Fan vaz 2110 DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself vaz 2110 fan repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In this article we will consider such a process as removing the radiator fan VAZ 2110. Why remove it? Well, there can be many reasons - from malfunctions of the fan itself, ending with getting to the radiator.

What is required for such a repair? Just a 10-key and a Phillips screwdriver.

First of all, we prepare the car for removing the fan, for this:

We partially drain the antifreeze so that you can unscrew the upper radiator pipe and coolant does not pour from it.
We fold the terminals from the battery and remove it.
We tear off the air filter housing from the rubber clips. For convenience, so that it does not interfere at all, we unscrew the clamp of the connecting pipe and disconnect the falsified corrugation from below.

4. Disconnect the fan power supply terminal.

5. Next, an open-end or socket key "for 10" will come in handy. We unscrew the nut of the lower mounting of the fan.

6. Now top. (In some VAZ 2110 models there are 2 nuts for attaching the fan. In 16-valve models, there is one nut at the top and on the side).

7. Next, let the clamp on the upper radiator pipe and remove the pipe.

8. Now you can lift the fan up.

This completes the process of removing the VAZ 2110 radiator fan.

Next, consider the process of disassembling the radiator fan.

For this type of work, in addition to a 10 key and a screwdriver, you will need a 13 key.

Using the "10" key, unscrew the fan motor from the plastic casing.

2. Take out the clip that holds the wiring harness.

3. Next, using the "13" wrench, unscrew the impeller fastening nut. At the same time, we hold the impeller so that it does not rotate.

Video (click to play).

So we removed the VAZ 2110 radiator fan from the car and disassembled it.

Since the Fan of the Engine Cooling System (VSOD) on the VAZ 2110 has only one speed of work, then many do not like abrupt behavior of the coolant arrow on the dashboard. Yes and abrupt start of the fan I want a radiator how to smooth out 🙂 There is a solution to the issue, and not even one!

Cons of a standard cooling system:

The presence of the "thermal pumping" effect (the temperature in a hot period of time constantly fluctuates from the point of turning on the radiator fan (carlson) to the point of turning it off).
Electric shock (current) loads on the on-board network.

Let's consider the moment of operation of the radiator fan in more detail:

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The normal fan operation has two features:

Fan capacity is excessive. The temperature of the heatsink drops rapidly, resulting in frequent start-stop of the fan motor.
The response temperature of the coolant sensor is too high. The indicator arrow approaches the red zone, the engine is unstable, it may “boil”.

For normal, correct operation of the cooling system, it would be better to lower the fan speed and start the electric motor smoothly, through an additional resistance and install a coolant sensor from the "classic" with a lower response temperature.

The thermal mode of the engine is maintained by a thermostat and an electric radiator fan.The latter is turned on by a sensor screwed into the left radiator tank (on a VAZ 2110 carburetor engine) or through a relay on a signal from an ECU (on VAZ 2111, -2112 injection engines).

If the old radiator cannot be repaired anymore and you decide to replace it, then it is a good opportunity to choose and buy a new one. For example, the Luzar radiator is adapted for both injection and carburetor engines (it is possible to install a coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH) from the carburetor).

If install an additional coolant sensor (DTOZH) in the radiator / pipe, then it will turn out like this: When the coolant temperature reaches the level of the sensor, the fan turns on at half force. And if the temperature rises and rises to the level of operation by the ECU, then it will begin to work at full strength.

Dual mode fan has a number of advantages:

A "softer" temperature regime of the engine without strong temperature fluctuations;
Reducing the load on the system by the starting currents of the electric motor by reducing their number and magnitude;
Reduced noise.

Diagram and photo of the installed device:

Alternative connection schemes, but the meaning is the same:

After this revision, a button appears in your salon (you can draw a karslon on it 🙂). In summer, in traffic jams, you press a button and your carlson smoothly turns on, which works while the button is pressed at low speeds (this speed is enough so that the coolant temperature does not rise above 90-95 degrees). But if suddenly it rises higher, then the standard 2nd maximum speed is turned on.

