Volvo 940 DIY repair

Details: Volvo 940 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The first steps in car repair. A large rear-wheel drive car is in demand in the old car market. A reliable body and a high-quality mechanical part are the main advantages of the Volvo 940.

The rather large mass of the car contributes to the wear of the suspension assemblies. Ball joints also suffer. Replacement of ball joints on a Volvo 940 is in this video.

The upper ball joints are changed in this way:

The car must be put on the "handbrake", later it is jacked up in the front part. With all this, an additional emphasis is placed under the machine.

Unscrew the support fastening nut flush with the thread on its own finger. Be careful not to rip off the threads.

Later, you can hit with a hammer or use a puller.

The detached steering knuckle can be tied to a spring.

Remove the lever and lower it as low as possible.

Unscrew the nuts for now. Removing them, you can remove the cover from the ball body.

Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring (located near the base).

You can start pressing out the ball joint.

To make the new part easier to go, you can chamfer it on it. Lubricate the ball seat with graphite grease. If you have a good press, you can do without chamfering.

Install the retaining ring on the support. Lubricate the ball itself, also gently lubricate the cover.

Put the tension spring of the cover on the support, later put on the cover itself, later pull the spring onto it. This can be done with a piece of wire.

Installation is done upside-down. The whole process is described in the video on how to change the ball joints on a Volvo 940. Replacing the lower bearings is done in the same way. Be careful and careful when working. Taking this opportunity, inspect all the covers, if they become very hard or cracks appear on them, then they will also need to be changed. There is no need to pull with the replacement, because dirt trapped under the boot can lead to problems when driving.

Video (click to play).

Fortune on the road and all the best.

Alexander 1979 06-03-07, 09:31 Sun Feb 17, 2013

Interventionist Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:03 pm

nikolajs Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:18 pm

Alexander 1979 Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:58 pm

nikolajs 23-03-08, 03:29 Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:29 pm

Alexander 1979 23-03-08, 09:37 Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:37 pm

Interventionist Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:01 am

kalina Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:20 am

MVV Apr 04, 2014 11:36 am

ClassN1 Sat Apr 19, 2014 9:38 pm

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One of the specializations of our stations is high-quality repair of Volvo 940. In our car services there is a specialized tool for repairing Volvo 940. We have consumables, oils and fluids necessary for routine maintenance. Within a couple of hours, from the main warehouse, we will bring any spare parts for repairing a Volvo 940.

Before starting the repair of the Volvo 940, we will make free diagnostics suspension, engine or electrics (free diagnostics in case of repair at our service stations). We do not recommend doing DIY repairs on your Volvo 940. Everyone must do their job. You need to entrust the repair of your car to those who do it every day.

The cost of repairing a Volvo 940:

It is recommended to carry out routine work and maintenance of the Volvo 940 every 7-10 thousand km. mileage. This necessarily includes changing the engine oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter. When carrying out scheduled work, we will make free diagnostics of all vehicle components and draw up a list of recommendations.

Every 60 thousand km. mileage, we recommend changing the timing belt with rollers, and if the motor is chain, then it is better to replace the chain every 120 thousand km. It is better to replace the candles every 40 thousand kilometers on gasoline engines and 100 thousand kilometers. mileage on a diesel engine. On Volvo 940 models with adaptive throttle, it is recommended to clean and adapt the throttle every 60,000 km.

The most famous problems and malfunctions of the Volvo 940:
- acidification of the caliper pistons with subsequent uneven wear of pads and discs;
- unsuccessful design of the fuel filter - the car jerks, stalls, troit;
- creak in the car interior due to low-quality plastic - gluing with anti-creak material;
- a problem with the box - early failure of bearings and primary shaft oil seals;
- in standard cooling radiators, leak at the junction with the side part;
- tight steering wheel - a problem with the power steering of the car - a bulkhead or replacement, according to the result of diagnostics.

The degree of wear of the Volvo 940 hub bearing can only be determined through diagnostics.

