Vaz 2110 DIY repair ignition lock

In detail: vaz 2110 do-it-yourself repair of the ignition lock from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Ignition lock in a VAZ 2110 car, like any other, is designed to switch electrical circuits and turn on the starter. Therefore, if it is out of order, then you will no longer be able to start the car.

It should be noted that the ignition switch is a tool for starting / stopping the engine, it can open or close certain groups of contacts, so when the lock is broken, the engine will not be activated. So if you have problems with it, then you will definitely need a wiring diagram of the work and a wiring diagram for the lock on the VAZ 2110 in order to check and repair it.

Below is a visual diagram of the device itself and the wiring diagram for connecting the ignition lock, it is suitable for both a VAZ 2110 car and its modifications - 2111 and 2112.

Wiring diagram for the ignition lock VAZ 2110

Wiring diagram of the ignition lock VAZ 2110

Pinout of the ignition lock VAZ 2110:

+12 volt power supply, which must be supplied for the microswitch of the sensor of the inserted key;
Mass should come when the doors are opened from the driver's side;
+12 volt source, current must be supplied to the starter (with pin 50);
The +12 volt source goes out after the ignition is turned on, as an example, additional equipment: clock, DVR, etc. (contact at the same time 15);
It also goes +12 volts when you insert the key on the 5th contact of the on-board control system;
+12 volt power comes in, with the help of it the illumination of the ignition lock cylinder works;
+12 volt power comes from the battery (pin 30);
Do not use.

Video (click to play).

Replacing the ignition switch on a VAZ 2110 has to be done if its operation cannot be restored in any way or the key is broken / lost. In other cases, they are usually repaired.

There are two groups of main breakdowns:

Mechanics faulty... The most common problem is maggot breakage. Keys are made of soft metal, so they are unreliable and can often break off. There is also a problem with the steering wheel lock, or the key may simply jam when the position is on.
Contact group wear... Regardless of what kind of breakdown you have, you still have to dismantle the lock. If the tongue of the blocker is jammed, then you will have to work hard to correct the situation. The contact group or larva is quite repairable.

In order to check the ignition lock on the VAZ 2110, there are many instructions and methods, we will consider some of them.

Detailed instructions for checking faults in the ignition switch:

The first thing to do is to disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
Dismantle the plastic steering column cover in order to get to the contacts of the pads, because it is with their help that the power is connected to the car's wiring. Next, disconnect the connector of the harness itself from the on-board network and pull it out.

The entire lock as a whole is not very expensive, although most of the breakdowns can be fixed quite easily, for this you will need to dismantle it, disassemble and then change the parts that are out of order.

To replace the contact group of the VAZ 2110 ignition lock, you will first need to squeeze the latches so that some of the parts can be freely removed from the case. Then you can easily set up a new group. You will not be able to mix up the sides for installation, because the part simply will not be on the other side.

Contact group replacement instructions:

First you need to disconnect the plug that goes to the backlight.Using a screwdriver, you need to bend 3 latches, which are fixed with a plastic cover, then you can remove it from the lock.
To gain access to the contact group, you need to bend 2 more latches.
After that, you need to inspect the fiber plate and check if there is a black coating and other deposits. If you find any, then you can remove these defects with fine sandpaper. If after that there is no result, then you can replace it.
Under the fiber plate there are 3 more plates, which are also characterized by oxidation, as a result of this, the contact group can junk. They can also be cleaned with sandpaper.

If you want to to do just prophylaxis for the contact group, then enough once every six months lubricate contacts with penetrating or graphite grease, which would well counteract the oxide. Choosing a lubricant is a very serious and difficult procedure. When buying, do not take the cheapest one. I would like to note that there are several types of lubricants: light (not thick) and heavy (thick). Some motorists use liquid key or WD-40 penetrating spray lubricant.

A replacement of the lock cylinder produced only if if the car has been hijacked or simply the key does not turn well in the lock. To change it, you will have to remove the protective plate from the outside of the part using a special slotted screwdriver. After dismantling, you just have to install a new part and periodically lubricate it with grease to extend the service life of the part (it is recommended to lubricate it 2 times a year, before and after the autumn-winter season).

