In detail: a low gear UAZ do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the sitemy.housecope.comtakes off.
Departure gears speaks of the deterioration of some gearbox and gearbox units. It is treated only by opening and subsequent normal repairs. I have two UAZs and none of them fly out. Moreover, one is 81 years old. Many will talk about the norm for UAZ. Departure of gears starts from barbaric exploitation and no less barbaric service and cheap oils
Here, here I have a riddle in general. made RK 2.6, all bearings are changed, gears are new. The checkpoint is also in perfect order, no backlashes, no beats. The reduced one flies out even at light load. The only suspicion of that is that after the lift of the body, the rubber band does not allow to turn on the lowered one and “squeezes” the lever. can someone tell me what?
The only suspicion of that is that after the lift of the body, the rubber band does not allow to turn on the lowered one and “squeezes” the lever. can someone tell me what?
no matter how funny it sounds - but it may well be - after the lift it began to fly out - the elastic band is very tough, cut it - it helped
no matter how funny it sounds - but it may well be - after the lift it began to fly out - the elastic band is very tough, cut it - it helped
Yeah, the gum is still Soviet, oak to the point of horror. How (or rather, where) was it cut?
Here, here I have a riddle in general. made RK 2.6, all bearings are changed, gears are new. The checkpoint is also in perfect order, no backlashes, no beats. The reduced one flies out even at light load. The only suspicion of that is that after the lift of the body, the rubber band does not allow to turn on the lowered one and “squeezes” the lever. can someone tell me what?
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- Shapsug
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- Where: planet Earth
- Registered: 24.12.2011
- Posts: 2419
For those who professionally ride in the mountains on a UAZ 469 during prolonged climbs, especially at high engine speeds with an uneven roadway, regardless of the wear of the gearbox, the downshift of the gearbox is knocked out - there are many reasons that arise both from the wear of the gearbox itself and from the longitudinal displacement of the power units of the RCP and knocking out the lever for engaging a low gear due to a narrow hole in the so-called "Tortoise", some are trying to solve this problem with their hands holding the lever, others insert a wrench between the front axle engagement levers and the downshift lever, but a new solution to this problem has appeared ——————–
my local friend "Kulibin" under the name uncle Vova invented such a lock, which I used for a year, there was no error, although the machine is often exposed to critical moments.
Edited by shapsug (03/05/2015 10:17:54 PM)
The assembly of the RK cover in which the rear axle drive shaft is located is clearly not structurally modified. The story is, they put a full set of 2, 8 from IZH Techno, all the shafts and gears, plus rem. kit, Volzhsky bearings, oil seals, etc. From the native RK, only the speedometer drive gear and the front axle disconnect clutch remained. I drove about 20 km. on all-wheel drive, after we decided to check the lowering, the snow is dense to the knee, the rubber is 32nd MT, we made our way with difficulty about 200m., everything seems to be fine, rushing like a tank But the next day, we look, and the drive rod with a speed sensor on the wires hanging. They removed the cover of the RK and taaaaam ASS. Just like in Krekh 4x4, the same bearing in a specific dust, well, the gear and the speedometer drive rod as in this video. And, most importantly, BURST the case of the transfer case cover along the bolt hole, one of the five that fasten the cover of this bearing to the cover of the RK case. Now I am looking for the RK corps.If anyone has, please unsubscribe, ready to buy.
Oleg, and such a razdatka can be put instead of p. because daimos on patr 15th year?
I remembered how I went overboard on the razdatka, one, the shaft with gears, the lower 90kg, I was 100kg, with the help of a sledgehammer and some mother, I defeated her, the 6th year is walking
tapping, puking should be adopted
izh techno here is nothing to do with clubhand uazovskih spare parts. I didn’t do anything for myself, except for making a cut in the crankcase under the gear and the rods, too, didn’t alter the year of operation, everything was fine.
what and how the gears and bearings were pressed, is there a description or a video?
How did you ensure that the bearing does not come out of its seat, the one with the gear?
The closed bearing does not make noise because it is lubricated inside, and the open type is not lubricated But in real life your closed bearing will die much faster, because the lubricant from the box will not be available to him I advise you to remove the cuff from the inside before installation, then everything will be hockey
please tell me I have a noise in the RK when the downshift and reverse gear are turned on, the sound disappears, but in other cases there is sound. The sound is most audible in the area of the parking brake drum. Because of this sound, I went through the working RC 2 times, nothing helps.