The advantages of this system:

The coolant temperature is already more stable and does not jump as before
There are no sudden power surges from turning on the fan.

To turn on the carlson at low speeds, an additional relay was supplied. Since VSOD and the heater fan consume almost the same current - 15.2A / 14A, I used a heater resistor as a current limiter. Current protection is also provided by the standard fuse F7.

You will need:

Relay 4-pin
Heater resistance VAZ 2110
Wires
Button (set with a snowflake)
Terminals mom + dad (many pieces)

The scheme is simple: parallel to the standard fan relay Pv, an additional relay Pv2 is connected, manually controlled by the Sv2 button. When the relay Rv2 is turned on, the fan closes to ground through the resistance Rv2, which ensures slow rotation. The standard circuit works in the same mode; upon a signal from the controller, the fan turns on at full speed.

We remove the terminal from the battery.
We climb under the torpedo from the passenger side at the feet, unscrew the lid and see 3 relays. We need a fan relay.

We are looking for a thin pink-black wire coming from the main relay (pin 85 *) and a thick power white-black wire (pin 87) and hook up our relay to them.
* according to the book, on different models of the VAZ 10th family, the pink-black wire of the main relay can come to both pin 86 and 85. We focus on the color of the wires. We do not touch the black-magenta (black-red) thin wire coming from the controller.

Next, we set the heater resistance. The stores sell different resistances, preferably in isolation. (for example, for Niva or dozens), which, apparently, can be placed right there without any consequences - in the cabin under the torpedo, next to the relay. These are the ones I advise you to purchase if you do not want to experience additional difficulties during installation.

I advise you to take the resistance of the heater 2110

Returning to the relay box:
Contact 1 resistance - to terminal 30
Pin 3 - on the mass of the car
Button - to terminal 86 of our relay.
Second contact of the button - on the ground.
We install the standard relays in place. Our additional relay is screwed by the ear to the controller bracket.

The resistance can be fixed in the same place next to the relyuhs, it does not heat up very much, but so that the resistance does not come into contact with the wiring, it is imperative to place it in a metal case.

We put on the battery terminal and turn on the ignition.
We check the performance of the circuit.

Why is the damping resistor heating up?
Because quite a lot of power is allocated on it. In absolute numbers, it looks like this:
The maximum current that the fan consumes is 15.3A (source); let's say that this is the starting current, and the working current, for example, is 10A. By connecting in series to it a VAZ 2110 heater resistor with a resistance of 0.23 Ohm (source), we limit the current and, accordingly, the speed. But at the same time, a current will flow through the resistor

8.57A, i.e. the resistor will drop 1.97 V. Accordingly, multiply 8.57A by 1.97V - we get 16.88 W, which is a lot. And if the current consumed by the fan in the steady state is more than ten amperes, then the power released at the additional resistor will accordingly be greater.

To say that I am satisfied with the first result is to say nothing. I just trudge quietly. The fan at low speed works almost silently, its sound is comparable to the sound of a gasoline pump. At full speed, it now either does not turn on at all, or turns on very rarely. Turning on occurs smoothly, without shock load on the generator and voltage dips.
At +30, the coolant temperature floated in the range 93-95 and did not rise above 96.

If the temperature of the engine is outside the normal range, then the engine cooling system should be diagnosed.

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What is the best way to modify the start of the engine fan?

The next step is to check the fuse for the electric fan of the cooling system (F7 at 20A in the mounting block). By the way, the same fuse is also responsible for the sound signal, so if it does not work, then 100% of the fuse should be replaced. We also check the radiator fan relay in the additional fuse box.

Now we turn to the electric fan itself, which is installed on the radiator. How to check the radiator fan? It's very simple, you need to connect it directly to the battery, if the fan turns on, then it is working properly.

