Zelmer ck1004 DIY repair

The Zelmer electric kettle with digital temperature control, which served for almost 3 years, during which it finally convinced the whole family of the advantage of push-button setting of the water temperature over simple ones, where it is simply brought to a boil, stopped working. Well, he held out for a good time, and I'm even glad that there was an opportunity to look inside, which I did not do in his last review, not daring to break the factory seals on the case.

The first thought is that the heating element has burnt out. After such a kettle, you can safely throw it into the barn, since it will be extremely problematic to find exactly such a kettle. You can check it with an ordinary ohmmeter, poking with probes on the contact plates in the lower part of the case, with which the electric kettle is placed on the stand.

There are 4 contacts in total: 2 from the heater and 2 from the thermistor, which is the temperature sensor for the electronic filling. Luckily everything was fine - a 20 ohm heater and a 100k ohm thermistor.

Now it's time to disassemble the stand with the control unit inside, after finding a curly screwdriver with 6 petals. If it is not there, a simple 2.5 hex key is perfect.

Inside was a whole printed circuit board with details - pretty pretty. It has an LED indicator of water degrees, and LEDs for operating modes, and a relay for turning on the heater (for some reason, the triac was supposed to be a key), and many other radio elements - planar and not so much.

There are 3 repair options:

1. Change the button to a new one.
2. Disassemble and clean the inside of the contact plates.
3. Swap with another similar one that is not used.

Since it is not always possible to find a 100% copy, and not every button can be disassembled (and especially assembled) - I followed the simplest path. In total, there are 4 buttons on the board: on-off, setting a preset temperature value (40 - 60 - 70 - 80 - 90 - 100 degrees) and plus / minus keys for manually setting the value. We never use them, so one of the buttons will go to the place of the faulty one.

Electric kettle. Power: 2200 W. Volume: 1.7 l. Stainless steel flat heating element. Body material: metal. Sound signal. Temperature support and regulation. Anti-scale filter. Color: stainless steel.

Video Electric kettle Zelmer CK 1004 channel Alexander Lesnikov

Who does not like boiling water, everyone on the thermopot)) A kettle with a thermostat from Zelmer. Pros and cons. Comparison with Philips HD4686 / 90. How to clean with improvised means.

We have been using a teapot with a thermometer for a very long time (about 8 years) and we are not the first to have the Zelmer CK 1004 model, so there is something to compare with.

Usually the thought of buying such a kettle comes to mind for people who love green tea, or people who have or are planning children =) I was guided by simple convenience - I don’t drink boiling water, and it’s unbearably long to wait until the tea or coffee cools down to the desired temperature.

Therefore, the first model was bought without any special choices, just which one came to hand (and got Philips HD4686 / 90, others were exorbitantly expensive).

On the whole, of course, we were happy with it, if not for one thing - the kettle quickly broke down =) In just 4 years ..

We bought the next one already carefully choosing and it was exactly Zelmer CK 1004, price about 2360 rubles.

Let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of this model.

- stainless steel body (unlike Philips, which is made of plastic)

- a display that constantly shows the current water temperature. (many models do not have it). It turns off after about 1.5 hours.

- a large temperature range - 40, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100 degrees, using the + and - buttons, you can adjust it with an accuracy of 5 degrees (Philips only has 40, 80, 90, 100)

- the function of a thermo-pot, that is, maintaining the temperature (however, Phillips also has this)

- a fairly large volume - 1.7 liters

- there is protection against switching on without water (did not check)

- there is a compartment for storing the cord, it is not necessary to pull out the entire length

- relatively cheap (among "metal")

- boils the entire volume of water for quite a long time (although not to say that low-power - 2200W)

- not very convenient scale / window, located under the handle

- it is easy to fill the stand with the display with water (though it dried up later and the kettle continued to work)

- no filter (like Philips)

Generally I am very pleased with the work of the kettle, serves already 4, although I will not say that without problems. Buttons are already starting to glitch and water is leaking.

Phillips by this time began to leak in exactly the same way (as it turned out later, the rubber gasket, which let water through, had served, and it could not be replaced ..).

By the way, a little remark. This kettle NOT thermopot =) It has the function of maintaining the temperature, but it is carried out due to constant heating (that is, electricity is used), in thermopots, heat is stored due to the case, as in a thermos (although heating also happens there).

