Water heater termex 80 liters DIY repair

In detail: 80 liter Termex water heater DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Water heaters Termeks are famous for their reliability, relative unpretentiousness in the process of use and ease of management.

But there is also a hole in the old woman, and a moment may come when the heater stops heating, or heats up weakly. It can also start to flow, which is also not particularly pleasant. And now the moment comes when, willy-nilly, you have to think about repairing the water heater.

Before starting repairs, you need to find out what is the cause of the problem.

This can be understood beforehand without disassembling the device itself.

The main malfunctions of electric water heaters are:

the device does not turn on;
short circuit protection (RCD) is triggered;
the water heater does not heat the water, or does not comply with the heating rate;
the boiler leaked.

If a leak appears, it is necessary to find out where it is flowing. If the heating element gasket has leaked, then such a defect can be easily eliminated. You just need to replace it with a new one, especially since they cost a penny.

It is possible to preliminarily understand that it is the heating element that has failed by such indirect signs:

protective automatics are triggered;
knocks out the machine on the counter;
water does not heat up, or the device heats up poorly;
the hissing of the water heater and the release of water of a cloudy consistency with an unpleasant odor.

With such symptoms, the greatest probability of failure of the heating element is. This can be determined by the appearance of the heating element itself - the shell is damaged.

Sometimes the heating elements burn out without visible damage to the shell, then this can be determined using a tester.

If the ohmmeter shows infinity at the terminals, then the nichrome spiral is broken.

If zero, then there is a short circuit somewhere. In any case, such an element needs a replacement.

In some cases, the heating element fails for the following reasons:

The heating element has fulfilled its term;
the unit was turned on without water;
the water heater was turned off for a long time, but the water was not drained;
sudden voltage drops in the network.

Video (click to play).

In any case, the heating element needs to be changed. Of course, the easiest way is to use the services of a master, but it is quite possible to change the heating element yourself. It is necessary to warn that repairs must be done in a certain sequence so that there is no confusion. This is an important precondition for a successful renovation.

Preparation before repair is as follows:

Disconnecting the water heater from the network. Unplug the plug from the socket.
Close the non-return valve and water supply valves.
The cold water hose is disconnected and the fluid is drained. There will be a small amount, only residues in the system.
The hot water hose is disconnected and the water already in the tank is drained. If there is no separate pipe for draining water, a check valve is used as it, although the water in this case is drained for a long time.
It is necessary to completely drain the water, after which the water heater is removed. It is best to do this together, because the weight of the water heater is large enough without water.

Read the article on how to properly replace the heating element in the Thermex water heater here.

Then the bottom cover is removed to access the heating elements. You need to be careful here, because the entire electrical part of the water heater is hidden under the cover.

It should be noted that sometimes the screws are labeled on top. Before starting to dismantle the thermostat, it is better to take a photo or sketch the connections.

The following is the sequence:

the contacts of the heating element are disconnected;
fastons are released from the thermostat contacts;
the nut holding the thermostat is dismantled and removed away;
the thermostat sensors are removed from the tubing of the heating element;
the nuts of the heating element mounting plate are unscrewed;
The heating element is carefully removed from the unit body;
The heating element is checked by external inspection for the integrity of the shell;
The heating element is called by the tester for open and short circuit.

After the cause of the heater malfunction has been determined, the necessary spare parts are purchased.

Before installing a new heating element, it is strongly recommended to thoroughly clean the water heater tank.

This must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the inner surface. It is necessary to inspect the magnesium anode as well, most likely it will also have to be replaced. In general, there is a recommendation that the anode needs to be replaced annually.

Read the article on installing and connecting a Thermex water heater with your own hands here.

After reading this article, you will learn how to properly disassemble the Thermex water heater.

Next, a new heating element is installed.

It should be noted that the new element must correspond as much as possible to the burnt one, especially in the part in which it is attached to the water heater body, and the number of tubes for thermostat sensors must also correspond to the old one.

The assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

a silicone gasket is installed, it is best to install a new one, its cost is quite low, and a fresh gasket will ensure the tightness of the connection, otherwise there may be leaks;
the magnesium anode is inserted into the appropriate place on the heating element;
the assembled heating element is inserted into its place in the body of the device;
the mounting bar is put in place, the heating element is pressed against it and the nuts are tightened;
thus, the assembly takes place as a mirror image of the dismantling. Next, using a photo, an electrician is connected and the lid is screwed on.

The fully assembled water heater is returned to its place on the wall. Here, again, it is advisable to do this operation together. Moreover, installation is a slightly more complicated operation than removal.

Then the tank is filled with water, and you need to make sure that there are no leaks. If everything is normal and no leaks are observed, you can perform a test switch-on. The water heater is ready for use again.

Watch a video in which an experienced user explains in detail how you can repair a Termex water heater with your own hands:

In fact, it is just a metal thermos with heating elements and "brains" that are connected to the water supply and electricity. Look for more information on the Internet.

Hello to all! This article will teach you to beware of service centers and it is possible to repair and prevent water heaters.
Six months ago, during the operation of a Thermex® vertical flat electric water heater with a volume of 80 liters, a built-in RCD was triggered at my relatives.

All pictures can be enlarged for viewing by simply clicking on them.

Without hesitation, a relative takes this water heater to certified service center "Morozych", which is located in the building of KSK ZMMK on the street. Etc. Builders, Ulan-Ude, for repairs. The repair was carried out on a tight schedule. According to the issued receipt, it turned out that the 1300 W heating element had been replaced. The cost of spare parts and work amounted to 3000 rubles, 3 months warranty.

Everything seems to be fine, everything is connected, everything works, but six months have passed and again the same problem. Now they asked me to look.

The first step was disconnected from the power supply and from the water.
The water was drained from the tank. 80 liters are not drained quickly.
The heater was removed and turned upside down. We unscrewed the safety valve, two small self-tapping screws on the sides of the case and one screw hidden under the sticker in the center of the bottom cover.

Reference: Safety valve.

Prevents spontaneous drainage of water from the water heater when the cold water supply in the main network is turned off;
Equalizes the pressure of the heated water with the pressure of the water in the water supply system: when the pressure in the water heater rises above the pressure of the water in the main network, the valve opens and the pressure drops to the main one.
When the permissible pressure in the main network rises, the excess pressure is automatically released through the drain hole of the check valve.

Opening the water heater and checking the insulation of the heating elements showed that the 1300 W heating element had been broken and had to be changed. The second heating element for 700 W turned out to be intact.
Replacing heating elements in a Thermex® water heater is not tricky, but it requires accuracy and attention. I recommend taking pictures of all stages of work so that there are no extra parts left during assembly.
Having taken out a heating element of 1300 W, we found that there was no magnesium anode at all on it. Here it is necessary to clarify that the anode did not dissolve completely, but was not stupidly installed when replacing the heating element in the workshop. This fact was confirmed by the absence of a stud with which the anode is screwed to the heating element body. Later, having visited this center, they asked the receptionist: "Why didn't they install a magnesium anode?" She replied that we apparently did not want to ourselves because of the high cost (see prices below), like many refuse. This fact speaks of the incompetence of the employees of the Morozych service center. To operate an electric water heater without a magnesium anode - just kill it.

Reference: Magnesium anode.

Designed to reduce galvanic corrosion of the inner tank.
To extend the service life of the water heater, it is recommended to replace the magnesium anode at least once every 6 months.

Just in case, they removed the second heating element and found that there was a magnesium anode, but it all came out (see photo) and needs to be replaced.
In addition, when the body was turned over, it was heard how something rolls inside and at the same time makes a strong rustle. It turned out to be scale. Pulling it out is dancing with tambourines. A lot came out, but it should be done without fail. There is a tip in the video attached under the article.