Warranty for all repair work Volvo 940 - 6 months.

The "fuel" part of the system under consideration operates on the principle of intermittent multipoint injection. One injector is installed on each cylinder. All injectors are controlled by an ECU installed in the passenger compartment on the left front part of the body side. The idle speed is controlled by the regulator, and there is also a starting nozzle at the rear of the intake manifold. The injector is designed to start the engine at temperatures below -20 degrees. By the way, if your car has problems with the turbine, it will help you to fix them.

The fuel system consists of the following main components: a) a throttle position sensor installed on its axis next to the air intake; b) a united relay, turning on the ECU and the fuel pump; c) an air flow meter installed between the air filter and the intake manifold (not adjustable on vehicles with a neutralizer); d) idle speed regulator, which is installed "parallel" to the throttle valve; e) the coolant temperature sensor, which is located in the upper left part of the cylinder head under the intake manifold.

The signal for triggering the injectors comes from the controller. The signal should be stable. The crankshaft position sensor, which detects the passage of the gearwheel rim teeth, sends a signal to the controller (located on the right, behind the instrument panel shelf). The controller, in turn, gives a trigger signal to pin 1 of the ECU, which uses this signal to synchronize the injection of the injectors.

Due to the fact that there are two separate trigger signals - one from terminal 16 of the controller and the other from terminal 17 of the ECU - problems can arise if one or the other of the control unit fails. It is possible that the ignition is working normally, and there is no signal to the ECU. This may mean that there is a problem in the controller. So even if the ignition coil is working properly, it does not mean that the controller is in order. He must send a signal to the ECU, and the correct one.

Another difficulty lies in the fact that two different controllers can be used, and if you put the wrong one, then the car will not go. This appears to be due to the different pin layouts.

The ignition system on the VOLVO-940 is a conventional battery. The ignition distributor is located at the back of the engine and is very dirty, therefore it is covered with a plastic cover. However, this does not save it from dirt and moisture, so that from a wet and not cleaned ignition distributor for a long time, high voltage can "break through" to the ECU, which threatens trouble.

There is an indicator under the hood, the LEDs of which provide diagnostic signals. This device allows reading data during engine operation: in particular, injection duration, air consumption, oxygen sensor readings, etc.

The creation of this site was facilitated by the lack of specialized service centers in the vicinity and the scarcity of useful information on these cars, there is very little of it on the Internet and the one that is is too fragmented.

The purpose of this site is to collect as much information as possible regarding these models in one place. The material posted on the site is partly borrowed from other sites (including English and German-speaking), partly from personal experience, partly from the experience of other owners, as well as received via e-mail from visitors to our site.

I myself am the owner of a Volvo 944 230FB 92g.v. and repeatedly faced the problem of lack of information of interest to me, I had to plunge into the World Wide Web and collect it bit by bit.

I will be glad to receive from you useful information on repairs regarding these cars and post it on this site.

Leave your feedback about the site in the guestbook.

Repair manual Volvo 940

Manual for the device, operation, maintenance and repair of cars Volvo 940, Volvo 960 1990-1997. release, equipped with gasoline engines with a working volume of 2.0, 2.3, 2.5, 2.9 liters.

This manual covers methods of repairing VOLVO 940, 960 cars, as well as malfunctions and their elimination, maintenance.
The manual describes the design of the car, sets out in sequence and in detail various assembly and disassembly operations, repair and adjustment work on the car. Methods of work in a specialized workshop with the use of special devices are described. Also given are specific recommendations for car care in a home workshop.

The manual is intended for owners of Volvo 940, Volvo 960 cars, service stations, service station personnel, mechanics and repair shops.

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VOLVO 940, 960 (PETROL ENGINES 1.9; 2.3; 2.4; 2.9 L): A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO REPAIR AND OPERATION

VOLVO 940, 960 (PETROL ENGINES 1.9; 2.3; 2.4; 2.9 L): A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO REPAIR AND OPERATION2

You can add information about a company that provides repair services / sells auto parts for Volvo 740 by filling out this form (form)

Experienced tips (in development - not all sections work)

Front and rear suspension

Service and parking brake systems

Body and its paintwork

In addition, additional sections:

Coordinates of shops, services, showdowns *

Inform me about non-working phones by e-mail, you need to filter the list !!

