Heateq water heater DIY repair

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Prompt, at EVN Heateq C-50 V water ran out from under some plastic plug at the top. What's going on and what is this stub?

In this case, the device needs to be replaced with a new one, it is useless to do something.

Accumulative water heater Heateq C-80 V. Leaked through the seal on the flange. After disassembling, cleaning, assembling, the heating does not turn off automatically, the temperature shows almost to the scale limit. Is it possible to adjust the thermostat? How does it work?

Set the thermostat to one third of heating (no more or less). If it turns off normally, then everything is fine, if not, then this thermostat needs to be replaced.

Please tell me what to do? I have this boiler. I always turned it on myself, and in the morning I asked my son to turn it on - in the end, the thread apparently turned. The light is off, the water does not heat. What to do?

The thermostat needs to be replaced, you'd better call a repairman.

I have a Heateq C-80 storage water heater. When turned on, the lamp does not light up and the heating elements do not work. I read in the instructions that the reason is in the thermal switch - it worked, you have to press the button. But clicking on it does not click, it does not work, that is, it throws it back, but on a straight line everything works. Could the thermal switch break?

This thermal switch must be replaced.

We installed this heater two weeks ago. It does not heat up now, the indicator light is on. Could there be problems with the heating elements in such a short period?

Close the cold water tap to the appliance. Wait 3 hours, if it heats up, then the problem is in the plumbing.

EVN Heateq C-30 YV accumulative. New, water is supplied, the device is filled with it. At the first switching on of modes I and II, the EVN does not turn on and there is no indication (the RCD test runs normally). There is a reason in the instructions - the thermostat button may not be turned on. The instructions say: in case of this malfunction, disconnect the device from the mains, remove the cover and press the button until it clicks. The question is which cover to remove? And should the water be drained or not?

Do not drain the water. Remove the cover from below, the device is secured with 3 screws. There will be a thermal protection inside that you need to press.

Model Heateq FEA 50 V. The water heats up, but the temperature is not high enough, therefore the thermal protection button does not work. Previously, when opening the water tap, there was a whistle, but now it is not.

During installation, the safety valve was overtightened, so you get a whistle. Its replacement is required.

When the water heater is filled with water, the water pressure flows from the safety valve (two valves have already been changed). Tell me what is the problem?

You need to install a pressure reducer. Replacing the valve will not solve the problem.

I use a 50 liter Heateq boiler. I decided to rinse it out, closed the screws and began to drain the water, but only about 10 liters poured out. How much should it be?

If the tank is 50 liters, then 50 should be. You can drain the water through the cold water pipe or drain valve. It is necessary to give air access to the hot water pipe, otherwise a vacuum will form and water will not flow.

I have a problem with this device, it has been in operation for a year. Start to cut down the RCD. I turn off both heating modes - the RCD turns off anyway. Tell me what to do?

You have a problem, most likely, in the heating element (TEN). We need to verify it.

I have a Heateq C-50 storage water heater, it worked for six months.About 2 months after the purchase, it began to make noise, and recently began to be electrocuted from the water. I assume that one of the heating elements is out of order, the RCD does not work (good, checked). When you change the position of the plug in the outlet, electric shocks are obtained in different ways, i.e. in one position, when the water is heated, everything is fine, but when the temperature is maintained, it bites; in a different position, when heated, it beats, but with support, everything is fine.

It is necessary to check the heating elements. On examination, you can identify the cause and prevent this in the future. You need to call the repairman or contact the service.

We bought a Heateq boiler. Hot water runs out very quickly (1 person is not enough to wash). Previously, they used another device of 50 liters, so there was enough for 2 people at the same temperature and there was still hot water, you could easily wash the dishes. What could be the problem? There is enough water for about 15-25 minutes (provided that it does not constantly flow), that is, approximately enough for one person to swim. The temperature was set at 60 and 65 degrees. As I understand it, by design, there are 2 tanks in the EVN. Could it be that one of the tanks is inactive or something like that. I repeat once again, with another device, such a problem was not observed, although there was a water temperature of 50-60 degrees. Have been using it for 8 years, and so far everything is fine there.