We also check the sensor for turning on the radiator fan:

If the carburetor, then we close the contacts on the sensor, which is located in the radiator. If the fan turns on, then the sensor is faulty.
If there is an injector, then we throw off the connector from the sensor, which is located next to the thermostat. Because The radiator fan is controlled by an ECU (the brains of the machine), so the fan must turn on in emergency mode. If this happens, then the sensor is inoperative (see diagrams of SOD engine. And carb.).

The last possible reason why the electric fan does not work is an open circuit. We are looking for a wire break, and we check all the contacts using the circuits of the electric fan of the cooling system:

The fan of the engine cooling system did not work for me for a reason ..

This review is not exactly what people are used to seeing here, but I think the information contained in it will help someone from the owners of the "dozen".

VAZ cars of the 10th family are very common in Russia and the CIS countries. Like all domestic cars, they suffer from a whole mass of "congenital diseases". Here is one common "ailment" - "antifreeze goes somewhere all the time. "And" the expansion tank is cracking all the time. "Yes, I heard, and the new "Kalin" "antifreeze goes somewhere." To be honest, it was difficult to diagnose this "ailment", but it was instructive.

First of all, any sensible driver (and even a car mechanic) considers the expansion tank, hoses suitable for it. And already on the first examination, he makes a diagnosis - the expansion tank is leaking, it must be changed. Indeed, it is very wet around the cistern. We change. But the problem remains. Bad, however, cisterns.

Once I noticed that the "reservoir leaks" only if the electric radiator fan was turned on while driving. A strange conclusion. But the fact! And even weirder - the tank does not leak if the stove is on. Even stranger. I decided to watch this process. I started the engine and, opening the hood, left it to idle, and even in hot weather. A few minutes later, the tank began to "leak", but so abundantly! And then, about three seconds later, the radiator fan turned on. And the "leakage" of the tank stopped.

The problem was that the motor simply boiled, and the steam drove the liquid into the expansion tank, where, under the pressure of this vapor, the relief valve in the tank lid opened. And through this valve, the pressure drove the liquid out. Then, when the radiator fan turned on, the temperature in the system quickly dropped and the boiling stopped. Result - a glass of antifreeze is gone.

Everything is obvious - the fan turns on too late, when the coolant has already reached the boiling point.

Of course, having experience in operating Moskvich-2141, VAZ-21099, I naively thought that the thermocouple sensor on the radiator, which in these machines turns on the fan when the liquid in the radiator is heated, does not work well. But it took me about an hour to search for this sensor on the “dozens” radiator in vain. It turns out that this sensor is simply not in the top ten, and the decision on whether to turn on the radiator fan or not to turn it on is taken by the on-board computer, mainly focusing on the engine temperature gauge sensor. Like this!

Well, the temperature sensor of the temperature gauge may be faulty. I change it. Again, the result is a complete "logical zero".

Since the car was very badly and urgently needed by the owner - my relative, I had to build a temporary circuit to manually turn on the fan. Gave instructions to the owner, - How will it be more than 90O on the "arrow", turn it on! And so go, and as it falls below 90O turn it off. The happy owner almost kissed me the next day with joy that "the tank no longer cracks" and "the antifreeze does not go away."

But practically the problem was not solved, and it was necessary to return to it later. It seems to be the fault of the idiotic computer firmware that turns on the fan too late. As a result, the pressure rises in the system and either the antifreeze flows out through the valve on the expansion tank cover, or the tank bursts. Of course, the best solution is to change the firmware. But changing the firmware can affect other parameters of the machine as well. And in everything except antifreeze there was order - and good economy, and sufficient agility of the car, easy start in winter. No, they decided not to change the firmware, but to try to trick the computer by connecting a constant resistor in parallel with the thermal sensor, so that the computer "thought" that the temperature is 10 percent higher than it actually is. I began to carry out experiments with the sensor and found that in order for the fan to turn on before the liquid boils, it is necessary to turn on a 9.1 kΩ resistor in parallel to it.

