Zanussi zws 6107 DIY repair

Details: zanussi zws 6107 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

2. Remove the cover from the top of the machine

We remove the metal protective strip, which is fixed with self-tapping screws.

This will allow us to remove the back iron cover and gain access to the drum and motor.

We disconnect the chips from the motor and be sure to sign each one so that we do not confuse the contacts later.

We remove the drum from the hanging springs. Further, in order to get to the bearing, you will need to remove the shaft (motor drive), which is unscrewed with a head with an asterisk. The shaft sits very tightly, so you have to make some effort to remove it.

Next, we remove the tank and knock it out of the bearing using a chisel.

So we got to the most important thing - the inner bearing and the oil seal, which most often deteriorate in washing machines. They are changed as a set. The cost of one oil seal is about $ 1. Bearings are slightly more expensive at $ 2 apiece.

When knocking out a bearing, be sure to use a metal washer. The outer bearing is knocked out from the inside.
Thank you for preparing the material for the following video:

Repair of washing machines Zanussi (Zanussi) is a frequent occurrence. Despite the fact that these cars come off the assembly line under the sign of a foreign brand, they can also break. And often the manufacturer is not at all involved in the fact that the machine broke down too early.

External factors and improper operation are the most likely reasons for the failure of the SM.

Using the statistics of service centers, you can quickly understand which nodes and parts in the device of the Zanussi washing machine are the most vulnerable

Video (click to play).

The dependence of parts on water quality. By the way, this is typical not only for the Zanussi brand, but also for other machines. Water oversaturated with salts with strong heating is deposited with scale on the heater and other elements.
The purity of the water in our water supply systems also does not differ, so the filter systems of the machine can become clogged with dirt and rust over time. As a result, the typesetting and drainage system suffers.
Hatch lock. This is already the fault of the manufacturers: both the blocker and the sensor are slightly underdeveloped, therefore they break more often than other brands of SMA.
The heater (heating element) quickly builds up with scale. Experts believe that this is also due to the fact that manufacturers miscalculated in the selection of components from which the tubular part of the heater is made.
Drive belt. It does not differ in reliability, so every 3 months it does not hurt to check its tension and integrity. If you see signs of stretching or damage to the belt, a tightening or replacement of the knot is required.

The only good thing is that it is possible to determine the malfunction on time, since the "smart" automatic washing machine Zanussi notifies the user of problems using fault codes.

Usually a Zanussi washing machine gives out the following error codes: E11, E12, E21, E22. Let's consider the most common combinations.

Water does not leave the system - cleaning of the drain filter and checking the nozzles for blockages is required.

It is also necessary to check the performance of the pump impeller - it should rotate freely in both directions. If the stroke is difficult, the pump needs to be replaced.

Complex breakdowns should be entrusted to a professional, but easy repairs to Zanussi washing machines can be easily done by yourself.

Next, we will look at how to repair a Zanussi washing machine with your own hands.

All filtration systems need to be cleaned periodically. If you neglect this rule, then later problems cannot be avoided. If there is a blockage in any of the filters, then there are problems with the intake or drainage of water.

In SM Zanussi, it is the filler filter that is most often clogged.What to do to normalize the work of the typewriter?

Just unscrew the inlet filter - it is located on the water pipe.
If you have not installed such a filter, then you need to clean the filter mesh.

Attention! Experts advise placing the inlet filter on a pipe with a special filter cassette that softens the water.

To clean the filter mesh, proceed as follows:

Find the junction of the water intake hose with the washer body.
Remove the top cover of the CM to unscrew the valve and filter.
Disassemble the filter and rinse it under the tap.
Replace the filter.
Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Important! The device of the Zanussi horizontal loading washing machine is different from the front design, but the filter is cleaned in the same way.

By the way, pollution can accumulate not only because of the "errors" of the water supply system, but also because of the clothes that you send to the drum. From too dirty things, sand, dirt, debris, threads penetrate into the machine systems.

