Whirlwind SN 100 DIY repair

In detail: vortex ch 100 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

When we moved to live in a village, I had to carry water from a well in buckets, and I need a lot of it every day. In 2009, they decided to supply water to the house. We have no well, the source of water is a well in the depths of the garden. We dug a trench from the well to the house of the required depth so that the PVC pipe would not freeze in winter, installed a station in the back room of the house. And the pump was lowered into the well. At first we bought a pump of another brand (it seems "Aquarius", so I’ll find a passport for it, so I’ll write about it too), it was more powerful, and we planned to install a shower cabin instead of a bath over time. It was expensive (to us), and served less than two years.

We bought instead a household borehole electric pump of the VIKHR CH-90 screw type, it has an upper water intake, submersible and can be used to supply water from wells, and from wells, and from open reservoirs. The pump was sold packed in a cardboard box, the passport of the electric pump was also there.

The passport describes in great detail how to install the pump, so that it does not touch the walls of the well casing, so that the distance from the bottom of the well to the pump is maintained, as indicated in the passport. Particularly noted. that it is impossible to pump contaminated liquids, as well as acidic or alkaline solutions.

The upper and lower photos show the technical characteristics of the VORTEX pumps of various types.

And also a diagram of the pump installation is shown. When installing it, care must be taken not to twist the electric cable, hose and cable during diving. After a couple of meters, we fixed them with electrical tape (tied to the hose), but so that the cable was even slightly slack, so that it did not bear the weight of the pump and the column of water in the hose.

Video (click to play).

Well, much more was written in the passport. The warranty is six months, and the service life of the manufacturers assured that it would be 5 years. So, since 2011, we have already changed 3 VORTEX pumps. At first, the price was quite divine, I don’t remember exactly (3-4 thousand), and we bought the last, third pump already at the beginning of 2015 and the price for it was already “biting” - 7150 rubles. In the city, with relatively normal salaries, maybe you can buy the same thing cheaper, and in the countryside - by 2-3 thousand more, despite the fact that the salaries here are such that you will not run away much.

When last year another VORTEX ordered us to live a long time, not serving us even one year, my husband got nervous and decided not to collect the collection of these pumps anymore, but to try to repair it.

VORTEX CH-90 (like its other “companions”) looks beautiful, the body is made of stainless steel, but its weak point is 4 tie rods that pull the engine with the working part of the pump. They are made of ferrous metal and are subject to corrosion. I think the manufacturer does this on purpose, using simple metal parts, so that these pumps are bought more often. Well, some other pump parts also cannot boast of quality.

I cannot show you the new pump. But I'll show you what our pump has become in ten months of operation (see the top photo). He stopped supplying water to the house. It turned out that the pins had rotted and he was crumbling. We tried to bring it into the house (it was just frost on the street), so it completely collapsed. The husband repaired it, put it back into the well. And it worked as good as new. After 10 months, when my husband had already arrived from the watch, he decided to check the condition of the pump.

They pulled it out and were surprised ourselves. Of course, the rust on the case has reappeared, but it is water of this quality, it can be easily brushed off.But, look at the bottom photo, there is no corrosion on the studs and nuts. Below I will describe how it was repaired. The holes that are visible on the pump housing cover - there should be re-bolts, but they also rotted and there is nothing to attach the cable to, but we have a hose through which water is supplied, a thick-walled high-pressure cord (miner's) and a pump is attached to it with clamps. The clamps are also unreliable, we paint them over with paint, and then tightly wrap them with electrical tape so that the water does not get to them. The pump is held by a hose and a cable, one might say, is not needed.

The husband was delighted with the result and decided to extend the life of the rest of the pumps (fortunately, we did not throw them away). Now I will describe in detail the repair of the VORTEX CH-90 pump.

It is better to repair it in the yard, but now it is very cold, we drag it into the house. The pump body is made of stainless steel - this is a big plus. And below in the photo you can see rotten re-bolts (“ears” for fastening the cable), they are made (as if on purpose) of ordinary metal and this is what they turn into in a short service life.

By the way, these pumps may differ slightly from each other. For example, there were tie rods on one pump, and tie bolts on the other two, but it makes no difference, both of them quickly rot. And the pump casing falls apart. In short, an autopsy will show :))

Even the label looks like new on the pump. This is probably an advertisement for them, it would be better if the manufacturers took care of the working part of the pump.