And so he did. While it was hot, everything was fine, but in our northern latitudes in the summer it is + 30 ° C during the day, and at night there can be frosts up to 0 ° C. On such a frosty summer night, the car did not start until the resistor was turned off.

As they say, I had to return to the drawings. The resistance of the thermal sensor at room temperature is 2.5 kOhm, if it is placed in a refrigerator on ice, the resistance rises to 9-10 kOhm. In boiling water - 0.5 kOhm.So it turns out that by switching on 9.1 kOhm in parallel, we lower the "hot" resistance by about 5%, but the cold one by as much as 60%. Therefore, on a cold engine, the computer “thinks” that the engine is warm enough and does not take cold start measures.

Of course, a radical measure could be to replace the VAZ-2110 radiator with a radiator from a VAZ-2108 with a thermocouple sensor installed on it for turning on the fan. But this is too costly and time consuming.

In general, I had to leave the thermo-soda alone and go the other way. I disconnected the fan relay coil from the computer and instructed it to control it with a simple home-made thermostat, the diagram of which is shown in the photo.

Thermistor R2 is the second thermal sensor, which was bought in vain, thinking that the regular one is faulty. The working cylinder of the temperature sensor was thickly covered with heat-conducting paste, and strapped to the metal of the car's radiator. Then I spread more heat-conducting paste on top of it.

The switch-on temperature is controlled by a variable resistor R3. This must be a multi-turn variable resistor. Resistor R4 must be selected according to the value of the required hysteresis.

Relay K1 is a standard relay for turning on the fan; it is completely disconnected from the computer. Or an additional relay can be used.

Instead of the KR140UD608 op-amp, you can use any general-purpose op-amp.

I sent a more detailed version of this article to the magazine "Radiokonstruktor", they promised to publish it in No. 7 for 2010.

Many owners of the domestic “ten” complain that the VAZ 2110 cooling fan does not work for them. The problem is quite common, but to eliminate it it is not at all necessary to resort to the help of specialists, to pay a lot of money to car service masters for finding and eliminating the cause of the problem.

All this can be done by hand. Today we will tell you exactly how this is done.

The cooling system includes many components. Among those of interest to us today, which can cause malfunctions of the radiator fan, we note:

Electric fan. This unit is put into operation when the coolant temperature reaches 100-105 degrees Celsius;
Fan activation sensor. It is configured to operate within the specified temperature range. The sensor is located on the inlet pipe of the cylinder block (marking from the sensor factory - LS0112);
Fuse marked F7. It is located in the mounting block;
Relay fan. You will find this unit already in the cabin, under the right panel of the front console.

If the radiator fan does not work on your VAZ 2110, the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in the above system elements. Although there may be one situation in which the electrical circuit has nothing to do with the malfunction.

Knowing physics, you will agree that at normal atmospheric pressure, the water that is part of the antifreeze boils at a temperature of 100 degrees Celsius.

To fix this problem, you should replace the cover of the expansion tank. The new element must maintain the pressure inside the system above atmospheric, which will allow the laws of physics to work, the boiling temperature to rise to 105 degrees Celsius and thereby turn on the blades of the unit.

If everything is fine with the tank cap, there are no problems with pressure, then the reasons for the malfunction of the radiator cooling should be looked for in its electrical circuit.

The search begins with checking the functionality of the fuse marked F7. To do this, you have to get to the mounting block. Check the quality of the contacts, the presence of traces of oxidation. If everything is good here, let's move on. If the contacts are broken, simply strip them, or simply change the fuse. These are small financial costs.

