Repair of washing machines VEKO in St. Petersburg 945-26-18.
If the washing machine makes a lot of noise during spinning, most likely it's time to replace the bearings in it. I do not recommend washing with such a noise, because this will lead to wear of the copper sleeve that the oil seal compresses. If grooves form on the bushing, then the drum spider will also have to be changed.
To replace the bearing in the Beko washing machine, you need to disassemble its body. The machine is disassembled from the front. First, detach the lower decorative panel and separate the hatch seal and the lock of its door from the front wall. The design of Beko machines, unlike many other models, allows in some cases to do without completely removing the tank from the body. And the disassembly of the case itself is much easier. Unless major repairs and parts of the loose bearings are required, the drum can be removed from the back of the tank, leaving it in place and removing only the front cover. This simplifies the work of the technician and shortens the repair time.
To disassemble the tank, remove the front panel and the lower tank counterweight. Next, remove the tubes and wires that fit to the front of the tank, as well as 12 clamps, with which the front cover of the tank is attached to its main part, and remove it. Then, after removing the back cover of the machine body, disconnect the belt and pulley and remove the drum. The bearing unit is pressed into the tank and consists of two bearings of different diameters (203 and 204) and an oil seal 25 * 50 * 10, located in a common glass. They put new bearings and assemble the machine. Finally, the build quality is checked.
In especially difficult cases, the main (rear) part of the tank must be removed entirely so that it can be worked with separately (knock out stuck bearings, for example). To do this, it is necessary to disassemble the machine much more completely - remove the upper case cover, detergent dispenser, control panel, disconnect the remaining wires and tubes, shock absorbers and springs from the tank. Sometimes it is really necessary, then the work of the master is added.
VIDEO
What kind of cross are we talking about? what is this?
when draining the noise of the motor is not constant and time hangs
CLOWN SO NO ONE DOES
Vladimir, thank you for your all 3 tutorials. It was helpful for BEKO 6510M to replace the heater. THANKS!
THANKS for the ADVICE. eyelid machine wkd 65080 2008 for replacing bearings and an oil seal request for repairs from 3800 to 5000 p. (disassembly, diagnostics, repair, assembly) My costs: bearings 6203zz (17 * 40 * 12skf = 330 rubles) + 6204zz (20 * 47 * 14 = 370 rubles), oil seal (25 * 50 * 10 = 250 rubles), lubrication oil seal 80 rubles. (but you need to take two syringes) + sealant280 r.
total about 1400, REPAIR REQUESTS 4-5 thousand rubles. THANKS TO YOU, REPAIRED IN 3 HOURS without equipment (disassembly, trip for spare parts, cleaning shit from the drum, assembling. SAVING FROM 2500 rubles. THANKS AGAIN.
too fucking unnecessary information. for 10min already fucking look, catch the diz.
thanks for the detailed video.
Hello.
The couple does not hold a sealant. Water seeps out.
Thank you to the creators of the video this is how you need to make the video and it's a no brainer I'm at home to Siba and the mother-in-law of the mashins did one, thank you, the video is super
Vladimir lay out the second part first to make viewing more convenient.
bullshit, you have to cut it entirely
can any of the subscribers if you know, tell me.
+ Vladimir Khatuntsev (Master-Plus) Hello, advise QUIET! the size of the washing machine should be 60 to 30 for the money it does not matter, advise pliz. the noise from the pissing indesite has already remained)
the bolts of the lower load are torn off, or even when they are tightened, they break off
Volodya, hello. Already went with non-separable tanks, I already came across
and from which machine can the crosspiece be fitted to it?
