Water heater aquaverso do it yourself repair

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Can you please tell me how the temperature is regulated on the electric water heater Akvaverso 80 liters, otherwise there are only some risks? How long does it take to heat the water?

This appliance heats up for 4 hours, the heating temperature determines the amount of hot water. The hotter, the more you can dilute and get out.

A week ago I bought an Aquaverso ER 55 l electric water heater. The water is warm and does not get hot even by 4. The arrow does not rise above the middle of the blue scale. What could be the problem?

With the device, most likely, everything is in order. Close the cold water tap and wait an hour and a half, everything will be fine.

Please tell me we have a 80-liter Aquaverso boiler, all indicators are on, the thermometer is zero, the water does not heat up. Is the heating element faulty? If so, is it possible to replace it?

Yes, of course, the electrical part is being repaired. The heating element can be replaced.

What temperature corresponds to I-IIII Roman numerals on the Aquaverso ER 50V storage water heater for 50 liters?

The maximum heating is up to 75 degrees, then only more or less, there are no digital indicators in this context.

A question about the maintenance of the Aquaverso RZB vertical water heater. Yesterday, when using, a terrible smell of hydrogen sulfide appeared (a week ago they used it - everything was in order). I found two reasons on the network: poor water quality and the presence of bacteria in the heater. I think the first option is more realistic. Just in case, I want to boil the water in the appliance. What is the maximum heating temperature? Is it possible to somehow turn off the temperature sensor (for a while) in order to boil the water well in it?

Your manipulations with bringing the unit to a boil are fraught with a rupture of the tank, which will lead to very disastrous consequences, and even more so, disabling the thermal protection is highly undesirable. It is necessary to call the master and rinse the tank.

We bought a storage water heater Akvaverso 50 liters. It worked fine for 2 weeks, but just yesterday: the water heating indicator works, but the water does not heat up, no matter what temperature you set the thermostat to. It seemed to me that a small click sounded inside under the lid. What kind of malfunction can be and can it be eliminated independently, without resorting to the help of specialists?

Perhaps the thermal protection worked, and opened the circuit, in order to return it to its original position, you need to remove the tank lid and press the button, but it is advisable to establish the reason why the thermal protection worked, so it will not be superfluous to contact the service center, especially since the device is almost new, and must still be covered by a warranty.

We have a malfunction in the Aquaverso ER 85 HP model. Worked for about 3 years. Now, when plugged into the outlet, the RCD is triggered. Or it is triggered when the temperature control is screwed on. They turned on without water for testing, for 5-10 seconds, everything works, does not turn off. The lid was removed. Everything is clean, everything is dry. Tens are alive, clean, whole. The tank was flushed. Socket with ground. The buttons are lit. We sit and think. What is the problem?

In this model, when the RCD is triggered, the heating elements usually have an electricity leak to the case. They may look clean and alive, but if you measure it with a device, then the leak becomes visible.

Model ER 105. We have been using it for 5 years.Water dripped from the safety valve today. Please, tell me what is the reason and how to eliminate it?

The safety valve serves to relieve excess pressure in the tank. There are only two options: The valve needs to be replaced. Increased pressure in the water supply system of your home. If you have never removed or cleaned the device, it is quite possible that the valve is out of order and needs to be replaced with a new one. But there is a possibility that the pressure in the water supply system of your house has increased. Here is its valve and
resets. Which of these options is correct without being on the spot, I cannot say. For the future, you need to put a silicone tube on the valve nose (it fits from the dropper), and the other end of the tube must be taken into the sewer.

Installed a storage water heater Akvaverso for 100 liters. He warmed up, turned off, and hot water does not flow. What to do?

Do you happen to have a tap at the entrance to the device? It just happens sometimes that the owners put a tap at the entrance and close it during heating. As a result, hot water does not come out of the unit, since cold water does not flow there. The principle is simple - when you open a hot water tap, cold water displaces hot water from the device. If hot water (when the cold water tap is open) does not flow, then it is necessary to look for a place of blockage. But something tells me that your tap is closed, which passes cold water into the device.

Electric water heater Aquaverso RZB 50. RCD knocked out, found a problem, changed both heating elements. There was a second problem. Collected, turned on, the temperature shows 0, then 30, 50, constantly jumping. Teng is working heating is on. Shows error E1 after a few minutes. The tank is full, there is no air. Is the thermostat broken?