The phones may have become outdated or changed. This information is no longer fresh. I ask everyone who will use this list to send me information about which phones should be removed.

Also, send me new phones! This will do a good deed both for your service and for other Volvo owners.

The main difference between our store and all other autobook stores is that we really have in stock the automotive literature that is presented on the site

A unique series of car books - Repair without problems. Step-by-step car repair, more than 3000 color photos

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One of the reasons for the wet floor in VOLVO 940, 960, S90, 740, 760 under the driver's feet

Repair of the external handle VOLVO 740. Full version. Aluminum casting

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Volvo 740 Part 2 New rail and new problem.

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Swedish TANK - Volvo 740 🙂 part 1

Self-diagnosis of Volvo 940.

Ventilation of crankcase gases by the hands of a beginner.

How to pull the handbrake on a Volvo 940.

One of the reasons for the wet floor in VOLVO 940, 960, S90, 740, 760 under the driver's feet

THEY SAY VOLVO IS VERY EXPENSIVE TO MAINTENANCE. SPEAK, SLOW AND NON-TURNING. LET THEM TALK. WE ALL LOVE THIS SOLID, REPRESENTATIVE AND CONVENIENT VOLVO 940 EQUIPMENT.

It was produced from 1990 to 1997. It was finally discontinued at the end of 1998. The most common engines are the B230F series with a displacement of 2.3 liters. Versions with indexes FD, FX, FB, FK differ in injection systems and power. The turbocharged variants are indexed FT, GT or GK and differ in the type of turbine, low or high pressure, and power. "Nine-forty" was also equipped with 2-liter turbocharged engines of the B200 series and 16-valve B204 and B234. However, the most common version of the station wagon in Russia in the early 90s, as a rule, is equipped with an atmospheric B230F or its modifications and a manual transmission. Let's stop at it.

Let's proceed from the fact that the average annual mileage of a car “they drive” is at least 25-30 thousand km. Simple arithmetic calculations suggest that for a seven-year-old car, for example, it will be approximately 175-210 thousand km. For many other brands and models, this is already a critical limit. However, practice shows that for "nine-forty" the total resource is estimated at about 400 thousand km. That is, buying a car even with “two circles” on the speedometer, you can safely count on the fact that it will give you at least one and a half more “laps”. And in order to save yourself from immediate and considerable investments in a new acquisition, it is useful to pay attention to some of the main positions.

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FRONT ENTRANCE. Checking the condition of the body is traditional. You just need to remember that a galvanized body restored "in garages" will not last long. Traces of not the highest quality restoration, straightening and welding will be found immediately, and the surfaces generously filled with anticorrosive material in the engine compartment, in particular the side members, will almost completely report serious repairs. The side members have special zones of destruction, therefore, after a strong blow to the front, they can only be replaced. Additionally, it is worth looking at the location of the upper attachment points of the front shock absorbers. If they stand asymmetrically relative to each other, then this will most likely mean that the front end was really thoroughly repaired and could not accurately restore the geometry, therefore, the mountings of the struts were rearranged. In short, if there is a suspicion of a serious accident, it is better to look for another option.
CENTRAL EXPOSITION. They turned the ignition key and saw that all the control lamps were on. If some one does not burn or, conversely, does not go out, it is a subject for investigation. We started the engine, opened the hood and listened and watched. It works unstable, extraneous sounds are heard, dips are felt when you press the gas or a black plume of smoke flies out of the exhaust pipe - not uncommon. The worst thing is that worn injector nozzles are missed or "overflowed" ($ 140 per piece + $ 29 for replacement).Or the air mass meter is to blame, it is the air flow sensor, which either depletes the mixture, then the car simply “does not pull” and twitches, or over-enriches - a sharply increased appetite and black smoke. It costs $ 250 for a new mass meter. A used one will cost two times cheaper, but it is rather difficult to find it, since it must correspond to the control unit on a specific motor.
With the engine running, it makes sense to check the condition of the connection between the exhaust manifold flange and the intake pipe. If it “cuts” there, then the assurances “it is corrected by replacing the gasket” is not worth believing. On motors of the B230F series, it often happens that the plane of the front pipe flange is bent due to temperature. Fixing the problem can be expensive, either sanding and removing or replacing the exhaust tube. You can offer the seller to throw off $ 50-60.