The question arose: Where to buy heating elements and anodes? We decided to contact the service center.
On the way to the aforementioned "Morozych" I came across another (I won't say the name until the money for advertising is paid), where the cost of a 1300 W heating element complete with an anode and a new silicone gasket was 1650 rubles. I must say that in "Morozych" the price of the issue was 1,500 rubles for the heating element and plus a small anode for 400 and a large anode for 500 rubles, respectively, and 50 rubles for a gasket. Calculating the total cost is not difficult.
We chose a second center and purchased components there (see photo).

The water heater is assembled in the reverse order. There is one subtlety, tightening the nuts securing the heating element with a new gasket is required crosswise so that there is no distortion and no leakage.

This is how you give the thing for repair, and these "figures" can easily deceive or mislead you. Not only will they take money, but they will not do their job well. So you can not only change the heating elements every six months, but also completely lose the unit. Here is an ambush.

I will never go to an authorized service center "Morozych" and do not advise others.

Any normal man can easily change the heating element and magnesium anode, descale the tank. It is cheaper and the nerves do not suffer.

If you want to do well - do it yourself!

And in the end, I found a short but very useful video on the topic:

Tell me, Termex 80 drips from the bottom, along the round seam, what can it bePossible leakage through the heating element silicone seal.We moved into a rented apartment. The hot water was turned off. Well, we didn't think scared, but in vain ...
We have a 30 liter model with two buttons and a manual thermostat. When you turn it on, nothing happens - nothing burns, the water is cold.Under the bottom cover at the very power input there is a 4-pin box with a thin "button". The button is not pressed inward, but it is pulled out and back itself jumps. In the instructions it is called "safety thermal switch". It must be pressed until it clicks.I was going to press the keys on the control panel and measure the voltage on the tenahs: when one of them was turned on, the machine began to knock out in the apartment, although this had not happened before. Resistance on tenahs: 87 and 38 ohms - it doesn't look like a short circuit.I turn on the keys when the shadows are off: the backlight on them comes on and the machine does not knock out.As a result, I found out that the problem is in the first shade, if you remove the terminals from it and turn on both keys, the machine does not knock out, the second ten is supplied with power .. Having decided that warm water is better than cold one collected with the first turned off ten (wrapped with electrical tape). I collected water - it began to knock out the machine first when the second ten was turned on, and then if the water heater was plugged into the outletPaul! There are no miracles. There is no electronics in your water heater. All parts are electrical (heating elements, wires) or electromechanical (thermostats). It is not difficult to inspect visually and ring each part. You need a device, a tool and a head. I present an approximate diagram of a water heaterIn my humble opinion, Mr. Familiar electrician, the sacrificial anode is not put on a stainless steel, in principle, there is a lot of information about this on the Internet ...Valera! In the case of stainless steel tanks, the main function of the magnesium anode is to prevent corrosion of the heating element. True, it is difficult to determine exactly when the anode will decompose, but its installation and periodic replacement should not be neglected.Termex 80l. Replaced heating element 1.3 kW. When turned on, it gives an E1 error, although there is water in the tank. What is the reason?

Fill the tank up to the stop, the E1 error indicates an empty tank.

The sensor may be covered. Replacement required.

Maybe an electronics glitch. Try to unplug the plug and turn it back on after half a minute. If not, then the easiest way is to change the entire board.