The next place to check will be the VAZ 2110 fan switch-on sensor. You do not have to go to a specialized service station to check the efficiency of the sensor.This is done in a garage:

Warm up your car engine to a level above 100 degrees Celsius;
Stop the engine, then start the engine again;
Lift the hood and remove the terminal from the VAZ 2110 fan sensor;
If, after removing the element, the fan starts spinning, then the unit is working properly, but there are problems with the sensor;
When the cooling system fan does not turn on on the VAZ 2110 after disconnecting the terminal, the situation is the opposite - the fan does not work, and the sensor is in good condition.

Electric motor. It is possible that the radiator fan stopped working precisely because of a faulty electric motor. If all the previous manipulations did not work, you will have to remove the electric motor. It can have several characteristic breakdowns:

The collector brushes are worn out;
The manifold brushes are stuck;
A short circuit has occurred on the armature winding (this can be determined by the characteristic unpleasant odor).

Relay. Maybe the button to turn on the cooling radiator fan on your VAZ 2110 just refused. In such a situation:

The trim on the right side of the console inside the cabin is removed by unscrewing two self-tapping screws;
There are three relays under the panel;
The relay we are looking for is usually located at the edge in a row in relation to the front of the machine;
In order not to risk it, arm yourself with an instruction manual and check the wiring that goes to our turn-on relay;
Install a new, functional and good quality relay to correct the problem.

Heater parts VAZ 2110

All parts are packed in a block with additional valves, shields, fittings. All this device is dressed in a case and is located under the hood closer to the dashboard.

2. The next block represents the VAZ 2110 air ducts. They extend directly from the stove and provide:

Interior ventilation through central nozzles;
The air diffuser operates to supply heat (or regular air for ventilation);
Two air ducts are directed to the rear of the passenger compartment;
There is a whole system of five nozzles for heating the feet;
Two side air ducts provide heating of the side windows and part of the passenger compartment, providing better heating;
Two ventilation nozzles.

This, in short, is the principle of distributing hot or cold air inside the VAZ 2110.

3. The electronic control unit of the stove operates from the passenger compartment. It includes:

Controller handle. This device allows you to set the temperature in the cabin, which should be issued by the stove unit. It turns on by turning the knob and sets the temperature from the air, the temperature of which will correspond to the one overboard, up to 30 ° C. Most often, this part is called the ACAD (heater auto-control system) controller;
The temperature sensor is responsible for turning on the stove when the temperature in the cabin drops by 2 degrees against the set one. The sensor has a micro-fan, and if the control knob is in position A, then the micromotor in the stove unit turns on, and the damper starts working, ensuring proper heating. Therefore, usually before starting the repair of the heating system, the operation of this sensor is checked. It is located next to the heating lamp on the ceiling of the VAZ 2110. Since its repair is not provided, in the event of a breakdown this device should be replaced immediately.

Ceiling sensor for temperature of air in the passenger compartment

Stoves of the so-called new or old model were installed on the VAZ 2110. Both systems, including those on a VAZ, which have an injector instead of a carburetor, are not particularly structurally different.

So, directly the differences:

The main difference between the new model and the old stove is in the design of the heater radiator. Therefore, if you are repairing the heating system, and decide to put a new model instead of the old radiator, then take into account some of the nuances;
In addition, the controller of the SAUO is also not exactly like that. 4 or 5 position controllers, manufactured before autumn 2003, have already been discontinued and will not fit new heater models;
Microgear reducers also differ since the release in September 2003. They differ in resistors (shaft position sensors), so you need to see if the resistor is interchangeable in the MMR model that you purchased.

If you are planning to overhaul the stove, especially if you still have an outdated system, start by buying a new stove radiator (it is better to buy a copper one, it heats much better), and this will only improve the heater's performance.

But the device of the stove at the VAZ injector practically does not differ from the carburetor machines.

