Zmz 514 DIY repair

Details: ZMZ 514 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The diesel engine ZMZ 514 is produced at the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant, and is the only diesel engine representative of the entire line of engines of this type. Initially, the power unit was intended for trucks produced by the GAZ group of companies, but the bulk of the engines are bought by UAZ for installation on their cars.

Unlike gasoline counterparts, the diesel has received improved technical characteristics, which has become popular with the people. Thus, the power unit of the Zavolzhsky plant received one of the best fuel systems produced by BOSCH. A poly V-belt with an auto-tensioner was also installed to drive the injection pump, pump and generator into operation. An upgraded Common Rail fuel supply system was installed on the engine.

Consider a ZMZ 514 diesel and its technical characteristics:

The main part is installed on vehicles manufactured by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, namely: UAZ Patriot (Diesel), Hunter, Pickup and Cargo.

The maintenance of the 514th internal combustion engine is carried out in a typical way, as for all domestic diesel vehicles. The service interval is 12,000 km, but most experts and motorists agree that in order to preserve and increase the resource, it is necessary to reduce this figure to 10,000 km.

During maintenance, consumables and oil are changed. The first point includes filters for coarse and fine oil purification, as well as fuel filters. Depending on the operating conditions, it is also recommended to check the air filter, which can be clogged after 15-20 km.

Video (click to play).

When carrying out maintenance, especially if it is done by hand, it is worth paying special attention to the condition of the injectors, glow plugs, as well as the condition of the high pressure fuel pump.

Untimely repair of the latter can lead to more serious damage to the plunger pair, which will entail additional investment.

Repairing a 514 series diesel engine is quite difficult at home. So, you can carry out minor repairs, but larger breakdowns are recommended to be repaired in a car service.

At home, you can repair the fuel pump, replace the glow plugs, change the valve cover gasket.

The main problem that motorists often face is the tripping of a diesel power unit. In this case, often the problem can be hidden in clogged nozzles or a malfunction of the high pressure fuel pump. Both parts require special equipment for repair, and therefore it is worth contacting a car service to fix the malfunction.

Cleaning and diagnostics of injectors is carried out on a special stand, which will allow you to clearly identify the faulty element. As for the injection pump, it also requires special knowledge and skills that not every motorist possesses.

Often, the elements of the cooling system fail, which are easy enough to change at home. These include the thermostat and water pump. So, due to low-quality spare parts, the thermostat can often wedge, which leads to overheating of the engine or constant operation of the electric fan. As for the water pump, it breaks down - when the formation is formed on bearings.

The second option is the formation of a leak from under the shaft, which is easy to determine on your own. Changing the element is quite simple, you need to dismantle the drive belt and unscrew a few fastening bolts.

The diesel engine ZMZ 514 has gained widespread popularity on vehicles produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant. The simplicity of the design, which is typical for all motors produced by the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant, makes it quite simple and easy to repair the motor yourself. The power unit is serviced every 12,000 km.

The main task of this publication is to provide the system "developer-manufacturer-user of all forms" with technical information, which allows everyone interested to get comprehensive answers to all questions related to ensuring the performance of the ZMZ-514.10 diesel engine and its modifications at different stages of operation.
At present, intensive design and technological work is underway to develop modifications of diesel engines of JSC Zavolzhsky Motor Plant, to raise the requirements of environmental standards. Since January 1, 2008, the plant has been producing engines of only ecological class 3 *.
For updated information, we recommend that you visit the website.
Official edition.
Corresponds to the design and technological documentation as of August 12, 2008.
For the latest information, please contact the dealers of JSC "ZMZ".

