Vaz 2115 do-it-yourself engine overhaul

First of all, for a high-quality overhaul of the engine, an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic is needed. After all, overhaul, unlike current repairs, requires much more knowledge and skills.

The most common reason for this costly operation is severe engine wear. As a rule, this happens after a long run or due to improper operation, usually an untimely oil change or a violation of the temperature regime. But there may be other reasons when an engine capital is needed. The so-called water hammer, when an abruptly large amount of liquid enters the air intake system or mechanical damage as a result of an accident.

Only an experienced mechanic can determine the need for overhaul for the engine. If a water hammer or obvious mechanical damage has occurred, then everything is obvious. But in case of wear, diagnostics will be required. The first sign of such wear is overestimated oil consumption and increased exhaust smoke. These are clear signs of the need to check the compression in the cylinders - the degree of compression of the working mixture in the combustion chamber.

In the process of checking the condition of the motor, a special device is used - a compression meter. Also, a professional mechanic uses a special model of a stethoscope. The compressor is inserted into the plug hole, the ignition module is turned off and the starter makes several revolutions on each cylinder until the maximum value is obtained. The normal value is from 8.5 MPa.

With a stethoscope, the master by ear determines the development of the crankshaft, liners and piston fingers. Based on the data received, he will issue a verdict on the need for an overhaul of the engine.

Overhaul of the engine affects almost all engine components. Here is a list of engine overhaul parts:

• repair half rings;
• 7 large and 5 small. clamps;
• set of spark plugs;
• vacuum hose;
• main and connecting rod bearings p 1 set;
• a set of pistons and fingers;
• set of rings;
• a complete set of valves;
• valve guide kit;
• valve seals (valve stem seals) for all valves;
• engine oil seals 3 pieces;
• gaskets 3 pcs. (block head, pallet and valve cover);
• oil filter;
• 6 liters of mineral oil for the engine (m6);
• gear oil for the check point (4 l.);
• for valve cover 2 rubber grommets;
• set of block head bolts;
• a complete set of paper spacers;
• oil pump with intake;
• 10 liters of antifreeze;
• air filter;
• timing belt;
• generator belt;
• breather pipe;
• special clamp for the muffler.
  

The list of spare parts is quite long, but it directly depends on the amount of future work. At the cost of spare parts, you can never say something unequivocally. It all depends on the manufacturer, and on the shopping center or auto shop.

This amount of work on the overhaul of the engine requires so many spare parts:

• removing the engine;
• engine wash;
• disassembly of the engine;
• flaw detection of engine parts;
• repair of the cylinder head;
• boring and honing of the cylinder block;
• replacement of oil pump drive shaft liners;
• crankshaft grinding;
• crankshaft polishing;
• removing and installing plugs, cleaning the crankshaft channels;
• replacement of the input shaft bearing;
• grinding the surface for the crankshaft oil seal;
• repressing of pistons;
• engine assembly;
• engine installation.

All this also requires a huge number of tools. The mechanic locksmith uses almost all of his arsenal. Not only a standard set of wrenches, but also special tools, pullers, grippers, drifts and other tricks.

A separate item is the engine running-in after overhaul. This is a separate and very important process worthy of special consideration.

How much an engine overhaul costs depends, as already mentioned, on many factors. This is the region where the work will be carried out, and the cost of parts, and the contractual potential of the car owner. But in general, you can focus on the figure of 20-30,000 rubles for a 16-valve VAZ engine.

You need to know that even after being sent for repairs, some additional difficulties may arise in the process of work. Not a single master, with any diagnostics, will determine the degree of wear of the cylinder liner walls. The basic version takes into account the work on the cylinder bore for the new piston. However, after disassembly, direct inspection may indicate the need for replacement of the cylinder liners themselves. In this case, you will have to buy a set of cylinders and repress them. It's the same with the engine crankshaft. A complete and reliable wear pattern will only be shown by complete disassembly.

It is worth noting that this replacement of work will not greatly affect the total cost.

In case of mechanical damage to the cylinder block itself or its head, the master will send the part for argon welding processing. This is welding of cracks, chips, faults. The head may be deformed and will have to be sanded. But all this, as they say, will only show an autopsy.

It is recommended when carrying out overhaul work, to defect and, if necessary, replace the clutch parts. Defect the gearbox and change the oil in it. This is very convenient when the engine is completely removed.

