Charger for lenovo 1a smartphone DIY repair

In detail: charging for a lenovo smartphone 1a DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Greetings radio amateurs.
Going through old boards I came across a couple of switching power supplies from mobile phones and wanted to restore them and at the same time tell you about their most frequent breakdowns and elimination of shortcomings. The photo shows two universal schemes of such charges, which are most often found:

In my case, the board was similar to the first circuit, but without an LED at the output, which only plays the role of an indicator of the presence of voltage at the output of the block. First of all, you need to deal with the breakdown, below in the photo I outline the details which most often fail:

And we will check all the necessary details using a conventional DT9208A multimeter.
It has everything you need for this. Continuity mode for diodes and transistor transitions, as well as an ohmmeter and capacitor capacitance meter up to 200μF. This set of functions is more than enough.

When checking radio components, you need to know the base of all parts of transistors and diodes, especially:

Now we are completely ready to check and repair the switching power supply unit. Let's start checking the unit to identify visible damage, in my case there were two burnt resistors with cracks on the case. I did not reveal any more obvious shortcomings; in other power supplies I met swollen capacitors, which also need to be paid attention to in the first place. Some details can be checked without soldering, but if in doubt, it is better to unsolder and check separately from the circuit. Solder carefully so as not to damage the tracks. It is convenient to use a third hand during the soldering process:

Video (click to play).

After checking and replacing all faulty parts, do the first turn on through a light bulb, I made a special stand for this:

We turn on the charger through the light bulb, if everything works, then we twist it into the case and rejoice at the work done, if we are not looking for other disadvantages, also after soldering, do not forget to wash off the flux, for example, with alcohol. If all else fails and nerves are in the balance, discard the board or solder and select live parts in stock. Everyone is in a good mood. I also suggest watching the video.

Lenovo charging repair - we will analyze the step-by-step method of repairing a charger or power supply for a laptop. To start direct repair of the power supply unit, you need to open it, which is not so easy to do as it seems at first glance. Nevertheless, you will have to open the block case with an object that can be used to disconnect the box. Most likely, a sharp screwdriver or knife will do.

After the case is divided into two parts, you need to dismantle the cooling radiator from it. But to facilitate the work, you must first unsolder the wire.

Then, at the output, we ring the wire with a multimeter in order to determine a short circuit and immediately ring the diode.

In the case of a broken diode, it is necessary to remove the heat sink on which the diode is fixed. You need to be careful here, as one side of the heatsink is soldered into the board. Well, then everything is clear - we change the diode to a known good one and put the radiator in place.

Do not forget, after replacing any part and soldering it into the board, cut off the excess length of its legs. It is good to clean the board with alcohol from the flux residues. To ensure the best contact between the diode pad and the radiator, heat-conducting paste KPT-8 should be applied to the attachment point.

Image - Charging for a smartphone lenovo 1a DIY repair

At the next stage, we install the heat sink in place. At the same time, take measures to exclude a short circuit on the wire. If the wire is very twisted, then it is quite possible that a short circuit may occur in this place.Therefore, you need to cut off the plug on the wire with pliers and remove the insulation from it with the remnants of the wire.

The next step is to remove some of the insulation from the end of the wire, strip it thoroughly, and then solder the same place to the plug. Pay attention to the polarity when soldering - do not mix it up (see picture). Ensure no short circuit and fit heat shrink tubing over this connector.

Next, we solder the restored wire to the printed circuit board, also observing the polarity. The "GND" marking on the contact pad of the printed circuit board is used to connect the negative wire.

The assembly of the power supply unit must be carried out in stages in the reverse order. After installing all the parts in the housing, you do not need to glue it immediately. You must first check it for performance, and then glue it together.

Now, as never before, the number of gadgets per person has reached the maximum value.

Phones, tablets, laptops, various wireless headsets - all this abundance of technology has a power source and, accordingly, a charger for it.

Chargers are often carried with them in a bag or pocket, and so that they take up a minimum of space, their cords are twisted with a bend and a stretch.

This, in turn, leads to an almost imperceptible wire break and inoperability of charging. Just break in the cord - this is the most common breakdown in such types of devices, and, frankly, it is a pity to throw it away because of this.

Yes, you can certainly buy a new one and not suffer, but if the device is non-standard, for example, an old model phone, then it is not always possible to find such a charger. And at the "flea market" you can slip a block with the same problem, and no one needs extra spending.

Therefore, repairing a charger is a useful and worthwhile business.

Below, in this article, a simple repair method that does not require special equipment will be described, which will give your charge a second life.

In the photo - charging with a problem in the cord.

The cliff is not always visible to the naked eye. It can be hidden under the thickness of the main (top) insulation and remains practically invisible.

But, as practice shows, the fracture occurs most often near the entrance to the block or at the base of the plug.

To locate the break, just connect the included charger to the phone and wiggle the cord in a suspicious place.

As soon as you see that the charging "went" for a moment, it means that there is a break in the place where you were moving at that moment.

In this case, looking closely, the break and cliff were visible even without stirring. It just turned out at the entrance to the power supply.

The main problem in the repair of such blocks is that it is not collapsible. Therefore, to get to the electronic board, you need to be careful and some effort.

Using a screwdriver and a knife, pry off the base of the rear cover and remove it.

Pry should be at the point where the cord enters the device. If the entry is too tight, you can cut the rubber strap slightly.

This must be done carefully so as not to cut the wire at all.

Having poked it up with a screwdriver, we try to lift the cover up.

It may happen that it cracks in half, but more often, as in this case, the cover was removed entirely, without damage.

It was even seen that it had latches, and in the charger case there were recesses for them.
This means that it is possible, after repair, to put the cover in its place without using glue.
When the cover is removed, you need to pull the printed circuit board out of the case. Since it "sits" tightly, a screwdriver will help to get it out. Leaning the blade of the screwdriver against the body and hooking it with the end of one of the soldering points, we pull the board out.

The structure of the case is such that when the board is inserted inside, its input contacts are connected to the clamps of the pins of the power plug. Therefore, when installing the board back into the case, you need to take this point into account.
The photo below shows the board with all its "insides". The wires are soldered at the bottom.

View from the opposite side.

And here in the photo are the tracks for the input contacts.

The wire will have to be cut below where the damage is. But it is very important to remember which wire is "+" and which is "-". In some cases, the wires are colored accordingly, red is the positive and black is the negative.

With color marking, you can safely cut, and then just solder the wires, observing the polarity.
In our case, the wires are of the same color, but since the cord is flat, you can trace from which side of the cord the wire goes to minus, and from which to plus. Mark and then crop.

Next, unsolder the remaining ends from the board and prepare holes for soldering a new wire.

Without losing the label, strip and tin the wires on the cord.

Solder them one by one to the board, observing the polarity.

The PCB usually has polarity markings at the soldering point.

To prevent the cord from dangling at the outlet, we wind a bandage of black electrical tape around its entrance part. The thickness of the band should be such that it fits into the slot for the wire and locks into it.

Before installing the cover, we check the operation of the device. We plug it into the network and connect it to the phone. If the phone is not with you at the moment, we use a DC voltmeter.

Since the internal contact in the socket has a very thin tube, and the probe of the device does not go into it, you can use a piece of thin copper wire to check.

Having inserted it into the tube of the internal contact, we connect the probes of the measuring device to it and to the external output of the plug.

The voltmeter shows that voltage is present, which means that the breakdown has been repaired.

Now we snap on the back cover.

We connect the phone and rejoice at the results of the work done.

Nowadays, it is hard to believe that mobile devices were the easiest way to connect with other people. Now an ordinary mobile phone has turned into a high-speed smartphone with huge multimedia functionality, and the body has begun to store the power of a good computer inside itself. The use of devices is very addictive and some do not even take a break, even for a short time. Such exploitation greatly affects charging, and constant recharging can lead to damage to one of the most important connectors of the phone. How to fix the phone charging jack if it breaks down, you will learn from today's article.

How do I fix the charging port on my phone at home? Here you need to figure it out, then everything will work out. Inaccurate use of a mobile device very often ends in some kind of breakdown that needs to be fixed. Sometimes the breakdown lies in the power cable connector. In this case, you need to find out how to fix it, and for this it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main causes of the defect.

You can spill some liquid on the device or just drop it well to disable this module.
Constant mechanical stress deforms the socket, which can make charging the gadget simply an impossible procedure - the plug will not fit into the socket or it will dangle in it.
Contact pads may also bend, which will completely block access to electricity.

Let's talk right away about the worst thing - about moisture.

Moisture contact of a mobile phone connector is the most dangerous damage. Corrosion will start a chain reaction and all nearby components will oxidize. Such defects can also damage the dynamics, which is most often located at the bottom of the device. Also, the speaker itself gives access to moisture to get on the cable or connector. Therefore, even light rain can damage your phone.

Important! Find out what you can do, is it possible to reanimate the gadget if a more serious trouble happened to you - the phone fell into the water and does not turn on.

The most important thing is to assess the complexity of the damage, since not all cases allow you to repair a house. The best option is to use the services of a qualified specialist from some service center.So you will not risk breaking your device.

Very rarely, restoration work can be carried out independently. It is best to find an alternative way of charging for a while, until you decide for yourself whether to fix it yourself. While the required amount is being set aside for repairs in the workshop, read the instructions for charging a phone with a broken socket:

Insert the charger into your smartphone and plug into the network.

Important! This method is relevant only for devices that have suffered from mechanical stress, and not from moisture.

Gently wiggle the cord and device in opposite directions. You may be able to close the contact and charge the device.
If the mobile phone still detects the presence of a charger, then it is worth fixing the position found. Books and other items can be used that can set the phone so that the power continues.
Before carrying out all these actions, it is worth making sure that the problem is in the socket, and not in the battery. Prolonged use of the phone leads to the fact that it no longer holds a charge. For this case, you will have to acquire a new battery, and not deal with a "phantom" breakdown.
If it's all the same in the nest, then repairs here cannot be avoided.

Important! Remember that all these manipulations can further loosen the nest, so do not use too much force during work.

If everything is in order with the connector now, but the problem of the lack of energy in the battery still has not disappeared, read on what to do if the phone does not charge from charging.

If your phone is designed to allow you to remove the battery, then you can use the universal charger. Such devices are called "Frog". It costs, of course, not very cheap, but sometimes you need to urgently charge the phone. This gadget has special grooves into which you need to insert and fix the battery.

But this method also has a number of obvious disadvantages:

While charging, the smartphone will not work and cannot be used until the battery is charged.
The purchase price of "Frog" is quite high and does not always justify its purchase.
If the reputation of the manufacturer is very dubious, then you will only harm your device.

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How do I fix my phone's charging connector? You can try to replenish energy reserves by disconnecting the power port itself from the phone.

Important! This method is very complex and requires the user to have basic knowledge and skills in working with equipment and electricity.

The essence of the work is as follows:

We remove the battery from the smartphone.
We unplug the charger from the outlet, arm ourselves with a sharp object and remove the insulation from the wire by five centimeters.
Strip the wires and determine where the plus is and where the minus is.
Determine the polarities on the battery and connect the wires to it.
Secure the improvised terminals and apply mains power.

Important! This method is not recommended as you may get hurt even while charging. Do not work with uninsulated wires if you have never done so and do not know how the electric current behaves.

You need to be very careful if you do decide to fix the charging jack with your own hands.

To disassemble the case and remove the socket, we need:

A small set of screwdrivers.
Technical tweezers (regular tweezers will work as well).
A utility knife or a regular sharp one.
Soldering Station.

Now you need to do the following:

We unscrew all the screws on which the case is attached.
Carefully remove the cover by prying it off with a clerical knife.
We ground the soldering iron, solder the wire to minus (device body). The other end of this wire must be brought to the body of the soldering iron itself.

Important! These measures are necessary so that the mobile phone does not suffer from the accumulation of static electricity, which can harm parts. It's also a good idea to make an ESD wrist strap and ground it.

Now we unsolder all the wires from the socket.This is to prevent short circuits.
Next, you need to remove the screws from the board that hold it. Now we have access to the microUSB connector.
We take out the old socket, solder a new one in its place, assemble the device in the reverse order and check it for operability.

You may also find our instructions on how to clean the headphone jack on your phone useful.

When the voltage in the battery falls below the nominal (the value is indicated on the battery label), then other devices simply cannot recognize it. Therefore, when you connect a charger or to a PC, the phone does not respond. It is recommended to leave charging for a long time from 30 minutes to several hours.

The obvious reason for Lenovo not charging is a swollen, damaged, or oxidized battery. Remove the back cover and inspect the battery. If external defects are on the face, then you just need to replace it with a new one.

Or your smartphone model does not have a collapsible body - then inspect its geometric integrity. A swollen battery will give a slightly deformed appearance.

Test the charger on a different gadget. If the charging indication is on, then this is not the problem.But it should be carefully examined for mechanical damage. If the integrity of the cords is broken, there are kinks, then the contact will not be permanent, respectively, recharging will not occur correctly.

Also, the USB and mini USB plugs of the cable and the connector in the power supply must not be damaged. If any, the charger must be replaced.

Take a close look at the charger connector socket. Use an extra bright light, such as a flashlight. All contacts should be aligned, parallel to each other. Any deviation indicates the need to repair the connector or replace it.

To solve such a problem, you can contact the wizards in the service for servicing Lenovo smartphones.

Often, the reason a Lenovo phone won't charge is if the charger is not in contact with the connector socket due to dirt. Clean yourself and check again if the charge signal is received. It is recommended to use a fine brush (a toothbrush is suitable at home) and a fast evaporating product. Gently clean the socket from side to side without strong pressure.

Software glitch, virus activity, Android software problem can also cause Lenovo A2010, A319, P780, P70 and other models to not charge. You can fix the problem by following these steps:

remove applications from dubious and unknown manufacturers;
install antivirus and perform antivirus cleaning;
install helper applications (cleaners CCleaner, Clean Master, Smart Manager) and clean the gadget from software debris;
reset the device to factory settings;
update or reflash the device.

Incorrect software operation leads to malfunctions of the gadget and this may affect the charging function as well.

The most serious problem, which is best solved in a service center, is the failure of the charging controller in the phone itself. This is often caused by moisture ingress or mechanical damage (fall or shock). It is this element that is responsible for the possibility of accepting a charge by the device. You do not diagnose this defect on your own, you need special equipment and professional skills.

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hair dryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you are replacing this radio element with the same one - it is not yet a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radioelements are almost everywhere used; The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to repair the radio equipment on your own, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance for solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or during, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Hello everyone! Today we disassemble connectors Lenovo IdeaPad G500, Yoga 11, 11S, 13, 13 Touch, X1 carbon and others with the same connector.

There are 3 contact groups involved in the connector:

Frame - GND (Land).
Inner surface of connector housing - APDIN (voltage 20V).
Connector needle - ADP_ID (control signal).

Pinout (wiring) of the charger jack.

Pinout (unsoldering) of the port for connecting the laptop charger.

The divider circuit of the charger located in the jack.

Fragment of a schematic diagram of a laptop motherboard for a general understanding of the operation of this node. It shows - tension ADP_ID is formed through the N-channel mosfet from + 3VALW, by applying voltage to the gate VIN... Moreover, the magnitude of the voltage on ADP_ID formed by the divider located in the jack (plug) of the charger, indicates to the multicontroller the power of the plug-in charger 90W, 65W or 45W.

Below is a table of the divider resistance installed in the jack for generating the voltage value ADP_ID.

In conclusion, it becomes clear the reasons for the errors of many service centers when replacing broken connectors. Indeed, by analogy with HP, many connect the resistance to APDIN (20V), and get a burned-out laptop at the exit along the line ADP_ID... The cases when the connector was broken and the multicontroller on the motherboard went out of order are also understandable and explainable. Replacement and firmware of which often exceeds 3000 rubles.

Well, looking at this article, it is possible to modify the circuit on the motherboard to disable the power check of the charger. Those who have been friends with a soldering iron for a long time have probably already figured out how to do it). This modification will simplify the design and protect the multicontroller from being hit APDIN (20V) on the ADP_ID.

At a 45W power supply, there is a resistor of about 110 ohms! By marking (cor, cor, yellow (orange), black, evil) for 130 ohms.

I confirm! Yes, there are some, depending on the model. The level of Detection voltage (output voltage from the divider) is important, in your case it is about 0.5V. Which corresponds to 45W power supplies, since the level is determined from 0.3 to 0.9 volts.

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Good day, dear pikabushniki!

He brought me in repairs, our dear @thenew pick-up from St. Petersburg, a Lenovo laptop. I asked to fix the charger. I then thought that the wire at the very charging was frayed, but it turned out that the socket itself was in the laptop. Usually I don’t digest lenovo, but decided to make sure once again that lenovo is good. The owner lived territorially next to me, and the mood was good, so they decided on the spot, at my house, to repair the laptop.

This is how the charging connector dangled.

Potty on the other side.

Black crap, it was glued, because it fell out constantly.

So. Now the fun begins.

This photo below shows a universal charger.

Roughly speaking, each laptop (manufacturer) has its own hole shape ~~(sounds funny)~~ for charging with its own voltage value. So, so that the charging determines which hole is inserted into it, its resistance value is inserted into this hole. The photo shows that each adapter has three contacts. 1-ground, aka minus, 2-average, 3-plus. Between the ground and the middle, some kind of resistance is inserted. In this way, charging gives the desired voltage value for each hole in the laptop.

In our case, Lenovo (~~so that you will be torn up there in the street~~) and some other manufacturers took an even more cunning route. They made it so that only original charges, made protection against counterfeiting. In the original charging, the "originality sensor" was also crammed, ie. with left charging, the laptop will not charge. But we, too, are not made with a stick / finger.

Let's see what happened to our “yellow stub”.

Power comes to the board, but the "sensor" does not ring.

Take and solder the SOVIET 10K resistor. Such a resistor is in the connector near the charging, the motherboard (cartoon) looks at it through the "hole".

We check with our own stub. Over there, on the left, you can see him. I got a laptop from the network.

Since the owner wanted a round exercise, then we will make him a round one.

We take goblet from some kind of laptop, with a round charging hole, and.

And we break it out. Why do not we solder it, but so that it can be screwed / glued securely.

This cable that went from the charging connector to the motherboard had 5 wires. 2 pluses, 2 minuses and 1 to the “gauge”. We no longer need the sensor wiring, we just bite it off. We solder the wires to the new connector.

Let's take ~~cold welding~~ salty dough.

We take everything in the picture and mix it. The more salt, the more reliable it will be.

I didn't have margarine, so sunflower oil.

Knead and let thicken a little.

Why did it turn out gray, but because I didn’t wash my hands without margarine. 🙂

We will slap it thoroughly, but so that gibs did not interfere.

Yes Yes. The USSR helps our friends from the Middle Kingdom to work.

Well, since there was a hole in the bottom cover, then the owner himself molded the continuation of the case from the dough. Then he himself will jerk off with a file, so that it is beautiful.

We collect, check without a battery.

To repair lenovo, you need to fulfill several MANDATORY conditions.

Lenovo is repaired ONLY on the last Saturday of July at midnight and it is imperative that it be the 30th of the month. The moon should be rising. The solder with which you are going to solder Lenova should be cast by a 35-year-old virgin who utters a request to the spirits of nobility. Otherwise, nothing will work. That is why I do not take lenovo.

Everything works, everything rustles and is now charging.

He piled me with all sorts of rubbish, while I suspend the reception in repairs (phones and tablets), I will take the Notebooks. You really doh. a lot, but I'm alone. The people have been waiting for a long time. Once I finish, I will start accepting applications again.

I will write mail ONLY (with laptops, you can bring them to the repair shop) for questions and consultations.

I don't take Lenovo laptops, tablets and phones. Because while you fix one, the other breaks. While you fix something else, something else will break. Well, their forest.

I take laptops only from St. Petersburg, well, or you yourself, pass it on through someone. A lot of fiddling with them in the mail. Courier services will not work either, because they bring it when it is convenient for them, and not for me.

Video (click to play).

Let me remind you, dear pikabushniks, that I do not work in the Service Center (SC). This is my hobby, to repair various electronic things.

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