Vaz 2112 DIY front suspension repair

In detail: vaz 2112 do-it-yourself front suspension repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The cars of the "Tenth Family" were produced by the VAZ plant in the early 2000s. These include the Lada-112 hatchbacks, the design of which is considered the most successful. On the VAZ-2112, the front suspension is arranged in the same way as on station wagons or sedans. And it is arranged more complicated than on all cars of the Logan family. The reason is the absence of triangular levers. But in the VAZ-2110 (2112) suspension, you can customize literally everything, and for Logan we only set up the toe.

Sometimes the suspension assembly is tuned. But what is shown in the video, it is better not to repeat. We look ...

The photo shows what the right disc suspension looks like. It is easy to recognize the telescopic support 6 as well as the lever 3. Both of these parts form the basis of the assembly.

Let's list the main details in ascending order: 1 - anti-roll bar; 2 - stabilizer link; 3 - suspension arm; 4 - ball bearing; 5 - steering fist; 6 - suspension rack; 7 - stretching (saber); 8 - brace bracket.

Parts 7 and 3 could form a "monolith". But even then they would be mounted on hinges, and in the VAZ-2112 (and 2110) suspension structure, we will find these hinges plus one more - it connects parts 3 and 7.

The pivot arm is not shown in the photo, but here it is attached to the shock absorber, that is, it is part of it.

Everything that is indicated by the number 6 above consists of several parts. Let's list them.

The numbers indicate the elements:

2108-2901056 - metric nut M14;
2110-2902760 - a cup;
10519601 - washer;
16105021 - self-locking nut M12;
2110-2902816 - bump stop;
2110-2905003 and 2110-2905002 - shock absorber left and right;
2110-2902826 - frame;
2108-2901052 - washer for the screw;
15540931 - screw М12 (up to 07.2001);
2108-2901051 - bottom screw (after 07.2001);
2110-2901054 - cap;
2110-2902842 - washer;
2110-2902830 - screw;
2110-2901032 - washer;
2110-2902820 - upper support (pillow);
2112-2902712 - suspension spring;
2112-2901031 and 2112-2901030 - rack left and right;
2110-2905681 - anther;
2108-2901050 - eccentric screw;
16104111 - self-locking nut M8;
2108-2902840 (-01, -02) or 2110-2902840 (-01) - support bearing.

Video (click to play).

Some station wagons and sedans have struts 2110-2901030 and 2110-2901031. But then springs 2108-2902712 are used. But the parts marked with the number 21 are interchangeable.

Let's take a look at one important assembly with a minimum number of parts.

Steering knuckle with hub bearing

By the appearance of the knot, it is clear to what and how it is attached. Let's list the articles:

2108-3103020-01 (-02) - wheel bearing;
2108-3103068 - sealing ring;
2108-3001060 - antisplash pad (internal);
2108-3103012 - hub;
2108-3103079 - bearing element (washer);
2108-3103032 - circlip securing the bearing;
2108-3001061 - antisplash pad (external);
2110-3103065 - decorative cap (after 01.2003);
2108-3103065 - decorative cap (up to 01.2003);
2108-3001015 and 2108-3001014 - left and right fist;
2108-3103061 - hub antisplash;
14044271 - self-locking nut M20.

The lower arm holds the ball pin (part 2). A steering knuckle is attached to the casing of the ball joint. It is absent in the drawing, but fastening screws 15 are shown.

Levers with saber guides

2108-2904046 - rear hinge of the saber;
2108-2904185-01 - ball pin;
10517070 - springy washer;
2110-2904192 - ball joint assembly;
15541231 - screw M12;
2108-2904045 - thrust washer;
16105011 - self-locking nut M12;
2108-2904040 - swivel joint;
2108-2904020 - lever arm;
2108-2904270 - saber or stretching;
12638601 - washer;
2110-2904070 - casing;
2110-2904076 - spacer sleeve;
12574921 - self-locking nut M16;
15970730 - screw M10;
2108-2904225 - spacer washer (maximum number - 4 pcs.);
16101521 - metric nut M12;
10516870 - springy washer.

The brackets for attaching the sabers are welded to the transverse tube. That is, on the VAZ-2112, the front suspension contains a "cross member", and it cannot be excluded from the design.

