As a rule, the clutch of dozens, like other front-wheel drive VAZ cars, is carried out without removing the gearbox.
Complete dismantling of the gearbox is necessary in cases where we have problems with shifting gears or with a gearbox. Dismantling the box completely, the work is almost doubled, you have to drain the oil, remove the axle shafts and carry out a lot of other work ... Therefore, if we are not worried about the checkpoint, we will not take it off.
It is most convenient to change the clutch on a lift, inspection pit or on an overpass. You can cope in the field, but this, of course, is inconvenient and time-consuming.
For work, we will need a standard set of tools, a jack, several wooden spacers and a mandrel, without which it will not be possible to install the driven disc. This mandrel follows the shape of the transmission input shaft and centers the disc in relation to the flywheel.
We remove the "minus" of the battery and the connector from the mass air flow sensor.
Unscrew the top starter bolt.
We unscrew the bolt 1 of the starter mounting.
We remove the stretch along with the lever.
We unscrew the jet thrust bolts.
We remove the control drive rod.
We substitute the chock so that the engine does not rip off the hoses for the interior heater.
We take the box and put it on the floor.
We change the bearing (1) unambiguously, the springs (2) and linings (3) are worn out - a disc for replacement, the surface of the basket (4) will survive one more disc.
At the same time, we check the condition of the flywheel.
Next, we act according to the situation. If the entire clutch assembly needs to be replaced, unscrew the basket from the flywheel and install a new kit ... For the correct installation of the driven disc, we need the mandrel, which we have already talked about. When installing, it is necessary to tighten the mounting bolts of the new basket, then insert the mandrel into the driven disk and get into the flywheel. Thus, we maintain the alignment of the input shaft of the gearbox and the flywheel.
And only then can the clutch basket mounting bolts be tightened. Assembly is carried out upside-down.
Good day to all. I will describe my history associated with the replacement of the clutch, or rather how it "ended" and how it was budgetary and successfully resolved.
VIDEO We will call several service stations and found out that the price of replacing the clutch is high (about 3500 rubles). I decided that this was not for me and began to look for a suitable hole to replace the clutch with my own hands. You can, of course, do this on a jack, but I did not come across such a repair and did not want to complicate the work. Found a pit (thanks to a friend). We chose a day and started replacing. I must say right away that the photos turned out to be not very good, but I will try to describe all the ambushes and subtleties that you may have to face.
First of all, they drove into the pit and removed the engine protection. There should be no problems here. All the bolts were unscrewed with a bang. The oil can be drained to reduce the weight of the box. We will not pull the drive out of it, so it is not necessary to drain.
Loosen the front wheel mountings. Unlock both hub nuts and unscrew. It is better not to put the old ones back. Buy new ones. They cost about 70 rubles.
Raise the vehicle and place blocks or trestles under it. Remove both front wheels.
DO NOT perform work on the jack without reliable belaying.
Remove the clutch cable from the plug and unscrew it from the bracket that is on the box. You will need two keys for 17. For convenience, it is better to remove the battery.
Disconnect the speed sensor connector.
Remove the air filter casing after disconnecting the chip from the mass air flow sensor.
Remove the bolt securing the ignition module to the gearbox and another bolt nearby. It is one of those that connect the gearbox to the engine.
Unscrew the nut on the starter that holds the positive lead. Disconnect the terminal from the traction relay.
Unscrew the upper and lower starter mounting bolts, then remove it.
For prophylaxis, bendix can be treated with a small amount of lithol and a similar lubricant.
There is another bolt at the top that holds the gearbox. It is located in the area of the thermostat. Fuel pipes cover it.
This completes the work in the upper part.
Many write that it is necessary to remove the "saber", but we went the other way. They unscrewed the ball from the hub and the bolt that connects the lever and the stabilizer. Then they simply bent the lever down. This method is suitable if the pit allows and you are not going to completely get the gearbox.
We take the left hub and take out the drive.
We unscrew the flywheel protective shield. There are three bolts. I don't know why, but they were different for me. Two were unscrewed with a head by 10 and the third with an eight. I still did not understand.))) Can someone tell me why this is so?