Thanks for the video, I changed the bearings myself, knocked out the Zhiguli with an old candle wrench, pressed them in with the removed bearings, while disassembling I had a bite on the thermostat wire, because he was without a terminal, after that he simply twisted the wire, now the heating element does not turn off by itself, can the twist be soldered? hair clipper BEKO wb 6108se
Kind time of the day, I have a problem with Beko. In general, the command apparatus does not switch programs, well, not all of them often have to be helped by hand, are the command apparatus being repaired or are they simply changed and that's it? just another problem is that I did not find this in my city, and you cannot order because the mail does not work ((
Guys, thanks for the vidos. I not only had a hum from the bearings, there was already such a backlash. When you spin that and look, the neighbors will run away. By the way, I have never done anything like that, I thought I’ll sort it out with a friend. A friend had everything once - he took it apart himself. So I went from the computer to the bath, I'll look a little bit and take it apart again. Without any problems, everything was unscrewed, sorted out, knocked out. I bought everything in a store in Vologda and hammered everything slowly with a hammer through an extension cord along the outer cage. In general, everything is okay. Thanks again.
Cool, the main thing is that he showed all the small chips, because of which you can spend a long time not knowing where to climb.
reviewed your video, ordered two bearings from you, salieik and lubricant, two hours of time, a bunch of swearing words. and everything worked out for me. thank you very much. there were two problems, two sour self-tapping screws, I had to drill out and did not want to leave the drum. decided very simply. screwed in a bolt without that big propeller, knocked on it with a hammer, came out like clockwork. thanks again. beko 3500m machine, if you have any questions, ask. like)
Thank you, great video! Everything is detailed, sensible, understandable!
Like a finger into the pulley. Once it was very painful for me too
I read the comments and am convinced once again that the psyche of people is bad. They themselves do not do anything, but advice is dark.
Thank you very much, I would even thank you.
Well done guy. Competently, definitely positive.
MASTER PLUS, thanks for the video. A year ago I repaired such a car (Rainford RWM 1001 N). BUT worked silently for a year. Probably the hucksters sold shitty bearings. Tell me what bearing numbers and manufacturer.
Was the powder receptacle difficult to remove from the side?
in my opinion it's time to send this machine to the landfill already
tell eyelid bearing and oil seals are the same for all models I have an eyelid wkd24500T
Oh, yak tsikavo, shukavin the information on the repair of your car and natrap on svіzhe video, all from your fellow countrymen.
If you will be brutally respectful to your opinion before the commentary on how to replace the bearings, see here, judging from everything, imagine an online store and a repair shop, you will not be able to get the word out. Could bi date information yak simply lead the author, but more simply to see that comment, kozen has the right to his thought.
There is no concept of replacing bearings. There is a major overhaul. And if done correctly, the machine will work for a long time. Bearings are being changed by greedy customers and ass-handed craftsmen. In addition to the bearings, there are a lot of things that need to be tidied up so that the washing machine works as long as before. Do not look at this shit, but contact a reliable specialist. Correct repair costs one and a half to two hundred dollars in total, and the machine will work for many years.
The masters claim that the VEKO machines are equipped with not very high-quality parts, which include a management board, a temperature sensor, and a relay. The repair of such machines does not always justify itself, and the consumer is forced to purchase a new washing machine. But sometimes the problems are not too serious, it is quite possible to eliminate them on our own. So it is worthwhile to deal with typical failures and understand how the repair of Beko washing machines is carried out.
Professional repairmen of washing machines can, after observing the working equipment, name a unit or element that has failed or will soon break down and will require repair. Everything is simple - problems have begun with a washing machine, you immediately need to call a specialist and a workshop so that he can identify the cause and, with a successful combination of circumstances, carry out repairs on the spot. It seems that everything is easy and simple, and there is no headache. Yes, and such an act in some situations is fully justified.
But there is one caveat - a call to the master's house will cost you a tidy sum. It often happens that paying for repair services is more expensive than purchasing a new automatic washing machine. It is a shame to pay money in this case, especially when there is no opportunity to quickly make a new purchase. But there is one way out - to carry out the repair with your own hands. True, you will have to correctly determine the failure, and the main signs of breakdowns will help in this:
there is no water heating, or it heats up very much, violating the set temperature regime;
water enters the tank for a long time, or does not drain at all;
the door does not close tightly, which does not allow starting the washing process;
after the process, the waste water does not go into the sewer, the machine hums strongly;
when the drum rotates, a strong grinding, clanging and other extraneous noises are heard;
not a single program starts, because after switching on, all the lights on the panel blink. The second option - the program can be exposed, but not activated;
the washing machine from the start button does not turn on;
the display shows an error code.