If the microswitch is broken, then in this case it is required to unscrew the screws from the case, remove the rod and squeeze the retainer. After that, the switch can be easily removed and in its place new... Everything is going into place, respectively, in the reverse order.

Replace the backlight generally the easiest way, for this you need to dismantle the power connector, then you can gently get it out with the pliers.

To replace the ignition switch, you need to know some of the nuances.

Replacing the lock with a new one is needed only if it has stopped working altogether or if a serious enough breakdown has occurred, in all other cases it is possible to do with replacing the failed parts.

The most common reasons for replacement:

if the car has been stolen;
if the key has been lost;
breakdown of the contact group.

Instructions for replacing the ignition switch:

To carry out such a procedure, you need to use special shear head boltssome motorists recommend them replace with 20mm M6 bolts, which are removed faster during repeated repairs;
To loosen the tightening of the bolts, you will need a chisel; during use, you need to be extremely careful not to break the head from the bolt;
Immediately before replacing the ignition switch, you need to insert the key into it and turn to position "I"so that the catch that locks the steering shaft mechanism is in the lock body.
Then you can put the ignition lock on the steering column and secure it with a bracket, also tighten it with bolts for fastening.
After removing the key from the keyhole, you need to check if the steering shaft locking mechanism works. If the shaft lock has not worked, then it will be necessary to adjust the position of the ignition switch on the steering column until the latch enters the groove on the steering shaft.
When the locking mechanism works normally, then with the help of a spanner wrench on "10", finally, you need to tighten the fastening bolts.

Ultimately, I would like to note that the repair of the VAZ 2110 ignition lock is not very difficult to perform, you just have to try, and everyone will be able to perform a simple algorithm of actions in order to cope with the task at hand.

Hello again, dear readers of my blog. Today, as always, we are considering a topic related to the car. We will pay special attention to such a unit as the VAZ 2110 ignition lock. Let's briefly go over: purpose, structure, causes of malfunction, repair.

There is a mistaken opinion among the majority of car owners that the main thing in a car is the engine, transmission, chassis. Someone will ask, why is it wrong? It is necessary to consider the machine as a single, whole organism. And all the units, aggregates are solely as constituent links.

For example, a breakdown of the starting system will cause the vehicle to stop and not be able to continue moving. Prompt repair required. How well the example was chosen is the topic of today's article. And, by the way, it is up to the reader to agree or disagree with my statement individually.

For the entire Lada line, the lock is located on the right side of the steering wheel, sewn into a plastic box, presented in the form of an integral block made of duralumin alloy. On the back side, to which the board with contact connectors is connected (8 in total). The contact group of wires has strictly its own purpose, the diagram (pinout) is as follows:

Key microswitch;
Weight for the driver's door;
Starter circuit for "plus" supply;
12 watts to be fed to the launch system;
Zero on the key when it is in the keyhole;
Illumination of the lock slot;
Voltage directly from the battery;
Reserve socket for connecting other devices at the discretion of the driver.

Despite the fact that locks of the old and new designs are sold, with and without illumination, the structure of the core and the contact board is absolutely identical. When the wiring diagram does not match, refer to the instruction manual carefully.

The main position is "0" when the system is completely de-energized;
An "I" mark will indicate the system is active, on. It is possible to turn on the dimensions, headlights, direction indicators, "wipers", the informative instrument panel lights up, the stove heater is activated, the heating threads of the rear window of the car glow, the lamp on the console shows the state of the units;
The key is at mark "II": the power unit of the auto is started. But for the very start of the motor, moving the key to position "II" is not enough. It is necessary to crank a little further, until it stops. The voltage will go to the auto starter, which will start the engine. After a successful start, the key will return to position "II" by itself, the starter will be disconnected, the internal combustion engine will continue to work. Sometimes the engine will not start the first time.