Then disconnect the shift rod by loosening one bolt. It is recommended that you mark the thrust position in advance to make it easier to adjust the speeds later. I followed this advice, but on subsequent configuration, for some reason it did not work. This is such additional information)))
Now loosen one gearbox mounting bolt, which is located under the starter (it has already been removed), but not completely.
And one more bolt is located in the area of the right drive. We did not notice it during disassembly and for a long time tried to understand why the box did not come out. Tear off this bolt too, but do not unscrew it completely. This required a good extension cord and a reliable head.
Now you need to take a jack and place it under the engine. When we start unscrewing the pillows, the motor will remain on only one and may fall, breaking the heating hoses. Place a small board between the jack and the engine to avoid damaging the crankcase. It must be installed closer to the checkpoint. It is also better to put a block under the box, just in case.
When the engine is securely fixed, remove the pillows.
First, remove the rear support. You can simply unscrew it from the body. It rests on two studs, but this method is suitable if you are sure that the nuts will be easily unscrewed and will not break.We did not experiment, we did this: There is a bolt on the pillow itself, it looks towards the passenger compartment. It must be loosened and unscrewed a little. Then disconnect the pillow bracket from the gearbox and take it to the side as far as possible. Maybe this is the wrong way, but so the pins remained intact, and we are happy)))
Now we unscrew the left cushion of the box. There are two nuts, one at the top and one at the bottom. The mount is similar to a threaded stud on both sides. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture.
Next, one needs to hold the box from below, and the other unscrew it to the end and remove the bolts. One near the starter and the other near the right hand drive.
Now the two of you need to move the box away from the engine and lower it onto the bent lever. Do this carefully without damaging the pipes and wiring. The box is heavy, about 30 kg if I'm not mistaken. We had enough))).
When you move the checkpoint, make sure that its guides do not fall out. They are located in the lower gearbox mounting holes. They look like tubes.
The box will move back about 10 - 15 cm. This is enough to replace the basket and clutch disc, as well as the bearing and fork.
When we pushed the box aside, we saw that three basket petals fell inside. It immediately became clear that it was under replacement.
Let's start removing the basket. It is screwed to the flywheel with six bolts of 8. We unscrewed them with great effort. I had to use a lever. Secure the flywheel against turning before unscrewing it. To do this, you need a screwdriver or something similar.
Having unscrewed the basket and took out the disk, they decided to change both.
When installing the basket and clutch disc, it is necessary to use a simulator of the input shaft. This is necessary in order for the parts to stand evenly. Such a centering can be bought in a store for 100 rubles. It will also work from a “penny”.
When installing the box, it is important to get into the hole of the engine with a hairpin that stands on it. It is located in the area of the right-hand drive. When we installed the checkpoint, we did not take this fact into account and suffered for a long time turning the checkpoint.
When the box is engaged with the engine, tighten the mounting bolts, but not completely. They need to be stretched when the box sits on the pillows so that no displacement occurs.
In the further stages of the assembly, there should be no problems.
Do not forget to lock the hub nut, adjust the clutch pedal and rocker.
VIDEO I hope this material helps someone when replacing the gearbox. There is practically no difference in the repair of VAZ 2110 or 2114 cars. They are all frets)). Frankly, I thought it would be more difficult to change the clutch, but the main thing is to start, and there is nowhere to go). If possible, try to repair your car yourself. This is both saving money and gaining experience. Good luck to all.
I did not completely remove the longitudinal linkage, but only unscrewed the ball link at the point where the lever was attached to the body. Take it a little to the side and the box will go down well.
We unscrew the 6 bolts under the head by “eight” and take out the basket with the disc
The clutch basket was heavily (well, or so it seems to me) sharpened by the release bearing, deep "cuts" were on the petals
We look at the clutch disc
My choice fell on the LUK clutch kit
I had a Kraft firm
To my surprise, the disc was very lively, I'll leave it just in case.
Well, that's it, we put everything in the reverse order. And yes, centered the clutch disc with a plastic sleeve
We loosen the wheel bolts, raise the car on a jack and substitute the "goats"
Remove the left wheel, unscrew the two bolts securing the lower ball joint
We remove the “negative” terminal from the accumulator, remove the plug from the mass air flow sensor, loosen the clamp fastening the corrugation to the mass air flow sensor, remove the air filter housing from the car.
Remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork. Loosen the two nuts securing the cable to the bracket on the gearbox (hereinafter referred to as “KP”).
1. Unscrew the bolt securing the MH to the gearbox housing. 2. Unscrew the first bolt securing the gearbox.
You will need a good wrench with a 19 head and possibly a pipe-knob. There is another gearbox mounting bolt nearby.
This nut must be remembered to loosen
Unscrew the upper starter bolt.
We remove the connector from the speed sensor, unscrew the speedometer cable.
We remove the longitudinal stretch together with the lever.
1. Unscrew the lower starter bolt. 2. Unscrew the third gearbox mounting bolt. There is one more gearbox fastening nut in the area of the right inner CV joint.
On dozens, unscrew the two reactive thrust bolts.
1. Loosen the nut on the clamp of the gearbox control drive rod and remove this rod from the gearbox. 2. Unscrew the two rear cushion nuts.
First, it is necessary to substitute the chock under the engine, otherwise it may sink too low and tear off the hoses of the interior heater.
Carefully move the gearbox away from the engine and place it on the floor.
The gearbox hangs on the semi-axles. The advantage of this method is that there is no need to drain the oil from the gearbox.
1. It is better to replace the clutch release bearing. 2. If the springs dangle in their place, then change the disc unambiguously. 3. The pads are worn down to rivets. 4. There is little wear on the surface of the basket, it will outlive one more disc.
On the petals, in the place where the release bearing touches, there is little wear. The petals are normal.
The surface of the flywheel is not badly worn. We assemble in the reverse order. To install the clutch basket and disc, it is necessary to use the gearbox input shaft simulator.
Removal and installation of the gearbox, replacement of the VAZ clutch. Recommendation Remove the transmission with an assistant.
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Hello, dear car enthusiasts, auto mechanics, locksmiths and simply interested ones, on our auto portal. Resource> made for you and we will try to help you repair your car.
In this publication, we will talk about adjusting and repairing the clutch in the VAZ 2110/2111/2112. If it is broken and you want to try to replace it, then our video tip will come in handy. What difficulties may be encountered while repairing it?
VIDEO
If you decide to replace the clutch with your own hands in a car model such as the VAZ 2110/2111/2112, then it is completely easy to carry out all the repairs. For a complete understanding of the sequence of repair and replacement, watch our video instruction to independently replace the clutch in the VAZ 2110-2111-2112.
If you feel that the clutch in the car of these brands has begun to junk a little and does not work the same way as before, starts to slip when you press the gas, or "grab" at the very end of your pedal travel, it's time to think about repairing and replacing the clutch his "iron horse". Remember, the above signs require you to react immediately and take quick action, in particular, the clutch disc must be repaired or replaced. If the repairs are not carried out in a timely manner and the wear of the clutch continues further, all this can ultimately lead to imbalance and damage to the flywheel.
VAZ 2110, 2111 and 2112 clutches can be repaired and replaced in a pit or on a lift. Among other things, such repairs require the removal of the gearbox, as well as partial disassembly of the front suspension of the car. All this indicates that this process cannot be done independently, and any motorist and mechanic will need help, since it is quite difficult to cope with this kind of task alone.
If you want to repair the clutch of your VAZ 2110 or other brands of a similar design yourself, see the detailed replacement instructions in the video.
VIDEO
The clutch is an important and integral part of the transmission system. Therefore, if you have suspicions about the inoperability of this mechanism, then it is better to replace it immediately.Today you will learn how the VAZ 2110 clutch is replaced, how much it costs at a service station and what needs to be taken into account when changing this mechanism.
If during operation at least one element of the mechanism came out, be it a clutch basket, a release bearing or a driven pulley, then it is better not to save money and replace the device completely. It is also worth considering when changing one imported mechanism to another, since the differences can be serious.
This question is asked by every owner of a VAZ 2110 when it becomes necessary to choose a mechanism. Below are the results of device reviews by experts in the Russian automotive market. It is also worth noting that in the process of research, the most popular manufacturers among domestic motorists were considered.