Hello, from Ufa Like for the video
FBJ bearings - China, absolutely gov. but also dangerous in the critical nodes of APP-Group, NXZ, TORQUE, the same place but better than CRAFT. KPK bearings are rather of poor quality, since the Kursk Bearing Plant 20 GPZ makes thrust bearings so it was created under the advice, SPZ-4 Samara is not a plant in fact, but a workshop. The market is actually overwhelmed not with condition and created by a bunch of shit .. but brands. Best in my opinion Russian UAZ Intermediate. transfer case shaft bearing 6-292305AE it can be bought as a roller bearing KAMAZ divider, Volzhsky 15 GPP or VPZ under the brand VOLZHSKY STANDARD there are fakes 292305-6 AEM foreign analogue RNU305TU, those that are ball with grooves for rings, 3 of them are 6-50306KU buy as the Bearing of the VAZ-2101-21 gearbox of the secondary shaft of the front axle, the transfer case YaMZ TNVD NO VPZ-2350306 6306N CJSC Vologda Bearing Plant VPZ-23 VBF brand, then bearings 6-307A307A and 306 import 6307 VBF Vologda or 3 GPZ Saratov. VBF Vologda bearings,
I have a razdatka with novya kicks. can you do something ?? when I bought it, I contacted the office of the service, they said that such tolerances were at the handout. they say if you make it without gaps then it will break .. I somehow got used to ride. but yesterday I put BLOCKK in the ass and these kicks became more frequent .. this effect is obtained when the bridge tries to push the engine, and then loses speed and the engine pushes the bridge, that's how the blows in the razdatka are pinging how to deal with it ??
produced under license from fbj japan. but it was made most likely in China
The Japanese bearing does not make noise as it is clogged with grease inside and closed with plastic covers. Disassemble it, rinse it and it will also make noise like the original UAZ one. And the UAZovsky was specially made open, so it would be constantly lubricated with oil.
there should be no backlash, from this there are extraneous noises, and they crawl in the seats, they need to be tinned with tin or a stranded wire from the battery
The design is nowhere simpler, and the bearings are so lucky.
I come to the conclusion that izh-techno is better than a gear motive at the same price
Test All whole, did not expect A little CV joint sauce and again into battle.
this question was discussed a long time ago in the conference, I don't remember what they decided on and did not find it on the UAZBUK.
yeah. Damn acrobat. we do not know damn Linux drivers .. but probably put a fresh acrobat (I think so) 🙂 there are all sorts of compression and so on .. I'll try to come up with something .. overtake in some kind of postscript or what?
: And I'm looking, I'm not looking, I can't find it. Wouldn't hurt. I was also going to sketch and make a COM from Polish pictures, and here the RC is right under the cabin frame, and the COM will not fit ((
Description: here everyone can ask a question regarding technology: repair, construction and improvement of their war horse
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Well, I understand everything that you can do it yourself, but without knowing anything about it, you can get into a 2-fold installation and removal of the IRK checkpoint at least, so I just don't want to lie on the ground and others.
I found out that smart guys are doing repairs in Maryanskaya, on Monday I’ll find out why.
Oleg B wrote: Well, I understand everything that you can do it yourself, but without knowing anything about it you can get into a 2-fold installation and removal of the IRK checkpoint at least, so I just don't want to lie on the ground and others. after own renovation.
I found out that smart guys are doing repairs in Maryanskaya, on Monday I’ll find out why.
Here, in my opinion, you are wrong, I also never made a car myself before buying a UAZ, but here it is better to learn in the garage or even without it, but close to the house from the heat, etc. than to go through the basics in the mud in the forest ..
And it's cold, put on cotton pants and a jacket, it will be hot.
By the way - recently for the first time (before that I changed the gear on the guarantee, I walked, looked, asked, but it wasn’t much use until I did it myself, I didn’t remember it), too, for the same reason, I was dismantling the handout box - at the same time I decided to change the clutch release (it made a little noise) and the main oil seal (leaked a little)
So I disassembled and assembled all three times, so the third time there were no problems.