If you notice that the washing process takes place in cold water, violating the set program, you can suspect a breakdown of the heating element or the control board. A similar conclusion is reached when the water overheats, practically reaching the boiling point. Most likely, the whole problem is in the board, but the heating element also needs to be checked.
After starting the program, water should begin to flow into the tub for washing, and the intensity of this process depends on the set program. But when you do not visually observe the water in the tank, and the drum rotates with dry things, or after a while the machine simply “freezes”, then you should look for one of the following reasons:
there is no water in the water supply;
clogging of the filter located at the base of the intake hose;
the water intake valve has failed;
breakdown of the control unit.
The BEKO machine is designed in such a way that it will never start washing until the door is closed tightly and a special sensor-blocker sends the required signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close at all, or it seems to be closed, but the wash has not started, it is necessary to inspect the blockage.It may have broken down and cannot hold the door. The second problem is the sensor itself. If it's all about the latch, try pushing lightly on the hatch and try to activate the wash program.
When the washing process is completed, the machine must drain the dirty water and draw in fresh water in order to rinse. This process is accompanied by a hum produced by the drain pump. The water is drained out quickly enough, then the machine takes in a new amount of liquid. But if some time has passed, and the washing machine has not drained the waste water and "hangs", or the pump hums, but the water does not come off, then problems should be looked for in:
water drain pump;
a board responsible for managing processes;
a blockage in the drain hose or sewer pipe.
When the washing machine emits a characteristic clang, rattle and knock during operation, it is quite possible that the bearings are out of order, or a foreign object has got into the tank, getting stuck between it and the drum. In this case, the machine should be turned off immediately and all measures should be taken to fix the problem.
The SMA may not turn on at all, or it blinks with all the lights, and turning it on again does not give a positive result. In this case, the problems may be related to:
breakage of the starting button of the machine;
failure of the management block;
a break in the power cord.
The best option is when the washing machine not only refuses to work, but gives out a certain error code. With its help, you can immediately understand what the problem is.
Let's figure out how to repair Beko washing machines on our own.
You should be aware that after washing on a machine, the waste water is not clean and transparent. To prevent various small debris and dirt from clogging the pump, a special filter is installed in front of it, which in most cases becomes clogged. The main task is to find this element, which is usually located at the bottom of the machine, under a small hatch or panel.
Further actions should take place in the following sequence:
To cope with such a failure, you will have to partially disassemble the washing machine again. But first, it should be noted that in all machines, the thermoelectric heater is among the weakest units. People call it a simple word - heating element. The mineral components in the pipes under the influence of hot water begin to crystallize and accumulate on the heater with ordinary scale. Plaque does not allow heat to pass to the water, so the heating element burns out. But if the water in the pipes is soft, and scale does not appear, or you use special means, then the heating element is still able to burn out, since it has its own working resource.
In order to be sure exactly what happened to the heating element, you need to get to it. The peculiarity is that in different models it is located both in the front and in the back. For the first case, the actions are as follows:
the front panel of the machine is removed. But first it is necessary to remove the cuff from the door. You must act carefully so as not to damage it;
in front of you there will be two contacts with wiring connected to them, which must be disconnected;
using a tester, you need to check the resistance. At the norm, its value will be from 25 to 30 ohms. In other cases, we can confidently assume that the heating element has failed;
unscrew the nut holding the heating element under the drum from the bolt, carefully pull out the heating element;
we clean the place for its installation from plaque and accumulated debris;
we install a new analogue, connect the wires.
If the heating device is working properly, check the temperature sensor located under the top panel.
unscrew the screws and remove the top panel;
the sensor is dismantled along with the detergent tray and the control panel, since all this creates obstacles in order to get to the element of interest to us;
having opened access to the sensor, it is necessary to disconnect all wires from it;
check the resistance. Normally, it should be 4.7 kOhm;
the sensor must be held in a container with warm water - the resistance indicator should decrease. Otherwise, the element must be replaced;
the new sensor is installed in place, all work is carried out in reverse order.
