Water heater elsotherm DIY repair

The storage water heater Elsotherm CV80T, after knocking out the plugs, began to heat the water poorly. What do you think could be the reason?

I would advise you to check the heating element and the thermostat, most likely, the problem is in them, in the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to replace the damaged element.

We bought an electric water heater Elsoterm 50 liters five years ago. Not used often (week to month). It was full all the time. Yesterday there was a big leak in the area of ​​the upper attachment. Need advice, as a result of which a leak could have formed, and how to fix it
on one's own?

For a more accurate understanding of the cause of the leak and the possibility of repairing it, it is necessary first of all to determine the exact location of the leak. If it leaks from under the heating element or at the joints, then the repair is quite feasible, but if the tank was the cause of the leak, then the repair will not bring the desired result.

Say, Elsotherm CV 80 water heater, shows EE on the temperature indicator instead of numbers. Does this indicate an error or incorrect display?

Maybe as a result of some kind of malfunction, you should turn off the device from the mains for a while and then turn it on again, if this does not help, then you need to call a specialist, he will carry out diagnostics and repairs.

The monitor on the Elsotherm EVN does not work, when I tried to reset the residual current device (RCD), I heard a click, and then a flash occurred. Who knows what could have happened?

Presumably, the thermal protection worked, and as a result, the device turned off. In this situation, you must return it to its previous position. To do this, remove the tank cap and press the button, but other malfunctions are possible, the exact reason can be said only after a visual inspection. It is necessary to call a specialist.

In everyday life we ​​use the Elsoterm boiler. I think that there was a breakdown of the electronic monitor - the meaning is jumping. Everything else works well. The residual current device is functioning properly, and the thermostat turns off as expected.

Most likely, you are having problems with the electronic unit; for a more accurate answer, a visual inspection of the device is required. Contact the service center.

The Elsotherm CV50 water heater is in operation. It was not fully filled, and I hastened to connect it to the mains, the monitor and the device eventually ceased to function. RCD is normal. Please tell me how serious it is and how to fix it?

If the unit was not filled, then first of all the protection should have turned on and turned off, and if it did not work, then the heating element most likely burned out.

I use an Elsotherm CV30 electric water heater. We put it three years ago. Recently there was a smell of burnt plastic. The device is functioning properly, the water heats up. Although, I noticed that the keys are very hot, which are located on the control panel. I disassembled the panel, nothing is ours, everything looks fine. Who knows what the problem might be and how to fix it?

It is necessary to carefully inspect the wiring in the area of ​​the heating element, probably something melted there, then contacts, insulation, and so on.

In everyday life, we use an Elsoterm storage water heater for 80 liters. Is it allowed to be switched on and off daily with an extension cord? I have only one extension cord, but it is not possible to attach it in the bathroom, therefore, if necessary, I connect it.I'm afraid it might burn out, is that so? Or does it not matter how many times the device is connected and disconnected? The wire is equipped with a red key, I wonder what is its purpose?

In general, it's okay. But keep in mind that your extension cord must be at least 25 A. And most importantly, do not let liquid get on the power strip.

EVN Elsotherm 30 liters. After six months of operation, I noticed that the time for full heating of the liquid had increased. Previously, the water heated up in 4 hours to 75 degrees, but now it takes 8 hours to fully heat up. Can you please tell me what is the reason?

I would recommend checking the heating element's performance, maybe it is necessary to clean the device from scale and plaque.

A water heater Elsoterm 80 liters was installed, it just went out and does not turn on anymore, when it is restarted with a key on the wire, it instantly turns off, what is the reason?

There can be many reasons, incorrect operation of the RCD, breakdown of the emergency thermostat, electronic module, etc.

Boiler Elsotherm 50 liters was removed and stood horizontally during the renovation work. During subsequent installation and connection to the water supply, liquid does not flow out of the outlet. How can I fix this problem myself?

Check the safety valve, see if the heater pipes and the unit are not clogged.

There is an Elsoterm heater, after a month of use, it began to make a creaking sound. When the water access to it is blocked, the creak stops, I resume the water supply - the creak appears. Tell me, maybe someone had a similar situation, how did you solve it?

Without an external examination, it is difficult to say exactly where the creak comes from. The device may make noise during heating, although if this was not the case before, then you should contact the service department for a check.

Elsotherm CV50T. A few days ago, it worked properly. And today the monitor does not light up and the device itself does not turn on. First of all, I checked the outlet, there is electricity. There are no leaks. What should I do? How to remove the bottom cover for electrical inspection?

Most often, the lid is fastened with two or three bolts near the pipes, do not forget to disconnect it from the mains before removing the lid.