And I had to take off the impeller in the forest for the first time - it's good that a lot of people were prompted .. - special thanks to the bear, space and many others .. And if one were, I don't know what I would do ..
Message dimarikuaz010 »28 Mar 2014, 02:19
Message fidel4x4 »06 Apr 2014, 09:02
you tie the lever and nothing flies out)))
Added after 52 seconds:
but it crashes due to poor quality gears most likely
Message paxeh »06 Apr 2014, 15:37
On 469 it heals well, with a key 17 on 19
Also put 3.3. did not take off a couple of trips, then it started.
Message Modeler »06 Apr 2014, 18:55
Message Zavodnoy »06 Apr 2014, 19:41
SCALES, DISPENSERS, PACKAGERS. Delivery, repair, modernization, rental. Label, receipt tape. ... t. 63-79-00
Message qwestrs »06 Apr 2014, 20:56
Message Yastrebov72 »06 Apr 2014, 21:17
Message Modeler »Apr 06, 2014 10:15 pm
qwestrs comrade gave the box for kapitalku, says that everything was changed as it was worn out. Looks like they overlooked, or this is not the reason it turns out. But I'll give him a note of your verdict.
Added after 3 minutes 10 seconds:
qwestrs did not immediately understand what you wrote. He flies an increased and not a decreased
Message qwestrs »Apr 06, 2014 10:26 pm
The modeler wrote: qwestrs comrade gave the box to the capital, says that everything has changed as it wears out. Looks like they overlooked, or this is not the reason it turns out. But I'll give him a note of your verdict.
Added after 3 minutes 10 seconds:
qwestrs did not immediately understand what you wrote. He flies an increased and not a decreased
Forum of the All-Russian Club of UAZ Patriot Owners
Message Ivanych Wed Dec 26, 2007 09:42
Message kom »Wed Dec 26, 2007 09:55
Message kom »Wed Dec 26, 2007 09:58
Message Kaban Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:25 am
“. I do not like it when they crawl into my soul, especially when they spit in it. "V.S. Vysotsky.
Lump the Great. Lump Almighty. Kara is inevitable because gee 🙂
Message 21112 "Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:58 am
Message Andrey28 »Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:10
Message kom »Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:11
And here are the other “knowers”.
Quote from the Kama Sutra.
Spontaneous disengagement of gears when the car is moving
Gear teeth wear
Increased clearance in the spline connection of the drive shaft gear (transmission output shaft)
Decrease in the elasticity of the springs of the retainers or wear of the parts of the retainers
Message Alexander72 »Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:34 am
Message kom »Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:40 am
I will add more from the service manual.
Bearing wear causing misalignment of shafts.
Incomplete gear engagement due to bent or worn shift forks.
So, where to look - is. You can even probably find where to treat. There would be a desire.
Message kom »Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:50 am
Message azazell »Wed Dec 26, 2007 18:29
Message fale »Wed Dec 26, 2007 22:18
Message Ivanych »Fri Dec 28, 2007 09:32
Message kom »Fri Dec 28, 2007 09:43
Message wiktor »Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:13 am
Message Andrey28 »Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:20 am
Message Andrey28 »Mon Dec 31, 2007 11:29 am
Yes, it rarely happens to be clearly convinced of the need for a reduced one. I had to.
We are driving along the highway there is a truck (broke down) and everyone on the left bypasses it.
I drive into the snow thrown off the road (a healthy snowdrift) and, like a smart guy, I try to go around it on the right.
The snow is wet and the engine simply stalls, cannot spin the wheels.
Here with a low - just right he was .. He pulled it out, like a dear one. It was very clear.
By the way, we were driving with Sem and he will not let him lie, it was so.
Message wiktor »Mon Dec 31, 2007 15:15
Andrey28 wrote: Yes, it rarely happens to be clearly convinced of the need for a reduced one. I had to.
We are driving along the highway there is a truck (broke down) and everyone on the left bypasses it.
I drive into the snow thrown off the road (a healthy snowdrift) and, like a smart guy, I try to go around it on the right.
The snow is wet and the engine simply stalls, cannot spin the wheels.
Here with a low - just right he was .. He pulled it out, like a dear one. It was very clear.
By the way, we were driving with Sem and he will not let him lie, it was so.
