Water heater Junkers DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Junkers water heater repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

So it's time to write an article not about computers and 1Ski, but about the repair of the Bosch / Junkers WR13 gas water heater.
Who would have thought that an IT specialist would climb there. It is somehow established that such things are in the department of gas companies and it is better not to disassemble them without special knowledge. In fact, there is nothing wrong with it, and with more or less straight hands, it is possible to do it yourself. Moreover, there is a crisis in the country and I want to save money.
It all started with the fact that the column stopped extinguishing when the hot water was turned off; we had to run around and turn off the gas manually.
Googling suggested that two main units are responsible for this: hydraulic fittings (water unit) and gas fittings. They are connected together in such a way that when water is supplied, the water unit, using a membrane pressing on the pin, presses on the gas valve, thereby opening the gas supply. When the water is turned off, the gas valve closes. In general, the problem is somewhere here! (number 14 in the picture)

So let's get started ...
Here he is our patient:

All we need is 2 screwdrivers (Phillips and flat) and a wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the water pipe.
For safety, we will shut off the water and gas supply to the apartment.
Remove the protective cover by unscrewing the two screws from the bottom:

We get access to the insides:

We take out the bracket that fixes the water supply pipe to the heat exchanger:

We take out the branch pipe itself:

We unscrew the two screws securing the water unit to the gas valve:

And then I saw a picture with oxides at the attachment point. The mechanism was carried away, and water seeped out there. The metal oxidized and the gas valve began to jam (it stopped returning to its original position). This is the reason for the non-shutdown of the gas supply!
Let's try to clean everything as much as possible and develop the valve itself:

It should press inward and return to its original position.
Now let's analyze the water block itself:

We take out the bracket and take out the flow regulator (sleeve with spring):

We unscrew the bolts and remove the cover of the water unit:

Under it we see a worn out membrane:

And the lid itself fell apart from time to time (the column is currently 7 years old):

As it turned out, spare parts for gas water heaters are not so easy to find. And the prices for them, frankly speaking, are equine. At the price of a new speaker Bosch Junkers GWH 13 P (WR13-2 P2) - 10,000 rubles. I found the cheapest membrane in the city (code 8700503083) for 1400 rubles. and a cover of water fittings WR10, 11, 13, 15 (code 8705500105) for 2400 rubles. Total RUB 3600 More expensive than a third of a column. So before proceeding with the repair, think about whether it is necessary

But it was too late ... the column was disassembled and I did not want to install a new one, so I decided to continue what I had started! (although I almost freaked out and went for a new Chinese one for the same money)
The picture shows old and new parts. The difference is immediately visible:

Now we install a new membrane and a cover of the water fittings, collecting everything in the reverse order:

Hooray. I did it. Now the flame lights up and goes out as it should!
What do you want to say in the end ?! When I was puzzled by the choice of a column 7 years ago, I was praised by Junkers as the most reliable and maintainable. I find it difficult to say whether 7 years is a lot or not enough for reliability, although the old Soviet ones still work for people and they have at least something! But with such prices of spare parts, this maintainability is not needed. Now I would choose the cheapest Neva or the Chinese Oasis for 4-5 thousand rubles and in case of a breakdown I would just throw it out without sweating and put a new one at the price of repairing this Junkers / Bosch. One hope is that this prophylaxis will allow the column to work at least as much ...
And finally, for those who do not understand in the pictures, I will give a link to a video on disassembling Bosch / Junkers gas burners from Teplotekhnika SPb:

Video (click to play).

Junkers speakers
Installation of a Junkers instantaneous boiler
How to light a Junkers gas water heater
How to clean a column with your own hands
Malfunctions and methods of their elimination

The Junkers company existed until 1932. From that moment on, the company was bought out by the Bosch Gruppe, which, however, did not affect the name of the water heaters produced by the division of the main office.

Junkers flow-through gas columns are produced in several modifications, differing in the principle of ignition, as well as in the type of combustion chamber. Instantaneous boilers operating with an ignition burner are popular among the domestic consumer. The average service life of a Junkers column is over 15 years.

Only high-quality materials are used in the internal structure of Junkers gas flow columns. All water heaters are subject to mandatory testing and certification.

