Whirlpool l1782 do-it-yourself repair does not turn on

Good day, dear visitors.
Today is a note, or rather an essay about. washing machine repair!
Immediately I will make a reservation that in electrical engineering I am zero without a stick, so I ask you forgive me for seasoned radio electronics engineers for possible inaccuracies / words / terms. Also, some photos are taken from Google, as I have already sowed mine.
So, here she is, the heroine of the story - Whirlpool awe 2221.

There are no suspicious swelling / blackening / melting / cracking.

Conclusion:
If you yourself know how to read circuits and solder, then these are flowers for you. Buying analogs for all components from the repair kit is not very expensive.
If not, then either look for a person with a soldering iron or a service. But there the price tag, I suppose, is solid.
Here is such an interesting case happened to me and I decided that suddenly someone would come in handy!
Thank you for your attention!
Goodbye.

Hello,
after a power surge, the machine stopped turning on.
Please tell me the marking D012, D013.
In diode mode (without soldering), the multimeter seems to be 1400/180, 1100/500.
I'll take it on Ali, in the same place I already ordered R020 and U002, conductors and diodes, varistors
Can anyone have a diagram?
Thank you.

IMG_20161215_115847.jpg 125.31 KB Downloaded: 1157 times

Poke a link pliz, did not find it. That's why I wrote.
I am 500 km from Moscow, 35 km from Toropets. Village. Himself a master, mower, plowman.
For 6 years in the village I have broken:
Washing machine 1pc, dishwasher 2pc - power surges, refrigerator, TV set in Moscow, battery charger (lightning), microwave oven 2pc - neighbor turned on empty, lighting control module on Patriot. and further. They will send me to Ali with a stock of spare parts. While winter. fixing. Summer is not up to that. So, I came here for the whole winter. or until I fix it.

I found it on the chip-dip like D013
BZT03-C200-TAP, Zener diode 200V, 1.3W, SOD-57 = 34 rubles per piece without delivery
You can replace him with a Chinese brother with Ali
Lines BYV27-200 SOD-57 200 V low noise and ultra-fast recovery diode-KSYHKJ = 10 pcs for 119 rubles with delivery?

Twice in a month we met Whirlpool top-loading washing machines with the same symptom - it does not turn on. After the repair, I found quite a lot of references to such a breakdown on the English-language Internet, and on one forum even a photo of a kit for repairing such machines with an indication of the denomination of all parts. The details are all readily available in Russia. In both cases, there was one characteristic feature - a burnt out resistor R20. This, of course, is not a cause, but a consequence, and if it is replaced with a new one, it will also fail. The reason in both cases was the failure of the PWM controller. It is responsible for the processor voltage and since the processor does not receive voltage, the machine does not turn on either. It turned out to be sufficient to replace the resistor and the PWM controller in order for both washing machines to work. It seems that this and similar models have this weak point and due to power surges, such breakdowns will happen to them more than once.

Here is a list of all the parts responsible for powering the processor with their ratings:
- U002 - LNK304PN
- R020 - 22 Ohm wire resistor / 3W (stronger than the original 2W) + 33Ohm for L1799, L2158, L2524. I also have 27 Ohm resitor, if you need it for any other board. Just notify
me by email if you need it.
- L003 - 0.47mH choke (470μH) /0.5A (better than the original, which has only 0.3A)
- C022, C023 - 2 x capacitor 4.7μF / 400V 105 ° (low ESR, to last 5000 hours instead of 2000 as in the original)
- D029, D030 - 2 x 1N4007 diode
- D006 - 200 V zener diode (3EZ200), DZ006 in L1799, L2158, L2524
- RV07 - varistor fi 10mm (originally only 7mm)
The PWM controller may vary, but the rest of the parts are 99% likely to work.

