Vaz 21213 clutch repair do it yourself bleeding

In detail: vaz 21213 clutch repair do-it-yourself bleeding from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Bleeding the clutch drive on cars before 2009 and after - is carried out in the same way.

If, when you press the pedal to the end, the clutch is not completely disengaged ("clutching"), which is accompanied by a characteristic grinding of gears when the reverse gear is engaged, then there is probably air in the clutch hydraulic drive. Leveling required.

In addition, bleeding must be done after changing the fluid or when changing clutch parts with depressurization of the system.

We carry out the work on a lift or a viewing ditch.

We check the fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir and, if necessary, add fluid.

Remove the cap from the working cylinder union.

We put a transparent plastic hose on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid.

Using the “8” key, unscrew the union by 1 / 2–3 / 4 of a turn.

At the same time, the assistant abruptly presses the clutch pedal and releases it smoothly until the air bubbles emitted from the hose disappear.

With the clutch pedal depressed, wrap the fitting, remove the hose and put on the cap.

We carry out the work on a lift or a viewing ditch.

We check the fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir and, if necessary, add fluid.

Remove the cap from the working cylinder union.

We put a transparent plastic hose on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid.

Using the “8” key, unscrew the union by 1 / 2–3 / 4 of a turn.

At the same time, the assistant abruptly presses the clutch pedal and releases it smoothly until the air bubbles emitted from the hose disappear.
With the clutch pedal depressed, wrap the fitting, remove the hose and put on the cap.

Video (click to play).

The air in the clutch is indicated by incomplete release of the clutch, as well as "softness" and "failures" of the clutch pedal.

Removing air from the hydraulic drive

1. Clean the reservoir and bleed nipple of dust and dirt.
2. Check the fluid level in the reservoir of the hydraulic actuator and add fluid if necessary.
3. Put a hose on the head of the fitting 9 of the working cylinder and immerse its lower end into a vessel with fluid for a hydraulic drive (30-50 g) - see fig. Slave cylinder and clutch release fork.
4. Unscrew the union 9 by 1 / 2–3 / 4 turn, press sharply and smoothly release the pedal until the release of air bubbles from the hose stops.
5. Pressing the pedal, screw the fitting all the way in. Remove the hose and replace the fitting cap.
6. If, in spite of prolonged pumping, air bubbles come out of the hose, check the reliability of the fastening of the connections, find out if there are any cracks on the tubes or leaks in the connections with the fittings. Air may enter through damaged O-rings on the master or slave cylinder.

1. The fluid level in the reservoir of the hydraulic drive must be above the opening of the tube connecting the reservoir to the master cylinder.
2. The end of the pumping hose must be immersed in the liquid at all times.
3. After bleeding, bring the fluid level in the reservoir to the lower edge of the filler neck.

Immediately after the new year, on January 7, I finally changed the clutch in the field, at the same time changed the clutch master and slave cylinders. Replacing the clutch on a field and on a monodrive tasks are completely different in terms of labor intensity. I changed my clutch for two days, though along the way I did a lot more. It is highly advisable to call a friend for help. I managed to do everything alone, but next time I will try to do it with an assistant.

So, we begin our difficult path. Replacing the clutch on a field is one and a half times more confusing than on a conventional front-wheel drive credit.The Niva also has a transfer case and two cardan drives, all of which are bolted together and to the checkpoint. The photo shows that the front gimbal has already been removed.

Picturesque view of the razdatka, then RK. In principle, it makes no sense to unscrew the rear universal joint until the end. Simply unscrew the RK from the flange and set aside. As in the photo.

I remember writing a little about the intermediate shaft that year. He was the reason for leaving the trophy raid on the first bike. In the photo there is a new one for 21213 - a CV joint, one part of it is essentially a standard "grenade". The old-style crosspiece cannot be found in stores, which is sad. There is an analysis and it seems like I heard that they are doing a non-original. I didn't buy it right away, I had to go, I took the standard one again. Its peculiarity is that when damaged, the car is immobilized. On the old cross-shaft intermediate shaft, according to the stories of people, you can somehow slowly get to the place of repair.