At normal water pressure (2-4 bar) in a 50-liter appliance, the water should last 15 minutes longer with constant use and maximum heating when mixed with cold. In your case, most likely everything is in order. There are two things to do. Reduce the pressure of hot water by a valve supplying cold water by at least one third. And increase the heating to the maximum. The fact that this tank consists of two does not
prevents it from working normally.

EVN Heateq C-30. When water is heated, a whistle, rattling ringing, vibration inside the tank is often heard. After opening the tap with hot water, the hum stops for a while, and then rings again. The device works for about three months. There is a filter on cold water. Connected according to the scheme. The sounds appeared two months ago. What could be the reason?

You need to check or replace the safety valve. During installation, they could have passed it.

We bought a heater, installed it, turned it on, but the indicator on the tank does not light up, however, as I understand it, there is an automatic device with an indicator on the supply wire. It glows and it seems like there is a consumption of e-mail. energy. Tell me, is this normal and acceptable?

If the water heats up, then you need to remove the cover from the bottom. Most likely, the light bulb terminal just popped out of the thermostat. We need to put it in its place.

My brand new storage water heater Heateq C-50 V has a bloated tank after the very first turn on. What's the matter here? And is this a warranty case?

You need to check if the installation is correct.

We bought a boiler for 80 liters. After installation, water immediately began to drip from the safety valve. What should be done? EVN is brand new.

It is necessary to check the water pressure in the system.

The hot water was turned off, and I decided to turn on the boiler installed a year ago, but the indicator did not light up. The RCD works normally, but the device does not turn on (there is water in it). I called the center, the specialist advised me to remove the cover from the bottom and press the button of the temperature sensor (or thermostat). And so he did. It turned out the following: when I press the button of this regulator, everything works, let go - it goes out. What could be?

This thermal protection is out of order, it needs to be replaced.

I decided to use the boiler, I opened everything I needed for water. It does not collect water when turned on and knocks out plugs. What to do?

You have a problem with the electrics of the appliance, they could have turned on without water. You need to check the heating elements or call a repairman.

The apartment has an 80 liter EVN. In work for 5 years. After the autumn operation, at the moment the switch was turned off, I heard cotton and smelled of plastic.Now, when you plug it into the outlet and turn on the switch, the light comes on, but immediately after turning it off, the pop repeats again and a smell appears. When removing the cover, I did not find any visible damage, except for a little melted contacts on the switch. Will replacing the switch solve the problem? Or is it possible that the breakdown is more serious?

Since the device is already 5 years old, it can be different. First, try replacing the switch, then follow the result.

I press the thermal protection button, and it snaps off again. What could be the reason?

In this case, the thermal protection is out of order and must be replaced.

Water heater EVN Heateq C-80 V, vertical. 3 years after the purchase, the ten was changed. What will be the warranty period for the installed heating element?

You will have a guarantee for teng from the seller where you bought it, you need to clarify there.

There was no water heater for six months and suddenly noticed that I began to keep the temperature up to 50 degrees, and when I turned it on higher, I began to knock out the machine. What is the problem?

The power of the machine may be weak.

I have an EVN for 80 liters. The problem is this. RCD has tripped. Unable to turn on immediately. After an hour or two, it starts up - the device works in all modes, heats up. Heating up to the set temperature, the RCD is triggered again. And it repeats again - an hour or two turns on, works, heats up to normal and turns off again. What is the reason?

It is necessary to check the electrical part of the device with a tester. This is probably ten, but you can only find out for sure after a diagnosis.