PRIVATE COLLECTION. Having muffled the engine, it makes sense to return to the first hall, that is, under the hood. There is still something interesting. First, the condition of the liquid in the expansion tank. Cloudy means that the cooling system is either dirty and overheated, or sealants are floating in it. Let's pay attention to the O-ring between the pump body and the block head - drips or dry traces of them mean that it is leaking and will have to be changed. The part is cheap, $ 2-3, but the work on the service is tricky, it will cost $ 40. It makes sense to check if it is leaking from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pump housing, for which you need to contrive and, removing the cap from the bottom of the pump, everything there should be palpated properly. A leak means that coolant is entering the bearing and pump replacement is just around the corner - at least $ 50.
Now let's stick our hand into the place where the ignition distributor is installed. The presence of oil traces suggests options. The most painless is replacing the outer o-rings ($ 17). But if oil is found inside the distributor, it is simply deadly, because the oil seal cannot be replaced, and a new distributor assembly is $ 450. It is possible to reduce the cost only through "disassembly" - about $ 100-120. It is not superfluous to check the belt for traces of oil. Its sudden break on a 2.3-liter engine is fraught with only a loss of time for replacement, but penny like camshaft and crankshaft oil seals will pull a loss of about $ 100 each, if changed in the corporate center.

And before closing the hood, let's pay attention to the silent block of the upper shock absorber support. This is a pain point. Cracks and peeling of rubber from the metal holder are unacceptable. Otherwise, on the first good pothole, the shock absorber rod will stick out in the hood. It will be cheaper to replace the entire support, even with a branded service - $ 140

EXCURSION RESULTS. That is, in essence, all the basic and “money-intensive” positions in the “nine-forties” of the early 90s. The rest - suspension, brakes, transmission - as usual, are checked in the same way as on all others. And, in general, repairs and parts are not more expensive. The choice of spare parts is very large, and the price difference can be up to 100 percent. The main thing is not to be lazy and look for the most acceptable option. And don't flap your ears when buying a used car.

TEXT ANDREY TIMOFEEV, PHOTO ALEXEY ILYIN, DRAWING VLADIMIR BELOV

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

So we got around to creating a small repair report. I want to point out my mistakes right away:

It was necessary to squeeze the brake pistons out of the calipers before the brake pipes and hoses were depressurized.

It was necessary to clean, weld, paint, process problem areas in the arches before installing the racks back.

When heating the connection of the brake hose to the brake pipe, you must drain all the fluid.

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All the work was carried out on the street near the garage, it took about 2 months. He worked leisurely, mostly on weekends, sometimes in the evening after work in one person. The right counter is the first in line, for some reason there was more noise from this side, and I started with it. To check the support bearing, I had to

400 p. buy spring couplers.

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Posted by Penitto on February 25, 2017 Leave a Comment

Now it's time to take the car seriously after 7 years of use. Before that, I changed the clutch, pads, brake discs. 2 times the pump and on trifles: light bulb straps, muffler parts. I almost did everything myself. Now I'll take care of the suspension, transmission, and a little bit of the motor. I made the following list of planned inspection and replacement work:

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Posted by Penitto on October 24, 2016 Leave a Comment

Stopped showing, the signal from the sensor comes to the tidy. I'm disassembling ...