Craftsmen often find small coins, seeds, hairpins, crumpled checks in the drain filter. All this "nonsense" can provoke a stop in the work of the AGR.

Important! Remember to clean the filter at least every 3 months.

The problem with the UBL is a frequent malfunction of the Zanussi Aquacycle CM, but it also occurs in other models: for example, the Zanussi Easyiron.

It is difficult to tell right away why the blocker breaks down - through the fault of the manufacturer or user negligence. But there may be problems with the control board - then the blocker has nothing to do with it.

The plastic components of the sunroof locking device are unreliable and can break even if you simply slam the hatch shut with force. In this case, the metal hook will survive, but due to the breakdown of the UBL, washing will still be impossible.

The blocker is usually not repaired - it is easier to replace it with a new one. For Zanussi UBL typewriters costs about 1,500 rubles. It's a little expensive, of course, so first you should remove the old blocker to make sure it is 100% broken.

Remove the device according to the following scheme:

Open the door.
On the right you will see a small hole for the locking hook, and next to it there are two screws that hold the UBL. Unscrew the fasteners.
Remove the gasket (lip). It is held in place by a wire tie that runs in a circle along the entire elastic. Pick it up with a thin screwdriver and remove. Then remove the cuff - do it by hand, without tools, so as not to damage the delicate elastic band.
Remove the blocker by disconnecting the wires.
Carry out a visual inspection of the device and make sure that the plastic part is intact. If the plastic is broken, and the records popped out, take the device with you and go for a new one.
Show UBL in the store to sell you exactly the same.
Install the bollard in reverse order.

Important! Close the door gently until it clicks, pressing down on the edge to extend the life of the device.

As we said above, the heating element is one of the most vulnerable places of any washing machine, especially Zanussi. The washing machine with such a breakdown may give an error E05, while the water in the tank stops heating.

To make repairs yourself, you will have to disassemble the SM case a little:

Turn the machine with the front wall towards you.
Unscrew the screws from the panel to remove it.
From the bottom of the tank you will see the heater shank - it has 2 contacts and wires coming from them.
Measure the resistance with a tester. If the device shows a value close to zero, the heating element will have to be changed. The readings of a working heater will be 20-40 ohms.
To remove the heating element, unscrew the nut located in the center of the shank.
Disconnect the wiring to the heater.
Make an effort to get the heating element out of the groove. If there is a lot of plaque on it, then it could get stuck. Take WD-40 grease and lightly spray on the crevices. Loosen the old heating element and pull it towards you.
Clean the hole well.
Install a new heater, connect the wiring.
Reattach the back panel and run a test wash. If the water heats up, and the E05 code is gone, then you did everything right.

Important! When choosing heating elements for the Zanussi washing machine, buy only original parts. Don't go for cheap Chinese counterparts - they won't last you long. An unsuitable heating element can also provoke a breakdown of the control unit, and then the repair will definitely "fly into a penny."

Damage caused by the drive belt is accompanied by the fact that the motor in the washing machine does not stop working, but the drum does not rotate. To check the integrity and location of the belt, proceed as follows:

Remove the back cover by unscrewing the fasteners.
In the niche you will see the drum pulley on which the belt should be put on. The motor pulley is much smaller and must also have a belt on it.
Correct the belt if it has shifted.
If the drum does not rotate and the belt is in place, then a replacement is needed.
After adjusting or installing a new belt, refit the panel and run a test wash.

As you can see, the repair of Zanussi washing machines consists in eliminating typical failures and breakdowns. Fortunately, these malfunctions are such that you can easily eliminate them without the help of a wizard.

We only advise you not to touch the electronics. Even if you have a Zanussi washing machine circuit, in order to repair or replace an electronic module, you need special tools and relevant knowledge and experience. Do not want to provoke additional breakdowns - trust the master for complex problems.

This video may help you:

Almost any repair of a Zanussi washing machine is associated with its disassembly, because the vast majority of parts are hidden inside the case. It is clear that complete disassembly is not always required, often it is enough just to remove the top cover or the back wall and, behold, the broken part is already in front of your eyes. But what if you need to repair the cross or bearings, or even worse, you need to change the tank? In such cases, repairs can only be made by completely disassembling the Zanussi washing machine. How to do this, let's figure it out!

We will not "beat around the bush", but immediately start preparing, because you will not be able to disassemble a Zanussi washing machine with a 5 kg drum load. First, we need to collect all the necessary tools. This shouldn't be a problem. It is good enough to rummage in the garage, dig in the pantry, and everything you need is found:

a set of screwdrivers (you can use a screwdriver with a set of heads of various configurations);
a set of keys (you will need various keys, including ring keys);
a knob with a set of heads (mainly 7 and 8 mm);
pliers (large and small);
small round nose pliers;
bearing puller;
ticks;
liquid WD-40;
hammer;
awl;
markers of several colors.

As you can see, the tool is simple, you can get it all without difficulty, so further discussion of this issue is meaningless. The only thing I would like to note is that you should only use high-quality tools. Unscrewing the fasteners with Chinese keys, you most likely rip off their edges and then add some work to yourself. If there are no normal keys, ask your neighbor for the time of repair or buy Soviet keys from rags - you will not regret it.

It would seem that it is easier to get into the body of the Zanussi washing machine and see what is there, to study, so to speak, its device in practice. But it was not there. The body of old washing machines of this brand is disassembled quite cunningly.

The top cover can be removed without any problems, we take a knob with an 8 mm head, unscrew two bolts, grab the cover, slide it towards ourselves a little, and then up - nothing special. But the same cannot be said about the removal of the rear wall of the Zanussi car. The body of the Zanussi washing machine has one serious feature - it does not have removable side walls. What does it mean?

For washing machines of most brands, the body structure assumes the presence of five or six elements:

top cover;
bottom;
back wall;
front wall;
left side wall;
right side wall.

For your information! Some models of washing machines do not have a tray or a cover that covers the bottom of the body.

The device of the Zanussi washing machine is unusual in that the body of this "home assistant" (except for the top and bottom) is disassembled into two large halves:

front wall, half of the left wall and half of the right wall of the body;
back wall, half of the left wall and half of the right wall of the case.

To get to most of the necessary parts, such as the engine, drive belt, drain pipe, we need to completely remove the rear half of the housing. How to do it?

To move the back of the case back faster, rock it from side to side.

By removing the back of the Zanussi washer, we made it much easier for ourselves to extract its main components. Now we will be able to unscrew and pull out a lot for the production of repairs, and nothing will stop us. What details have you got free access to?

Drum pulley and drive belt.
Rear counterweight.
Washing machine engine.
Anti-vibration stands.
Heating element (ten).
Temperature sensor.
Inlet valve with branch pipes.
Drain pipe and pump.
Two pressure switches.
Noise filter.
Sprinkler pump (serves for forced injection of water into the tank during washing).

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We begin the next stage of disassembling the Zanussi washing machine by removing the wires from the heating element (it is located under the drum pulley), the engine, and pulling out the thermal sensor from the tank. Next, remove the wires from the pressure switches. They are located on the top left of the machine body and on the pump, which is on the bottom left. Remove the wire from the intake valve. After that, we will do a very useful thing, unscrew the rear counterweight, so that later it would be easier for us to pull the washing machine during repairs. It is held in place by 4 bolts.

Attention! All wires you remove must be marked with multi-colored markers and paper tags, so that later nothing is confused. After all, the device of the electrician of the Zanussi washing machine may seem complicated to a beginner.

Remove the drive belt. With one hand we hold the belt, and with the other we rotate the drum pulley. The belt will come off easily. We remove the clamps from the pipes and pull them off. We take a knob with an 8 mm head and unscrew the two bolts that hold the Zanussi washing machine in front, and then unscrew two more screws at the back. Having unscrewed the fasteners, we hold the engine from below with one hand, and with the other we lightly beat on its pulley - the motor will be removed.

Now we take out the heating element. We unscrew the nut between its contacts. We lightly press on it, and then we take the ten by the contacts and very gently, swinging it to the sides, we begin to pull towards ourselves. Here it is important not to break off one of the contacts, otherwise you will have to change the heating element.

Next, remove the racks. On the one hand, they are held on a kind of plastic rods, and on the other, on a regular screw. To remove the stem, you need to take a 14 mm head, put your hand behind the stem and put the head on its latch. After that, you need to grab the front of the stem with pliers and pull towards yourself, holding the tank - the fasteners will pop out. We unscrew the rack from below and remove it to the side. We do the same with the second ward.

We take out the pressure switches from the grooves, remove the clamps from the filling pipes and remove them together with the filling valve. We unscrew the watering pump, disconnect the hose from it. Now let's look into the car body from the top. On the upper wall of the tank we see a small breather pipe, we carefully pull it out. What's next?

We go in front. We open the hatch of the Zanussi washing machine. We take with our hand the upper part of the rubber cuff of the hatch and slightly pull it towards ourselves.
Then we pry the plastic clamp with a flat screwdriver and draw it in a circle until we find the latch. Disconnect the latch and remove the clamp.
Since we have a Zanussi washing machine with irrigation and a large load, it means that in the upper part of the cuff there is an inlet to which the irrigation branch is connected. Again, we take the upper part of the cuff and pull it towards ourselves.
We remove the clamps and the branch pipe from the branch pipe.

Next, go around the back of the car again and unscrew the noise filter. Now in the body there is only a tank with a drum, suspended on two springs, a control panel in front, a trash filter, UBL and a manhole cover. The hatch blocking device and the hatch itself are easy to remove, you can read about this in a special article, so we will not dwell on this in more detail. Anyone can also unscrew the trash filter, but difficulties may arise with the control panel.

How is the control panel removed? We go around the washing machine in front, take out the powder receptacle from the niche. We unscrew the screws behind the tray. Unscrew two more screws from above the panel. Next, slightly pry the control panel with a flat screwdriver and remove it.

Be extremely careful, the bundle of wires fits to the control panel; they must not be torn off.

Having removed everything that is possible, and studied, during the disassembly, the device of the Zanussi washing machine, we left the body of the washing machine with a tank and a drum suspended on two springs. If we want a complete disassembly, we need to remove the tank from the springs, and then disassemble it into parts.

With the help of a friend, we remove the tank from the springs and take it out of the body of the washing machine. It is very easy to do this together, but alone you can tear the navel. Unscrew the front counterweight and remove it. We put the tank with the hatch down on a flat surface so that we have full access to the drum pulley. Next, we perform the following actions.

We block the pulley so that it does not rotate. This can be done in any convenient way, for example, as shown in the picture.
Take a hex screwdriver and try to unscrew the bolt that is in the center of the pulley. If it does not work, you can grease the bolt, then wait a little and try again. When unscrewing the bolt, be careful not to rip off the hex.
We grasp the drum pulley with our hands and, swinging it from side to side, pull it up.
Having removed the pulley, we need to disassemble the tank body into two parts.

For your information! The two halves of the tank body of the Zanussi washing machine are tightened with long screws, so its tank is considered collapsible.

We take the knob and the head by 8 mm and one by one we unscrew all the screws holding the two halves of the tank together. Once you unscrew the screws, the tank will be disassembled.

We easily managed to remove the front part of the tank, but the rear part is still securely fastened to the drum through bearings, which in turn are mounted on the shaft. They must be removed together with the tank. We take an old unnecessary screw that fits into the thread of the shaft (from where we unscrewed the bolt holding the pulley) and screw it in there. Next, we substitute a wooden block and apply light blows to the screw with a hammer until the back of the tank comes off the bearing.

As a result, the rear part of the tank remained to the side, and we have a drum in the back, which has a crosspiece and a shaft. It is equipped with a bearing and an oil seal. The hardest part follows.

We hammer the grips of the puller under the bearing.
We create tension by gradually tightening the thread of the puller.
We generously fill the bearing with WD-40 grease.
We are waiting for 30-40 minutes.
Slowly unscrew the thread further and remove the bearing, and then the oil seal.

Summing up, we note that the device of a Zanussi brand washing machine does not seem so complicated to be trusted by a master to disassemble it. You can disassemble such a washing machine yourself, if you carefully study the instructions given in this article. The device of Zanussi machines may differ slightly depending on the model, but these differences are insignificant. Some car models, drum loading a little more for some model, no injection, and the like. All this will not hurt you to study the instructions, and disassemble your first Zanussi machine "by screw". Good luck!

Do you like automatic washing - love to fix the machine too! This is how any owner of a washing machine could paraphrase the well-known proverb.Units of the Zanussi brand are no exception. Although there is little to complain about the quality of these machines, they sometimes give an unpleasant surprise. So, Zanussi is a washing machine: do-it-yourself malfunctions and repairs.But such malfunctions occur relatively rarely. In most cases, the failures of Zanussi machines are due to very commonplace reasons, which the owner himself can cope with.We list the weak points of these units:

Dependence on water quality: this feature, I must say, is typical for all washing machines. The hardness salts present in the water at high temperatures are intensively deposited on the heating element in the form of scale, and dirt and rust clog the filters, as a result of which the collection of fresh water and the removal of waste water slows down or completely stops.

Poorly thought-out design of the locking device on the hatch: in Zanussi cars, this mechanism, as well as its sensor, are clearly incomplete and fail very often.

TEN: some experts believe that the heater in these machines is particularly susceptible to lime scale formation due to poor choice of tube material.

Drive belt: another relatively unreliable element. Zanussi owners should check the condition of the belt at least once every 4 years, carrying out a tightening or replacement if necessary.

Now let's look at the typical symptoms that manifest themselves in certain malfunctions.If at the same time it is clearly audible that the engine is running, then the matter is most likely in the drive belt. To inspect it, you need to remove the back panel of the machine body by unscrewing the screws that fix it. Image - Zanussi zws 6107 DIY repair

Next, we act according to the situation:

If the belt has slipped off one of the pulleys, it must be reinstalled.
If there is a break in the belt, you need to purchase and install a new one.
If the belt is intact and in place, but does not transmit rotation due to slippage, then it has exhausted its resource and must also be replaced.

If, upon inspection, you find that the electric motor pulley does not rotate, then there is a more serious breakdown and you need to contact the service center.

If the bollard is jammed, the hatch can be opened using the emergency cable by pulling it towards you. You can find it behind the bottom panel (you need to unscrew it), to the right, near the filter. The cause of the malfunction lies in the electronics, so you will have to contact a workshop.

The latches that hold the hatch closed are made of fragile plastic, so they often break.

To make sure that this is exactly the case, the lock must be disassembled:

after opening the hatch, unscrew the two screws with which the lock is screwed to the body;
remove the hatch seal (cuff), having previously removed the clamp holding it (you need to pry it off with a screwdriver);
after removing the cuff, the lock can be pulled out.

If the plastic parts of the mechanism are indeed broken, a new lock must be purchased and reinstalled.

To make the lock last longer, close the hatch as gently as possible.

The situation when, simultaneously with the collection of water, it is discharged through the drain hose (before the drum begins to rotate) may be due to the low location of this hose. Its free end should be raised by 50 - 70 cm.

Self-draining will also take place if the drain pipe is damaged, only in this case the water will flow not from the hose, but from under the machine.

More serious reasons are faults in the control module or level sensor that mistakenly turn on the drain pump.

We are looking for the cause of the malfunction:

First you need to make sure that the water is not turned off.
Next, you need to check the throughput of the filling hose by disconnecting it from the machine and turning on the water supply.
If the water flows through the hose properly, put it back in place and check the condition of the filter. Together with the priming valve, it is located where the hose enters the unit housing.After removing the top cover, the assembly (valve + filter) must be unscrewed, after which the filter can be disassembled and cleaned.

Cleaning the filters, both inlet and outlet, must be performed regularly, without waiting for problems.

If the water supply has not resumed, it is necessary to check the operation of the priming valve. The resistance of its winding should be 3.75 kOhm, and when the voltage indicated on the case is applied to the contacts, the device should open. The defective valve must be replaced.

This problem can also signal a breakdown of the level sensor or clogging of its tube.

In many cases, the owner of the washing machine can repair it himself. Do-it-yourself Bosch washing machine repair - an overview of the main types of breakdowns and methods for their elimination.

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Breakdown of heating elements, bearing wear, failure of the control unit - these types of malfunctions in washing machines are the most common. Here https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/740/cancliz/mnogokvartirnyie-doma/santehnika/stiralnaya-mashina-indezit-neispravnosti-remont-svoimi-rukami.html you will learn how to fix it yourself breakdowns of cars Indesit.

The first step in such a situation is to check the serviceability of the engine and the integrity of the power supply circuit.

It will be difficult to do this without sufficient experience, so it is better to contact the service center.

Here, if necessary, they will check the correct operation of the control module circuit - perhaps it is it giving the device incorrect commands.

Most often, the cause of such failures is the breakdown of the heating element - due to natural wear and tear or due to fouling with scale. Follow these steps:

After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the back panel of the case.
Check the resistance of the heating element with a multimeter (its shank with the wires connected to it protrudes from the tank in its lower part). At room temperature, the meter should read 30 ohms.
If the resistance is different from normal, the heating element must be replaced. The wires are disconnected from it, and then the nut located between the contacts is unscrewed. The heater can then be pulled out. This should be done with care, gently rocking the element and not applying excessive force. If the heating element is stuck and does not give in, you need to soften the scale with WD-40 liquid. After dismantling the heater, its seat must be cleaned, after which it will be possible to install a replacement. The new heating element must correspond to the given model of the washing machine. Heating element from another model can burn out, moreover, together with the control module.
If the resistance measurement showed that the heating element is working properly, you need to check the condition of the temperature sensor. Its performance is also verified by measuring the resistance. At room temperature, it should be 5.7 - 6.3 kΩ.

The reason may lie in the "sticking" of the contacts of the heating element relay located near the control module.

If water is found under the washing machine, the following items should be checked:

Gasket at the connection of the filling hose. If excessive wear occurs, it must be replaced.
Hatch seal. Over time, this element can deform or crack. To dismantle a worn cuff, it is necessary to remove the clamp holding it. It fits snugly enough, but if you pry it off with a screwdriver, it comes off quite easily.
Drain connection or where the drain hose is attached to the pump. If there is damage in this area, water will start to seep out at the same time as filling the machine. A damaged part - hose, pipe or pump - must be replaced.
Tank of the car. Leaks can be caused by its depressurization.

In the latter case, you will need specialized equipment for repairs, so you will have to contact the service center.

The machine itself informs the user of some breakdowns by displaying a special alphanumeric sequence on the display - an error code. Here are some of them:

E11 - insufficient water supply during washing.As already mentioned, you need to check the water inlet path, filter and valve.
E13 - there is a water leak into the sump.
E21 - problems with water drainage. Most likely, you need to clean the drain filter. Together with clothes, sand, seed husks and other small debris, buttons, pins and other small objects can get into the machine, therefore it is recommended to clean the drain filter after every 3 washes. If this measure did not give a positive result, it is necessary to check the operation of the pump. Its winding resistance should be approximately 170 ohms.
Codes E23 and E24 speak of a malfunction of the drain pump control semiconductor in the control module.
E35 - the water level in the tank has exceeded the permissible threshold. Most likely, the reason is a breakdown of the level sensor or a clogged tube.
E41 - E45 means a malfunction of the hatch lock or its blocking elements.

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Loud noise when the drum rotates at high rpm may be due to the following reasons:

The position of the machine is not strictly horizontal.
The drum is underloaded, as a result of which the center of gravity of the laundry has deviated from the center of rotation (strong vibrations will occur at high speeds).
One of the bearings is broken.

Bearings in Zanussi machines can be replaced by yourself. This is done like this:

Having completely disassembled the machine, you need to remove the tank with the drum.
After removing the drum pulley and unscrewing several bolts around the perimeter of the tank, the latter must be disassembled into two parts.
Using careful hammer blows through a wooden lining, you need to knock the drum axle shaft out of the bearing assembly in the rear half of the tank.
Next, using a puller, the bearing itself should be removed along with the oil seal.
The drum axle shaft and bearing seat must be thoroughly cleaned.
In place of the old bearing, a new one is installed, while its oil seal is stuffed with special grease.

Having lubricated the axle shaft and the inner ring of the bearing, the drum and the rear of the tank are again assembled into a single unit, after which both halves of the tank are fastened, having smeared the junction with a sealant.

In some models of Zanussi washing machines, the bearing assembly - the so-called caliper - is unscrewed.

After removing the drive belt, you need to dismantle the drum pulley (it is held by a screw). Next, you need to disconnect the grounding plate and unscrew the caliper by turning it to the right.

The caliper on the side opposite to the pulley (in machines with top loading) is unscrewed in the opposite direction. The direction of rotation at each node is indicated by arrows labeled “Open” and “Close”. After installing a new caliper, the unit is assembled in the reverse order.

To keep the screw holding the pulley securely, the threads should be coated with Loctite before screwing in.

Malfunctions and minor breakdowns of the Zanussi washing machine can be eliminated by everyone. You just need to carefully read the instructions and study the error codes. Calling a specialist can be very costly. Whereas self-repair of the washing machine at home will help save time and money.Often, Zanussi washing machines fail due to minor breakdowns, which you can repair yourself.Basically, consumers give preference to models with horizontal loading of linen. But for the sake of saving space, you can install a top-loading device. The assembly and control parts are the same, so the breakdowns are the same. Conventionally, they can be grouped according to the following criteria:

malfunction in electronics;

breakdown in the drain or spin system;

drum problems;

noises at work;

problems with opening or closing the hatch;

lack of water heating;

leaking machine;

lack of a set of water.

The washing machine has a specific fault notification function enabled.A signal is given, and a special code is displayed on the display, showing what is wrong with the machine.If the electronic system fails, then most likely the problem is in a burnt-out semiconductor device or module. The correction of such a breakdown consists in replacing the burned out element with a new one by soldering.DIY repair is done if there is at least a superficial knowledge of electricity. Otherwise, you can only harm and cause even greater damage.

The malfunction lies in the lack of water drainage or poor-quality spinning. Most of the time, the cause is a clogged filter, pump or hose.Removing the blockage in the filter is done in a few simple steps.

1. Open the filter cover and drain off the water.

2. Pull out the filter itself and clean it of debris, rinse if necessary.

3. Wipe the installation site and replace the filter.

1. Disconnect the machine from the mains and turn off the water supply.

2. Open the plinth panel.

3. Pull out the drain hose and drain off the remaining water.

4. Unscrew the pump cover and clean it of debris.

5. Put everything in place.

When cleaning the drain hose, carefully feel it for any foreign matter. If it is found, you should carefully remove it.In some cases, the problem with draining and spinning is the breakdown of elements associated with these functions: a pump, an electronic module or a command device. Only their replacement will help.The engine can be heard, but the drum is stationary or wobbles from side to side. The reason is in the drive belt. Inspection of the device will solve the problem. If the belt has fallen off, you must do the following:

1. Unscrew the back panel of the machine.

2. Replace the loose belt.

3. Replace the worn-out element with a new one.

This problem is one of the most common and can be easily fixed.If the belt is fully functional, make sure that the motor pulley is working properly. If it breaks down, you cannot solve the problem on your own. It is necessary to call a specialist. The equipment emits uncharacteristic sounds when the engine is running or vibrates during spinning. The malfunction of the Zanussi washing machine in the form of noises is caused by wear on the bearings.Even without special knowledge, changing bearings will not be difficult:

1. The machine is completely disassembled, the tank with the drum is pulled out.

2. The drive belt is removed.

3. Unscrew and remove all components on the way to the bearings.

4. The tank is disconnected, the pulley is removed from the drum.

5.Use a screwdriver to remove the oil seal.

6. By tapping with a hammer on the drum, the bearing is removed and replaced with a new one.

7. All parts are installed in their place.

Occasionally, the noise occurs due to the ingress of a foreign object between the drum and the tub. Excessive vibration is caused by insufficient loading of the machine, which leads to uneven weight distribution and a shift in the center of gravity.The door of the Zanussi washing machine will not open at the end of the wash. The problem is in the blocker. You can fix this yourself by means of an emergency opening:

1. Remove the bottom panel and find the red cable. It is usually located in the lower right corner.

2. Pull the cable towards you, as a result the hatch will open.

If the hatch does not open and the cable is missing, this means that the bollard is broken. Then you need to purchase and install a new one. Even after successfully fixing the problem, you should consult a technician to prevent re-seizing.The hatch does not close due to the breakage of the plastic clips. The procedure for fixing this malfunction is as follows:

1. Loosen the screws holding the lock.

2. Remove the clamp and seal from the hatch.

3.Pull out the lock and inspect for damage.

4. If any part is broken, you must purchase a new one and replace it.

It should be noted that hatch breakage occurs most often as a result of improper operation. A careful attitude will prevent the problem and save the family budget. The problem lies in the breakdown of the heating element. This is due to a large amount of limescale on the heating device or simply its wear.The heating element in the Zanussi washing machines is in the back. In order to get to it, you must unscrew the bolts and remove the cover. The device is removed in stages:

1. The heating element is freed from the wires.

2. Unscrew the nut between the contacts.

3. The part is carefully removed.

4. A special composition cleans the installation site from scale.

5. A new heating element is being installed.

If the heating element is in good condition, but the water still does not heat up, it is necessary to call a specialist to inspect and identify the cause.Water comes out from under the machine or a large amount of foam appears. This situation can be caused by several reasons:

wear of the gasket in the place of the filling hose;

deformation or drying out of the seal in the hatch;

damage at the place where the hose is attached to the pump or in the drain pipe;

depressurization of the drum.

You can independently solve this problem by replacing old seals with new ones. In case of depressurization of the drum, a call to the master is required.First you need to find the reason. The point may be the banal lack of water in the tap. If the water was not turned off, then you need to inspect the parts.

1. Disconnect the inlet hose from the machine and turn on the water. If the problem is in it, water will not flow.

2. Check the filter in the filler valve. Remove, inspect and clean if necessary.

3. Inspect the filler valve. If it breaks down, replace it.

Low water pressure or lack of pressure in the system can also be a problem.All Zanussi washing machines are supplied with an instruction manual. On one of its pages there is a list of codes and their decoding.E11 - there is not enough water supply to the unit;E13 - there was a water leak;E21 (E20) - water is not drained;E22 - violation of condensate drainage during the drying process;E23 and E24 - a seven-meter burned out or its track burned out;E35 - more water enters the machine than it should be;