The water heater has been in operation for 5 years. For the first time after so many years of work, now, when it was turned on again after winter, after 15 minutes, the following began: the plug and the cord from the plug are heated for 20 cm, a strange smell and white smoke from the outlet appears. In this case, the water really heats up. There are two sockets, both double. A washing machine is constantly switched on in one double (does not smoke), in the other - nothing. Smoke at first
alternately a free double socket, and then the second of the double (the included plug of the washing machine does not smoke). Can't find the answer, please help.

You need to check the electrical part of the device with a tester and replace what is faulty. Most likely, these are tens.

I can't quite figure out how to use this device, where to start. They said that you need to turn off the hot water. For what and how often? Is it really constant how I want to wash the dishes or wash? And how to determine if there is water in it?

You need to turn off the hot water riser tap and open the two valves on the appliance. This is done once, when you start using it. Further, it is always with water, it never happens empty.

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, periodically breaks down.

If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.

To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.

An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.

The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over.This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.

Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.

The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.

To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.

As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.

Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.

Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.

Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.

The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.

The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.

Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.

First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.

If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.

If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.

Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced. In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.

After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.

Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.

If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.

A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.

The water heater tank most often leaks if:

• damage to the internal tank has occurred;
• the heating element has deteriorated;
• leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.

A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.

If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center.Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.

Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.

On horizontal devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.

After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.

If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.

The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

• increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;
• the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;
• the appearance of impurities in tap water, changes in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
2. Remove the protective cover.
3. Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.
4. Shut off cold water supply.
5. Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.
6. Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.
7. Remove the heating element and descale it.
8. Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.
9. Rinse the device thoroughly.
10. Check the health of the magnesium anode.
11. If necessary, replace this element immediately.
12. Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.
13. Install the heating element in place.
14. Reassemble the device.
15. Check the tightness of all fasteners.
16. Connect the water heater to the power supply.
17. Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.

This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.

A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

It is not so difficult to repair a water heater when it comes to replacing some of its elements. In the event of a serious breakdown, it would be wiser to contact a specialized service center. Correct use of the device and its timely maintenance will save you many problems and costs.

If an electric boiler breaks down in your apartment, then it is not at all necessary to call the master - you can figure everything out on your own, having straight hands and the simplest tools. If you call the master, his services will cost a round sum. In the end, storage water heaters have a simple design, so that self-repair of the boiler will not cause any difficulties.

Here is a list of the main boiler failures:

• Does not heat water;
• Heats the water poorly;
• The tank is leaking;
• The tank is not filled with water.

In fact, there is simply nothing to break here, especially if you are looking at a simple model without an electronic control module.

If you see water droplets or rust on the heating block of your boiler, then most likely it is leaking.

The most common breakdowns are leaks. Over time, water heater tanks begin to leak, even if they are equipped with corrosion protection. Stainless steel tanks are also susceptible to leaks, various seals wear out here. You can repair leaks at home - but first you need to figure out their causes.

Do-it-yourself water heater repair begins with its dismantling. But before that, you need to drain the water from the boiler using the methods described on our website. After the boiler is empty, it must be dismantled, disassembled and inspected. If the tank is flowing in an arbitrary place or at welds, soldering will be required using special fluxes and solders (for brazing steel, sold in hardware stores). For this, the damaged area is cleaned with sandpaper and wiped with a degreasing agent. And only after that you can start soldering.

Leaks can manifest themselves directly on the flanges. This means it is time to replace the gaskets. They can be purchased from some service centers or ordered through online stores. After replacing the gasket, you can forget about leaks. But even in this case, it is recommended to completely remove the tank and inspect it for integrity - it is quite possible that there are traces of other damage on it.

Many factors indicate that it is time to change the heating element. For example, the boiler may stop heating the water or start hurting with an electric shock. Replacing the heating element begins with draining the water and dismantling the boiler. Next, we open access to the heating element, take a test or a multimeter in our hands, check the resistance of the heater - it should vary from 40 to 70 Ohm, depending on its model. If the measuring device shows an open circuit, the heating element can be safely changed.