More information about the technical characteristics of Junkers dispensers can be found in the following table:

Junkers gas water heater in the kitchen

Gas water heaters are designed to heat water in an apartment and house in which there is no hot water supply. Recently, they have become popular heating devices among the population, both in private houses and in residential apartments. They are often bought by families with children, since nowadays there are more and more interruptions in the supply of hot water.

The most popular models of gas water heaters are easy to use, they are safe and quickly allow you to adjust the degree of water heating in the house. In this article, we will analyze how the Junkers gas water heater works and how it is repaired..

Almost all Junkers wr 10 gas water heaters and Junkers wr 275 gas water heaters are adapted for countries such as Russia. These heating devices have their own advantages, such as:

They are adapted to a gas pressure of 13 Mbar for Russia. Compared to Europe, the pressure in the gas pipeline there reaches 20 Mbar. If your Junkers column is not adapted to the gas pressure, then it may be less efficient. And this moment is important.
In multi-storey houses, the Junkers gas water heater can stably operate at a pressure of 0.1 ATM. And this is a very good indicator.
The Junkers gas water heater device is made so that such heating devices can heat from 11-20 liters of water per minute. It should also be noted that in these columns, water can itself be mixed in the mixer.
The Junkers geyser has flame modulation, which allows it to automatically change power depending on the supplied water.
It has a high-quality German assembly and a 2-year warranty for the device, as well as a long service life, if, of course, you adhere to all safety and use rules.
Low price for Junkers gas water heaters, in contrast to its counterparts.

All geysers of the German manufacturer Junkers are divided into three types according to the ignition method. Such speakers with the types listed below can be easily ordered from an authorized dealer, as well as in a specialized store. They are affordable for the price, and you will always find spare parts for them in stock. The German manufacturer has tried and invented this column for people on a low budget.

Series B includes columns that do not have a burning igniter. In such columns, ignition occurs with the help of batteries. The Junkers column in this case turns on automatically and has several security systems such as:

Controls cravings.
The presence of a fuse in the device.
Ionization flame control.
The presence of a malfunction indicator in the device.

But the flow of water in this type of column is regulated depending on the pressure that you have in the tap (water supply). Almost all Junkers Bosch gas water heaters are made of high quality copper. Service life is not less than 10-15 years. Also, you will meet only positive reviews about the Junkers gas water heater.

Junkers gas column diagram

The P series includes piezo ignition columns. In this case, the igniter is on continuously when the column is on.In this series, the water flow is regulated separately. But flame control is only thermoelectric. The instruction for a Junkers gas water heater of this type is complex, and requires additional study.

Series G - ignition works with technology such as "Hydro Power". In these columns, the minimum water pressure reaches 0.35 ATM. It does not have a burning igniter.

Such a column from the generator provides ignition. The column can simultaneously provide up to three taps. These models are available in two sizes (types) standard and mini.

Equipped with the same equipment. The price only varies from the column size. That and spare parts for speakers can also be found in any specialty store.

Gas water heater with corrugated chimney

You bought a gas water heater, it has served you quite a bit and suddenly it stops working. In this article we will talk about the malfunction of Junkers gas water heaters. Yes, surprisingly, and they also break.

The Junkers gas water heater does not light up.

First you need to make sure that the igniter is on in the column. If for any reason the igniter does not burn, then you need to call the gas service. Or you can clean the igniter yourself. In this case, the jet is cleaned in the pilot. It may also be that the gas supply is not supplied, but this should be visible on the indicator of the column.

Another reason that the gas column does not light up may be that you do not have a draft in the ventilation shaft. It is very easy to check if there is a draft in the ventilation shaft.

Junkers gas water heater panel

A sheet of paper is leaning against the outlet of the ventilation well, or you can bring a burning match. If you find that there is no draft in the well, then you can clean it yourself. Suddenly you do not want to clean the ventilation well itself, it is better to call the gas workers.

Another reason that the Junkers gas column does not ignite may be that the water membrane, which is inside the equipment, has failed. If your column is old, has been in use for a long time, then over time the membrane will deform from stress. It can tear and fray. It should be noted that the membrane is not repaired; it needs to be replaced.

