZ 2110-2112 brake system, the necessary action will be to remove the front wheel support. If the task is, for example, to replace brake discs, then the caliper can be removed as an assembly without disconnecting anything else.

Below we will consider this procedure more clearly. So, for this repair we need the following tool:

Balloon wrench and jack (for wheel removal)
Roller or ratchet
Socket head 17 mm

So, let's look at the order of actions that need to be performed.

Jack up the car
Remove the front wheel
Disconnect the brake hose from the engagement of the A-pillar
Remove the two caliper mounting bolts from the inside

See step-by-step instructions using the example of the VAZ 2110, which was made specifically for this article:

As you can see, this process can be completed in 5 minutes, the name is at hand, the necessary tool and an idea of all the necessary actions. The new caliper complete with brake pads has a price of 2,000 rubles for the original Avtovaz products. If we consider cheaper analogs, then you can buy a caliper and for 1500 rubles - a piece.

Of course, in most cases you only have to change the necessary parts of this entire structure, because the cylinder, bracket and pads are sold separately. And many car owners simply do not make sense to buy all this assembly.

06/19/2018 (mileage 149728 km)
After replacing the front struts, or rather the installation of liners, different wear of the brake pads was found. The detected defect, souring of the caliper pistons, is not completely, but still moves with difficulty. Okay, it was decided to sort it out, lubricate it and put it back together. I bought Dafmi pads for this (420 rubles), brake fluid DOT-4, repair kit for the caliper

Video (click to play).

(so nichrome, the range of prices for pads has become from 300 to 1200 rubles per set, and all without thermoplates.

A long time ago I bought a high-temperature grease for the calipers, dear pancake
On the Internet, I found only one video of an adequate person who told about the disassembly and lubrication of the calipers (or rather the caliper, he disassembled one) on its basis, and I did it.
Let's start:
We put under the place of work which mat is old, not full of holes, the plastic bowl is not high or something else, in my case it is a plug for pipes without ventilation holes.

Be careful not to tear the brake hose itself, I almost broke it, I was sitting there tight.

You can, of course, not do this, if you want to get lost with the retaining ring, the bracket interferes greatly for the free installation of the ring.

Have you ever wondered what exactly your safety on the road depends on? You can, of course, refer to other road users or the condition of the roads. But it will be much more relevant to talk about the technical side of the issue. The hero of our today's article on the VAZ 2110 is a support.

Front brake cylinder VAZ 2110

The mechanism, incredibly simple in design and operation, is at the same time an extremely important part of your VAZ car. A properly working caliper can give you those precious few meters of stopping distance in reserve, which can save you from a terrible disaster or damage to the vehicle.

Not every motorist knows how to properly monitor and maintain the brake mechanism, has a vague idea of how to dismantle it and, perhaps, will generally look at the interlocutor with an incomprehensible look at the mention of a certain VAZ caliper. But servicing this element of the brake system is quite simple and does not require much effort.

Caliper service VAZ 2110

On the road, you should not rely on the Almighty. Therefore, if you feel that something is wrong with the braking distance of the car, it is better to take the initiative in your own hands. Arm yourself with a modest arsenal of plumbing tools, consisting of a small number of open-end and socket wrenches, as well as a certain baggage of theoretical knowledge - get down to business.

The VAZ 2110 caliper is structurally an element that holds the brake pads and is responsible for the degree of their pressure on the brake discs. It is also responsible for even wear of the brake pads and guarantees the driver reliable braking in extreme situations. Thus, it is difficult to overestimate the importance of the caliper in the work of the car.

If by this time you have a quite reasonable question, and what can happen to the caliper on the VAZ 2110 (2112), we will be happy to answer you. The main cause of malfunctions is the "acidification" of moving elements, their coating with an oxide film, clogging due to the destruction of protective anthers or the use of improper lubrication, namely:

acidification of the main piston mechanism;
acidification of the guides.