The husband prepared the studs from stainless metal, he took the best-preserved native stud from the pump as a sample, you can see them in the lower picture. Studs were made from a rod of d-8 mm, on both sides of the pins I cut a thread of d-6 mm, since this is the thread in the body. And the length of the hairpins was cut off by 75 mm, as was the case with the old hairpin. Used for fastening brass nuts, because they were not found from stainless steel.

During the repair, it turned out that the studs must be prepared for a specific pump. Because they turned out to be too long for one of the pumps, it is good that they were not short. When everything was twisted, the excess was cut off with a hacksaw for metal.

The top picture shows that the tie bolts have been removed. Three went more or less normally (holes from the tie bolts are visible).

And the head of one bolt was so rotten that there was nothing to pick it up, I had to cut it down.

When the head of the bolt was cut off, the cover was removed, and the hairpin remained screwed into the body, I had to tinker with it.

In the lower photo we see the removed rubber working cuff (left) of the worm shaft (center). With his fingers, the husband holds the washer with a seat under the working cuff. All this is already removed easily.

We remove them and carefully slide down the cable towards the plug. In the removed cover (made of stainless steel), we see a recess for the check valve.

We remove the washer and part of the body and this is what appears before our eyes. This is the quality of water in the Rostov region, well, in many other regions too. Therefore, we use purchased water for drinking and cooking, and this is used for household needs. And in cities, water pipes look generally awful.

Here in the bottom photo, the husband screwed the studs back in so that you can see how they stood and how they were twisted by the water.

In this bottom photo, you see a working worm shaft connected to an electric motor with a tight flexible rubber connection. The worm shaft is made of ordinary metal, treated with a thin layer of electroplating. This is a very big minus, since the smallest solid particles (grains of sand) are still present in the water, they erase the deposition, exposing the black metal and corrosion begins. The shaft becomes rough and starts to wear from the inside of the working cuffs.

We clean the parts from rust and see a flexible rubber joint in the bottom photo. A screwdriver indicates a screw for filling the oil, it is made of stainless steel. We didn’t pour oil and we don’t know what was needed there, we didn’t have to, everything was normal there.

And here in the bottom photo there is a check valve, which is installed in a special recess in the pump cover.

Tie pins (or bolts) come into such disrepair. And this is the most "persistent" of them, the rest look even worse.

Here they are! Is it really difficult for a manufacturer to make them out of stainless steel, even if the pump would be more expensive, but of high quality. So no!

And this is how the worm shaft suffered from corrosion, since the electroplating was worn out. The pump on which we changed the studs a year ago, the shaft looked about the same. We do not know how long its resource will last, but while it works, it keeps pressure well. And the renovation cost us almost nothing, because his husband did it himself.

After disassembly, we proceed to cleaning and washing the pump and its parts. Rust can be easily cleaned with such a metal brush.

In the picture below, you can see the washed worm shaft sealing lip.

For some reason, the intermediate washer is also made of ordinary metal and also suffered from corrosion.

We assemble the pump in the reverse order. At the outlet of the pump, the husband installed another check valve (redundant) made of brass, since he did not rely on the factory rubber one.

Now we have one pump in operation, one in reserve, and the third one will also begin to sort out the other day. And now they will be enough for us for a long time.

Conclusion. There are no complaints about the electric motor and pump casing. But the manufacturer must also make all the working and fastening parts of the pump from stainless steel, because everything is completely in the water all the time. Then it would be a great pump. He supplies us with water to the house from a well 12 meters high, and another well is located at a distance of 50 meters from the house. Copes with this perfectly.

Since submersible pumping equipment is used in many summer cottages and in country houses to solve various water supply problems, it is useful to be able to do a simple submersible pump repair for every owner of such equipment. This is especially true of mechanical breakdowns, which can be dealt with with your own hands if you know the cause of the breakdown and how to fix it. In our article, we will tell you how to repair deep well pumps yourself, describe the most common breakdowns and how to fix them. At the same time, we will describe the sequence of repairs and frequent malfunctions for the most common models of pumping equipment of the "Vodomot" and "Whirlwind" units. The video at the end of the article will help you understand the intricacies of repairing submersible pumps.

Pumps of the brand "Vodomet" and "Whirlwind" are in great demand due to the simplicity of the design and simple repair of the downhole unit. The heart of any submersible pumping product is a compact cylindrical body. It is in this case that the engine with the impeller is put on its shaft. In this case, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by means of a special insert. The shaft passes through it.