We also recommend, when disassembling the heating device, to pay attention to the filter, which is located in the water intake of the heating device. The water filter can be replaced with your own hands, without requiring a call from the gas service technician.

The next breakdown is when the Junkers gas column goes out.

If you turn on the gas water heater, and when it is working, it goes out abruptly, then the matter is in the temperature sensor, which is responsible for the overheating of the column. A sign of an inoperative temperature sensor is that the burner is on, burns and goes out sharply after some time.

You try to kindle it, but it does not give results. After about a few minutes, the gas heater can be switched on again. The column works and then goes out again.

This happens behind the sensitivity of the sensor. There may also be a shutdown of the column due to wear of the insulation of the sensor conductor. In this case, the wire is bare and it touches the case, which is why a short circuit to the case occurs. In this case, the safety valve is triggered.

Junkers gas water heater body

The column emits claps during operation.

There can be many reasons. Here are some of them:

The initial gas pressure is too strong. The Junkers column ignites and burns very actively, because of this there is a pop (flame blowout).
The gas pressure is weak, as a result of which air enters the inside of the device and a pop occurs.

In these aforementioned cases, the Junkers gas water heater requires cleaning and adjustment by an experienced technician. Also, when cleaning and troubleshooting, you will need spare parts for the Junkers gas water heater, which can be immediately purchased from a master who will deal with the breakdown.If you have a question how to clean a Junkers gas water heater, then you can read this in the instructions, and also contact the gas service.

If, during operation, the column produces a low water temperature, then this is most likely due to the low power of the device. She simply cannot cope with water heating. If you still have a low-power column, then we advise you not to immediately and at the same time not open hot water taps in the toilet and in the kitchen. This will allow you to quickly heat water with a low-power device.

Naturally, the wick can go out in the Junkers gas column. Most likely your column is clogged. Further evidence of clogging may be that the flame is yellow. We recommend calling the gas service immediately.

Geyser Junkers - bottom view

Another breakdown of the gas column Junkers it may be that there is a smell of gas during operation.

This is the most dangerous breakdown that threatens with serious consequences. In this case, you need to turn off the column, ventilate the room and call the gas workers. At the end of this article I would like to tell you that we do not recommend repairing, cleaning, or connecting the device ourselves. Such work consists in caution and can only be performed by knowledgeable specialists in their field.
to the menu ↑

Evgeny, 27 years old, Astrakhan

We bought the column two years ago. during the work it copes with its task. The Junkers column has a small capacity, but it is quite enough for us for uninterrupted supply of hot water. The family has a child. And when there is hot water in the tap, it is very convenient. For all the time there was not one breakdown. She suited me completely. Also, the price pleases for spare parts. Our family was satisfied with the purchased product.

Vera Grigorievna, 48 years old, Tula

We live in a private house away from the city. In these places, hot water is constantly interrupted. We bought a Junkers gas water heater. For all the time, not a single breakdown. Constantly hot water in the tap. Naturally, not boiling water, but you can naturally wash the dishes and swim. I didn't think that such a low-power speaker could cope with its task.