Cross pipe and fittings

2112-2904400 - transverse pipe;
2108-2904050 - saber front hinge;
12574921 - nut M16;
2110-2904436 - cover cap;
2108-2904054 - front hinge washer (up to 12.2000);
2110-2904054 - the same (after 12.2000);
2108-2904225 - spacer washer (maximum number - 2 pcs.);
2110-2904055 - washer;
2110-2904312 - screw.

Some sedans and station wagons have a transverse tube 2110-2904400 (-01).

The stabilizer is an important part, but you can ride without it. The absence of a stabilizer is not a reason to take the car out of service.

Stabilizer bar and tie rod

The unit consists of a rod and two rods. Items:

2110-2906050 - thrust or rack;
2110-2906010 - assembly unit;
10516870 - springy washer;
2110-2906040 - pillow;
10519601 - washer;
2108-2906042 - bracket;
2110-2906016 - barbell;
2110-2906078 - upper thrust bushing;
15971321 - screw M10;
12164711 - nut M10;
16104111 - self-locking nut M8;
2108-2906079 - lower thrust bushing.

To get rid of the stabilizer, remove the parts listed.

As mentioned above, the arm and the brace can form a "monolith". The appearance of such a part is shown in the photo.

Monolithic wishbone

The part is attached to the body on hinges. And at the "bottom" point of the triangle, a ball finger is fixed.

Every motorist understands how important the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 plays. But this unit may have certain problems, typical malfunctions, which almost everyone who has more or less little experience in car repair is capable of knowing and fixing. Therefore, today we will talk specifically about the front suspension of the "tens".Wheels are attached to the front suspension, the unit provides amortization of the "front end" of the car, is responsible for stability while driving, wheel alignment, camber, toe-in.The front suspension device of the VAZ 2110 is quite complicated, but any of you can figure it out. The main thing here is to arm yourself with an instruction manual, and also to understand the essence of the main angles.The main element of the front suspension is considered hydraulic telescopic rack , which is simply irreplaceable in the issue of depreciation, ensuring a comfortable ride on the car. The car will not shake too much, passing every hole will not turn your trip into a nightmare.To change the camber, there is a strut in the front suspension. To be more precise, the steering knuckle and the top bolt, which has an eccentric washer and a belt, are responsible for this process.

Special springs;

Buffer to limit the compression stroke. On the VAZ 2110, this element is made of polyurethane;

Top support. It is attached to the post, to which, in turn, the mudguard is attached. Please note that only self-locking nuts are used for fixing. Therefore, when repairing, ordinary nuts will not work;

Bearing to ensure the rotation of the rack together with the wheels;

Shock absorbers with spring and plunger.

By the way, the VAZ 2110 front suspension cross member is a bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the center, it is attached to the body by means of a rubber cushion.

They should be considered separately, since the reasons for their appearance are different.

If you start to hear knocks coming from the front suspension, this could be due to several reasons:

The rack has certain faults;
Ties on the cross member, cushions are worn out or bolts are loose;
The attachment to the body was not strong enough;
The springs are out of order;
The hinges are worn out;
The rubber part of the suspension has broken its integrity. At the same time, the knock should be clear, like a blow of metal to metal;
Wheel alignment is out of balance.

If you hear not a knock, but a noise, then the causes of front suspension problems may be as follows:

The bolts responsible for attaching the anti-roll bar to the body are loose;

Rubber components have collapsed in the strut support;

The rubber pads of the tie or the rod are worn out;

The suspension spring has broken or broken its geometry;

The wheels are out of balance;

The compression stroke buffer has collapsed.

It is quite easy to understand the structure of the front suspension, as well as by ear or visually determine its malfunctions, despite the seeming complexity of the assembly. But the question should be approached carefully, periodically check the condition of the suspension, even if no noises, knocks or the behavior of the car on the road indicate its malfunction.

It is better to organize preventive maintenance for any car than to pay exorbitant prices for full repairs later. Like the disease, problems with the front suspension of the VAZ 2110 are best avoided on their approaches. It is cheaper, easier and more correct on the part of the car owner.We are glad to welcome all car enthusiasts, auto mechanics, locksmiths and simply interested ones to our car portal. The site> is made for you and we will try to help you repair your car.Today we will explain the repair and replacement of the front suspension in the VAZ 2110/2111/2112. If you have it broken or you just decided to replace it, then our video tip will certainly help. What difficulties await when checking it?