In order to remove the RK, it is necessary to release the blocking and low gear levers from above. For this, the entire manual transmission cover is removed. The casing is on large self-tapping screws, for a Phillips screwdriver. Under the casing, right from the passenger compartment, we see a bagel of the flush.

Then we go down under the car and unscrew the support of the transfer case. But in front of this awl, scissors, something sharp we circle the position of the supports relative to the bottom. The photo shows a trace around the studs - this is what it is - marks. It is necessary to put the dispenser in the same position when we put it back. Using a 13 ratchet with a long head, unscrew the nuts from the studs, 4 pieces, two for each support. Then you need an assistant or your own crap. We grab the distributor and carefully remove it so as not to damage the pins. One of the most nasty problems with old cornfields is just the pins of the transfer case. If it breaks off, rot, it will lick off the thread - it will be difficult to fix the distributor normally. Will go - noises and vibrations. You can change the hairpin by drilling it out of the passenger compartment. I had to do so, but the inserted bolt now needs to be unscrewed while holding it both in the cabin and under the bottom of the car. Well, yes - it is necessary to weld, I agree. I'll finish it in the spring.

Next, we will remove the gearbox. In the photo, the gearbox shaft flange is looking at us, to which the intermediate shaft between the RK and the gearbox is screwed. I didn’t photograph the process of taking pictures, as I was filming alone and I got my hands dirty, it was inconvenient to take pictures. The gearbox bell is bolted to the engine block with four bolts. Like 17 or 19 - I don’t remember, and it’s not really important. The main thing is that you need heads with extension cords, it is not so easy to get to them. It seems difficult the first time, but in reality you just need a ratchet with a good extension.

And this is a removed transfer case, laid along closer to the rear axle so that it does not interfere

Having removed the checkpoint, I try on the bearing on it.

Clutch disc from the original kit. Of course, it is more correct to put the clutch from the Chevy Niva. Native clutch 21213 is a mutant from the classic and eight parts. The clutch from 2123 has undeniable advantages - it is twice or three times more durable, soft, the disc is larger in diameter and area. But the price is twice as expensive.

It's time to put everything on the flywheel. In the photo, everything is already screwed on. Those who independently change the clutch for the first time need to know that the primary shaft of the gearbox must be used to center the disc and the basket. It can be taken out of the gearbox by disassembling it and sawing it off with a grinder. The end of the input shaft sticks out of the bell, where the bearing is put on. Without this, it is difficult to screw the clutch disc symmetrically inside the basket. But you can use a metal rod of a suitable diameter or something like that. A crookedly installed clutch will prevent you from screwing the box to the engine. The crookedly installed will make you swear with the dirtiest phrases in the process of connecting the gearbox to the engine :). Therefore, the input shaft for alignment is highly desirable.

By the way, nevertheless, my clutch was either fidgety or buggy, not at all because of the fatigue of the clutch disc. I got him, and he is a bastard! Still would be like. The bearing rustled, but it would also have passed.I could just update the GCC and RCC, upgrade the system, and it would take place until the summer, and there is already a complete replacement, everything that suggested itself.

Let's go back to the checkpoint. I cleaned the fork with a bell from dirt, put a new release bearing. Further installation is in the reverse order. The most difficult thing in one person is to dock the box with the engine. Here are some tips - to tighten the clutch as accurately as possible. Having thrust the input shaft into the center of the flywheel, fix the tail of the box, put a bar of some kind. Further, with the help of such a mother, slightly shaking the gearbox from side to side, push it closer to the engine. As soon as the bolts securing the gearbox to the engine begin to reach a little bit, victory is close. We pull the gearbox to the engine using bolts. Here you need to watch out for the bias. When one bolt is slightly screwed to the block, you need to set the wobbly box as even as possible, and try to thread the fastening bolt diagonally. In practice, of course, not everything is so smooth, but you can put it. I changed the clutch for the first time in my life in the field, and nothing seemed to work out.

