Zu 3000 DIY repair

Good day, dear members of the forum!

I am asking you if anyone has experience in repairing a charger of this model!

Car charger ZU-3000 ASTRO.

In general, a trivial situation occurred when the battery was charged. At first I thought that the protective diode FR607 would fail. But he turned out to be strangely serviceable. In the photo, it is indicated by a red arrow.

I found a diagram of this device in only one place.

Upon visual inspection of the board tracks, I found that one of them burned out.

Further, under the fan (cooler), I found a plate made of light brown metal. I cannot understand whether a fuse, or something like a current shunt. Accordingly, it has traces of a cliff.

I accordingly shortened this plate, cleaned it, irradiated it and soldered it back. Accordingly, the charger turned on.

When measuring the output voltage with a multimeter in different modes: "Manual" and "Automatic" according to the backlight of the scale from the LEDs, the voltage corresponds to reality.

When measuring the same charge current in different modes, respectively "4A" and "6A" zero current value.

I tried to charge the battery, no effect!
Section: Repair

Once I got into my hands a charger "ASTRO" ZU-3000. Charging did not turn on - there were no signs at all life work.

I found the malfunction pretty quickly, but I was interested in the circuitry of this miracle, and I decided to delve into the device more thoroughly.

As a result, it turned out to recreate the schematic diagram of the ASTRO ZU-3000 charger. The diagram does not indicate the denominations of some elements (marked as N / A). These are mainly SMD capacitors. Further diagram (click to enlarge).

Do not be surprised that the diagram lacks a detailed drawing of the control part. As it turned out, it is made on the basis of the Attiny26-16SU microcontroller - this is, one might say, a “mosk” of the device. Also on the control board there is an integral stabilizer 78L05B in an “interesting” 8-pin planar package, which powers the microcontroller and its entire strapping with a stabilized voltage of 5V.

In addition, there is a trimming resistor on the board, the purpose of which I could not understand, but rather it is needed to adjust the output voltage. So I do not advise you to twist it without special need

.

The power part of the charger is assembled on a TOP225YN PWM controller microcircuit. This microcircuit has only 3 pins. S - this is the source, D - stock. The names are similar to the designations of the field-effect transistor, which is not surprising, because the power part of the microcircuit is implemented on a MOSFET transistor. Conclusion C Is the control pin (control).

If you look at a typical circuit for switching on microcircuits TOP221-227 (series TOPSwitch-Ⅱ) from the proprietary datasheet, it becomes clear that it differs little from the circuit of the power unit for charging the ASTRO ZU-3000.

Let's go over the most interesting elements of the circuit.

An NTC resistor with marking is installed in the primary circuit of 220V 13S100L (10 Ohm, 4A). This is a thermistor (thermistor) that reduces its resistance when heated. Its purpose is to reduce the inrush current when the device is turned on.

As soon as the SA1 toggle switch closes the circuit, the electrolytic capacitors C3 and C4 begin to charge quickly. This can cause a breakdown of the elements of the diode bridge VD1-VD4 (S1M). At the moment of switching on, the NTC resistor is “cold” - it has not yet been warmed up by the current surge, but after a few seconds it heats up from the passing current and its resistance decreases. In this case, capacitors C3, C4 are already charged, and the circuit is operating in normal mode.

The diagram also shows the diode VD5 - 1.5KE200A... In fact, this is a difficult diode, but a suppressor (aka a protective diode). It protects the MOSFET inside the chip TOP225YN from dangerous voltage surges that can "knock out" the field worker.

As protection against polarity reversal - incorrect connection of the clamps to the battery terminals - a VD10 diode (FR607) and fuse FU2. If you confuse the polarity of the connection, then the current from the battery will go through the VD10 diode, which in this case will be turned on in the forward direction. Due to the inrush current, the fuse FU2 should blow and the circuit will be broken. In this case, if after that you reconnect the battery, then the HL1 LED will light up, which indicates that the FU2 fuse has blown.