After starting the engine, the auto key does not return to position "II". This indicates that the cylinder of the ignition lock is already badly worn out, the weakness of the return spring, and the resistance has decreased. At this moment, the starter and the engine work simultaneously, which is detrimental to both components of the car. Systematic such "starts" will lead to the fact that the owner will have to buy new "brushes" for the starter, worse when the whole starter. And this is not a cheap pleasure. The spring is not repaired, so buying a new one is mandatory.
Mechanical damage due to an attempt to steal a vehicle by intruders;
The whole system does not work: due to inaccurate handling directly by the driver. It's no secret that each of us has our own manners, driving style. Some take good care of their "favorites", others change them like gloves.

Drivers without experience, as practice shows, at the first breakdown, run to service stations, car markets to buy a new ignition lock, giving their hard-earned money. My advice is not to rush to do this. Perhaps the reason is completely trifling, it is not worth such waste. Do-it-yourself replacement will take no more than 5 minutes. If you are not sure, contact a highly qualified electrician at the service station for diagnostics and troubleshooting. Having the skills, disassemble the lock and fix the breakage.The Priora lock is similar in design to the younger and older models, for example, on the VAZ 2107, and on the VAZ 2114 the structure is similar.

Remove the terminal marked "-" on the battery. If there is a central toggle switch in the car, you can turn it off.
Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the screws at the bottom of the steering wheel cover.
We remove directly the casing itself.
Unscrew the fastening bolts of the ignition lock with a spanner key on "8", disconnect the contact board.
If there is a breakdown in the core, then we replace it entirely with a new one, if the contact is damaged, then we change the board.
The assembly is carried out in a similar order, only in reverse order. The packaging of electrical wiring must be carried out with care, without damage.

For those who are unsure, you can use the car manual, which describes in detail one or another unit, wiring diagram, assemblies, attached photos. Agree that the difference in price is significant, whether to buy the whole lock, or just the core.

Recommendation: good quality spare parts, components from the Dimitrovgrad Automotive Aggregate Plant (DAAZ). Get it, you won't regret it. The online store will help you quickly buy a part directly from the manufacturer. To choose a particular brand, be sure to read customer reviews, watch video tutorials.

The main thing when starting the car is to use the original key that comes from the factory. Since the immobilizer is a kind of anti-theft device that will prevent the engine from starting. The electric circuit is output to the car alarm or central locking.

In case of loss or failure of the auto key, for any reason, it is necessary to contact certified service centers to make a duplicate. Some "craftsmen" manage to deactivate the immobilizer, but this is similar to disabling the antivirus program on the computer. Would you do it? I doubt. How much the repairs cost is anyone's guess.

This concludes the discussion of the topic. I really hope that the article will be useful to many readers. According to the numerous requests of motorists, in the following articles we will consider topics such as the injector, the on-board computer gives VAZ 2114 errors, the clutch cable flew to the VAZ 2114, what to do. Thank you all for your attention. See you soon.

The VAZ 2110 ignition lock cannot be called a reliable part, especially when comparing its service life with the same devices on cars of foreign origin. Therefore, the owners of the tenth to twelfth models, who have been using cars for a long time, sooner or later face lock malfunctions and repairs. On the other hand, the element can be easily removed from the car and every skilled motorist is capable of replacing it. But first, it's worth figuring out whether you need to change the whole part, since in most cases it can be repaired.

There are 3 main reasons leading to breakdowns of this device:

mechanical wear as a result of long-term operation;
malfunctions in the electrical part of the castle;
breakdown due to burglary and car theft attempts.

Reference. The first troubles associated with turning on the ignition and starting the engine may appear after three years of operation of the VAZ 2110-2112.

Not each of the listed reasons leads to a complete replacement of the element, sometimes you can get by with "little blood" by changing one of its parts. To determine this issue, you need to diagnose the symptoms of a malfunction:

The contacts are burnt or oxidized. In this case, the mechanical part works, but the electrical part does not. The problem is solved by cleaning or replacing the contact group.
The key gets stuck in the slot, after starting the engine it is not thrown back and has to be turned by hand. These are malfunctions of the core (larva) and the rejecting spring, which are quite amenable to repair.
Obvious mechanical breakdowns of the locking tab (the steering wheel is very difficult to rotate), jamming or cracks in the case - this is a reason to change the entire ignition switch.