After reading this article, I did everything the same way. But when I took out the heating element 1300W, there was no magnesium anode there either, and the hairpin was missing. The water heater has never been understood before. Apparently, since the tank is made of stainless steel, the manufacturer does not put a magnesium anode. There was only a hairpin on the heating element 700W, although this heating element practically did not work. So to put a magnesium anode or not?Hello Mikhail!
In my opinion, the magnesium anode must be installed. If you don't put it on, it will quickly gobble up the heating element and will repair it again.Do not forget to free the inside of the water heater tank from scale and dirt. The photo below shows the amount of scale and dirt inside the Termeks water heater.This site uses Akismet to combat spam. Find out how your comment data is processed.A household water heater is an irreplaceable thing in the house, and its breakdown deprives us of our usual conveniences. Unfortunately, budget models often fail, and the owners have a natural question: is it possible to fix the device on their own, call a master or drag the tank to a service center. Let's try to figure out the typical breakdowns of the Termeks boiler, which will allow us to optimize costs. Topic of the article: Water heater "Termeks" 80 liters - DIY repair.The body of the water heater, at first glance, looks quite impressive, but in fact, the principle of operation of the device resembles an ordinary electric kettle. Its main components are a thermostat and a tubular electric heater, placed in a housing. There is also a magnesium anode, which most often fails. The heating element is a fechral wire located inside a copper pipe filled with a dielectric.Mains water is an excellent medium for ion exchange between the copper shell and other metal parts of the tank.In essence, the water gradually destroys the metal parts of the boiler. To slow down these processes, the container contains a magnesium rod. In fact, it is used as an ion donor. When the rod breaks down over time, the metal walls of the tank corrode. Image - Thermex water heater 80 liters DIY repair

Important! The disadvantage of Termex tanks is that a minor scratch is quite enough for corrosion to develop in full. The surface of the donor rod is small here.

Before talking about the possibilities of repairing Termeks water heaters with our own hands, let's find out the following nuances.

The tank is under warranty. When contacting the service center, do not remove the brand sticker. This may be a reason for refusing a free repair.
Emergency shutdown in a new device. This defect is typical for small-capacity boilers "Termeks". Only a specialist can help here.
Failure of settings in the thermostat. The electronic “stuffing” of the device sometimes resets its settings in the event of a sudden power outage.

Important! As a rule, repairing a water heating device in a service center is not a cheap pleasure. The cost of repairs and diagnostics on average costs about 30% of the cost of the boiler. Expensive repairs can be avoided if the boiler is installed correctly and anti-corrosion measures are taken in time.

The first sign of a device malfunction is the lack of water heating or very weak heating. The device will need to be repaired in the following situations:

There is no signal about the power supply, there is no current in the electrical circuit.
There is power, the indicator is on, but there is no water heating. This indicates a breakdown of the heating element.
Failure of the thermostat.
The appearance of fistulas or leaks.
Anode wear.

Important! For self-repair, not so much is required: an assembled spare heating element with gaskets included, seals and a magnesium electrode. You will need keys to unscrew the fasteners. To clean the heating element from scale, you need a brush.

Repair algorithm, or how to disassemble the Termeks water heater for DIY repair:

If power is not supplied, check the serviceability of the outlet and the integrity of the electrical circuit as a whole. Power outages may also be the cause. The current indicator and elementary care are your best helpers in such a situation. The reason for the lack of power can be: blocking from "dry" switching on, poor insulation, tripping of the RCD.
The water does not heat up. To check the heating element, remove the cover. This will open access to the heating element terminals. Now, using a tester, check its serviceability. If there is voltage at the terminals, but the heating element does not heat, you need to change the heating element. To do this, disconnect the wires, remove the temperature sensors and unscrew the connection of the platform with the heating anode and heating element. Simultaneously with the replacement of the heater, it is advisable to clean the magnesium electrode or replace it.

Important! Before disconnecting wires, save the order of the wires on any medium. This will help you avoid connection errors.

If the tank starts to leak, then most likely the problem is a violation of the integrity of the gaskets. Replace or rewind flange connections. Sometimes a leak occurs after replacing the heating element. In this case, reinstall the heating element. If the leak is caused by corrosion of the storage tank, the device cannot be repaired.
Water does not heat up with a working heating element? it is recommended to check the thermostat for proper operation.

Important! If the boiler is out of order and you need to choose a new device, we suggest using our rating of water heaters.

Hard water is the worst enemy of hot water appliances. Calcium and magnesium salts contained in tap water contribute to the appearance of sediment on the surface of the heating element. Therefore, the heater must be cleaned once a year with a citric acid or acetic acid solution, which destroys the sediment.