In some cases, when the polarity is reversed, the FR607 diode "breaks through", since it itself is designed for a direct current of 6A (I_AV), and as a result of the polarity reversal, a current of 10A can flow through it.

An optocoupler is used in the control circuit 4N35... It is included in the feedback loop of the switching power supply, which controls the operation of the circuit. To stabilize the output voltage, a VD11 Zener diode is used (BZX15) the output voltage is stabilized. But since this is a charger, and not a power supply, the control circuit on the microcontroller, which was mentioned above, is also introduced into the circuit. The control circuit is connected to the VD11 Zener diode. Thus, the control circuit can change the operating mode of the TOP225YN microcircuit through the DA2 optocoupler. An SMD transistor can also be found on the control circuit PCB. He is just connected to the VD11 zener diode.

In order for the microcontroller to “measure” the current in the output circuit, the current sensor R8 is used. It is a high-resistance alloy plate.

The resistance of this plate is about 0.03-0.1 ohms, and the power is about 2W. It is not uncommon for this sensor plate to burn out with poor cooling, and the charger stops working.

For forced cooling of the active elements of the circuit, a FAN fan (12V 0.14A) is used. Since the output voltage of the charger can reach 16V, a circuit of resistors R4, R5 is connected in series with the fan. They extinguish excess stress.

I will pay special attention to the VD9 dual Schottky diode (MBR20100CT). It was because of him that the charging got into repair. According to the owner, an overestimated load was accidentally connected to the charger output. Apparently because of this, a current exceeding the nominal went through the circuit. Therefore, the VD9 diode was simply "knocked out". When checking the diode, it turned out that one of the diodes in the assembly was broken.

What can replace the MBR20100CT dual diode? I replaced it with an original one (MBR20200CT is also suitable), but if you don't have the right diode at hand, you can try replacing it with F12C10, F12C15 or F12C20. Such and similar dual diodes are found in the output rectifiers of computer power supplies.

True, it is worth considering that the maximum forward current (I_F) of such a diode is 12 amperes (6A per diode), and the MBR20100CT is rated for 20A (10A per diode). But in theory, the maximum charging current for ASTRO ZU-3000 is 6A, so you can try to replace it with F12C20. It is also worth noting that the reverse voltage for the MBR20100CT diode is 100V.

For half-wave rectifiers, it is better to choose a diode with a reverse voltage 3 times greater than the output voltage. Thus, if the charger produces a maximum output of 16V, then the diode must be selected with a reverse voltage of 48V or more. As you can see, a diode is installed in the circuit with a significant margin for reverse voltage (V_RRM).

As you know, Schottky diodes are very sensitive to excess reverse voltage, therefore it is worth choosing a replacement for a faulty diode carefully and it is better that the new diode has a “margin” in terms of diode parameters such as reverse voltage (V_RRM) and direct current (I_F).

The rectifier diode MBR20100CT and the TOP225YN PWM controller are riveted to the radiator. This can make it difficult to replace these items during repairs. Therefore, you can drill the head of the rivet with a metal drill of a suitable diameter. I did this with a screwdriver in drill mode. When installing new parts, it is better to lubricate the places of thermal contact with heat-conducting paste KTP-8, and use bolts instead of rivets.

Download the operating manual “Impulse charger ASTRO ZU-3000, 3001, 3002, 3003, 3004, 3005”.

"Operation manual Contents Introduction Specifications External connections and controls Charger use Recommendations for. "

charger ZU-3000

Manual

External connections and controls

Charger application

Recommendations for charging lead-acid batteries

Safety notes

Pulse automatic charger "ZU-3000" (hereinafter ZU-3000), completed

according to modern technology based on the TOPSwitch integrated PWM stabilizer manufactured by Power Integrations Inc.

ZU-3000 is designed for charging and restoring automotive lead-acid storage batteries with a capacity of 40-75A / h with automatic voltage and current stabilization at different stages of the charging process and automatic transition to recharge mode and storage of battery energy with low current when it reaches a certain voltage.