The repair is over. Now the engine is cold running. At various repair stations, it is made in different ways. The best option, however, is a bench run-in. The removed engine is installed on a special stand, oil is poured at the rate and turning on the stand, it starts rotating at a given speed. However, it is quite difficult to find a stand now. Most often, only at large service centers with exorbitant prices. Small service stations also get out of the situation. There are homemade devices from an electric motor from a 220V network, a reduction gear and attachments for the crankshaft pulley bolt. This system handles cold break-in just as well. The advantage of this device is that it can be used on an already installed engine that is not connected to the power supply and ignition system.

Both cold and hot running-in must be carried out with mineral oil. This is a prerequisite. Only mineral oil will provide a high-quality lapping of parts.

A cold run-in lasts approximately 15 minutes. After that, the master looks at the condition of the oil with a dipstick and sometimes removes the valve cover for control. Then it starts up for another 25-30 minutes. That's it, now the engine can be fully connected to the car system.

After the cold break-in and engine start-up check, the hot break-in period begins. It consists in operating the machine in a gentle way. That is, it is advisable not to overclock the engine over 5000 rpm, not to load the car with excessive weight and not to heat up too much. Otherwise, operate as usual. This mode must be kept 3500 kilometers. After that, you need to drain the used oil. It is advisable to fill in the flush, and run at idle for several minutes. Drain the flush. Now you can fill in fresh.

From that moment on, the usual semisynthetics are poured. The break-in period is over and you can use the machine as usual. Only then can we say that the overhaul has been successfully completed.Below is a helpful informational video:

Remove the plastic cover, unscrew the receiver mount

We remove the throttle cable, connectors from the diesel fuel, the solid propellant engine and the nozzle harness. We unscrew the ground wires.

Receiver, MZ, BB-wires, candles removed.

Using a 10 key, unscrew the timing belt cover bolts

We unscrew the ground wire and the bracket for attaching the gas pipes.

The front right wheel is already on the jack. We combine the marks and unscrew the bolts of the camshaft gears and the roller nuts.

We remove the gears (do not lose the keys), rollers and the back cover (you may have to remove the pulley for the alternator belt from the crankshaft).

Before unscrewing the bolts securing the head cover, their threads must be sealed with a slight blow of a hammer through the knob on the head

Also, having previously besieged, unscrew the two bolts of the ramp fastening, with a hexagon.

Having unscrewed one bolt, we take out the probe assembly with its trunk.

We take out the ramp together with the nozzles, shifting it to the right and ourselves.

We put it to the side without unscrewing the hoses.

This bracket will get in the way and must be removed.

Unscrew a bunch of camshaft pastel bolts and remove the middle part of the head. I starred with the camshafts.

Carefully remove the camshafts and spark plug wells.

We take out the hydraulic lifters with a good magnet, put them in a clean, dust-free place so that later each one can be put in its place.

The oil seals did not flow, but they did not have long to live. We replace them with new ones.

The wells were leaking. The bottom turned into a thin, snotty substance.

Because of the importance of the moment, I forgot to photograph the process of unscrewing the head bolts. They must first be settled and unscrewed with a GOOD hexagon. We remove the head from the engine. We begin to dry out the valve.

With tweezers and an awl, we take out crackers, with toothy pasatizh we remove the old MSCs, we put on the new ones with the help of a mandrel.

MSCs are hardened and the inner diameter has increased. Timely replacement!

The inlet valve is heavily soiled. We clean it with a knife and sandpaper.

Similarly, there is an outlet in the head ...

With a sharp knife and sandpaper, remove the remnants of the gasket from the surface.

On this side, remove the remnants of the sealant. Thoroughly rinse your head with gasoline.

VAZ-21113, manufactured in 2000, engine 1500, 16-ve, mileage 95,000 kilometers.
Costs:
1. Rings "Male" - 710
2. MSK "Elring" - 190
3. Head gasket - 220
4. Laying pr. Pipe of the collector - 60
5. Pallet gasket - 40
6. Hydraulic compensators 2x60 - 320
7. Oil seals for camshafts 2x60 - 60
8. Sealant "red, silicone" - 70
9. Motor oil - 528
10. Oil filter - 89
11. Fuel filter - 91
12. Air filter - 76
13. Guide for MSC - 50
14. O-rings into wells - 210
15. Breather pipe - 50
16. Clamps 6 pieces - 72
17. Receiver hairpin - 25
19. Pump tee gasket - 3

Let's move on to the block. With a sharp knife and a small skin, remove the remnants of the old gasket and clean off the carbon deposits.

Remove the oil pan and oil receiver.

We unscrew the two connecting rod nuts and pull out the piston with the connecting rod up. The arrows indicate the rubbing surfaces.

The crankshaft connecting rod journal is in excellent condition.