Important! To extend the service life and avoid damage to water heaters, use filters to purify water in the apartment.

When the hot water supply cannot be called stable, many decide to acquire a domestic water heater, for example, the Thermex electric water heater. However, it can fail quite unexpectedly. This is especially true for inexpensive boiler models. Of course, you can immediately contact the master, or you can try to fix the breakdown yourself.

Thermex is an electric water heater that can easily provide the house with hot water in summer or in the absence of a gas boiler. It should be clarified that Thermex water heaters are produced by the oldest concern in Russia, which first released its products back in 1995. Moreover, all products, including water heaters, fully comply with Russian and international standards.

Thermex boilers are used to heat water if the pressure of cold water in the water supply is not lower than 0.05 MPa and does not exceed 0.6 MPa. The volume of tanks is varied, but most often there are boilers with 50 and 80 liters. The case, depending on the model, can be steel or made of plastic. These materials help to extend the service life of the water heater. The space between the outer casing and the tank is filled with thermal insulation, which allows you to save heat for a long time.

There is often a control panel on the front of the water heater. Less often it happens from the bottom, on the right side. In a tank of any capacity, the ten is capable of heating water to a temperature of 75 degrees.

The thermostat ensures that the water temperature is maintained within a certain range, which makes the boilers very convenient. In cases where the water temperature exceeds 95 degrees, it will be automatically disconnected from the network. The thermal switch is responsible for this.

Modern water heaters are equipped with various additional elements.

For example, some have a silver anode that decontaminates the water.

A safety valve protects the device from a sudden increase in pressure in the tank. This valve has an outlet pipe that must be connected to a sewer drain. This is necessary in order to drain water through it once a month, preventing clogging with lime deposits.

In most models of water heaters, over time, the same elements become faulty. As a result, it is necessary to carry out repair work. At first glance, it is very difficult to repair a water heater with your own hands. However, if you get a little familiar with its structure and the principle of operation, then everything becomes extremely simple and understandable.

When there is a boiler, you need to know at least its key elements and main indicators. Having familiarized yourself with them, the principle of operation becomes clear, as a result, the slightest malfunctions can be quickly eliminated.

The water heater consists of the following main parts:

The outer casing of the water heater is covered with enamel, which is applied using the powder coating method. This allows you to reliably protect the tank from the outside and make it decorative.
The bracket allows you to attach the tank to the wall.
Hot water pipe. Also available in stainless steel with special properties. Possesses high wear resistance and resistance to corrosion.

The “Termex” models refer to storage type water heaters. The main cause of breakdowns is most often poor-quality water in the pipeline.Unfortunately, because of this, the tank will have to be cleaned quite often. For example, if the water consumption is large, then the system is serviced once a year. However, it does not always make sense to call a specialist, repair of Termeks water heaters can be done by hand, having at your disposal a small baggage of knowledge, tools and spare parts.

Before proceeding with the repair of the boiler with our own hands, we will understand the design features. The device of the water heater is quite simple, the main components are as follows:

Diagram of the device of the Termeks water heater

body made of stainless steel sheet;
inner tank made of alloy steel, durable and corrosion resistant;
the steel flange is a platform on which the device elements are attached: heating element, magnesium anode, thermostat;
a large magnesium anode is a metal rod that is coated with a magnesium alloy; thus the element reduces the corrosiveness of the water, protecting the tank and increasing the durability of the water heater;
stainless steel tube for hot water outlet;
thermal insulation made of high density polyurethane foam;
Heating element, which, in fact, heats the water;
a thermostat acting as an automatic water temperature regulator (turns off the boiler when the water is heated, and vice versa);
stainless steel cold water pipe.