1. Supply voltage range: 90-260V

2. Output stabilized voltage at the initial stage of charging: 16V

3. Limiting the charging current: 4A and 6A with optical feedback.

4. Choice of manual or automatic operating mode of the charger.

5. Protection against short circuit at the output and incorrect connection (polarity reversal) of the battery terminals with built-in automatic restart and cycle-by-cycle current limiting circuits.

6. Forced cooling of circuit elements and built-in thermal protection system.

8. LED indication of operating modes.

External connections and controls

Front Panel:

1. Operation mode switch MANUAL / AUTOMATIC.

2. Charge current limiting switch.

3. LED voltage indicator.

4. Charging current limiting indicator light green.

5. The indicator light for limiting the charging voltage is red.

9. Fuse 10A (a spare is attached in case of failure of the installed one).

On the rear panel of the device there is a wire for connecting to a 220V alternating current and a power switch.

Charger application

1. Connect the clamps to the battery terminals. Attention.

Red clamp (+) - to the positive terminal;

Black clip (-) - to negative terminal.

2. Depending on the battery capacity, select the value of the charging current limitation (switch 2):

1A - middle position (if available, it depends on the configuration);

3. Select the battery charging mode "Manual" or "Automatic" (switch 1).

4. Switch on the power supply to the charger (on the rear panel).

5. After the end of the battery charging, turn off the power to the ZU-3000.

6. Disconnect the clamps from the battery terminals.

The internal electrical resistance of the discharged battery is more than 2.88 Ohm. Therefore, the output current of the device at the initial stage of charging is less than 4 A. At this time, the voltage stabilization channel is operating and the voltage at the terminals is maintained at 16 V. The glow of the red LED indicator (5) indicates that the charger is operating in this mode. As the battery is charged, the voltage at the terminals increases, the internal resistance decreases. Having reached a value of less than 2.88 Ohm, the charge current will increase and reach 4 or 6 A (depending on the selected mode).

The red LED indicator (5) goes out, the green one (4) lights up and the battery is charged to the nominal voltage and density of the electrolyte. Further, the battery is charged with constant current.

Automatic battery charging

When the voltage at the battery terminals reaches 14V, the device automatically sets the charging current to 1-2A. In this mode, the battery is charged until the nominal voltage and density of the electrolyte is reached. The charging time depends on the degree of discharging of the battery.

The "automatic" charging mode is longer, but the most favorable, which significantly increases the battery life.

Recommendations for charging lead-acid batteries

Electrolyte A solution of sulfuric acid in distilled water is used as an electrolyte for car batteries. For different climatic and temperature conditions in which the battery is to be in operation, electrolyte of different density is used. To determine the degree of charge at any time, the standard density of the electrolyte is taken as 1.27 g / cm3, i.e. the density acquired after a full first charge.

Commissioning dry-charged (new) storage batteries Commissioning the battery should begin with filling the batteries, which is recommended as follows.

The electrolyte prepared according to the requirements can be poured into batteries provided that its temperature is not higher than 25oС in cold and temperate climatic zones and not higher than 30oС in hot and humid zones. It is not recommended to fill batteries with electrolyte with a temperature below 15oС.

The filling should be carried out until the electrolyte mirror touches the lower edge of the neck or 10.15 mm above the safety shield.

The electrolyte level above the guard can be measured with a glass tube.

As a rule, no earlier than 20 minutes and no later than two hours after pouring, it is necessary to measure the density of the electrolyte. If the density of the electrolyte in the battery is lower than the density of the filled one by more than 0.03 g / cm3, such a battery should be charged before installing it on the car.

If the battery was stored for no more than one year and the process of preparing it for commissioning took place at a temperature of at least 15oС, it can be installed on a car without checking the electrolyte density after 20 minutes of impregnation. A battery put into service should be corrected after a few days.

Charging A battery that is more than 25% discharged in winter and more than 50% in summer must be removed from the vehicle and charged.

The battery is charged when a potential is applied to it that exceeds its voltage. The battery charge current is proportional to the difference between the applied voltage and the open circuit voltage.