Before proceeding with the repair of borehole pumps, it is necessary to assess the serviceability of its main units. To do this, do the following:

First, check the piston for damage and deformation. It should be straight and even.
The permeability of the suction port is then assessed. It is considered serviceable if air, penetrating from the side of the suction pipe, passes freely from both sides.
It is also worth measuring the distance between the piston and the coil magnets with your own hands. Normally, it should be in the range of 0.4-0.5 cm. If this value is greater, then the coils in the device may beat. If the clearance is reduced, the engine may overheat.
In addition, in Vodojet units and other similar models, it is necessary to measure the distance from the valve that closes the inlet to the device body. Normally, it should be from 0.7 to 0.8 cm. This will allow the liquid to flow freely from the unit in the absence of pressure.
You also need to make sure that malfunctions in the operation of the downhole unit are not caused by critical voltage surges. Therefore, using a special device, you need to measure the voltage in the network. It should be in the range of 200-240 V.

Since there are models of pumping equipment from different manufacturers on sale that differ in strength and design features, the repair and operation of such devices should be carried out taking into account the model. Since as a downhole unit you could have chosen not "Water cannon" or "Whirlwind", but a model of another brand, we decided to list the weaknesses of the most common pumping products, as well as the features of their repair:

Most Grundfos models have special thermal insulation for the engine and built-in valves. Therefore, sometimes it is necessary to change the thermal insulation seals of the motor. This work can only be done by a professional.
Jileks brand pumps often encounter fluid leakage from the electric motor. For repair it is necessary to replace the fluid with a similar product. This can be done only in a special service center.
The most popular is the domestic pump "Malysh". Although the price of service repair is quite acceptable, it is not difficult to repair this device with your own hands. A common problem is that the unit makes a lot of noise after turning on, but does not pump water. This usually happens due to a rupture of the central axis on which the membrane and anchor are installed. Usually, disassembling the unit will quickly identify the problem. The axle needs to be replaced. You can find out more about the repair of the Malysh pump from the proposed video:

The downhole pump "Vodoley" quite often overheats during operation. This is especially true for units installed in shallow wells. However, since the repair of such equipment can be about half of its cost, then if an inexpensive pump breaks down, it is easier to buy a new device.
Pumps "Vodojet" and "Whirlwind" are a fairly reliable technique that, if used correctly, can serve for a long time without breakdowns. If not properly operated, the units can become clogged with silt and sand. For repairs, you will need to change the pumping part.
Pumping equipment "Rucheyok" is also famous for its ability to overheat. And this despite the design in compliance with European standards. According to the manufacturer's instructions, the device can work without stopping for 7 hours, but in practice this will cause overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to give the pump a break after 2-3 hours of operation.

As for Vodomet pumps or units of other brands, often the reasons for breakdowns can be:

silting of the impeller;
break in the supply cable;
failure of the rotor or stator.

To diagnose the problem with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

To begin with, the unit must be removed from the well and performed for a test run. If the shaft rotates, the problem is with the impeller. It must be cleaned of silt and the unit can be assembled and operated further.
If the "Water cannon" pump does not even turn on during the test run, then first you need to check the power cable with a tester. To do this, check the voltage at the terminals of the engine compartment. If it is, then the cable is intact. Otherwise, you will have to replace it with a new cable.
If, when diagnosing a borehole pump, it turns out that everything is in order with the cable, then the cause of the malfunction lies in the electric motor. In this case, the product will have to be disassembled all the way to the engine compartment, remove the stator or rotor and rewind the winding.

To repair any pumping equipment with your own hands, you need to learn how to disassemble it. We will consider how to do this using the example of the "Water cannon" pump. Disassembly is performed in the following sequence:

Unscrew the perforated cylinder at the inlet pipe.This is a coarse filter that protects the product from sand and silting.
Next, all the washers, discs and "glasses" are dismantled from the shaft on the engine of the pump unit with their own hands. To make it easier for you to put the removed products back in the desired order, lay them side by side in the order in which you remove them.

It is important to know: the impeller consists of 16 removable parts, not counting the same anti-friction washers. Therefore, it is very important to follow the sequence of removal and refitting of all elements.

After that, it is necessary to dismantle the engine retaining ring from the "Vodojet" borehole pump. This part covers the engine compartment cover. To do this, you need to use a mallet. With the blow of this tool, we move the engine down, after that we pull the cord and return it back. After such manipulations, the O-ring will move. After that, the retaining ring is shifted with a screwdriver towards the body. As a result, the stopper will skew and it will be easy to remove it.
Next, we disconnect the wiring, open the engine compartment cover. After that, using a mallet and a screwdriver, you can remove the motor from the case.