The boiler worked flawlessly for two years, and at the moment there is such a problem - there is no hot water. There is a liquid supply, the heating element is working, but there is no water. What do you think could have happened?

There can be many reasons, check the relief valve. Also see if the pipes are clogged. In addition, other malfunctions are possible; the exact cause can only be named after a visual inspection of the device.

Yesterday my case swelled up and the device began to pass liquid. I disassembled, took out the heating elements, there was a lot of scale, but I did not see any obvious damage, while water flows in the front panel area and I believe that there is a lot of it there. How to disassemble it correctly?

Most likely, the violation of the housing led to a leak. If the internal tank is leaking, then the device is not repairable. I do not fully understand what else you want to make out. Therefore, I will write a general disassembly sequence. Disconnect the appliance from the mains and turn off the water. Remove the protective box. Remove the cover. Remove the temperature sensor and thermostat. Remove the safety valve from the water supply pipe and drain the unit. Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the fastener from the strip to which the flange is attached. Press the heating element inward, turn and remove (first place the tank under the flange, because the liquid will flow). To assemble the device, carry out all actions in reverse order.

In the Elsotherm boiler of 30 liters, the intake valve and liquid supply are closed. I open the valve on the mixer with hot water, open the valve on the device for supplying cold water. From the tap in the sink, water flows with a strong pressure, without stopping. The pointer on the scale of the device does not go up.How else can you tell if the tank is full.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that when pouring water into the unit, two valves must be in the open position - the intake and drainage of the liquid. The appliance is filled as follows: The hot water tap from the pipe is closed. Two taps open on it. The hot water valve opens. First of all, the remaining liquid will come out of the mixer from the nozzles, after which air is released, this indicates that water enters the EWH. When water flows out of the mixer again, the boiler is full. After that, close the mixers and connect the appliance to the mains.

We purchased and installed an Elsoterm 50 liter electric water heater. The liquid heats up for a long time and weakly. There is practically no naport.

Incorrect bypass valve. It is necessary to replace it under your own pressure.

The device has been working properly for more than seven years. Then the thermostat burned out. Replaced - everything is fine, but hot water does not go.

It is necessary to check the functionality of the turbine. For such a long period of operation, it is most likely jammed.

Tell me which mode is more economical?

Continuous mode at any temperature. There won't be enough mountains. water - just increase the temperature.

Tell me why the safety valve leaks all the time during heating?

This happens because the liquid increases when heated, and a lot of pressure is created, so water begins to bleed out from the safety valve. In order to prevent it from leaking, it is recommended to close and open the hot water supply valve.

A storage water heater Elsotherm CV50 was installed just the other day. After 4 weeks, he began to make a noise. The manual says that slight noise is allowed, but the noise increases every day. Even wakes up at night. Tell me, is the only way out, is it to call a specialist, or is this a normal phenomenon?

Most often, noise occurs as a result of the heating element fouling with scale. After a while, it can develop into boom - scale will flake off from the heating element.

In everyday life we ​​use Elsoterm 80 liters. It is not necessary to change the magnesium anode annually, it is possible to change it according to the degree of its wear and to replace it exclusively when necessary? The manual says that it can last for two years. And if the device is not used, does it wear out too?

That's right, every year it is necessary to disassemble and check the condition of the magnesium anode, if there is not much of it, then it needs to be replaced. If the device is not in use, it is also corroded by liquid.

Why does the water heater make noise during the heating process?

Absolutely any, even a new device, makes a noise at the moment the water is heated, this happens due to the convention process. The heating element, located at the bottom of the tank, heats the liquid. Bubbles are formed in it, rising up, and close with noise, falling into the upper, cold layer. A similar process can be observed when boiling a kettle. This is completely normal and cannot be influenced.

A large amount of scale has accumulated on the heating element - At the same time, first of all, the salt layer is heated, and the liquid is already heated from it. In addition, some of the water penetrates under the scale layer, and emits a whistle, when it boils, and comes out.

Exfoliating pieces of scale may crackle - To solve this problem, you need to disassemble the device, get the heating element and clean it mechanically, and then with a citric acid solution. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to clean it annually. In addition, the installation of an additional purification filter helps very well, which softens the water by cleaning it from excess salts. Thanks to the magnesium anode, the salts can be hardened and it is much easier to clean with it.

Excessive system pressure - In this case, noise can come not only from the device, but also from the pipes. This increases the load on the boiler and shortens its life.In this case, it is recommended to install a pressure reducer that reduces it if necessary.

The appearance of microcracks on the tube that closes the heating element - This happens if there is a dry heating element in the device. At the same time, small drops penetrate the heating element and boil. The resulting steam starts to make a squeaking sound and is released outside.