A separate issue is the loss of all the keys by the owners. It is solved in two ways - by replacing the entire device or by the mechanism for turning the key - the larva. For obvious reasons, the second option will be cheaper, especially if you do the work yourself.

Reference. As practice shows, an ignorant driver himself who has lost the keys and is trying to unlock the steering wheel in order to start the engine by short-circuiting the wires can break the mechanical insides of an element. There is a more elegant way - to remove the lock, and only then connect the veins of certain colors, which is described below.

The malfunction of the contact group is easy to diagnose if there is a multimeter or other device with a resistance measurement function in the household. To do this, you need to get to the connector under the plastic frame of the steering column and disconnect it. Then, with a multimeter, measure the resistance between all contacts in the block, turning the key to different positions. Depending on the result, the following conclusions are drawn:

the device shows infinity - the contact group is out of order and needs to be replaced;
some resistance value indicates burnt or oxidized contacts, try to clean them;
zero readings of the device indicate that the electrical part is completely functional.

Important! Resistance should be measured in the block whose wires come from the ignition switch (male connector), do not confuse it with other contacts connected to the car's on-board network.

For disassembly, you need to prepare a simple set of tools:

10 mm head and ratchet wrench;
Phillips screwdriver;
narrow chisel (width 5-8 mm);
hammer;
round nose pliers with tapered curved ends.

In order to successfully put a new or repaired lock in place, it is advisable to purchase 4 special fastening bolts with M6 thread with a head size of 10 mm, length - 20 mm. Their peculiarity is the heads that come off with a wrench at a certain tightening torque. After the heads are torn off, semicircular caps remain on the surface, which are much more difficult to unscrew for an unprepared person. But you will have to do this when disassembling.

Like any event related to interference with the electrical part of the car, dismantling the ignition switch begins with disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Then proceed in this order:

Using a “cross” screwdriver, unscrew the self-tapping screws holding together the 2 halves of the plastic frame of the steering column.
Lower the handle that fixes the position of the steering wheel during adjustment down to the stop and remove the plastic panels. Disconnect the ignition block and carefully cut the tape connecting your wire harness to the common harness. In order not to cling to the steering column switch during operation, it can also be pulled out of the connector.
On the metal steering column shroud, you will see a lock mount consisting of two clamps. They are tightened with 4 bolts with torn off heads (visible from the left side). While guiding the chisel on the semicircular hats, alternately loosen the tightening of these bolts with hammer blows.
Using round nose pliers, and then with your hands, unscrew all 4 bolts and remove the ignition switch.

Note. There are "dozens" in which not all bolt heads are torn off during assembly. This simplifies the matter, the fasteners are easily unscrewed by the head by 10 mm.

At the stage of disconnecting the connectors, it becomes possible to check the operability of the contact group by measuring the resistance, as described in the previous section. If you remove the lock due to lost keys and want to drive on, then after dismantling you need to do the following:

Find contacts with thick purple and blue wires (the last one with a black stripe) on the “mother” block, which remained hanging after the lock was turned off.
Connect these terminals with any conductor, and then the ignition will turn on.
The thick red wire leads to the starter. To start, its contact must be temporarily connected to the installed jumper. When the engine starts, the red wire must be disconnected.

Advice. It is more convenient to spy on the colors of the conductors on the harness of the removed device, and then find them on the "mother".

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order, but taking into account the following caveats:

do not tighten the fastening bolts until you have precisely adjusted the position of the lock on the casing so that the cladding plastic panel quietly falls into place;
before the final tightening of the bolts, make sure that the latch snaps into place when you turn the steering wheel, otherwise, correct the position of the lock;
the tightening torque must be such that the heads of the new bolts come off and round caps remain.

If you think that special fasteners are not an obstacle for hijackers, then you can screw in ordinary M6 bolts and tighten them carefully.

In the event that, as a result of diagnostics, a contact group malfunction is detected, you will still have to dismantle the ignition lock, since it will not be possible to get to it in any other way. After removing the element, disassemble it using the following algorithm:

Disconnect the backlight supply wires.