This is followed by an analysis of the following points:

The engine block has a plug from which the antifreeze is drained into some kind of dish;
The frill is pushed a little forward (the operation is protracted), the windshield wipers and everything that interferes are removed;
The heater body is removed. You should be aware that the body is divided into two parts. The front is removed together with the fan;
This is followed by the cabin filter housing. It can be changed at the same time;
The other part of the fan case is removed;
Clamps are loosened, hoses are removed;
Then, with some effort, the radiator is removed.

Assembly, as they say - in reverse order. Just one more nuance: if you have an outdated stove, then pay attention to two points:

When installing the plastic case, make sure that the pedal falls into the desired groove;

Knowing the device of all nodes, be sure to double-check their tightness.

Before filling in antifreeze, do not forget to make sure that the engine block has a well-tightened plug. Be sure to make sure that the entire system is working smoothly and more efficiently than before.This article describes the main causes of noise and the accompanying vibration of the radiator fan of a VAZ 2110 car and how to deal with them.We list a number of reasons why hum and noise, as well as vibration in the area of the engine cooling system, can occur:

The bolt with which the plastic fan is attracted to the motor pulley has been unscrewed;

The radiator has fallen out of its socket and lies on the cross member of the suspension;

An imbalance has arisen due to the fracture of a part of the impeller blade;

Imbalance due to dirt on the impeller blades;

The pressed pillows are not able to hold the engine (as a result, there is very strong vibration in the cabin);

There is no lubrication of the electric motor and the fan hums very much;

The bearing has crashed due to imbalance in the impeller.

If you have checked the entire cooling system and it turned out that problems do not arise for any of the indicated points, but the hum, noise and vibration continue, then it is worth changing the standard factory four-blade impeller to an eight-blade one.Impellers can be sold separately or together with a motor assembly. However, if your motor is fully functional, then it will be enough to replace only the impeller. The price of the impeller depends on the manufacturer and ranges from 100 to 1500 rubles. The eight-blade impeller with a contour along the edge of the blades is quieter due to the absorption of sound by an additional circular layer.Today, two types of electric motors are produced with shafts of different diameters:

8 mm (under the nut 13);

6 mm (for a nut by 10).

When replacing the impeller on your motor, you need to pay attention to this important fact so that later there are no problems with exchanging the impeller in the auto parts store for a suitable one. You may also need to trim the eight-bladed impeller in place, or it may not fit properly.Some owners of VAZ 2110 cars adapt a fan from foreign cars for their motor, and some even risk installing two (of course, smaller ones). Such a revision has a positive effect on the elimination of noise and vibration, of course, but in the technical characteristics such a motor is very lame.If you purchased a new impeller for your VAZ 2110, then the next part of the article is especially for you: it tells how you can replace the impeller with your own hands, without contacting a service station:

First you need to open the hood and, for the convenience of further work, remove the housing from the air filter;

To remove the fan frame, you need to unscrew two bolts and two nuts by 10;

We remove the fan, lock the impeller in it from rotation with any suitable tool (see photo below) and unscrew the nut with a 13-head nut that secures the impeller in place;

With such a disassembly, it is important not to lose the key inserted into the hole in the motor shaft (photo below);

We install a new impeller, fasten the nut tighter, after which the fan can be installed in place (photo below);Also, to reduce the vibration of the radiator fan and its further transfer to the car body, it is recommended to install rubber washers on the radiator (photo below);To make it easier to install the mount in place, it will not be superfluous to make a slot for the hairpin at the bottom of the mount (photo below);The impeller replacement process takes approximately one hour in total. The effect of replacing the impeller, of course, is not 100%, but still the noise and hum from the motor side, as well as the vibration of the body, have noticeably decreased.Stove VAZ 2110 perhaps the most problematic and capricious mechanism in the entire car design. You can't do without a stove or a faulty interior heater radiator on a VAZ 2110, given our cold climate. If in the summer a non-working stove may not bother you, then with the onset of the cold season it often turns out that the stove on the VAZ-2110 is blowing cold air. Today we will try to tell you in great detail about the device, repair and replacement of the heater on the top ten. For clarity, we will supplement the text with photos and videos.Let's say right away that the design of the heating system on the “top ten” is fundamentally different from what was on the old VAZ models. The most important feature and difference between the interior heater is that stove radiator VAZ 2110 and its fan is not in the passenger compartment, but in the engine compartment. This design has its advantages, for example, to replace the heater radiator or stove fan, you do not need to completely disassemble the front panel (dashboard).Another important difference is the electronic control of climate processes in the cabin. For this, the so-called automatic heater control system (SAUO). Photo of the SAUO block below. Image - Fan vaz 2110 DIY repair