Now a little about how to clean it.

I take a sachet of citric acid, pour it into a full kettle and just boil it. Next, I pour out the water, just rinse it and continue to use it as usual. An excellent and cheap BIO product, cleans 100%, this is what the kettle looks like between cleanings

Summing up, I can conclude that cheap teapots with a thermostat fail equally quickly, a maximum of 4-5 years of service, and if you are lucky. The mother-in-law's kettle is an order of magnitude more expensive (Stollar, I don't know the model, also with a regulator), has been serving without complaints for six years already, so the quality of the price in this matter apparently depends directly

In general, the Zelmer CK 1004 recommend to the purchase, everyone who is interested in a pretty design for a reasonable price and more or less good quality =). But if you need a reliable thing, look for another option.

3novichok3, to ban you or what?

I'm sorry. But the last time I inserted the text completely, something didn't work out.

In continuation of this topic, I want to inform you that recently, after 2 weeks after the replacement and disappearing of the triac, it stopped turning on again.
The reason was the lack of solids in the control circuit (which is with LEDs). I soldered the details on the board and the device started working.
I'm waiting for Saturday PCB (day of genius, general cleaning), I will test it again.

I bought myself a barter LG vacuum cleaner model V-3300T. It was faulty, more precisely, the M12JZ47 thyristor was punctured in it. The tracks on the board were burnt out in places, and there was a burned-out motor manifold with torn out current-carrying terminals of the windings. I replaced the engine with a new one, and replaced the punctured thyristor with a BTB12 600 triac. And the whole vacuum cleaner worked like new. The regulator is working properly! Also, the lid of the dustbin was broken on the vacuum cleaner, in the sense of fastening the hinge there are small hooks. This is fixable, you need to cut them out of the piece of iron, bend the plates and fasten them with screws. Thank you. If you have any problems with the repair, write to me on Yandex. in contact Zhabyuk Ivan Vyacheslavovich. you will find me.

Good afternoon, the engine rattled during operation, disassembled, crumbled to shreds, the upper bearing, replaced it. But I did not write down where which wires go and if it is clear with thin ones, then black and blue I probably confused and the light in the apartment went out (((. Help is very necessary. are on (vacuuming at the very minimum) .When the light was turned on, they found knocked-out resistor R5 at 510 KΩ, R2 62 KΩ, conductor C3 470 mF and C5 at 100 pF, changed the result to zero, there is no more visible damage, the triac has no visible damage .. Where need to dig? soap

In your case, it would be more correct to ask “where” to dig, and not “where”. (- Where to dig a grave ?, or - Where to dig a grave ?, think for yourself!)

always on the vacuum cleaner, the engine has thick wires. no matter what color they are. a little tough. have tip folders.there are several types of them. they have locks. by which they are attached to the motor terminals. thin wires. they are always located for connecting controls and connectors. and for the mains voltage are not calculated.

))) two wires, which means two folders, which means you need to know which mom to put on which dad not? The question is precisely in this on a kukuya black to wear on what blue!

Trolls are so cute, but I don't like feeding them ok ?!

220 volt. and not, the constant where + and - have a high value, the polarities are what I'm trying to explain to you. engine powered by 220 volt alternating voltage. do not need polarity. and connecting the engine where to put mom on which dad. irrelevant! plug it in and don't be afraid.

2 black thin ones (go together on the left) - to the left side of the board - black on the outer connectors, blue next to it. And the wires on the right are blue doubled - the most extreme where there are 2 connectors. Next to him is black thin. And the black double ones are on the other side, where there is one connector.

Tell me, how to remove the impeller? The same problem as beach240382 - the upper bearing crumbled. The cap seems to be riveted (flattened).

An impeller of this type, like a rivet, cannot be removed at all. Because it is riveted at the factory and tack welded. Such engines are considered disposable and cannot be repaired.

At first I thought so too, but beach240382 also writes that he changed the bearing. I did not find any engines in the services. You will have to “suffer” yourself.

Interestingly, the bearing of both of us crumbled with a difference of a month - mysticism or expired abruptly?

There is a photo of the wiring and buttons. Photo of a triac. If someone is not too lazy or who is more for the order on the forum - I will send a photo to the soap for insertion on the forum. It will not work by itself because of the bad Internet.

I will be in touch for the photo of the posting

I would be grateful for a photo of the wiring and buttons, soap below

Does anyone have a power regulator circuit?

ZELMER 919 The control unit grunted! Microcircuit in the module for shorty power supply. Ordered from abroad (waited almost a month). I put a new one on the socket and the module is dead. I rang the body kit _ I did everything. I swung the manual about mikruhu and she went to a campaign without brains, such as need to be stitched. Who worked with this miracle, tell me.
Who can flash it? As an option, I decided to mold a simple control from the masterkit schemes.

Although the spark is crushed by the toad sho grandmother rolled off not small, and the beautiful light bulbs will not burn.

help .. the vklyuchutsa the vacuum cleaner has stopped turning on and the vacuum cleaner itself is not .. earlier it was already while the curtains were turned on for repairs and started working.

The selmer 919 vacuum cleaner stopped working. My wife took me away for diagnostics. She was told the motor repair with replacement flew - 7000r. I found a new engine through the Internet in Barnaul, but I'm in Vladimir. Delivered by mail cash on delivery - 2427 rubles all together. I decided to install it myself, I did everything fine, but I forgot where the blue wire (thick double wire) goes, and where the black one goes. As a result, the trial and error method was short-lived. Disassembled again. There is a small scarf next to the motor. I took it off, and her tire was burnt out - I soldered it. Collected. Everything works except for power adjustment. PS I checked the old motor - it works too. I put the blue wire first, if you look at the vacuum cleaner with a hose forward, the upper right corner of the board, below is red, well, you can't go wrong, his mother is less than blue and black, well, black is below all. As a result, the vacuum cleaner works at full steam and the diagnosticians - the freaks wanted free money. Tell me what to do with the power control ?!

Sanek33, do not whistle, tell stories in social networks.

Not understood?! Look for the whistlers in the mirror. If there is no answer to the question, then it’s okay to show your IQ to the whole Internet

Looking for a bottom for a Zelmer CK1004 kettle? The Detalyuga online store will be happy to help you with this. A wide selection of Zelmer teapot bottoms, at affordable prices, with delivery anywhere in the world.

Buy the bottom for CK1004 now.With the ubiquitous spread of the World Wide Web, more and more people began to opt for online stores, realizing that online trading allows the seller to avoid the costs associated with renting premises, maintaining a huge staff of sellers, etc. Therefore, we offer our customers spare parts at lower prices than in ordinary stores. We are constantly expanding the range of spare parts by concluding contracts directly with manufacturers.
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Do not waste time searching for the desired spare part, fill out an application for ordering the goods and our manager will contact you and agree on the order.

Zelmer 919.0 st vacuum cleaner coil repair

To get to the coil you just need to remove the front

On the sides from the bottom, open the doors and use a short screwdriver

we unscrew the screws, but I also removed the doors on the right side

you need to remove the bolt and two screws under it

The front part is prevented from removing the wires going to the control board

We unscrew three self-tapping screws and remove the part with tubes

do not lose the rubber rings on the tubes through the formed

snap the hole off the panel latches with buttons

we get to the control board disconnect the wires

Unclench and spray WD40 press on the axle with a screwdriver

one of the sidewalls is removed remove the white disc with a spring

take out the current collector with rings solder the wires

The wires apparently came off from the fact that the rings

scroll on the current collector and when pulling the cord

the wires moved here and there broke off

Therefore, the rings must be glued during assembly.

The spring must be corrected before assembly as in the photo

We tighten the spring contacts

For those who have forgotten where the wires were

Krasnoyarsk repair of vacuum cleaners t. 8 933 332 3164

About a year ago, it was decided to purchase a new vacuum cleaner for household needs, because the old one was already completely tired and worked anyhow. Having studied the turn, he fixed his gaze on the Zelmer 919.0 st aquawelt model. The Niibazza vacuum cleaner was also suitable for us in terms of price, functionality and equipment. I must say right away that it worked perfectly! Everything that was expected of him, he performed without problems ... well, or almost everything. The carpets in the house were clean, in spite of the presence of living creatures in the form of a cat named Terry, who had never heard that it was not ice to throw wool around the house. But then at one fine moment the vacuum cleaner began to periodically emit non-standard sounds, as if something was slipping in it, and eventually began to hum so that the wife turned it off with fear and took it away, or maybe she poured holy water away from sin.

Soon we went on vacation. He stood there for about 2 months, after which it was decided to make efforts to fix the device.
In order to save nerves, I turned to the service center next door. In the SC, the answer was given that the vacuum cleaner is very funny in the sense that if it "grabs" the water (washing vacuum cleaner!) Then his cunt runs into a bearing, that the impeller and actually - ALL-FUCKING! Because the motor, bitch, is non-separable, unlike competing models.
On the question of whether it is possible to buy a motor or order it, they refused, saying that we do not have it in the price lists, and how long to wait for HZ.

Fuck-rattle, I thought, that's an ass, and when I came to the office, having calmed down a little from annoyance, I began to disassemble the vacuum cleaner on my own - after all, he's already fucked up! Having disassembled the unit, I found the motor, which was my headache. The motor, bitch, turned out to be really enchanted. Turning it around from all sides, I found its name and began to dig a tyrnet to buy the same, but serviceable and, if possible, new.The fact that the motor is non-separable (count as disposable) and is not often found on sale was not ignored by sellers. Prices for this device are about 4500 - 5500 rubles, which is almost comparable to the cost of the vacuum cleaner itself (about 7000 rubles new!). I found several options in Ukraine for 2500 + delivery of 1000, but decided that before bothering you need to try to do something yourself.
So it's decided! We will fix the motor ourselves!
On one of the few forums, I found a description of the problem and general methods for solving it. The text is simple: the impeller is firmly pressed onto the rotor and cannot be removed. The bearing we need is under it and the only way to replace the bearing is to drill out the lock washer.

Fuck-rattle, I thought, that's an ass, and when I came to the office, having calmed down a little from annoyance, I began to disassemble the vacuum cleaner on my own - after all, he's already fucked up! Having disassembled the unit, I found the motor, which was my headache. The motor, bitch, turned out to be really enchanted. Turning it around from all sides, I found its name and began to dig a tyrnet to buy the same, but serviceable and, if possible, new. The fact that the motor is non-separable (count as disposable) and is not often found on sale was not ignored by sellers. Prices for this device are about 4500 - 5500 rubles, which is almost comparable to the cost of the vacuum cleaner itself (about 7000 rubles new!). I found several options in Ukraine for 2500 + delivery of 1000, but decided that before bothering you need to try to do something yourself.
So it's decided! We will fix the motor ourselves!
On one of the few forums, I found a description of the problem and general methods for solving it. The text is simple: the impeller is firmly pressed onto the rotor and cannot be removed. The bearing we need is under it and the only way to replace the bearing is to drill out the lock washer.

Repairing vacuum cleaners, like other household appliances, is a common practice, since all appliances tend to break. The cause of breakdown is most often the wear of parts and the destruction of mechanisms. However, a breakdown of a vacuum cleaner does not always mean that you need to buy a new one, since it is quite possible to repair such equipment with your own hands.

The vacuum cleaner is rightfully considered the most popular piece of household appliances. Most housewives today can no longer imagine their life without a vacuum cleaner, since it significantly saves time and helps to keep the house clean and tidy.

See also - How Do I Pick a Good Vacuum Cleaner at an Affordable Price?

In most cases, the motor is the cause of the vacuum cleaner's failure. Such a breakdown occurs with almost all brands and models of the device, regardless of the manufacturer. By the characteristic signs and features of the device, you can diagnose a problem and try to repair the vacuum cleaner with your own hands.

• The first sign of a malfunctioning engine is a hum and the appearance of a dusty cloud during the operation of the device.
• Insufficient suction power or its complete absence indicates that the hose is out of order. Another sign that the tightness of the hose is broken is the quiet operation of the device. In addition to breakdown in the corrugation, the receiving brush can be damaged.
• Slow suction speed and a drop in operating speed can be the result of bearing failure. Proof of failure of these particular components is the periodic restoration of normal operation.
• Excessive hum during proper operation indicates that the engine is out of order. In most cases, malfunctions in the motor directly affect the suction power of the air.