I found an exploded capacitor, everything around it was oxidized. I ripped off some of the oxide, replaced the capacitor - no changes, today I will check all the tracks and contacts, spikes.

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Zadolbalo tapping / tinkling / rattling something in the front right. Diagnostics in the service did not show worn-out rubber bands, silent blocks, ball. I will change the support cup, shock absorber.

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Zadolbalo sniff from all the cracks, determined where the gases come from.

The connection between the manifold and the front pipe and the fucking ring between the two flared pipes. Flaring work was once bent by a high curb). I tried several times to straighten it myself, the cracks still remain.

Bought two Bosal gaskets 256877 and 256737

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Posted by Penitto on October 14, 2013 2 Comments

After repairing the idle speed, the problem of cold start remains, which manifests itself randomly. Usually won't start after long periods of inactivity in wet weather. However, dry weather also did not happen sometimes. If you manage to start the first time in the morning, the whole day will start perfectly.
The last unsuccessful attempt to start the engine was 4 days ago in the evening. After 3 days, it started up in the afternoon. The next morning started up normally today. In this case, long attempts to start the engine lead only to the discharge of the battery. At the first attempts after disconnecting the starter, a pop is sometimes heard in one of the cylinders. A similar situation was when there was no spark, but flashes in the cylinders did not appear at all. Then the crankshaft speed sensor died

Filed under Volvo 940 Tagged with

Posted by Penitto on September 16, 2013 Leave a Comment

Periodically, after tedious trips through traffic jams, the idle speed was not reset to the required 700-800 rpm.
Stand for a minute at a traffic light at 1200-1500 rpm, the rpm returned to normal. The idle valve stuck (when I took it off it was clear that the damper stopped in the wrong place, with manual deflection). I took it off, washed it, soaked it in kerosene, and switched it on many times in it. I skated without problems for almost a year.
Recently, such a glitch began to appear: you drive for a long time in traffic jams, the revolutions grow to 1100-1500 and keep constantly
To return to normal, you had to turn off the engine, wait a couple of minutes, the speed dropped.
Considering past experience, I began to look for where to buy a new idle valve.
It took a little time of irritating driving at high idle, bought a new MASTER SPORT valve 0280140516PCSMS

Cars presented in the manual:

Volvo cars 1990-1997 model year: VOLVO 940SE, VOLVO 940, VOLVO GLE, VOLVO GL, 940 Turbo, VOLVO 960, with gasoline engines of 2.0, 2.3, 2.5, 2.9 liters.

This manual describes in detail the methods of repairing VOLVO 940, 960 cars, as well as the main malfunctions and methods of their elimination.

A detailed description of the car, a description of the main components and assemblies, electrical diagrams will help the workshop masters or the owners of these wonderful cars to deal with the breakdown in a timely manner and eliminate the malfunctions ...

Cars presented in the manual:

Volvo cars 1990-1997 model year: VOLVO 940SE, VOLVO 940, VOLVO GLE, VOLVO GL, 940 Turbo, VOLVO 960, with gasoline engines of 2.0, 2.3, 2.5, 2.9 liters.

This manual describes in detail the methods of repairing VOLVO 940, 960 cars, as well as the main malfunctions and methods of their elimination.

A detailed description of the car, a description of the main components and assemblies, electrical diagrams will help the workshop masters or the owners of these wonderful cars to deal with the breakdown in a timely manner and eliminate the malfunctions ...

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The manual will be useful to owners of Volvo 940, Volvo 960 cars, service station workers, service station personnel, mechanics and repair shops.

* VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION / REPAIR RECOMMENDATIONS
* ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
* OPERATING FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS
* ENGINE REGULATIONS
* EXHAUST SYSTEM
* ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS
* FUEL SYSTEM
* HEATING SYSTEM
* AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM
* SYSTEM "CRUISE CONTROL"
* ENGINE ELECTRICAL
* ACCESSORY EQUIPMENT
* INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES
* LIGHTING
* WIRING DIAGRAMS
* MANUAL TRANSMISSION
* CLUTCH
* AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
* DRIVE GEAR
* REAR AXLE
* FRONT SUSPENSION
* MULTI-LINK REAR SUSPENSION
* STEERING
* BRAKES
* BODY

Here you can find some prices for locksmith and body repair in Volvo 940 service. You can get more accurate information by calling +7 (495) 226-48-69 or by visiting the technical center in person.