And I dragged the boards along the sand with a kato dragging the boards were a little incorrectly laid like a plow, constantly buried in the sand there and I was disappointed in the lowered thing, not that it is not needed and it is not needed with such a gear ratio, it rushes too quickly and very little the 1st reduced differs from just the first ..
I have such a wrong IMHO, but it's mine that the 5th lowered one should be slower and more powerful than the 1st one, usually then there will be a sense from the lowered one.
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- Gray
- Biker
- Inactive
- Registered: 19/02/2009
- Posts: 160
Are many UAZ drivers (especially owners of the Dymos gearbox) familiar with the problem of dropping out under load?
Some owners of new cars (released since December 2009) have already tasted the joy of a retainer on the RK, which completely excludes this phenomenon.
Get ready to help everyone, the owner of the old-style RC, offended by the lack of a retainer!
The issue price is 4000 wooden ones.
the joy of the retainer on the RK, completely eliminating this phenomenon.
.
I ask you to DO NOT BE DONE. This NOT TRUE.
Assemble the assembly BY DRAWINGS. and you will be happy!
- Gray
- Biker
- Inactive
- Registered: 19/02/2009
- Posts: 160
the joy of the retainer on the RK, completely eliminating this phenomenon.
.
I ask you to DO NOT BE DONE. This NOT TRUE.
It is regrettable to report, but in this case the “professional” is again wrong.
Flock, Flock, Akello missed.
I have a Patriot for TCP in January 2009, but judging by the sticker on the windshield - from the assembly line in December 2008. After the elevator and installation of the 33rd Goodrich Ol-Terrane rubber, a low gear began to fly out in the mud. At the worst possible moment - approx. 200 km. from civilization, in a puddle of mud with a rut over the bridges, after the next flight, the gears apparently flew and a wild crunch rose. After pulling out with a tractor on such a RK, I drove to the house and to the service. As a result, the box contains porridge made of metal. I had to change the RK to a new one. In the service, the guarantee was denied, explaining that it was my fault, since I, apparently, turned on the reduced one on the go. Naturally, I don’t remember this, but there was no point in arguing. As a result, for all the box, removing the old one, installing the new one gave 25 tr. That's it. The new box does not fly out yet. True, I tried it only in deep snow - like winter has already begun. :)
the joy of the retainer on the RK, completely eliminating this phenomenon.
.
I ask you to DO NOT BE DONE. This NOT TRUE.
It is regrettable to report, but in this case the “professional” is again wrong.
Flock, Flock, Akello missed.
Dear Gray! I strongly recommend not to be like your guide, DO NOT LIE TO PEOPLE. It is better to take not 4 but 10 rubles, but REALLY MAKE that the RC does not take off (the technology is known, I am sincerely sure that you too), and do not VAPOR the “super fixer” at the price of an airplane.
P.S. I am always right!
- Gray
- Biker
- Inactive
- Registered: 19/02/2009
- Posts: 160
I ask you to DO NOT BE DONE. This NOT TRUE.
It is regrettable to report, but in this case the “professional” is again wrong.
Flock, Flock, Akello missed.
Dear Gray! I strongly recommend not to be like your guide, DO NOT LIE TO PEOPLE. It is better to take not 4 but 10 rubles, but REALLY MAKE that the RC does not take off (the technology is known, I am sincerely sure that you too), and do not VAPOR the “super fixer” at the price of an airplane.
P.S. I am always right!
Not in this case! Look at the new RCs from the car factory - already with a retainer. And the drawings for the fixator from the same beloved plant. But I will take note of your advice! Especially for you, the price of the fixator is 10,000 rubles!
we remove, disassemble and change what is broken
if I am not correctly formulating the question. if I don't understand something.
take off, disassemble and? If you haven't seen how it should be - how do you know that it shouldn't be that way? (On which gear and within what limits is wear allowed? On which bearings can there be backlash, and on which not? Etc.)
So I wanted to know exactly the specifics, and not “shoot, disassemble, change. "
how we communicate in different languages.
pavelzhuravlyov Dec 10, 2009 10:51 pm
I, too, on a loaf under load, pops up a reduced one. I think the point is in the adjustment, since nothing should be demolished yet. Mileage is only 15,000 thousand kilometers.