Piston mechanism and caliper guides VAZ 2110

A clear sign of problems that a caliper can cause on VAZ cars is uneven wear of the brake pads and an increased braking distance. In this case, the VAZ pads must be changed without fail, and the caliper mechanism itself must be subjected to comprehensive diagnostics:

check the condition of the piston, the degree of its freedom, the presence of moisture, metal oxide, oxide formations and build-ups, the condition of the protective anthers;
similarly check the condition of the guides, make sure that there are no abnormal scoring, abrasion and deformation of the rod on the surface.

We must also not forget about the regular replacement of the brake fluid in the system. This should be done approximately every 40 thousand km. run VAZ-2110.

Because brake fluid is hydroscopic, it easily absorbs moisture, thereby oxidizing the piston mechanism and rendering it unusable. The piston stroke becomes difficult and there is uneven wear of the brake pads and wheel wedge.

Please note that the repair kit offered in self-service stores for the VAZ 2110 (2112) caliper contains a special lubricant for both the main piston and the guides. The use of Litol or graphite lubricant leads to swelling of the protective shock absorbers and further acidification of the guides. This kind of repair is unlikely to benefit your vehicle.

The very simple design of the product and the triviality of the dismantling process allow even a novice motorist to carry out repairs and maintenance. If you carefully follow the recommendations below, you will hardly have any difficulties at any stage of the process. You will save a lot of money spent on a trip to the workshop, and a considerable amount of time, because the terms of service are commensurate with the time required for a trip to the workshop.

The sequence for dismantling the product is as follows:

The first step is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. For safety reasons, you can further put it under the bottom of the car in the event of a jack failure;

On the VAZ 2112, the caliper is attached to the bracket with two M17 bolts, which you should unscrew. Penetrating grease may be needed to break the bolts;

If you need to replace the VAZ caliper or carry out a comprehensive repair, unscrew the product from the brake hose. Plug the end of the hose and you can proceed to further disassembly of the product.

The VAZ caliper should be serviced without fail after each brake pad replacement, as well as in the event of a forced revision due to its malfunction, for which, first of all, it is necessary to check the condition of all rubber elements, shock absorbers and anthers.Also, it is imperative to replace the lubricant for the caliper guides. You need a good, synthetic-based silicone grease that can withstand high temperatures.

If you had to buy a repair kit, there is such a lubricant, all the necessary gaskets, new guides and a piston. The price of such a pleasure will cost you about 500 rubles. Buy a new VAZ-2110 (2112) support, depending on the store and the region of Russia, will cost from 1000 to 1500 rubles.

To remove the piston from the seat, it is necessary to create an appropriate force with an air compressor (the pistons are repaired one at a time, the stroke of the second is blocked, for example, with a wooden block). With the same success, removing the product from the car, you can press the brake pedal without disconnecting the VAZ 2112 caliper from the brake hose. It is advisable to use a rubber pad in order to absorb the sharp impact of the freely moving piston and its “shot”.

The piston is pushed back with a special clamp. In this case, the boot should be bent in order to compensate for the excess air pressure. The bore for the piston and for the rails are cleaned and flushed with carburetor cleaning fluid, and all gaskets, anthers and seats are also thoroughly lubricated.

Brakes are a very important element of any car, because your safety depends on their performance. The main load on any car is borne by the front part, as we know there disc brakes. After a long mileage, already from 60,000 kilometers and more, the braking efficiency begins to fall, this may be due to improper operation of the brake caliper, sometimes you can even catch a "wedge". However, the device is quite simple and can be repaired by hand. I think this article will be useful to you, at the end there will be a detailed video ...

CONTENTS OF THE ARTICLE

To begin with, I will say that the front wheel can simply jam, by analogy as in this article, it just stops spinning! Guys, this is very dangerous, at speed it can lead to an accident. Therefore, the calipers need to be diagnosed correctly and on time. However, to begin with, a little about the structure.

There will be a separate article about the caliper, but now I want to show on my "fingers" what moving parts there are that suffer in the first place. This is a fairly simple device, it has only two working elements - guides and pistons.

They are the culprits of the whole "celebration", if they fail, then the work is disrupted. However, the structure of the piston is now quite strong, physical leakage, when you broke, say, the brake hose, is now a rare phenomenon. And therefore the caliper breaks down due to acidification of the pistons and guides, but about that a little lower.