The operation of the water tank is based on the convection principle:

Cold water always enters the storage water heater from below, when heated it rises up, where the hot water intake tube is located.

cold water enters the tank through the inlet pipe;
the heating element turns on and heats the water to the set temperature (there is a regulator on the dashboard with which the temperature is set);
thanks to convection, hot water rises independently to the top of the tank;
the hot water outlet pipe is located in the upper part of the device, through which the heated liquid enters the pipeline;
when the temperature of the water in the tank drops, the thermostat turns on the heating element, and when it reaches the maximum, turns it off.

Since a boiler is a device with a simple design and principle of operation, it can have only four faults:

If the water heater is shocked, then you need to check it with a multimeter. To do this, place the contacts as in the figures, and set the multimeter to the sound dial mode, there is sound - the heating element needs to be replaced.

Water leak. The cause of this breakdown can be both the rotten body of the water heater and the failure of the heating element. But more often than not, the tank starts to leak due to loose rubber gaskets (they can stick on or simply deteriorate from time to time).
Breakdown of electricity to the case (the tank is shocked). The most common cause of such a malfunction is a burst heating element. But sometimes the ward or control panel fails.
The water in the boiler heats up slowly or does not heat up at all. If the tank does not heat the water at all, then most likely the reason lies in the thermostat (broken) or heating element (burned out), but the control board may also fail, which happens extremely rarely. If the water heats up slowly, then the heating element is covered with scale and it is time to clean it.
The water in the water heater cools down quickly. If this happens, get ready for the fact that you will have to buy a new tank, as the thermal insulation is outdated. Of course, you can try to change it yourself, but it's rather difficult.

Before proceeding with the repair, first collect the necessary tools: a set of keys, an adjustable wrench, electrical tape, various screwdrivers, pliers. After that, turn off the water by turning off the inlet and outlet taps to the water heater. Then drain the water from the boiler tank, disconnect it from the mains.

The next step is to dismantle the protective cover.If you have a vertically located boiler, then the lid is at the bottom, and in the case of a horizontally located one - on the left or in front.

First, do all of the above, remove the tank cap.

It should be noted that most of the "Termex" models have not one, but two heating elements. So it is imperative to remember how and in what sequence the parts need to be connected... And it is better to photograph the whole process.

To remove the heating elements from the Termeks water heater, remove the top cover by unscrewing the bolt; disconnect all plugs and unscrew the heating elements mounting bolts.

The heating element itself is turned off as follows:

after removing the cover, find the safety thermostat, remove the tips from it;
also remove the tips (3 pieces) from the heating element;
cut the plastic clamp;
unscrew the screws while removing the sensor;
now disconnect the ribbon and unscrew the four screws;
then it is necessary to dismantle the nut on the clamping bar and pull out the heating element.

Do not forget that the heating element does not always need to be changed. If the water in the tank still heats up, but it happens slowly, then, most likely, scale has formed on the heating element. Then dismantle it and descale it. Then install. The problem should go away. Also, do not forget that it is advisable to clean the heating element with chemical means, and not to scrape off the dirt. In the latter case, there is a possibility of damage to the part.

The thermostat in Termeks water heaters is located under the lid, next to one of the heating elements, and its sensor is located inside the tank.

Sometimes the thermostat fails. This element cannot be repaired, it must be replaced.... To replace, you need to make all the preparatory steps, remove the cover, then remove the thermostat. But before dismantling, we recommend that you check this part. To do this, use a lighter to heat the tip of the sensor (copper). If the thermostat is working properly, then you will hear a characteristic click, which means that the protection mechanism has worked and the circuit has opened. Otherwise, you will have to replace the part.

No matter how trite it may sound, but first you need to find where the water comes from. A lot depends on this, since if the tank is rotten, then you will have to buy a new water heater. So:

if water oozes from the side seam, then the container is rusted, and repairs will not work;
if water comes out from under the lid at the bottom, then you need to disassemble the tank.

If there are traces of leakage in the places where the heating elements are attached, then your water heater is not hopeless and it can be saved by replacing the gasket.