Diagram of the front suspension VAZ 2110 assembly

Let's talk about its device. The most important element of the front suspension is its strut (hydraulic telescopic) - irreplaceable in the amortization, that is, ensuring a comfortable ride, without much shaking (as far as possible) over the bumps and bumps of our roads. It is thanks to the rack, or rather, its steering knuckle with the upper bolt, equipped with an eccentric washer and a belt, that it is possible to change the camber of the wheel. Image - VAZ 2112 DIY front suspension repair

Telescopic front suspension strut VAZ 2110

The rack mounts:

Special spring;
Compression travel buffer made of polyurethane;
Upper support. Its structure is as follows: it is attached to a rack, to which the mudguard is attached with self-locking nuts. Therefore, if you are doing repairs with your own hands, do not miss this moment - you cannot use ordinary nuts;
A bearing that allows the rack to be rotated together with the wheels;
A shock absorber in which a spring and a plunger are installed for better performance.

The ball joint integrates the lower parts: the steering knuckle and the lever.Longitudinal braces, lower levers, supports, which the cross member has, are connected to each other by rubber-metal hinges. With the help of special washers, it becomes possible to adjust the longitudinal tilt of the pivot axis. An angular contact, non-adjustable bearing secures the wheel hubs.

The cross member is the bar to which the lower arms are connected. In the middle, it is attached to the body, with the help of rubber cushions.
This, in short, is the front suspension device. And now we will consider possible malfunctions, which in some cases can be eliminated with our own hands, in others it is better to contact a specialist.

If while driving you hear a knock in the front suspension, then the main reasons may be:

Rack malfunctions;
The bolts are loose, perhaps the braces or pillows with which the cross member is equipped are worn out;
Loose attachment to the body;
The rubber parts have collapsed, and the knocking has a pronounced "metallic" sound;
A "limp" or even a broken spring is knocking;
Wear of hinges;
Knocking noise due to imbalance in the wheels.

Before considering all possible malfunctions of the front suspension on the VAZ 2110, one should remember what the front suspension device is. It is a telescopic independent suspension with cylinder-shaped coil springs, anti-roll bar, wishbone lower arms and hydraulic shock absorbers. Of course, all car owners know that the main suspension element is the shock absorber. The term itself, translated from French, means to soften or weaken.

Automotive shock absorbers are designed primarily to ensure the stability and controllability of the vehicle, damping the sprung and unsprung masses of the vehicle, reducing body roll during braking, ensuring a smooth ride and preventing the wheels from breaking off the road. Due to all of the above functions, it is considered the most important suspension part in any vehicle. The safety of passengers, the driver, as well as the safety of the car depends on the serviceability of this element.

You should not rush to a car dealership right away and pay for expensive, meaningless services for something that you can do yourself, for example, it can be an engine overhaul or, in our case, a front suspension repair. It should be mentioned that many motorists try to realistically assess the quality of the suspension struts and, therefore, hold them responsible for any malfunction that is associated with noise and knocking of the front suspension. This opinion is not unfounded, however, there are other reasons for the phenomenon in question. Do not forget that noise occurs not only due to a malfunction of the struts, but also as a result of a malfunction of another suspension element. In this case, you should study the front suspension diagram in detail, and only then you can determine whether you need to replace the front suspension arm or you can get by with a smaller repair.

So, the main causes of noise in the area of the front suspension on the VAZ 2110:

The bolts that are responsible for attaching the anti-roll bar to the boom body may have been loosened;
The rubber part of the strut support has heavy settling or has collapsed;
The front suspension may make a noise if the upper strut mount is loose to the body;
Braces, front suspension strut or rubber-metal hinges of the arm and suspension are worn out;
Rubber cushions of stretch marks or rods have become unusable;
The compression buffer has collapsed, so a knock is heard in the front suspension;
Front suspension lower arm or suspension arm pivot is worn out;
The suspension spring has settled, deformed or broken;
Lack of wheel balancing.

With a close inspection, even a driver without special skills can detect such malfunctions. It is possible to eliminate all of the listed causes of noise and knocking by tightening the fasteners that are loosened or by replacing worn-out elements with new ones. Every self-respecting car owner should have a manual for the operation and repair of the car, it is this manual that will help you fix the problem. The most important thing is to take a closer look at the front suspension device and determine the cause of the knock.