Clutch disc in place of installation
Actually, any of the above clutches is suitable for VAZ 2110 cars. For example, "Luke" can not generate maximum torque, so the engine power while driving will be underestimated. Krafttek is a fairly reliable mechanism, time-tested, although to install it you will have to buy some elements.
Apparently, Valeo is the best option.
It is worth noting that this unit also has many positive reviews on the Internet from other motorists. But keep in mind, if there is no lubricant and a CD with installation instructions in the package for this mechanism, then this is a fake. Having installed such a device, be prepared for the fact that it may fail after 5 thousand kilometers.
Consider the cost of each individual mechanism for VAZ 2110 cars.
Kraftek. Today the price for a set of Kraft devices is 1,800 hryvnia in Ukraine and about 6 thousand rubles in Russia.
Luke. At the moment, the cost of the original in the Ukrainian car market is about 1,550 hryvnia (5 thousand rubles);
Valeo. The cost is about 1 600 hryvnia in Ukraine and about 5-6 thousand in Russia;
VAZINTERSERVICE. Its cost also averages about 1,500 hryvnia in the Ukrainian car market and about 4,500 rubles in the Russian one;
Pilenga. Is the cheapest option presented. Its price at the moment is about 700 hryvnia in Ukraine and almost 2 thousand rubles in Russia.
Depending on the region where you live, the prices for installing the mechanism may vary. However, on average in Russia, installing a clutch by hands of specialists will cost a motorist at least 1,500 rubles. As a rule, the average price for an installation fluctuates around 2 thousand rubles. In Moscow, the prices for installing the device can range from 4 to 6 thousand rubles.
Sorry, there are currently no polls available.
Accordingly, in Ukraine, for the installation of the mechanism, specialists at the service station will take at least 500 hryvnia, but the driver must be prepared for the fact that he will have to pay a little more for the replacement. At Kiev service stations, craftsmen can request up to two thousand hryvnia for installation.
Why pay if you can do all the work on changing the transmission system component yourself? Of course, if you do not have experience in this, then it is better to entrust this matter to specialists. But if you follow the instructions, then there should be no problems with the replacement.
a new clutch for your car;
a set of wrenches, socket wrenches are also required;
screwdriver;
crowbar;
jack;
bricks.
The request returned an empty result.
So, if you decide to change the clutch device with your own hands, but do not want to bother with dismantling the gearbox at the same time, then we will consider the replacement process without removing the box. Let's get started:
This video shows the process of changing the clutch mechanism in a VAZ 2110 car with your own hands.
Owners of a domestic car VAZ 2110 are often faced with whistling in the clutch caused by the release bearing of the assembly.Moreover, this is a problem not only of "dozens", but also of other cars from different manufacturers, the clutch design of which implies the use of this element. Therefore, replacing the clutch release with a VAZ 2110 is not at all an exceptional problem. But it needs to be solved.
Release bearing - this is not the weakest link in the clutch system, but for some reason it is he that causes problems and troubles.
Some car owners have gotten used to the whistle and simply ignore it. But this cannot go on for a long time, since an untimely solution to the problem can lead to even more complex and expensive repairs. If you start the situation, then you will not be able to get by with a simple replacement.
The clutch is used to act on the petal spring of the clutch basket. It is also called diaphragm, so don't be confused if you hear such a designation. Due to this effect, the driven disc is disconnected from the flywheel and the basket pressure disc. This disengages the clutch.
If the squeezer is faulty, this can lead to different consequences:
The clutch fork will be damaged;
The integrity of the clutch basket spring petals will be violated;
The guide bushings are deformed.
VIDEO
In order not to pay twice, or even three times, promptly react to the appearance of a whistle in the clutch and try to quickly take action.
In some cases, noise occurs when the engine is started, and it persists until the car warms up, after which it disappears. In other cases, noise returns with every attempt to disengage the clutch.
The worst option is grinding. Such a sound indicates that the element is rubbing against the petal spring, a development will form on the petals. If you are "lucky" to face such a situation, there is no time. Replacements need to be made quickly.
VIDEO
By the way, it makes no sense to repair it. Release bearings cannot be repaired, so replacement is the only solution.
To remove this device, you will have to perform a number of consecutive steps.