The book briefly introduces the design features of the ZMZ-51432 diesel engine installed on UAZ vehicles of environmental class 4 (Euro 4). The book contains the main technical data and characteristics of the engine and its units, recommendations for their maintenance and repair are given.
Devices used in repairing and checking the performance of individual units are described. Possible engine malfunctions, their causes and remedies are indicated.
Due to the constant improvement of the design of UAZ vehicles and ZMZ diesel engines, individual parts and assemblies of your engine may differ from those given in this book.
The book is intended for specialists of service stations, auto repair and motor transport enterprises, and can also be useful to owners of UAZ vehicles, students and people studying the design of diesel engines.
The book on the arrangement, operation, maintenance and repair of diesel engines of the ZMZ-51432 model for UAZ vehicles of ecological class 4 has been prepared for publication by the Office of the Chief Designer of the Technical Department of ZMZ OJSC.

Installation and repair of the ZMZ-514 diesel engine, repair of the ZMZ-514 timing chain, replacement of the intermediate shaft bushing in ZMZ-514 in UAZ Hunter 31519

And once again we got a surprise from the ZMZ-514 diesel engine. Once again he showed us that the best is the enemy of the good.
It all started with chain tensioners. We read on the internet that mechanical chain tensioners are better than hydraulic chain tensioners. Like with them, there will be more oil pressure (there is a problem with pressure on this miracle of Russian diesel engineering) and everything will be all right with the chain tension. We changed the standard hydromechanical tensioners for purely mechanical ones from the “Russian Bogatyr”. And… we got a surprise - a chain jump. They began to understand and here it is the reason. The top tensioner made a long life:

Hana mechanical tensioner

But the surprises did not end there. On closer examination of the timing mechanism, a bump of the scrubber sprockets was found. After another disassembly of the front of the engine, it turned out that the sprocket bolts had again been cut off.
And again, these are not all surprises. The shaft dangled decently. After removal, it turned out that the front bushing of the scrubber was "over":

In general, we arrived. Then we ourselves could not do anything. Special equipment required. We found a company nearby that is professionally engaged in boring crankshafts and other shafts. We are familiar with the problem of prompts in our engines firsthand. They said: bring the block - we'll do it.
Block! The same engine must be removed and disassembled. And we decided to try it ourselves.
We bought a garage crane for 2 tons and started. Here they attached a crane to the UAZ:

It turned out that it was not that difficult to uncouple the engine. The gearbox does not need to be removed. As expected, the boom lift was enough, even the stock remained:

Lowered the diesel engine onto the pallet:

Then they moved the boom to a shorter distance, hung it back on the crane and rolled it right on the crane into the gazebo. These photos simply do not exist. They rested and rolled the entire structure. Then, in the gazebo, the diesel engine was washed of dirt, disassembled and immersed in the cylinder block in the second UAZ - Patrick. And the tap packaging came in handy :).
In this photo, you can already see the disassembled stand for assembling the engine:

The assembly stand is a simple device that will help us put the diesel back together.
In the meantime, this block will go to the specialists for repressing the bushings and adjusting the blades.

And we are rewarded with invaluable experience in disassembling the engine

In short, it gouged the front intermediate shaft bushing. Completely gouged:

Slotted front flush hub.

For repairs, a kit was purchased in the form of a new blast shaft and a set of blast shaft bushings. Everything cost about 2'000 rubles in the Planet of Zhelezyaka. Then the diesel was removed from the car using a garage crane (more details in the 13th part of the link above), disassembled to a “clean block of cylinders” and the block was taken to the Mechanics company, which is engaged in boring and adjusting the shafts. For 1'140 rubles, they repressed the bushings, unrolled and sanded the rim shaft to fit. This is what the new bushing looks like:

New front flange hub.

The prom shaft sits tightly without backlash.

Then it was the turn to show themselves to the engine assembly stand.
We bought a stand last weekend. And, in general, they did not regret it. The stand cost us 2'250 rubles, but the convenience of working with it covers all these costs. We don't have a garage, so we do everything either right on the street or in a gazebo.
Here is a cylinder block with a crankshaft already installed on the stand:

And then, with a “slight movement of the hand,” we turn the block over and insert the pistons with connecting rods:

In the background, an engine extraction crane is visible. When assembled, it takes up almost no space.