Set the multimeter to the audible dialing mode, and place its contacts on the heating element according to the diagram, if there is a squeak, then your heating element must be replaced.

If the boiler fights with current, you need to check the insulation resistance between its contacts and the body (one probe for the body, the second probe for one of the contacts). In megohmmeter mode, the meter should show infinitely high resistance. If it is tens or hundreds of ohms, then this indicates a breakdown. Since the heating elements are not repaired, they just need to be changed. To do this, we buy a similar model and install it in the boiler.

If the problem is related to a lack of heating or wild overheating, then the problem may lie in the thermostat. You need to check it with a multimeter and see how it reacts to heating. If a mechanical thermostat with a bimetallic plate is installed in the boiler, press the control button and heat the thermostat with a soldering iron or lighter. If the button bounces off after heating, then the thermostat is working. At the same time, you need to check the integrity of its contacts using an ordinary multimeter.

To clean the heating element of the water heater from scale, use the available means: a metal brush, a knife, etc.

Is your boiler making noise like an electric kettle? Does it heat water poorly, continuously consuming kilowatts of electricity? The scum covering the surface of the heating element is to blame for everything. It has a low thermal conductivity, so the heat from the heater is practically not transferred to the water. As for the noise, this is the noise of water in the thickness of the scale itself. Thus, all scale must be removed from here. We start repairing the boiler by draining the water, then remove the water heater from the wall, remove the heating element and start cleaning it.

Cleaning the heating element from scale can be done in different ways. The mechanical method involves removing the main layer of scale with your hands while it is still wet. After that, we take sandpaper in our hands and carefully remove the remnants of lime deposits from the heating element. As a result, we should get a clean and shiny heating element.

The chemical method involves the use of special reagents that dissolve or soften scale. These can be purchased at hardware stores, but be sure to check consumer reviews first. As for strong acids, it is better not to use them - they can damage the metal of the heater.

Do-it-yourself boiler repair is quite a simple matter. But if electronics "covered" in your boiler (refers to models with electronic control and various digital indicators), and there is no corresponding knowledge, you will have to call the wizard. We can also recommend periodic maintenance. They include:

• Descaling the heating element;
• Descaling the tank;
• Replacing the magnesium anode.

There is no need to wait until the boiler starts making noise or stops heating the water - arrange periodic cleaning of the heating elements, which will extend the service life of the water heater and prevent its premature failure (for example, the heating element can overheat).

Water heating tanks need periodic descaling and debris removal, what accumulates in their lower part - all this is removed through the flanges. If the garbage is not removed, bacteria will begin to multiply. It also affects the service life of the tanks. When cleaning the tank or heating element, it is necessary to pay attention to the inspection of the magnesium anode - it is quite possible that it is worn out and needs to be replaced.

Most water heaters have a typical device and must be repaired at home with your own hands, using a tool that is always available from a home craftsman. We have prepared a detailed guide for you to help you learn how to maintain and repair water heaters

The moment at which the water heater fails is always the most inappropriate. However, even at home, most faults are easily remedied. This is true both for the simplest tanks and for heaters with double tanks and electronic control.

Most often, the heating element fails. The tank shows no signs of life, the indicator light does not turn on and, although the thermostat characteristically clicks, giving the command to turn on, the water remains cold. In this situation, the most difficult thing for you will be to find a heating element and a repair kit suitable for the boiler. Symptoms are not always unambiguous: sometimes the indicator light itself can fail when the heating element is fully working, so watch the temperature.

Leakage of the tank is also a common defect. As a rule, this is due to the unsuitability of the sealing collar, which covers the technical neck of the boiler. The malfunction is accompanied by very little water seepage, which often goes unnoticed by the owner and a crust of lime and oxides gradually builds up inside the technical compartment. If it did not come to the destruction of the tank walls, the problem is solved by ordinary cleaning and repacking of the neck with the replacement of the magnesium anode.