Raise the car or drive it into a hole to gain access to the underside of the car.
Remove the gearbox with the appropriate tools.
Press out the special latches from the release bearing.
Remove the element from the gearbox shaft.
Squeeze the locking tabs to remove the spring clip.
After that, it will not be difficult for you to remove the damaged release bearing from the clutch.
The complexity of the process lies in the fact that in preparation for removing the release bearing, it will be necessary to dismantle several assemblies and mechanisms, such as:
Accumulator battery;
Clutch cable;
Air filter box with air flow sensor;
Upper gearbox fixing bolts;
The nut responsible for fixing the starter.
VIDEO
When you have completed the entire range of dismantling work, you can proceed to the final stage - the installation of a new component.
The first thing to do is check the condition of the new clutch release bearing. For some reason, many car owners forget to make sure that the bearing that replaced the old one is really good. It's easy to check. Rotate the bearing, jerk it in different directions. If there is no seizure during rotation, and there is no play, then you bought a really serviceable, good release bearing.
Insert the new part into the sleeve. This must be done so that the protruding part of the inner ring is directed towards the coupling.
After inserting the element, secure it with the holders.
Before inserting a new release bearing onto the bushing (guide), do not forget to lubricate it with grease. The lubricant layer should be thin, do not overdo it.
Secure the clutch and bearing using a lynch pin.
Put the gearbox and other dismantled items in their rightful places.
The whole repair process is completed by a clutch adjustment.
VIDEO
Do not ignore the most useful things that you can only use when repairing your beloved VAZ 2110 - manual. It describes in detail literally everything that a car owner needs to know. With it, you can perform even complex repairs, the cost of which at a specialized service station will be prohibitive.
Such a thing as the clutch plays an important role in the operation of the gearbox of every car. After all, it is this that is the link between the engine and the gearbox. The clutch takes over all the loads that arise when torque is transmitted from the internal combustion engine to the transmission. In this regard, this element tends to quickly fail. If worn, this part requires immediate replacement. And today we will look at how the clutch is replaced on VAZ-2110 cars.
The most likely symptoms of clutch wear are:
Engine power is lost.
Shifting gears with slipping or a characteristic crunch or jerk. You can also notice the difference in the efforts applied for this (you need to push the lever even more).
Spontaneous shutdown (knocking out) of gears. This can happen with both first and fifth speed.
Vibration while pressing the pedal before changing gears.
In order to replace the clutch on a VAZ-2110 car successfully and quickly, you do not need to be a professional mechanic and purchase expensive tools. All you need is a jack, a pry bar, and a set of open-end and socket wrenches. With all this set of tools, the clutch disc is replaced.
So let's get to work. To begin with, we unscrew the fastening bolts of the left wheel, and then jack up the front part of the "ten" and put the supports behind. Next, we remove the wheel and unscrew the mounting bolts of the ball joint. We open the hood, remove the negative terminal from the battery and remove the mass air flow sensor. To do this, it is necessary to loosen the corrugation clamp. We take out the air filter.
Next, remove the clutch cable from the fork. We unscrew the nuts securing the first element to the bracket on the gearbox.
By the way, if you need to replace the clutch cable, the VAZ-2110 can signal this to you with a pedal "hanging" in the floor during gear shifting.
Unscrew the bolt connecting the starter and transmission. We take out the gearbox fastening screw I. We do the same with the II bolt. We release the nut and the upper bolt of the starter mounting and remove the connector from the speed sensor. After that, you can unscrew the speedometer cable. Next, we take out the longitudinal extension, paired with the lever, and unscrew the lower starter mounting bolt. The next step is the III gearbox screw - we also extract it. Next, we find another nut (it is located in the area of the right hinge of equal angular velocities). We also take it out.
After that, we unscrew the 2 fastening bolts of the jet thrust. Unscrew the nut on the gearbox control drive rod clamp. That's not all. Next, we take out the jet thrust itself from the gearbox, place an emphasis under the internal combustion engine and unscrew the bolts securing the rear airbags. Now we move the transmission away from the engine and carefully lower it to the floor. It should hang on the axle shafts.