There are no scratches on the cylinder mirror. Traces of hone are still visible. Fine!

Mileage 95,000 kilometers. There is no wear.

Remove the first compression ring from the piston and insert it into the pot.

Below, in the middle and above ...

We measure the gap in the ring lock. Correct clearance.

We also measure the second compression and oil consumption.

We clean the grooves in the piston with an old, broken in half, ring.

We insert new rings. First, oil-rich ...

... then the second compression ...

... then the first compression. Put on the rings carefully, otherwise they can break, especially the second, cast iron.

Insert the piston using a mandrel, correctly positioning the connecting rod ...

... gently tapping the hammer handle.

We replace the rubber ring on the oil receiver and lubricate with sealant.

We coat all surfaces of the pallet, new gasket and block with a thin layer of sealant. We put the pallet in place.

It is better to replace the pump tee gasket, then it will be much more difficult to do it.

We clean the holes for the cylinder head bolts.

We put a new gasket on the front pipe and on the block. Carefully put the head back in place and tighten the bolts in four steps.

We clean the middle part of the cylinder head from rubbish.

Having liberally lubricated with engine oil, insert the hydraulics and camshafts into place. We coat with red silicone sealant around the perimeter.

... and in the center, where the bolts on the counterpart are also. Be sure to check all three TDC marks and stretch the bolts.

Candle wells. We put on elastic bands, smear with sealant ...

.. rubber bands in place, more grease and wells in place.

Having smeared the top cover of the cylinder head with sealant, we install it in place

We start the engine and enjoy the increased self-esteem

In one of the previous articles, we covered in detail the "typical" overhaul of the Oka engine. In that report, we talked about ways to increase engine life, borrowed from our experience with engine tuning, which we use during standard overhauls.

In this article, we would like to talk about the overhaul of an eight-valve engine VAZ 21083 car VAZ 2109... Let us remind you once again that tuning is not always advisable or is necessary for the client - often the budget is limited, and the resource of the serial engine is exhausted - a high-quality overhaul without large investments is required. We offer different options for repairing or tuning the engine, and the client selects the most convenient for himself in terms of engine power or financial costs.

It is likely that in the future we will rarely return to the topic of "typical overhaul", but I would like to say that this article is a sample our work, it describes our principles of repair. Of course, for each specific engine, the list of replaced parts and work performed will differ, but the difference is not that big.

The work in question can be offered to the attention of customers who have in use any front-wheel drive VAZ car with an eight-valve engine. This is the Samar family, "ten", all Kalina and Priory, with 8 valves.

It is important that we provide a written guarantee for an engine after a major overhaul - 6 months, or 20 thousand km of run... This guarantee is a guarantee of great responsibility when assembling the engine and selecting components. We understand perfectly well that a client, especially one who is temporarily without a car, should not be involved in the search and purchase of spare parts for repair, he does not have that experience in the selection of spare parts that we have. Therefore, our principle is that we buy spare parts ourselves, since we know where to find a factory oil seal, and not a cooperative one, we know which imported spare parts can be supplied and which cannot (the example with Elring and Reinz oil seals is indicative). We consider this approach to be the most correct.

Let's take a look at the client machine. This is a VAZ 2109, assembled by RosLada, with a VAZ engine with a working volume of 1.5 liters. Injector with one lambda probe, without catalytic converter and camshaft sensor. Car mileage - 203 thousand kilometers, without engine repairs! The indications for repair are low compression in the 2nd cylinder, and breakage of the timing belt teeth on the track. We accept a car for repair only after washing the body and engine compartment.

Remove the head assembly with manifolds. The gas joint gasket had long been opened and let through the exhaust gases (blackness is visible at the junction and surrounding details), which gave an increased engine noise.

The gasket under the head is “tired” - we found a breakdown of the gasket to the outside (near the generator), which is why the joint under the head was constantly sweating on the block. The photo below shows the punched edge - we specially raised the edge of the gasket for clarity.Otherwise, the condition of the gasket leaves much to be desired - multiple under-film corrosion of the block under the gasket has noticeably eaten away the plane.
Cylinders are worn out, pistons are loose.

How to understand if there is a need to overhaul the engine?
Mileage 100 thousand.
From the jambs of the car:
antifreeze leaks in one of the cylinders, oil, the engine whistles, barely audible.

Well, until the troit starts very much, you can not do it

Everything that flows in a Soviet car is normal)
My 2112 also has everything flowing! Kapitalka is usually made for 150 thousand, indications for it: it eats too much oil, works unevenly, sometimes white smoke comes out (these are valves or caps then replace the top), sometimes black (these are rings, everything is changed here).

ride while pulling and the flow is satisfied.

Closer to 100 tons km, it is advisable to remove the cylinder head, change the valve stem seals, clean and grind the valves, adjust the valve clearances. And there it will already be seen. If it is intact on the cylinders, then you don't have to climb to the “bottom”.

If you want to drive NORMALLY and LONG, do not spare the money, put on a NEW engine. You will carefully roll it around, you will ride it yourself and enjoy life. As a result, you will spend the same amount on “disassembly-bulkheads”, only with hemorrhoids.

how did you know that the antifreeze is in the piston?
I'm on my 2115 200t. I drove km, I never even took off the head.

They made fun of the capital for 100 thousand)) Either the mileage was twisted, or the car was stupidly “killed” ..
In your case, if antifreeze enters the cylinder (by the way, where did you get it from?), Then you need to replace the cylinder head gasket, not the capital.

Such engines run up to capital for 300 thousand or more if you drive wisely

it is really early for the capital, if the run is fair.

Video on overhaul and assembly of an engine, a VAZ 2112 car, as well as detailed instructions with photo support for disassembling a VAZ 2110 engine.

Repairing the VAZ 2110 engine, like any other model of the car, is not an easy job, but still performed. If you are at least a little versed in the technique, then you will be able to perform it. To carry out repairs, you must at least disassemble the engine. We bring to your attention a hint on how and in what sequence to carry out such work.

3. Remove the tension roller, camshaft drive belt and spacer washer that is installed under the tension roller.

4. Remove the toothed pulley from the camshaft.

5. We unscrew four bolts, three of which are attached to the water pump. We unscrew the fastening nut on the rear cover of the camshaft drive belt and remove the cover.

6. To remove the water pump, insert a screwdriver between the block and the pump casing flange and thus slide it out of its seat. After completing these operations, we remove the water pump.

7. Remove the head from the cylinder block.

8. Unscrew the bolts (16 of them) securing the oil sump, then remove it together with the gasket.

9. Unscrew the bolts (3 of them) fastening the oil receiver and remove it. Note that there are spring washers under the bolt heads.

11. Then rotate the crankshaft so that the piston that is being removed hits the BDC (bottom dead center). It is necessary to unscrew the two fastening nuts to remove the connecting rod cover.

12. Now remove the connecting rod cover. In the case when it is difficult to dismantle the cover, you can first touch it with light hammer blows. It may be that the number of the cylinder on the cover will be invisible, in which case the cover should be marked with the number of the cylinder.

13. Using the hammer handle, push the connecting rod into the cylinder, then carefully remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder. In the process, you need to make sure that the lower head of the connecting rod does not touch the cylinder mirror, as this can damage it. Remove the rest of the pistons in the same way.

14.If you need to remove the piston from the connecting rod, then we mark it with the cylinder number so as not to confuse them when installing them. On the connecting rod, the same must be the cylinder number: if it is not visible, then we mark the connecting rod.

16. Unscrew the bolts (there are 6), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal holder and gasket. Remember that there are spring washers under the bolt heads.

17. From the crankshaft, remove the toothed pulley. In the case when the key does not sit tightly in the groove of the shaft elbows, we must take it out so that it does not get lost.

18. Unscrew the six bolts, under the heads of which there are spring washers, and remove the oil pump and gasket.

19. We unscrew the mounting bolts on five caps (each with 2 bolts) of the main bearings.

21. Remove the crankshaft of the VAZ 2110 car.

22. We carry out the removal on the middle support of the persistent half rings of the crankshaft.

23. If it is not planned to replace the liners, then as they are removed, we take them out of the block beds and from the main bearing caps.

24. On the non-working side, we mark the inserts relative to the beds and covers.

25. If there is a need to remove the engine mounts and generator brackets, unscrew the bolts (3 pieces) of their fastening and remove the supply pipe of the water pump by unscrewing its fastening.

26. Remove the piston rings using a special puller. If there is no such device, then remove the rings from the piston, carefully opening the ring locks.

27. Remove the oil scraper ring expander spring from the engine piston.

28. The retaining rings that hold the piston pin are removed from both sides of the piston. Recesses are provided in the piston bosses for easy removal of the rings.

29. Using a suitable mandrel, push the pin out of the piston, then remove the piston from the connecting rod.

30. Take out the inserts from the connecting rod and its cover. If they remain on the crankshaft, remove them from the shaft. If the replacement of the liners is not required, then as they are removed, we mark them with respect to the numbers of caps and connecting rods.

This completes the process of disassembling the VAZ 2110 engine. Successful completion of the renovation.