The clutch master and slave cylinders can also cause big trouble. My leaking RCS gave the clutch sticking effect. Sometimes it was impossible to turn off the transmission, sometimes turn it on. We remove the front gimbal, we have it already removed. The front gearbox flange is visible, i.e. if the gimbal was in place, it would be unrealistic to unscrew the RCS. Bolts 13, two pieces. It is advisable to photograph the mount itself as it stood. And then later (six hours later) I twist it in my hands and I can't remember how it stood.

The cylinder is covered in snot, it is clear that it is dead. Code for buying a new one 2101-1602515

Everything, the cylinder is removed, the new one is installed in the reverse order. But at first I also changed the main one, he goes up the hose.

Stretching the clutch cable

On Niva I try to buy everything from the factory, from the fret-image in blue and white boxes. New working and master cylinders.

So the clutch master cylinder is a classic. Part code - 2101-1602615

Unscrewing the cylinder is elementary - turn it right and left and you're done. Although there is a problem with removal - the fitting on the first branch pipe turns sour.

Now the GCC is in place. Now you need to bleed the system by pumping in a new brake fluid. It's better to download with a partner naturally. This completes the replacement of the clutch in the field, you can disperse

A small pleasantness - a long battery, which I bought at Ford, fits into a regular place. Just some kind of joy, I wanted to cheer, and there is a numbered element. A field of wine next to the battery.

Somehow I changed a worker on a UAZ, but the clutch became tight. I removed and when comparing the old with the new, I noticed a difference in the through holes from the hoses, the new one had less. after reaming, the previous softness on the pedals returned

I changed the clutch and the vibration started at idle, maybe somewhere there are marks, only the disc changed

We pump the clutch after replacing the master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder or clutch hose.

The design features of the VAZ-21213 clutch are discussed in the article - "VAZ-21213 clutch device".

We carry out the work on a lift or a viewing ditch.

We check the fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir and, if necessary, add fluid. 0.2 l is poured into the clutch release hydraulic drive system. brake fluid DOT-3, - 4.

1. Remove the cap from the working cylinder union. We put a transparent plastic hose on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid.

Using the “8” key, unscrew the union by 1 / 2–3 / 4 of a turn.

At the same time, the assistant abruptly presses the clutch pedal and releases it smoothly until the air bubbles emitted from the hose disappear. With the clutch pedal depressed, wrap the fitting, remove the hose and put on the cap.

The reservoir is usually removed for replacement or flushing.

1. Unscrew the reservoir cap and pump out the brake fluid with a rubber bulb from the reservoir.

2. Having loosened the hose clamp, remove the hose from the tank fitting.

3. Using the "10" key, unscrew the two nuts securing the tank clamp to the body

It is best to rinse the tank with a soapy water solution.After that, rinse under running water and dry the tank.

Install the tank in reverse order. Fill in the brake fluid and pump the clutch hydraulic drive.

The clutch slips (does not fully engage) When the accelerator pedal is pressed sharply, the engine picks up speed, but the car hardly accelerates (this is especially noticeable when driving uphill); you can smell overheated friction linings; fuel consumption increases

Incorrect adjustment of the clutch drive (no pedal free travel)

Adjust the drive (see Clutch)

Oiling of the flywheel, pressure plate, friction linings of the driven plate

Thoroughly rinse oily surfaces with white spirit or gasoline and wipe dry. Replace heavily oiled clutch disc. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leakage through the oil seal of the engine and / or gearbox)

Severe wear or burning of the friction linings of the driven disc

Replace driven disc assembly

Reducing the force of the diaphragm spring

Replace the pressure plate assembly with the casing ("clutch basket")

Sticking of the driven disc hub on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox

Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If there is significant wear or damage to the splines, replace the disc and / or input shaft of the gearbox. Before assembly, apply Litol-24 or SHRUS-4 grease to the splines

The expansion hole of the clutch master cylinder is clogged

Disassemble the master cylinder, rinse and clean the parts. Replace its seals and hydraulic fluid