As a result of such disassembly, the impeller and all its constituent elements can be easily washed and cleaned. The engine can be taken for diagnosis and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning and repairing, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

Most pumping products from different brands often face the same problems. We will list the most common ones and indicate what needs to be done to troubleshoot the problem:

Video instruction for the repair of the Vortex borehole pump:

In recent years, the number of wells in personal and summer cottages has increased tenfold. And the point is not only that the price of drilling work has dropped significantly and drawings of homemade drilling rigs have become available thanks to the Internet. Many are attracted by the fact that there will always be water in the house, regardless of malfunctions in the water supply networks, but it is worth remembering that from time to time you will have to repair borehole pumps, because the equipment resource is not infinite. Image - Whirlwind cn 100 DIY repair

In the photo: regardless of the size of the equipment, the repair process is the same for all models

As you know, any breakdown is much easier to prevent than to eliminate. That is why the ideal option would be preventive examination and maintenance at least once a year, but it is better to do this twice - in spring and autumn.

This type of work is quite simple:

The pump must be removed from the well, even this work can be quite difficult, especially if the well is deep and the equipment is heavy. In this case, it is better to call an assistant.
After removing the unit, inspect the suspension cable and electrical cable. Next, you should check the body for damage, dirt and corrosion.
It is better to start the pump for a short time and listen - any extraneous sound will indicate a malfunction.

Periodic inspection and cleaning significantly reduces the chance of malfunctions. In addition, if sand and silt are present on the pump, this is direct evidence that it is necessary to shake the well, otherwise siltation will lead to pump breakdown, which is unlikely to be eliminated.

In order to better understand how to repair a borehole pump with your own hands, it is worth understanding the causes of certain malfunctions and understanding the most typical problems. Of course, anything can break during use, but there is a certain set of so-called "diseases" that appear most often.

Important! No matter how the seller convinces you that some pump is not worse than a model, the cost of which is 2 times higher, most often the more expensive models are much more reliable and durable.

Don't be scared by the complex schemes of the units, in practice everything is much simpler.

We note right away that most often the unit fails due to the owners' own negligence. Many of them, purchasing a pump, do not even read the instructions, which spell out the rules of use and basic safety measures.

Moreover, the vast majority of users run equipment down the well and do not get it out until it breaks, which could have been avoided by taking it out for inspection at least once a year.

But even with a responsible attitude, malfunctions can occur, consider the most common of them:

The equipment works "dry", this happens if the pump is suspended too high or in the process of water supply the level in the well drops very much. The mechanism must work with water - it serves as a coolant and lubricant, without it, overheating and jamming, and sometimes melting of plastic parts, occurs.
Using a pump that is too powerful, in this case the intake is too intense, and sand is sucked from the bottom, which can severely damage the main pumping part - the pump impeller.

Sand can destroy even a cast iron impeller

Power surges and surges can damage the capacitor and other electrical parts. Voltage stabilizers should be used.
And, finally, common wear and tear of units can be the cause of breakdowns.

The most common causes of malfunctions are:

Accumulator and check valve malfunctions - these components are not included in the system, but if they do not work correctly, the pump is not protected from pressure drops and, most likely, will receive a water hammer.
Erosion and damage to impellers, shafts and other moving parts.
Winding and capacitor faults.
Clogging of the system with sand and silt.

Here's what you can see by disassembling the pump, you must admit that it will not be able to work for a long time

If you do not have any abilities and have never seen even the simplest devices disassembled, it is worth contacting specialists. It is worth doing the same in the absence of at least a minimum set of plumbing tools. But, if you have at least basic knowledge and a set of wrenches and screwdrivers, you can try to do some work yourself.

The simplest diagram of the pump device

Here is the simplest guide for diagnosing and repairing a submersible pump:

Before starting any work, it is worth turning on the pump to the network and listening, if there are any sounds - clicks, buzzing, and so on, work can be continued, but if there is complete silence, then, most likely, a magnet burned out, which cannot be repaired gives in. This equipment is recyclable.
Next, the lower part of the case is removed. In this type of pump, the motor is single-phase, it has two windings - starting and working. A capacitor is mounted in the starting circuit, the capacity of which can be up to 40 μF. But first of all, the shaft and blades or impellers are checked - everything should rotate freely and not be damaged.
A jammed shaft indicates a burned out stator winding. It is completely replaceable, although in some models this will not be possible and the pump will have to be thrown away. If everything rotates and is not damaged, the lower part is assembled back.