An electric boiler is an effective solution to the problem of hot water supply for a private house. Such equipment, however, like any other, periodically breaks down.If serious breakdowns have to be eliminated in a service center, then any more or less experienced craftsman can perform a small repair of the water heater with his own hands.To minimize problems with the device, you should study its design and principles of operation. Usually, in private households, not flow-through, but storage models are used, which make it possible to use electricity more efficiently. Such a device consists of a heat exchanger tank, inside which a heating element is installed - a heating element, connected to the power supply.An important part of the device is the thermostat. This element allows you to maintain a constant water temperature inside the storage tank. The water is piped to the heat exchanger. If its temperature is too low (and this is usually the case), then the thermostat gives a signal and turns on the heating element.The water is heated until it reaches the required temperature. After that, the thermostat works again and turns off the heating element. Hot water is taken from the tank and replaced with cold water, the heating process is repeated over and over. This is a general diagram of the device and operation of a conventional storage water heater.Flow models are arranged somewhat differently. They do not heat a static volume of water, but a stream. They use more powerful heating elements that start working when the water is turned on and stop when it is turned off. To study in more detail the operation and structure of a particular model, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the accompanying technical documentation.The heater tank is a sturdy stainless steel container, one or two millimeters thick. No matter how resistant this material is to corrosion, nevertheless, these processes periodically arise and develop, which leads to the flow of water from the device. One of the most common causes of such breakdowns is electrical corrosion.To prevent it, you need to regularly, i.e. Replace the internally mounted magnesium anode annually. This element is designed specifically to prevent electrical corrosion. Over time, it wears out, and the owners of storage tanks lose sight of replacing this important part.As a result, the tank, which has served well for some time, suddenly starts to leak. The incorrect state of the magnesium anode can also affect the state of the heating element. The outside of the storage tank is usually enclosed in a metal or plastic housing, and it also has a heat-insulating shell that prevents heat loss.Damage to the outer shell and insulation is rare, usually due to careless handling of the device. Cracks and chips on the body of the water heater may not disrupt its operation, but this will lead to a deterioration in the properties of the heat insulator, and will negatively affect the functioning of the device as a whole.Cold water inlet and outlet pipes - for hot water usually do not cause any problems if the installation of the heater is done correctly. Usually, a water heater is equipped with two thermostats, one of which is designed to control the water temperature, and the second monitors the state of the first device.Sometimes a third thermostat is also used, which determines the good condition of the heating element. In any case, the broken thermostat will have to be completely replaced. There are capillary, rod and electronic types of thermostats. Their design is different, but the principle of their work is the same.The insulating gasket not only serves to seal the connection between the elements of the water heater, it is also necessary as an electrical insulator. It is recommended to replace this element regularly at every maintenance of the water heater.The thermostat shows exactly what temperature the water inside the device is heated to. If this element breaks down, the water heater will still perform its functions, although data on the degree of heating will not be received.Breakdown of heating elements is a typical problem for both flowing and storage water heaters. This element works under high stress and therefore wears out quickly. If the power supply is connected, but the water in the tank does not heat up, most likely the problem has arisen with the heating element.First, you should check if electricity is supplied to the heating element and the thermostat. In the places where the cable is connected, the presence of voltage is checked with a tester. If there is no voltage, you may need to replace the cable itself or check for a power outage throughout the house.If there is electricity and the cable is working properly, then problems have arisen with the heating element, which will have to be replaced, or with the thermostat. To figure out what exactly broke, you need to remove the thermostat and check it with a tester. Testing the health of the heating element is carried out as follows. First, the measuring scale of the device is set to the interval of 220-250 V. Then the resistance is measured at the terminals connecting the heating element to the mains.If there is voltage, disconnect the heating element from the network and check the potential at the terminals of the heating element. Lack of response from the tester will indicate that the device is defective. If there is a reaction, you need to continue the diagnosis. First, disconnect the water heater from the power supply. Then the heating element is disconnected from the thermostat so that the contacts of the heating element remain not isolated.Tester contacts are applied to them and the reaction is monitored. If it is, the heating element is working, if not, it needs to be replaced.In this case, it does not matter what kind of numbers the tester produces, only the presence or absence of a reaction is important. These troubleshooting methods are suitable for both storage electric water heaters and flow-through models.

Read also: Ural DIY repair

To check the serviceability of the thermostat removed from the water heater, you need to set the adjustment knob to maximum and measure at the inlet and outlet of the device. If the needle of the tester remains calm, i.e. its position does not change, which means that the thermostat is faulty and needs to be replaced.If the arrow deviates, then you need to continue testing. Now you should set the minimum position on the thermostat and attach the test leads of the tester to the contacts. It will not be easy to continue the diagnosis alone, the probes will have to be fixed or asked someone to hold them in the correct position for a while.After that, you need to take a lighter and heat the tip of the temperature sensor. If the thermal relay is triggered, the circuit will open, and the resistance on the tester's scale will sharply go down, then the thermal relay can also be considered serviceable. If the system does not respond to heating, then this element is damaged and needs to be completely replaced.Occasionally, the water heater can stop working due to a blown thermal fuse as a result of dangerous overheating of the device. It is enough to correctly adjust the operation of the device for it to start working as usual.If the check showed that both the heating element and the thermostat are in good order, most likely problems have arisen with the control board. It is almost impossible to repair such an element at home. It will have to be replaced with a new one, and you will have to use the help of a specialist who will help you set up the electronic equipment. Most often, you just need to contact the service center, where the required element will be selected and installed correctly.A tank leak is a serious problem that cannot always be corrected on your own. In some models, either the tank or the entire heater will need to be replaced. Sometimes the leak can be sealed, but care must be taken to restore the integrity of the outer casing and the thermal insulation layer. Usually such measures are insufficient and short-lived, and soon the leak will reoccur.The water heater tank most often leaks if:

damage to the internal tank has occurred;

the heating element has deteriorated;

leaky gasket.

If water flows at the place where the heating element is attached, it may not be necessary to repair the tank itself. A special gasket is installed in this place, the leak can be caused by its damage. The gasket is replaced and thus the problem is solved.A water heater tank leak usually occurs due to neglect or untimely maintenance, which also includes the replacement of the magnesium anode. Another common problem is lack of grounding. This can also lead to the development of corrosive processes and the occurrence of leaks.If you need to replace the gasket or heating element, it is best to first dismantle the faulty element in order to take it with you and find an exact analogue. Obtaining parts by eye can result in unnecessary costs. This replacement is relatively straightforward. But if problems arise with the tank, you will at least have to contact the service center. Immediately it is necessary to find documents for the water heater and clarify the warranty periods and service conditions.Regardless of the nature of the breakdown, before starting repair work, you first need to turn off the power supply, remove the protective cover, disconnect the wires, pipes and drain the water. Wall-mounted models are usually removed from the brackets. The protective cover that hides the place for connecting the electrical wires and the fastening of the heating elements may have a different position depending on the model.On horizontal devices, such an element is usually located on the left, on vertical heaters - at the bottom, and on small models - in front. On some devices, you first need to unscrew the main mounting bolt located in the center. Sometimes this element is hidden under a decorative sticker.After that, you need to carefully remove the thermostat, and then remove the tubes of the temperature sensor. They must be handled with great care. If the integrity of the thermosensor tube is broken, liquid filler will leak out. As a result, the water heater will simply have to be thrown away and a new device bought.If there are stickers on the body with the serial number indicated, they must be kept, even if it interferes with the maintenance and repair of the product. This can affect the manufacturer's fulfillment of the warranty obligations, as well as facilitate the work of the service center employees.The fact that there are problems in the operation of the device may indicate some changes in the mode of its operation. For instance:

increasing the time for heating water to a predetermined temperature;

the appearance of unusual sounds accompanying the operation of the device;

the appearance of impurities in tap water, changes in its color, smell or taste.

If at least one of these signs is observed, the water heater should be cleaned immediately. To do this, you will have to perform the following operations:

Disconnect the device from the power supply.

Remove the protective cover.

Disconnect the contacts of the electric wires.

Shut off cold water supply.

Remove residual water from the tank using a hose.

Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.

Remove the heating element and descale it.

Clean the inside of the drive from dirt and scale particles.

Rinse the device thoroughly.

Check the health of the magnesium anode.

If necessary, replace this element immediately.

Wait until the cleaned tank is completely dry.

Install the heating element in place.

Reassemble the device.

Check the tightness of all fasteners.

Connect the water heater to the power supply.

Check for grounding.

The heating element should be removed from the tank carefully, the bolts may be too stubborn, sometimes the heating element is difficult to remove due to too much scale layer. The heating element is cleaned by mechanical or chemical means, as is the removal of contaminants from the tank. If a large amount of scale is found inside the device, you should consider revising the operating mode of the water heater.This phenomenon is often observed when the device has been operating at maximum power for a long time. It is recommended to set the maximum heating temperature not higher than 60 degrees in order to increase the life of the device and reduce the number of breakdowns. If the body of the heating device shocks, it is possible that the heating element is deformed and ruptured, or there is a breakdown in the control system.A detailed video on diagnostics of the condition, maintenance and self-repair of domestic water heaters can be viewed here:

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers.The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but it has the same operating principle.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all craftsmen know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high.The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.