Sometimes, during heated discussions between the pilot and the navigator, during the process of assembling a diesel engine, the laptop turned into a tablet and approached the assembly object 🙂:

Generally? the assembly process with such preparation turned out to be not very complicated and pleasant.

Yes! Important. The tools must have a torque wrench. We did not have. I had to buy. The price of the issue is 1'150 rubles. At the same time, we decided to update some of the timing parts. We put new sprockets on the ramshaft, chains and hydraulic tensioners. During the day, taking into account the trip to the forest for raspberries, they assembled the engine and set the alignment of the crankshaft and camshaft marks. Here on this Saturday and stopped:

In the manual for assembling ZMZ-514, we found a new term for us - “to pick up”. Pick up the connecting rods, pick up the head, etc. So we decided, before putting the great diesel ZMZ-514 on Zyobrik, to “pick up” it and try to start it.

All that could be picked up at the stand (see the previous 14th entry in the BZ). But you can't put a flywheel on the stand, for example. This means that you cannot set the high-pressure fuel pump for sure.
In general, we began to sculpt a stand for winding up from scrap materials. We took as a basis a sheet of 18-mm plywood that served us well and trimmed various wooden products:

We sculpt a stand for starting the engine

Then they rolled the assembly stand under the crane:

We hung the engine on a crane and removed the load on the assembly stand:

They unhooked the assembly stand, rolled it out of the tap, set up a self-made stand for starting up and lowered the diesel on it:

They put it down on the booth for the start-up.

Then they screwed the engine mounts to the stand, assembled the engine to the minimum condition necessary for starting up, attached the power system from the old expansion tank and pumped the injection pump with injectors:

We connected the starter and the injection pump valve with hastily made wires to the battery and got ready for the moment of truth - the launch:

After installing new washers with a bushing and an oil pump (and of course a new oil filler cap.Finally, normal pressure appeared, the engine runs smoothly - it was assembled with observance of all points and accurate marking, and most importantly - with soul and for itself. As the title says - it will live!As it turned out, a diesel engine with and without a muffler rattles the same way, even if you hang a straight pipe.Hello to all! At first I wanted to post a photo where everything is indicated to the smallest detail and prices, but it did not work out. A cylinder block with cracks or holes in the cylinder walls, water jacket and crankcase, or with cracks in the upper plane and ribs supporting the main bearings must be replaced.Check the wear of the cylinders, the holes for the intermediate shaft journal journals, the holes for the oil pump drive, the deformation and alignment of the bearings for the main bearing shells.As a result of wear, the cylinders of the block acquire an irregular shape.The wear reaches the greatest value from the piston shifting at the top dead center in the area of the upper piston ring, at a distance of 20 - 30 mm from the upper plane of the block, the measurement must be carried out in the direction perpendicular to the crankshaft axis (in the connecting rod swinging plane)

The cylinder diameter of the new cylinder block is 87 +0.030 mmMaximum allowable - 87.1 mmRepair dimensions 87.5 +0.030 mm, 88 +0.030 mmTo repair the cylinder block, two overhaul sizes of the cylinder diameter and pistons of two overhaul sizes are provided for the diameter of the skirt with an increase in size by 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm.In case of more than acceptable wear of the cylinders or the presence of scoring, deep scratches, the cylinder block must be repaired.All cylinders in one block must be machined to the same overhaul size, except for cases when it is required to remove shallow scratches on the cylinder mirror (within the cylinder diameter increase by 0.05 mm), here only defective cylinders are allowed to be repaired.In cases where only a limited number of pistons are available, it is necessary to machine the cylinders based on the size group of the piston skirt diameter intended for operation in this cylinder, in accordance with Table 1. The letter denoting the size group of the piston skirt diameter is embossed on it bottom (Figure 1).Tab. 1 Correspondence of piston groups to cylinder bore sizesIn general, the background.
There was a hunter with a ZMZ 514 engine
Cracked head -> changed
Moved into a puddle -> jammed -> repaired
Shitty oil pressure -> I took off my knee -> I wasted it.
The pressure is still shitty -> He took off his head wasted pastels replaced the oil pump the pressure is still shitty.And an idea struck me. I don’t want 514 want nissan td27 qd32 doesn’t matter. But here is the problem of money, as usual, there is no nifiga and I want to go.And while I am saving up money for Nissan, I decided to stick a ZMZ 406 here. And here is the question itself. 406th Is it really bad in the UAZ? And another thing: a carburetor or an injector? As if there is a possibility of both.
since next to the work there is a disassembly of any Volga, respectively, the 406th injector will be bought. And does it make sense to convert it into a carburetor?in general, on the agenda:
1 whether to put 406th
2 if you put an injector or carburetor?
3 409th engine I will not find because there are only 406th engines_________________
Image - Zmz 514 DIY repair