Tire fitting, balancing of car wheels

Transmission - car front axle

Transmission - rear axle of the vehicle

Vehicle brakes and braking systems

Gearbox - automatic transmission, manual transmission, MTA, Robot, Izitronic, Variator, RK, KOM

Car steering

Heating and ventilation, car air conditioning

Seat belts, airbags, airbag control units

Car maintenance MOT - scheduled MOT, annual MOT, seasonal MOT service

Electrician - electrical equipment and car wiring

Since time immemorial, automakers have introduced regulations Maintenance their offspring. Carrying out maintenance Volvo 940 it is necessary to maintain the car in a technically sound condition for the entire service life and timely identification and elimination of current malfunctions, which leads to minimization of costs for repairing Volvo 940.

By clicking on the link you can read the general recommendations for conducting Maintenance and below you can see our proposal for maintenance Volvo 940.

Reinforcement works - assembly / disassembly of the car body and interior

Self-diagnosis of Volvo 940.

Repair of front calipers VOLVO 940, 740, 960, 760

Turbine disassembly diagnostics DIY repair (volvo turbine)

Repair of the external handle VOLVO 740. Full version. Aluminum casting

Replacement of shock absorbers VOLVO 740

SNOW - VOLVO 940 for 45 t rubles | New project - NOT RESTORATION | Zenkevich About cars

repair of a volvo740 steering rack at home. h-1

Ventilation of crankcase gases by the hands of a beginner.

Flywheel hybrid for VOLVO 940 under the M90 gearbox

Self-diagnosis of Volvo 940.

Repair of front calipers VOLVO 940, 740, 960, 760

repair of a volvo740 steering rack at home. h-1

Turbine disassembly diagnostics DIY repair (volvo turbine)

Repair of the external handle VOLVO 740. Full version. Aluminum casting

Dismantling and repair of the front suspension on the 940

SNOW - VOLVO 940 for 45 t rubles | New project - NOT RESTORATION | Zenkevich About cars

Repair of a front bumper on a Volvo 940

Self-diagnosis of Volvo 940.

Repair of front calipers VOLVO 940, 740, 960, 760

Turbine disassembly diagnostics DIY repair (volvo turbine)

repair of a volvo740 steering rack at home. h-1

Replacement of shock absorbers VOLVO 740

DIY Volvo 240 repair (Day 1, 27-06-2016)

Repair of the external handle VOLVO 740. Full version. Aluminum casting

Ventilation of crankcase gases by the hands of a beginner.

Flywheel hybrid for VOLVO 940 under the M90 gearbox

Service manual Volvo 940, Volvo 960 1990-1997 PDF

Year of publication: 2002
Autoliterature from Donchik publishing house
Russian language
The Volvo 940 repair book 1990-1997 is intended to help drivers and locksmiths to repair the Volvo 960 with their own hands. The manual describes the device, repair, technical characteristics of the Volvo 960, units and various systems. The autobook contains a sequence of disassembly and repair of units using photos with detailed descriptions of the actions performed.
The Appendices contain recommended tools, lubricants and operating fluids, lip seals, bearings, tightening torques for threaded connections, lamps.The Volvo 940 repair manual contains electrical diagrams. The manual contains information on the 940SE, 940, 940GLE, 940GL, 940 Turbo and 960 models with 1.9 liter, 2.3 liter, 2.4 liter petrol engines. and 2.9 liters.
All technical literature is presented for informational purposes only.

The file is in PDF format that can be opened with Adobe Reader.

Video (click to play).

You can download it for free at the link

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