I, too, on a loaf under load, pops up a reduced one. I think the point is in the adjustment, since nothing should be demolished yet. Mileage is only 15,000 thousand kilometers.
And what, with novya jumped out? when did it start?
On my killed unit, the lowered one crawled out slowly, but on some extreme snot it kept and did not jump out.
After replacing the box with a new one and the bulkhead of the transfer case (without replacing the gears, like the good master said) - it crashes, and abruptly: click and you're done
pavelzhuravlyov 11 Dec 2009, 22:31
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Message VARYAG »27 Apr 2012, 15:05
UAZ-452 was originally created for the Soviet armed forces as a medical service vehicle, where in this connection it was dubbed the "pill" (the civilian nickname is "loaf").
So the design of mechanisms, including the transfer case, is simplified as much as possible.
During operation, the entire transmission system is unpretentious, which is confirmed by half a century of practice. Manufacturer's only recommendation: periodically check the oil level and check the fasteners.
In addition, if necessary, adjust the front links and subject the lever pivots to preventive lubrication. This mechanical unit, including bearings, does not require any more maintenance and adjustment.
The distribution box for UAZ-452 is the heart of the car's transmission. It transmits dynamic force to the front and rear axles and has 2 operating modes: direct and reduction (with a gear ratio of 1.94).
The latter contributes to the creation of more effective traction during overcoming off-road and terrain folds.
When assembling, the working gears of the transfer case are mounted taking into account the noise emitted during rotation. When, in the process of work, a worn gear is replaced with a new one, an increased noise level often occurs in the box, which does not pose a danger and usually passes over time.
Repair signals can be:
- Oil leak.
- Increased noise and vibration.
- Difficult switching from one position to another.
- Spontaneous knocking out of the included operating mode.
Although often, troubleshooting is enough just to adjust the fasteners or lubricate problem areas and points. If this does not help, the car must be driven into an inspection pit or overpass, after which the technological operations must be carried out in a strict sequence.
Repair stages:
- dismantling and disassembling the box;
- breakdown detection;
- elimination of the causes of malfunctions (replacement or restoration of parts);
- assembly, installation at a regular place, adjustment.
Both levers are located in the cab to the right of the driver. The upper one is designed for remote control of the front axle and is fixed in 2 positions - rear (when the drive is off) and front (when it is on).
The loaf's front axle is used only when driving in difficult conditions. No wonder the "torpedo" has a nameplate in front of the levers "Turn off the front axle when driving on dry hard roads!"
Bottom powers demultiplier (which is also called a divider in the car model). The fact is that in the UAZ, as in any off-road vehicle or off-road vehicle, gear shifting is provided not only in the gearbox, but also in the transfer case.
For the latter, there are 3 positions - rear (with low gear engaged), middle or neutral (in which the shaft is not connected), forward (with direct gear engaged).
The lowered step can only be used after changing to the front axle. It, in turn, cannot be turned off with a functioning lower stage.
——————
What is impossible? It is impossible to put pants over your head, and everything else would be a desire.
——————
What is impossible? It is impossible to put pants over your head, and everything else would be a desire.
I'll try to do it myself. I also read on Uazbuk that it happens that a biscuit flies out of the synchronizer and wedges in 4th gear. It is treated by breaking a biscuit with a small chisel. Further, the ride is carried out on 2 breadcrumbs.
E-mine. uaz.
I'll try to do it myself. I also read on Uazbuk that it happens that a biscuit flies out of the synchronizer and wedges in 4th gear. It is treated by breaking a biscuit with a small chisel. Further, the ride is carried out on 2 breadcrumbs.
E-mine. uaz.
Well, that's all right. When the fourth or then the second was stuck. Rusk has nothing to do with it. Open the lid and you will see everything. Learning, as they say, is light, but it is this malfunction that is simply classic. The UAZ stops driving due to a gearbox malfunction only in two cases. The first is the one I described, the second is when the body falls apart. Moreover, the first does not happen on loaves.
For 500 thousand runs on different-caliber UAZ vehicles, only these two breakdowns forced us to stop and take some action. Gearbox wear, bald synchronizers, lack of oil - not so critical
UAZ is pathologically afraid of clean hands and smart books
Good luck!
Thanks a lot! Exactly. You can't drink experience
Thanks a lot! Exactly. You can't drink experience
If I were you, I would just give a damn, and I would be useful to repair when it will be necessary to change the clutch.