If the operation of this unit is disrupted, then it turns out that there is an uneven wear of the brake pads. You just need to pull them out and look at them, if they work correctly, they should have approximately the same wear (plus or minus 10%). If the rear, for example, is thicker than the front, it turns out that the caliper is not working properly! The brake disc is also worth looking at - wear should be even. If the wear of the pads is uneven, and it is pronounced, for example, the outer one is much more worn out than the inner one, you urgently need to either change or repair the caliper and not wait until it jam.

Such uneven wear speaks only of the rim - the pistons are strongly pressing on one pad (there is maximum wear), and the second, as it were, does not participate at all.

The reasons, as always, are commonplace, they are "souring" or "coking" of the brake pistons or guides. This can happen both due to improper maintenance and due to a banal breakdown.

1) Improper service. Often, LITOL or graphite grease is stuffed on the guides in the garages of folk craftsmen, which leads to the swelling of the anther of the guide, and later it simply "sours".

2) This is a banal anther breakthrough. Moisture begins to flow onto the guide, which sooner or later will corrode it and lead to acidification.

3) The next reason lies in the piston itself. Its body can also suffer from a ruptured anther, water gets in.

4) Either from poor quality brake fluid. It is hydroscopic, and therefore, over time, a lot of water accumulates in it, if it is not replaced, then it begins to corrode the piston from the inside, which also leads to acidification.

Well, now let's go directly to the repair of the caliper. Let's start with the simplest.

Often, the guides are a kind of bolts that are screwed into special lugs of the body. If they show foci of corrosion that can no longer be removed, then they just need to be replaced.

We unscrew it from the mount (ear) and insert a new guide, a very simple replacement. After that, you need to use only the correct lubricant (usually comes in the kit), and it is also important not to forget to put on the anthers, we immediately check them for leaks, there should be no breaks and cracks. Now I propose to move on to the pistons.

Here the task is more difficult, because they are located inside the caliper body and repair is not so easy. I want to note right away - there are times when the piston gets wedged in the body, and it does not move at all! There can be two actions here:

1) Try to revive this support, put it "soak", say, in gasoline or silicone grease. Then carefully try to pull the piston out of the housing.

2) Buy a corny new caliper. Sometimes it jams very firmly, breaking the case; repairs will not help here.

If the pistons are still running, the first difficulty concerns pulling them out of the body. To do this, the service station uses compressed air, which is fed into the brake fluid hole. Thus, the piston simply flies out, if you are doing repairs in the garage, then you need to "squeeze out" with the help of brake fluid, just without disconnecting them from the general system. Do not worry that the "brake" will leak, you still need to change it after repair.

Now we examine the case. If there are traces of bending, rust, or mechanical damage, then it definitely needs to be changed, the repair will not be justified here. To do this, we purchase a repair kit, with rubber seals and new pistons, it is important to replace that it must have a special lubricant, usually for both the guides and pistons! IT IS IMPORTANT!

Without it, there will be no point in repairing, because how can you break new seals.

Now I will list the points:

1) We take out the old rubber bands and seals.

3) We clean the case, both outside and inside.

4) Then, applying a new lubricant, we process all the attachment points.

5) Install the gum seals

6) Install the pistons, also pre-lubricated.

After these manipulations, we collect the caliper. The repair is finished, it can be installed on the car. Do not forget to change the brake fluid and then bleed the system.

Now I want to provide you with a detailed repair video, described in more detail.

That's all, I think my article was useful to you, put the likes in the social. networks!

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Front brake cylinder VAZ 2110

Caliper service VAZ 2110

acidification of the main piston mechanism;
acidification of the guides.

Piston mechanism and caliper guides VAZ 2110

check the condition of the piston, the degree of its freedom, the presence of moisture, metal oxide, oxide formations and build-ups, the condition of the protective anthers;
similarly check the condition of the guides, make sure that there are no abnormal scoring, abrasion and deformation of the rod on the surface.

We must also not forget about the regular replacement of the brake fluid in the system. This should be done approximately every 40 thousand km. run VAZ-2110.