Read also: U660e DIY repair

The stator is the outer, fixed part of the pump winding

Before disassembling the upper part, place the housing vertically and secure it, otherwise oil will leak out of the engine. Under the cover, you will see some wires and a capacitor.

Capacitor and wires are located under the pump top cover

First, using a tester or ohmmeter, the resistance of the starting and working windings is measured (usually the operating value is 15-20 ohms, the starting one is 30-40) - if the device shows infinity on any of them, then there is an open circuit in it. Low resistance values are evidence that the winding wires are short-circuiting each other.
And, finally, if all the data is normal, the capacitor is checked.If the reason is in it, then it should be replaced with a similar one.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, carrying out all of the above measures allows you to independently repair the equipment, avoiding significant expenses. As you can see, the work is quite simple, you do not need an electrical engineering education to carry it out - it is important to carry out all the work accurately and scrupulously.

In addition, you will be able to find out if the pump is repairable, and you will not spend money on diagnostics in the workshop, because even if the pump is not suitable for restoration, you will be charged money.

Advice! Remember that the pump casing is permanently submerged in water, so check that the gaskets are in the correct position and condition when assembling.

Do not be afraid to disassemble the pump, take into account our recommendations, and you can easily cope with this task. The video in this article will clearly show some of the steps in the process.

Pump products with the brand name "Vikhr" have been known in Russia since 1974. At that time, the Kuibyshev Electromechanical Plant produced the first borehole submersible electric pumps. In 2000, the production was transported to China, where, together with Russian specialists, the production of various pumping equipment was established. Screw borehole electric pumps, which are also called worm or screw, are used to pump clean water from deep wells. One of these devices:borehole pump, which has a maximum immersion in the well of 32 m. The distance from the bottom of the well to the edge of the body should be at least 60 cm, from the surface to the device half a meter.Downhole products are manufactured with upper middle and lower water draw-off - the device with the upper draw-off pumps in cleaner water, but there must be enough liquid for long-term operation. The maximum water supply is 55 meters, a more detailed schedule can be found in the product passport.The casing of the deep well pump vortex SN 90V is made of stainless steel. The length of the cable is 20 m, it is possible to extend it to the required length. During operation, it must be remembered that the operation of the device "dry" is not allowed, and the temperature of the pumped-out water should be from one to 32 degrees.
From the factory, the model is equipped with a rubber check valve that prevents water from flowing back into the container when stopped. But when operating the product in deep wells, a rubber valve will not work; it is best to immediately install it from metal. The standard outlet threaded hole of the check valve is 1 ", if necessary, you can install an adapter connection for a hose with a diameter of at least 3/4 ''.During operation, it must be remembered that the smaller the diameter of the supply hose, the greater the pressure. It is prohibited to artificially reduce the diameter of the installed hose. On the sides of the body there are special eye-bolts for fastening a steel cable. With the help of a cable, the body is immersed or then retrieved from the well. It must be remembered that in order to avoid damage to the electrical connection of the electrical cable to the terminal box, do not pull on the cable, or even handle it when the electrical network is connected. To prevent water hammer when air enters the chambers at the beginning of work, it is recommended to install a special device called a hydraulic accumulator.It must be remembered that, according to the requirements of Safety Techniques, during operation, it is necessary to connect the product to a network where there is an electrical fuse with a cut-off current of not more than 16A, and which is triggered when the current rises more than 30 mA sec. During operation it does not require any special maintenance. But, if the product will be out of use for more than 10 days, you need to take it out, drain the water and dry it.Vortex data and characteristics can be viewed in the picture.The series consists of a number of models with different operating principles: screw or centrifugal submersible electric pumps.The fundamental difference between vortex and screw products is that the working body of the vortex pump is made of a wheel with blades. This wheel is placed in a chamber with an eccentric displacement of the outer walls, when the blades rotate, they capture water in the widest part of the chamber and move it to the narrower part, which creates pressure. For what type of pumps is a very important parameter such as the speed and power of the engine: the speed of rotation creates pressure, and power is the amount of liquid ejected. The standard engine speed is 2800 rpm.The screw deep vortex pump SN 90V differs from the vortex working body, which resembles a screw in a meat grinder. Capturing part of the liquid in the lower part, the auger pushes it upward, reaching the top, the liquid is pushed through the check valve into the supply hose with sufficient pressure to lift water up to 40 m.Attention! It must be remembered. By virtue of its design, the creation of pressure largely depends on the tightness of the screw-sleeve pair. Therefore, the operation of such a product is allowed only with clean water so that the abrasives of sand or solid particles do not damage the surface of the bushing mirrors. Image - Whirlwind cn 100 DIY repair

The design with a centrifugal rotor allows the transfer of microparticles up to 15 microns. (turbid water). On the other hand, the screw can pump viscous liquids, but the paddle cannot.