The value of the charging current is selected approximately 0.1 of the rated capacity of the battery. Normal charging time for a good battery is 8-10 hours.

The battery is charged until abundant gas evolution (boiling) occurs in all the banks, and the voltage and density of the electrolyte will be constant for two hours in a row. This is a sign of the end of the charge. Then you should equalize the density of the electrolyte in the sections and continue charging for another 30 minutes for better mixing.

During battery charging, the electrolyte temperature should be checked periodically to ensure that it does not rise above 45oC in cold and temperate climates and above 50oC in hot and warm humid climates.

Safety notes As hydrogen is generated when charging acid batteries, charge the battery in a well-ventilated area without smoking or using open flames. The resulting explosive mixture is fire and explosive.

To avoid electric shock and damage to the charger, do not use it in rooms with high humidity, avoid drops, shocks, foreign objects, liquids. Do not disconnect and connect alligator clips during charging, as the evolved hydrogen, combining with oxygen in the air, forms an explosive mixture that can explode from a spark between the clip and the battery terminal.

In order to avoid the failure of the protective elements, each restart of the device should be carried out with an interval of at least 1 minute.

To ensure heat dissipation from the circuit elements during operation, the device should be located in places excluding overlapping ventilation openings.

• 

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider a situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur soldering all sorts of electronic gizmos and having some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate topic on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s. Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted.The more information you post about the breakdown, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also keep in mind that no one should answer instantly or during, say, a day, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stumped and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the entire process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Message hrak »21 Nov 2012, 14:13

If the malfunction of the recharger consists in the constant blowing of the mains fuse (as in photo number 2), then most likely the impulse switches, transistors that are screwed on the radiators are broken. Although, maybe the reason lies in the "zero" resistance of the mains rectifier diodes (photo # 4, SMD diodes, small black "rectangles" at the top of the board).

Just want to warn you that this topic is not a complete repair manual. There are times when an experienced radio engineer sits day and night looking for a fault. Nevertheless, I tried to list the main directions of diagnostics.
Regards, your hrak

Instructions for using the charger ZU-3000.

1. Connect the clamps to the battery terminals

Red clamp (+) - to the positive terminal;

Black clip (-) - to negative terminal.

2. Depending on the capacity of the battery, select the value of the limitation of the charging current

1A - middle position (if available, it depends on the configuration);

3. Select the battery charging mode "Manual" or "Automatic" (switch 1).

4. Switch on the power supply to the charger (on the rear panel).

5. After the end of the battery charging, turn off the power to the ZU-3000.

6. Disconnect the clamps from the battery terminals.

Charging the battery in manual mode

The internal electrical resistance of the discharged battery is more than 2.88 Ohm. Therefore, the output current of the device at the initial stage of charging is less than 4 A. At this time, the voltage stabilization channel works and the voltage at the terminals is maintained at 16 V. The glow of the red LED indicator (5) indicates that the charger is operating in this mode. As the battery is charged, the voltage at the terminals increases, the internal resistance decreases. Having reached a value of less than 2.88 Ohm, the charge current will increase and reach 4 or 6 A (depending on the selected mode).

The red LED indicator (5) goes out, the green one (4) lights up and the battery is charged to the nominal voltage and density of the electrolyte. Further, the battery is charged with constant current.

Automatic battery charging

When the voltage at the battery terminals reaches 14V, the device automatically sets the charging current to 1-2A. In this mode, the battery is charged until the nominal voltage and density of the electrolyte is reached. The charging time depends on the degree of discharging of the battery. The "automatic" charging mode is longer, but the most favorable, which significantly increases the battery life.

Simple and easy-to-use charger that does not require the installation of any operating modes. It is enough to connect it to the battery and wait for the indication of 100% charge.

The memory operation algorithm allows you to comply with all the necessary rules for charging your battery:

Connect the charger to the battery, not including the charger power.

Determine the state of charge of the battery, referring to the section “Determining the degree of

If you need to charge, turn on the charger power (toggle switch up).