Wheel balancing should be dealt with separately. It is advisable to visit the nearest car service, where there is a decent balancing stand. The service in question is quite inexpensive, besides, the imbalance can affect not only the occurrence of noise, but also the directional stability during straight-line driving or the uneven and premature wear of machine rubber. For one thing, ask if there is a malfunction in the brake system?

What should be the conclusion after all of the above? Remember, as soon as you hear a knock or noise in the front suspension of a car, it is not at all necessary to immediately go to a car dealership or buy a huge number of expensive imported shock absorbers. Often, repairs to such problems are limited to replacing a rubber cushion or even an elementary tightening of several fasteners.

When it comes to your own car, knowledge will be not only a force, but also a factor that will help you save a lot on maintenance and repair of a car. So, by following the tips below, you can quickly tidy up your car if you hear a knock on the steering rack or front suspension. You will also be able to replace the hub bearing.

If there is a high imbalance of the wheels, balance them in a car workshop, replace the buffer if it is destroyed.
The spring should be replaced when it breaks or settles.
Replacement of the ball joint is carried out when it is worn out or deformed.
Other hinges must be replaced when they are worn out or when the stabilizer bar struts are worn out;
Replacing the rubber element of the strut support when it collapses or settles;
If the attachment to the body of the upper strut support is loose, tighten it;
Worn pads need to be replaced and bolts retightened if they are loose or worn out on the boom and guy pads.

There is a problem in the rack.

Weakness of bolts, increased wear of pads or braces, which are available on the chain.

Inadequate strong fastening to the body.

Exit from the spring.

Wear of hinges.

By loosening the rubber part of the suspension. In this case, the stack should have a brightly expressed "metallic" character.

The presence of a disbalance in the wheel adjustment.

Loss of bolts, with the help of which the fastening to the body bar of the stabilizer of the variable stability is organized.

Disintegration of rubber elements of the rack support.

Increased wear of the barbell or rubber suspension pads.

Compression buffer expansion.

Deformation or exit from the suspension spring.

Wheel alignment.

Wear of rubber-metal joints of the lever or front suspension strut.

Necessity of carrying out timely repair of cracks on the front glass. List of tools and materials for repairing cracks on the front glass and the procedure for performing repair work.

The need to carry out measures for adjusting the clutch on the BAZ-2210 cars. List of tools for adjusting the clutch and the speed of adjusting the clutch cable for BAZ-2110.

Hello, dear visitors of the site> This time we will show you and tell you how to tighten the rail of the VAZ 2110. Why do you need to tighten it? Our roads are to blame. In general, a steering rack should serve 14-15 years, but as we all know, with our operating conditions, the service life of the steering rack is reduced by five. So, common malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 steering rack are backlash and knocking in the steering rack. In order to avoid wasting money immediately in the event of a malfunction, sort out the steering rack or replace it altogether. You can first try to adjust, or rather tighten.

Read more How to tighten the rail VAZ 2110? →

I think everyone understands that with roads like ours, the hodovka often requires repair. Quite often, after winter, when the snow has melted, and the pits are still not visible due to puddles, shock absorbers and thrust bearings often get it. Because of such situations, it is necessary to repair these components of the VAZ 2110 undercarriage. It is better to make repairs in a timely manner, since at the first stages it will result in a waste of less money than if you start a breakdown and it will lead to a more deplorable result.

This article will provide information thanks to which you can replace the VAZ 2110 thrust bearings with your own hands. Moreover, we will do it so that we do not have to adjust the wheel alignment. That is, we will not touch the breakup bolts. Continue reading Replacing the support bearing →

In this publication, I want to tell you how to replace the anti-roll bar. And how to replace its parts. You can easily carry out this type of repair in the garage with your own hands. Stabilizer mounts 4: in two places it is attached to the car body and two more - this is the fastening of its struts to the lever

Let's immediately deal with the attachment points with the lever. We unscrew the nuts.

The first thing I want to write about right away is that do not delay the repair of the ball joint! There were situations when the front wheel, while the car was moving, completely fell on the road, due to wear on the ball. I think there is no need to describe what will happen to the car if it happens at high speed. In addition, from the article you will learn how to replace a ball joint on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands, thereby saving money.