The sequence for dismantling the product is as follows:

The first step is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. For safety reasons, you can further put it under the bottom of the car in the event of a jack failure;

On the VAZ 2112, the caliper is attached to the bracket with two M17 bolts, which you should unscrew. Penetrating grease may be needed to break the bolts;

If you need to replace the VAZ caliper or carry out a comprehensive repair, unscrew the product from the brake hose.Plug the end of the hose and you can proceed to further disassembly of the product.

The VAZ caliper should be serviced without fail after each brake pad replacement, as well as in the event of a forced revision due to its malfunction, for which, first of all, it is necessary to check the condition of all rubber elements, shock absorbers and anthers. Also, it is imperative to replace the lubricant for the caliper guides. You need a good, synthetic-based silicone grease that can withstand high temperatures.

The article will discuss how the brake caliper works and how to perform caliper repair do it yourself at home.

When the driver presses the brake pedal, the pads are pressed against the discs and thus the car stops. But unfortunately, they have not yet come up with mechanisms that could retract the brake pads to their original position. They just stop pressing tightly against the discs. Often, after long-term operation, the brake mechanism acquires some malfunctions, which significantly affects the rapid or uneven wear of brake pads and discs, increased noise and an unpleasant odor. The pads overheat and lose their grip at the same time. In short, the vehicle's braking system becomes ineffective.

In fact, there are not so many reasons why such malfunctions are possible. These are either damaged guides along which the caliper moves, or dirt on the working surface that interferes with the free movement of the pads.

Well, or the caliper itself. The last option will be discussed in this material:

-Small amendment: there is still a part in the caliper that contributes to the return movement of the piston after the loss of pressure - this is the cuff. On the one hand, it provides tightness, on the other, it is a kind of spring. Square in cross-section, when the piston moves, it deforms, and then tends to take the form of rest, along the way slightly recessed the piston into the body.

Over time, the elasticity of the cuff is lost, the pads remain pressed against the discs, increased friction, overheating and all other delights. This is not always obvious. How can you troubleshoot?

First of all, the suspended wheel should spin freely, even immediately after pressing and releasing the brake pedal.

Brake discs must not show signs of overheating

outer and inner pads should not have a difference in thickness

brake caliper piston should be easily recessed into the housing.

If there is cause for concern, we start looking for a problem. Most often it occurs due to a damaged anther.

but even if outwardly intact, look under it

the piston surface must be perfectly flat, without any traces of rust or dirt.

VAG provides a repair kit consisting of rubber bands, there are also a bunch of analogues from third-party manufacturers

but there is no piston on sale. However, this is not a problem at all, you can safely use non-original pistons available on the free sale for cars of previous generations.

And now about the repair procedure itself:

-jump the car and unscrew the wheel, turn the steering wheel to the extreme position

-remove the retaining spring

- thoroughly clean the surface near the brake hose mount

- rinse with some kind of cleaner, blow with air

-in order not to lose the brake fluid level, we pinch the brake hose

- unscrew the hollow bolt securing the hose,

- so that the dirt does not get inside, and the liquid does not flood everything around, put a simple bolt with a thread 10 * 1.5 into the hole

-remove the protective caps on the guides

-Unscrew the guides with a 7 mm hexagon.

-it is necessary to slightly drown the piston, for that, using a thick screwdriver, we move the body away from the disk

-remove the caliper, helping ourselves with a screwdriver (screwdrivers)

- one block can remain in the bracket, one is fixed with a spring to the caliper

—stopping support in hand. Remove the cover with a flat screwdriver

- miracles, but even with external well-being, moisture could be inside

-the piston can be removed from the body in three ways:

- without still disconnecting the caliper from the hose, remove it from the disc, and press the brake pedal until the piston falls out. And immediately pinch the hose.

- squeeze the body in a vice, and pull the piston with large "crocodiles", simultaneously making circular movements

- but the easiest way is to remove it with air. However, do not forget to provide support for the safety of your own body parts.

- having drained the remaining brake fluid, remove the old cuff

- it is necessary to thoroughly clean the seating surface of the protective cover

-and also grooves for the cuff

-Before reassembly, it is necessary to flush again (ELSA recommends alcohol, but not inside) and blow with air.