Who wants - is looking for a way, who does not want - looking for a reason

ZMZ 514 is an economical and unpretentious diesel engine installed on UAZ Patriot cars and a number of other car models from the UAZ automaker.

This power unit was developed in 2002 and is being produced today with minor changes.

The modification of the ZMZ 514 engine has the following characteristics:

The engine is installed on UAZ Patriot, Cargo, Hunter, Pickup and Gazelle.

The development of the ZMZ 514 diesel engine began at the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant in 2002, which is still being produced.

But back in 1978, it was planned to manufacture a diesel engine with a capacity of 90 horsepower, intended for installation on UAZ vehicles.

The development of the engine took 15 years, during which several prototypes were manufactured, which did not provide the required reliability and did not differ in acceptable indicators of fuel efficiency.

In 1993, a decision was made to intensify the development of a diesel engine, and a promising gasoline engine of the 406 family was taken as a basis. As a result, two years later, the first prototype was produced, which received the 406D.10 index. This two-liter 105 horsepower engine became the basis for creating a power unit of the ZMZ 514 family.

The design of the new power unit was carried out by ZMZ specialists with the involvement of English minders from the Ricardo company. The tests carried out in England showed the imperfection of the cylinder block, as a result, it was decided to use not cast iron for the manufacture of the cylinder head, but more durable and lighter aluminum. The cylinder block ZMZ 514 is made of cast iron using injection molding technology.

In 2002, the first batch of ZMZ 514 diesel engines was assembled, which were installed on the Gazelle. However, already in the first year of operation, it became clear that there were difficulties with servicing the engines of this series, and two years later, production was stopped.

ZMZ engineers started working on the motor, which lasted for a year and a half. As a result of the revision made, the design of the connecting rods, the cylinder block and the timing chain was changed.

In November 2005, the production of the second generation of this power unit was resumed, which received the ZMZ 5143 index. This engine has proven itself from the best side. It was distinguished by its economy, ease of maintenance and reliability. The new engine is installed on UAZ Hunter cars.
In 2012, the production of a modernized version of the power unit was launched, which received the ZMZ 51432.10 CRS index. This version of the engine was equipped with a Common Rail fuel supply system and fully met the stringent environmental requirements of the Euro-4 standard. The ZMZ 51432 series engine was installed on UAZ Patriot, Pickup, Hunter and Cargo vehicles.

The use of a direct fuel injection system at ZMZ 51432 Common Rail has significantly improved fuel efficiency. In comparison with the previous generation of this engine, the ZMZ 514 consumed 10 percent less diesel fuel and at the same time provided better engine throttle response at low speeds.

At the same time, it must be said that the use of this electronic direct fuel injection system has led to the complication of the design of the power unit ZMZ 514, and, consequently, the reliability has decreased.

First-hand information: alas:

Almost a year ago I purchased UAZ 31608 with clone engine model ZMZ 514.10: I was happy for exactly a month.