The safety valve is noisy - It is needed so that the liquid from the device does not go back into the water supply system. After some time, the safety valve wears out, becomes covered with a layer of scale and leaks, all this is accompanied by noise. In this case, you need to clean it or replace it with a new one.

The bypass valve whistles - At the time of heating, the liquid tends to expand. To prevent an explosion of the tank, each unit is equipped with a bypass valve, which, if the system pressure is excessive, releases liquid into the drain, which, although rare, can be accompanied by a squeak. It is required to change it.

Noise can arise as a result of airing the device, in other words, air enters the tank together with the liquid. Most often, this is of a short-term nature and is normalized when the water supply is restored. A similar effect occurs if the water is enriched with oxygen in large quantities from the outset.

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

I use an Elsotherm CV30 electric water heater. We put it three years ago. Recently there was a smell of burnt plastic. The device is functioning properly, the water heats up. Although, I noticed that the keys are very hot, which are located on the control panel. I disassembled the panel, nothing is ours, everything looks fine. Who knows what the problem might be and how to fix it?

It is necessary to carefully inspect the wiring in the area of ​​the heating element, probably something melted there, then contacts, insulation, and so on.

In everyday life, we use an Elsoterm storage water heater for 80 liters. Is it allowed to be switched on and off daily with an extension cord? I have only one extension cord, but it is not possible to attach it in the bathroom, therefore, if necessary, I connect it. I'm afraid it might burn out, is that so? Or does it not matter how many times the device is connected and disconnected? The wire is equipped with a red key, I wonder what is its purpose?

In general, it's okay. But keep in mind that your extension cord must be at least 25 A. And most importantly, do not let liquid get on the power strip.

EVN Elsotherm 30 liters. After six months of operation, I noticed that the time for full heating of the liquid had increased. Previously, the water heated up in 4 hours to 75 degrees, but now it takes 8 hours to fully heat up. Can you please tell me what is the reason?

I would recommend checking the heating element's performance, maybe it is necessary to clean the device from scale and plaque.

A water heater Elsoterm 80 liters was installed, it just went out and does not turn on anymore, when it is restarted with a key on the wire, it instantly turns off, what is the reason?

There can be many reasons, incorrect operation of the RCD, breakdown of the emergency thermostat, electronic module, etc.

Boiler Elsotherm 50 liters was removed and stood horizontally during the renovation work. During subsequent installation and connection to the water supply, liquid does not flow out of the outlet. How can I fix this problem myself?

Check the safety valve, see if the heater pipes and the unit are not clogged.

There is an Elsoterm heater, after a month of use, it began to make a creaking sound. When the water access to it is blocked, the creak stops, I resume the water supply - the creak appears.Tell me, maybe someone had a similar situation, how did you solve it?

Without an external examination, it is difficult to say exactly where the creak comes from. The device may make noise during heating, although if this was not the case before, then you should contact the service department for a check.

The storage water heater Elsotherm CV80T, after knocking out the plugs, began to heat the water poorly. What do you think could be the reason?

I would advise you to check the heating element and the thermostat, most likely, the problem is in them, in the event of a breakdown, it is necessary to replace the damaged element.

We bought an electric water heater Elsoterm 50 liters five years ago. Not used often (week to month). It was full all the time. Yesterday there was a big leak in the area of ​​the upper attachment. Do you need advice on what could have caused a leak, and how to fix it yourself?

For a more accurate understanding of the cause of the leak and the possibility of repairing it, it is necessary first of all to determine the exact location of the leak. If it leaks from under the heating element or at the joints, then the repair is quite feasible, but if the tank was the cause of the leak, then the repair will not bring the desired result.

Say, Elsotherm CV 80 water heater, shows EE on the temperature indicator instead of numbers. Does this indicate an error or incorrect display?

Maybe as a result of some kind of malfunction, you should turn off the device from the mains for a while and then turn it on again, if this does not help, then you need to call a specialist, he will carry out diagnostics and repairs.

The monitor on the Elsotherm EVN does not work, when I tried to reset the residual current device (RCD), I heard a click, and then a flash occurred. Who knows what could have happened?

Presumably, the thermal protection worked, and as a result, the device turned off. In this situation, you must return it to its previous position. To do this, remove the tank cap and press the button, but other malfunctions are possible, the exact reason can be said only after a visual inspection. It is necessary to call a specialist.

In everyday life we ​​use the Elsoterm boiler. I think that there was a breakdown of the electronic monitor - the meaning is jumping. Everything else works well. The residual current device is functioning properly, and the thermostat turns off as expected.