The most dangerous is the failure of the thermostat, because of which the water heater simply refuses to turn on or, worse, does not turn off when the set temperature is reached.In the absence of a pressure relief valve, the latter can lead to very, very disastrous consequences.

It is recommended to follow one simple rule: if the boiler has the slightest signs of malfunction, it is better to carry out a complete disassembly and comprehensive revision. To do this, you need to drain the water through the cold water supply pipe by opening the "hot" tap for air suction. With the correct hydraulic piping of the boiler, this possibility is always provided. Unpack the connection fittings and loosen the anchoring nuts to lift the tank up and off the wall.

Classically shaped water heaters are served from the bottom. First you need to remove the protective cover of the control unit by unscrewing several screws and unfastening the latches. The task is quite subtle: not only can some of the fastening screws be hidden under stickers, a regulator knob or a nameplate, but also fragile clips are located far from obvious places.

There is an electrical wiring inside the block: we remove the red and blue wire, terminated with terminals, from the TEN's contacts, disconnect the yellow-green wire by twisting the grounding nut onto the body. Following them, we disconnect the thermostat and temperature controller wires, remove the heat conductor, which is sometimes made in the form of an ordinary single-wire copper wire.

Having separated the tank and the electrical part, we twist the technical flange fastening nuts. After removing them, you need to pull up and tear off the flange from the neck, it can stick to it thoroughly. In this case, the tank must be in an inverted position so that the remaining water does not flow out onto the floor.

When the flange, together with the devices attached to it, is removed, you can visually assess the quality of the tap water. Scrape off the main part of the dirt from the functional elements directly into the tank and set aside for the time being, we will return to the heating element and the anode a little later.

In stylish and modern tanks, the lower part of the body acts as a protective casing. Display and control panels, built-in thermometer are auxiliary equipment that is not directly related to operation; in case of failure, they change modularly.

Most electrical faults can be diagnosed as soon as the protective cover is unfastened. With a multimeter in the voltage measurement mode, we check the presence of potential at the terminals of the heating element, making sure that the connection diagram is working correctly. There is no water in the tank, so we apply voltage to the heating element for no more than 3-5 seconds. So, if there is voltage, but there is no heating, the heating element burned out, if there is no voltage when the thermostat is on, the electrical part is faulty. Following from the heating element to the power wire, look for the coveted 230 V at key switching points and identify the faulty part of the circuit.

Let's start with the heating element: in the resistance measurement mode, we touch the contact plates with the probes. The resistance, depending on the power, should be in the range of 15-60 ohms. Please also note that there are combined heating elements with several coils and, accordingly, with several pairs of leads.

If the item is found to be suitable, the problem is most likely in the control thermostat. This device has a forced ON button. If, when you press it, voltage is applied to the heating element or the button stubbornly refuses to be pressed, the malfunction lies here. The thermostat can be removed, snapped off the case and try to restore the jammed mechanism, the principle of which is quite obvious. But these devices are cheap and it is easier to include a new part in a repair kit.

All places with a detachable electrical contact must be cleaned of traces of corrosion, tighten the connection terminals with pliers and restore the melted insulation in places.

Boiler repairs involve a good portion of the dirty work. Filling and draining water through the neck several times, you need to remove all large debris.Then assess how bad the tank is, whether there are traces of deep corrosion.

The tank must not be cleaned mechanically, especially if it is covered with glass enamel. For these purposes, a wide range of gentle chemistry is intended, which can have an acid-etching and alkaline principle of removing deposits. For coated tanks, the difference is not fundamental, but for unprotected stainless steel, means with a high Ph will be preferable.

To speed up the process, you can use a plastic bristle brush. After cleaning the tank, visually assess the condition of the welds, just to have an idea of ​​how long the boiler can still last. Be sure to also remove all deposits and rust from the neck, otherwise the flange will leak after packing.