Message SKORPION »29 Jan 2015 18:40

Message Rimon »29 Jan 2015 18:41

Message anisvalerij1961 »29 Jan 2015 18:45

Message SKORPION »29 Jan 2015 18:45

Message anisvalerij1961 »29 Jan 2015 18:56

Message Rimon »29 Jan 2015 19:15

Message anisvalerij1961 »29 Jan 2015 19:35

Message SKORPION »29 Jan 2015 19:39

Message anisvalerij1961 »29 Jan 2015 19:42

Message Polet-S »29 Jan 2015 19:46

Message SKORPION »29 Jan 2015 19:47

Message Polet-S »29 Jan 2015 19:57

Message SKORPION »29 Jan 2015 20:00

Today, in almost every apartment building, you can find a Whirlpool brand washing machine, and more than one. We have both assemblies common: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less often and are more expensive, but cars assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliances stores.

Perhaps it was the European assembly standards that helped the Whirlpool machines to establish themselves as machines of high quality and enviable durability. That is why repairs are rarely required, but if breakdowns do occur, then often the repair of Whirlpool washing machines (Whirlpool) can be done by hand.

If we list thoroughly all the possible breakdowns of the MCA, we will have to write a whole guide in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on the malfunctions typical of this brand.

We used data from reputable service centers to create valuable instructions for those looking to do DIY repairs on the Whirpool washing machine.

• After washing, the water is in the tub.
• Washing modes freeze, do not start at all, or programs are malfunctioning.
• All washing modes are carried out in cold water.
• SMA flows in the area of ​​the hatch.

Important! Behind these seemingly harmless malfunctions, serious breakdowns can be hidden. They need to be eliminated immediately so as not to break the CM completely.

Based on the problems described above, the most vulnerable spots of the Whirlpool washing machines can be identified. In many modern models, a self-diagnosis system is provided, which, using a malfunction code, will inform you about which part is out of order.

But what if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that would help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in the Whirlpool machine are:

1. Thermoelectric heater - heating element.
2. The engine and its moving parts.
3. Manhole cuff, branch pipes.
4. Controller (control module).

Attention! Whirlpool machines, like any other machine, "suffer" from blockages. Both filters and hoses are clogged. If cleaning is carried out in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), then it is possible to avoid breakdowns of the water drain and filling system.

You are probably familiar with the situation when you loaded the laundry into the tub, chose a convenient washing mode, went about your business to the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and then there was a disaster. The car is buggy: it is full of water and foam, the wash is not over, the laundry is wet.

You restart the program, but everything is in a circle - the wash program is not carried out because water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:

• Debris has accumulated in the water drain pipe or drain filter.
• Blockage in the drain hose or blockage in the drainage system.
• Breakdown of the drain electric pump (pump).

However, before you devote time to finding the causes of the failure, prepare your SMA for this:

1. Disconnect the power supply.
2. Drain the water remaining in the drum by hand. This can be done quickly using the emergency drain hose - it is usually located near the water drain filter.
3. Place a container or a rag on the floor and waste water will flow out.

Next, we remove the waste water filter:

• Place a rag or place a container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
• Unscrew the plug counterclockwise.
• Clean and flush the unit under the tap.
• Put everything in place.
• Twist the drain hose, clean and rinse it, reinstall it.

It does not hurt to check the drainage system for blockages.

To carry out all the steps, you do not need to know how to disassemble the Whirlpool washing machine - this is an easy job that any user can do.

If your actions did not help get rid of the problem, the drain system is clean, there is no blockage in the sewer, and the washer still does not drain the water from the tank, it will still have to be disassembled. The true cause of the breakdown may be hidden in the pump and drain pipe.

Important! Almost all Whirlpool models are designed in such a way that the pump and the pipe can only be reached from the bottom.We'll have to turn the car on its side.

How to find, check and clean the pump and the pipe:

1. Remove the detergent drawer.
2. Disconnect the machine from all systems: electricity, water supply, sewerage.
3. Turn the SMA over, placing it on the side wall.
   
4. Unscrew the screws and remove the bottom.
5. Equip yourself with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.
6. If you find a problem, change your pump.
   
7. If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed.
8. Loosen the clamps on the water drain pipe.
9. Remove the nipple.
   
10. Clean and rinse it.
11. Reinstall the nipple.

This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of load. The device of the Whirlpool top-loading washing machine is somewhat different than that of conventional SM, but the problem with it must be solved in the same way.

Often, after starting the washing machine, the control panel begins to behave inadequately: the display blinks, and with it all the LEDs flash. Also, the program you selected may not work.

If this is your case, then immediately turn off the CM, and wait 60 seconds. Then turn it on and, if the problem is not resolved, it is worth calling the wizard, since the control module is damaged, and repairing it yourself is almost impossible. You will need not only a diagram of the control module of the Whirlpool washing machine, but also experience in such a repair.

If the washing machine does not want to heat the water and does not wash the laundry well, then it is possible, without the help of special devices, to determine the breakdown and carry out an independent repair.

The most likely reason for this behavior is a breakdown of the thermistor (temperature sensor), but the heating element could also fail. Be that as it may, it is worth checking both elements together. Then proceed according to this simple scheme:

• Turn the machine so that the front wall is in front of you - this will make it easier to work.
• Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear panel.
• Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with working with the heater.
• You will not see the entire heating element right away - only its shank is visible under the tank, to which four wires go, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the temperature sensor.
  
• Remove all wires.
• Take a tester and measure the resistance of the temperature sensor contacts. Check the readings at room temperature, and then - heating the sensor in warm water, they should differ significantly if the sensor is working properly.
• Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal readings are 20-40 ohms.

With such a problem, the breakdown is likely to be confirmed, so you will have to replace the sensor (which is easier) or the heating element.

Important! If you do not have a tester at hand, immediately remove the heating element from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You will quickly identify the malfunction if the heating element is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone along it. If there is very little scale, then the heating element may not have burned out, and if the water stone is 1 cm or more thick, there is a breakdown.

With your own hands, you can easily change the heating element as follows:

1. The contacts and wires have already been removed, so then remove the plastic shield.
2. Unscrew the mount - it is in the center of the shank.
3. Gently pulling on the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heating element. The rubber pad will interfere, so be patient - there is nothing you can do about it.
4. Having taken out the heating element, remove the gasket.

Important! Mechanics recommend installing a new gasket together with a new heater, since leaks due to gasket wear are destructive for this important unit.

• In the hole where the heating element was, there is probably debris and scale, so carry out a general cleaning; only then can the gasket be installed.
• Install a new heating element, tighten the mount.
• Replace the plastic shield.
• Connect contacts to heater and sensor.
• Reposition the bracket, and finally refit the car panel.

When, in the washing or rinsing mode, water flows from under the door of the Whirlpool automatic washing machine, it starts imperceptibly - first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later the deluge begins altogether.

You do not need a diagram of the Whirlpool washing machine to find the cuff that is responsible for the breakdown. It is visible to the naked eye as well - it is a large rubber pad in your CM. It is located along the entire inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is to keep water out.

The most vulnerable point of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often remains there. If not tidied up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn seal to break it - then the leak cannot be avoided.

Important! Do not use a machine with a torn cuff - it will not be able to hold water. If a break is found, the cuff needs to be replaced URGENTLY.

If you are used to making repairs at home, then dismantle the old one and mount a new cuff.

1. Open the manhole cover as wide as possible.
2. Arm yourself with a slotted screwdriver and hook up the wire clamp - it is located over the collar.
3. After prying the collar, slide the screwdriver deeper under it and move it in a circle until you come across a connector with fasteners.
   
4. Loosen the clamp and remove it.
5. Take the seal with both hands and pull it out towards you.

For the attention of users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the hatch groove clearly to the millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.

1. Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.

Important! Do not use anything sharp so as not to break the seal - do everything ONLY with your hands.

1. Once the elastic is in place, quickly slide on the collar and tighten.
2. Check if the hatch closes and opens normally.
3. Start washing in test mode.
4. If it's dry under the typewriter, congratulations, you did it "perfectly"!

If water flows in a vertical type machine, then the reason may not be in the hatch at all - it is on top of it. You will most likely need to disassemble your Whirlpool top-loading washing machine to determine the cause of the leak.

There are a number of other reasons why the washing machine may leak:

• The pump is flowing.
• Depressurization of the tank - crack, hole, corrosion.
• The drain or water intake pipes are damaged.
• Depressurization of the water inlet branch pipe connection.
• Depressurization of the connections between the inlet valve and the powder cuvette.
• Oil seal wear.
• Blockage in the metering hopper.
• Tank drain tube worn.

Most of these breakdowns are simple and you can repair the leak yourself. The most important thing in this case is to correctly diagnose the problem. The trouble codes will help you with this.

The following error codes may light up on the display: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.

If you still have questions about repairing breakdowns of Whirlpool brand washing machines, read our other materials, in which we analyze in detail each individual malfunction.

In this article, we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be fixed without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on the Whirlpool washing machine, watch an additional special video:

Whirlpool refrigerators have gained worldwide fame. They are beautiful, functional and reliable. But any technique can have a latent defect that manifests itself during operation. In quantitative terms, Whirlpool refrigerators do not come in for repairs more often than others. Typical malfunctions are associated with freon leakage, electronic control and clogging of the condensate drainage system.

The main purpose of refrigerators is to create the required temperature in the refrigerator and freezer. If the temperature in the plus cabinet is such that the food freezes or is higher than the set one, it is necessary to find the reason. For this, all nodes participating in the process are checked:

• operation of the control unit;
• serviceability of the thermal sensor and thermal relay;
• tightness of the cooling circuit;
• compressor state - duration of switching cycles, extraneous noise;
• the presence and amount of isobutane in the system is established:
• the correct operation of the condensate drainage circuits.

All of these factors can cause a disturbance in the cold chamber operation.

The electronic control unit is the most vulnerable part in case of unstable voltage in the network. It is possible to find a malfunction in advance, if there is no reaction to the commands, error codes appear chaotically, the panel does not respond to the shutdown button.

A faulty temperature sensor will not give a signal to start the compressor or stop it at a given temperature. The cabinet heats up to room temperature or freezes. It depends on what position the compressor was in before the sensor failed.

The geared motor may not turn on if the starting relay is faulty or the motor is faulty. The unit may hum strongly when the compressor is jammed, but overheating, it will shut down.

Lack of freon will force the compressor to work non-stop, but there is not enough cold, the temperature rises. It also rises when the cold wall in the cabinet is covered with a snow coat - the condensate defrost system is faulty, the evaporator sensor or heater has failed. But the "fur coat", accompanied by the swelling of the cabinet walls, also indicates a refrigerant leak.

There are many reasons, even the incandescent bulb inside may not turn off, adding heat to the camera. By following the instructions, all user-dependent factors must be excluded. The diagnostics must be entrusted to a service center specialist.

The freezer is designed for long-term preservation of cold in autonomous mode. If it shows signs of defrosting, the circuit has been inactive for several hours. To find the cause, it is necessary to completely defrost the chamber and dry it. If after switching on the cold is not recruited, and the compressor is working, there is no freon in the system. A leak has occurred due to a leak in the circuit. Another reason for defrosting can be:

• failure of the electronic control module;
• sensor failure;
• compressor malfunction - insufficient gas compression.

If the cold builds up, the chamber freezes, you need to make sure that the condensate removal system is working correctly. There is no melting of frost, freezing of the evaporator begins, poor heat dissipation. A specialist will help you find the reason why the Whirlpool refrigerator does not produce enough cold for the freezer.

A typical malfunction of an overseas refrigerator is considered a failure of the defrosting system of a cold cabinet. At the same time, the No Frost system detects a malfunction with one of the following signs:

• the compressor works constantly, which means that there is no defrost interval, the walls of the chamber are frozen over;
• there is not enough cold in the plus section, drops of water flow down the back wall in the freezer;
• On the board there is an emergency signal and sound notification.

In the refrigerating chamber with a drip defrosting system, condensation does not come off, the hole is clogged. If the cause is not eliminated, ice will begin to freeze at the bottom of the chamber, the defrost system will become unusable. Sometimes the water does not come out because the drain tube is clogged or frozen over. The water will then flow downward, forming ice in the freezer.

A puddle that has formed under the refrigerator indicates a malfunction of the drainage system. The condensate is discharged through a rubber-sealed tube. It is directed to the chute mounted on the compressor. During operation, the power unit is hot, the liquid evaporates. But a crack in the tube may appear, the bowl may budge or bend over. All the water will be under the refrigerator.

You can correct the vessel yourself. It is necessary to correctly install the tubing using the cuff. In this case, you need to inspect the system for other damage. A wizard will be required if you were unable to eliminate the condensate leak.

Single compressor refrigerator with bottom freezer and electronic control. The temperature is maintained by a mechanical regulator. The green LED indicates that it is connected to the network. Red - temperature rise in the freezer.The orange LED is on when the freezer is set to hard freeze. Manual thermostats for cameras are located under the control panel cover.

Freon leakage is a typical malfunction of this model. The high pressure tubing is routed in the foam section between the chambers. When the drain from the refrigerator is clogged, water penetrates into the foam, the tube corrodes. As a result of the repair, the circuit is removed from the foamed part, the system is filled with isobutane (R600a).

Two-compartment refrigerator with one compressor and a 110 liter freezer. The body is made of stainless steel. The No Frost system is used in the freezer. Electromechanical control.

Typical malfunctions of the Whirlpool ARC 4190 ix refrigerator include:

• problems with the defrost and condensate removal system;
• failure of the evaporator heater or defrost timer;
• control board failure.

The refrigerator has one evaporator installed in the freezer. During defrosting, water flows into the drain located behind the decorative panel. If there is a problem with the removal of condensate, it is necessary to clean the hole and pipe.

There is snow in the freezer - you need to check if the heater is working when the compressor is resting. This cycle depends on the defrost sensor, which gives the command to turn on the heating element with a build-up on the evaporator tubes up to 0.5 cm thick. Sometimes defrosting and drying the refrigerator during the day will help eliminate leakage.

As a result of a power surge, moisture on the panel, the electronic control unit may fail. Therefore, you cannot put fresh flowers on the refrigerator - you can accidentally spill water.

Two-compartment refrigerator with a small freezer located on top. Refrigerant freon, electronic control. Both chambers use the No Frost defrost system.

Malfunctions that can occur during the operation of the refrigerator are reflected in the section of the instructions "Troubleshooting Guide". The developers advise first to independently check the reasons for the refusal using step-by-step instructions.

Electronic self-diagnosis of faults will help to draw attention to the problem. So, if the Whirlpool refrigerator beeps, this is a signal of a violation of the temperature regime inside the chamber, caused by a depressurization of the circuit. If the door is closed, the seal is not worn out, the abutment is good, the door opening sensor, condenser should be examined. They are located inside the control panel.

If the Whirlpool refrigerator does not work, malfunctions are possible in any node, but the most common cause is freon leakage, damage to the electronic unit and the failure of the Know Frost system.

Two-door two-compartment refrigerator with an overhead freezer and a Nou Frost defrost system. Electromechanical control system. Opening and incomplete closing of the door is accompanied by a sound signal.

The problem is if the regime is violated. This is due to various reasons. This model has a problem with starting the compressor. At the same time, attempts to turn on are accompanied by clicks of the relay. The cause may be a faulty starting relay or a burnt out motor winding. This is evidenced by the fact that at start-up, the compressor turns off without even having worked for 30 seconds.

Failure of the control module is a real reason for voltage drops in the network and work without a stabilizer. However, isobutane leaks or capillary tube clogging is possible.

All refrigerators with the Know Frost system have problems with defrosting and removing condensate. If there are remarks about the operation of the device, it is necessary to free the chambers from food, defrost, dry and try to start again. If the mode is not restored, contact the service center.

Single-compressor combined refrigerator, freezer below, installed No Frost system and electronic control with a display on the external panel. The model refers to those where self-diagnosis and maintenance of a constant mode "6th sense" is installed.The error codes are listed in the operating instructions, in the troubleshooting section of the Whirlpool ARC 8140 refrigerator. If you need to reset any of the errors, press the "OK" button and hold for at least 5 seconds.

Often the problems of this model are a malfunction of the control module, lack or lack of refrigerant. In the defrosting system, the heating element for defrosting the evaporator fails and the fan breaks down.

Having become acquainted with the listed models, the conclusion suggests itself - Whirlpool refrigerators have a prestigious appearance, good functionality, but the models are vulnerable when connected directly to the network. Their energy unit may break down, leaks in the refrigerant circuit may appear. With proper operation, Whirlpool household refrigerators serve for a long time. Troubleshooting is performed by the service center masters. Spare parts are expensive.

We suggest watching a video on the topic.