Remove the decorative plastic cover by releasing the 4 latches. Work carefully, because these clips are easy to break off, and buying a cover separately is a rather difficult task. Changing the entire castle because of her is impractical.

Bending back the 2 clips holding the contact group, remove it from the ignition switch.

Note. From the tool, you will additionally need a small flat screwdriver to bend the latches.The first step is to examine the status of your contacts. If they are darkened (oxidized), then clean the current-carrying surfaces with fine sandpaper P1000. Then put the group back in place and, without installing the lock, connect it to the vehicle's on-board power supply to check the functionality. If unsuccessful, the part must be replaced. The same will have to be done if the contacts are burnt or the group does not work without any external signs of malfunction.To change the core of the lock due to mechanical failure, remove it from the car as described above. Then follow this algorithm:

Insert the key into the slot and unscrew the 3 screws holding the 2 halves of the lock case with a Phillips screwdriver.

Separate the housing holding it with the key up. If, during disassembly, hold the lock in a different position and do not insert the key, then the insides will spill out and you will not understand how to put them back together. In this case, the ball with springs can be lost.

Remove the locking mechanism, consisting of two spring-loaded parts, pull out the spring itself.

After removing the key, carefully remove the core so that the ball with the spring is not lost (it stands on the side of the larva).

Before replacing the old cylinder, it is necessary to remove the return spring, since it is not sold with the new core. The spring is inside the part on the back side in the cocked state; in the same form, it must be installed on a new larva. Also, do not forget to get the thin spring from the hole where the ball is inserted.An important point. Remember that when replacing the core due to its breakage, the new key will no longer fit the door lock. There are 2 options: use two separate keys, or change the larva in the door at the same time. The last method becomes the only one applicable in the case when all keys are lost.When installing the core, you need to rearrange the spring for the ball into the hole and insert the part into the body. Then push in the larva as far as it will go, while simultaneously inserting the ball into the socket.After that, all that remains is to assemble the locking mechanism and twist the case with screws. At the end, check the operation of the ignition lock by turning the key to different positions.The video demonstrates how the mechanical part of the VAZ 2170 ignition lock (Lada Priora) is disassembled, but its design does not differ from the elements installed on VAZ 2110-2112 cars.

When the car does not react to the turn of the key in the lock, the engine does not start, the instruments do not turn on, or the key itself rotates with a jam, then with effort, repairing the ignition lock of the VAZ 2110 will solve the problem. There are two ways to solve such a problem, replacement and repair.
Do-it-yourself repair of the lock will cost less than replacement, however, replacement may be faster and, of course, more reliable. In any case, you should not jump to conclusions, first it is better to find out the cause of the malfunction.

The lock is a breaker that opens and closes contacts necessary for starting and operating the motor. Initially, it was intended to protect the car from being stolen.
Now, when hijackers are able to break even the most complex electronic locks and new generation anti-theft systems, it has lost its significance as an anti-theft device. The breakdown of this device creates a lot of trouble for drivers, and some even change it to a "start" button.
Consider how to diagnose the VAZ 2110 ignition lock, repair or replacement, decide for yourself.

To identify the malfunction of the lock, it is enough to test it (check it with a tester), for this:

Removing the terminals from the battery
Unscrew the cover around the steering column
Disconnect the lock connector
Insert the key and check with an ohmmeter the resistance of its contacts when switching modes 1, 2, 3 using a key
When the ignition switch is fully functional, the resistance of the contacts we have selected should be zero.