Such a part of a car as a steering tip is referred to as a car walker. And naturally, like other parts of the VAZ undercarriage, with our roads, it often fails. This type of repair, as well as the replacement of ball joints, is quite common on the VAZ 2110. It is difficult to detect a broken steering tip in time. Basically, everyone notices a problem when problems such as a knock in the front end appear, the car does not obey the steering wheel well and the steering control is loose.

If you are not sure that the cause of the malfunction lies precisely in the steering tips, then jack up the wheel and shake it in different directions. If it is a worn tip, then you will notice free play and backlash. To replace the steering tips on the VAZ 2110 does not require a lot of tools and skills. For convenience, here is a list of the tools you will need: Continue reading Replacing steering tips →

1 - ball joint
2 - hub
3 - brake disc
4 - protective casing
5 - pivot arm
6 - lower support cup
7 - suspension spring
8 - protective cover of the telescopic rack
9 - compression buffer
10 - upper support cup
11 - bearing of the upper support
12 - the upper support of the rack

13 - stem nut
14 - stock
15 - support of the compression buffer
16 - telescopic rack
17 - nut
18 - eccentric bolt
19 - steering fist
20 - front wheel drive shaft
21 - a protective cover of the hinge
22 - outer hinge of the shaft
23 - lower arm

Front suspension - independent with telescopic hydraulic shock-absorber struts, coil coil springs, lower wishbones with stretch marks and an anti-roll bar. The basis of the suspension is a telescopic hydraulic shock absorber strut 16. Its lower part is connected to the steering knuckle 19 by two bolts. The upper bolt 18 passing through the hole in the strut bracket has an eccentric collar and an eccentric washer. By turning this bolt, the camber of the front wheel is adjusted. The telescopic rack contains: a coil spring 7, a polyurethane foam buffer for the compression stroke 9, as well as the upper support of the rack 12 assembled with a bearing 11.

Front suspension (bottom view)

1 - stretching the suspension arm
2 - the bar of the anti-roll bar
3 - suspension arm

The top support is secured to the mudguard strut with three self-locking nuts. Due to its elasticity, the support allows the rack to swing during suspension travel and dampens high-frequency body vibrations. The bearing pressed into it allows the rack to turn with the steered wheels.

Parts of a telescopic hydraulic shock absorber are mounted in the rack housing. If it fails, you can install a cartridge in the rack case. Please note that the body of the VAZ-2110 car pillar is somewhat shorter than that of the VAZ-2108, so the use of an externally similar cartridge from the VAZ-2108 is impossible.

The lower part of the steering knuckle 19 is connected to the lower suspension arm 23 through the ball joint 1. The support is fixed with two “blind” bolts (the hole in the steering knuckle is not through).When unscrewing these bolts, be careful: they often break with considerable force, so knock their heads axially before disassembling.

The braking and traction forces when the car is moving are perceived by longitudinal braces connected through silent blocks with the lower arms and a front suspension beam. Washers are installed at the joints (at both ends of the brace) to adjust the caster angle of the pivot axis.

A double row angular contact ball bearing of a closed type is fixed in the steering knuckle by two retaining rings. The wheel hub is installed in the inner rings with an interference fit. The bearing is tightened with a nut on the shank of the outer hinge housing of the wheel drive and is not adjusted in operation. The nuts for fastening the wheel hubs are the same, with a right-hand thread.

The anti-roll bar is a spring steel bar. In its middle part there is a bend to accommodate the exhaust pipe. The ends of the stabilizer are connected to the lower suspension arms through struts with rubber and rubber-metal joints. The bar in its middle part is attached to the body with brackets through rubber cushions.

The location of the front pillar in the suspension of a VAZ 2112 car

Ensuring the safety of the VAZ 2112 car on the road is unthinkable without a working front suspension. The model is equipped with a telescopic, independent suspension with hydraulic shock-absorber struts equipped with coil springs.
Like any unit of a VAZ 2112 auto, the front racks require periodic repair or replacement. How to do the work correctly with your own hands, machine manufacturers offer, taking into account possible unit malfunctions and the warranty period.

The main suspension unit of any car is shock absorber struts.... Their main purpose is to damp the body vibrations of the car and to ensure sufficient adhesion of the wheels to the road surface while driving.
The manufacturer proposes a service life for each machine unit. The instruction recommends replacing the front shock absorber strut, on average, after 30-40 thousand kilometers.
Which indicates the need to replace the front struts:

On the side of the damaged strut, the vibration of the body on the "comb" increases.
The steering wheel beats.
The car leads away from the straightness of the movement.
When cornering, the car skips in an incomprehensible way.
The braking distance is increased.
Abnormal operation of the shock absorber valves is indicated by a knock that has appeared in it.
Oil leakage is possible, its characteristic smudges appear.