- with clean (!) hands we put a new cuff

-Slightly lubricate it with fresh brake fluid

-a bit t. spill on the piston surface (the same ELSA provides a special paste for this)

- we put the piston in the body strictly vertically, and slightly shaking it, with the effort of our fingers, we press it

-Drowning almost to the middle, put on a protective cover

- making sure that the elastic is not jammed anywhere, press the cover onto the case. A wire ring is welded into it, a special mandrel is provided for an even fit by VAG

-but you can do without it, the main thing is uniform effort

- drown the piston completely, and then push it out with the help of air, and make sure that the boot is flat, not twisted or torn anywhere

- re-sink the piston completely, and you can start assembling. However, since we have come to the repair and maintenance of brakes, everything must be done correctly. So - we unscrew the caliper brackets

-and thoroughly clean all surfaces on which the pads move

-make sure that the thread into which the guides are screwed is not damaged

* weak point on VW of the latest generation. Often, when unscrewing the guide, dirt and rust formed on the protruding part pull out the threads behind them.

-screw the bracket into place (before reuse, clean the bolts and tighten them with a torque of 190Nm ),

put the block on and make sure that it does not get stuck anywhere

-clean the guides from dirt. If there are traces of rust, it is better to replace them altogether.

-insert the inner block into the piston with a spring, put the caliper on the bracket, bait the guides with your fingers (!)

be sure to make sure that the bolt goes along the thread, and only then tighten (30 Nm)

-we put on the caps, so as not to forget later, insert the spring

-the brake hose is attached to brake caliper hollow bolt, and sealed with two rings.

- we can safely call them disposable.

And they are removed only with the help of a tool

-but at the same time it is not possible to find them in ETKA as a separate part.You can safely put rings from a similar assembly used in domestic cars. Unless, before installing, slightly move back and forth on a fine skin

- Before assembly, blow out the fitting

-and clean the mating plane on the hose

-Unscrew the bleed fitting and release the brake hose

- usually, after such work, there is no need to pump the circuit, it is enough to wait until the liquid flows from the fitting, evenly and without bubbles

-for ecology lovers, you can hang a bottle and control the air through a transparent hose

- tighten the shooter (30Nm), get behind the wheel and reduce the pads with a few strokes of the pedal.

-wash off the remaining brake fluid and others and traces of activity

- especially pay attention to the CV joint boot, ball joint and steering tip covers

If these are not observed, we fasten the wheel, lower the jack. Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Top up if necessary.

Make a test drive. If the pedal fails when pressed for the first time, and after a couple of strokes it becomes higher, repeat the procedure for removing air.

There is also a possibility that due to the different elasticity of the cuffs in the old and worn caliper, there will be a difference in the speed of the brakes. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out the bulkhead on both sides at once.

Well, now you can rejoice in the serviceable brakes.
Thus, now you have learned how to execute repair of front and rear brake caliper

A caliper on any car is the unit that secures the brake pads, namely disc brakes. Since the rear brakes on the VAZ 2110 in the factory layout are drum brakes, it means that this unit is equipped with the front brake mechanism.

Brake Caliper Darbis FS-14

The main advantages are as follows:

When compared with a drum one, the disc is more reliable, and the braking is "sharper", due to which the braking distance is reduced;
The pedal responds faster after pressing;
The system cools better, which is important when driving in conditions when you need to brake frequently;
It is very convenient in operation, repair, such brakes are easier to dismantle;
Do not freeze after entering a puddle of water or after washing.

Components of the assembly on the front brake mechanism:

Dustproof cover;

Holder for pads;

Noise protection pad and spring;

Two pads: an internal one with a wear indicator and an external one;

Fastening plates;

Cylinder cover and piston;

Caliper;

Staple;

Air outlet valve;

Gasket, bushing, pin, seal.

For the tenth - twelfth VAZ models, these nodes are structurally the same, only the VAZ 2110 caliper bracket is different. Therefore, it becomes possible to install not only a "native" node, but also from "related" models. Naturally, this requires replacement of the staple itself.

Read also: DIY repair pierburg 2e2

It plays a critical role in securing the caliper and brake mechanism and also forming the front pressure mechanism along with the caliper, piston and caliper.

Thus, the bracket is not only a holding, but also a guiding element of the front wheel locking mechanism.