Actually, this is where the repair ends: having identified the faulty parts, you need to purchase a replacement and, in most cases, install a new sealing lip. Unscrew the rest of the magnesium anode and screw in a new one. The heating element, if still working, must be peeled off of scale and returned to its place, or replaced.

Heating elements are usually fastened under a wide pressure washer or through a wire through a sealing collet.

The cuff is pulled over the neck, followed by the installation of the flange with all the reinstalled elements. We tighten the nuts through one or crosswise, achieving the most tight and even pressure on all sides.

You just have to reconnect the electrical contacts and check the boiler's performance before returning it to its place. It is better to do this by measuring the current with a short-term turn-on, or by assembling the circuit by weight before packing the flange, immersing the heating element in a bucket of water.

Boilers Termeks have long established themselves as reliable and unpretentious household appliances. But like any other technique, they are prone to malfunction. Some of the breakdowns can be eliminated with your own hands, and in case of other malfunctions, the repair of the Termeks water heater should be done by a master.

Before disassembling the device, you need to have at least a little understanding of its design and principle of operation.

• body material is sheet steel with anti-corrosion coating;
• alloy steel, durable and resistant to corrosion, used for the manufacture of the inner tank;
• the elements of the device (heating element, magnesium anode and thermostat) are installed on a metal flange;
• magnesium anode is a rod covered with a covered magnesium alloy - this part protects the tank from corrosion;
• a drain pipe through which hot water is discharged (the intake takes place at the top of the tank, where the water temperature is higher);
• the space between the outer shell and the tank is filled with polyurethane foam for good thermal insulation - due to this, the liquid in the switched off unit retains the temperature for a long time (like in a thermos);
• heating element is used to heat water;
• when the water heats up to a certain temperature, the heating turns off thermostatlocated at the bottom of the apparatus, it also turns on heating when the liquid cools down;
• a tube is installed at the bottom of the tank through which cold water flows.

The water heater is running by convection principle:

• through the supply pipe, water enters the storage tank;
• the thermostat turns on the heating element to heat the liquid to the temperature set on the thermostat;
• due to the physical law of convection, warm water begins to rise;
• in the upper part of the tank there is an entrance to the pipe for the intake of heated water, which is supplied to the consumer;
• when the hot water is consumed and the temperature in the tank drops, the thermostat will turn on the heating again and the process will be repeated.

The design of the water heater is quite simple and there may be several causes of malfunctions. There are breakdowns in which it is possible to repair Termex water heaters with your own hands:

• the device does not heat the liquid;
• the unit heats the water slowly;
• the boiler often turns off or does not turn on;
• water flow from the tank.

When the liquid in the device does not heat up, then a possible cause may be a malfunction of the heating element. Signs of its failure, in addition to the lack of water heating, may be as follows: knocking out the automatics on the dashboard, permanently turning off the RCD (residual current device), receiving an electric shock through the water.

The heating element can come out of the three if:

• the unit was turned on without water and the overheating protection did not work;
• The heating element was “overgrown” with a thick layer of scale and was out of order due to overheating;
• there was a sharp jump in the voltage in the network;
• the heater has expired.

To check the heating element for damage, you need use a tester (with a special measuring device). If the device, switched to resistance mode, shows infinity, it means that the heater coil has burned out. If zero is displayed on the device, a short circuit has occurred. In both cases, the heater must be replaced.

Heater Replacement Procedure in a 50 liter Termex boiler is not difficult, but requires patience and attention.

1. Before draining water from a failed Termeks water heater, the unit should be de-energized. After that, release water from the container of the device, and unscrew all hoses or pipes from the nozzles.
2. Remove the device from the wall and turn it over.
   

Carefully, using a screwdriver, pry up the decorative plugs and remove them.

It should be noted that a screw is hidden under the sticker, often due to which craftsmen, when trying to disassemble the unit, break the cover.