The fault is the electronics or the sensor coming from the electronics that is inserted into the heating element. It is possible that everything was broken before your intervention. No wonder you changed the heating elements. The fact is that when there is an overload on the control boards (there are two of them) (due to heating elements punching into the case), these boards can inevitably fail. As a result, when installing new heating elements, the electronics die completely, or work strangely. If you are sure that you have connected the sensor correctly, there was no black plaque on the contacts of the board into which the sensor is inserted, and they are well soldered to the board, it is better to contact the service. Such boards can only be found there. True, to find out which of the boards is to blame, you can only pick up a working one in advance.

After replacing the heating elements in the Aquaverso 80 boiler, the water began to boil, although the temperature on the display is 75-80 degrees. Is it possible to swap the temperature and overheating sensor on the 1.3 kW heating element?

Try to shove the sensors further into the tubes. If you have a heating element with different lengths of tubes for sensors, then insert the sensor from the electronics further into the deep tube, and the overheating sensor into the short one.

We bought an Aquaverso boiler. We installed it according to the instructions, took some water, turned it on, the water warmed up, turned it off from the mains, took a shower. The next day, hot water in the morning was running normally, and after two hours it turned on hot water, but it does not flow well, the first second or two is normal pressure, and then it drips. I thought because the pressure of the cold one is not very good, therefore, the hot one does not go well, but after lunch the situation did not change. Cold water pressure is normal, but hot water drips. What could be the reason? What to do?

You have a blockage somewhere. Either at the tap (sometimes the water aerator, located at the tip of the tap gander, gets clogged), or at the inlet or outlet of the device. In order to correctly determine where the blockage is, it is necessary to shut off the flow of cold water into the unit, open the hot water tap (to release possible pressure in it), unscrew the pipe from the hot water pipe, put a bucket under the pipe and open cold water into the device.If the water pressure from the hot water pipe is normal, then it is not about the electric water heater and you need to look for where the blockage is in the hot water supply to the tap. If not, then you need to drain the water from the device and look for where the blockage is: on the cold water supply, or in the unit itself.

Akvaverso 50 liters, aka Termeks. Was purchased 3 years ago for use in the apartment during the hot water shutdown. Once a year, for 1-2 weeks, like everyone else. Was built into the wall. Literally the day before yesterday, foolishly, having plugged in the device, I forgot to open the cold water intake valve and the hot water supply valve (while the tank was full of course, it cannot be different, as I understand it). After 20-30 minutes, I came up and saw that water was dripping from the protective cover through a tiny hole. Immediately I remembered that the valves were closed. The valves were opened. The hot water valve made a pressure release sound when it opened. He took off the protective cover and saw that the entire sealing gasket of the heating element was wet. From observations: When heated, 20-30 minutes after the start of heating, water begins to drip, after opening any of the faucets in the apartment, the water stops dripping. In the off state (i.e. when it is fully heated), water also does not drip. Tell me, did I ruin it? What to do? Change the heating element seal? And what, then, is this little hole for? (It is obvious for drainage, but for what cases it is not clear).

Try to tighten the nuts first in a circle, if you cannot eliminate the leak, then disassemble and replace the gasket. The hole under the handle is not a drain, but just a mark so that you can see at what heating level the appliance is operating. It looks like it works in 1st mode. And the water from there appears due to flowing down the body. By the way, silicone gaskets under the heating element flanges are considered disposable. Indeed, at the first disassembly, you will see an annular crack on the gasket. On the second disassembly, the thin part of the gasket will fall off. But this does not really mean that the gasket will cease to function as a seal. The main thing is to well tighten the nuts holding the heating element flange on the studs.

Installed electric storage water heater Aquaverso (80 liters). Worked without problems for over 6 years, but recently there was a malfunction. It heats up and turns off normally, but when the hot water is turned on, there is a normal pressure for about 10 seconds, and then it decreases sharply, and in all taps around the house, although the pressure of cold water is normal all the time. Water is supplied through Hydrofor. I did not find any safety valve on the heater. I did not change anything in the water supply system, except for the hydrophore, put Gruenfos.

I can only advise you to clean the water heater from the scale accumulated in it. Over six years of operation, it could have accumulated so much that the cold water supply pipe inside the device became clogged, respectively, the pressure drops.

We have a 30 liter Aquaverso water heater at home. Recently, I noticed that he constantly heats the water, i.e. the lamp of the thermostat is constantly on and does not turn off. When I turn the thermostat knob all the way to the left to off with my hand, the light on the key still does not turn off. What is the reason?

If the device works for a long time, then it needs cleaning. But most likely, the thermostat is out of order.