The clutch master cylinder piston slowly returns to its original position due to swelling of the rubber cuffs

Replace cuffs or cylinder assembly. If you suspect that gasoline or other solvents have entered the clutch fluid, replace it

Clutch is engaged (not completely disengaged) Forward gear shifting is difficult, reverse gear engages with noise

Incorrect adjustment of the clutch drive (full pedal travel is low, its free travel is increased)

Adjust the drive (see Clutch)

Air has entered the hydraulic drive system (pedal "soft")

Bleed the system, tighten the connections. If there is a leak from the master or slave cylinder, replace their cuffs or cylinder assemblies

The clutch release fork is deformed

Weakening of rivets or breakage of friction linings, warpage of the driven disc (face runout more than 0.5 mm)

Severe and uneven wear, scuffing on the running surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate

Grind or replace flywheel. If the surface of the pressure plate is damaged, replace the casing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch basket)

Skewed or warped pressure plate

Replace the casing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch basket)

Sticking of the driven disc hub on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox

Loose rivets in clutch cover plate or diaphragm spring, plate breakage

Replace the casing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch basket)

Bleeding the clutch hydraulic drive

PERFORMANCE ORDER

We carry out the work on a lift or a viewing ditch.

We check the fluid level in the clutch fluid reservoir and, if necessary, add fluid.

Remove the cap from the working cylinder union.

We put a transparent plastic hose on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid.

Using the “8” key, unscrew the union by 1 / 2–3 / 4 of a turn.

Instructions for the repair and replacement of clutch discs Niva 2121, the procedure for removing and installing cylinders Niva 2131, VAZ 2121.Hydraulic clutch and bleeding Clutch device Niva 2121, Niva 2131, DIY repair transmission repair clutch, device, repair and maintenance

We carry out the work on a lift or a viewing ditch.

We check the fluid level in the reservoir of the Niva 2131 clutch hydraulic drive and, if necessary, add fluid.

Remove the cap from the niva 2131 slave cylinder fitting.

We put a transparent plastic hose on the fitting, the end of which is lowered into a container with brake fluid.

Using the “8” key, unscrew the union by 1 / 2–3 / 4 of a turn.

At the same time, the assistant abruptly presses the clutch pedal of the Niva 2121 and smoothly releases it until the air bubbles emitted from the hose disappear. With the clutch pedal depressed, the VAZ 2121 wrap the fitting, remove the hose and put on the cap.

Clutch device Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Design features of the clutch Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Clutch engagement and disengagement adjustment Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Clutch bleeding Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Replacing the clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Replacing the clutch master cylinder Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Removal and installation of the clutch slave cylinder Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Removal and installation of a flexible hose of the hydraulic drive of the clutch Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Removing and installing driven and driving clutch discs Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Replacing the clutch drive Niva 2121, Niva 2131

Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.

Clutch bleeding should be done when the clutch is not fully engaged.

The basics of clutch bleeding in the video below:

When everything you need for work is at hand, then you should perform the following activities:

Image - VAZ 21213 clutch repair do it yourself bleeding

Clutch bleed fluid

A hose should be put on the connection of the cylinder of the system, and its other end is immersed in the container.

Next, the assistant squeezes the clutch pedal (3-4 times) and then holds it down.

With the pedal depressed, unscrew the valve and bleed the fluid in the system. The valve then closes and the system builds up pressure again.

We pump the clutch by pressing and holding the pedal

The procedure should be repeated until a clear liquid comes out of the system. It should also be free of air bubbles.

Controlling liquid color and air bubbles

In the process, you need to check the liquid level in the tank. If necessary, it is topped up.

After bleeding, top up the fluid reservoir up to the MAX mark.

Before a test drive, check how the gears are engaged with the clutch depressed.

To check the technical condition of the clutch, you will need:

With the engine warm and idling, depress the clutch pedal and engage the gear. In the process, there should be no rattling in the gearbox.
When the car accelerates, it should pick up speed in proportion to the increase in the crankshaft speed. If the engine runs at high revs, and the car does not accelerate dynamically, it means that the clutch is slipping. It will need to be repaired.