After that (starting with 15 000 km. ) rushed: mass replacement of the main clutch cylinders when at weekly intervals replaced under warranty 6 (.) Cylinders (the management of the warranty center, even then, solemnly handing me the drawn up act of malfunctions, persuaded (.) me to hand over the car, promising to help). This nightmare ended only after they were able to establish that the cylinder was fastened at the factory with a bias. Followed by broken alternator belt (This is not as harmless as it might seem. Unfortunately, it is on this "rag" that the fan drives, the power steering, and: the vacuum brake booster pump of a two-ton machine mounted directly on the generator are hanging, and when replacing the belt, it is necessary to remove the injection pump drive belt with subsequent adjustment.), tensioner pulley failure of the belt itself (by the way, ALMOST identical to the ZMZ-406 tensioner (in the 514th the bolt is shorter and the roller is narrower)).

The apotheosis became burnout (on the 20th thousand) of the fourth cylinder with all the minced meat.

ATTENTION. Keep in mind that even in the case of a warranty replacement of the engine (and this is exactly what is done, since the damage is very serious), getting the engine will be extremely problematic.I have been "changed" under the guarantee for 3 months already. The PLANT refuses to allocate the motor referring to the LACK of SPARE PARTS.

If you think that this is an isolated and unlikely case, then you are deeply mistaken. The reason for the failure of the engine (according to the assumption of the factory workers, as they explained to me at the warranty service) was the failure of the TURBINE, which successfully drove the oil into the cylinders, causing the formation of carbon deposits and, as a result, burnout of the piston, valves and other beech troubles. The interval between the failure of the turbine and the death of the motor is 50 - 100 km. (less in my case). Moreover, the loss of power (especially when driving on the highway) is imperceptible.

What will result in the engine repair if you did not “have time” during the warranty period, you can figure it out for yourself (the repair manual for this miracle of technology is posted with a link in the conference).

ZMZ REFUSES to make a warranty replacement of the ZMZ 514 engine since it is (according to them) an experimental industrial unit that is not covered by the warranty and in general you can say exclusive. In their opinion, I should be happy that they will change the cylinder block and the piston (without replacing the block head (. With burnt valves.)

This information was provided to me by the leading engineer of the guarantee department of ZMZ, Mr. Saltykov I.V.

I explained to him that when I tried to hand me the engine in this form, I immediately draw up a paper on refusal of acceptance and file a lawsuit.

But, on common sense, I decided not to pull the cat by the tail, but to sue the UAZ right now demanding a refund for the car (taking into account the price change), payment of the cost of compensation for moral damage.

r.s. I have already sent a fax to UAZ.

In this regard, I will go to the consumer protection society, or (if I figure out how to find them) I will ask for help, in the process of communicating with the factories, to the legal department of the magazine "Behind the wheel".

A big request to the staff of the magazine "Behind the wheel".

All the present and (God forbid) future owners of this engine, who are still facing these ordeals, will say a big “Thank you” to you.

This manual contains the basic technical data of the ZMZ-5143.10 diesel engine and its systems, describes the device, features of operation, ways to eliminate possible malfunctions, maintenance and repair.

The manual is intended for employees of enterprises engaged in the operation and repair of ZMZ engines, trade organizations and individual owners.

The engines are manufactured by the plant in a complete set with equipment (fuel equipment, electrical equipment and clutch) installed and fixed on the engine, with the exception of a fine fuel filter, which is fixed on the engine in the transport position.

The engine is equipped with transport support brackets, which are replaced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant. The air filter, water and oil coolers are not included in the engine, therefore, the Manual describes only those components and assemblies that are included in this complete set.

Engines ZMZ-5143.10 are intended for installation on UAZ vehicles with a wheel arrangement of 4x4 and a gross weight of up to 3500 kg., And operation at ambient temperatures from minus 45 degrees Celsius to plus 40 degrees Celsius, relative air humidity up to 75% at a temperature of plus 15 degrees Celsius, dust content up to 1 g / m3, as well as in areas located at an altitude of 4000 meters above sea level.