The principle of operation of the deep-well screw pump is to push water between the cavities formed by the rotating screw and the sleeve. The bushing is made of plastic material (metal cord rubber) a rotating screw from the electric motor drive pushes water along the rubber walls of the housing, creating pressure at the outlet

Dependence of the lift height in the deep-well vortex pump SN 90V on the performance.

It so happens that during operation, the product loses its former performance, that is, it does not produce a certain amount of water per hour. One of the possible reasons:

Dirty water inlet holes;
sleeve wear;
screw wear.

If the contamination can be cleaned during disassembly, but, here, wear or malfunction of the screw, or the sleeve, is made only by replacing it. The cable may also be damaged if it exits the protective seal tube. In this case, repairs should only be carried out by an electrician.

To disassemble the case, it is necessary to unscrew the four screws on the shims and the lugs with keys with a facet of 10. Remove the cover carefully so as not to damage the gasket between the body and the cover. After the cover is removed, the shaft, bushing, check valve becomes accessible for inspection.

From the top cover, carefully, without using sharp objects (only by hand), get the check valve - the rubber must be elastic, the movable valve cover and the body must not be damaged. If there are no visible breakages, then after cleaning the carbonized parts or the inlet openings of the grill, the product will work as before.

The device consists of a pressure flange, a body of a working part, a stator body, an electric motor body.

The screw and body are made of stainless steel, the screw sleeve is rubber-metal. The asynchronous motor is placed in an oil bath, protection class IP68.

So your helper has started to dispense less water. Most likely there is a malfunction in the working parts that are in direct contact with water - this is the inner part of the body, the auger and its sleeve. It is strictly forbidden to start deep products without water, therefore, all checks should be carried out exclusively immersed in liquid.

We remove the cover, under which there is a check valve, take out the auger sleeve, after which the auger itself is unscrewed. The auger is screwed into the drive shaft on a "left-hand" thread. If the thread has acidified, there are turnkey edges under the protective sleeve.

Checking the integrity of the windings includes a break test and insulation measurement.
To check the continuity of the circuit, two checks are carried out:

circuit integrity of the phase wire and motor windings;
insulation resistance measurement.

To do this, you need to use a multimeter, and understand the principle of operation and the device of the vortex pump SN 90V. To measure the first parameter, set the multimeter to ohmic resistance mode. Then, touching the pins of the plug with the probes, we will measure, the reading should be no more than 1 Ohm. The grounding conductor is measured by touching the grounding pin of the plug and the body. If the resistance is more than 1 Ohm, then there may be a break in the ground or phase wire in the motor winding itself, cable plug or wire.

The next check consists in determining the insulation value of the phase wires from breakdown to the case. For this, the measuring probe of the multimeter in the 200 MΩ mode is connected to the pins of the plug of the electric wire. the second probe to the body (the place of contact must be clean), the resistance during measurement must be at least 200 megohms.

After that, the operation of the engine is checked, for this it is enough to connect the power plug of the electric motor to the mains while paying attention to the noise of the bearings during operation and the stability of the revolutions. The noise from the bearings should be smooth without clicking or crunching, the rpm should be stable. frequency of revolutions for household appliances = 2800 rpm.

then the auger and the sleeve are inspected, they should not have significant damage and should be in close contact with each other; for this, it is enough to insert the sleeve into the auger, they should enter each other with friction.
After cleaning the parts, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order. If you are still not sure how to properly disassemble the vortex pump SN 90V, then it is best to contact a specialized center, where specialists will carry out the diagnostics professionally.