But the clutch still needs to be looked at. Sometimes at the start the UAZ starts to twitch so that all the cars within a radius of five meters scatter, like fry from a perch. I sinned on carb and ignition - but I seem to have adjusted it, everything is fine. So the clutch is buggy.
Although the UAZ SUV has two driving axles, unlike, for example, the all-wheel drive "Niva", it does not have a center differential in its transmission. And the front drive axle is designed only to overcome a difficult-to-pass section of the road or off-road. Moreover, in order to turn on the front axle, first, on the hubs of each front wheel, turn the quick coupling of the hub (hub) by hand to the 4x4 position (on old UAZ vehicles, they are turned with a special key) and only then a low or high gear is switched on transfer case.
Inexperienced UAZ drivers, who have skidded in their car for the first time, connect the front axle to get out, but the axle refuses to become the leading one.They think that some kind of malfunction has appeared in it and it is necessary to find it. But later it turns out that they did not know that the hubs had to be switched on before overcoming the section of the road on which it is possible to skid. Since after turning them to the 4x4 position, the front drive axle will turn on only after the front wheels have made at least 1-1.5 revolutions without slipping.
If the front driving axle of the UAZ refuses to work, a simple diagnosis is made to identify the node in which the malfunction has appeared. They turn on the hubs of both front wheels, hang the front axle and try to turn the cardan going from the front axle to the transfer case. If the front wheels rotate, then you will have to remove the transfer case and look for a malfunction in it, and if the wheels do not rotate, then the malfunction is in the front axle.
The most likely malfunction in the front axle will be the failure of the hub, which has worn out or cut off small sharp splines. With the help of these splines, when the hub is turned on, the clutch housing engages with the inner sleeve, which is worn on the axle shaft. And if the splines are cut off, then the rotation from the axle shaft will not be transmitted to the wheel hub.
The front axle will not work if there are malfunctions: in the transfer case gear engagement mechanism; the fork of the low and high gear is deformed; the teeth of the transfer case gears are worn out. Sometimes the front axle shuts down spontaneously. This can be caused by wear on the bearings of the transfer case shafts, as a result of which the shafts are skewed. Worn out parts of the retainer or breakage of the spring in the transfer case engagement mechanism will also lead to spontaneous shutdown of the front axle.
Almost all UAZ vehicles have a transfer case in their design. Distributor UAZ is designed to distribute torque to all drive mechanisms of the vehicle. As a rule, the unit is installed on off-road vehicles, that is, off-road vehicles. It makes it easier to drive the vehicle off-road.
Basically, the transfer case for UAZ is installed on those machines where there are two driving axles. It distributes torque to these axles according to a specific principle, allowing the front axle to be engaged and disengaged as needed.
The transfer case is located next to the gearbox and is optional, sometimes a device that increases torque is attached to it. The transfer case is two-stage, its presence makes it possible to double the total number of gears and, due to this, operate the car in the most difficult road conditions. The unit is installed on UAZ Hunter, UAZ Patriot, UAZ "loaf" and other models of this car plant.
The transfer case for UAZ consists of the following main elements: drive shaft, differential, differential lock device, rear axle drive, gear train, reduction gear and front axle drive. The device is shown in Fig. 1. For the convenience of switching the transfer case in the car there are special levers that allow you to turn on or off the rear or front axles, turn on both axles at the same time.
A metal crankcase with a cover is attached to the rear wall of the gearbox through the holes in the support plate. This crankcase is the main one in the design of the transfer case. Centering is carried out on a ball bearing.
The cover and crankcase are connected by small bolts and secured with two shifters to prevent unintended movement. Behind the transfer case is the parking brake mechanism. On the bearings inside the crankcase, there are special shafts that are leading and intermediate. There are also shafts that drive both axles at the same time.
The distribution box for UAZ Hunter is more perfect, which is due to the smaller module of the gear teeth and, accordingly, the reduced gear ratio. But it can be completely replaced with the old model without losing its working properties.
It is possible to replace the gears in order to change the torque of the low and main gear, modify the transfer case to eliminate noise. The underdrive has self-switching properties. Tuning the transfer case can fix this problem. In addition, the design itself is not very reliable, sometimes it is required to strengthen the fastening to the body. Sometimes the transfer case is altered so that it completely disables the front axle.