VIDEO
DIY electrical and electronics repair.
If you have special knowledge and the necessary experience in the repair of electrical appliances, then you can eliminate contact breakage or terminal oxidation rather quickly. All that is required is the electrical wiring diagram of the machine, which can be found in the instruction manual.
But with electronics, not everything is so simple. Repairing or replacing the management board requires specialized knowledge and experience. Considering the cost of a new module, you should not try to repair it yourself. It is better in this case to invite a master who will do everything himself.
Vibration of the washing machine.
During the operation of the unit for washing things, in particular - during the spinning cycle, the machine gives out a strong vibration, starts "jumping" in different directions. Pay attention to how much laundry is loaded. Vibration is possible if the maximum rate is exceeded. Another recommendation is to check how correctly the support legs of the MCA are set. They are leveled so that the apparatus does not wobble. Experts advise using special stands when installing the machine.
As a result, we can conclude that the BEKO washing machine is quite reliable, but it is also capable of breaking. Calling a foreman can be quite expensive, so you need to try to carry out the repair work yourself.
Be aware that if you are a user of a Beko washing machine with a maximum load of five kilograms, then all its faults will be similar to models designed for three kilograms of things. And in order for the machine to work flawlessly for a long time, we recommend that you carefully study the requirements of the operating instructions and follow all of its rules.
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Unscrew the two screws securing the cover to the case;
Remove the cover by sliding it back and then lifting it up.
- Remove the five screws securing the cover to the body;
- Tilt the cover 90 ° in relation to the body and release it from the slots.
Turn the panel fixing screws 90 ° to the left and remove it.
By pressing the button for opening the hatch door, open the hatch;
Using pliers, remove the clamps with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel (Fig. 1);
Rice. one. Removing the hatch door seal
Separate the hatch seal from the front panel;
Unscrew the two screws that secure the hatch door lock to the front panel (pos. b in fig. one);
Remove the lower decorative panel;
Unscrew the screws with which the front panel is attached to the machine body (Fig. 2);
Rice. 2. Front panel fixing screws
By sliding the front panel down, separate it from the machine body (Fig. 3).
Rice. 3 ... Removing the front panel
By pressing the button for opening the hatch door, open the hatch;
Unscrew the two screws that secure the hatch door to the hinge.
Remove the hatch door;
Insert the slot of a flat screwdriver into the gap from the hinge side and remove the inner rim from the clamps fixing it.
Remove the hatch door and inner rim;
Remove the two screws on the inner rim;
Remove the latch clip from the axle on the inner rim of the door.
Remove the hatch door;
Remove the clamp with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel;
Remove the hatch seal;
Unscrew the two screws that secure the hinge to the front panel (pos. With in fig. one).
Remove both handles by pulling them towards you (when reassembling, pay attention to the position of the thermostat axis).
Pull out the detergent hopper;
By clicking on the siphon, the bunker is completely removed;
Turning the hopper over, remove the panel by pressing the fixing latches with a screwdriver.
Remove the detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Unscrew the screw fixing the control panel (pos. a , rice. 4);
Remove the control panel from the clamps securing it to the carrier panel.
Rice. 4. Control panel fixing screw
Remove the top cover and control panel;
Unscrew the screws securing the detergent dispenser, disconnect the electrical wires suitable for the carrier panel;
Unscrew the 6 screws securing the carrier panel to the body and remove the panel.
Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Unscrew the screw on the spacecraft axis (Fig. 5);
Pulling the cam towards itself, remove it from the axis (Fig. 6);
Rice. 6. Dismantling of spacecraft
Unscrew the two screws that fasten the spacecraft to the carrier panel (pos. A, fig. 6);
Turning the spacecraft, one by one they remove the wires from it.
Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Unscrew the two screws with which the thermostat is attached to the support panel;
Remove the screw that secures the wiring harness. Removing the clamps from the tourniquet releases the capillary tube. Remove the thermostat flask from the nest in the tank (pos. a , rice. 7).
Rice. 7. Mounting the heating element and the thermostat flask
Remove the front panel;
Remove the screw that secures the wiring harness;
Unscrew the screw that secures the level switch (pos. B in Fig. 8);
Rice. eight. Level switch and hatch door lock
Disconnect the wires from the level switch;
Turn the level switch 90 ° and remove it from the bracket.
Remove the top cover and detergent hopper;
Remove the handles of the thermostat and spacecraft;
Remove the control panel;
Remove button covers;
Remove the buttons from the sockets on the front panel carrier;
Disconnect the wires.
(When reassembling, the scales are inserted into the latches and turned so that the recess in the rear lower part of the scales is directed downward. In this case, the thermostat or KA knob is turned so that the slot on the handle is directed upward. Pay attention to the correct installation of the scales.)
Remove the top cover;
Disconnect the wires from the EMC filter;
Unscrew the two screws in the plastic box located at the rear wall of the machine case, which secure the noise suppression filter;
Remove the filter by loosening the M8 pin.
Remove the top cover;
Disconnect the wires from the EC;
Move back the clamp on the EC hose and remove the hose;
Pressing a screwdriver on the latch that secures the valve to the machine body, turn the EC counterclockwise and remove it.
By pressing the button for opening the hatch door, open the hatch;
Remove the clamp with which the hatch seal is attached to the front panel, and separate the seal (Fig. 1);
Unscrew the two screws with which the lock is attached to the machine body (pos. a , rice. one);
Remove the front panel;
Remove the cable from the lock (pos. A, fig. 8);
Remove the lock from the socket;
Disconnect the wires.
Remove the top cover and front panel;
Remove the clamp fastening the sleeve, along which the lock wire passes;
Pulling downwards, pull together the cable sleeve. Detach the cable from the lock;
Squeeze out the plastic latches of the lock and pull out the cable.
Remove the front panel;
Disconnect the wires (pos. B, fig. 7);
Loosen the M6 bolt and remove the heating element from the tank cover (pos. With , rice. 7).
(When re-installing the heating element, make sure that it falls into the fixing bracket.)
Remove the front panel;
Disconnect the wires (pos. A, fig. 9);
Disconnect the hose from the tank and the drain hose (pos. C, fig. 9);
Unscrew the screw that secures the pump to the machine body (pos. And, Fig. 9);
Turning the pump, remove it.
Rice. 9. Removing the drain pump
Remove the front panel;
Remove the thermostat flask from the tank lid;
Carefully (without using tools) remove the thermostat bulb seal from the hole in the tank lid (pos. a , rice. 7);
(When reassembling, make sure that the seal fits properly in the hole in the tank lid.)
Remove the front panel;
Loosen the tightening of the fastening clamp;
Carefully (without the use of tools) remove the hatch seal.
(When reassembling, make sure that the holes for the seal are on the bottom of the tank lid.)
Remove the front panel;
Having wrung out the wire fastening clamp, remove the tube from the connection of the detergent dispenser;
- Gently (without using tools) pull out the tube.
Remove the front and decorative panels and the top cover;
Remove the pressure take-off tube from the level switch;
Remove the clamp securing the water supply pipe to the tank nozzle;
Remove the spring clamp from the pump nozzle and cut the plastic clamp securing the water supply pipe to the tank;
Remove the water supply tube.
Before reinstalling the belt, clean the pulley from dirt.
Remove the back cover and drive belt (fig. 10);
Unscrew the bolt securing the pulley to the tank shaft (pos. B, Fig. 10);
Remove the pulley from the shaft.
Do not reuse the bolt securing the pulley to the drum shaft. When assembling the machine, it is necessary to replace the bolt with a new one.
Rice. 10. Removing the drive belt
Remove the back cover and drive belt (fig. 10);
Remove the power connector from the electric motor;
Unscrew the bolt securing the electric motor to the tank;
Remove the electric motor from the shock-absorbing suspension.