With long-term operation, depending on the chemical composition of the water, less and more often the body and parts are exposed to mineral deposits, and plain steel rusts.Oxides and hydroxide (rust) are most effectively removed by hand - a metal brush and rinsing with water. Ideally high pressure rinsing (mini wash). The deposition of carbonate salts, which turns into carbonate minerals during deposition: organite, coccid, can be easily removed with dilute hydrochloric acid and a metal sponge, of course, followed by thorough rinsing.Rubber, plastic parts can be washed in a strong solution of sodium chloride. But if you decide to disassemble it to the details, it is best to supply new spare parts, especially valves and gaskets.So, if the assistant stopped delivering water to the mountain, having lost productivity, and you decided to repair the vortex pump SN 90V, then most likely it got dirty, most often it is a calcium deposit (limestone is popular among the people). If the plaque is not yet large and has not been coked, then you can do without chemistry and you can use citric acid for cleaning. It removes organic salts plaque well.What's good: stainless steel body, good performance.
What's bad: the studs hold the 2 halves of the case together. In a year and a half, there is a possibility that the body will crumble right in the well. It's amazing who came up with this - a stainless steel body, steel studs tightening. I suppose that initially the studs were made of stainless steel, but in order to save money, China proposed its own version of the assembly. I also attribute to the disadvantages that it is used only for pure water. Be sure to choose a solid stainless auger, chrome plated and then wedge due to increased friction with the sleeve. Approximate service life 2-3 years. But it looks like it's worth its money.I refer to the positive properties: oil in the motor - this gives additional electrical properties to the windings. There are eyebolts for suspension, decent head. The store declared the cable length of 20 meters, did not check it, it turned out to be a little more at home. It pumps from a depth of 20 m. The pressure is good, about the same as opening a full tap in an apartment. I'm tired of constantly turning on and off the outlet, I'm thinking of purchasing an automatic system for turning on the engine from the pressure in the water line.It has been working for six months, so far without comment.I regard the advantages of a small price, a high-quality assembly of a vortex pump cn 90v review is good, though low productivity, but I have a non-standard well - 100 m deep. I consulted the sellers, they said that this type does not work for a deep well. I use it for a set of containers. Suspension on 6 mm cable. The cable length was 20 m at the time of purchase, the consultant said that it can be increased. I cut the cable near the plug, built it up, nothing, it works normally for a year and a half, no complaints. Three-core cable in rubber, silk threads and braid inside.You can buy the Vortex SN 90V in specialized dealerships, or on Internet resources. In order to avoid buying fakes, it is best to contact trusted large centers where they value their reputation and you can consult with sellers online or by correspondence.Borehole pumps are used to provide residential and industrial premises with water. They operate at great depths with full immersion in water over 50 meters.The powerful power plant allows water to be supplied uninterruptedly from wells and deep wells. A domestic example with high quality is the Vortex borehole pump.The difference between the Vortex submersible pumps is the principle of pumping water into the device. On this basis, stand out:

centrifugal;

screw;

vortex devices.

The centrifugal submersible pump lifts drinking water from a depth of up to 50 meters. At the same time, it copes with the concentration of sand up to 180 grams per cubic meter. The device is quite powerful and provides uninterrupted water supply. These pumps include "Vortex SN-50N".Vortex borehole pump deviceBy its design, a centrifugal submersible electric pump resembles a snail. It consists of a cylindrical body and an electric actuator. A propeller with wide curved blades is connected to the drive. When submerged, the pump freely passes water into the housing and it fills all the space between the blades.After that, the electric drive is activated, which intensively loosens the screw. Water is pushed out by the propeller from the spaces between the blades to the inner surface of the hull walls. There is a hole that connects the body and the pipeline. The result is a pressure difference that causes the water to rise upward.On devices of this type, special thermostats are installed, which, in the event of an overload of the electric drive, turn it off.

Screw pumps maintain the water pressure when immersed in a well or well with a depth of up to 100 m. At the same time, the immersion depth of the device from the water surface should not exceed 35 m. The design of the device allows you to work with water, the concentration of sand in which does not exceed 250 grams per cubic meter.The screw electric pump for the well consists of a thin cylindrical body connected to an electric power plant. Inside the body there is a screw mechanism, which consists of a steel rotor (screw) and a rubber stratum (inner rubber gasket of the body with ribs). As a result of immersion to a depth, water is supplied to the chamber of the screw mechanism. Image - Whirlwind cn 100 DIY repair

Technical characteristics of submersible pumps "Whirlwind"

Under the action of an electric drive, the internal screw is wrapped inside the stratum. Contacting together, the friction pair forms sealed spaces that are maintained until water is released into the pipeline. The next portion of water increases the pressure and throws the water mass even higher.

This principle of operation is used on the "Vortex SN-90V" and "Vortex SN-100V" devices.

The vortex electric pump is only suitable for reservoirs with a low sand content. Its maximum concentration should not exceed 40 grams per cubic meter. Such a device consists of a round flat body with two nozzles and a disc inside. The work is provided by an electric motor.