Front Caliper Parts

Naturally, in the event of a failure, the entire unit is often replaced, but repairs for individual elements are quite possible, for which there are special repair kits.

The price of a repair kit is on average about 500 rubles and includes:

1 hose connection with cap;
2 protective covers for guides;
1 sealing ring;
1 caliper protective ring.

The price of a new left or right front caliper fluctuates around 1000-1500 rubles.

There are only two main problems: the first - when the brake fluid leaks, the second - when the front caliper wedges. If a TJ leak is detected, then repairing the brake system includes checking all hoses, connections, as well as overhauling the most important unit - the caliper.

When the brakes wedge, the root cause should be looked for in corrosion processes or mechanical causes (breakdowns).

To repair the VAZ 2110 brake caliper, you first need to raise the front of the car, first loosening the wheel nuts.

Remove the front wheel;
Disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, put a plug so that the liquid does not leak out;
We remove the node.

First rule: if you do not want further trouble, especially when one of the wheels wedges, never repair only one caliper, always - both together!

The complete assembly of the front brakes can now be performed. A prerequisite after repair is to bleed the brakes.

It remains only to check if the wheels are locked properly when you press the brake pedal, if the caliper does not wedge. Everything is fine? So, you can hit the road.

Details of the front brake caliper on VAZ 2110 cars | VAZ 2111 | VAZ 2112:
1 - pumping union; 2 - working cylinder; 3 - fixed caliper bracket; 4 - guide pin of the movable bracket; 5 - protective cover of the guide pin; 6 - the bolt of the guide pin; 7 - lock plate; 8 - movable caliper bracket; 9 - bolt of fastening of the working cylinder to the movable bracket; 10 - brake pads

useful tips for a motorist

Welcome!
Caliper - due to it, the car stops, and if we talk in more detail, then in the caliper there is a brake piston and two brake pads due to which braking is carried out when you press the pedal, but sometimes this very piston turns sour or wedges in connection with what to brake the wheel on which the brake caliper with a jammed piston is installed either starts constantly and you cannot do anything about it, or the wheel stops braking altogether and in the end you have only three wheels that stop the car at speed.

Note!
In order to repair the caliper and replace all the faulty parts that are in it, you will need to take with you: The main set of wrenches, a hexagon, as well as a screwdriver, you also need a little new brake fluid and you will also need a vice, since the work will take place with them. much faster and easier!

Summary:

Where is the brake caliper located?
There are only two brake calipers in the car of the ninth family, and they are located only on the front wheels of the car, it will be difficult to see this unit without removing the wheel if, of course, you do not have discs through which the entire brake system of the car is clearly visible, so if you have there are ordinary stamped discs, then you will first need to remove the wheel from the car and only after that you will see the brake caliper in front of you, which is still indicated in the photo below with an arrow for clarity.

When should a caliper be repaired?
In general, in some cases, the caliper needs not only to be repaired, but also to be completely replaced with a new one, but this is only if it was deformed as a result of being hit by something, or even if it is covered with rust that will corrode it over time and as a result of which he and the piston due to which the braking occurs can generally jam.

Well, the caliper itself needs to be repaired if, as already mentioned earlier, the piston is stuck (In this case, the piston needs to be changed and the brake caliper work again), and it also needs to be repaired in case of damage to the bleed fitting (This is treated by replacing the bleed fitting with new), because if it is damaged, then you will no longer be able to bleed the brakes, for example, after replacing the brake fluid, and if you cannot bleed the brakes, then, accordingly, this caliper will not work for you either.

Note!
When the caliper becomes unusable or some of the parts that are inside it fail, then the first thing that will happen is that the car will slow down worse or it will slow down constantly, even though you do not press the brake pedal, so if your the car has such symptoms, then they can be sinned on the caliper itself and the parts that are installed in it!