In order not to confuse the location of all wires in the future during assembly, they must be marked with construction tape (by signing them), or photographed.

Now you need to unscrew the nuts holding the flange. In this model of the unit, there are 4 of them on each heating element.

Remove the retainer washer. If it is stuck, you can use a screwdriver.

Remove the heating element. It also often sticks to the body and requires a slight pry with a screwdriver to detach it.

The second flange contains more wires. They all need to be disconnected.

After disconnecting the wires, unscrew all nuts, remove the washer and remove the heater.

Now you need to completely unscrew the entire electrical part, which is held by 4 screws.

There is also a screw hidden under the board, which must be unscrewed.

After that, the decorative cover can be easily removed.

The method of replacing heaters in the 80 liter Termex boiler is not much different from the above.

This is a fairly common malfunction that appears during prolonged operation of the device without preventive cleaning. If, when the boiler is on, you hear noises coming from the tank, and the water heats up for a long time, this means that the heating elements are "overgrown" with scale. Its thick layer interferes with the full transfer of heat from the heater to the surrounding liquid. This can cause the cell to overheat and burn out. With such a problem, it will be easy to make repairs with your own hands.

How to disassemble a water heater to replace heating elements has been mentioned above. In a situation when the heating elements are in good order, but they have a large layer of scale, then it must be removed from the heaters. Mechanical cleaning (with a file, sharp objects and sandpaper) is not recommended due to possible damage to the heating element housing.

For safe descaling, you can use chemicals specially designed for this. You can buy them at a household chemicals store or service center.

For descaling, prepare a container, the depth of which will be slightly deeper than the heater itself, for example, a bucket.

1. It is necessary to dilute the descaler (which is acid) in a bucket, observing the percentage of concentration, which is indicated in the instructions. If the concentration is less, then the cleansing will be ineffective.
2. Dip the heating element in the acid solution and time it. Dissolution may take from several minutes to 2 or more hours.The cleaning time depends on the thickness of the formed layer and the properties of the solution.

It is important to follow the instructions for the descaler and not to overexpose the heaters in acid. After cleaning the heating elements, it is enough to rinse it with running water.

The reason that the Termeks water heater turns off without reaching the desired temperature, or does not turn on at all, may be faulty thermostat... It is checked with a resistance tester. If it is missing, the part should be replaced. To do this, just remove the bottom cover of the device, disconnect the wires and replace the thermostat.

If a leak is detected from the container, the problem is solved by replacing it. Here you should calculate how much it will cost you to replace or repair the tank, and what is the price of a new unit. It is recommended not to spend money on repairs, but to purchase a new boiler.

If you nevertheless decide on an independent repair of the Termeks boiler tank, then the following difficulties should be taken into account:

• when dismantling the tank from the outer casing, you will certainly damage the shell;
• if the device has a plastic reservoir, it cannot be restored.
• if the material of the container is copper or stainless steel, then you can try to solder it, but it will be problematic to do it efficiently without a special tool at home.

Some models of water heaters have glass enamel coated containers. When you try to repair such a tank by brazing, you will inevitably damage this layer, after which it will be impossible to repair it.

In a situation where water seeps out from under the flange, the problem may lie in rubber gasketthat has worn out. To replace it, you need to de-energize the unit, drain the water, disassemble the device according to the above instructions and replace the gasket.

Some types of malfunctions of the Termex boiler can only be eliminated by a master, and it is highly discouraged to make repairs on your own in such cases. Problems that can only be solved by a specialist:

• incorrect operation and emergency shutdowns of new equipment for which the warranty service has not expired;
• the settings on the electronic thermostat are reset;
• RCD often turns off the unit;
• a tank leak, although the effectiveness of such a repair is questionable - it will be cheaper to purchase a new device.

But before calling the service, make sure that in the line through which cold water is supplied, there is a pressure... There are models of units that turn off the boiler in the absence of pressure in the supply line.