During the charging process, the “battery charge” indicators sequentially

light up as the battery is charged. If the “state of charge” indicator blinks, it means there is no battery charging current. It is necessary to check the correct connection of the charger to the battery and the integrity of the fuse.

During charging, the charger maintains the charge current constant until the charge voltage reaches 14.5V, and then decreases the current as the battery is charged.

Upon completion of the battery charging process, the “100%” indicator lights up, turn off the charger power. Disconnect the charger clamps from the battery.

The maximum charge current in this charger model is 5 Amperes.

It is recommended to charge maintenance-free batteries in automatic mode.

Connect the charger to the battery, not including the charger power. Determine the state of charge of the battery, referring to the section "Determining the state of charge of the battery".

If you need to charge, turn on the charger power (toggle switch up) and set the desired mode. If the “state of charge” indicators are blinking, it means there is no battery charging current. It is necessary to check the correct connection of the charger to the battery and the integrity of the fuse.

Upon completion of the battery charging process, the “100%” indicator lights up, turn off the charger power. Disconnect the charger clamps from the battery.

By pressing the “Operating mode” button, set the “A” mode (indicator “A” is on).

The charger maintains the set charging current constant up to a charging voltage of 14.5V, and then begins to decrease the current as the battery is charged. The charge voltage in this mode is not more than 14.5V. We recommend using this mode if there is sufficient time to fully charge the battery (depending on the capacity and condition of the battery, 12 - 24 hours) and store it with recharging at low current.

Mode "A" is the most optimal mode of battery charging, allowing to increase its service life.

In the "P" mode, the charger maintains the set charge current constant until the charge voltage reaches 16.0V, then the voltage remains constant, and the charge current decreases. The "P" mode allows you to charge the battery in a shorter time than in the "Automatic" mode. Battery charge time is 4-12 hours (depending on the capacity and state of the battery).

The maximum charge current in this charger model is 5 Amperes.

It is recommended to charge maintenance-free batteries in automatic mode.

Connect the charger to the battery, not including the charger power. Determine the state of charge of the battery, referring to the section "Determining the state of charge of the battery". If you need to charge, turn on the charger power (toggle switch up) and set the desired mode.

When the device is turned on, the indicators of the selected operating mode, charge current and state of charge of the battery should light up. If “CHARGE” blinks on the digital indicator, it means there is no battery charging current.

It is necessary to check the correct connection of the charger to the battery and the integrity of the fuse. After a few seconds of operation of the charger, instead of the value of the state of charge, the value of the battery charge voltage will be displayed. Upon completion of the process of charging the battery - the glow on the digital indicator "CHARGE", turn off the charger power. Disconnect the charger clamps from the battery.

By pressing the “Operating mode” button, set the “A” mode (indicator “A” is on). The charger maintains the set charging current constant up to a charging voltage of 14.5V, and then begins to decrease the current as the battery is charged. The charge voltage in this mode is not more than 14.5V.

We recommend using this mode if there is sufficient time to fully charge the battery (depending on the capacity and condition of the battery, 12 - 24 hours) and store it with recharging at low current. Mode "A" is the most optimal mode of battery charging, allowing to increase its service life.

In the "P" mode, the charger maintains the set charge current constant until the charge voltage reaches 16.0V, then the voltage remains constant, and the charge current decreases.

The "P" mode allows you to charge the battery in a shorter time than in the "Automatic" mode. Battery charge time is 4-12 hours (depending on the capacity and state of the battery).

The charge current is selected using the “Charge current” button: 4 or 6 Amperes, depending on the battery capacity (the corresponding indicator is on). The charge current in Amperes should be no more than 1/10 of the battery capacity.

It is recommended to charge maintenance-free batteries in Mode-1.

Connect the charger to the battery, not including the charger power. Determine the state of charge of the battery, referring to the section "Determining the state of charge of the battery".

If you need to charge, turn on the charger power (toggle switch up) and set the desired mode. At the end of the battery charging process, turn off the charger power. Disconnect the charger clamps from the battery.