The cylinder block is made of special cast iron as a monoblock with a crankcase part lowered below the crankshaft axis. There are coolant passages between the cylinders. In the lower part of the block, there are five main bearing supports. The bearing caps are machined with the cylinder block and are therefore not interchangeable. In the crankcase part of the cylinder block, nozzles are installed to cool the pistons with oil.

The cylinder head is cast from an aluminum alloy.In the upper part of the cylinder head there is a gas distribution mechanism: camshafts, valve drive levers, hydraulic supports, intake and exhaust valves. The cylinder head has two intake ports and two exhaust ports, flanges for connecting the intake pipe, exhaust manifold, thermostat, covers, seats for injectors and glow plugs, built-in elements of cooling and lubrication systems.

Due to the fact that the design of the engine is constantly being improved, individual units and parts may slightly differ from those described in this manual.

Work on the creation of the ZMZ 514 diesel engine was started back in 1978, but the first model was released only in 1999. Today this engine is popular among UAZ 4x4 vehicles with a mechanical injection pump, as well as Common Rail.

The company "Diesel-auto" carries out not only repairs of ZMZ 514, diesel, it is also possible to carry out chip tuning and other work to improve its functionality.

Many car owners mistakenly believe that they can repair the ZMZ 514 (diesel) on their own. However, in order to effectively restore the ZMZ 514 diesel engine, the repair of which should be trusted only by a certified car service, special equipment and the necessary skills are required. The auto repairman will undertake repairs on the day of the call, thanks to which the restoration of the functionality of the ZMZ 514 will occur quickly.

Additional bonus will become a warranty service in "Diesel auto».

Many motorists, after unsuccessful attempts to repair the ZMZ 514 engine, independently bring a diesel engine disassembled in parts and ask to repair it. This situation is quite commonplace, but costly for the customer's wallet, because would-be craftsmen only aggravate the situation and increase the volume of work performed.

At present, it is installed on such cars as UAZ Hunter, diesel ZMZ 514. Engine repair by the manufacturer was announced after a mileage of 250 thousand kilometers. Be that as it may, the restoration of an engine of such a modification requires certain skills and knowledge from the master.

Trust the professionals with your UAZ Hunter, diesel ZMZ 514. We promise to repair the engine efficiently and on time!

Good people how to set the injection moment on the high-pressure fuel pump if the star on the high-pressure fuel pump cranked relative to the pulley or shaft of the high-pressure fuel pump I do not know how to write correctly.

He started the car at random, but the dog does not pull. already 10 times the TDC marks were exposed, and so on. One hell does not pull. Dvigun was bought and from the moment of installation such a situation .. I twist and twirl back and forth and at least hell. There is no that power. The turbo is running. already at 2000 rpm it starts to work. What to do I have no strength already sinning on the high-pressure fuel pump. The owner says that all the rules are in good order. I'm ready to give money for a video manual where it will be clear what we are doing, how we set up the feed. how many have already read it does not work. Thoughts aloud to buy a new one, and if it doesn't help, then a turbine as well. Everything that could have already been done. (

Added by (11 Sep 2012, 09:01)
———————————————
Well, I'll start from the beginning. The engine was installed instead of gasoline. Boo. During installation and launch, all possible causes were excluded. dirt new gaskets howling sealing done.
Regulated labels. TDC starts but does not pull. We checked the turbine. connected the monometer starts to work at about 2000 rpm. We have already disassembled the engine and checked the internal marks. Everything matches. twisted ..

In general, we drive, we drive, but there’s no use ..
The power is not the same.
Someone wrote to me this when the big O-rings are on the injectors .. I don’t know if this can affect the power.

But he has this you go and then about a miracle there is power pulls you go you rejoice you will drive a couple of kilometers and then all the joy is over. happens once a month.

in rainy weather it pulls better too, but not ice ..

how to set this moment ideally .. We do not have diesel masters .. they have all stands for heavy trucks .. and, as it were, there are no adapters .. The ideal consumption is 10 liters per 100 approximately .. the engine runs smoothly ..