Most likely, you are having problems with the electronic unit; for a more accurate answer, a visual inspection of the device is required. Contact the service center.

The Elsotherm CV50 water heater is in operation. It was not fully filled, and I hastened to connect it to the mains, the monitor and the device eventually ceased to function. RCD is normal. Please tell me how serious it is and how to fix it?

If the unit was not filled, then first of all the protection should have turned on and turned off, and if it did not work, then the heating element most likely burned out.

Elsotherm CV50T. A few days ago, it worked properly. And today the monitor does not light up and the device itself does not turn on. First of all, I checked the outlet, there is electricity. There are no leaks. What should I do? How to remove the bottom cover for electrical inspection?

Most often, the lid is fastened with two or three bolts near the pipes, do not forget to disconnect it from the mains before removing the lid.

The boiler worked flawlessly for two years, and at the moment there is such a problem - there is no hot water. There is a liquid supply, the heating element is working, but there is no water. What do you think could have happened?

There can be many reasons, check the relief valve. Also see if the pipes are clogged. In addition, other malfunctions are possible; the exact cause can only be named after a visual inspection of the device.

Yesterday my case swelled up and the device began to pass liquid.I disassembled, took out the heating elements, there was a lot of scale, but I did not see any obvious damage, while water flows in the front panel area and I believe that there is a lot of it there. How to disassemble it correctly?

Most likely, the violation of the housing led to a leak. If the internal tank is leaking, then the device is not repairable. I do not fully understand what else you want to make out. Therefore, I will write a general disassembly sequence. Disconnect the appliance from the mains and turn off the water. Remove the protective box. Remove the cover. Remove the temperature sensor and thermostat. Remove the safety valve from the water supply pipe and drain the unit. Unscrew the retaining nut and remove the fastener from the strip to which the flange is attached. Press the heating element inward, turn and remove (first place the tank under the flange, because the liquid will flow). To assemble the device, carry out all actions in reverse order.

In the Elsotherm boiler of 30 liters, the intake valve and liquid supply are closed. I open the valve on the mixer with hot water, open the valve on the device for supplying cold water. From the tap in the sink, water flows with a strong pressure, without stopping. The pointer on the scale of the device does not go up. How else can you tell if the tank is full.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that when pouring water into the unit, two valves must be in the open position - the intake and drainage of the liquid. The appliance is filled as follows: The hot water tap from the pipe is closed. Two taps open on it. The hot water valve opens. First of all, the remaining liquid will come out of the mixer from the nozzles, after which air is released, this indicates that water enters the EWH. When water flows out of the mixer again, the boiler is full. After that, close the mixers and connect the appliance to the mains.

We purchased and installed an Elsoterm 50 liter electric water heater. The liquid heats up for a long time and weakly. There is practically no naport.

Incorrect bypass valve. It is necessary to replace it under your own pressure.

The device has been working properly for more than seven years. Then the thermostat burned out. Replaced - everything is fine, but hot water does not go.

It is necessary to check the functionality of the turbine. For such a long period of operation, it is most likely jammed.

Tell me which mode is more economical?

Continuous mode at any temperature. There won't be enough mountains. water - just increase the temperature.

Tell me why the safety valve leaks all the time during heating?

This happens because the liquid increases when heated, and a lot of pressure is created, so water begins to bleed out from the safety valve. In order to prevent it from leaking, it is recommended to close and open the hot water supply valve.

A storage water heater Elsotherm CV50 was installed just the other day. After 4 weeks, he began to make a noise. The manual says that slight noise is allowed, but the noise increases every day. Even wakes up at night. Tell me, is the only way out, is it to call a specialist, or is this a normal phenomenon?

Most often, noise occurs as a result of the heating element fouling with scale. After a while, it can develop into boom - scale will flake off from the heating element.

In everyday life we ​​use Elsoterm 80 liters. It is not necessary to change the magnesium anode annually, it is possible to change it according to the degree of its wear and to replace it exclusively when necessary? The manual says that it can last for two years. And if the device is not used, does it wear out too?

That's right, every year it is necessary to disassemble and check the condition of the magnesium anode, if there is not much of it, then it needs to be replaced. If the device is not in use, it is also corroded by liquid.

Why does the water heater make noise during the heating process?

Absolutely any, even a new device, makes a noise at the moment the water is heated, this happens due to the convention process.The heating element, located at the bottom of the tank, heats the liquid. Bubbles are formed in it, rising up, and close with noise, falling into the upper, cold layer. A similar process can be observed when boiling a kettle. This is completely normal and cannot be influenced.