Disconnect the power cord;
Remove the terminal box cover by pressing the latches on both sides (Fig. 11);
Loosen the screw securing the power cord;
Remove the screw securing the ground wire;
Unscrew the terminal screws and disconnect the power cord.
Rice. eleven ... Removing the terminal box cover
Remove the front panel;
Unscrew the fastening screws and remove the counterweight;
Remove the 12 clips holding the front tank cover and remove the cover.
Remove the front panel;
Remove the lower counterweight, heating element and thermostat flask;
Remove the clamps from the tank cover;
Remove the tank cover and put it horizontally with the seal facing up;
Remove the seal.
(When reassembling, the seam of the seal must line up with the tank cap mounting piece.)
Remove the back cover;
Remove the finger from the shock absorber attachment to the tank by pressing the latches on the sharp end of the pin (pos. A, Fig. 12);
Remove the finger from the shock absorber attachment to the washing machine body (Fig. 12).
Rice. 12. Shock absorber mount
Remove the front panel;
Having wrung out the fastening clamp on the inlet of the drain pump, slide it back (pos. With , rice. 9);
Remove the drain hose from the pump;
Remove the drain hose fasteners on the back of the machine body;
Attention: there is residual water in the hose.
Remove the drain hose from the front of the washing machine.
The article was prepared based on the materials of the "Repair and Service" magazine
Repair of automatic washing machines is a rather complicated process and requires high qualifications, if it is difficult for you to carry out the repair yourself - contact the repair service in Moscow
All the best, write
But in some cases, the problem is not so serious, it can be eliminated with your own hands, thereby prolonging the life of your beloved "home helper". That is why we will talk in this article about typical breakdowns and repair of Beko washing machines.
Experienced specialists in the repair of washing machines are able, by looking at the operation of the equipment, to determine which unit or element is broken or is about to break and needs to be repaired. It would seem that if there are problems with your machine, call such a specialist from the service center, and he will deal with the cause of the breakdown, and if you are lucky, he will fix it on the spot. Everything is quick, easy and without unnecessary headaches, and most importantly, in some cases such an act is quite justified.
But there is one "but", the call of the master and his repair services cost money, and a lot. It often happens that repair services are more expensive than the real cost of a Beko automatic washing machine and other brands of machines. It's a shame to give that kind of money for old junk, especially if there is no way to quickly buy a new typewriter. There is only one way out - to try to fix the breakdown with your own hands. But for this you need to correctly identify the breakdown, which will help the "symptoms" of malfunctions of Beko washing machines.
The water is not heated, and washing takes place in cold water, or, on the contrary, the water heats up very strongly, not in accordance with the temperature set by the user.
Water is poured into the tank for a very long time or not at all.
The hatch does not close completely and therefore the wash does not start.
After the end of the wash, the water does not drain and this is accompanied (or not accompanied) by a strong hum.
The drum of the Beko washing machine rotates with a strong grinding, clanking and other extraneous sounds.
It is impossible to start any washing program, because the machine blinks with all the lights after switching on, or the program is set, but does not start.
The machine does not turn on from the button, although the power cord is plugged into the outlet.
Beko's machine, which has a display, issues an error code and "refuses" to work.
Note! There may be more symptoms of malfunctions, but most often users have to deal with the above.
As we have already noted above, malfunctions of washing machines give themselves out as external "symptoms" of improper operation or even failure. But the problem is how to relate these symptoms to a specific breakdown? This is where some knowledge and expert advice will be required, let's summarize them in a thesis.
this may indicate a breakdown of the heating element or control board. The same conclusions can be drawn in the event that the water is constantly overheating, that is, the user sets the temperature to 30 0 С, and the system brings it almost to a boil. In the event of overheating of the water, the probability of a malfunction of the control board is even greater than a malfunction of the heating element, but both elements must be checked.