Maybe someone has come across this hemorrhoid, unsubscribe .. There is no longer any strength to decide alone .. I'm afraid to buy a high-pressure fuel pump and in vain .. maybe there is a way to check the high-pressure fuel pump well, let's say filters where to start what to turn ..

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 1 026
Registration: 20.3.2009
Insert nickname
Quote
From: StaroPopovskie we
User no .: 11 440
Thanks said: 81
Midrange team: CHUMAZiki
Your car: HUNTER
Real name: Sergey

They asked for help with the repair of ZMZ-514 Euro3.g.v. 2011. Mileage 44.000 km.
Symptoms, it smokes like a diesel locomotive, there is no traction, oil is a stream, if the diesel fuel runs out, then it is not possible to pump the injection pump into the pump, well, all kinds of jambs.
The car was bought new. After the last repair at the service station, she was pulled on a tie 😀 the diesel masters threw up their hands.

I had to dig around :: verycr :: after that there were a lot of spare parts left, and the car became Euro2, with excellent traction and excellent operation of the internal combustion engine.

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 2,436
Registration: 9.7.2009
Insert nickname
Quote
From: Popova 36
User #: 12 367
Thanks said: 215
Your car: Dreamavod
Your moto: Suzuki RMX 250 sold, Honda bros 400 sold, looking for another
Real name: Mikhail

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 1 608
Registration: 1.7.2008
Insert nickname
Quote
From: Smolensk
User #: 10 152
Thanks said: 1084
Midrange Team: Sympathetic
Your car: VW-Passat DAD
Real name: Alexander

Is that the stock of spare parts left, right? Great, hand over for scrap, the foreman should just have enough for work
And now some kind of fuel needs to be refueled, or does it take energy from space?

Inject already, did you yourself, and most importantly WHAT, with what methods did you overcome?
PS: where did you get the spare parts, I suppose in the auto business, are they UAZ dealers?

Post has been edited 67gru – 19.3.2014, 7:37

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 1,773
Registration: 20.12.2009
Insert nickname
Quote
From: Avtozavodskaya
User no .: 13 545
Thanks said: 681
Real name: eugene

Inject already, did you yourself, and most importantly WHAT, with what methods did you overcome?
PS: where did you get the spare parts, I suppose in the auto business, are they UAZ dealers?

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 1 608
Registration: 1.7.2008
Insert nickname
Quote
From: Smolensk
User #: 10 152
Thanks said: 1084
Midrange Team: Sympathetic
Your car: VW-Passat DAD
Real name: Alexander

Group: Advanced Users
Posts: 1 026
Registration: 20.3.2009
Insert nickname
Quote
From: StaroPopovskie we
User no .: 11 440
Thanks said: 81
Midrange team: CHUMAZiki
Your car: HUNTER
Real name: Sergey

Inject already, did you yourself, and most importantly WHAT, with what methods did you overcome?
PS: where did you get the spare parts, I suppose in the auto business, are they UAZ dealers?

We did all the work ourselves in the garage, they removed what was not needed, but put the necessary one. We looked for spare parts wherever possible
The dealer doesn't have them.

ENGINE OPERATING RECOMMENDATIONS

7.2 Starting and stopping the engine
Fuel and oil must be suitable for the season of use.
To facilitate starting the engine in winter, it is allowed to dilute the summer
its fuel (L-0.2-40) kerosene in an amount of not more than 20% of the fuel volume.
Perform daily engine maintenance before starting the engine.
(EO): check the oil level, coolant level, the tightness of the piping systems.
melting, lubrication, cooling, crankcase ventilation.
Attention! Do not press the accelerator pedal while starting the engine.
mother!
After starting a cold engine, let it run for a minute.
minimum idle speed for 3 ... 5 minutes, to drive the turbo-
pressor in working condition.
After starting to move on an unheated engine, do not operate it.
bed at high speed and load until the cooling temperature is reached.
liquids plus 60 ° C. This will lead to increased wear of engine parts, increasing
fuel consumption and may cause the engine to run out of
building.