All these malfunctions must be eliminated; further operation of the suspension is not desirable.
This can lead to negative consequences:

Failure in the front support bearings.
Increased uneven tire wear. The wheels "jump" when the car is moving, which breaks the hub bearings, the price of which is quite high.
An increase in the braking distance, which is associated with the safety of using the car, when a split second decides the fate of a person.
Reducing the service life of brake pads, which affects the safety of the car and increases the cost of frequent replacement of parts.

Tip: The driver needs to regularly listen to how the suspension works. The appearance of a knock indicates that the car has a malfunction in the front pillar, which requires urgent replacement or repair.

The type of road surface and its quality determines the use of different racks. The role and style that the car is driven by plays a role.
So:

Comfortable movement in the city and beyond is provided by hydraulic or oil front struts of the VAZ 2112 - the cheapest and with small dimensions. With sufficient advantages, they have a number of disadvantages:

The presence of a mixture of air in the chambers to compensate: if the level of low efficiency of the shock absorber is zero. Creates unreliability of devices and excess air;
Frequent and abrupt movement of the piston, when the car is moving on a dirt road, can provoke the formation of cavitation bubbles, which leads to foaming of the oil;
Poor heat dissipation.

Gas front struts have greater rigidity when driving a car at high speed and increased load. However, the increased shock load reduces the comfort of movement for the driver and passengers.
The front gas strut differs for the VAZ 2112 and the increased cost.
Double-tube gas-filled struts are a compromise between gas and oil devices. They have sufficient softness, they show themselves well when driving over rough terrain at high speed.
With a low pressure, the gas backpressure excludes oil boiling, effectively dampens vibrations. This type is the most reliable and durable device.

Screwdriver.
Keys 13, 19 and special key 22.
Metal brush.
Hammer.
Pliers.
Extension.
Ball joint remover.
A device that holds the shock absorber rod during operation.

Tip: It is recommended to replace the front struts at the same time on both sides of the vehicle. The final tightening of all fasteners must be carried out with the optimum suspension load when the vehicle is standing on the surface.

The bolts that secure the front wheel are torn off. Under the rear stops are installed, the handbrake is tightened.
The front of the car rises.
The bonnet is opened.
The front wheel is removed.
The brake hose is released from the bracket located on the rack.
All joints are cleaned with a wire brush.
The nuts fixing the steering knuckle to the shock absorber strut are unscrewed.
Using pliers, remove the cotter pins holding the tie rod end joint to the shock strut.
The nut fixing the hinge is unscrewed.
A puller is installed to remove the ball joints, as seen in the photo.

Installing a puller for ball joints

The tip hinge is extruded from the rack arm.
The bolts securing the shock absorber strut to the steering knuckle are knocked out.
The latter is detached and laid down.

Tip: When installing a repaired strut back before removing it, mark the shock absorber housing and adjusting bolt for correct subsequent installation.

The nuts fixing the front pillar to the glass of the car body are unscrewed.

Unscrewing the nuts fixing the rack to the glass of the machine body

The front pillar is carefully pulled out of the wheel arch.
The front pillar is installed in reverse order.

On the VAZ 2112, you can watch the video how to change the front struts.

The best front struts for the VAZ 2112 are produced by the Japanese company Kayaba... By installing the front racks of the kayaba on the VAZ 2112, the motorist provides himself with maximum comfort while driving at low speeds with low vehicle noise.
Optimum damping force and a high level of safety are ensured even at high speeds. The best front struts on the VAZ 2112 do not create any problems when replacing parts.
The strut can be changed easily and quickly, which reduces the time for repairing the shock absorber. Very often, it is possible to improve the quality of shock absorbers if an extension to the front struts is installed on the VAZ 2112.
In this case:

Accuracy increases when steering a car around corners.

Increases the stability of the machine when traveling in a straight line.

The deformation of the body is reduced when the car is moving on dirt roads and when cornering, which leads to a decrease in the appearance of cracks on the body.

Video (click to play).

If you do all the work efficiently and without haste, then you will not have to redo it for a long time. Also on our resource you can find out how to replace the rear struts.