Zanussi zkt663lx DIY repair

After an hour and a half or two work in any mode, any burners all indications start blinking and relyushki crackle, then it works, sometimes a glitch passes in the process of work. It is worth turning it off and on, it will work normally for another hour and a half.

Naturally I checked all the contacts, looked carefully at the power board, changed the diode bridge, PWM, checked the capacitors using the device, everything is normal. It is very problematic to check the power supply at the time of the glitch, since it does not bug when disassembled, at least I did not wait. I need to collect it in a heap before checking.
Tell me, maybe experienced masters of kitchen appliances have encountered this ?? In principle, it would be enough to know if the problem is in the power supply or is the controller with the strapping screwing up like that ??
ps Relyushki everything is purely on the control of the burners.

Only network synchronization will be needed yet.

After standing for a year and a half, one of the burners stopped turning on (it is double, the outer circuit turns on and the inner one does not). I think the heating element is dead. Therefore, I have questions:

1. Does it make sense to repair this burner, or to spit and use the rest (which is sometimes inconvenient)?
2. How much can the repair cost?
3. Is it possible to fix it yourself by purchasing a heating element (if sold)?

Thanks in advance for your answers.

_MOLLO_ wrote:
I think the heating element is dead.

Unlikely. However, the autopsy will show.

_MOLLO_ wrote:
Does it make sense to repair this burner, or to spit and use the rest (which is sometimes inconvenient)?

_MOLLO_ wrote:
How much can the repair cost?

First, carry out a fault detection. Maybe there just disappeared contact. Because panel with electronic control, then I would first of all check the power relay (a defect in the contact group is likely). New costs 300 rubles.

Glass Ceramic Zanussi ZKT 621 LX (Solved)

The comforts did not work.
First 2, then 2 more.
It turned out to be cold soldering (non-contact) in the legs of the power relays common to two burners on the power board. The pads are too small to withstand the load.

Finally got around to see what's up

... An autopsy revealed that the heating element had burst. A crack went along the substrate into which the heater was inserted, along which it burst .
See pictures.

I ask further, in my case, change only the heater or the entire burner?

_MOLLO_ wrote:
I ask further, in my case, change only the heater or the entire burner?

it depends on how the electrolux / zanussi spare parts are lucky

PS
brushes for the SM Zanussi engine are not supplied
only the engine is assembled, I bought similar ones in an iceberg and skolkhozit

Message bun »10 Jul 2012 10:00

Message allur »10 Jul 2012 15:59

Message bun »10 Jul 2012 16:06

Message allur 11 Jul 2012 00:11

Message allur »11 Jul 2012 00:19

more

well, the downside

it is easy to notice the discrepancy between the numbers after 230T8 with the example given by you
since I don’t know what they mean, and I’m asking for help. I did not find my own article

Message bun »11 Jul 2012 15:16

Hob Zanussi zkt 663lx s o94370343 pnc 949 592 180 01, Error E9
Good day! Tell me where to drip They brought this beast to the repair with.

Hob Zanussi ZKT621LX pnc 949 591 342, Errors F2 F6
Zanussi ZKT621LX PNC 949 591 342 S-No. 34729867 Typ: PE E20 19 Errors.

Hob Zanussi ZKT 621 LN 949591553
Error Er 36, help that t doesn't work today Pro Corner

Hob ZANUSSI ZKT663L pnc no, EO error
They ask for a "sundress" to see and revive. When incl. device (FALCON panel).

Hob Zanussi ZKT663LX pnc 949592180, error E8
Good afternoon everyone! 4 days ago, they brought a panel with an E8 error, according to the words after.

Here! This is the root of all evil. We indicate the positional number of the part to be replaced, the person stops thinking with his head, but in such a seemingly simple situation, he is not able to find this chain. Continue to name replacement part numbers, gentlemen!

And to the author - start by replacing the dietary litas. It won't get any worse.

Here! This is the root of all evil.We indicate the positional number of the part to be replaced, the person stops thinking with his head, but in such a seemingly simple situation, he is not able to find this chain. Continue to name replacement part numbers, gentlemen!

And to the author - start by replacing the dietary litas. It won't get any worse.

power supply conductors I have already tried changing two conductors at 330 microfarads, it did not help there still eat at 4.2 microns, but these are there as filters and will not affect the power supply, I changed them despite the fact that the capacity was normal.

by the way, the power supplied to the relay coils surprised me a little - 6.2V, although judging by what is written on the reels, it should be 12v, but the fact is that, as I said, replacing the conduits did not help, and these 6.2v. come from the ulnka, and the power relay comes from transistors and there and there 6.2v. I even thought. which seems to be the way it should be though.