Now we look at and evaluate the degree of disc wear. At the same time, it is recommended to check the clutch release bearing and, if possible, also change it. Sometimes the car needs a basket replacement. But this should be done only if the petals are in poor condition. That's it, the replacement of the clutch on the VAZ-2110 was successful. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. By the way, motorists recommend diagnosing the clutch every 80 thousand kilometers. Therefore, in order to avoid such troubles and possible gearbox malfunctions, it is better to determine and eliminate the breakdown in advance.
In this case, the VAZ-2110 also undergoes the dismantling of the checkpoint. First you need to remove the release bearing.
If the lever or fork legs are badly worn at the point of contact with the clutch, the fork must be replaced. In this case, the worn-out part is dismantled, and then a new one is pressed into its place, and all the way to the stop. Before installing the part, grease the plastic and metal sleeve with grease. Further, the installation of the device is carried out in the reverse order, similar to the removal. Please note that the protrusion on the plastic sleeve must fit exactly into the groove on the clutch housing, and the petals must securely fix the installed part, preventing it from falling out.
So, we found out how to replace the clutch with our own hands on a VAZ-2110 car. Knowing these rules, you will no longer need expensive services of service centers.
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The clutch is one of the most important components of any car, because it acts as a link between the transmission and the engine, which takes over all the loads when transmitting torque. Obviously, this fact cannot but cause all sorts of clutch breakdowns that require immediate replacement of this part. Consider how the clutch is replaced, using the example of a VAZ 2110 car, and when.
The most common malfunctions of the "tens" clutch are:
the smell of the clutch disc friction linings;
the presence of extraneous sounds when the clutch is engaged (clicks, etc.);
problems with the inclusion of gears;
clutch slippage;
vibration when pressing the pedal;
unreasonable increase in pedal travel;
the presence of noticeable jerks when the vehicle starts moving.
All of them require immediate replacement of the defective part.
Step 1. A place is being looked for for a comfortable repair work. It must have a pit, overpass or lift. If this is not the case, you can simply, by installing supports under the rear wheels, raise the front of the car.
Step 2. The negative terminal is removed from the battery (to protect against a short circuit in the wiring during repair work). The air filter housing is dismantled, thereby opening up access to the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine.
Step 3. The protective cap is removed from the left wheel, the bolts of its fastening are torn off with the help of a chisel or core. The wheel is dismantled.
Step 4. Dismantle the motor protection, if any. The extension is unscrewed from the crab (mounting bracket), 2 bolts of the ball joint, the front suspension arm and all this is removed.
Step 5. The flow meter is removed, and after loosening the clamp holding the corrugation, the air filter.
Step 6. By loosening the 2 securing nuts of the clutch cable on the shift bracket, this cable is removed from the clutch fork.
Step 7. Unscrew the nut that holds the starter at the gearbox, and the bolt of the box itself.
Step 8. Another gearbox bolt is unscrewed using an amplifier pipe and a 19 head.
Step 9. The upper starter mounting bolt is released. Having removed the connector from the speed sensor, the speedometer cable is unscrewed.
Step 10. The longitudinal brace and the gearshift lever are removed.
Step 11.Unscrew the lower starter mounting bolt, the third gearbox mounting bolt and the nut from the right CV joint.
Step 12. Unscrew the reactive thrust mounting bolts (2 pcs.).
Step 13. Having released the nut on the gearbox control drive rod clamp, this rod is dismantled.
Step 14. Supporting the engine from below (so that in the event of a strong lowering of the engine, the hoses do not break), unscrew the nuts securing the rear cushion. Moving the box away from the engine as accurately as possible, the gearbox falls to the floor (hangs on the axle shafts).
Step 15. Remove the old clutch basket and install a new one.
Step 16. Assembly of all dismantled elements is carried out in reverse order.
VIDEO body and external tuning VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
car audio in VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
suspension VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
electrical and electronics VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
useful articles VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
Assembly and troubleshooting of the checkpoint VAZ 2110, 2111, 2112
starter
gear starter
ignition module
steering rack
steering damper
glove compartment illumination
interior plafond
illumination of the SAUO unit
rear bumper
front bumper
bumper RS
cylinder head gasket
valve lapping
Video (click to play).