New and old parts: the difference in the shift mechanism is obvious
The transfer case, like other mechanisms in the car, requires care and scheduled maintenance in order to prevent malfunctions. The oil should be changed periodically in the distributor and, if necessary, inspect and replace the oil seals. The transfer case can be adjusted by the car owner independently according to his needs and desires.
To prevent the filler plug from sticking tightly over time, it must be periodically cleaned with degreasing agents. The same should be done with the thread on the gearbox. After cleaning, the plug threads are lubricated with a special grease to fix the threaded connections. The plug must be tightened tightly, but not overtightened.
It is not recommended to install used oil seals on the distributor. Before installation, new parts must be lubricated with the oil with which they will work. The place of installation, on the contrary, should be wiped with a degreaser. When installing oil seals, you must carefully monitor the correctness of the process, do everything smoothly and accurately, without distortions.
The transfer case breather on some UAZ vehicles requires a little modification. It should be taken out under the hood of the car so that no liquid gets into it. For these purposes, you can use brake hoses and pipes. To prevent dust from entering the bridge, filters are attached to the ends of all tubes. When the car enters any body of water more than it should be, there is a risk of water getting into the bridge, so it is advisable to bend the ends of the tubes down.
Possible breakdowns of the UAZ transfer case:
- the occurrence of extraneous noise and hum;
- self-deactivation of the low gear (a fairly common problem of UAZ razdatok);
- gear breakage, a common problem is the loss of teeth;
- oil leakage through oil seals;
- destruction of bearings due to wear.
Long journeys with under-inflated, over-inflated wheels or improper distribution of pressure in the tires can lead to these breakdowns. A permanently connected front axle can also cause a malfunction. It should turn on only when necessary, and turn off when unnecessary. A badly screwed transfer case becomes a source of extraneous noise. Propeller shaft malfunctions can also affect the operation of the transfer case.
Poor quality components, especially bearings, is another hand-out problem. Low-quality bearings tend to fail quickly. The use of low-quality oil also leads to rapid wear of all parts of the unit. A similar problem will arise due to an insufficient amount of lubricant, therefore it is so important to monitor its level, top up and change oxol on time.
Often, inexperienced craftsmen can poorly tune the transfer case and set the wrong transmission ratios, which causes problems with the transfer case in the future.
Before carrying out an inspection, all elements must be thoroughly cleaned with a brush and a special scraper. After removal, rinse the parts under running water and blow out with a jet of air. Pay special attention to the bearings, they should be blown out slightly, not quickly, to avoid damage.
The crankcase and covers are inspected for cracks and other damage (chips and severe wear). Such malfunctions lead to oil leakage with all the ensuing consequences. Oil seals are replaced with new ones, even if they have very minor damage. Wear of the lip of the gland by more than 1 mm will result in the failure of other parts.
Disassembly process of the unit
Damage is also unacceptable on the working surface of the shaft, on the threads and splines. The gear teeth are examined. Their condition should be almost perfect. It is bad if even slight wear is present. Check the gears for scuffing gaps - they should not be. In case of slight wear, the gears must be immediately replaced with new ones.
The bearings must be free of any damage in the area of the raceways of the rings. It is important that other parts are also intact: cages, rollers, balls. Frequent bearing breakdowns are cracks and chips on the rings. You need to try to turn the bearing: if it knocks or has an uneven stroke with periodic seizures, this indicates a malfunction.
Stems and forks can deform and seize over time. At the first manifestations of such malfunctions, the parts should be replaced without waiting for a complete failure. A spring that has lost its elasticity is replaced with a new one.
Seizures and burrs on the hub and coupling can be repaired with a file. A sign of a problem will be sticking and seizing when shifting the lever. If the clutch teeth are damaged or wrinkled and prevent the lever from shifting, replace the part.
The satellite is considered to be a weak spot in the differential. If the damage to its surface is minor, it can be sanded. If there is serious damage, a replacement cannot be avoided.
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The transfer case is a simple additional vehicle control mechanism. This device is specially designed for off-road vehicles. Any work with the distributor, its maintenance and prevention of breakdowns are quite simple, they can be done independently.