When submerged, water enters the disc chamber through the inlet. Driven by an electric motor, the paddle disk creates a vortex flow of water along the walls of the housing. After that, it is pushed into the outlet by centrifugal force.

This class includes the "Whirlwind CH 100" and the more efficient model "Whirlwind SN-50".

Borehole pump Whirlwind DN-550N

In terms of their performance and scope of application, the following models of the "Vortex" apparatus stand out:

The "Vortex SN-50 N" apparatus is designed to pump water resources out of wells and pits, the depth of which does not exceed 50 meters. In this case, the drilling of holes in the reservoir should be at least 10 cm. The device is suitable for working with water without impurities. In medium and heavily polluted water bodies, quickly deteriorate. The apparatus is made of chrome-plated steel. Equipped with a thermostat with a forced shutdown system.

The model has the following specifications:

water enters through the bottom holes;
rated power reaches 600 W;
the head is maintained up to a height of 50 m;
works with liquids up to + 35 degrees;
device capacity 60 l / min.

When using a SN 60V borehole pump, you can raise water from reservoirs and wells with a depth of 60 meters and a diameter of up to 100 mm. The system uses a screw principle of water supply. Made of stainless steel. Suitable for water with an admixture of abrasive materials not exceeding 40 grams per cubic meter.

Vibration pump Whirlwind VN-15V

The technical characteristics of the device are as follows:

the upper inlet is used for water injection;
working power is 370 W;
optimal working depth 50-60 m;
the water temperature should not exceed 35 degrees;
the volume of pumped out water is 25 l / min.

The immersion depth of the Vortex SN 90V borehole pump is much higher than the previous models and is 90 m. For easier immersion in the borehole and extraction, the chrome-plated steel body is equipped with special hooks, to which a cable or rope is attached. The optimum distance from the surface of the water mass to the device is 35 m. With a deeper placement, negative pressure is exerted on the components of the mechanism.

Working qualities of the borehole pump Whirlwind SN 90b:

the passage of water is through the upper channels;
power consumption within 550 W;
optimal pumping depth - 90 m;
the device operates with a temperature of liquids up to 35 degrees;
productivity - 25 l / min.

With the help of the Whirlwind SN 100V pump, you can pump out water masses from mines, deep pits and wells. In this case, the cross-section of the hole must be at least 120 mm in diameter. Like the previous submerged model, the CH 100B is equipped with additional hook rings, which allow safer use of the device when diving. The body is made of stainless and partly chrome-plated steel. Equipped with a thermal relay with the ability to disconnect in case of too high load.

the upper inlet is used for water injection;
operating power limit - 1100 W;
the head is maintained up to a height of 100 m;
permissible water temperature - + 35 degrees;
the volume of pumped out liquid - 40 l / min.

Not so long ago, a model appeared on sale that provides the deepest (in the model range) water withdrawal from a depth of 135 meters. Pump Whirlwind SN-135, like the previous models, it is made of chrome and stainless steel. Its productivity is 40 l / min, and the power of the device is 800 watts. For the rest of the points, the description repeats the previous model.
to the menu ↑

The first thing to look for when buying is the diameter of the device. When entering the well, a cavity of at least 10% of the well diameter must remain between the channel wall and the surface of the apparatus. Therefore, for sources with a cross section of up to 10 cm, models CH-50N and CH-60V are used. If the hole diameter exceeds 10 cm, the use of CH-90N and CH-100V and CH-135 will be optimal.

Taking into account the power of the required device, it is better to focus on the depth of the well. Numerous reviews indicate that it is effective to take a model with a power slightly higher than the theoretically correct one. Since a high percentage of abrasive substances significantly reduces the capabilities of the device.

In some complete sets of models, special filters and purification systems are built-in, which protect the mechanisms of the device from the action of sand. This option is more expensive, but has a significantly longer service life. Also, when buying, you should definitely check the presence and operating condition of the thermostat, which turns off the device when the engine reaches a temperature of 110 degrees.
to the menu ↑

Correct installation of the pump will keep its performance and functionality longer. To do this, you need to adhere to certain rules. First of all, the device should idle as little as possible. Such loads can damage the device.

When deepening the apparatus into the body of water, the distance to the surface of the reservoir must be at least 4 meters. The distance from the device to the bottom is at least 60 cm. When installing the mechanism, you should not rely only on the water supply channel. Fix the ends of metal cables with a small section on the device body, and fix the free ends at the exit of the well.

Periodically, you should take the pump out of the well and clean it from the accumulated abrasive.

Video (click to play).