Now I re-checked the power supply of the relay before turning on the button. food 12.c. present as soon as I turn it on immediately drops to 7v. and on the reels of the burners 6.2c.

Well, this is the whole point, that with a half of the prescribed supply voltage, bounce is inevitable, look for where volts are lost
show the photo of the module

and how are 220v at the entrance to the feeding place?

Well, this is the whole point, that with a half of the prescribed supply voltage, bounce is inevitable, look for where volts are lost
show the photo of the module

and how are 220v at the entrance to the feeding place?

Well, what about 220v. everything is in order, they are as expected 220v.
The voltages come directly from the ULNK and two transistors, and a signal comes to them from the processor in turn, but I did not understand who forms that voltage, because in theory these transistors themselves and the ULNK, which is also an assembly of transistors, they amplify the signal, but the point is the fact that I changed these two transistors is really not the same, but from a similar place on another board I just do not have the opportunity to read the marking of the SMD components, in general, after replacing the transistors, it became 7v. , but still not 12. There were transistors with the designation 2434. and I put 5bw61

The Zanussi company is one of the leaders in the reliability and quality of the equipment produced, which is also distinguished by an affordable price. One of the branches of production of this Italian company is the production of electric stoves (including hobs and ovens). It's no secret that, like any other equipment, Zanussi ZKT 663 LX hobs periodically fail. The causes of breakdown can be a number of common causes, individually or in combination:

- the touch panel does not work,

- problems with the control module

Our company "Center-Service" for the repair of hobs Zanussi ZKT 663 LX will help you cope with the malfunction of your stove and again use your equipment with pleasure! Zanussi ZKT 663 LX hob repair technicians can be called by phone:

• Panel type - electric hob
• Installation - independent
• Dimensions (HxWxD) - 4.9 x 57.2 x 50.2 cm
• Built-in dimensions (WxD) - 56 x 49 cm

• Panel material - glass ceramics
• Total burners - 4
• Ceramic burners - 4
• Hi Light burners - 4
• Double-circuit burners - 1
• Oval cooking zone - 1

• Panel Location - Front
• Switches - touch
• Cooking zone timer - yes, with shutdown
• Panel lock button - yes

• Residual heat indicator - yes
• Safety shutdown - yes
• The color of the hob is black; frames - silver

Our experts will repair your Zanussi ZKT 663 LX hob efficiently and reliably on the day of your call.

It is possible that the problem you are experiencing is

insignificant and you can eliminate it

by yourself using the following instructions. Not

make no further attempts

repair the device if it cannot be eliminated

the problem using the information below.

Warning! Repairing the appliance may

produced by specialists only.

Unqualified repairs may

expose the owner of the appliance to substantial

danger. If necessary

make repairs contact

manufacturer authorized service

If a glass chip is found on

glass-ceramic panel, please inform

service center a three-digit code that

is on a glass plate.

are the fuses of the home

electrical wiring (electrical cabinet). If

the fuses have already blown several times,

call a qualified electrician.

the machine is turned on correctly.

Are the control lamps on the panel lit?

the relevant cooking zone is switched on,

Are the heating zones set to the required level?

has the safety system tripped

deactivating heating zones (see chapter “Technical

... the cooking zones are not switched on?

does not pass between the activation of the On /

Off and the inclusion of the corresponding zone

heating time for more than 10 seconds (see chapter

Are certain areas of the sensor fields covered?

damp cloth or liquid.

... there was an unexpected output on

residual heat symbol display h?

the On / Off button has not been activated by mistake.

Are certain areas of the sensor fields covered?

damp cloth, liquid, etc.

is the safety system activated?

... after switching off the heating zones for

indicator does not appear on the display

was the heating zone operating time too

short for a sufficient temperature rise.

If the cooking zone is hot, please contact

... the cooking zone does not switch off?

Are some parts of the touch areas covered?

damp cloth or liquid.

whether the blocking system is enabled.

... the cooking zone does not turn on?

whether child blocking is enabled.

whether blocking is in effect.

Check if the work area is overheated.

This indicator glows when overheating, malfunctioning

electronics or for technical reasons

... the device does not respond to activation

The device does not respond to activation of the sensor

fields, if at the same time you touch another

sensory field not intended for

If you use the services of the service center

without sufficient reason, then for the visit of the technician

service center can be charged even at

At home or at a service center
departure of the master on the day of treatment
repair warranty up to 12 months

• Departure and diagnostics of the master (in case of repair)

• Departure and diagnostics (in case of refusal to repair)

The specialist arrives at a convenient time for you. Possible urgent call and arrival of the master in 60 minutes

No overpayments and "hidden" payments - in 90% of cases you will find out the cost of repairs by phone

Discounts for seniors and people with disabilities 5% -10%

We have a quality control department. Consultations are available to you on the toll-free line +7 (800) 700-73-70

Departure of a specialist is possible at any address in the city, in districts and dachas and the nearest settlements

During our work, it has already been completed over 150 thousand applications.
Daily we process about 300 requests

Electronic module for Zanussi cooker ZKT663LX 14A 949591237-00

This electronic module fits Zanussi ZKT663LX 14A 949591237-00

Prompt departure of the master to any point in Moscow within 20 minutes after the call.

Working with official dealers, we have competitive prices.

We work only with original spare parts.

We provide a guarantee for all types of work.

Repair of the Zanussi ZKT 663 LN hob in our service is a convenient service for those who do not want to waste time looking for workshops, wait for a call about the results of diagnostics, disconnect and reconnect the device in the kitchen. We propose to take advantage of the onsite service:

• you just need to make a phone call to call the master at home;
• all work is carried out in front of your eyes;
• you will immediately recognize the diagnostic results;
• The cost of repairing the ZANUSSI hob is announced immediately after the diagnosis.

We are ready to eliminate all problems and breakdowns that arise in the hobs of the Zanussi brand - replace the broken upper part, adjust the operation of the burners or install new burners, restore the regulators.

If you attach importance to the comfort and serviceability of your kitchen appliances, then you will certainly notice that it is not working properly or malfunctioning. The Zanussi hob is characterized by the following breakdowns:

• burners do not work or do not heat well;
• regulators turn tight;
• does not show the temperature sensor, the heating indicator is off;
• broken glass, crack on the surface;
• part of the case from the edge of the panel burned out.

All these and many other problems are eliminated by the masters of our service during one visit - you just need to make a phone call for a ZANUSSI hob repair specialist to come on call at home.

The service center provides guarantees of the quality of the work of the master and the serviceability of new parts installed on the product. you will not have to worry about faults and the panel and endanger yourself and your loved ones if the equipment is in good working order, adjusted and correctly installed after repair.

2. Remove the cover from the top of the machine

We remove the metal protective strip, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.

This will allow us to remove the back iron cover and gain access to the drum and motor.

We disconnect the chips from the motor and be sure to sign each one so that we do not confuse the contacts later.

We remove the drum from the hanging springs. Further, in order to get to the bearing, you will need to remove the shaft (motor drive), which is unscrewed with a head with an asterisk. The shaft sits very tightly, so you have to make some effort to remove it.

Next, we remove the tank and knock it out of the bearing using a chisel.

So we got to the most important thing - the inner bearing and the oil seal, which most often deteriorate in washing machines. They are changed as a set. The cost of one oil seal is approximately $ 1. Bearings are slightly more expensive at $ 2 apiece.

When knocking out a bearing, be sure to use a metal washer. The outer bearing is knocked out from the inside.
Thank you for preparing the material for the following video:

At home or at a service center
departure of the master on the day of treatment
repair warranty up to 12 months

• Departure and diagnostics of the master (in case of repair)

• Departure and diagnostics (in case of refusal to repair)

The specialist arrives at a convenient time for you. Possible urgent call and arrival of the master in 60 minutes

No overpayments and "hidden" payments - in 90% of cases you will find out the cost of repairs by phone

Discounts for seniors and people with disabilities 5% -10%

We have a quality control department. Consultations are available to you on the toll-free line +7 (800) 700-73-70

Departure of a specialist is possible at any address in the city, in districts and dachas and the nearest settlements

During our work, it has already been completed over 150 thousand applications.
Daily we process about 300 requests

Do you like automatic washing - love to fix the machine too! This is how any owner of a washing machine could paraphrase the well-known proverb.

Units of the Zanussi brand are no exception. Although there is little to complain about the quality of these machines, they sometimes give an unpleasant surprise. So, Zanussi is a washing machine: do-it-yourself malfunctions and repairs.

But such malfunctions occur relatively rarely. In most cases, the failures of Zanussi machines are due to very commonplace reasons, which the owner himself can cope with.

We list the weak points of these units:

1. Dependence on water quality: this feature, I must say, is typical for all washing machines. The hardness salts present in the water at high temperatures are intensively deposited on the heating element in the form of scale, and dirt and rust clog the filters, as a result of which the collection of fresh water and the removal of waste water slows down or completely stops.
2. Poorly thought-out design of the locking device on the hatch: in Zanussi cars, this mechanism, as well as its sensor, are clearly incomplete and fail very often.
3. TEN: some experts believe that the heater in these machines is particularly susceptible to lime scale formation due to poor choice of tube material.
4. Drive belt: another relatively unreliable element. Zanussi owners should check the condition of the belt at least once every 4 years, carrying out a tightening or replacement if necessary.

Now let's look at the typical symptoms that manifest themselves in certain malfunctions.

If at the same time it is clearly audible that the engine is running, then the matter is most likely in the drive belt. To inspect it, you need to remove the back panel of the machine body by unscrewing the screws that fix it.

Next, we act according to the situation:

1. If the belt has slipped off one of the pulleys, it must be reinstalled.
2. If there is a break in the belt, you need to purchase and install a new one.
3. If the belt is intact and in place, but does not transmit rotation due to slippage, then it has exhausted its resource and must also be replaced.

If, during inspection, you find that the electric motor pulley does not rotate, then there is a more serious breakdown and you need to contact the service center.

If the bollard is jammed, the hatch can be opened using the emergency cable by pulling it towards you. You can find it behind the bottom panel (you need to unscrew it), to the right, near the filter. The cause of the malfunction lies in the electronics, so you will have to contact a workshop.

The latches that hold the hatch closed are made of fragile plastic, so they often break.

To make sure that this is exactly the case, the lock must be disassembled:

• after opening the hatch, unscrew the two screws with which the lock is screwed to the body;
• remove the hatch seal (cuff), having previously removed the clamp holding it (you need to pry it off with a screwdriver);
• after removing the cuff, the lock can be pulled out.

If the plastic parts of the mechanism are indeed broken, a new lock must be purchased and reinstalled.

To make the lock last longer, close the hatch as gently as possible.

The situation when, simultaneously with the collection of water, it is discharged through the drain hose (before the drum begins to rotate) may be due to the low location of this hose. Its free end should be raised by 50 - 70 cm.

Self-draining will also take place if the drain pipe is damaged, only in this case the water will flow not from the hose, but from under the machine.

More serious reasons are faults in the control module or level sensor that mistakenly turn on the drain pump.

We are looking for the cause of the malfunction:

1. First you need to make sure that the water is not turned off.
2. Next, you need to check the throughput of the filling hose by disconnecting it from the machine and turning on the water supply.
3. If the water flows through the hose properly, put it back in place and check the condition of the filter. Together with the priming valve, it is located where the hose enters the unit housing. After removing the top cover, the assembly (valve + filter) must be unscrewed, after which the filter can be disassembled and cleaned.

Cleaning the filters, both inlet and outlet, must be performed regularly, without waiting for problems.

If the water supply has not resumed, it is necessary to check the operation of the priming valve. The resistance of its winding should be 3.75 kOhm, and when the voltage indicated on the case is applied to the contacts, the device should open. The defective valve must be replaced.

This problem can also signal a breakdown of the level sensor or clogging of its tube.

In many cases, the owner of the washing machine can repair it themselves. Do-it-yourself Bosch washing machine repair - an overview of the main types of breakdowns and methods for their elimination.

What criteria should be considered when choosing a shower stall, read in this topic.

Breakdown of the heating element, wear of the bearing, failure of the control unit - these types of malfunctions in washing machines are the most common.Here https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/stiralnaya-mashina-indezit-neispravnosti-remont-svoimi-rukami.html you will learn how to fix it yourself breakdowns of cars Indesit.

The first step in such a situation is to check the serviceability of the engine and the integrity of the power supply circuit.

It will be difficult to do this without sufficient experience, so it is better to contact the service center.

Here, if necessary, they will check the correct operation of the control module circuit - perhaps it is it giving the device incorrect commands.