By the way, the SAUO unit on the “dozens” of different years of manufacture is different. Since 1996, 4 types of SAUO controller have been produced. This should be taken into account when buying a unit as a spare part. It is this device that controls the temperature in the cabin and the operation of the fan. The temperature can be set from 16 to 28 degrees.

But how does this miracle device work? There is a temperature sensor or a ceiling air sensor with a built-in (very small) fan for air circulation on the ceiling of the “dozens” cabin. It is this sensor that sends information about the real temperature in the cabin, and the SAUO unit gives a command to the micro gear motor (MMP), which, in turn, opens or closes the main damper, which is responsible for the access of hot air to the cabin. When the temperature in the passenger compartment changes, the ceiling sensor gives a new signal, the micro geared motor is triggered by turning the damper, closing or opening the hot air access to the passenger compartment. Thus, the set temperature is automatically maintained. Further photo of the diagram of the air ducts of the VAZ 2110 heater.

Many owners of "ten" complain that at some point the stove constantly blows cold air and no turning of the handles of the automatic heater control system can save the situation in any way. There can be a lot of problems and malfunctions. For example, the SAUO controller itself, the ceiling sensor or the micro gear motor, which simply does not open or close the damper, is faulty. Another reason is the air (airlock) in the heater radiator, which is simply not able to heat the air passing through it. Further schematic image of the heater device VAZ 2110.

Often the reason for the poor performance of the heater "tens" is stove damper vaz 2110... The flap may not close tightly or open well. The heater flap itself is made of plastic, which can deform over time and work poorly. Many car owners buy a metal flap and change it on their own. How to check the performance and assess the condition of the stove damper? Quite simply, remove the central air duct deflector and here it is! We look at the photo.

Then you carefully examine the damper, turn on the stove, turn the regulators on the SAUO unit and see if the damper works at all. How does it move, whether it fits snugly. If she does not respond to commands, then the problem may not be in her at all. For one thing, you can see if the lever for redirecting the airflow from the glass to the legs works.

It is quite simple to determine the performance of the stove fan by noise. If the fan motor burns out, then naturally it will no longer work. True, before rushing to change the stove fan, you must make sure that the fuse has not blown. As we wrote above stove fan VAZ 2110 located not in the cabin, but in the engine compartment. To get to it, you will need to remove a special apron that separates the engine compartment from the heater housing, the vacuum brake booster and the wiper mechanism. The photo itself is below for clarity.

So we got to the stove fan, removing the apron and the heater cover. By the way, next to you you will see a cabin filter, in the casing a little to the left. It must be pulled out and cleaned. If no one has changed the filter before you, for many years of operation it is seriously clogged with debris and interferes with normal air circulation, which is sucked into the VAZ 2110 interior.

The radiator of the “tens” stove is located in the same place as the fan, that is, under the hood (see photo above). To remove it, you must first remove the fan from the heater casing. If you notice a strange smell in the cabin, lift the rugs, if there are puddles of antifreeze or antifreeze, then stove radiator VAZ 2110 drip. Although they may no longer hold the clamps ... in any case, you will have to disassemble and find out the cause of the leak. Next, we offer a couple of video clips demonstrating the process of disassembling, removing the apron, stove fan, cabin filter and heater radiator.

Video of replacing the old-style “dozens” heater radiator.