In the case of the second option, complete all preparatory steps, then remove the plastic cover. Next, take a close look at where the water seeps out. If it comes out near the flange, then the rubber gasket has deteriorated. (less often it is a problem with heating elements). Otherwise - the tank is rusted, the boiler can be thrown away. To replace the gaskets, you need to remove the heating element. But it is necessary to carefully consider the heating element itself. If it is cracked, then it is also better to replace it.

If you have checked and replaced all the parts, but the boiler still does not work, then it is quite possible that the electronics are out of order. The control board cannot be repaired, and it will be extremely difficult to find a similar one in a store. Therefore, in this case, we recommend contacting specialists.

In most cases, the "Termeks" water heater can be repaired independently, as it has a fairly simple design and principle of operation. The main causes of breakdown are inoperative heating elements or scale... It is necessary to pay attention to this first of all. If the boiler does not heat the water well, do not rush to the store and buy a new heating element. Perhaps the old one is simply covered with dirt and it is just enough to descale it. If the water heater leaks at the joints or the water in it cools down quickly, then you will have to buy a new device.

Boilers Termeks have long established themselves as reliable and unpretentious household appliances. But, like any other technique, they are prone to malfunctions. Some of the breakdowns can be eliminated with your own hands, and in case of other malfunctions, the repair of the Termeks water heater should be done by a master.

Before disassembling the device, you need to have at least a little understanding of its design and principle of operation.

body material is sheet steel with anti-corrosion coating;
alloy steel, durable and resistant to corrosion, used for the manufacture of the inner tank;
the elements of the device (heating element, magnesium anode and thermostat) are installed on a metal flange;
magnesium anode is a rod covered with a covered magnesium alloy - this part protects the tank from corrosion;
a drain pipe through which hot water is discharged (the intake takes place at the top of the tank, where the water temperature is higher);
the space between the outer shell and the tank is filled with polyurethane foam for good thermal insulation - due to this, the liquid in the switched off unit retains the temperature for a long time (like in a thermos);
heating element is used to heat water;
when the water heats up to a certain temperature, the heating turns off thermostatlocated at the bottom of the apparatus, it also turns on heating when the liquid cools down;
a tube is installed at the bottom of the tank through which cold water flows.

The water heater is running by convection principle:

through the supply pipe, water enters the storage tank;
the thermostat turns on the heating element to heat the liquid to the temperature set on the thermostat;
due to the physical law of convection, warm water begins to rise;
in the upper part of the tank there is an entrance to the pipe for the intake of heated water, which is supplied to the consumer;
when the hot water is used up and the temperature in the tank drops, the thermostat will turn on the heating again and the process will be repeated.

The design of the water heater is quite simple and there may be several causes of malfunctions. There are breakdowns in which it is possible to repair Termex water heaters with your own hands:

the device does not heat the liquid;
the unit heats the water slowly;
the boiler often turns off or does not turn on;
water flow from the tank.

When the liquid in the device does not heat up, then a possible cause may be a malfunction of the heating element. Signs of its failure, in addition to the lack of water heating, may be as follows: knocking out the automatics on the dashboard, permanently turning off the RCD (residual current device), receiving an electric shock through the water.

The heating element can come out of the three if:

the unit was turned on without water and the overheating protection did not work;
The heating element was “overgrown” with a thick layer of scale and was out of order due to overheating;
there was a sharp jump in the voltage in the network;
the heater has expired.

To check the heating element for damage, you need use a tester (with a special measuring device). If the device, switched to resistance mode, shows infinity, it means that the heater coil has burned out. If zero is displayed on the device, a short circuit has occurred. In both cases, the heater must be replaced.

Heater Replacement Procedure in a 50 liter Termex boiler is not difficult, but requires patience and attention.

Before draining water from a failed Termeks water heater, the unit should be de-energized. After that, release water from the container of the device, and unscrew all hoses or pipes from the nozzles.
Remove the device from the wall and turn it over.

Carefully, using a screwdriver, pry up the decorative plugs and remove them.

Video (click to play).