Most often, the cause of such failures is the breakdown of the heating element - due to natural wear and tear or due to fouling with scale. Follow these steps:

1. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the back panel of the case.
2. Check the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter (its shank with the wires connected to it protrudes from the tank in its lower part). At room temperature, the meter should read 30 ohms.
3. If the resistance is different from normal, the heating element must be replaced. The wires are disconnected from it, and then the nut located between the contacts is unscrewed. The heater can then be pulled out. This should be done with care, gently rocking the element and not applying excessive force. If the heating element is stuck and does not give in, you need to soften the scale with WD-40 liquid. After dismantling the heater, its seat must be cleaned, after which it will be possible to install a replacement. The new heating element must correspond to the given model of the washing machine. Heating element from another model can burn out, moreover, together with the control module.
4. If the resistance measurement showed that the heating element is working properly, you need to check the condition of the temperature sensor. Its performance is also verified by measuring the resistance. At room temperature, it should be 5.7 - 6.3 kΩ.

The reason may lie in the "sticking" of the contacts of the heating element relay located near the control module.

If water is found under the washing machine, the following items should be checked:

1. Gasket at the connection of the filling hose. If excessive wear occurs, it must be replaced.
2. Hatch seal. Over time, this element can deform or crack. To dismantle a worn cuff, it is necessary to remove the clamp holding it. It fits snugly enough, but if you pry it off with a screwdriver, it comes off quite easily.
3. Drain connection or where the drain hose is attached to the pump. If there is damage in this area, water will start to seep out at the same time as filling the machine. A damaged part - hose, pipe or pump - must be replaced.
4. Tank of the car. Leaks can be caused by its depressurization.

In the latter case, you will need specialized equipment for repairs, so you will have to contact the service center.

The machine itself informs the user of some breakdowns by displaying a special alphanumeric sequence on the display - an error code. Here are some of them:

1. E11 - insufficient water supply during washing. As already mentioned, you need to check the water inlet path, filter and valve.
2. E13 - there is a water leak into the sump.
3. E21 - problems with water drainage. Most likely, you need to clean the drain filter. Together with clothes, sand, seed husks and other small debris, buttons, pins and other small objects can get into the machine, therefore it is recommended to clean the drain filter after every 3 washes. If this measure did not give a positive result, it is necessary to check the operation of the pump. Its winding resistance should be approximately 170 ohms.
4. Codes E23 and E24 speak of a malfunction of the drain pump control semiconductor in the control module.
5. E35 - the water level in the tank has exceeded the permissible threshold. Most likely, the reason is a breakdown of the level sensor or a clogged tube.
6. E41 - E45 means a malfunction of the hatch lock or its blocking elements.

A washing machine breakdown is not such a rarity. Some brands of units have their weak points.Washing machine Kandy - DIY repair of basic faults, read on.

We will analyze the types of mixer taps and the features of their device in this material.

Loud noise when the drum rotates at high rpm may be due to the following reasons:

1. The position of the machine is not strictly horizontal.
2. The drum is underloaded, as a result of which the center of gravity of the laundry has deviated from the center of rotation (strong vibrations will occur at high speeds).
3. One of the bearings is broken.

Bearings in Zanussi machines can be replaced by yourself. This is done like this:

1. Having completely disassembled the machine, you need to remove the tank with the drum.
2. After removing the drum pulley and unscrewing a few bolts around the perimeter of the tank, the latter must be disassembled into two parts.
3. With careful hammer blows through a wooden lining, you need to knock the drum half shaft out of the bearing assembly in the rear half of the tank.
4. Next, using a puller, the bearing itself should be removed along with the oil seal.
5. The drum axle shaft and bearing seat must be thoroughly cleaned.
6. In place of the old bearing, a new one is installed, while its oil seal is stuffed with special grease.

Having lubricated the axle shaft and the inner ring of the bearing, the drum and the rear part of the tank are again assembled into a single unit, after which both halves of the tank are fastened, having smeared the junction with a sealant.

In some models of Zanussi washing machines, the bearing assembly - the so-called caliper - is unscrewed.

After removing the drive belt, you need to dismantle the drum pulley (it is held by a screw). Next, you need to disconnect the grounding plate and unscrew the caliper by turning it to the right.

The caliper on the side opposite to the pulley (in machines with top loading) is unscrewed in the opposite direction. The direction of rotation at each node is indicated by arrows labeled “Open” and “Close”. After installing a new caliper, the unit is assembled in the reverse order.

To keep the screw holding the pulley securely, the threads should be coated with Loctite before screwing in.