Disassembly:
1) At the very beginning of the operation, you will need to remove the caliper itself from the car, in order to first check its condition, and secondly, replace all that do not work on it. (For how to remove the caliper, see the article titled: "Replacing the brake caliper with a VAZ")

Note!
Before removing this unit, make sure 100% that exactly it does not work, for this, first just look at its condition, the presence of defects is not allowed, after which you can ask another person (if any) to get into the car and press several times on the brake pedal, and at this time you will have to observe the operation of the very piston that is inside the caliper, it will have to move and, therefore, the brake pads (indicated by green arrows) will have to tightly grip the brake disc indicated by the blue arrows (This is by the way it will be possible to look through the gap in the caliper, which is indicated by a red arrow in the photo below), and when the pedal is released, they must unclench and, as a result, move away from the brake disc without preventing it from rotating!

2) Now, when the caliper is removed, install it together with the bracket that is on it in a vice, in exactly the same way as shown in the photo below, and when the brake caliper is clamped using a hexagon, unscrew the two hex bolts that secure the brake cylinder (Inside this cylinder there is the same piston that was mentioned above), and after the bolts are unscrewed, pulling the cylinder itself, disconnect it from the brake caliper caliper.

3) Then, when the brake cylinder is removed, take it in your hands, and using a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring from it, but only when you remove it, be careful not to tear the protective cover that is on the piston and cylinder (It is still indicated by the arrow), in Otherwise, you will have to replace the cover with a new one.

Note!
When the retaining ring is removed that holds the protective cover, move the screwdriver to the side and use your hands to remove the protective cover from the cylinder!

4) Next, you will need to remove the piston itself from the brake cylinder and if it is deformed or if there is rust on it, then you will have to replace it with a new one, although if there is little rust, the piston can still be polished, about how to do this see the article titled: "The pistons of the brake cylinders are jammed, what to do?" polishing the brake cylinder pistons.

Note!
So what to do if the piston turns out to be rusty, we have already told you, but how to remove this piston from the cylinder was not said a word, and so it is removed very simply, for this you need some kind of special tool inside which will be compressed air and with its help, supplying compressed air through the hole where the brake hose is inserted, remove the piston from the cylinder, for clarity, also look at the video below, but only in the roller it is made more accurate, a stick is inserted there so that the piston does not fly out and does not deform, but also, the supply of compressed air is carried out through the brake hose so that the piston does not suddenly fly out, but it is gradually squeezed out, but in fact, you can not do all this!

5) Next, use a screwdriver again, namely, with the help of it, gently pry and remove the O-ring from the brake cylinder, but when you remove it, try not to damage the mirror part of the cylinder.

Note!
In fact, it is recommended to replace this ring immediately after removing the piston, but still, if you do not have a new O-ring with you, then take a look at the old one and if you do not find any defects on it, for example, such as: Cracks, swelling, loss of elasticity rings, then this sealing ring can not be replaced with a new one!

6) And finally, if you need to remove the bleed nipple and mark it with a new one, then simply unscrew it using a spanner wrench and screw a new one in its place.

Assembly:
The brake caliper itself is assembled in the same way as it is disassembled, but only during assembly you need to know a few details, namely:

1. Before installing the piston into the cylinder, you will first need to install a new O-ring inside the cylinder itself in its place, and before installation, we recommend that you also lubricate it with a little new brake fluid

2. Then take the piston in your hands and you will need to insert it into the inside of the cylinder, but before installing in two stages, install the protective cover, for this, first insert the edge of the protective cover into the groove on the piston itself (see photo 1), and then lubricate it with a new one With brake fluid, the cylinder mirror and the working surface of the piston, sink the piston into the cylinder itself and then put the edge of the protective cover into the groove on the brake cylinder body (see photo 2) and finally install the retaining ring in its place so that the protective cover is held.

3. Something else, but this does not concern the caliper, but it concerns the guide pins that hold the caliper bracket, so before you put both guide pins back in place, you need to lubricate them with Uniol-1 grease, or some other nor be like her.

Note!
When the caliper is installed in its place, be sure to bleed the brakes on the car, otherwise the car will slow down very badly, which will lead to an emergency in the future, how to bleed the brake system, see the article entitled: “Bleeding the brakes on VAZ cars”!

Additional video clip:
If you want to see clearly how the brake cylinder is being replaced, as well as if you want to hear a couple of practical tips, then watch the video clip below, which shows everything in detail:

Video (click to play).