We check the resistance of the lock contacts with a tester

Consider the circuits that open and close at different positions of the key, in the photo below the table we give a diagram:

Wiring diagram of the vaz2110 lock

Pin 1 - 12V comes for micro switch of inserted key
Contact 2 - ground (zero) comes when the driver's door is opened
Pin 3 - 12 Volts goes to the starter (on pin 50)
Pin 4 - 12 Volts goes out after connecting the ignition (to pin 15)
Contact 5 - leaves 12 Volts when the key is plugged into the lock for 5 to the BSK contact
Contact 6 - 12V comes to the backlight of the lock cylinder
Pin 7 - 12V comes from the battery (on pin 30)
Pin 8 - not used

After we checked the state of the lock according to the electrical circuit, it is time to remove the ignition lock from the VAZ 2110, it is more convenient to repair the repair with the lock removed:

And so we have already removed the terminals from the battery, as well as plastic covers from the steering column (for this, unscrewing the fastening screws from the bottom)
Disconnect under the steering switches (to do this, just flip the latches) and take a simple tool - a hammer, chisel and pliers
For greater safety, the bolts holding the ignition switch have sheared heads
Therefore, you will have to unscrew them with a chisel and hammer.

We unscrew the bolts of the lock using a chisel and a hammer

To replace the backlight bulb:

Disconnect the connector
Remove the bulb holder using small pliers

To replace a contact group:

We remove the latches with a screwdriver
Then we remove the entire contact group

To change the micro switch:

You need to unscrew three screws using a Phillips screwdriver
Remove the rod
Squeeze out the retainer
We take out the micro switch

We remind you that the ignition lock has its own catalog number 2110-3704005 or KZ-881, in case you buy a new one. After repair, we screw everything back in the reverse order, we recommend screwing the lock with bolts having tear-off heads, so as not to simplify the task for the hijackers.

Sometimes troubles arise when the key turns poorly or does not fit well into the lock.
The problem is solved by replacing the larva, the price of which is less than the full cost of the complete lock, you will need for this:

Hammer
Pliers
Chisel
Thin drill and drill
Phillips screwdriver
Fine watch screwdriver
New maggot with keys

Our instructions will help you to replace the lock cylinder without any problems:

The ignition module is an electronic analogue of the distributor (see VAZ distributor device: the difference between contact and contactless ignition systems and ignition timing adjustment) and the ignition coil. A faulty module can fail at the wrong moment, according to the famous law of meanness.
Its verification and troubleshooting will take no more than an hour, but it will allow you to determine in time the approach of serious problems.

The main symptom of a module malfunction is the absence of a spark in one or several cylinders at once.
In this case, the engine troit, or does not start at all
The second common phenomenon is a failure in the timing of the ignition cycle, due to which the coordinated interaction of the piston and gas distribution system with the module is impossible.
There are several methods for troubleshooting a module.