When starting the wash program, the machine should start pouring water into the tub. This happens with varying intensity, depending on the program selected by the user. To see the process of filling with water, it is enough to look through the hatch window. But if you see that 20-30, or even 40 minutes pass, the drum rotates slowly, but water does not flow into the tank, or even time passes and the machine freezes, stopping the execution of the program and giving out a certain error code. There may be four reasons for this:
there is no water in the water supply system - this fact is easy to check by opening any tap;
the water filter located at the base of the inlet hose (if any) is clogged, therefore water does not flow into the machine;
the filler valve has broken;
defective control unit element.
The Beko automatic washing machine is designed in such a way that it will not start the washing program until the hatch is closed to the end and the blocking device sensor sends a corresponding signal to the control board. If the hatch does not close or seems to be closed, but the washing program is still not activated, it means that either the locking device has broken and does not hold the hatch, because of this, the sensor cannot be triggered, or the sensor itself has broken.
For your information! If there is a problem with the door locking device, try to gently press down on this door with your knee and restart the wash program, perhaps the locking hook simply does not fully enter the counterpart and does not lock.
in the pump;
in the control board;
a blockage in the drain hose or drain.
If the machine is operating very noisy, the drum rotates with a terrible clang, rattle and bang, it is very possible that the bearings are broken. or just a foreign metal object got into the tank, got stuck between its wall and the drum wall and wedges. Such a breakdown requires an immediate shutdown of the machine and taking measures to eliminate the problem.
Also, the machine may not turn on at all or, after turning it on, start blinking with all the lights, and this repeats itself from time to time and turning the machine on / off again does nothing. In this case, it can:
break the on / off button of the washing machine;
break the control unit;
break the power cable.
It is best if the Beko washing machine with a display does not just freeze, but generates a system error with a specific code. The manufacturer has provided error codes so that the user can identify the breakdown without contacting a specialist. Description and interpretation of these codes are presented in the table below.
In theory, all Beko automatic washing machines can be repaired, no matter how many kg their drums are loaded, how old they are and whether they have displays or control panels. But in practice, problems often arise, either the repair cannot be done by hand, or it is not advisable due to the high cost, or there are no suitable spare parts available. In any case, if you find a breakdown and undertake an independent repair, you need to take these factors into account in order not to end up losing money, losing time and money.
Important! For example, replacing the bearings of a washing machine sometimes takes hours from a specialist, calculate how long it will take you, if at all you can make the replacement correctly.
Experts strongly recommend undertaking only the simplest repairs, which, for example, are associated either with the replacement of units, or with the elimination of blockages. It is better to leave the rest to the masters, because there is a risk of spoiling something, and this, again, will result in unnecessary expenses. So, which of the typical breakdowns can you fix yourself?
Clean the drain filter to remove any debris and dirt that may interfere with the normal operation of the machine.
Replace the drain pump, but only if you are convinced that the old one is out of order.
Check and replace the inlet valve. To do this, you will also have to make sure that the problem is not with the control board.
Replace the heating element.
Teng breaks down on Beko's washing machines quite often, especially for some reason on domestically produced models with a load of 6 kg. Replacing it yourself is not difficult, the main thing is to perform the following actions in accordance with the recommendations of specialists.
Teng in Veko washing machines is located in the back of the tank, which means the first thing we do is remove the back wall by unscrewing a few bolts.
Removing the wall, we see a large round wheel - this is a pulley, just below two large contacts sticking out of the tank - this is a ten.
We take a suitable key and unscrew the fastening element holding the heating element, disconnect the wires from the contacts.
Carefully, but with effort, we pull out the heating element from the groove.
We purchase the same heating element and continue working.
Carefully insert the new heating element into the groove and screw it on.
We connect the wires to the contacts, put the back wall of the machine in place and check the operation of the new element.
Summing up, we note that Beko's washing machines, in general, are distinguished by a fair amount of reliability, nevertheless, they, like other devices, break down. Inviting a specialist is an overhead, so this should be done only if the breakdown is complex, in all the rest you can try to save money by doing repairs yourself.
Video (click to play).
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