This can be determined because when any gear is turned on, a rattling sound will be heard in the box.

This situation may indicate that air has appeared in the system. This can happen as a result of replacing both the fluid itself and the system parts.

To do this work yourself, you should have a set of tools, a replacement fluid, an empty container and a tube. It will be convenient to carry out work with an assistant. Pumping should be done on an inspection pit or overpass.

You should not constantly keep your foot on the clutch pedal when driving.

In this case, the disc will slip and wear out faster. And also the release bearing will work under load, as a result of which its resource will be reduced. For the same reason, the clutch pedal should not be depressed for too long. This can happen, for example, in a traffic jam.

Knowing these points, you can independently determine the quality of the clutch, and also, if necessary, bleed it.

Dear visitors of the Avtotrak website! We will be very grateful to you for your comments on the video clip “Vaz 2121 clutch bleeding”, this does not require registration. We also ask you to inform you if you have any problems with video playback.

Oh, you ept Better go to the masters to change. By the way, Murat Tkhagalegov pleased =

10/27/2016 - 11:50 Dmitry Zavertailo

Thank you Video helped a lot

03.10.2016 - 20:26 Stanislav Malov

Guys, are you sure that Exedy is installed at the factory as standard? If this happens, it will be a miracle. By the way, where did you get this one? I want myself, because this is the best option for the Niva.

09/11/2016 - 09:29 Oleg Petrovich

Thanks for the video, everything was explained in an accessible way and, most importantly, without obscenities. Good luck

09/07/2016 - 04:18 Juan Sandoval

Hi, I am from Venezuela, I would like to know how to make a correct diagnosis of a coupling or a pump? ... It doesn't work the clutch, but if I start the engine in gear 1, the engine clicks and starts. For this reason, I don’t know what will become what is damaged: the clutch or the pump?

08/19/2016 - 22:04 Anton Aleksandrovich Melkov

Hello Juan Sandoval, apparently the difficulties of translation, I cannot fully understand the question. In general, the clutch can fail for several reasons: 1 disc or basket wear, 2 hydraulic fluid leakage due to a malfunction of the cylinders or hose, and 3 the last reason is a broken fork. There are two types of clutch failure: slipping is caused by 1 or 2 reasons, while the car starts up badly and a crunch is heard during gear shifting, and it becomes more difficult to switch them and there is no clutch at all, well, here are all three reasons, but most often the fork breaks. That's all that can be said about the clutch, of course, there are some features from different manufacturers, but this affects the driving comfort and not the principle of operation. As for the gasoline pump, I will only say that if the pump is not working properly, then the car will go no faster than 30 km / h and be tough at the same time. Email me any questions about the field, I will answer and try to shoot a video on this topic. P. S .: but here we are only talking about grip. Thanks for the Comments

07/20/2016 - 22:40 Valerii Kostin

The video is good, but what about the problem?

07/10/2016 - 16:09 Alina Filippova

Good day I turn on any program. the car was standing on the spot and still stands. the wheels don't spin at all

Simple and intelligible thanks respect

the question is, is it worth putting a 215mm clutch 21214M on an old cornfield?

05/26/2016 - 23:34 Nikolay Nikolaev

I'm in such sadness - the same garbage - starts to slip, and I have to do it without a hole in the chocks.

Instructions for the repair and replacement of clutch discs Niva 2121, the procedure for removing and installing cylinders Niva 2131, VAZ 2121. clutch, device, repair and maintenance, Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.

Number of rows: 5101520253050100All

Pedal, master and slave cylinders of the clutch release drive vaz 2121

1 - adjusting nut; 2 - lock nut; 3 - pull-back spring; 4 - the body of the working cylinder; 5 - body plug; 6 - connection for pumping; 7 - piston; 8 - sealant; 9 - pusher; 10 - clutch release fork; 11 - ball bearing of the plug; 12 - main cylinder body; 13 - cork; 14 - the piston of the master cylinder; 15 - pusher of the main cylinder; 16 - clutch pedal travel stop; 17 - clutch pedal

The gap between the pusher and the piston of the Niva 2131 master cylinder, required to completely disengage the clutch, should be 0.1–0.5 mm. To adjust ...