A large amount of scale has accumulated on the heating element - At the same time, first of all, the salt layer is heated, and the liquid is already heated from it. In addition, some of the water penetrates under the scale layer, and emits a whistle, when it boils, and comes out.

Exfoliating pieces of scale may crackle - To solve this problem, you need to disassemble the device, get the heating element and clean it mechanically, and then with a citric acid solution. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to clean it annually. In addition, the installation of an additional purification filter helps very well, which softens the water by cleaning it from excess salts. Thanks to the magnesium anode, the salts can be hardened and it is much easier to clean with it.

Excessive system pressure - In this case, noise can come not only from the device, but also from the pipes. This increases the load on the boiler and shortens its life. In this case, it is recommended to install a pressure reducer that reduces it if necessary.

The appearance of microcracks on the tube that closes the heating element - This happens if there is a dry heating element in the device. At the same time, small drops penetrate the heating element and boil. The resulting steam starts to make a squeaking sound and is released outside.

The safety valve is noisy - It is needed so that the liquid from the device does not go back into the water supply system. After some time, the safety valve wears out, becomes covered with a layer of scale and leaks, all this is accompanied by noise. In this case, you need to clean it or replace it with a new one.

The bypass valve whistles - At the time of heating, the liquid tends to expand. To prevent an explosion of the tank, each unit is equipped with a bypass valve, which, if the system pressure is excessive, releases liquid into the drain, which, although rare, can be accompanied by a squeak. It is required to change it.

Noise can arise as a result of airing the device, in other words, air enters the tank together with the liquid. Most often, this is of a short-term nature and is normalized when the water supply is restored. A similar effect occurs if the water is enriched with oxygen in large quantities from the outset.

In the first part of the article on the repair of instantaneous water heaters, the principle of operation of this household equipment was given, so that it would be easier for a novice master to understand the essence of the problems that arise.

In this continuation of the article, it will be described in more detail about the protection elements and an algorithm for troubleshooting in instantaneous water heaters will be given.

There will also be shown videos recorded by home craftsmen in the process of repairing their instantaneous water heaters.

If the flow sensor is damaged and it is jammed in the on position, then when the tap is closed, the water in this small heating zone is very overheats quicklywhich could damage the heater itself due to the increase in pressure. Also, due to the lack of cooling, the heating elements will overheat. To prevent this from happening, temperature control sensors must be present in instantaneous water heaters.

Water flow sensor for KISPEL water heater

In the model considered in the previous article, the sensors T1 and T2 are made in the form of one element, although their purpose is different. The temperature sensor T1 is set to operate when the temperature exceeds 60 ° C, it interrupts the circuit. After cooling, T1 returns to the operating position again. Exceeding the temperature in this case is possible for a number of reasons not related to a breakdown in the water heater.

Thermal sensors T1 and T2 are combined in one device, indicated as an overheating sensor

Thermal sensor T2 is set to a temperature of 90 ° C - one might say - this is the extreme line of protection. It will work in the event of a breakdown of the flow sensor and temperature sensor T1. Such a breakdown will not be eliminated by itself, therefore, this protective device after triggering is necessary enable manually after the repair of the water heater. For water heaters with a digital interface, breakdowns or incorrect sensor readings will be displayed as a highlighted error code on the display. An example of how to eliminate one of the errors is shown in the video below, which also describes the function of thermal fuses and the repair of the electronic unit of one of the models of the Termeks water heater:

Depending on the model and design of the water heater, the control system for its operation can be performed in different ways. For example, in the THERMEX STREAM model, the temperature is controlled by water flow control. Myself flow is regulated special shower or washbasin heads supplied. In this case, the protection components are a pressure switch and a thermal fuse (temperature sensor).

Disassembled THERMEX STREAM flow heater

Accordingly, the electrical schematic diagram of this water heater differs significantly from the above wiring diagram - here the phase current sequentially passes through the pressure switch and the thermal fuse, which returns to the on position after the temperature drops. Before self-repairing the water heater, be sure to study the electrical diagram and instructions from the manufacturer.

An example of a circuit of instantaneous water heaters THERMEX STREAM

As can be seen from a comparison of two schemes from one manufacturer, the principle of control and protection in these models of water heaters is significantly different. Water heaters have a completely different design, respectively, and the scheme will be different. Below, for example, an electrical diagram of the Atmor water heater is shown.

Diagram of instantaneous water heater ATMOR, power 7 kW

Also, some models may have an electronic interface directly connected to the power relays for controlling the power supply of heating elements. This means that a breakdown in this electronic board, or a failure of the algorithm can lead to the stoppage of the water heater. Some instantaneous water heaters can have temperature control, which is achieved by switching heating elements, or using an electronic circuit.