In detail: vaz 21213 do-it-yourself repair CV joint replacement from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
We carry out the work when replacing the hinge, its cover and grease.
We remove the drive from the car (see here).
When replacing the cover, clean the hinge from the outside and clamp the shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.
Using the pliers, we squeeze the small clamp by the protrusions and, prying it off with a screwdriver, disconnect it.
Remove the large clamp in the same way.
We move the protective plastic casing and rubber boot along the shaft.
We clean and wipe the end part of the hinge from the old grease.
We knock down the hinge through a drift made of soft metal, striking the end of the clip.
The drift must not transmit force to the cage or balls in order to avoid damage to them.
The hinge is fixed to the shaft with a retaining ring located in the groove at the end of the shaft.
We pry the retaining ring with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the rubber protective cover and the plastic casing.
To replace the thrust washer ...
Install the hinge in reverse order.
When installing the old hinge, we first clean it from grease.
Having cleaned the shaft, we apply a thin layer of new grease SHRUS-4 and put a casing and a new cover on the shaft.
We put 60 cm 3 of SHRUS-4 grease into the hinge cavity.
Press the hinge onto the shaft through a soft metal drift.
We put a cover on the hinge body. We install new clamps (before tightening the clamps, we release excess air from the cover, prying the seat belt of the cover with a screwdriver).
In the article, we examined the removal and installation of front wheel drives in the article - "Replacing front wheel drives." In this article, we will consider replacing the angular velocity joints of the front drive VAZ-21213.
Video (click to play).
We prepare a car for repair. We install on a viewing hole or on a lift.
We remove the drive from the car. We clean the hinge from the outside and clamp it in a vice with soft pads.
Since basically the outer hinge is most often changed, then we will consider this operation first.
1. Using pliers or pliers, squeeze the small clamp by the protrusions and, prying with a screwdriver, disconnect it.
2. Remove the large clamp in the same way. If the protective cover is attached with plastic clamps, then we simply bite off the clamps with the help of side cutters.
3. We move the protective plastic and rubber cover along the shaft. We clean and wipe the end part of the hinge from the old grease.
4. Using a drift made of soft metal or a wooden spacer made of durable wood, knock down the hinge, striking the end of the clip. We take into account that the punch should not transmit force to the cage or balls in order to avoid damage to them. This is in the event that it will be necessary to put this joint again on the shaft.
5. Remove the hinge. The joint is held on the shaft by a circlip located in a groove at the end of the shaft.
6. Retaining ring is usually sold complete with a hinge. Pry off the retaining ring with a thin screwdriver
Since the front suspension and the drive axle of the Niva 2121 are arranged similarly to the front-wheel drive family of the concern, it will not be possible to avoid the breakage of the CV joints. The ending resource is indicated by:
A characteristic crunch when driving with inverted wheels;
Jerks during acceleration;
Increased vibration on the go;
Tapping when overcoming irregularities.
As a rule, the element withstands an emergency condition for a long time. However, in this case, no one will be able to give guarantees when the "grenade" itself or the bearing will fall apart. The total resource is often equal to the total mileage of the car for the entire period of use, but the majority surrenders to 120-130 thousand km.
An increase in the rate of wear is due to the peculiarities of driving (frequent and intense acceleration with the steering wheel turned out), as well as the ingress of sand and dirt through damaged anthers to the bearings.
Depending on the year of manufacture, the Niva 2121 can be equipped with CV joints for 22 or 24 slots. Until 2002, the first option was distributed, after 2002 - the second. According to another version, 22-slot "grenades" were common until 2007.
The correct way to determine the type is to remove the hub tapered washer by hand counting.
Operating experience shows that the best quality "grenades" for Niva are produced by AvtoVAZ, and if you are confident in the origin of the product, it makes sense to pay attention to the products CORAM and Pilenga .
The operation to dismantle the drive elements is possible if:
Jack;
Churbaka;
Balloon key;
Keys 13, 17 and 23 (the first two varieties are doubled);
Slotted screwdrivers;
Drift;
A device for removing clamps from the factory or made of adjustable pliers;
Anthers;
Clamps;
Hub nut;
SHRUS-4M grease;
Rags for wiping off grease;
Kerosene.
On a slightly jacked-up machine, the cap covering the hub is removed, the hub is completely unscrewed and the wheel nuts are loosened.