This method is most suitable for testing the module in the "field" conditions.
However, it does require at least one new spark plug on hand in your vehicle's stock:That's all, we wish you success in self-repair and troubleshooting.To start the VAZ 2110 engine, an ignition lock is used, a malfunction of which completely paralyzes the operation of the entire car. In addition to starting the engine, the ignition lock serves as an additional protection against theft, since to activate it, you must use a key that only the owner has. The lock also blocks the steering wheel from turning in the absence of a key in it, which does not allow rolling or towing the car. Of course, the lock is not capable of providing complete protection, but it can delay intruders, which is sometimes decisive for saving the car. The essence of the ignition lock is to close and open the contacts of the car's electrical system. It is quite reliable and has a long resource, but sometimes it needs to be replaced for a number of reasons:- breakage of the contact group of the lock;- mechanical damage;- loss of the ignition key.If the reason for replacing the ignition lock of the VAZ 2110 is the loss of a key or damage to the lock when attempting to steal, then there is no need to completely change the entire mechanism. You can simply purchase a larva - a part of the lock into which the key is directly inserted. The larva is sold together with a new set of ignition keys, which are needed to turn the larva. Thus, it is possible to carry out repairs without a complete replacement, which will cost a little less.When replacing the cylinder, it should be noted that in this case the old key will be used for the doors and trunk, and a new one for the ignition. Therefore, if this is unacceptable, then you need to buy a new lock with an additional set of larvae for the doors and trunk, which will allow you to open everything with one key.If the reason for the replacement is a breakdown of the contact group of the lock, then the new larva will not help and the entire mechanism must be changed. On average, the price for a new castle fluctuates around 800 - 1000 rubles, and a little more with additional larvae. Replacement with a service station will cost an average of another 500 rubles. But if the car does not start, then it will not be possible to get to the service station on its own, then you can carry out an independent replacement.And now about how to change the ignition lock for a VAZ 2110. The replacement process is quite simple and does not require special skills. The main thing is to do everything carefully so as not to confuse anything, because otherwise it will not be possible to start the engine. For work, you will need the simplest set of tools that can be found in the trunk of every owner of the VAZ 2110. It includes:- Phillips screwdriver;- box or open-end wrench for 10;- pliers;- thin chisel.The first step is to disconnect the terminals on the battery to avoid a short circuit. Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws holding the lower plastic steering column cover. After removing the lower and upper parts of the casing, the steering column will open, on which the lock is fixed with a special bracket.For easy access to the bracket, you must also disconnect the left lever to switch turns. It is removed in just a few seconds, for this you need to disconnect the plug with wires from it and pull the switch itself to the left in the direction of the driver's door. The switch will come out in a special groove, so there is no need to unscrew anything. The plug must be pulled out carefully so that the wires do not fall out of it, which will lead to their mixing.After getting rid of these parts, you can easily disconnect the ignition switch connector that connects the wires. Next, there will be a rougher work, which consists in unscrewing the bolts tightening the bracket with the lock on the steering column. Since these bolts have a round head without edges to increase security against theft, which cannot be unscrewed so easily, you will need to apply cunning and force.To do this, resting at an angle on the head of the bolt with a chisel, you need to hit it. The angle must be set so that the bolt rotates counterclockwise. The chisel must be sharp so that it can cut into the surface of the bolt head and provide a secure engagement.How the engine cushions are replaced: for the example of the VAZ 2110, see here. What are the reasons for the high fuel consumption? In our article Since the limited space under the steering wheel does not allow for a good swing to hit, it will be easier to use a heavy hammer. The work is delicate enough and does not tolerate haste, because you can miss and damage the plastic with a hammer blow. When the bolts are loose, they can be turned with pliers.After removing the old lock, a new one is installed in its place, complete with clamping bolts. These bolts have a breakaway head and should be tightened until they fall off. Do not use ordinary bolts, as they are easy to remove and it may take less time for intruders to steal a car.Before installation, you must turn the key in the lock to the "I ”, which will allow the steering shaft lock retainer to enter the housing and not interfere with installation. After installing a new lock, do not completely tighten the bolts immediately, as you need to make sure that its body is in the correct place and the locking mechanism works.Next, you need to connect the wires through the connector that was removed from the old lock.What are autobuffers and what are they for: we find out together? Read more in our articleIf only the larva needs to be replaced, then you need to remove the lock from the steering column as described above. This process is a little more complicated and time consuming, but it saves money on the purchase of a new ignition switch.From the side of the tightening bracket, you need to unscrew the screws that connect the two halves of the lock case. After removing them, the housing can be divided into two parts. The front part hides the larva, so you need to pull it out. The new larva does not have some small parts in the kit, such as a return spring and a retainer ball, so they must be transferred from the old one. The return spring is located at the bottom of the larva and is immediately invisible.After installation in the new cylinder, the spring must be cocked to the same position in which it was in the old one.Having fixed the new larva in the body identically to the old one, you can screw on the rear cover of the lock. When the mechanism is assembled, then you need to check it by inserting the key and rotate in all positions. If the operation is satisfactory, the lock can be refitted following the instructions for replacing the lock.When buying a separate larva, tear-off bolts are not included with it. Therefore, if you cannot get them, then you can use M6 bolts with a length of 20 mm. But in this case, you can always quickly twist them, which will reduce the safety of your car. Of course, in the future, if it is necessary to re-repair or replace the ignition lock, it will be easier to work and the chisel will no longer be needed.

Video (click to play).

Thus, for such a replacement, there is no need to contact a car service, since everything can be done independently. The main thing is to carefully approach this issue so as not to confuse anything, especially when it comes to replacing the larva, since you need to rearrange several small parts, including a spring and a ball, which can be dropped and lost. And do not forget to check the functionality of the mechanism before tightening the break-off bolts.