U battery mode (voltage measurement)

The value of the battery voltage is measured with the charger power off, by setting the handle to the “U battery” position. In this case, the indicator initially displays - U, and then the value of the measured voltage.

Charge current setting range 5.0-12.0A. The charge current in Amperes should be no more than 1/10 of the battery capacity. For example: for a battery with a capacity of 90 A / H, it is recommended to set the charging current to 9.0 A. Installation accuracy charging current +/- 0.5A. When setting the charge current using the knob, it

the value is displayed on a digital indicator. 2 seconds after setting the charging current, the charger switches to the charging voltage indication mode (the voltage depends on the selected mode). To check the value of the charge current, turn the knob slightly - the indicator will show its set value.

By turning the knob "Mode selection" in the mode zone "1" set the required battery charging current. The charger maintains the set charging current constant up to a charging voltage of 14.5V, and then begins to decrease the current as the battery is charged. The charge voltage value in volts is displayed on a digital indicator. The charge voltage in this mode is not more than 14.5V. It is recommended to use this mode if there is sufficient time to fully charge the battery (depending on the capacity and condition of the battery, the charging time is 10-20 hours) and its storage with recharging at low current.

Mode "1" is the most optimal mode of battery charging, allowing to increase its service life. -12-

Mode "2" By turning the "Mode selection" knob in the "2" mode zone, set the required battery charge current. The charger maintains the set charge current constant until the charge voltage reaches 16.0V (the maximum allowable voltage on the battery), then the voltage remains constant, and the charge current decreases. The value of the charge voltage in volts is displayed on the digital indicator.

Mode "2" allows you to charge the battery in a shorter time than in mode "1".

Battery charge time is 4-12 hours (depending on the capacity and state of the battery).

Recommendations for charging lead-acid batteries

As an electrolyte for car batteries, a solution of sulfuric acid in distilled water is used. For different climatic and temperature conditions in which the battery is to be in operation, electrolyte of different density is used. To determine the degree of charge at any time, the standard density of the electrolyte is taken as 1.27 g / cm3, i.e. the density acquired after a full first charge.

Commissioning of dry-charged (new) storage batteries.

Putting the battery into operation should begin with filling the batteries, which is recommended as follows:

The electrolyte prepared according to the requirements can be poured into batteries provided that its temperature is not higher than 25oС in cold and temperate climatic zones and not higher than 30oС in hot and humid zones. It is not recommended to fill batteries with electrolyte with a temperature below 15oС.

The filling should be carried out until the electrolyte mirror touches the lower edge of the neck or 10.15 mm above the safety shield. The electrolyte level above the guard can be measured with a glass tube.

As a rule, no earlier than 20 minutes and no later than two hours after pouring, it is necessary to measure the density of the electrolyte. If the density of the electrolyte in the battery is lower than the density of the filled one by more than 0.03 g / cm3, such a battery should be charged before installing it on the car.

If the battery was stored for no more than one year and the process of preparing it for commissioning took place at a temperature of at least 15oС, it can be installed on a car without checking the electrolyte density after 20 minutes of impregnation. A battery put into service must be corrected after a few days.

A battery that is more than 25% discharged in winter and more than 50% in summer should be removed from

cars and put on charge. The battery is charged when a potential is applied to it that exceeds its voltage. The battery charge current is proportional to the difference between the applied voltage and the open circuit voltage.

The value of the charging current is selected approximately 0.1 of the rated capacity of the battery

batteries. Normal charging time for a good battery is 8-10 hours. The battery is charged until abundant gas evolution (boiling) occurs in all the banks, and the voltage and density of the electrolyte will be constant for two hours in a row. This is a sign of the end of the charge. Then you should equalize the density of the electrolyte in the sections and continue charging for another 30 minutes for better mixing.

During battery charging, the electrolyte temperature should be checked periodically to ensure that it does not rise above 45oC in cold and temperate climates and above 50oC in hot and warm humid climates.

Safety notes

Since hydrogen is generated when charging acid batteries, charge the battery in a well-ventilated area without smoking or using open flames. The resulting explosive mixture is fire and explosive. To avoid electric shock and damage to the charger, do not use it in rooms with high humidity, avoid drops, shocks, foreign objects, liquids. Do not disconnect and connect alligator clips during charging, as the evolved hydrogen, combining with oxygen in the air, forms an explosive mixture that can explode from a spark between the clip and the battery terminal.

In order to avoid the failure of the protective elements, each restart of the device should be carried out with an interval of at least 1 minute.

To ensure heat dissipation from the circuit elements during operation, the device should be located in places excluding overlapping ventilation openings.

Replace the 10A fuse only when the device is disconnected from the battery and the AC mains.

Repair of ZU-3000 is allowed only by qualified personnel.

I bought this gizmo, they wrote the instructions there: a bunch of theory, it was written which switches to turn on and how to connect the terminals.
I can't actually understand how I can determine the end of the charging process by the light bulbs on the face and how to understand the readings of these bulbs in general.
Please unsubscribe in detail for those who charged using this particular device. About the density of the electrolyte and the description of the charging process in theory and about the processes taking place inside, I read a lot in the instructions, but it's not clear what to do))
I'm afraid of overcharging and explosion of the battery)) I'm sitting and guarding, but why guardians - I don't know .. The instructions seem to say nothing about the end of the charge and the behavior of the device with a full charge .. there, in general, about the device itself, only the procedure for connecting and disconnecting .. the rest is materiel ..

P.S> At the moment, it has crawled to the red light 14.5 above, below the red (U) is dimly lit, and the green (I) is bright.
It started a few hours ago from 13 at the top, at the bottom it seemed like the red (U) burned brightly at first, and the green (I) dimly.

P.P.S> The switches are in the "automatic" mode, "6A"

There are traffic jams, but I'm afraid of suffocating by the products of excretion)) That is, it is harmful to breathe hydrogen ..

And the device is automatic, and as I understand it, it now charges with a current of 1A ..

The question is how to understand when it will be fully charged. With this current. I want to understand by the light bulbs))

It seems that the battery, to which I treated shamelessly (always very undercharged, at first I had a dead generator, and then I was lying in the car for almost a month too. ))

So, given the degree of "killed" the battery and the strength of the charging current in the automatic mode (1A - sort of "therapeutic" charging), it seems to me that this business will last 15-20 hours ..

One thing is not clear - how the device will show the end of charging, how can I determine this end of charging at such a low current ..

So I'm looking for fellow "happiness" who bought this particular intricate device ..

Shipping caps? 8- () After the purchase, I did not take out anything, I have never unscrewed the plugs. And how can I determine if there are these plugs? And is it enough to unscrew the plug to control the process? ))

The temperature of the battery itself is still roomy to the touch, not at all warm ..

If it (battery) on the sides is intensely and strongly-often squeezed, it will hear the sound of air entering and leaving from somewhere (ff-ff) and small bursts of electrolyte that is agitated by the shaking. It seems lucidly described))

It will be more difficult for me to describe 🙂 it all depends on the manufacturer. some had them, some did not. there was such a clever plug inside the plug so that the electrolyte would not spill out during a coup. although it should be noted that the battery was with an envelope separator, and even skated for half a year by car without any problems. apparently there were still some slots through which the gases escaped into the separator, but when charging, she took it and boomed ..
Threat simply put, the cork should have a hole visible either to the outside (which is now almost a rarity) or from the side in the upper part.
But personally, I would have unscrewed the plugs anyway :))) the onnaya operation has stuck too painfully in the brain.

and judging by the description, it looks like the battery has gas exchange with the atmosphere ..

I don’t find any holes at all, but when pressed, the sound "ff-ff" is definitely there .. It seems like if there are plugs, then it should be said in a piece of paper to the battery.

By the way, around the battery, with a light sniff, there is a smell similar to the smell of ozone after a thunderstorm)) There is such a pleasant smell in general. But he is so weak. Is hydrogen supposed to smell like that? Ie this is it? ))