The wheel is hung out and dismantled.
The lower lever is gently lowered onto a sturdy block of wood.
The nuts holding the ball joint are removed (3 pcs.). The shaft of the outer CV joint is carefully removed from the steering knuckle by pulling the latter back and up.
The steering knuckle is secured with a wire to a suitable lug. The lower mount of the shock absorber is released from the lever, after which it is necessary to raise the jack a few more centimeters up.
Using pliers and a screwdriver, it is necessary to remove the boot clamps of the inner CV joint, as well as the boot itself. Then the retaining ring is removed, located inside the body of the "grenade", the structure is removed from the car.
When the inner "grenade" is in your hands, you should collect the dropped bearings and place all the elements in a bath with kerosene, rinse thoroughly from dirt and old grease.
The shaft is freed from the retaining ring holding the inner race of the joint, as well as the race and cage.
With the help of a puller or modified pliers, the persistent ring is pulled off.
Carefully applying a punch and a hammer along the end of the clip, the hinge is knocked off.
The retaining ring is then removed from the shaft.
All elements are washed in kerosene and cleaned with an iron brush.
After all the parts are defective, replaced with new ones and washed, installed in their places (except for anthers), they are treated with SHRUS-4m grease. Average consumption for outdoor - 60 cm3, indoor - 150 cm3.
It makes sense to use screw clamps instead of standard clamps. Also, at the end of the work, replace the wheel nut with a new one and adjust the bearing clearance.
VIDEO
VIDEO
This method is one of the easiest and fastest ways to replace both anthers or one of them. Also, if necessary, you can replace the grease in the CV joints or an external grenade.
Required tools: a set of open-end wrenches (including 13 and 17 wrenches, 2 pcs.), Variable-pitch pliers or just very large pliers, two flat screwdrivers - medium and thin, a hammer 600-800 g, a good punch from soft metal or SHRUS puller, large or medium-sized vise (or an assistant), SHRUS-4 grease, a sufficient amount of wiping material, a plastic bag, a support for the lower arm of the front suspension. Desirable - a viewing hole.
We install the car on the handbrake, you also need to install any anti-rollbacks under the rear wheels. We loosen the wheel nuts, jack, remove the wheel. We substitute a reliable stop under the lower arm (I use a stack of short boards). We lower the jack, the lever is compressed. We unscrew the nuts and take out the three bolts securing the lower ball joint.We unscrew the lower mount of the shock absorber and press it all the way up:
We knock down the chrome-plated hub cap through a wooden block. We unscrew the hub nut, having previously substituted a stop under the wheel stud (a hammer, for example) so that the hub does not spin (you can loosen the nut at the very beginning, but it is not so convenient to remove the cap). We take out the conical washer. Grasping the bottom of the brake disc, we pull it towards ourselves and set it aside, while simultaneously removing the grenade axis from the hub. We put the released CV joint, as convenient, on the lower cup.
We go down into the pit. Turning the CV joint by hand, we find a convenient position to grip the clamp protrusions with pliers:
We squeeze the clamp and with a screwdriver slightly bend the hook, remove it. We make marks on the body of the grenade and the shaft (with paint, or with a file - the main thing is not to get stuck), so that then we insert the CV joint in the same way as it was, we remember the position well. We move the freed anther away from the grenade as much as possible.
With our finger we grope for the wire retaining ring inside the SHRUS housing a, it is in the groove at the very edge, we find the break in the ring by touch, and prying it out with a thin screwdriver:
Pull the SHRUS out of the housing by the shaft:
If you do not need to change the lubricant, you can put a plastic bag on the CV joint and wrap it in order to prevent the balls from falling out and dirt (the balls are held only by lubrication).
We leave the pit and carefully take out the released part:
We wash off the dirt. We remove the remaining clamps and cut off the anthers that need to be replaced:
We shift the plastic casing and the boot of the outer grenade to the inner CV joint y. So that they do not interfere further, you can wrap them in a bag and secure them. We clamp the shaft in a vice with the outer hinge to the bottom, remove excess grease.
Now we need to knock down or press the inner cage assembly with the hinge off the shaft. The radial protrusions shown with a screwdriver are the curly inner cage of the CV joint a:
Theory. The inner cage of the SHRUS a is fixed on the shaft with two retaining rings: the outer (at the very end of the shaft) of circular cross-section; and inner, square section (it is slightly visible in the previous photo between the inner cage and the shaft). When knocked down, the cage with a tapered groove should squeeze the outer ring, sink it into the shaft groove and move further. If the impact energy is insufficient, the ring will be released again and the clip will return to its original position.
Option 1. Using a soft metal drift and a hammer, lightly tap the clip around the circumference to center the outer ring, then, setting the drift as close to the shaft as possible, knock it down (you can hold it at a slight angle, it's not scary). Ideally, an assistant pulls the hinge shaft downwards. The blow should be strong enough and “long” - using all the inertia of the hammer. 400 g. I managed to knock down with a hammer only 4 times, although I hit from the entire shoulder - better a heavier hammer. If it does not go astray, the force of the blow must be increased, the quantity here cannot be taken.
Option 2. We use a puller. I bought it on the way to the garage, especially for the FAQ, 160 rubles, on the price tag there was a “CV joint remover 2108”. To be honest, I didn't want to show the barbarian drift that I had used before. There were vague concerns about the puller, but as it turned out, in vain, I liked working with him, I was so carried away by the new toy that I forgot to take a picture before taking it off:
Remove the outer ring. Then we carefully remove the inner ring from the groove:
We loosen the vice and tighten the ring with light hammer blows on the shaft. The outer groove is narrower, the ring will not get stuck there:
As you can see, the rings and shaft are not damaged:
If it is necessary to change the lubricant, we wash everything. The outer CV joint can be flushed out without disassembly, although it takes a long time. It can be disassembled, for this it is necessary to mark with paint the relative position of the outer casing (body), separator and inner casing. Then turn the separator and the inner cage until the first ball comes out, get it, and then in the same way get everything in turn.Then tilt the separator with the cage at 90 degrees, and, having caught the position, pull it out together with the inner cage. Rinse, assemble the outer hinge and put in the housings of the inner and outer hinges the grease “SHRUS -4”, 150 and 60 cc each. respectively.
Lightly grease the shaft and put on the anthers and cover. We clamp the shaft in a vice and put both retaining rings:
We install the hinge on the shaft, and, having felt the splines, we lower it until it touches the outer retaining ring:
Using a hammer, preferably through a soft metal spacer, we hit the SHRUS shaft and put it in place (do not try to screw the hub or other nuts on the thread - either spoil the nut or the thread). Using our hands, we check the fixation of the hinge in both directions. I didn't have a soft spacer, so I scored like this, after three strong enough blows, as we see, nothing happened to the shaft - the metal is hard:
We put the anthers in place (the place where the clamps are installed on the shaft corresponds to the deepest groove). We put the clamps in such a way that when moving forward, grass does not cling to them (that is, along the wool). The effort has to be made serious:
We install the finished product on the car, in the reverse order of removal.
All comments and so on can be sent to the Niva 4x4 forum / General technical section / It's time to change the CV joints.
All front wheel drive vehicles are equipped with a CV joint. It transfers torque from the gearbox to the front wheel axles. Most often it is used in conjunction with independent suspension. However, on all VAZ cars with front-wheel drive, you can find a CV joint, which for all cars will be almost the same. If there are any differences in the structure of the part, then its replacement will be carried out according to the same scheme.
Important! If you decide to completely replace the CV joint on your own or change its individual parts, you need to understand its design, and only then dismantle and then replace it.
Replacing the CV joint is an expensive procedure, which in the service center will significantly affect the thickness of the car owner's wallet. The part is made of heavy-duty materials that are resistant to mechanical stress and aggressive environment. Accordingly, these materials, like the part itself, are quite expensive. It is designed for long-term operation, but the road conditions and the driving style of the drivers themselves do not always allow them to operate all parts of the chassis for many years without the slightest damage.
And the cost of replacing the CV joint will leave about half the cost of the mechanism. That is why many are trying to replace it on their own in order to save some of the money on repairs. But not everyone is born auto mechanics, so a common man in the street must first find out what parts the mechanism consists of. Here is a list of them:
separator;
balloons;
fist;
frame;
outer and inner anthers.
Anthers perform two functions at once, they protect the hinge from dust and dirt. Indeed, in fact, the CV joint is an external part that is located on the bottom of the car. This means that when driving, all small particles fall on the hinges in the same way as on the rest of the chassis.
On each wheel drive, there are two mechanisms, which have practically the same structure, only slightly differ in shape and size. As a rule, the left and right CV joints are interchangeable on most car models. If you are in doubt, it is better to drive up to a car service and ask if it is possible to buy left-hand hinges for right-hand drive on such and such a VAZ model for installation on a right-hand drive, well, or vice versa.
Sometimes the entire mechanism requires repair, but more often it is the outer one that has worn out, and the inner one, as a rule, is practically eternal. But sometimes, and he may require replacement.
The design of the mechanism is not that complicated. The separator scrolls the balls, which are located in the grooves of the knuckle and the outer housing. All this is covered by anthers, which protect the parts from dirt and dust, as well as from the leakage of lubricant.When replacing the most difficult thing is to dismantle the mechanism itself so that you can install a new one entirely or change its individual parts.
First, you need to raise the car on a jack and see if the boot is cracked. If there is visible damage in it, then a large amount of dirt has probably collected inside, which will cause an unpleasant crunch when cornering and starting with turned wheels.
As a rule, in this case, it is enough to clean and rinse the internal parts with gasoline, lubricate them, and reassemble them. In addition to lubrication, you will also need to change the anthers to new ones. But if you operate a car with dirt inside the CV joints for a long time, this can lead to their complete failure, which is why at the slightest crunch you need to immediately sound the alarm. Do not forget that replacing the CV joint with a VAZ 2110 or any other car model will cost about 1,500 rubles, this cost is only for a part.
There is a proven way to diagnose hinge wear. To do this, you can "start" with the wheels turned out, if at the same time a clear crunch is felt in the front of the chassis, then they will have to be changed. For complete reliability, you can still spin on the car or start with slightly turned wheels. You will immediately feel whether the left or right mechanism crunches. If - both, then you will have to raise the car on a jack and determine in which of them there is a backlash. If both hinges are luffy, you need to prepare for decent expenses.
Signs of wear will be visible if the vehicle is jacked up on the side where the crunch is heard. Then you need to grab the drive with your hand and shake it in different directions. If you feel a significant backlash, the bearings are definitely worn out, and you can get ready to buy a new CV joint.
Despite the fact that many motorists are not even aware of the presence of such a part in their car, as a rule, they themselves are the culprits of its breakdown.
It must be remembered that aggressive driving is the first cause of joint failure. In particular, these are constant abrupt starts with inverted wheels and driving in reverse with the same steering wheel position. In addition, we need to remember which roads we often have to drive. If rough terrain is normal driving conditions, the anthers should be checked more often than usual. In addition, the timely replacement of the lubricant in the CV joints is the key to their long-term operation.
Aggressive driving, as you know, is also a sharp start. They are the reason for overheating of the CV joints, and where high temperatures are - increased wear of parts, from what high-strength materials they are made.
As already mentioned, all hinges for VAZs have one device and are practically no different. The replacement of this part will be done in the same way.
It includes dismantling and installing a new one. Further, detailed instructions for replacing the inner and outer CV joints will be provided.
While the machine is still on its wheels, loosen and rip off the hub nut. To make it easier, it turns out, you need someone to press the brake pedal.
We lift the car with a jack. This is done in order to get to the lower ball joint.
We knock down all the bolts of the lower ball.
With the help of a chisel (you can also use a hammer), we release the CV joint from the hub, for this you will have to make some effort.
Next, you need to free the part from the boot by unscrewing the nuts of both clamps that hold it.
We take out the CV joint along with the drive assembly.
After that, the drive must be clamped in a vice so that the hinge can be released from it. Next, we perform the following actions:
We turn the boot inside out or push it aside until it stops.
We hit the cage with a hammer, in no case touching the separator, otherwise the internal parts of the hinges can be damaged.
After that, the CV joint remains in your hands.
Here is a video with the replacement of the external and internal SHRUS on the VAZ 2110:
VIDEO
And this is a video on replacing the CV joint on the NIVE:
VIDEO
From the video data, we can conclude that the procedures are practically the same.
If we talk about other models of front-wheel drive cars, even from foreign manufacturers, then the replacement of this part will look practically unchanged, with the exception of minor nuances during disassembly.
In this situation, the most difficult thing is to dismantle the drive together with the hinges in order to make the subsequent replacement of the outer SHRUS or the inner one, depending on the condition of both parts.
If you only need to replace the boot, then this operation will need to be done anyway, since remove the unnecessary one, and then install a new boot without removing the CV joint from the drive.
If you change the old CV joint for a new one, you need to take care of the presence of grease in it. The outer joint must contain at least 40 cm3 of SHRUS grease, and the inner one - at least 80 cm3. As a rule, new mechanisms are commercially available without lubrication. Therefore, you need to thoroughly lubricate all the parts, then fill all the cavities well with grease, and only after that - mount in place.
A new or flushed hinge with fresh grease is assembled in reverse order using the same tools and fixtures.
For example, replacing a CV joint bearing with Chery Tigo will not differ in the order of actions from the same process performed on NIVE.
All these actions can be performed without having a lot of experience in car repair. The main thing is to follow the instructions and love your car.
The most common transmission problem on Niva cars is failure of CV joints drive. The first symptoms may be minor , in the form of the appearance slight crunch at the beginning of the movement with the steering wheel turned inside out.
If you do not replace the CV joint on the Niva during the time, the consequences can be dire, up to the fact that while driving you will jam the drive with all the ensuing consequences. To avoid this, it is necessary to replace the hinges in a timely manner, and also constantly monitor the presence of grease in them.
So, to replace you need at least the following tool:
Head 13, 27 mm
Ratchet and crank
Extension
Hammer
Chisel or flat screwdriver
Jack
Balloon wrench
As for the procedure for performing repairs, we will give the main points below:
First of all, we raise the car with a jack (it is also desirable that it be in the inspection pit).
Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock down the protective cap of the hub nut and unscrew it.
With a 13 key, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Now you can remove the drive shaft from the front wheel hub of the Niva. And to remove / replace the outer CV joint, take out the retaining ring.
To release the inner one, you must first unscrew the three nuts securing the pressure plate.
Then we pry the plate with a screwdriver or a sharp chisel, and take out the inner CV joint from the front axle gearbox housing.
Since the space between the shock absorber and the front suspension spring is minimal, it is not very convenient to pull out the actuator assembly, so it can be disconnected.
If necessary, defective CV joints are knocked down and new ones are installed in their place in the reverse order.
It is imperative to apply grease, such as CV joints, to each of the grenades and securely fix the anther clamps.
The assembled drive is installed on the Niva in the reverse order.
To familiarize yourself with the difficulties that will await you when you have to remove the front drive shaft, watch the video:
Removing the drive shaft and replacing the inner CV joint on the Niva or replacing the drive assembly
The price of new complete actuators starts at 3000 for one. If we consider the SHRUS separately, then for the inner one you will have to pay from 900 rubles, and for the outer one from 1600 rubles and above. The final price depends on the place of purchase and the manufacturer.
A distinctive feature of Niva cars, both the usual VAZ 2121 and Chevrolet, is the presence of CV joints for the front axle drives.In fact, the design is quite similar to any front-wheel drive VAZ.
As with any other car, grenade malfunctions immediately make themselves felt. And the first thing that will be a symptom is:
the appearance of clicks when starting and abrupt stopping
the appearance of a crunch when starting off with the steering wheel turned all the way
crunching even when driving in a straight line at high speed - especially when hitting smooth bumps in the road
Many Niva owners are accustomed to entrusting such repair work to specialists at the service station, but everything can be done in garage conditions, having at hand a list of the necessary tools.
Well, then everything is done in the following order:
Remove the wheel by first lifting the front of the car with a jack
We unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the lever to release it
We unscrew the hub nut and remove the CV joint from the hub
For greater accessibility, it is better to remove the drive assembly: pry the internal grenade with a mount and pull it out
After that, the entire drive assembly is removed.
Clamping the drive in a vice
With the help of special pliers, we get rid of the anther clamps (if necessary, we change them later with new ones)
With light blows of a hammer we knock down the desired CV joint from the drive, applying the impact force to the outer cage
Usually, after a couple of light blows, the CV joint gets lost without any problems and you can replace it with a new one. Once again, it is worth noting that it is better to inspect the boot for damage and, if necessary, also change it to a new one.
A new CV joint is stuffed in the same way, until the retaining ring clicks.
It is worth noting that as a result of the assembly of the drives, it is necessary to push grease into the inner part of the CV joint, such as CV joint or lithol (in extreme cases). If this is not done, then wear will occur much faster than with the required amount of lubricant. Also, pay attention to the integrity of the protective anthers of both the inner and outer grenades. If you see that the boot is damaged, replacing it with a new one is mandatory.
Installation on the vehicle is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Also, do not forget to install all the removed parts during the repair process.
The price of a new inner CV joint is from 800 rubles, but the outer one will cost almost twice as much: from 1400 rubles. If we consider the purchase of complete drives, then one can cost you at least 3,500 rubles, and a couple, of course, about 7,000 rubles.
We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or a lift.
We show the operations using the example of the right drive of the VAZ 2121 - its dismantling is more laborious. We drain the oil from the front axle gearbox (see Changing the oil in the front axle gearbox). We unscrew the adjusting nut of the hub bearings and remove the tapered bushing (see Replacing the hub bearings). Disconnect the lower mount of the Niva 2121 shock absorber from the support spring cup of the lower arm (see Removing the shock absorber). Disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower arm of the front suspension (see Removing the lower ball joint).
We move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the outer hinge housing from the hub.
The gasket is asymmetrical, therefore it is installed on the gearbox crankcase studs only in one position.
We remove the left drive in the same way, except that three nuts ...
Install the drive in reverse order.
Front wheel drives Niva 2121, Niva 2131
Front wheel drive design Niva 2121, Niva 2131
Removal and installation of front wheel drives Niva 2121, Niva 2131
Removal and installation of the external hinge Niva 2121, Niva 2131
Replacing the inner drive joint Niva 2121, Niva 2131
Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.
We remove the front wheel drives during repair work or in the event of malfunctions such as:
- noise, knocking from the front axle when the car is moving (especially when cornering), usually this defect is associated with wear of parts of the outer hinge, less often the inner one;
- deformation of the shafts of the shaft drives, the defect is caused by impacts on obstacles;
- grease leakage due to rupture of the protective cover of the inner or outer hinge.
Work must be carried out on a viewing pit or lift.
We show the operations on the example of a right-hand drive - its dismantling is more laborious.
We drain the oil from the front axle gearbox.
We unscrew the adjusting nut of the hub bearings and remove the tapered bushing. Disconnect the lower shock absorber mount from the lower arm spring support cup.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower arm of the front suspension.
1. Move the steering knuckle to the side and remove the shank of the outer hinge housing from the hub.
2. Using a 19 spanner wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the front axle bracket to the right bracket of the power unit support
4. Using a 13-point head, unscrew the nuts securing the front axle bracket and the bearing cap of the inner hinge housing to the gearbox housing.
5. We remove the front axle mounting bracket
6. We pry the bearing cover of the inner hinge housing with a mounting spade for the tides
7. We remove the housing of the internal hinge from the gearbox
9. The connection between the bearing cover and the gear housing is sealed with a gasket (the gasket is installed in one position).
10. We remove the drive on the left side in the same way, only there three nuts fasten only the bearing cover.
Install the drive in reverse order.
The nut for fastening the bearing cover of the inner hinge housing M6x1.25 is tightened with a torque of 19.6-24.5 Nm (2.0-2.5 kgf · m).
We tighten the adjusting nut of the hub bearings with a torque of 19.6 Nm (2.0 kgf · m), while turning the hub in both directions. After that, we loosen the adjusting nut and tighten it again with a torque of 6.86 Nm (0.7 kgf · m). Then lower the nut by 20-25˚. We check the bearing clearance: it should be within 0.02-0.08 mm. Let's stop the nut.
Do-it-yourself CV joint replacement on Niva 2121. Instructions on how to change the inner and outer CV joints of a Niva 4x4 car
The most common transmission problem on Niva cars is the failure of the drive CV joints. The first symptoms may be minor, in the form of a small crunching sound at the beginning of a drive with an inverted steering wheel.
If you do not replace the CV joint on the Niva during the time, the consequences can be dire, up to the fact that while driving you will jam the drive with all the ensuing consequences. To avoid this, it is necessary to replace the hinges in a timely manner, and also constantly monitor the presence of grease in them.
So, to replace you need at least the following tool:
Head 13, 27 mm
Ratchet and crank
Extension
Hammer
Chisel or flat screwdriver
Jack
Balloon wrench
As for the procedure for performing repairs, we will give the main points below:
First of all, we raise the car with a jack (it is also desirable that it be in the inspection pit).
Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock down the protective cap of the hub nut and unscrew it.
With a 13 key, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Now you can remove the drive shaft from the front wheel hub of the Niva. And to remove / replace the outer CV joint, take out the retaining ring.
To release the inner one, you must first unscrew the three nuts securing the pressure plate.
Then we pry the plate with a screwdriver or a sharp chisel, and pull out the inner CV joint from the front axle gearbox housing.
Since the space between the shock absorber and the front suspension spring is minimal, it is not very convenient to pull out the actuator assembly, so it can be disconnected.
If necessary, defective CV joints are knocked down and new ones are installed in their place in the reverse order.
It is imperative to apply grease, such as CV joints, to each of the grenades and securely fix the anther clamps.
The assembled drive is installed on the Niva in the reverse order.
It should be borne in mind that if you remove both drives at once. It is imperative that on one of the sides there must be either an internal drive or a plug of a suitable diameter.
To familiarize yourself with the difficulties that will await you when you have to remove the front drive shaft, watch the video:
Removing the drive shaft and replacing the inner CV joint on the Niva or replacing the drive assembly
The price of new complete actuators starts at 3000 for one. If we consider the SHRUS separately, then for the inner one you will have to pay from 900 rubles, and for the outer one from 1600 rubles and above. The final price depends on the place of purchase and the manufacturer.
DIY Niva repair portal
Ask in the comments. We will definitely answer!
The front wheel drives on the VAZ 2121 and Niva 2131 are removed to replace them in case of failure. As a rule, the cause can be either deformation, damage to constant velocity joints (CV joints) or damage to rubber boots. When operating a car, special attention should be paid to the condition of the anthers, if they are damaged, then through a breakthrough, dirt can get into the grease, which, in turn, mixing with it, begins to work on the principle of sandpaper and as a result, the permissible gaps increase, a knock appears, rattling when turning, up to its full departure.
The main symptom indicating a malfunction of the drive, with the exception of damage to the anthers, is the appearance of a characteristic grinding and knocking, first with full twisting of the steering wheel, then with a weaker and up to a straight-line state.
Prepare a standard set of tools, then do the following sequence of actions:
First of all, it is necessary to drain the oil from the front axle gearbox.
Now you need to remove the tapered bushing by unscrewing the hub bearing adjusting nut.
Next, we disconnect the lower shock absorber mount (see How to remove the front shock absorbers), and then disconnect the lower ball joint from the lever.
Now nothing bothers us and we can move the steering knuckle a little to the side, thereby removing the outer drive shank from the wheel hub.
Next, with a nineteen spanner wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the front axle bracket to the right bracket for attaching the power unit.
We take out the bolt from its seat. Then, with a socket head thirteen, unscrew the three nuts securing the front axle bracket and the bearing cap of the inner hinge housing.
Now, when nothing interferes, we move the bracket to the side and pry the bearing cover of the housing with a small mounting spade for special tides made on the housing.
Carefully remove the inner hinge housing from the axle gearbox and remove the wheel drive.
The connection between the cover and the gearbox housing is sealed with a gasket. Please note that it is not symmetrical and can only be installed in one position.
Removal and replacement of the left drive is carried out identically.
This completes the repair work on the removal of the front wheel drives on the VAZ 2121 Niva 2131 car. Having completed the necessary repair or replacement, we carry out the installation in the reverse order.
We carry out the work when replacing the hinge, its cover and grease.
We remove the drive from the VAZ 2121 car (see Removing the front wheel drives). We clamp the Niva 2121 drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.
Having removed the clamps, we move the cover along the shaft.
... and take it off.We mark the relative positions of the body, separator and cage.
We wash the body, separator, clip and balls. Traces of corrosion, scoring and dents on the tracks are not allowed. If they are found, we replace the hinge of the vaz 2121. We assemble the hinge of the vaz 2131 in the reverse order. When assembling, we install a new retaining ring and a rubber boot on the Niva 2131 shaft. We put 150 cm3 of SHRUS-4 grease into the hinge. We install new clamps (before tightening the clamps, we release excess air from the cover, prying the seat belt of the cover with a screwdriver).
Video (click to play).
Front wheel drives Niva 2121, Niva 2131