… With a key "10" loosen the lock nut of the clutch pedal travel stop, holding the stop with a wrench of the same dimension (the pedal assembly has been removed for clarity).

Rotating the limiter, we achieve the required clearance. In this case, the free travel of the clutch pedal is 0.4–2.0 mm. Free travel of the pusher of the working cylinder of the Niva 2121 should be 4–5 mm.To define it, we use a simple template, for which we use, for example, a pencil.

We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or a lift.

We remove the retractor spring and rest the end of the pencil against the lug of the lower fastening of the clutch slave cylinder of the VAZ 2131. On the pencil we put one mark opposite the end of the fork (pressed against the adjusting nut), and the second mark to the right, at a distance of 5 mm from the first.

We move the clutch release fork back to the stop, that is, we select the free travel of the pusher of the working cylinder (the front propeller shaft is removed for clarity).

During normal free travel of the pusher, the fork will stand against the second mark. Otherwise, adjustment is necessary:

turn the lock nut with a key "13", holding the adjusting nut with a key "17";

holding the pusher with pliers, rotate the adjusting nut of the cornfield, achieving normal free travel of the pusher. We lock the connection. After adjustments, the free travel of the clutch pedal until the start of its disengagement should be 25–35 mm. We finally check the clutch operation with the Niva 2121 engine running: with the clutch depressed, the gears should shift easily, and the Niva 2131 car should get under way when the pedal is released from the floor by one or two thirds of its travel.

Clutch bleeding should be done when the clutch is not fully engaged.

The basics of clutch bleeding in the video below:

When everything you need for work is at hand, then you should perform the following activities:

Open the tank where the liquid is poured and fill it up to the neck. It is located in the engine compartment.

Clutch bleed fluid

We pump the clutch by pressing and holding the pedal

Controlling liquid color and air bubbles

Before a test drive, check how the gears are engaged with the clutch depressed.

To check the technical condition of the clutch, you will need:

With the engine warm and idling, depress the clutch pedal and engage the gear. In the process, there should be no rattling in the gearbox.
When the car accelerates, it should pick up speed in proportion to the increase in the crankshaft speed. If the engine runs at high revs, and the car does not accelerate dynamically, it means that the clutch is slipping. It will need to be repaired.

This can be determined because when any gear is turned on, a rattling sound will be heard in the box.

This situation may indicate that air has appeared in the system. This can happen as a result of replacing both the fluid itself and the system parts.

You should not constantly keep your foot on the clutch pedal when driving.

Knowing these points, you can independently determine the quality of the clutch, and also, if necessary, bleed it.

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

Perhaps, during installation, you did not snap the fork clamping petals under the stop ball, and when pressed, they first spring, and then squeeze occurs.

The second option is a crack in the fork near where it rests on the ball.
The fork can be removed easily, it is also easy to install if you remove the front universal joint and slightly sharpen the edges of the fork, which should go under the release spring.
It is necessary to sharpen, that they would be like a hundred-place. Sharpen from the side where the sides are, between the sides.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

Reg .: 19.09.2010
Posts: 149
Location: Voronezh-36
Age: 35
Auto: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

Reg .: 19.09.2010
Posts: 149
Location: Voronezh-36
Age: 35
Auto: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998

The stem nuts are unscrewed to the end, the fork rests on the box (when depressing the pedal).
That's just the whole fork.
Added after 2 minutes 14 seconds:

I think it's easier to completely change the clutch.

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

I had a disc and a basket from Chevy, an old-style clutch release. No problem. With a new one, the difference in size from the pressure plane to the legs is literally 3-4 mm. The role should not be played.

Of course, you can change, the money is yours, but I'm not sure if this is the case.
First try to loosen the nuts and check how much the stem will come out when squeezing.
If with one press of the pedal the stem comes out 4 cm or more, then all the same, take out the plug. Look carefully at it and the ball of the stop.

Now, if everything is fine there, then buy a new one and change it.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

Reg .: 19.09.2010
Posts: 149
Location: Voronezh-36
Age: 35
Auto: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

It will spin from vibration. If you put a thick washer under it, it can break the thread.
And the thin one will not save you.

Apparently you really have some kind of strange clutch release.
It's a pity, but you have to disassemble.
It was not possible to win with little blood.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

Reg .: 19.09.2010
Posts: 149
Location: Voronezh-36
Age: 35
Auto: OPEL ASTRA GTC 2010 and VAZ-21213 1998

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

1 The stroke of the slave cylinder starts immediately, but with your foot you only feel the beginning of the pressure of the clutch release lever on the basket. There, the force is several times greater than that of the return spring of the working cylinder.

2 too much free play of the master cylinder rod before triggering (adjustable under the clutch pedal).

3 On the contrary, the free play of the master cylinder rod is too small. At the same time, when the pedal is released, the cuff inside the working cylinder does not move back to the end and fresh liquid does not enter the working area. (But in your case, this is unlikely, otherwise there would be big problems when pumping).

Well, the 4th option is a mowing master cylinder.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

Reg .: 04.09.2012
Posts: 13
Location: Russia, Kazan
Age: 58
Auto: VAZ 21213, 1999

Registration: 27.10.2011
Topics / Posts: 27/2522
Location: Moscow, Sokol district
Age: 49
Auto: HOPE 2120-41 2001 onwards, 1.8; Jac rein

Doesn't it annoy him to take money?
Nobody canceled the guarantee for the work, even from a private master.

Added after 13 minutes 20 seconds:

There is an eerily simple way to bleed the clutch, you can even do it alone.
You need a tube from a windscreen washer or from a dropper, about a meter, maybe a little less and a medical syringe or some kind of small enema.

- With one end you put the tube on the bleeding of the clutch slave cylinder, the other on any bleed nipple of the front left wheel.

- You unscrew both of these fittings and swing the brake pedal, slowly.

In this case, the clutch is pumped “from the bottom up”. You need to pump until air bubbles stop appearing in the clutch expansion tank. The clutch is then bled. Close the fitting and remove the pipe.

- During pumping, the fluid in the clutch expansion tank will be added and in the brake one will decrease, this must be monitored and during the pumping process periodically pour the liquid from one tank into another with a syringe (or enema).
Or drain the fluid from the clutch somewhere, and add fresh to the brake reservoir.

This pumping method is good in that it allows you to bleed the clutch even if the HCC is partially defective, for example, the return spring is broken.

Before bleeding, it is worth checking the free movement of the stem from the cylinder head to the pedal, so that the stem is not clamped. That is, the rod must move at least 3-5 mm before touching the interior (piston) of the cylinder. You can easily feel it with your hand. If necessary, then the adjustment is in the same place, behind the pedal.

A screw driven in with a hammer holds better than a nail screwed in with a screwdriver.

We bleed the clutch hydraulic drive on a VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 car for the same reasons as bleeding the brake system - that is, if there is air in the system, which in turn can be caused by a violation of the sealing due to temporary wear, damage or during various dismantling works ... Prepare a new brake fluid to be added to the system, a standard set of tools, then do the following sequence of actions:

It is most convenient to carry out repair work on an inspection pit, overpass or lifts. First of all, check the connection of all elements of the clutch hydraulic drive, if there are leaks, make the appropriate repairs and only after that you can start bleeding.

Video (click to play).

Remove the protective cap from the working cylinder fitting, then put on a transparent silicone hose on it, and lower the other end of the hose into a container with brake fluid.
Now we loosen the tightening of the union by a few turns.
Next, we put the assistant behind the wheel and ask him to sharply press the clutch pedal and release it smoothly. And so we repeat until a frequent liquid without air bubbles comes out of the hose. Then we twist the fitting and put a cap on it.
Add fluid to the clutch reservoir.

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