It should be noted that a screw is hidden under the sticker, often due to which craftsmen, when trying to disassemble the unit, break the cover.

In order not to confuse the location of all wires in the future during assembly, they must be marked with construction tape (by signing them), or photographed.

Now you need to unscrew the nuts holding the flange. In this model of the unit, there are 4 of them on each heating element.

Remove the retainer washer. If it is stuck, you can use a screwdriver.

Remove the heating element. It also often sticks to the body and requires a slight pry with a screwdriver to detach it.

The second flange contains more wires. They all need to be disconnected.

After disconnecting the wires, unscrew all nuts, remove the washer and remove the heater.

Now you need to completely unscrew the entire electrical part, which is held by 4 screws.

There is also a screw hidden under the board, which must be unscrewed.

After that, the decorative cover can be easily removed.

The method of replacing heaters in the 80 liter Termex boiler is not much different from the above.

This is a fairly common malfunction that appears during prolonged operation of the device without preventive cleaning. If you hear noises coming from the tank when the boiler is on, and the water heats up for a long time, this means that the heating elements are “overgrown” with scale. Its thick layer interferes with the full transfer of heat from the heater to the surrounding liquid. This can cause the cell to overheat and burn out. With such a problem, it will be easy to make repairs with your own hands.

How to disassemble a water heater to replace heating elements has been mentioned above. In a situation when the heating elements are in good order, but they have a large layer of scale, then it must be removed from the heaters. Mechanical cleaning (with a file, sharp objects and sandpaper) is not recommended due to possible damage to the heating element housing.

For safe descaling, you can use chemicals specially designed for this. You can buy them at a household chemicals store or service center.

For descaling, prepare a container, the depth of which will be slightly deeper than the heater itself, for example, a bucket.

It is necessary to dilute the descaler (which is acid) in a bucket, observing the percentage of concentration, which is indicated in the instructions. If the concentration is less, then the cleansing will be ineffective.
Dip the heating element in the acid solution and time it. Dissolution may take from several minutes to 2 or more hours. The cleaning time depends on the thickness of the formed layer and the properties of the solution.

It is important to follow the instructions for the descaler and not to overexpose the heaters in acid. After cleaning the heating elements, it is enough to rinse it with running water.

The reason that the Termeks water heater turns off without reaching the desired temperature, or does not turn on at all, may be faulty thermostat... It is checked with a resistance tester. If it is missing, the part should be replaced. To do this, just remove the bottom cover of the device, disconnect the wires and replace the thermostat.

If a leak is detected from the container, the problem is solved by replacing it. Here you should calculate how much it will cost you to replace or repair the tank, and what is the price of a new unit. It is recommended not to spend money on repairs, but to purchase a new boiler.

If you nevertheless decide on an independent repair of the Termeks boiler tank, then the following difficulties should be taken into account:

when dismantling the tank from the outer casing, you will certainly damage the shell;
if the device has a plastic reservoir, it cannot be restored.
if the material of the container is copper or stainless steel, then you can try to solder it, but it will be problematic to do it efficiently without a special tool at home.

Some models of water heaters have glass enamel coated containers. When you try to repair such a tank by brazing, you will inevitably damage this layer, after which it will be impossible to repair it.

In a situation where water seeps out from under the flange, the problem may lie in rubber gasketthat has worn out. To replace it, you need to de-energize the unit, drain the water, disassemble the device according to the above instructions and replace the gasket.

Some types of malfunctions of the Termex boiler can only be eliminated by a master, and it is highly discouraged to make repairs on your own in such cases. Problems that can only be solved by a specialist:

incorrect operation and emergency shutdowns of new equipment for which the warranty service has not expired;
the settings on the electronic thermostat are reset;
RCD often turns off the unit;
a tank leak, although the effectiveness of such a repair is questionable - it will be cheaper to purchase a new device.

But before calling the service, make sure that in the line through which cold water is supplied, there is a pressure... There are models of units that turn off the boiler in the absence of pressure in the supply line.