Water heater RZB 50, flat. Age 5 years, worked 1-2 times a year for 2-3 weeks. After operation, the water was drained. The problem is this: at the next turn-on, the unit worked properly for 3-4 hours, then it knocked out the “protection” on the staircase (de-energized the apartment). When you turn it on again: when you click, rotating the thermostat - the picture repeats itself. What could be in such a situation?

Your device, most likely, has a heating element out of order - a leak on the case.

Water heater Aquaverso ER 35 l, purchased in 2010. It worked properly, but the service was never done.Used only when the hot water was turned off in summer. The other day I accidentally went into the bathroom and felt an unpleasant and incomprehensible smell. I immediately turned off the device (it was at maximum), then it turned out that there was no cold water in the system. When the water appeared, I turned on the hot water tap, waited for a continuous stream to flow from there (the boiler was full) and turned it on again. But the buttons did not light up in red and the water did not heat up. What happened, tell me?

Not a pleasant and incomprehensible smell from the unit can be different - burnt plastic or rubber, maybe another. Probably, the thermal protection button has been snapped off, and you need to press it.

Electric water heater Akvaverso 80 liters, I use it for three years and then in the summer. Recently, a check valve began to drip even when heated to 40-50 degrees. I put on the third valve, and everyone drips. Help with advice. And further. The impression is that it is not completely absorbed with water. Maybe there is a big airlock? After all, everything was fine before. What to do?

The fact that a check valve is dripping is as it should be - it relieves excess pressure in the device, which is formed as a result of heating. Put a silicone tube on the valve spout, and take its other end into the drain. It is also possible that the pressure in the cold water supply system has increased, in which case you need to install a reducer. To completely fill an empty appliance with water, do this: open the nearest hot water tap connected to the unit, open the cold water supply. First, a little water will flow out of the tap, then air will flow, displaced from the tank by the incoming cold water. After a while, cold water will flow from the tap. The tap must be closed and the device must be turned on for heating. In your case, if heated water flows from the hot water tap without stopping (when the cold water supply tap is open), then the device is full.

I have an ER 80 water heater, I use it only when the hot water is turned off, and when it is not in demand, I always drain the water from the tank. And now they just turned off the hot water, I wanted to use it, but it does not turn on, or rather, when turned on, the RCD in the apartment is triggered. I will add that when I was just going to connect the device, I saw that the button for turning on the first heating element on the switch had collapsed (I eliminated this malfunction, but anyway, when turned on, the RCD immediately triggers).

On this model, with a high degree of probability, the heating element is out of order (it has a leak on the case).

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, breaks down periodically.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over.This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is specifically designed to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These methods for determining faults are suitable for both electric storage water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the tester measuring probes to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater may stop working due to a tripped thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

• damage to the internal tank has occurred;
• the heating element has deteriorated;
• leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward.But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal type devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

• increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
• the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
• the appearance of impurities in tap water, a change in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover.
3. Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
4. Shut off cold water supply.
5. Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
6. Unscrew the screws that hold the heating element.
7. Remove the heating element and descale it.
8. Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
9. Rinse the device thoroughly.
10. Check the health of the magnesium anode.
11. If necessary, replace this element immediately.
12. Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
13. Install the heating element in place.
14. Reassemble the device.
15. Check the tightness of all fasteners.
16. Connect the water heater to the power supply.
17. Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center.Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.

Poor water quality is considered to be the main cause of boiler breakdown. Because of this, scale forms on the surface of the heating element, the inner walls of the tank are susceptible to corrosion, which in the future entails more serious consequences and expensive repairs in the service center. In addition, the water heater may stop working due to improper connection to the power supply and the hot / cold water circuits.

As for the latter, when connecting the boiler, it is imperative to install a safety valve between the branch pipe coming out of the tank and the cold water supply pipe, which will protect the tank from rupture during a water hammer. You should also make the connection according to the instructions and, no less important, do not confuse where-what is connected. Sometimes situations arise that, if installed incorrectly, the water heater does not collect water. Please note that you should not panic in this case. It is better to take another look at how to properly connect the equipment to the pipes and, most likely, you will understand why your water is not collected.

So that you understand how to repair a storage water heater in different conditions, then we will separately consider how to repair all possible breakdowns with our own hands.

If the boiler does not heat the water to the required temperature, but still makes noise when turned on, it means that scale has formed on the heating element, which you need to clean yourself. This is not difficult to do, you just need to disconnect the equipment from the network, drain the water from the tank and disassemble the case to remove the heating element. You will not have any difficulties with disconnecting the plug from the outlet, but draining the water can make the repair a little more difficult. Immediately we recommend watching a video lesson, which shows a simple method for solving this problem: